I'll try and keep a long story short. Had a 50+ year retired mechanic friend put in a wiring kit in the '53. Took the car to him, lives 55 miles away. My brother drove the car back to me......almost. Made it 53 miles. Died with no electronics. Tow it to my place. Has no lights, no horn, no 'clicking', nothing. But the windows work. Battery measures 100%. My 'guy' has offered to come down to me and look at it but he has some major health issues and I'm trying to save him a drive, plus my 4-car garage is not heated.
I'm guessing ignition. Maybe a wire has come off? He didn't do the ignition wiring (buddy did) because his hands aren't the steadiest. Coil wires look good. Am I getting warm?
Quote from: bullet bob on November 18, 2018, 07:41:20 AM
I'll try and keep a long story short. Had a 50+ year retired mechanic friend put in a wiring kit in the '53. Took the car to him, lives 55 miles away. My brother drove the car back to me......almost. Made it 53 miles. Died with no electronics. Tow it to my place. Has no lights, no horn, no 'clicking', nothing. But the windows work. Battery measures 100%. My 'guy' has offered to come down to me and look at it but he has some major health issues and I'm trying to save him a drive, plus my 4-car garage is not heated.
I'm guessing ignition. Maybe a wire has come off? He didn't do the ignition wiring (buddy did) because his hands aren't the steadiest. Coil wires look good. Am I getting warm?
If you have a Service Manual under the electrical section there should be a generic wiring diagram which would assist you in the troubleshooting.
Per the diagram, the main power +12V would come from the battery cable at the solenoid, this feeds over to the horn relay “B†terminal, ignition switch “BAT†terminal, V-regulator “B†terminal and the headlight switch. The feed is label as a 12 gauge red with cross tracer wire not sure if your new hardness has the same color code.
You will need to check these terminations with a test light prove or voltmeter and see if power is present, since you mention you lost the horn and cranking I would start with those and work backwards.
Good luck..!
Thanks for the quick reply.
Yes, do have the service manual, couple of 'em. Will get out there and play with it. Maybe I can save the guy a trip. Thanks!
It would be a good idea to inspect the wiring at the starter, battery, alternator/(generator?). I don't know the '53 but it seems strange that basically it sounds like nothing electrical works except the power windows unless someone wired them in separately. Windows are a fairly large load otherwise I would ask what you meant by "Battery measures 100%". Do you simply mean around the proper voltage or measures good with a load.
What was the wiring kit for? There can of course be coincidence but many times something happens immediately after work it was something "touched" by what was done so you should review all of the areas affected by the wiring kit.
Good luck,
Scott
Quote from: J. Gomez on November 18, 2018, 08:36:24 AM
If you have a Service Manual under the electrical section there should be a generic wiring diagram which would assist you in the troubleshooting.
Per the diagram, the main power +12V would come from the battery cable at the solenoid, this feeds over to the horn relay “B†terminal, ignition switch “BAT†terminal, V-regulator “B†terminal and the headlight switch. The feed is label as a 12 gauge red with cross tracer wire not sure if your new hardness has the same color code.
You will need to check these terminations with a test light prove or voltmeter and see if power is present, since you mention you lost the horn and cranking I would start with those and work backwards.
Good luck..!
First placed we looked....feed wire connector didn't have a good crimp and came loose. I love it when it's something obvious! Thanks for all your help.
Quote from: 79 Eldorado on November 18, 2018, 05:34:39 PM
It would be a good idea to inspect the wiring at the starter, battery, alternator/(generator?). I don't know the '53 but it seems strange that basically it sounds like nothing electrical works except the power windows unless someone wired them in separately. Windows are a fairly large load
The 1953 models still had hydraulic windows (and front seat). They always work -- even if the key is not in the ignition.
John Emerson
1952 Cadilllac sedan 6219X
The windows will work because they use a separate feed from the battery. Power for the rest of the car comes from the connection at the starter solenoid.