With the '70 as we all know, the 'test' for the ENG TEMP light and buzzer system is inserting the key into the ignition. Turn the key all the idiot lights go on, and all go off, including the buzzer at the end of the start cycle. That's how its supposed to work.
With my car when you open the drivers door the ENG TEMP light and buzzer go on.
Shut the door, light and buzzer go off. Insert the key, normal start, and the light and buzzer are still on. Press on the cylinder and the light and buzzer go off. Release pressure and they go back on. With the car not running and no key in the ignition if you push the button on the inside of the door, or shut the door, the light and buzzer go off.
This has to be a replacement cylinder that was installed incorrectly. The ignition key opens the front doors so it "might" be original or they had the replacement keyed for the old key.
Is this something "I" can fix? Or does it stay on the "honey do" list for HVA? Something in that cylinder is shorting, touching something it shouldn't.
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Laurie?
Could be something sticking in there too. Got nothing to lose with a little shot of graphite lube in there to see if something frees up.
Quote from: Dan LeBlanc on March 20, 2018, 08:05:25 AM
Could be something sticking in there too. Got nothing to lose with a little shot of graphite lube in there to see if something frees up.
Hmmm, graphite powder that comes in a small tube, right Dan?
Just blast some into where the key goes?
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Laurie?
Basically the car thinks the key is on it all the time. The graphite/lube should help. If not exercise it multiple times. Basically the car thinks the key is on it all the time and reminding you to take it out when you open the door. The fact that it goes away when you mess with it leads me to think it is working, but just stuck.
Jeff
There is a small tab on the ignition cylinder that moves the contact for the buzzer when the key is inserted. The problem is either that the tab is stuck, or the ignition buzzer contact is stuck together. You have to remove the steering wheel to replace either part. It is not particularly difficult, but there are some fragile parts that can broken if care is not taken. You can find lots of how to's and videos on the web as any GM car of the era with a tilt-telescoping steering wheel will be similar.
Something like this will work. You never want to put a wet lube in a lock. It will attract dust and affect the operation of the tumbler over time once the pins get full of crud.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Blaster-5-5-oz-Industrial-Graphite-Dry-Lubricant-8-GS/202597501
Thanks guys!
Yea I'm not taking off the steering wheel... if I had a reason to do that I'd change the steering wheel to a nice one.
Dan I'll hit Home Cheapo locally and get a can of that, thanks! Just one 'big blast' into where the key goes? A 'small blast'? ?? Sorry, ex-military and I thrive on exact instructions.
Then cycle the cylinder a few times? If it doesn't work it has to come out I guess, "they" can do that....
thanks again guys!
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Laurie
A couple little short squirts should be fine.
Quote from: Cape Cod Fleetwood on March 20, 2018, 11:22:07 PM
Then cycle the cylinder a few times?
No, key in/out multiple times. Need to get that little tab freed up. If I remember correctly that buzzer circuit is down by the horn relay and can be disconnected if it drives you crazy. Mine actually is. I just try to remember to not leave the key in the car.
Jeff
Quote from: Jeff Rose CLC #28373 on March 21, 2018, 11:37:01 AM
No, key in/out multiple times. Need to get that little tab freed up. If I remember correctly that buzzer circuit is down by the horn relay and can be disconnected if it drives you crazy. Mine actually is. I just try to remember to not leave the key in the car.
Jeff
Thanks Jeff!
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Laurie
A word of warning on that graphite lube. That stuff is really messy and it stains anything it comes into contact with. I would hold a paper towel around the ignition switch to catch any back-spray that might come out of the keyhole.
If I remember these on the column 69-70 keys correctly, there is a little give where you should be able to push the switch in towards the column and it should spring back. Something in there is sticking. Use dry lube, wet lube (I use silicon spray) and then some air to clean it out along with several key in - out twist iterations to get it freed up.
Don't ever force that ignition, there's a curved gear do-hickey that is different from the non T&T columns that can break and it's hard to find and pricey. If the wheel is locked and binding, turn it in the opposite direction before turning the ignition switch. That's another reason to always use the parking brake, it helps prevent that wheel / column binding especially when on inclines.
So I gave it a quick blast of the product Dan recommended and worked the key in and out like Jeff recommended and used a towel like Bentley recommended. No difference. 2 more blasts, more manipulation.
The temp light and buzzer still go on when I open the drivers door.
But now both go off when the car is started.
I'm happy, next..... THANK YOU.
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Laurie