Hello all,
my Name is Jörg, i'm 55 years old and i'm from Germany.
I'm restoring a 73 ’Cadillac Eldorado Convertible.
I bought the car in January and will give it a German registration in mid-May.
All important work is done. Now the newly painted body fillers will be installed.
And on May 15th come the newly covered seats.
In winter I will replace the window lift motors of the front doors, they are having a hard time. I will have one or the other question and hope you can help me.
Best regards Jörg
current status:
A beautiful car and lovely, befitting color. REgarding your window lift motors, I have had much success reviving the speed and ease of the window lifts by simply lubricating the mechanism. Over a 4 1/2 decade period, the original grease is gone, and so there's so much friction against the sliding components that the lift motors can't over come the friction, and since they are electrically overload protected, they cycle off, then the electrical thermal breaker cycles back on. If you can remove the door panels, you'll gain access to the majority of the parts, and then apply oil and then grease--that will likely get those windows moving again. Hope this helps, James
Agree. I'm certain all you need to do is clean off the old grease and re-lubricate.
Hello James, Hello hornetball,
thank you for your information.
Is there a guide on how to remove the panels?
Best regards
Jörg
Quote from: Joerg on May 06, 2020, 09:50:26 AM
Hello James, Hello hornetball,
thank you for your information.
Is there a guide on how to remove the panels?
Best regards
Jörg
For the doors, start by removing the stainless steel molding on the upper panel by removing the screw on the front edge and then slide the molding rearward. Next, unscrew the door lock knob and then remove the 4 or 5 screws that were covered up by the stainless steel molding. You can now lift up on the upper panel and remove it from the door and unplug the wiper controls. For the lower panel, remove the screw that holds the lock and window switches and pull the assembly forward to unhook it from the panel. disconnect the wiring from the switches and on the drivers side, loosen the set screw that retains the mirror control. Next, remove the two screws that hold the plastic door handle cup and remove the cup. On the passenger side, remove the two screws that hold the rear handle cup and remove that cup also. Using a trim clip tool or trim clip separator pliers, go around the sides and bottom of the panel and pop out all 9 push in clips. Be very careful as the panel is cardboard and can easily be damaged when popping out the clips. With the clips removed, unhook the light electrical plug. With the panels off the door, now you can remove the sound deadener by removing the two large retainers at the top edge of the panel. This piece will be very fragile so be careful with it. Lastly, there is a paper water shield that is "glue" on with butyl adhesive. With that removed, you can now access all the window internals.
For the rear windows, remove the lower seat cushion by pushing inward on the lower front edge of the seat and lifting upward. The retainer is about 12 inches from the edge of the seat on both sides. Next, remove the two bolts that hold the outboard seatbelt retractors. Now lift up on the rear seat to disengage it from the three upper retainer and carefully tilt it forward so you can remove the two screws that retain the tail light fiber optic indicator housing. Next, remove the lens from the courtesy light on the front edge of the lower side panel and then remove the lens housing. Behind the housing is a screw that holds the panel to the car. On the rear edge of the panel there will be another screw and there will be a third one on the front lower corner of the carpeted area. Open the ash tray door and remove the screw that retains the assembly. Lift up on the front edge and slide the assembly forward and out. Disconnect the wiring and then you can pull the entire lower panel out and off the car. For the upper panel, remove the three screws that were under the lower panel lip and the screw that is on the upper rear edge of the panel. There is one final screw that is on the front upper corner that is accessed from the door jam area. The screw goes though a piece of weather stripping and through the upper panel. With all the screws out, you can now lift up on the upper panel and remove it. There will be a piece of sound deadener glued in place that will have to be pealed off and under that is a metal access panel with 5 screws in it. Remove that panel and you will have access to the window mechanisms.
Hello Michael,
thank you very much for these instructions.
They help me!
Best regards
Jörg
Hi, its me again.
The windows are working like new. As you said, just cleaned and new grease...
I also noticed that the dashboard lighting has no function.
I don't think all light bulbs are broken.
Do you have an idea?
Thanks for helping me!
Best regards
Jörg
The dashboard lights could be the result of a failed headlight switch.
