In September 2017, I purchased a 1967 DeVille convertible with 79k on the clock. The car came with 50 year old in tact green leather interior, but missing many of the options such as AC and tilt steering. The 429 was replaced in 1994 with 67K with another 429 which failed sometime in 2011 with 76k miles. The previous owner then installed a 454 crate motor with forged pistons, headers, cam, 3" exhaust, and a 4 barrel carburetor and later model disk brakes; repainted the car its original green, put a new top and a custom set of wheels. From my perspective, it was a great place to start; but the previous owner didn't finish a lot of the details to get it running right.
Since September, I have completed the followowing
- Holley terminator stealth EFI
- Seat belts (they were missing)
- New MSD wires and plugs
- Fixed holes in the headers
- Added vacuum assist to the HEI distributor (it was missing)
- Installed new 2.5 exhaust (previous one was riddled with holes as it was based on a kit and the person installing it didn't know how to weld)
- Fixed ground issues with right side head lights
- Re-wired relays to vacuum pump. (due to the cam, I only have about 14" of manifold vacuum and require a pump to drive vacuum for the brake booster. Unfortunately, the previous owner didn't wire the relays in correctly and they had 2 relays for a function that only required 1. This is now fixed)
- Fixed and installed dedicated vacuum line to transmission.
- Replaced curtesy light bulbs around the car. Many were burnt out
- Fixed the left hand door lock tumbler
- Fixed the Right rear window switch. It has lost the ability to roll up from the drivers door and could only be rolled up from the RR seat switch. The switch was fine, but the wiring between the drivers door and the harness inside the footwell had crack and needed replacing.
I'll throw some pictures up shortly and as there is a long list of stuff still to be completed; I'll start adding those as we get them done.
Thanks,
C Broadfoot
Pre-Purchase Day
Engine Build prior to purchase
Post purchase
1) Exhaust holes
2) Installing EFI in the snow...freak day in early November
Got a chance to get out and work on Hulk today. Installed a Fuel Pressure Sensor into the fuel regulator today. I was troubleshooting some stalling which I thought might be related to lack of fuel; though it might have been related to a open vacuum leak I found on the manifold (via heater). So far its registering 35psi which is a bit low from what it was suppose to be setup for (43psi). To much rain today for a test drive, but will try later on this week.
Very cool!
If I was going to restomod an old Caddy, I'd start with the crate Hemi, that's just me.
Laurie!
Terrific looking car--- your rims work well with the overall original design of the car..they .give it a muscular look that the design deserves --- very nice, indeed. James
Quote from: Cape Cod Fleetwood on January 07, 2018, 11:47:14 PM
Very cool!
If I was going to restomod an old Caddy, I'd start with the crate Hemi, that's just me.
Laurie!
Fleetwood , FLEETWOOD !!!!! You have been doing real well around here. Until this heresy. You rip the soul out of a Cadillac by transplanting another species into it. The subject car was already so modified , therefore no demerits to DaddyD'. And you'd never get those Cad valve covers around a Hemi. You can bore and stroke a Big Block Cad , even stack a "Huffer" on top of it. Cad engines in Cadillacs are allowed to join the field with the other modifieds. A CLC member who drops brand X into the engine bay should be condemned to parking 'round back with the rice burners. Now go wash those typing fingers out with soap , and write "I will not pervert my Cadillac" 100 times on the whiteboard. Next , humbly approach some of our expert 500 (+) cubic inch Cadillac hotrodders , and beg forgiveness. Have 'em "learn you up" on speed equipment and modifications engineered for the enlightened. By the way : did you know that a huge 500 cu. in. Cad weighs LESS than a Chev 454 ? True story ! - CC
Quote from: Carl Fielding on January 10, 2018, 06:44:50 PM
Fleetwood , FLEETWOOD !!!!! You have been doing real well around here. Until this heresy. You rip the soul out of a Cadillac by transplanting another species into it. The subject car was already so modified , therefore no demerits to DaddyD'. And you'd never get those Cad valve covers around a Hemi. You can bore and stroke a Big Block Cad , even stack a "Huffer" on top of it. Cad engines in Cadillacs are allowed to join the field with the other modifieds. A CLC member who drops brand X into the engine bay should be condemned to parking 'round back with the rice burners. Now go wash those typing fingers out with soap , and write "I will not pervert my Cadillac" 100 times on the whiteboard. Next , humbly approach some of our expert 500 (+) cubic inch Cadillac hotrodders , and beg forgiveness. Have 'em "learn you up" on speed equipment and modifications engineered for the enlightened. By the way : did you know that a huge 500 cu. in. Cad weighs LESS than a Chev 454 ? True story ! - CC
ROTFLMAO!!! Well done wood shedding, I deserved it! LOL!
