Had a -53 sedan for 15 years that I did practically nothing to, drove and loved but always wanted a convertible of the same model.
When found this for sale in 2017 Kongsvinger, Norway (400 miles from me) I guessed this was the opportunity given, now or never. Sold my beloved -53 too cheap but fast!. and took the first trip to see that there was a car looking a bit like the one on the pics. Looking with a critical eye wasn't gonna happen, my mind was allready set, yes and it was dark and almost not possible to get to its storage place among lots of other nice cars and exciting things.. The "for sale" pics were honest and Per Skaare the norwegian Mr Hot Rod seemed to be a really nice guy. Took maybe another 6 months before got it home and had another project (Volvo 121) to finish before starting whatsoever. Pulled it out from storage and into the shop oct 2019 and started to make some plans. My usual plan is normally to do as little as possible and keep as much as possible, was sticking to it for at least a while. When starting this thread I'm about 16 months in the making and will post pics from the start until Im ready with the car, fed up with posting or dead from a virus maybe. My name is Johan and I live in that socialist country Sweden you know.
I'm 50 years old and have as long as I remember been interested in old american cars and motorcycles.
Pics I got pre buying
Pick up 2017
it's gotta be good!! !951 caddy convertible rage!! I know you're happy...big smile..in your new ride...surrounded by sunshine snow, I'm finishing my '51 cad convertible project, have extra parts left over, will also be smiling soon! Good Luck
Ray Coronado Portland, Oregon USA
Quote from: perico on February 13, 2021, 04:02:17 PM
it's gotta be good!! !951 caddy convertible rage!! I know you're happy...big smile..in your new ride...surrounded by sunshine snow, I'm finishing my '51 cad convertible project, have extra parts left over, will also be smiling soon! Good Luck
Ray Coronado Portland, Oregon USA
Thanks and good luck you too! Yes I'm trying to enjoy the process rather than completing the project, many hours done and many more to come.
Oct -19 got it inside the shop, closer inspection and first cut, point of no return, only look forward in small pictures.
Started with left quarter believing its the worst, cause its gone.
Nice car and a great project!
Quote from: novetti on February 14, 2021, 06:29:20 PM
Nice car and a great project!
Thanks, we'll see were it ends, I intend to do most of it myself anyway, wont let anybody else take part of the fun!.
Right now building a v8 fixture for boring the engine block. And maybe some other blocks too, but this was the one got it made.
Left quarter puzzle, dec -19
Wow...great work.
Have you used a bead roller to press those details? They look spot on.
Cheers
Quote from: novetti on February 16, 2021, 06:58:12 PM
Wow...great work.
Have you used a bead roller to press those details? They look spot on.
Cheers
Thanks, i used this home made tool with an air chisel, and after that I got me a bead roller ;D.
But for this particular task the hand fabbed tool was perfect!
Love your handiwork, and your bench.
Bruce. >:D
Cutting right side rear (couldn't be more wrong about this side being better!) Jan -20
Had to temporary remove a large panel to reach the whole disaster.
Building right side Feb-May -20
Quote from: perico on February 13, 2021, 04:02:17 PM
it's gotta be good!! !951 caddy convertible rage!! I know you're happy...big smile..in your new ride...surrounded by sunshine snow, I'm finishing my '51 cad convertible project, have extra parts left over, will also be smiling soon! Good Luck
Ray Coronado Portland, Oregon USA
Any pics of your car? What extra parts do you have left over?
/ Johan
Finishing both sides and trunk, june-november -20
This is not a hot rod forum, I get that.
Offy has made some beautiful intakes and I think this Caddy will be happy having one.
Cutting and finishing floor Nov-Dec -20. Trunk floor was surprisingly solid, just brushed and some loctite 7500 rust converter before the epoxy primer, really dont know if the rust converter do any good but now it's there anyway.
So much rot to deal with, but it’s coming along great! Can’t wait to see the rest of the progression
I like what you are doing here..great fabrication!
Cheers,Pat
Quote from: Eldovert on March 14, 2021, 01:11:09 AM
I like what you are doing here..great fabrication!
Cheers,Pat
Thanks, wouldn't say great but pretty ok. You just have to level the hours vs the result.
Quote from: dogbergs on March 15, 2021, 02:07:03 PM
Quote from: Leary75 on March 13, 2021, 05:05:26 PM
So much rot to deal with, but it
Not so good at this though, trying to appreciate the kind words from you guys but having a hard time!..
