I bought it about a year ago for $!7,775, he wanted $20,000. There were a few minor thing wrong but enough to chew him down. Originally it looked like this. Now during restoration it looks like this.
So I bought the car in Michigan and everything worked basically except first few small items . Brought it home and everything fell a part. I replace the power steering pump, the battery, carburetor, generator, water control valve, some vacuum hoses, heater core, the convertible top motor, hoses. and cylinders, among other things. So I didn't actually save any money but it was worth it for 20,000 I got a decent car.
So other than that i dyed the interior to black, put in new speakers, a new top, carpets and floor mats. Everything came out good and this morning I realized I've been working on the car for a full year. How time flies when you're having fun. LOL I'll still need tires and shocks.
The timing keeps slipping every once in a while I go to start it and the carburetor fires up like a volcano. I guess it's either the distributor timing chain or a valve that's hanging up.
Well that's it for now. Oh one other thing, i found out the car was sitting in the yard for about six years.
Nice work! More satisfying to have been a part of the restoration so you know exactly it’s perfection and shortcomings. When people “give you their word†it’s always subjective ;)
Is the ac belt teeth out?
rajeevx7 Yes the teeth are out Why do you ask? When ever i do something major i do sit back and appreciate what i did. By mid summer she'll be triple black.
I dyed the leather from very faded gold to black. The job was very easy and came out great.
I bought the kit from Furniture Clinic. If your going to do a whole car get the extra large kit. The kit comes with an air gun and compressor. Great deal.
Usually the teeth are tapered inwards to slip into the v-channel. Of course, yours could be different, but worth a look :)
Nice to find a dye that holds through wear. I have had great success with Duplicolor brand fabric spraypaint dye. Holding up on my jet ski seats that get beaten up by Florida UV rays 8)
Got heat back today. Comming out of the air con. vent though. But its a start.
Vacume level is right where it's supposed to be even with a few leaks. Need to get the tubing that directs the exhaust out the garage. Builds up quick. Got sick today.
Had a knock in the engine, used some engine cleaner, changed the oil and filter. Sounds great. Hope it stays that way.
The car heats up really quick. I start it, chokes closed, get out the car, choke is almost fully open.
Not even 1 minute.
Sweet ride man. :) I bout a 67 just over a year ago and ran into similar issues. I bought it though with the intention that it was a project, so no surprise.
Its fun cutting teeth on these old boats. :)
rajeevx7 The key to the dye i used is the amount of coats of the finish and to let it set 10 full days.
Mine set in a cold garage.
Thanks Daddy
Working on the vacume system today. What a pain. Wish it were summer.
Gave up on the vacume for the day. Waaaay too cold.
Working indoors on that piece in the cruise control, plastic with teeth. This is the 5th time i'm working on a new one. They just keep breaking.
Quote from: spolij on January 09, 2019, 07:15:51 PM
Gave up on the vacume for the day. Waaaay too cold.
Working indoors on that piece in the cruise control, plastic with teeth. This is the 5th time i'm working on a new one. They just keep breaking.
Whenever you work on plastic stuff, make sure that it is at room temperature, like 60F or more.
Bruce. >:D
Yep working indoors. By the way it broke again. :-\
my idle pins were a sloppy fit. ordered a rebuild kit from Datona parts. The new needles fit fine. Luckily it came with a new supply pump cause i ruined mine taking it out. Now i have to take the top of the carb. off. :-\
I’m not sure what you budgeted for this resto, but I recommend fuel injecting everything! If you are straying from all strict oem or 1966 era replications at all AND can budget it, it’s a no brainer ;) if you are confining yourself to oem only, period correct or aren’t willing to part with the money I COMPLETELY understand that.
$1200 and fuel mapping/afr drops WAY down the ‘possible cause’ list of of future troubleshooting 8) As you can read, I can’t praise the Holley Sniper enough!
rajeevx7 I have no problem modifying the engine. Not the body or the interior.
I'd imagine fuel injection only increases gas millage.
I don't know how it's installed. The injectors can't replace the spark plugs. I'd like to know.
Atany rate $1200 is too much for me right now. Budget?? HaHaHa
I didn't want to pay the money right now for the in car sensor(climate control). So i made one. Looks better in person.