Laurie! LOL!
Thank you James, Carl & Fleetwood
Fleetwood, I love the way you think! The number one feature that I would absolutely do again regardless of block make is EFI. The EFI really transforms the car. The car can sit for two weeks (when its pouring rain in the PWN), put the key in it and it simply starts. Give it gas it roars to life. On a scale of 1 - 10 for difficulty, it is probably a 6 in that its just a lot of pulling stuff apart and you have to run a return line for fuel. Outside of that, its pretty easy to install.
That said, I might be worse than Fleetwood in "her" Hemi dreams. I dream of 100kw Telsa packs installed. (I know, I know...let the flogging begin ;D :))
Quote from: DaddyDeVille on January 13, 2018, 12:19:41 AM
Thank you James, Carl & Fleetwood
Fleetwood, I love the way you think!
HA! Take that boys. 8)
Quote from: DaddyDeVille on January 13, 2018, 12:19:41 AM
That said, I might be worse than Fleetwood in his Hemi dreams.
"his" is a her.. just FYI. :P
Laurie!
Quote"his" is a her.. just FYI.
Well put! and corrected :)
BTW....Nice Fleetwood Laurie :)
Quote from: DaddyDeVille on January 13, 2018, 12:47:32 AM
Well put! and corrected :)
BTW....Nice Fleetwood Laurie :)
THANK you... wait until its painted, new roof and correct sneakers!
Laurie!
Nice car! Welcome on board! 8)
The GOOD.
Parents were in town this weekend and my dad and I needed something to do, so we headed 1.5 hours south to a Junk Yard. Stuff out here in the PNW has a tendency to rust if its left out, but we scored on the parts we were looking for. $35 for a complete transmission cross member, a windshield washer fluid tank, trunk light and right side lower front courtesy light fixture.
The BAD.
Now for some reason, I have a water leak around the hose going to my heater core and my brake booster is under suspicion of failing. Hopefully I get some time this week to investigate. :)
Finally got a chance to look at the water leak and the brake booster. Verdict is a heater core failure and brake booster failure. This is going to be a long spring.
Quote from: DaddyDeVille on January 20, 2018, 11:44:52 PM
Finally got a chance to look at the water leak and the brake booster. Verdict is a heater core failure and brake booster failure. This is going to be a long spring.
:(
OPGI delivered today and my heater core showed up. I was going to order a brake booster and master cylinder, but my dad convinced me not to until I did some further testing. I think it was good to complete the testing, but in the end; it still needs replaced. See its failure to hold pressure at https://1drv.ms/v/s!AimfXu6rRP15rK4XpRM8QjpU8qatnA (totally exciting I know)
Having kids is great, but you work on the car when you can. Tonight I got a couple hours after the kids went to bed. Because I store the car off site and do most of the major work at home, it meant I was heading down to by pass the heater core and retest the brake booster. Braided heater hoses are cool, but what a pain to remove.
Next steps...
- Order a brake booster & master cylinder
- Wait for a weekend with sun where I can bring her home
On other related projects. I am missing the courtesy light bulb housing for the right front courtesy light. As called out earlier, I found one when junk yard hunting; though it was a bit corroded. One of the great things about cars 50 years ago is that these are components that can be completely disassembled. My tail light on my Jeep wrangler is cracked and I have to purchase the whole assembly. They don't offer just the lens. But for a 67 Caddy, the bulb housing can be disassembled, cleaned, rebuilt with minimal standardish tools and put back into use.
