I need a starter for a 1942-6719, mine sounds like grinder, it is 6 volt positive ground. I can refurbish it locally.
The starter is the same for 1941-42 positive ground cars and the 46-48 negative ground cars. The change in polarity reverses the flow of electrons in both the armature and field coils, so the direction of rotation is not changed. This shold widen your field of search for a starter.
The 41 and possibly early 42 solenoids look different than the 46-48 style, but function the same, so that will not be an issue.
Bob Schuman
Gary,
Hi. Check with Harry S. He might have one. I passed on one he had, because I already have a spare.
Bobby
Gary,
Can the one you have be refurbished?
Jeff
Jeff,
I think he means that he can get it done locally, once he purchases it….
Bobby
I will refurbish the one I have after fitting another one into the car. The current one is making unfriendly noises and not working hard enough.
H Scott is sending me a starter and I will get it rebuilt locally. Thanks for the advice. Now to find quality points, condenser, and vacuum advance. My plan is to have a rebuilt spare starter, and distributor in the car at all times on long trips.
Gary,
I thought about trailering a complete spare engine with me. What do you think? ;D ;D ;D
Bobby
LOL Bobby, my list was starting to look like almost a complete engine. Bill Ingler who is such a Garu says in his years of traveling in pre war Cadillacs the most often parts required on the road are starter and fuel pump. I will have to get some miles on it and see how I feel about it by April 8 or 9th when we plan on leaving for Las Vegas GN.
Gary: The two most often needed parts are water pump and fuel pump, not starters. If I said starter, I should have said water pump, sorry for the error. In all the tours that I have been on I have only seen 2 problems with starters. Both were solenoids and in one case the car had a manual transmission so the car was pushed to start and the other car had an automatic. Fortunately someone else on the tour was carrying a spare solenoid.
Two additional small items you can carry in your glove box which at least for me have come in handy on a couple of tours. I carry 6 volt tail light bubs as well as a spare brake light switch. The brake light switches that are sold today are made in Mexico and have high failure rate. During your restoration I an sure you probably have check all your wheel bearings as well as your axle bearings but one bearing that is often over looked is the fan hub bearing. If it is the original bearing I would recommend that you change it. One other item I recommend you carry is a copy of the current 2016 International Directory. This club has great members and if you ever need help while on a tour or cross country on your own, that directory might show you someone close by to help and just a telephone call away. Almost forgot the Rain X. Vacuum wipers on our cars leave a lot to be desired. I always apply Rain X to the windshield before leaving on any tour. Bill
[quote author=Bill Ingler #7799 In all the tours that I have been on I have only seen 2 problems with starters. Both were solenoids and in one case the car had a manual transmission so the car was pushed to start and the other car had an automatic. Fortunately someone else on the tour was carrying a spare solenoid.
[/quote]
That's interesting what you write Bill about the automatic because it wasn't until I was trying to overhaul mine that I read in the Hydra-matic manual that it is possible to tow start these autos. The book states to tow up to15-20mph and select 'High' which will turn the engine over. One wouldn't have guessed that.
Hi Steve: I too came across that about being able to start a car with automatic by pushing/towing but can`t find it now in any of my books. I have never started a car that way nor have I ever talked with anyone who had started by pushing/towing an automatic. I think I know enough about an automatic to stay out of trouble but still have questions on how you start an automatic by pushing/towing. You said the book states to tow the car up to 15-20 and then select High. I assume the book means DR as there is no HIGH on my 47 shift quadrant. So then if that is correct, that means that you would start towing/pushing the car with the shift lever in Neutral. Yet the Owners Manual says to never attempt to coast with the control lever in neutral with the engine either on or off. The second question pertains to what gear is the car in when you put the shifting lever in HIGH/DR? Now based on up shift speeds in the below diagram, up speed to 4th occurs between 16-20. If I put the shifting lever in DR at those speeds has the transmission already made the shifts from 1ST to 4TH before I place the shifting lever to DR even though the engine is not running. Always like to know before hand what is going to happen before rather than after the fact. Bill
I'm fairly sure as with most automatics Bill they don't advise coasting in Neutral for the safety aspect rather than doing damage as one has no engine braking. That's in all the owners handbooks here even with stick shift. I would think to tow start is a different thing.
Yes, agreed, as the other gear is 'Low' I guess they mean 'Drive' when they refer to 'High'
Attached is the page from the Hydramatic Service book for 41.
Like you, never tried it and gave up on the auto anyway.
Back in the late 50s we hung around the local gas station and would help out or do chores as needed. They had a Jeep CJ with a large wooden front bumper that was covered with cut pieces of tire tread. We used that Jeep to jump start contrary cars some with hydramatic. It was kind of hairy pushing a car that fast and then when it was put into gear it was real strain for the 4 cyl Jeep to keep up the momentum if the car didn't start right away. I also think the early Fordomatic transmissions would start if pushed to a certain speed.
Harry
I'm pretty sure that towing above certain speeds will effect the Trans due to the front/rear pump pressures supplying the valve body. Might have something to do with the shuttle valve in the pressure regulator body. Front pump when the car is running, Rear pump taking over the pressure duties at forward speeds. Most recommend disconnecting the driveshaft if "hook and chain" towing, which you really don't see anymore anyway.
Out of the Hydra-Matic Service Manual: If it becomes necessary to start engine by pushing the car for a short distance due to low battery, move control lever to the N position. When a speed of approximately 25 MPH is attained, turn ignition switch on and move the control lever to either DR position.
Bobby