There is a rheostat that operates as you turn the light switch knob, and goes from dark to bright. Many of these have broken over the years, as it is a coil set in a "china" housing, and a lever that is moved by the switch, turns, and rides on the coil, and when it gets to the end of its' turn, the lever runs ober another terminal, and lights up the interior cabin lights.
Plus, there is a small fuse attached to the light switch to protect the dash lights.
Bruce. >:D
Hi Bruce,
thanks for answer, so i will first check the fuse.
Best regards
Jörg
Hi,
update: New fuse and the dash light works.
Thanks and best regards
Jörg
Little update:
Final works next week Monday and Thursday.
And then the German registration.
Have a nice sunday.
Very, very nice... how does the car run? We've noticed over the years that a Cadillac will provide transportation, but some of the sophisticated engineering features fail over the decades. Of special consideration is the automatic level control with compressed air shock absorbers in the rear end. If the system fails, the car will not ride high enough, and the ride quality is sacrificed. Tells us more about your car... perhaps we can provide additional information. Happy day, James
Hello James,
thanks for your post.
Here some information about the Cadillac:
The car comes from Arizona and remained in one family from 1973 to 2019.
From 1993 to 2018 the car was not registered and stored dry.
It was reactivated in 2018.
All seals, brakes, bearings and bushings have been newly installed.
So also the springs and the shock absorbers.
New carburetor, engine and transmission service.
The car drives very nicely and straight.
Nothing rattles or rumbles.
All technical facilities work.
Original paint, not restored and nothing welded.
A little surface rust on the underbody, otherwise no rust.
Some minor damage to the paint, everything else perfect.
I had a new top fitted and the seats were reupholstered and covered. With genuine leather of good quality.
There are many bills and documents that show that the car has an original 24,500 miles on it.
Best regards
Jörg
Here is a little update from yesterday.
The seats are back in the car:
BR Jörg
Thanks so much for the interior pictures--wow- you've made the interior of t brilliantly beautiful, and it shows so well, especially with the contrasting "piping" as trim for the leather soft goods. Now, we can all hope that you and those you love will enjoy this magnificent car that you've revived so elegantly and lavishly. Happy day, and be of good cheer, James
Hello James,
Thank you for your response.
Tomorrow is the last big hurdle:
The German technical vehicle inspection.
If it is successful, I can register the car.
Best regards
Jörg
Throughout many states in America, a car that is 20 - 25 years old (depending on the state), is exempt from mechanical state inspections. The state governments generally mandate that these cars be used only occasionally and for "show" purposes;however, it's not uncommon to see "Antique Plates" on an old car that is used as a daily driver. Will your Cadillac need to conform to technical requirements on an annual basis? James
Jörg
you are doing a great job here. Congratulation :)
Question: where did you get the new front floor mats? I have a 76 Eldorado Bicentennial, so our interiors are matching now but my mats don't look that nice.
Kind regards from near Stuttgart
Peter
Looks great! These are such wonderful cars. Took Janice's for a little cruise on Monday after a full weekend of instructing at the race track in caged race cars. I was sore. The experience of driving the Eldo was sublime, like riding in a silent cloud.
Best of luck with the inspection.
BTW, I bought similar floor mats through Rock Auto. They are made by Auto Custom Carpets, Inc. in Anniston Alabama and are really nice quality. I like the embroidered logos. Here's a link to the manufacturer's page:
https://www.accmats.com/commerce/1973/Cadillac/Eldorado/Floor%20Mat/11319/
Quote from: James Landi on May 27, 2020, 07:43:39 PM
Throughout many states in America, a car that is 20 - 25 years old (depending on the state), is exempt from mechanical state inspections. The state governments generally mandate that these cars be used only occasionally and for "show" purposes;however, it's not uncommon to see "Antique Plates" on an old car that is used as a daily driver. Will your Cadillac need to conform to technical requirements on an annual basis? James
Hi James,
in Germany a car, older then 30 years, becomes a "antique plate". In Germany this plate calls "H-Kennzeichen=, H for Historical.
A vehicle imported from the USA must be converted to German standards (e.g. the lighting)
This examination is very extensive and complex and took me 2 hours.