Now i'm looking for a pcv vacume hose, But also everything i see has this T along with it. Don't know where it goes.
Yesterday i put new needle valves in and the car would not hold low idle. Also i ruined the accelorator pump trying to replace it. So i pulled the carb finally realized i had to remove the top of the bowl. So i did all that put in the old needle valves and put it back in. End of the day. Tomorrow's another day.
No work on the car garage is still too cold. Hovering around -0-
only a little work today. still too cold. Tomorrow supposed to be in the 50's. Back to work.
So here's an update. The interior is just about done dying it all black having a lot of trouble with the timing on the engine seems like I get it running, runs good for a while then it won't start backfires from the carburetor, readjust the timing, runs good for a while starts backfiring over and over and over. So I don't feel like dealing with the timing chain and I'm sending it to my mechanic, let him take care of it. Hopefully it's a distributor LOL
Well the car goes to the mechanic next week. I've got a feeling this is gonna hurt.
Got the car ready to move last night almost brought a tear to my eye LOL. The mechanic I use is very good and quick. Hopefully I'll have it back by Thursday. Can't wait, it's been off the road for a month or so now. Once I get the top fully installed I'll be on the road again. There are still a lot of small things to fix like the climate control, cruise control etc. but I'll get there. Early summer and I'll start repainting and the car will then be triple black.
What degree btdc are you setting timing at idle? Are you capping the vac advance hose off after disconnecting it? You sure the 1/2†lockdown nut is tight, and not stripped/loose?
I know the feeling of just letting a mechanic take over and wash your hands of the whole mess...going through it right now myself on another thing.
rajeevx7 At idle it's 5 degrees. The nut is tight. No i did not cap the vacuum advance hose. I'll try that next. Thanks.
I know it sounds goofy, and I DO NOT KNOW WHY, but I couldn’t get my 429 started at 5btdc the latest time I removed the dizzy. I moved it to about 10-11 and then fine tuned it to 13-15 btdc at idle. This was after checking for tdc on the compression stroke for 1billion attempts and lining #1 up with #1 piston.
Yes, remove the vac line to the advance actuator and cap the line/intake side.
rajeevx7 I got it started. I realize that I had advanced the timing so many times to no avail. So I retarded the distributor about an inch started right up still needs a little fine-tuning. I had it on the road for a few minutes and it runs pretty good just has a little hesitation on acceleration. I forgot what you said about capping the line to the vacuum advance unit.
What you think of these tachometers that use some kind a laser light don't have to be wired to the engine?
Glad to hear! You MUST get a timing light! Mine runs well at 13-15 btdc after it would not start at what I thought was 5btdc.
I have an old Honda motorcycle with an upgraded tach. It gets its signal from a wire I have wrapped around a spark plug wire. (Or something like that...it’s been awhile ;) Seems to read 99.9% accurate, just never tested it against another meter.
:-[ :-\ :'(So about six hours later tried to start the car turned over but it misfired through the carburetor again. The timing was set at 5°. Tomorrow I'll give the timing one more shot if not, it's off to the mechanic.
This morning made some adjustments. Running decent. 3 hours later, back fire again.
Road trip tomorrow.
So the lady is home.After all that it was a bad part in choke so he fixed that readjusted, the mechanic said he found two massive leaks in the vacuum system. I could've sworn I checked all the main vacuum lines I had plenty of pressure according to the book.
At any rate it's running I'm happy. Now I can move on to finish installing the top.
Next month I may get two new tires and the next month the other two.
John,
Glad to hear your car is running again. Tracking down a vacuum leak isn't easy â€" lots of places to check. As Savemy67 said, your car has 87 feet of vacuum lines.
Hey Bentley I can't believe I could've missed it. He said to massive leaks. I put the vacuum gauge to almost every line I found and everything was fine. Maybe I disconnected something while I was looking or adjusting. I'll know better next time. Hopefully there is no next time LOL.
I took it out and drove it three times since I got her back this morning, just to make sure.
Okay back to the same old crap... Car home was running pretty good.. Three hours later started It up the high idle was probably about 1200 running rough weighted till some heat buildup goosed it came down to a very low idle barely running.The choke was set totally closed I mean the plate was against the housing.
Will have a talk with the mechanic in the morning.