Thanks / Johan
To choose color can really bother for quite a while, which would you pick? Original is Tucson beige and I don't really get the feel for it?
After months of headache i came up with something!. Not your ordinary Cadillac color I guess, had to paint it on something with a little size to see, so the trunk lid got painted and actually I think the look suits me.
It's truly a lovely color--- very rich. Some additional thoughts-- dark (rich) colors absorb sun generated heat, so dark exterior colors will be hot to the touch. ALso, keep this factor of heat absorption when deciding on upholstery colors. I suspect that you'll use your convertible on "occasion," so dark colors on a cool day, with the top down are a plus.
Your work is terrific and enjoyable to follow. Thank you, James
Quote from: James Landi on March 26, 2021, 08:23:52 AM
It's truly a lovely color--- very rich. Some additional thoughts-- dark (rich) colors absorb sun generated heat, so dark exterior colors will be hot to the touch. ALso, keep this factor of heat absorption when deciding on upholstery colors. I suspect that you'll use your convertible on "occasion," so dark colors on a cool day, with the top down are a plus.
Your work is terrific and enjoyable to follow. Thank you, James
It will be a black canvas top, black leather sofas, where I live you can't just absorb too much heat.
Thank you very much for encouraging words and it feels really good with positive reactions when swimming in deep waters like this. I mean when my sister says it looks Fantastic!. And I know she's really good with colors, but there is a slight chance of just being kind and not give me any more headache about colors.
Thank you James
/ Johan
The red interior color (earlier post) was just that it allready had some of that and was not sure about the exterior color at the time.
It's been a bit quiet over in this part of the shop for a while, but now I heard the rebuild kit from Terrill Machine, Texas at least was in Sweden, so soon maybe!. The sad part is I have to go away for "real work"a couple of months so the progress will slow down a bit.
I fixed the "hot tub station" for this project and it's been used 24-7 since it got there, most valueable.
It's only the first step functioning yet, with just alkaline degreasing and water at 122 f ,it sure does the work while you're doing other stuff.. The second step is a bit more evil (Strip-all) and gets the rust too but with that one it's a no-no with aluminum and surface treated steel. The first step takes away paint surprisingly well too so I've only used that for now.
Restoring front suspension. Left side spindle support was worn and needed od thread, metric 35 fine thread was in the drawer and closest possible od, have to make a new bushing with 7/8-11 inside and that tap I had to ebay from uk but it soon will be here. Feels good to start put things together again, a more "rewarding" part of the build.
This one was truly needed, applying some heat too, sat much harder than expected.
Very nice puller.
To make it easier, once you have tightened the bolt up, and it still doesn't move, give it a tap with a hammer.
Bruce. >:D
Thank you Bruce, it had some of that too!..
I decided quite early not to do frame off, the fastening points were okay, some got special care, but okay.
The body's been layed down once and so it will be. So after many hours of scraping, brushing, crying, laughing hysterically it finally had some body paint. I'm not much for shiny under, like to give my cars some oil shower underneath for rust protection sometimes.
Found out last night that the wife's been going behind my back with one of my best friends the last couple of weeks.
This was a good start for a post in restoration corner?
Yes, my friend is an artist in everything he does, excellent guitar player and amazingly gifted in every form of art.
The wife knows my weak spots and I sure turned 50 the last weekend.
Finished that knuckle support od bushing started in earlier post, the new one that didn't fit little ashamed beside.
Back on the wheels again. The upper front bump through rubbers were no good so after 70 years of duty they had to be replaced, sadly I will be satisfied if the new ones last for 10. I did cheat here, instead of putting 2-300 dollars getting original "like" ones we went for the universal ones, payed 3,90 and put them upside down, I like it!. And on top of (below?..) that some more violent customization, cut the front springs about 60mm and put 4" lowering blocks on the rear axle. I really dont know if this is going to work but if we dont try we dont know, it sure will look fantastic.
In my past life when I had a Cadillac serie 62 -53 that I drove but didn't wrench, cause didn't have to, I stupidly enough bought a "Deluxe front end suspension kit" for a LOTS of dollars, you know thinking it's an old car and has to be done etc..