Mine has the same issue. I have bought a new check valve (the yellow piece where the hose connects to) and I also ordered a rebuild kit. Quite cheap on Rockauto.
Best regards,
Brake BoosterOn the way home last night, I thought I might do one last check on the brake booster. My setup is weird being that the engine vacuum is low so I have to use an electric pump. The setup starts at the pump, runs through an vacuum pressure sensor switch to shut the pump off and then to the check valve. I had checked the vacuum between the switch and the check valve, but had not checked before the switch. The end result was that vacuum was leaking from the hose that feeds the switch. $2 hose clamp and I was back in business. :D
Lesson learned: Use a vacuum gauge and test each path starting at the source. It takes a little extra time, but I would have ended up there even if I had replaced the booster.
Quote from: DeVille68 on January 27, 2018, 01:48:59 PM
Mine has the same issue. I have bought a new check valve (the yellow piece where the hose connects to) and I also ordered a rebuild kit. Quite cheap on Rockauto.
Good to know...I dodged the bullet this time; but it will be back.
Heater CoreI got back down this evening after the kids went to bed and pulled the heater box & core out of the car. Significantly easier than I expected, though I'm sure it would have been easier with the hood off.
I have heard its harder for other years, but the 67 is pretty much the following steps (all in the engine bay). {My car is probably easier, but it was 1.5 hours to get it out}
- Pull water hoses from heater box
- Remove fan on passenger side of car bolted into the heater box
- Remove 7 bolts on the bottom
- Remove 6 bolts on the top
- Twist and pull all the crap out of the way so you can ease the box out
Hopefully tomorrow, I can assess the leak and the 50 years of rust. Make some decisions on re-finishing vs. purchasing new parts. Being that this is driver, I'm more interested in reliability; but would like it to be rust free. ;D
Got the new heater core from OPGI.com a couple weeks ago and started working on getting it into the heater box. I'm really wondering about OPGI.com now days. They seem to have some quality control issues. I don't know about others, but I would stay clear of them. Heater core has bent pipes and the welds look to sketchy for me to try to bend.
On the other side, I found some old Velcro (the soft side) to use as a pad for the vent door in the heater box. The old one was pretty rotten and being that this just needs to be functional, it looks like it will fit the ticket :)
Heater core is back in and its now time to pull the vacuum switch under the dash. The Defrost and Heat hold vacuum, but in the off position; it fails to hold vacuum. I can only assume this is due to the switch not working correctly. While I have the dash apart, I pulled the receiver out as well. I'm sending it to BillTheRadioGuy.com to have it updated with a current stereo module, aux in, Bluetooth, ect. I want the classic looks, but I also want the modern features and sound.
Below is a picture of the receiver freshly pulled. I'll post another when i get it back. Should look the same but cleaner :)
Also time to clean out the ashtray.....ewww (i'm not a smoker)
good!
any ideas on how to refresh the inside of the ashtray, as mine looks as nasty as yours?
I guess it was plated but rusted badly by now....
Quote from: DeVille68 on February 23, 2018, 01:42:29 PM
good!
any ideas on how to refresh the inside of the ashtray, as mine looks as nasty as yours?
I guess it was plated but rusted badly by now....
Naval jelly and a 0000 steel wool pad to remove the rust, wash thoroughly, dry.
Then a nice coat of Blue Magic?
\m/
Laurie?
What is blue magic?
I mean, do you use some chrome spray paint?
\m/
Laurie!
I'll have to try that out for the Ashtray.
I put the vacuum switch back together day for the heater, but it still wont hold vacuum in the off position. Not sure if its suppose to, but my gut says that it should. I'm going to call "originalair.com" tomorrow. They seem to have replacements, but I want to make sure if I order from them that it works as it should.
