My drivetrain will be done soon and it won't be long before I put the car on the road. I need to transfer the title. In NC, an out of state title for a vintage car is a bit of a pain. They need to inspect the car and ensure the VIN is accurate to the title to prevent faking any high value classic.
My issue is that the previous owner swapped the engine with another 56 365. Original engine was bad. Therefore I lose THAT VIN location. To my knowledge, NC likes to see 2 locations of VIN.
I know of the one located on the passenger frame rail by the engine. Any other possibilities?
Rob the 1956 Cadillac Shop Manual identifies 3 locations where the "Model identification" (or VIN# for our purpose), can be found. Two of these areas you have already mentioned. The third is the so-called "lubrication plate" which is...(quote); "attached to the left front body pillar. On Coup styles this lubrication plate is located on the left door lock pillar", (end quote), as stated in the manual. Attached is a picture of what this plate looks like.
The ones I have seen are fastened by removable screws; noting both slot & philips fasteners as having been used. Some jurisdictions may not accept such as the presence of screws may indicate that the plate has been swapped-thus compromising the integrity of the vehicle. I am told that riveted plates are best, however, I am not sure if '56 models were fastened in that manner, (manual does show a close up of a lube plate with a pair of slot head screws, not rivets).
These plates were made from plastic and often are missing especially after a re-paint. Sometimes the number is faded and not readily visible at first glance, (see photo). Even if you have yours intact there may be issues with your licensing bureau, if it is fastened by screws, (even if OEM installed that way). I would attend the bureau with an original shop manual to further qualify your claim as to the location and manner in which these numbers were imprinted on the car when new. Pages 1-1 and 2-2 of the manual address these details. Been there done that.
Perhaps someone can clarify how the 1956 Cadillac lubrication plate was originally attached to the car? Screws or rivets? If screws were they slot or philips? Thus far I have only seen screws though admittedly it is something that I do not routinely look for. Clay/Lexi
On all 3 cars from the fifties I had/have, that lube plastic plate is attached with slotted screws. Riveting a plastic plate is probably not a good idea, the plastic may crack.
Lexi thank you very much. That lube plate is painted on mine so either I'll have to get creative, or the frame number will have to be good enough.
Rob you are welcome. In case you have serious problems with the licensing bureau you may wish to consider first photographing the plate in situ, as is, proof as to where it came from. If yours is screwed on, then remove it to controlled conditions inside. Then you can experiment with different solvents to gently remove the over spray, layer by layer, to possibly reveal the number below. Prior to this, test on back to ensure the plastic is not attacked by the solvent and is OK to use. You only want to remove the over spray. If the number had faded out with the numbers basically gone like in the picture I posted earlier, you may still reveal the "shadow" of where they were (again like in the photo). I would photograph results as you proceed as some information may get lost along the way.
If you know a well equipped photo geek, then taking UV and/or infrared shots will often penetrate the layers of paint and reveal the information hidden below. You could also ask the geek about other luminescent and florescent techniques that may reveal the hidden number. Also, I can't recall if these numbers were also stamped into the plastic. In that event try oblique lighting as well as the previously noted paint removal process. Sounds like you don't have a shop manual. If you do get screwed at the bureau let me know and I will scan those pages for you, which may help. Sounds like a crazy amount of work but beats having the bureau say no to your title change. Clay/Lexi
Yes, Roger that always made sense to me. Also agrees with what the manual shows. Thanks! Clay/Lexi
I'll try some solvents and report back! 8)
Great! Can't remember if these lube plates are opaque or if they have some translucency. If some light will penetrate then using a strong light source you may be able to back light it and see the numbers. Clay/Lexi
Hmm. Not letting me upload my photo.
Anyhow, I'm going to say it's a success! Paint thinner, q-tips and my wife's finger nails scratched it off like a lotto ticket. You can just barely make out the VIN but it matches my frame and original title so that should be good enough for the DMV.
Well done! Clay/Lexi
Make sure you re-attach the plate to the car!! Bring your shop manual, a magnifying glass & a small pen light. Do NOT let them get interested in the data plate.
Good luck, Bob
Here's an idea for removing paint from your ID tag. I've done this with other painted plastic parts with amazing results. The only thing I'm not sure of is the ink remaining and the lettering remaining on the tag itself. If you have a junk one, try it on that one first. In my experience, the technique has never affected the plastic itself, only the paint has been removed.
It's really complicated, so get a pen and several professors to walk you through it: Soak the tag in degreaser concentrate! I last used Super Clean, but any Lowes or Menards degreaser concentrate will work. Good luck and be careful.
Chuck
Brake fluid would also work, as long as it's not DOT5 silicone fluid!