Okay so I bring the lady back to the mechanic. Keeps it for a day. He calls me and says he did the best he could and it's running okay. The bill was $51 and that's when I got nervous. Drove it home, it ran terrible. I popped the hood, looked around looked around for a half-hour and finally noticed that they didn't connect the PCV valve. I put the valve in but I had to cap off the hose because I can't find an original hose. Three taps on the gas started right up went to high idle warmed up and went to low idle put it into gear went in with out smashing into gear. Took it for a ride it was okay a little sluggish but drove well.
Now on to installing the top.
By the way does anyone know where to get OEM PCV hose?
Quote from: spolij on March 04, 2019, 07:55:37 PM
Okay so I bring the lady back to the mechanic. Keeps it for a day. He calls me and says he did the best he could and it's running okay. The bill was $51 and that's when I got nervous. Drove it home, it ran terrible. I popped the hood, looked around looked around for a half-hour and finally noticed that they didn't connect the PCV valve. I put the valve in but I had to cap off the hose because I can't find an original hose. Three taps on the gas started right up went to high idle warmed up and went to low idle put it into gear went in with out smashing into gear. Took it for a ride it was okay a little sluggish but drove well.
Now on to installing the top.
By the way does anyone know where to get OEM PCV hose?
Is it the one with a 90° bend molded in?
MaR
Yes it is, one end goes under the intake manifold and the end of that is swedged (larger than the rest of the tubing), the other end comes up over the front of the manifold and into the carburetor plate to the PCV valve.
There is one that keeps coming up on the net, but they say it won't fit it looks just like mine but it has this molded fitting I guess you'd say at the end.
There is this unit that comes out of the rear of the Valley pan, which i cant get out, it's not in the manuel, with a pipe connected to it that runs under the intake manifold, towards the front of the engine and that's where the tubing plugs onto. You can't see that end as it is under the manifold.
I can't believe this tubing is so strong the rubber is very thick maybe an 1/8" thick and has a steel wire running through it. I mean come it's a vacume line. Attached are pictures.
You better check your timing chain for play. If it slips enough, your valves will smash into your pistons and then it's complete rebuild time. Not worth it.
Easy to check. Put a socket on the crank bolt and turn both directions while watching how long it takes your distributor rotor to start moving.
While you're checking for a sluggish running engine, try connecting a piece of 1/8 rubber hose to your distributor's vacuum advance and sucking on the hose. It should NOT leak air. The diaphragms on these advance pods will leak vacuum because the vacuum chamber ruptures on so many cars, and these vacuum advance devices are rarely EVER checked and thus rarely changed, and the result is a rough running idle, less than efficient gas mileage, and a sluggish running engine under load. They are relatively easy to replace, and if leaking, a new one will make you think you purchased a new engine. Another culprit for leaking intake vacuum is the metal vacuum reserve can that's mounted on your firewall. Over the years, these tin cans develop fractures, and here again, will create a rough idle. Hope these suggestions are NOT new to you. Happy day, James
hornetball The timing chain is about a year old but I did check it again the way you mentioned thanks .
James I usually pull the vacuum line from the vacuum advance and if it changes the engine speed I call it good. But I'll try your suggestion. I know the part your talking about that vacuum storage tank but I don't know how to check and see if it's working or not. Once I tried putting it under water and blowing compressed air into it and nothing happened. How would you check it?
Quote from: spolij on February 12, 2019, 07:35:11 AMSo I don't feel like dealing with the timing chain and I'm sending it to my mechanic, let him take care of it.
I saw this and didn't see another mention of timing chain replacement. So I assumed you still had the original. Sorry.
Re: 1966 deville convertible
« Reply #39 on: Yesterday at 07:27:08 PM »
Quote
hornetball The timing chain is about a year old but I did check it again the way you mentioned thanks .
James I usually pull the vacuum line from the vacuum advance and if it changes the engine speed I call it good. But I'll try your suggestion. I know the part your talking about that vacuum storage tank but I don't know how to check and see if it's working or not. Once I tried putting it under water and blowing compressed air into it and nothing happened. How would you check it?"