This kit was now 15 years later going to be used when tearing apart suspension of the convertible -51. I'm not going to dis on any parts dealer but let's say I used the kingpin axles w bushings and probably will use the steering ball joints.
Relined the front shoes, anybody familliar with the brand Feadco? Need to get some new sealings for the wheel cylinders and for sure the master, going to reline rear too, have to say all brake parts looked really good.
Looking good so far ... really interested to see how she sits and rides on those cut springs and lowering blocks ... I'd been thinking along the same lines as my '52 looks so tall from some angles 😎👍
Thanks Macabry, got the tallest blocks there was to start with, for milling down if needed. About the coil springs it's a hope and faith thing..
/ Johan
Well you've done a great job so far, I'm sure it'll be great ... I've had good results with cutting coil springs in the past but not on a car this heavy ... trial and error 8)
Nice work on the floorpan too ... where did you find a spare wheel well ? ... mines rusted out and I can't seem to find that panel anywhere (a Shoebox ford 49/50/51 will fit but is a bit too deep)?
Keep up the good work !
Macabry, my spare wheel well was mint, believe it or not.
Thanks and keep up the good work you too!
/ Johan
For some strange reason this has been over me like a dark cloud a couple of months, its just.. I really dont.. well I'm not comfortable going under there, fragile things connected with old cables and you better have some structure what you're tearing apart...
It was not dangerous at all! Came down nice and easy and most of the cables looking really good. I will go through them and do some minor repair and cleaning. Really nice to have it all revealed and easy to work with.
Added,
Will not do full dash resto with paint and chrome at this point. One of things I thought was really badly done to the -53 sedan was interior paint job, they just wiped out the cars history with a bad paint job, can't really forget this. So to make up for someone elses mistake in another car, I just don't this time. We give it some tender care and let the history remain.
Radio is sent away for professional love and care.
I'm a great believer in tsking many cell phone pictures "lest I forget" where wires connect. Looks like great progress has been made. I remain very respectful of your fine work. James
Thank you James.
Yes, in my case maybe the most used function, for remembering and seeing things where you can't get your head.
/ Johan
Working a little on each side of the shop, prepping for sanding, primer/ filler on one side.
On the other side the first shy cut ever by my hand on this Swiss made Sip jig borer from 1958.
No, not the original 331, it's an 11 year younger brother with some improvements made along the years and some more power to give.
Still a Cadillac engine, still looking pretty the same.
Had to share one more just for the beauty of this machine.
Gathering the pieces that will go in the first round, probably will eat the wallet inside out anyway.
All but 1 side glass were broken so we go for all new there, windshield arrived at the glass shop 2 weeks ago.
Lookin at Steele Rubber for rubber products, anyone has some input? Guess there can not be so many competitors?
I guess the fender spears have been replaced sometime, seems to be stainless. Is -53 the first year of stainless spears?
And the most likely correct answer came from jmurrayent.
-51 was probably the transition year so you could get what there was.
Plan is primer/filler next week and hopefully some colour the week after that.
I'm very happy to say that game plan was held all the way. 2 weeks of work and I'm quite satisfied with the result. I've never before painted a whole car but I guess this was a good first one, with all large body panels off. Now it's only the rest to come..
Since this is a bit anarchistic resto, where anything that suits me is okay, as you already understood..
Found a bed liner that looked almost factory for my early B-body Mopars and since it was available and likeable, just went for it.
Johan,
The car looks 1000% better. Keep up the great work!
Cheers,Pat MacPhail
Thank you very much Pat, and cheers right back!
Best / Johan
Little off topic but here I got lost to the Cadillac transition models between the 40's and 50's designs.
My old sedan, lives in Finland now. My son, before almost everything.
Suitable it's reply #53.
Johan, This project is inspiring, and that color you're painting your car in is amazing, I'm really excited to see the rest of the panels when they're coated!
-Mike
Thanks Mike, I'm really happy with the color too. will assemble some on the body before start painting the other parts but pretty excited myself, tell you that!.
/ Johan
I will gladly, thankfully admit that I got some help rebuilding the old Hydra matic. Svante Eriksson, drag racing legend from the seventies with "Norrlandsjeepen" 1,2 and 3 all in different shapes, did the rebuild for me. He's a neighbor to my shop and a pro with transmissions, everything mechanical else too by the way. I used a bell from -55 and cut it some, to hopefully fit the short back 390 block and be able to reach the torus cover bolts, still waiting for the correct flywheel, so the -55 starter will fit. This is like everything else, -let's try and see if it works!.