Stereo left for Shelton WA (for rebuild) on Friday, hope to get it back in about 4 weeks. I also got the transmission cross member swapped out last weekend. The good is that its no longer hanging down so low that it scrapes speed bumps. The down is that the crossmember was designed for a single exhaust and I have a duel exhaust annnnnnd tranny wont bolt to it and so I will need to make a new center mount that bolts to the cross member. :o ??? :P :-\
You know how your not suppose to start more than one project at a time...The real reason is that it makes updating these forum threads really hard. :D
Factory Stereo Rebuild
Got the stereo back a couple weeks ago and finally got a chance to put it back in. All I can say is "Plug and Play". There were of course a couple extra wires for me due to after market amp, ect. But my factory wiring harness plugged in and the "bent" antenna tried to go up and down. Bluetooth worked, Aux in worked, AM/FM. Its seriously cool and yet looks and "feels" the same as it did before shipping it down.
Everything else under the dash
Because I have the dash apart, i'm still working on the heater control switch. which has not made any progress. I am cleaning up some wiring rats nest from the previous owner and trying to figure out how to mount the EFI computer where the old OEM amplifier was mounted. (If anyone needs a OEM amp, I'm not sure if it works; but you can have it)
Transmission Cross Member
One of the challenges I have been facing from the previous owners move to the 454 was their fail on the transmission cross member. I get why they did what they did, but sometimes its easier to make something than it is to buy expensive parts that could have been managed with 1 small piece of steel, a couple drill bits, a tap and some all thread. The original problem was that the engine sat 1" further away than the original. That means that the transmission was pushed 1" further from the cross member and the hole simply did not line up.
The old solution was to buy an aftermarket cross member that would accept an aftermarket isolater. The result being that the car would bottom out on a speed bump.
The new solution was to locate an OEM cross member and isolater and make a small plate that would enable mounting holes 1" further away. Works pretty much seamlessly except that it was a pain in the @#$@#$% to get it in. Long term, I should probably have someone with more skills than I build me a new cross member, but at least now I can cruise the local Safeway. :)
nice work on the cross-member.
I just restored mine, I sandblasted it, painted it with POR 15 and put in a new rubber from rockauto. Looks like the original, seems to be a good replacement part.
Rock auto has new isolaters? :D (the rubber) I may have to get one of those. The rubber one I installed came out of a junk yard card along with the cross member. Overall, its functional; but I think it should be replaced in the future.
Hm, interesting. Even the master parts catalog has two different part number for 67 and 68.
Rockauto only lists those for 68.
If you like, I can take measurements of the rubber piece and you can check and see if it will fit your 67 cross member
Best regards,
Nicolas
Quote from: DeVille68 on April 22, 2018, 07:23:52 AM
Hm, interesting. Even the master parts catalog has two different part number for 67 and 68.
Rockauto only lists those for 68.
If you like, I can take measurements of the rubber piece and you can check and see if it will fit your 67 cross member
Best regards,
Nicolas
That would be awesome! Even more so as I think the cross member came out of a 70 limo.
Weather is good here in the pacific north west right now and my wife has been a huuuge help in letting me play.
Had 2 projects lined up for today where I completed one and got a good start on the second.
1st up, I needed to install a oil pressure sensor. I picked up one on Amazon for $30 that snaps into the Holley EFI. The nice part is that this part works for fuel pressure as well, so I get info for both using the same part number. Once I got the plug out of the block (no need to drain oil), bushing installed and sensor installed, I ran the wires into the same loom I used for the rest of the EFI and into the dash.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NIK9E10/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
2nd up, being that the dash is torn apart, I'm trying to finish up the stereo install. I got the antenna pulled today and need to figure out if I can repair the mast. Their is a bend in the very top portion that does not allow it to pull in all the way. The other work item is that the fool that owned the car before me had Car Toys try to install a stereo. Yes, I have ranted on this previously, but they CUT holes into the rear interior quarter panels for speakers.. ??? Being that its a convertible, you cant even have the speakers in the holes as the top mechanicals conflicts and so now we just have 2 holes. So I pulled the original speakers from under the top and they still work! They sound like crap, but at least i know the location can work and I can start working on building a new box as the originals are cardboard with new speakers.