John, I think you've checked the two elements that would concern me. If you can "modulate" the engine speed by connecting and disconnecting the vacuum hose to the advance, you're likely fine with that part. I would check each vacuum hose off of the manifold in the same way--- invest in a vacuum gauge and "tee" into each "device," checking for leaks. Oft times, the vacuum release on the emergency brake is a leaker. Not sure what vacuum suction should be present in a well running Cadillac engine of that vintage, but you can tell a lot if you have the precise number, and then go through a few "checks" using the throttle. I with patience, you'll get the gremlins out of your engine. James
Hornet no problem.
James how would you check the vacuum storage unit?
Here again, a vacuum gauge is capable of measuring the vacuum "teed" into the device... and by measuring the difference in vacuum value with the input to the device plugged off. I suggest that you google vacuum gauge applications as well as research the vacuum specification on your car at idle. A vacuum gauge can be a valuable tool to track down leaks that cause rough idle, poor gas mileage, and sluggish performance. James
I'd recommend you get one of those brake bleeder/vacuum pumps. I've used mine to check every vacuum actuator on the car -- and found several that were bad. Easy-peasy. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Savicos-Bleeder-Automotive-Motorbike-Bleeding/dp/B07D76TD39/ref=pd_day0_hl_263_2/134-4706801-4349669?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07D76TD39&pd_rd_r=af7e0b9a-40f1-11e9-a824-df4daa8f2bd1&pd_rd_w=scWUz&pd_rd_wg=quQ5k&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=37P0XB0DQ2641NV5EA02&psc=1&refRID=37P0XB0DQ2641NV5EA02
Note that you don't have to order online. Should be readily available at the local parts store.
A vacuum gauge should also be in your toolbox. Invaluable for setting idle mixture and checking the overall health of the engine.
Excellent suggestion.
Here is a website with a video about how to properly use and interpret a vacuum gauge with several different scenarios ---
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm
You may have to click on "Run Adobe Flash" to see the video, Adobe is safe.
James
That vacuum storage unit draws vacuum directly from the intake manifold so if the vacuum tester is on the other side of the storage unit and I'm getting vacuum pressure, does that mean that the unit is working properly?
35.
Thank you I'll check it out.
Hornet.
I have a break bleeder thing that I bought to bleed to system from my convertible top but it doesn't have that handgun for creating vacuum I assume that's what you mean it creates vacuum and allows you to see if some working when it's getting vacuum. But if you disconnected the vacuum line feeding something and you getting vacuum doesn't that do the same thing?
James.
I do have a vacuum gauge and I use it often. Even if I know I have vacuum I use it to check the inches or degrees of vacuum. Between my shop manual and a booklet on climate control that I bought from a member here there is a tremendous amount of information on vacuum pressures.
Quote from: spolij on March 07, 2019, 12:56:06 PMI have a break bleeder thing that I bought to bleed to system from my convertible top but it doesn't have that handgun for creating vacuum I assume that's what you mean it creates vacuum and allows you to see if some working when it's getting vacuum. But if you disconnected the vacuum line feeding something and you getting vacuum doesn't that do the same thing?
The hand vacuum pumps let you test a vacuum device/hose in isolation from the engine. You connect to the device, pump away to create vacuum and then you can monitor the gauge to see if the vacuum holds (i.e., no leaks). Real handy.
Using engine vacuum with a vacuum gauge in parallel isn't quite the same thing. After all, you've got 472 or 501 cubic inches continuously pulling hard. If a vacuum leak is small, you may never see it.
Hi John--- we've important parallel conversations in progress. Regarding the "repurposed tin can hanging on your fire wall" I'll tell you what I think. I owned a 65 SDV with the black "tin can," that overtime developed a slight rupture along the bottom. I could not get the roughness out of the idle until I tracked down that leak... John, that was 45 years ago, and I surmised that the crack in the can was due to metal fatigue --- that is, was the intense fluctuation of vacuum, the metal at the seam simple gave up. I believe the "can" was used to provide vacuum power lock actuation when the motor was off, so I believe there was built into the device, some kind of check valve that would hold the vacuum in the can when the engine was off. Hope this helps. James
James
that's exactly what it does is store vacuum when the engine is off so the power door locks and trunk locks work at least for a while.
I just don't understand how it can hold vacuum when the other line gives up the vacuum when needed. There is a valve on the inside it's totally covered up. I guess that's what controls the output of the tank.