Block is bored and honed ,030 over, washed a couple of times and ready, the thing holds me back now is thinking about balancing crank and flywheel together and still waiting for that flywheel to come sailing over the great ocean.
Started some plumbing business yesterday, was hoping to use the old factory steel pipes for hydro lectric system, but no.. Too much rust and I've only seen the outside. Will use soft copper lines instead. Top control valve was quite stuck but came out ok, only had to replace solenoid springs.
Added,
Yes, the Bitumen business had to come first.
This looks almost beyond..
Added;
It came apart without breaking anything, and thats a good sign.
But I should mention the bronze bearing came out with shaft and that created some hours..
Added II;
And it woked from dead, feelin lucky! I just recently saw what Caddy daddy asked for a repro.
Peace and TRUE democracy for the world.
Slava Ukraini.
Took a pause on the Hydro-lectric and trying to find a place for all loose ends.
Doing some kind of bending test for which and where to replace, if it bends easy without breaking it stays.
It sure has been some electricians here before me.
Got a visit from Poland yesterday, Artur Osi with friend delivered some fine work.
This is all new to me, usually not puting too much effort giving my cars the shine.
This time it just went that way, couldn't go any other way. The pieces sent were rusty, dented and pitted, it's surreal..
To give you the opposite i post a pic of the usual me, today.
The fly wheel did not have threads, so the torus cover must have and that also tells the bell cutting was a waste I guess. Balance weight is on the torus cover, so we will balance that and flywheel tightened together, and assume crank is zero. Engine 1962, Hydra-matic 1951, Bell and torus cover 1955, Fly wheel 1954. That allows a starter for 54-55.
Edit,
And again we need to go back and correct the ideas and thoughts from the past.
Was not enough room for -51 torus parts in -55 torus cover (the one w riveted nuts)
We do some threads in -51 torus cover instead. Theres "almost" not enough material for threads, we'll see about that when torqued.
Earlier bell cutting makes counter nut a posibility if wanted.
The starter issue..
I shamelessly want a mini starter, they (ALL OF THEM) list them as 54-55 starters. I have doubts.
The -54 mount brackets have centered holes, correct. There is no other brackets for -55 but they should not be centered?
When receiving e-mail from Anderson, Indiana. -with a pic from a previous owner of the original spare and antenna..
Yes, Sweden is a bit far. We will think of it for a while.
I really like the "let history remain" look planned with the interior. If it's gone or rotten, replace.
If it's just a little pitted, beaten or scratched, it's good enough.
Added
Parts for the top is being painted/sent for rechrome
I'm interested in the chrome work you had done in Poland. Is it good quality and is it cheap compared to Sweden? I'm in England and chrome plating is getting more difficult to get done with all the regulations plus it is very expensive and quality is not always good. I noticed another person from Sweden got their chrome plating in Poland.A road trip to Poland may be worth while!
Well i'm not a notorious rechromer, so my thoughts are based on few occasions.
I have only good things to say about Galvano Osinski, great service and contact.
They have many customers in Sweden so they usually offers pickup and delivery a couple times/year all over Sweden. Quality of work they've been doing for me is spotless, perfect.
About money, it costs a lot to rechrome, but mostly everything costs a bit more in Sweden, for good and for bad. Also I only know of one that does the job here.
Quote from: dogbergs on October 30, 2022, 05:39:14 AMWell i'm not a notorious rechromer, so my thoughts are based on few occasions.
I have only good things to say about Galvano Osinski, great service and contact.
They have many customers in Sweden so they usually offers pickup and delivery a couple times/year all over Sweden. Quality of work they've been doing for me is spotless, perfect.
About money, it costs a lot to rechrome, but mostly everything costs a bit more in Sweden, for good and for bad. Also I only know of one that does the job here.
Thanks I will look them up. It is a bit more difficult for me in the UK now we have left the EU, but I could fill up my modern car with the bits and take the ferry then drive there I suppose.
Started some engine assembly and realized I had 2!! oil pump repair kits for 331 but none for the 390. The only difference is axle lenght. About 1 1/4" too long.
On with the engine assembly, and yes, the old broken dip stick tube is replaced.
Added
Well people, did the bottom twice..