After that I have to go by car for a technical inspection every 2 years, just like everyone else.
I can use the car as daily driver.
BR
Jörg
Quote from: winger888 on May 28, 2020, 03:50:17 AM
Jörg
you are doing a great job here. Congratulation :)
Question: where did you get the new front floor mats? I have a 76 Eldorado Bicentennial, so our interiors are matching now but my mats don't look that nice.
Kind regards from near Stuttgart
Peter
Hello Peter,
i bought the mats here:
BR
Jörg
Quote from: Joerg on May 29, 2020, 02:27:39 AM
A vehicle imported from the USA must be converted to German standards (e.g. the lighting)
This examination is very extensive and complex and took me 2 hours.
After that I have to go by car for a technical inspection every 2 years, just like everyone else.
I can use the car as daily driver. Jörg
Does Germany have cheaper concessional registration for your older cars?
Bruce. >:D
Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) on May 29, 2020, 02:37:42 AM
Does Germany have cheaper concessional registration for your older cars?
Bruce. >:D
Hi Bruce,
yes the tax and the assurance are very cheaper.
The assurance for the Cadillac costs 62 â,¬ (69 US$) / year, the motor vehicle tax costs 190 â,¬ (211,50 US$)/ year.
Usually the tax for the Cadillac with 500 cui engine costs 1.700 â,¬ (1892 US$) / year, if you don't have a classic car status.
BR
Jörg
Quote from: hornetball on May 28, 2020, 09:28:59 AM
Looks great! These are such wonderful cars. Took Janice's for a little cruise on Monday after a full weekend of instructing at the race track in caged race cars. I was sore. The experience of driving the Eldo was sublime, like riding in a silent cloud.
Best of luck with the inspection.
BTW, I bought similar floor mats through Rock Auto. They are made by Auto Custom Carpets, Inc. in Anniston Alabama and are really nice quality. I like the embroidered logos. Here's a link to the manufacturer's page:
https://www.accmats.com/commerce/1973/Cadillac/Eldorado/Floor%20Mat/11319/
Hi,
thanks!
the technical inspection was only partially successful.
I have to renew the following parts:
4 new tires (wrong speed index),
Wheel bearing of the front axle (
would be very friendly if I could get tips and instructions) !!!,
Cuffs of the front upper ball joints (not sure if the translation is correct ...),
Exhaust system rear silencer,
Find the engine number and take a picture (
can someone tell me where to find them?)
Thanks in advance for your help and interest.
Best regards
Jörg
Thanks guys for the "Mats links" :)
@Jörg: good luck for you to get it all fixed. Sorry I cant help at this point since I am a greenhorn myself and still learning. You may try to contact or better become a member at cadillac-club.de here in Germany. Some very helpful members there.
Hi Jorge,
Ball joints do have a "service life," and would be suspect for looseness as they do wear ... I wonder about the wheel bearing... how was that detected? I believe the bearings for these cars are still available... the 1967 had one large, expensive bearing on each front axle... I believe your car has two on each side, and I think they are not excessively expensive, but someone else who has a model like yours should provide you with expert advice. Happy day, James
Quote from: Joerg on May 29, 2020, 06:54:21 AM
Hi,
thanks!
the technical inspection was only partially successful.
I have to renew the following parts:
4 new tires (wrong speed index),
Wheel bearing of the front axle (would be very friendly if I could get tips and instructions) !!!,
Cuffs of the front upper ball joints (not sure if the translation is correct ...),
Exhaust system rear silencer,
Find the engine number and take a picture (can someone tell me where to find them?)
Thanks in advance for your help and interest.
Best regards
Jörg
Front wheel bearings: They are available in the US for about $90 for each side. You also have to replace the inner and outer seals (less than $10 for both seals for each side).