I think you've nailed it John... must be a "reed valve" at the top to the tin can. My 67 Eldorado had a much more substantial vacuum reservoir that kept the head light lids in the up position when the light were off and the door locks actuating with the engine off. Only a very few of that model seemed to fail. Cadillac division always seemed inclined to fuss around with vacuum actuated windshield wipers, windshield washers, automatic level control compressors, vacuum actuated door locks, and any number of devices that would lock you in, out, or fail to perform under pressure (such as going up a hill with the windshield wipers stopped for lack of sufficient manifold vacuum under acceleration). The tin can reservoir was prone to metal fatigue under normal use, thus creating a manifold vacuum leak. Ugh.
Happy day, James
Quote from: rajeevx7 on January 14, 2019, 06:37:47 PM
I’m not sure what you budgeted for this resto, but I recommend fuel injecting everything! If you are straying from all strict oem or 1966 era replications at all AND can budget it, it’s a no brainer ;) if you are confining yourself to oem only, period correct or aren’t willing to part with the money I COMPLETELY understand that.
$1200 and fuel mapping/afr drops WAY down the ‘possible cause’ list of of future troubleshooting 8) As you can read, I can’t praise the Holley Sniper enough!
Totatly agree. Holley is amazing. EFI it all! :)
My can had rusted through at a seam. Thank God for epoxy and duct tape. Can't find one on the Internet but it will show up one day.
I got my new windshield washer nozzles packaged in an original GM package. Now it's going to be fun to get them into the housing without taking the entire mounting plate off.
It's funny sometimes you look for something on the Internet months all of a sudden there is.
I have to replace the cover on this seat belt retrctor.
Anyone know how to take it apart safely? It's not in the shop manuel or the fisher body book.
Maybe I am not understanding the question, but to replace the plastic cover it is not necessary to disassemble the belt from the retractor. Simply thread the the buckle through the slot in the cover.
35
the opening in the cover is 2 1/8 inch long.
The width of the buckle is 2 5/8 inch long. Even on a diagonal it doesn't work I tried folding the belt and slipping the bracket in diagonally it doesn't work
Hmmm, memory slipping. Don't remember having that problem on my '73, maybe it was different. Sorry for the incorrect advice. Where's Ralph Messina? I suppose you could slit the cover up the front (short) side, slide the belt in and super-glue it back together.
Seat Belt Retractors are not designed to be pulled to pieces, and reconfigured, BUT, nothing is impossible.
I have done these things BUT, one has to remember that the flat coil spring is under really high tension when even retracted, and one has to be aware of the chances of the guts flying out as the spring cover is removed.
Going that deep into the part, one has to wear gloves and skin and eye protection.
Bruce. >:D
Well I came up with a fix. I cut the threads that bound the seatbelt to the chrome insert thing.
So I swapped out the old cover, tomorrow I'll re-stitch the belt.
The seatbelt problem came out great. When I went to put them back in I noticed how filthy the car was so I spent the day cleaning up the car and the garage. Now I'm working on the seat warmers I think I got the wiring correct. I didn't have time to turn it on last night and wait to see if it actually heated up.
I learned I have to be a lot more careful working around the car since many of the leather parts that I had died I rubbed off the finish. So now I have to go touchup.
I've got to make parts of the carpet fit better. Then my next project is the heat, don't have any heat.
Well time for lunch see you guys later.
Took the lady for a ride today. Running 99%. Boy thoes breaks take getting used too if you don't drive them too long.
John--- if you're saying that drum brakes are kind of scary, I hear you. Back in the early 70's when I commuted in my '67 Eldorado, I decided to find out just how fast it would go on a limited access road one evening. I topped out at over 100 mph, and then "tested" braking at that speed--- talking serious brake fade! These heavy cars simply did not have great brakes, especially considering how quietly and comfortably they ride at illegal speeds. My '72 Eldorado with front discs was an entirely different story--- amazingly strong braking. James
Quote from: James Landi on April 08, 2019, 08:05:57 AM
John--- if you're saying that drum brakes are kind of scary, I hear you. Back in the early 70's when I commuted in my '67 Eldorado, I decided to find out just how fast it would go on a limited access road one evening. I topped out at over 100 mph, and then "tested" braking at that speed--- talking serious brake fade! These heavy cars simply did not have great brakes, especially considering how quietly and comfortably they ride at illegal speeds. My '72 Eldorado with front discs was an entirely different story--- amazingly strong braking. James
Did the same thing in my 1966 Sport Fury decades ago. Big-block, 4 barrel, dual exhaust, hot cam. Car is a 130mph+ beast . . . originally with 4-wheel MANUAL drum brakes. Long story short, car wouldn't stop until I put it in neutral and found a hill.