Found out I used the wrong rear main seal.
I dont want to talk more about that.
I wonder if it will fit under the hood.
Starting to have a list of people helping out.
Heads done by Per Karlstedt, a friend with his own head shop.
Hello,
can you say how much you spend for the rechroming?
Hi Andreas,
I wouldn't feel comfortable speaking 2 years old numbers in public regarding another mans work.
Send Artur Osi e-mail with some pics and you will at least get a between thumb and point finger. artur@galvano.pl
/ Johan
Top is down radically speaking, and the grille/front bumper that I for the last 5 years thought of as perfect drivers condition, still is but things gotten out of hand.
As mentioned earlier most top parts that once have had some chrome are sent to get some new.
Front bow had some pitting, it looked to come only from outside so the damage felt "visible". My long time friend and co-worker Stefan suggested bronze soldering instead of start fabricating very dificult pieces.
Worked very fine with good result. Front bow had some epoxi primer before top coat, everything else direct to metal urethane coat. Misc parts getting some paint.
Yes, Stefan is the one with the Harley chopper and -34 roof chop you've maybe seen in other pics.
I had a new repro water pump for 331 which I thought also will fit the 390- No. Would have required some spacing and that felt not too good. Found myself a rebuild kit from TA motor, Sweden for the 390 water pump, and did the work. Sorry for the lack of photos, was laying around for quite a while and then one day it just happened without any thoughts of showing. And yes I got myself a more suitable shop press for everyday work. The big press used for piston pins earlier post always has a special tool for other common production. About the rebuild kit, you had to resurface the core for new sealing, and turn down the impeller to match measure. Kit was bearing w axle, seal and impeller.
At least trying to make them look stock-ish.
Without having payed much (none) attention to it, long ago ordered the same year motor mounts as motor.
If i've been looking at pictures and giving it some thoughts would have ordered for vehicle year.
Still would not fit..
Got a pic of messurement (80mm) and style for the -51 mounts. Thanks to TA motor!
Comparing 331/390 crank to upper mount hole and crank to pan bottom gives pretty the same
but wider internal mount messure on 390 mount.
For a while thinking maybe 2 holes enough, but imaginary felt the hinge/torque effect and changed my mind.
Leaving hole for cushion until later.
Finally the -62 390 and factory -51 Hydra-matic is a pair. I'm sure this matter seems odd for some, sometimes I wonder myself. I've come to the conclusion there is a little hot rodder punk rocker in me that just cant follow all rules. I can tell all real restorers that the factory 331 is around, rebuilt and will follow the vehicle. I got told there were some issues, not just bolt on as for the Chevy guys, and that triggered more than frightened. Now when the pieces are together I can read the 4 year old e-mails from Gene Berck, (Transmissions by Gene) and see that he covered it all when telling I couldn't do it. I did not do exactly as he said I couldn't, but almost. Thanks Gene, you are inspiring and you know what you are talking about. Warbird1 from the HAMB has also been helpful giving me good information. If I'd start this all over again probably should use complete -55 Hydra instead but that option is still there later on, the one I got for parts only misses the govenor and sure can be rebuilt. There is still some misleading information in post 61, beware!
Well done.
Bruce. >:D
Away from home for work, having some quality time.
And now with engine mounts in place.
Not much happening in the shop, but I can see some weeks with time to spend in quite near future.
Got some Chrome pieces back, all very good except one unfortunate shipping accident with some lower grill piece.. Bummer but we'll get it done again. Front seat adjuster mechanism sent for blasting and a random pic the other day.
This is an awesome build!
Will the three deuces fit under the hood?
Thank you John, I too do belive that the car will look pretty good when cruising towards the sunset, when that day comes. Hopefully the carbs will fit under, think they will.
/ Johan
Now this was a puzzle.. But it folds down without bending/making hurtful noise. Found a machine belt that will service as tacking material. There are some screws and things that didn't get sent to the plater, I will think it just adds some colour to the picture. Both knees as picture 8 had to be rebuilt with some customization made, factory threads in castings were no good.
There's an X on one roof rail to lift cylinder piece that I can't find instructions for, feels like I've read it somewhere but don't remember, discovered too late when disassembled so no pic.. If anybody has something to add here, please feel free to do so. Pic 4 and 36.4440 upper part on drawing.