Anyone that has a set of Green interior quarter panels, i might be interested if the price is right :D.
Picture 1 - Testing LCD that I'm using while we get the car in shape. It will be in the glove box after I finish it.
Picture 2 - One of the 2 original factory rear speakers and box that was under the convertible top
Hi,
I have a picture with the dimensions attached.
First sketch shows the view from the top.
Second sketch from the side
and third sketch from the bottom (as if you were lying under the car)
Dimensions are in cm but the hole diameters are in mm.
Best regards,
Nicolas
Quote from: DeVille68 on April 28, 2018, 02:14:31 PM
Hi,
I have a picture with the dimensions attached.
First sketch shows the view from the top.
Second sketch from the side
and third sketch from the bottom (as if you were lying under the car)
Dimensions are in cm but the hole diameters are in mm.
Best regards,
Nicolas
Thank you Nicolas! :)
Success on repairing the antenna :D
The antenna motor appeared to work, but the first leg of the antenna was bent. (solid core inner most part) It wasn't bent bad, but bad enough that it would not go up and down. I got it apart based on the instructions in the OEM manual, but as I didn't have a 12v battery charged to extend the mast with, I felt it best to call around for a replacement mast. That proved to be quite entertaining as I called Stan at http://www.classiccarantennas.com. He didn't carry any mast for a power antenna, but was a hoot to chat with. When I told him what I was working on and what the problem was, he told me to "get on the floor with it and roll it with a piece of wood". Call me slow or his southern drawl a bit like Mater the tow truck, but I finally got what he was talking about. In the end, I was able to bend it in the vice and though not perfect, completely operations. When I was finished, I sprayed the wand with silicone graphite garage door rail lubricant and it works like a charm.
pictures below of disassembly that was based totally on the instructions in the book. Desoldering as called out in the book is as easy as applying heat from the soldering iron to the tip of the contact as shown in the picture. Pulling the mast from the motor base take a bit of error as does the outer tube as shown in the last few pics. It does not simply just slide apart.
For testing purposes, I found that you need to grown the chassis of the motor (see black wire) to a battery. Each one of the leads that connect to the motor are positive feeds. One drives the antenna up and the other down. If you look at the pictures below, the red takes It up and the yellow takes it down.
Thanks for the detailed posts. Sue helps someone having the same issues.
I got the antenna installed today so that now I can finally listen to FM radio! (that is of course when I'm not on Bluetooth) :)
Now that the antenna was out of the way, I figured I would take a look and try to fix the oil leak on my valve covers. After torqueing them to 3lbs and then to 6, I heard a pop on one of the studs. One of the valve covers had cracked! Ok, so lets pull it off and take a look. I was shocked to find out that not only had it cracked, it looks to have cracked prior and they JB' welded it. If that wasn't enough, it looks like they had a clearance problem and tried grounding the underside of the cover. So yeah, there goes some more $$$$. Thankfully Summit is pretty fast in regards to shipping. Its too bad though that I cant find the Cadillac scripted ones for a 454. Wish I knew where they had gotten them in the past.
Something like this work?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-CADILLAC-CHROME-SCRIPT-LOGO-EMBLEM-6-INCH/192504944748?hash=item2cd230586c:g:x7sAAOSwiuxaySL6&vxp=mtr
Ended bailing and ran for a set of billet industries valve covers. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bsp-96124
Over all they look good, but I only have one installed (replaced the bad one) and still need to replace the other this weekend if I have time. (Hey, its nice out and I would rather drive it than work on it)
On the other side, I finished restoring/ish my front ash tray. Weird I know cause I don't smoke. ;D
Oh and regards to cleaning it out. The chrome buckets I just used some metal polish with a brass brush. Its still a bit cruddy in their, but overall looks much better. The areas without chrome are now kind of a dark metal color.