Found a 1973 Fury wagon with trailer tow brake package (front disc, rear ventilated drums + dual brake circuit) in a yard. It was a direct bolt-on and I didn't hesitate. Unless I had a 100-point show car, I would highly recommend doing a disc swap from a later year car that bolts up. Either that, or drive accordingly. Preferably both.
Did pretty good today. Getting used to them.
jAMES wHAT I MENT WAS IF YOUR NOT USED TO THEM YOU'LL PUT YOURSELF THRU THE WINDSHIELD AT 10 MPH
This conv. top is still giving me problems. Just can't get the window material to flatten out. I'll have to sacrivise some look for a vehicle that is road worthy. It's been in my garage for about 2 months. I'm so frustrated.
I can't afford to have a shop fix it. $1200. I replaced all the bolts for the top. I still have tires to buy. The engine is still running at say 98%. Of course i haven't touched it since i got it running right! lol.
The breaks are great now that i drive it more often. Sunny warm days. Say once a month! lol (Ohio). The next part of the project is the climate control. It's hard to believe sitting around for a couple of years would do so much damage to a car.
Can't wait for summer when i can paint the car.
Hoping to be able to put in some led lights. But there is always the problem of which works where. I replaced the bolts in the top.
So far every thing i fixed still works. Three times i took it to certified mechanics. Two of them work on my family cars. Who couldn't wait to get at it. It came back worse than before. I couldn't fix it myself, sent it out, came back worse, i fixed it. And it's still fixed.
This is not a poor mans hobby. Or a sane one's either.
Sitting here wondering about some tires I have laying around. I guess I'll ask someone on the technical forum LOL
I thought my dashboard looked pretty good until one day, I guess the sun was shining right, and I noticed some depressions and so I pulled the leather off underneath it was a plastic shell[/u it had all sorts of cracks it's funny that they didn't show through the leather before. So now I've pulled off all the leather, the plastic coating, all the foam and starting over.
I'll post pictures in a little while.
John,
It's frustrating and, at times, painful to get even minor elements of a half century old car to look and work as it should. I came to the conclusion with one of my convertibles that I would use it only when there was an appropriate weather window, when not having ac was not an issue, and then I'd shine and clean it up and enjoy it without everything perfect. Of course, taking my approach to an extreme is the following: https://www.nytimes.com/news/the-lives-they-lived/2013/12/21/james-gandolfini/
yes James it is frustrating nice pic how many cars do you have. I want to get mine all fixed up and drive it in almost any weather. it's been a month I've been trying to get the top put on. I've tried so many times I finally ruined The back window skirt so I have to get a new one which should happen just after Father's Day LOL. Nice pic of a Sopranos car.
Have fun with your car hope there is a lot of sunshine wherever you are.
Not much to say. I decided to start at the beginning and fix all the little things that I rushed through. I used to have a lot of patience, getting old I guess LOL. I should have the new rear window next week and start all over on the top. Hopefully I won't make same mistakes that I did with the first one.
I snapped two bolts off I'm not very good at removing snapped bolts. Must have watched about 10 videos on YouTube. Some of them were informative. So I'll try again.
Can't wait to get all this done and paint the car.
"Patience and fortitude will conquer all things." I think there's and intellectual and spiritual growth process that occurs when you set yourself to a task and, over time, master all of the great and subtle challenges. At the end of the process, I'd like to think we're all better people for having the discipline of working through each challenge. The reward is not only a restored car, but more important, a renewed sense of self worth. James
There is no doubt in my mind that these cars have been put in my life for my spiritual growth
Greg Surfas
Words to live by.
Still waiting on the die to finish a door panel and the dashboard.