Are we back to normal again? Think the last post I did in this thread was about quarters and at least thinking of doing something with them. That post was gone, but otherwise I see nothing suspicious. Or isn't it quarters when they're bolted? Rear fenders?. I've been doing something with them now and starting to feel quite happy with the result. Got some stretch and shrink lessons by Guscha, friend and local sheet metal guy.
Thank you webmaster for bringin everything back!
Added one abstract painting to the collection, to describe issue with left quarter.
Had too much material coming outwards middle of wheel opening, cut about 5" and welded back, then a little too much material above that cured with heat shrinking, got pretty straight.
/ Johan
I were wrong, or I did not see them clearly enough?
There have been some friends telling me take it all away, ALL old paint has to go, you never know how the old reacts with the new (in this case whats hidden in it..) But I only took away the black backyard paintjob layer thinking the factory paint has been there all the time and thats good?
Obviously did not see these small spots that got a lot bigger when talking dirty to them. Trunk lid was the first piece painted 3 years ago and that was more of a color test than a finished part, so not so much extra work there. Body without panels already done can bring some problems later on, some surfaces had factory paint still, we'll see what happens, thats for sure. All remaining panels will be sanded from paint, epoxy primer bottom, rust never sleeps.
I KNOW I've read about this earlier and I KNOW I've mentioned it to the chrome guys.
Reason did not check properly when returned I really don't know at all, and that doesn't matter too much either. Seems like a problem hard to deal with, another restorer here in Sweden eventually reminded me to really check the frames out.
This is not to call somebody out doing a bad job, we just have to be aware of the risks with the hard parts. Of all my window frames seems like this is the only one gone bad, not the end of the world.
If I don't find another I will try to fabricate one.
Pot metal is rather soft, of course chrome is harder...I would try to correct the shape; the chrome may crack, but the pot metal will survive.
Yes Roger, will sure give it a try.
You automatically goes to worst case scenario when these kinds of problems occures. If i put in oven before, how much heat do you think would be ok?
I know that open flame is forbidden with pot metal, but some careful oven pre heat maybe helps?
Thanks/ Johan
If the part would be mine, I would try to correct it while cold. It was bent while cold so cold it will be to correct it! Apply the force as near as possible from the corner or attach two pieces of wood at the vertical channel and be careful...From past experiences, the pot metal is forgiving and should not break easily. However, age is never good on such metal.
I guess it went pretty well.
Left it under the final pressure for 2 weeks away for work. First and last pic without pressure.
Happy new year to everyone!
Me having a hard time to really focus on 1 thing til it's done, but I guess thats the benefits (pos and neg..) of not having any deadlines
Got the car back on the lift looking at the custom parts of this build. Will have to fabricate adapter for mini starter and the fly wheel cover will have to share fasteners with the starter, so we'll try to be creative here. Please feel free to criticize me.
Some paint and I think we're done for now. Will be some kind of rubber or sheet metal covering under side. Did not get pic of turning inside, after cutting.
Added,
And on the last pic theres clearance for torus cover bolt heads too, he he..
Well I've kept the focus on getting it started, that will be a milestone.
Not so much left keeps me from trying.
Only,
12v.
Fuel.
Trans oil and drive shaft in place.
Cooling fluid, hoses and clamps.
At least some kind of short exhaust pipes.
Johan,
Those three carburetors would intimidate me. When your car is idling, are two entirely shut down? If so, does the one in the middle serve for fuel/air in most throttle positions? Is the mechanical linkage set up in such a way that they, all three, snap into action at full throttle or are two vacuum actuated?
Yes James, mechanically progressive. Only the middle from zero.
I bought them like this, really dont know anything, but they appears to be rebuilt and set up for at least something. I will not mention another brand name here, but there is a pic so to speak.
Thanks for the pictures and explanation. They look very nice atop As I've "progressed" from firey youth(fulness) through middle age, and now am an old geezer, I can't seem to stop myself from personally relating to your fine old car and its 5000 moving parts and just how stressed they'll potentially be if those three carburetors were to open up!
Exhausting, think it will be 2" dual.
What is the stock dimension for -62?
Not doing it all now, only for starting.
Enjoying this thread as I'm learning more about my 50 in the process. Those frames are pretty robust thats for sure!