The rest, I simply disassembled and painted with some silver metallic paint from Home Depot. I'm sure it wouldn't last if you smoked in the car, but for me it will work fine. Long term, I want to put a small backup camera screen where the ash trays are now, but its going to take some more engineering to get that project sorted.
Quote from: DeVille68 on February 23, 2018, 01:42:29 PM
good!
any ideas on how to refresh the inside of the ashtray, as mine looks as nasty as yours?
I guess it was plated but rusted badly by now....
There are ups and downs to owning an old car that is not really a full custom, but is not really stock either. And of course, there is the fact that much of the stuff I'm fixing was contributed via the previous owner.
With the kids off to the first day of school, I decided to take the day off and spend it with the Hulk. Evaluating the (#23 of 500 things that need to be adjusted, fixed, replaced or sorted) aka, horn not working. My dad and I looked at this some time back and only found a single green wire going to 2 of the 3 horns. (it appears the large one is missing) Running out of time, it was suggested that we pull the pad off the steering wheel and chase it down.
I have a picture of my steering wheel with the pad off below, but if I was to start looking to solve this problem, start with the horn it self and make sure it works. You can do this by jumping the horn and applying 12 volts directly to the leed. if it goes off, time to go up stream
In my case, i had a GREEN wire coming from the horn, but no realy. Yet when looking at the wiring diagram in the book, there was suppose to be a red and black wire feeding a relay. I also found no relay cause yeah...someone else had done something with it.
After looking for these red and black wires and finding them coming from the main brick/wiring harness, i decided to pull all the wire out so that i could chase this red and black wire. After disconnecting the horn, left side headlights, left side parking lights, left side turn signals and left side corner lamps (#24 of things to figure out why it doesnt work), i pulled the wires from behind the fender. When i got about half of the wire pulled back, a horn relay appeared! :) :) :)
I still dont know where it is suppose to be mounted (PLEASE, IF ANYONE KNOWS, DO TELL), but after testing the relay, i confirmed it was bad. Just so happened i had a 3 wire horn relay laying around. Its not orignial, but it works for the time being. In the mean time, i'm going to try to find one and figure out where it is suppose to be mounted.
Nice day off if i do say so :)
The horn worked for a while. I never checked the horn relay that I had laying around for what the draw it was rated for, but in any event; its gone now too. :(
The horn however will have to wait. I shipped off my heater control valve to original air a couple weeks ago and its suppose to be back around early November which will be nice as I can have heat back in the car. For now though it will have to wait too as I had also been fighting bad brakes. Though someone had converted the front to disks using a disk conversion kit; they did not replace the master cylinder or the booster. The MC was leaking into the booster and the booster would release all vacuum on a single blow. In a nutshell, I had a 50 year old booster that should be thoroughly tested, a 15 year old MC that had failed and front disks that were designed in the 60s and installed in the 2000s. So, now I have new brakes on order from CPP. :)
OOOH cant wait.....to do more work outside while its snowing or raining.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.classicperform.com%2FStore2%2FBrakes%2F6162CBK-13.jpg&hash=73d11e8b59ce47895ff764a9872ad5377f232826)
October to March is a long time. During this time, I returned the CCP products, invested a lot of time learning how brakes work and ordered a specific set of Wilwood brake products for the car. At age 46, I should know this. You get what you pay for.
Learnings
1) Dont ever buy from Classic Performance Products. They dont design or manufacture their parts and they do not understand what they are selling. Products are low cost manufactured and low quality and will require modification for bolt on kits.
2) There are folks out there (eg: brakepower.com) that understand what it takes to design a brake system. Do some reading and figure out what it takes to stop a 4500lb car.
3) Get brake fluid pressure gauge from SSBC Brakes (you can buy it on Amizon if you like) This is really the fastest way to understand what your brakes are doing from a pressure perspective.
4) Now that you know what it takes to stop your car, buy from a reputal supplier. I can attest that Wilwood is that company.