I'm having a problem with the front seats they are rubbing against the side door panel. I had covered them in leather, originally they were painted. So on the passenger seat I took the leather off and I'll be repainting it. But after I took the leather off and put the panel back on it was still rubbing against the decorative frame on the back rest. The front seat is as far left as it can go. I am hoping the drivers seat doesn't have the same problem.
I'm at a loss, I don't know what to do.
Setting up my winter tent in the garage. Surrounds the whole car and i can have heat inside it. Now i can get back to working on the heat.
Got an estimate to put the top on for $1300 and i supply the parts. Sounded very high but when he explained the procedure it seemed fair.
Many years ago, I had the convertible replaced on my 1961--- he gave me the estimate in writing, and I had him add a line about "satisfaction guaranteed." I am almost certain, as I recall this fiasco, that he had to do it FOUR times...Can't recall the order of the failed attempts, but I vividly recall the following: one attempt the material was slightly crooked, another attempt involved a top that was too large, so the windows needed to be opened to get in, another attempt, and the top would not lock because it was tootight. I think he finally got it right on the fourth try. Just a cautionary tale
]Points good to know. Thanks James.
received the remanufactured part for the cruise control (gear rack) last week. I just have to fit the cable to the gear rack. But first I have to find out the proper orientation in the bend of the wire.
was adjusting the accelerator rod and some how dislodged the accelerator pump. Had to pull the top of the carb and reset it. Hope i did it right. I was so careful with putting the parts in a tray. When i went to screw the top down i was missing 2 bolts. grrr luckily i had an extra carb.
Still working on the interior. Just have to paint the dashboard.
Getting the rims and break drums sand blasted and then paint and new 2" white wall tires.
Hi John, speaking for myself, and one who follows your posting, I always look forward to pictures. Happy day, James
I'll do that this week.
So all the leather is dyed. I only have to paint the dash board black. And install the carpets properly.
I dropped off the rims today for sandblasting. They said about a week. Then i'll paint and have new tires put on it. The top is next.
Looks good!
Thanks Brice
Here is my new tires. Sandblasted rims balanced (all weights on inside of tire) and installed.
What a job getting 5 of these tires in a new ford fusion.
Well screwed up again. I went to clean up the surfaces of the climate control rotery valves. Had to drill out a rivet then drill and tap for a bolt to replace the rivet Drilling went fine but the tap broke in the bushing. So now i have to figure a way to bolt, i guess, the halves together, tight enough to seal but loose enough to swivel.
Engine went crazy again. Runs smooth next week, Doing no work runs slightly rough.
Is there some thing that automatically adjusts for humidity?
Re webbed seat belts. Looks great.
Re routed vacuum system got some heat.
Supposed to have decent weather next week. Will try to get top replaced. Oh wait can't drive in ohio :-[
New tires feel great on the road.
This item Krylon K02421007 Fusion for Plastic Spray Paint, Satin BlackAm painting the plastic dash board. Gold to black. I know i need to prepare the surface - with what?
Do i need to prime? I'm thinking a matte black finish and a coat of semi gloss urathane top coat.
I want to be very careful not to fill in the grain.
Any recommendations on type of prep and paints?
According to The Spruce? "This item Krylon K02421007 Fusion for Plastic Spray Paint, Satin Black is the best paint for plastic.The formula is designed to avoid the need for a plastic paint primer or sanding so there is no wasted time or money spent on prepping the item. " $20 per can.
If i used this i think i should still use some kind of urathane or ? for scratch protection.
Quote from: spolij on March 31, 2020, 12:06:46 PM
This item Krylon K02421007 Fusion for Plastic Spray Paint, Satin BlackAm painting the plastic dash board. Gold to black. I know i need to prepare the surface - with what?
Do i need to prime? I'm thinking a matte black finish and a coat of semi gloss urathane top coat.
I want to be very careful not to fill in the grain.
Any recommendations on type of prep and paints?
According to The Spruce? "This item Krylon K02421007 Fusion for Plastic Spray Paint, Satin Black is the best paint for plastic.The formula is designed to avoid the need for a plastic paint primer or sanding so there is no wasted time or money spent on prepping the item. "
I use SEM vinyl and plastic dye for all of my interior projects. I have dyed virtually every part of a car with it and almost never have issues. I have even dyed steering wheels and manual shift knobs with no problems. The parts must be spotlessly clean and degreased. For extra dirty parts, I have used a Magic Eraser dipped in lacquer thinner but that's on the extreme. Most parts only need a good scrubbing with Dawn dish detergent and a good rinse. SEM does make an adhesion promoter for extra soft or super flexible materials but it's rarely needed.