Robust, yes Tim!. Mine was already brutally torched a bigger hole in for dual I guess. The drivers side normally does not have space for exhaust through frame before -53 i guess. You can spot the extra large hole by the trans linkage. Think it will still hold up? :)
According to instruction new pinion sealing should be used with factory outer sealing. Precautions when taking apart for saving the outer part. I never got how it was meant.
I made a new one.
Nice when I had mine up in the air it appears that whomever restored my 50 did exactly that. Luckily since it was probably done in the 2000s it should be solid for decades to come.
The added length of drive train, had to be cut somewhere. There are a few ways to do it, this is one of them.
It gets straight and no messing with balance weights. There is a 4" piece of pipe turned to perfect fit inside.
Will have it tig welded. All new joints.
Some clearance for oil filter on the passenger side, other than that looking quite symmetrical. This with a small end pipe will be enough for starting.
Added,
Copied part for exhaust hanger on the driver side.
The belt earlier used as tacking material keeps on giving.
Painted and done for now.
Why do it only once when you can go twice or maybe even triple the joy?
My newly rebuilt water pump wanted more from me, i don't know what, but more!
It had some drip e d drop from leakage hole and only thing I could think of was not having surfaces lubed with grease when assembling?
We will try with new seal and old stock impeller because the after market sheet metal impeller could not come off with some dignity, it just had to be a .....
But now with things apart again we can also turn the hub with it sitting on the axle.
No more wobbling pulley.
Bronze bushing was for the first seal, the second one is 5/8 instead of 3/4 so no space for bushing.
The two last added pics are for closing down this post.
VICTORY!!
Quote from: dogbergs on February 11, 2025, 07:18:20 AMWell I've kept the focus on getting it started, that will be a milestone.
Not so much left keeps me from trying.
Only,
12v. done!
Fuel. done!
Trans oil and drive shaft in place. done!
Cooling fluid, hoses and clamps. done!
At least some kind of short exhaust pipes. done!
Didn't sound like 2,500 RPM to me. Plus, has to be maintained for no less than 15 minutes. Preferably 1/2 Hour.
Plus, blipping the throttle is not good either.
To bed the Cam and Lifters in is important, and at such low revs, don't be shocked if there is problems later on.
The Cam Lobe lubrication is from the oil splashing off the Big Ends, and too slow a rotation is not sufficient for proper lubrication.
Lastly, seeing as the car is not in a driveable condition, you will not be able to Bed the Rings in either as pressure needs to be put on the pistons, and this cannot be done unless driving, or on a Dyno.
Plus, the engine has to be hot enough to heat up EVERYTHING, including the Gaskets, so that they will correctly seal. And Stick. Especially the Head Gaskets.
Bruce. >:D
Thanks Bruce.
It had about 20 minutes and even if I cant say exactly the rpms it was sure above the 2' and some more.
The throttle action in video was the only for the whole 20 minutes.
I would say it was hot all through..
Best / Johan
Got to be over 2,500 rpm.
One thing I recommend when running in the Cam, is that the owner not be present as they seem to get really scared when the engine is "screaming" up that high, for so long. Especially if the exhaust is loud.
The reason I don't like bedding in the Cam, and leaving the rest until the car is completed, is that I did that with a '59 Thunderbird I built, and when we got down to re-firing up the engine to bed the rings in, following the completion of the car, the head gaskets leaked coolant into the sump.
When I undid the head bolts to remove the heads, they simply fell off, as the Head Gaskets hadn't done their internal sealing and gluing to the Head and Cylinder surfaces. I was not amused.
As an aside, I remember a story I heard regarding Chevrolet and their car building. If the engine designed for the car was not installed after a month of being built, that engine was scrapped, simply because they are started up when built, then not fired up again till the completed car rolls off the assembly line.
Bruce. >:D
Yes, i've heard similar regarding the last part you wrote and have had that in mind. Been rotating some every now and then. Added a bottle of TB zinc plus when starting up, already using zinc plus racing oil.
Also used Clevite assembly lube on cam and lifters.
The time between building and starting up have bothered me some but thats simply how it became, with life and everything..
I appreciate your concern Bruce👍
Found some old photos in work shop computer, good to spread them around.
At least you had some good remaining pieces of the trim; a good help for the upholsterer!
Yes Roger,
CH Trim Shop, Bodafors has done the upholstery work. I still have not seen the result myself but have no doubts. There is kind of an agreement that they will do the top too.