The plan is now to replace the whole front circuit leaving the existing front rotors and rear drums in place.
New parts
A) dual diaphram booster
B) Wilwood tandom master cylinder (looks like fine jewelry)
C) Wilwood proportioning valve and bracket
D) new hardlines and stainless flex lines
E) Wilwood D52 2 piston calipers
Taking Friday off for tear down and install.
Looks good! In my opinion stainless lines is probably overkill, but sure looks nice.
What was the reason you returned CPP? Fitment issues?
I don't have issues with my original drums, they bring the car to a stop. Even down twisty mountain roads. One has to drive carefully though. Not like a new car in any perspective. Yours is going to be like that I guess..
Best regards,
Nicolas
Agree, Wilwood is the big dog and the way to go.
Quote from: DeVille68 on March 11, 2019, 03:37:17 AM
Looks good! In my opinion stainless lines is probably overkill, but sure looks nice.
What was the reason you returned CPP? Fitment issues?
CCP... If I had a shit list for a company, these guys would be on it.
The previous owner had installed a disk brake kit and my guess is that the original drums probably worked better as the car could barely stop with disks up front. I bought a kit from CCP mostly cause I was looking for a turn key solution that I could install in a weekend and then go back to playing with the kids. When I opened up the boxes there were a couple alarming issues. 1) the brake calipers which I had paid for the red ones had been put in a cheep card board box while they were still wet. Even the CCP logo was smudged. Then when looking at the booster, I found that the boosters bolt pattern was not the same as the Deville. The 67 Deville has a 4 x 3-3/8 where may of the GM cars have an offset bolt pattern. The booster they sell is just a general purpose GM setup. So now I'm a little freaked out as I paid about $1400 after shipping. I start looking at the interwebs and find all kinds of anti-CCP folks and many claims around problems returning products. I then find my self looking at their support guides and find one stating that you need to paint the M/C prior to installation or it will rust. The M/C that came with the kit was already assembled to the booster and the proportioning valve which means it all has to come apart. Ok, I'm mechanically inclined so I start looking at the booster more carefully and realize that not only is the bolt pattern wrong, but the bolts are way to big and not long enough and in general will not fit in the car. I tried to return it and of course, they were not interested. I had to resolve to credit card services to get my money back.
After dealing with Wilwood and Jamco, those guys know their products. I would use them again in a heart beat. The Jamco booster simply worked and the Wilwood stuff is first class. Not only that, if you need to lookup the dimensions or length of the piston in the M/C, they have it documented and published. All in all, after buying from Wilwood and Jamco; I saved $600.
Few pics of the completed project. 4500lb car stops like a dream now. ;D :D 8)
Like many of these boats, my instrument panel is pretty rusty. I just located a nice replacement and time to re-install. About a year ago, when I was attempting to remove the rusty instrument panel, i was having difficulty getting the speedometer cable removed along with the silly wave washer that holds it in. While installing the replacement and then having to pull it back out, I grabbed the opportunity to photograph it. I found that a 15mm open ended wrench can be simply pressed away from the cluster towards the window and that will push on the wave washer and disconnect the cable. No bloody knuckels.
Hope this helps someone.
While I'm on the topic of instrument clusters, the shop manual talks about the instrument connector and the "Key" facing up. I think this is a bug in the book as there are many. Also note that the far right and far left vertical edges are not the same, so the plug will only fit in one way.
The following shows the connector from the book and a map when looking at the connector pins as it should face when it connects with the cluster. In addtion, I measured the voltage on each pin with the key on and with the key off (in bold).
Hope this helps someone.
Here is some thing might be useful Amazon $10 Seperates wires from plug. Terminal Remover Kit
Going to order one of those now!! Thanks :)
A little late providing an update as the smoke rolled into the PNW and I had a need to put the car back in storage right away. Thankfully, in September; I had the chance to get the dashboard back together and get the speakers mounted under the dash. Having working dashlights is amazing as well as its weird to think that the dash panel is black with white lettering and the light shows in from the sides to aluminate.