Mitchell I've dyed the leather in my car so i have an air brush & compressor.
How do you apply yours? Brush wipe areosol spray? Do you cover with some kind of urathane for protection? On the smooth surface of the steering wheel do you sand first?
On the end of my shift handle and blinker is what looks like a leather plug does that come off?
I never knew ther were so many bolts holding the dashboard in! :(
Quote from: spolij on March 31, 2020, 01:48:38 PM
Mitchell I've dyed the leather in my car so i have an air brush & compressor.
How do you apply yours? Brush wipe areosol spray? Do you cover with some kind of urathane for protection? On the smooth surface of the steering wheel do you sand first?
On the end of my shift handle and blinker is what looks like a leather plug does that come off?
For more "standard" colors, the SEM dye comes in aerosol cans. For custom mixes like what I'm using for the Cranberry colored parts of my car, I spray it either with a refillable aerosol bottle or a small detail gun. I then top coat it with a SEM aerosol clear in the sheen that I'm trying to achieve. For a hard plastic steering wheel, I would scuff it lightly to remove any gloss, put down the color base coat and then use a 2k catalyzed clearcoat for durability. On my shift handle, I removed the outer and inner vinyl pieces (they were molded on) and dyed them individually. The turn signal would not come apart so I masked it and dyed it like that. Word of warning on the turn signal: the plastic for the outer housing seems to be acrylic so it is VERY reactive to the solvents in any kind of paint or dye. Apply the dye in very, very light coats and let it cure completely between coats or the plastic will crack. Alternatively, you could use a water based primer first and then dye it.
I agree with Mithell on the SEM. I used it on the dash and all surrounding vinyl of my 68 and it works great. SEM maintains excellent color consistency from batch to batch, and year to year. It has been several years since I initially dyed it, and recently I had to buy a new can and do a touch up. The touch up matched perfectly.
I looked on the SEM website. I couldn't find any thing that said dye.
I've been experimenting with doing the dash board in leather.
After removing 30 or so nuts and bolts i realized all i had to do was remove 5 or 6 and the dash came out structural frame and all, GRRRR :-\
I've decided to do the dash, steering wheel, column etc in black leather. The bottom two pic's are a sample for me to practice on. You tube showed a procedure of wetting the leather in a solution so it stretches better. Then the video lost me. Other video's show gluing a section at a time. they didn't say what glue to use. I think contact is not good. Need a little more time to work on the bends and curves. Yet it has to set up within a few minutes.
I took out everything was I needed to. And I still can't get this horn button/blinker assembly out. It's a tilt telescoping unit.
I tried pulling on it with needle nose pliers and it moves but also the blinker shift rod moves. So I'm thinking it's attached somewhere. I can't get the housing off because the three shift rods go through the housing and I can't find out where the housing is attached.
The ends of the blinker and gear selector come off. There's a large button top stud inside holding the plastic part. Apply a lttle heat and gently pry it off .
Do you mean this?
The tilt lever on my 68 tilt column was threaded on the tilt mechanism. IIRC the turn signal lever also. They both unscrew. The collar is a press fit over the column itself. I used a slide puller to pull off the housing from the column. That is why the housing is rolled at the top. You do not have to take the buttons off. They are so old, if you get them off without them breaking, they will be so distorted they won't fit properly again. Good luck. Stay safe and go slow.
Ciao,
Mario Caimotto
Yes
Thanks Ralph and Mario. The two lever's unscrewed. I never even thought of that. I don't have a puller for that and the local stores don't either. So i'm going to wrap it in the car.
thanks again
Caio
Practice pieces . Covering the steering wheel in leather. Waiting for a needle for leather.
Covering dash in leather.
making a new button
So here it is over a year later and i'm finally updating. Every thing is working now except the climate control. Summer will bring a new top. The car is dissasembled ready for cleaning, minor body work and then paint.
Here it is over a year and a half and i'm finally updating. Everything works now except the climate control. Spring will bring a new top.
Center button