To replace the front bearing set, you have to remove the knuckle assembly from the car. Remove the three seal retainer bolts from the seal retainer plate (behind the hub). Next, remove the inner seal and press the bearing set, hub, and outer seal out of the knuckle. Cut the outer seal off of the hub assembly (for added clearance) and press the bearing off of the hub. Clean the hub and knuckle bearing surfaces. Reassembly: Grease the new bearing and bearing bore and insert the new bearing set. It should slide in without having to press it in. Insert the new outer seal. Make sure to pack the inside of the seal with grease before installing it Install the shim plate and seal retainer plate and torque the three bolts to 35 ft/lbs. Support the bearing set and knuckle and press the hub into the new bearing set. Finally, press in the new inner seal. Make sure to pack the inside with grease before installing it. Tip for installing the seal: If you save the old wheel bearing set spacer, it's the exact size to fit over the lip of the inner seal to use it as a pressing tool.
I think "cuffs of the front upper ball joints" means the rubber boots that hold the grease in. I don't see those for sale by themselves, only included with a replacement upper ball joint. You have to remove the ball joint to replace the boot anyway so you should just replace the joint. They are available in the US for $40 per side.
To replace them, you have to cut the rivets off of the existing ball joint assembly and the new ball joint is bolted in place. You can do this while the knuckle is off when you replace the bearings.
I'm not aware of any "engine number" on the engine anywhere.
Highly recommend purchasing a Factory Service Manual and Body Manual. They are available online as a CD.
That sounds like a good inspection. This site has info on finding the engine number:
https://www.cad500parts.com/tech/EngineIDPages.pdf
Rear/top/passenger for casting number and rear/top/driver for serial number.
Hello everybody,
Thank you for your answers, you helped me a lot!
I got all the parts here in Germany from a specialized Cadillac parts seller.
I have bought there many times. He can get almost anything, of course it comes at a price.
Both wheel bearings with seals: â,¬ 500.00
Both ball joints: â,¬ 300.00
Rear silencer: â,¬ 300.00
4 tires with white walls: â,¬ 1,000.00
Approximately: US $ 2,332.00
In the United States, the parts would be cheaper, but the high shipping costs often destroy this advantage. And it takes a long time ...
In the meantime I have already invested â,¬ 12,000 without a purchase price.
Approximately US $ 13,325
But the car is in perfect condition and worth every penny.
I love this car!
I thank you again and wish you a nice weekend!
Sincerely yours
Jörg
Quote from: James Landi on May 29, 2020, 08:18:16 AM
Hi Jorge,
Ball joints do have a "service life," and would be suspect for looseness as they do wear ... I wonder about the wheel bearing... how was that detected? I believe the bearings for these cars are still available... the 1967 had one large, expensive bearing on each front axle... I believe your car has two on each side, and I think they are not excessively expensive, but someone else who has a model like yours should provide you with expert advice. Happy day, James
Hello,
The car is raised at the front until the wheels are in the air.
Then the wheel is shaken firmly with both hands, offset 180 degrees.
Usually the wheel shouldn't move, for me it was about half a cm (0,2 inch).
Best regards
Jörg
I purchased the parts from Rock Auto, and they will probably have the ball joints.
Bearings.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/cadillac,1972,eldorado,8.2l+500cid+v8,1025862,brake+&+wheel+hub,wheel+bearing,1672
Seals.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/cadillac,1972,eldorado,8.2l+500cid+v8,1025862,brake+&+wheel+hub,wheel+seal,1860
The bearings are sold as a set, that is two cups, two cones, and the spacer. These are special bearings, and can be easily installed.
Nothing against your Euro Supplier, but Rock Auto sells good stuff, and has a good supply to pick from.
Bruce. >:D
Hello Bruce,
thanks for the links.
If i saw the prices, i got teardrops in my eyes...
Next one, i look first by rockauto.
BR
Jörg
G'day Jörg,
Sorry I didn't read your mind, or I could have pre-empted your requirements.
One thing in this day and age with the internet, one can check out a lot before decisions are made.
Bruce. >:D
Speaking of tears, Gorge, when my 1967 Eldorado developed a bad wheel bearing following over a decade of daily driving and over 200,000 miles, I took it to a shop to have it repaired. I had owned the car for over ten years, and the buzzing wheel bearing develop in 1984. I recall telling the service manager to give me a price to replace both bearings, thinking that if one was bad, the other would fail soon. He called to tell me that the price for the single wheel bearing was $400.00. Needless to say, I had the one bearing replaced, and sold the car for several hundred dollars--- lots of tears -- lots of trouble free miles, but my beloved car was worn out! Happy day to you, James
Quote from: Joerg on May 29, 2020, 05:18:15 PM
The car is raised at the front until the wheels are in the air.
Then the wheel is shaken firmly with both hands, offset 180 degrees.
Usually the wheel shouldn't move, for me it was about half a cm (0,2 inch).
This is my standard bearing test too, but this test will also show looseness if bushings, ball joints or tie rod ends are worn. So . . . be careful. Nothing more frustrating that replacing good parts.
Quote from: hornetball on May 30, 2020, 09:49:59 AM
This is my standard bearing test too, but this test will also show looseness if bushings, ball joints or tie rod ends are worn. So . . . be careful. Nothing more frustrating that replacing good parts.
Mine too, but I am not strong enough to be able to rattle the ball joints, except for the tie rod end. ;)
I once went to a facility with my son's passenger bus for a licencing test, for the bus that is, and boy, the machine shook that vehicle so much that if nothing was suspect before the test, it sure would be afterwards.
Bruce. >:D
I saw it too.
Nothing moved except the wheels.
The diagnosis of the wheel bearings was correct in my opinion
Otherwise, only loose wheel bolts would be possible ...
Jörg
Hello all,
the car is my home now. :)
Thanks to all for your help!
BR
Jörg
Congratulations Jörg,
Looks gorgeous.
Bruce. >:D
PS. How bad were the parts that required replacing?
Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) on June 16, 2020, 08:28:26 AM
Congratulations Jörg,
Looks gorgeous.
Bruce. >:D
PS. How bad were the parts that required replacing?
Hi Bruce,
thanks you.
Both wheel bearings with seals: now: No moving.
Both ball joints: the rubbers were porous and leaking
Rear silencer: There were 3 holes, but drilled perfectly round.I suspect for the condensation. No rust!
4 tires with white walls: The "old ones" were almost new. DOT 15/2018. I was able to sell them.
BR
Jörg
Congratulations :)
Quote from: winger888 on June 16, 2020, 12:47:33 PM
Congratulations :)
Thanks Peter.
Grüße nach Backnang
Hello everybody,
I have now driven over 1000 km and almost everything works wonderfully.
For the winter I have done some work:
- Repair the antenna. It only runs in half. She drives out completely out.
- The dashboard lighting is a little too dark.
Can someone tell me if the gear indicator has lighting?
Thanks and best regards
Jörg
Quote from: Joerg on July 06, 2020, 08:24:52 AM-
The dashboard lighting is a little too dark.
Can someone tell me if the gear indicator has lighting?
The shift indicator is illuminated. As part of the instrument panel printed circuit, it uses a 194 bulb. Many years ago, I was the second owner of a low-mileage 1973 Eldorado coupe. While the instrument cluster illumination was quite bright, it always seemed that the shft indicator illumination was somewhat dim.
Charles Fares
Hello Charles,
thanks or answer.
Best regards
Jörg
I looked at the instrument cluster illumination as shown in the shop manual. It appears that the entire cluster, including the shift indicator, is illuminated with only four (4) bulbs, and those bulbs are all near the top of the cluster. This would account for the shift indicator appearing to be dimly lit or not lit. A change from 194 bulbs, rated 2 cp, to 168 bulbs, rated 3 cp, might make the shift indicator brighter.
Charles Fares
Hi all,
here a few pictures from the last weekend: family outing
A drive at weekend:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gscppNvYFJI
GREAT!!!
Hello everybody,
is there a guide to remove the watch?
Since mine is not working, I want to remove it in the winter and check / repair it.
Thank you for your help.
BR Jörg
I believe the dashboard needs to be removed ....
I prefer to drive with a watch that doesn't work. ;)
Quote from: Joerg on August 31, 2020, 07:44:27 AM
Hello everybody,
is there a guide to remove the watch?
Since mine is not working, I want to remove it in the winter and check / repair it.
Thank you for your help.
BR Jörg
Hi
I think 73 is same dash as in 71. You need to remove the two air outlets and then you can open two screws inside eaach outlets, and then you can pull the center piece out with the clock. Watch out for wires!
Hello Matti,
thanks for answer!
BR
Jörg