So Im driving the other day, Im not overheating, but my gauge is always reading at the 1/4 mark, when it starts slowly going up to 3/4 mark. So I went home changed the sensor and it did the same thing, so now it must be the gauge. I went out and bought a new gauge and set it up temporarily in engine compartment, I bought 2 both the same. readings on both were 230-240 F. Is that not too hot. Also would the original sensor in the head be compatible with these new gauges. Also should I look for an original guage
I would not trust the sensors to be the same between any gauges unless they specify that they are compatible. Are they 2 wire or single? If they are single wire it can be tricky to get the right combination of sealer and contact.
I would not think its likely that you are running 230-240 without boiling or is this what you are reading not long after shutting down? For heat soak that doesn't seem out of line. Where are you installing these sensors? They need to be in the flow so you can't just install T fittings like you can with something like a oil pressure switch.
So the new gauge is 3 wire, 1 ground 1 power and one to the sender which is in the head the original sender.
Water pump. My 59 did that when the pump started to fail.
So with car idling in driveway and out temp is 40F, I checked engine with thermo gun. Reads as follows, gauge reads 235F, DR head 198F, Pass head170, intake man 190 ex man 417 water pump at thermostat 182
I would say there is very little chance of a modern aftermarket gauge matching up to a factory 1960 sender. If you want to use the aftermarket gauge you should buy the recommended sender. If you want to keep the factory one also you need to find another spot for one of them or find an aftermarket one that is a metal temp vs liquid temp. Those are just a ring terminal you stick somewhere like under the tstat housing bolt. I have used that type and they read pretty close to the coolant temp.
Well doesnt matter anymore. I took her out on the highway 50mph just now and she started to bang like metal on metal, something must have broke off in the engine. Im pissed, it was running so good, shes toast now, It will start but banging sound so I shut it off, time for a rebuild.
Sorry to hear about your engine. Hopefully its something minor.
Best of luck,
Derick
Wow well the good news is the 390 is a robust engine and there's quite a lot of OEM parts out there. In fact someone is selling a 59 frame, transmission, and engine for 5k. If interested I can PM you the link.
Yes please send me the link. I have 2 1960 engines both non running and a 59 that I would sell. I figure I will take one of the 60 engines to a rebuilder thats on the pavement in my garage and while its there I will take out the blown engine in my car. Not looking forward to this.
Sadly the engine, trans and frame sold shortly after I posted that response.
I drained the oil today . Half oil half anti freeze, now I no why it blew. Ive almost got the engine out. One bolt I cant get out. Its the one trans to engine just above the starter. I tryed for 5 hrs and I cant get a socet on it, I may have to remove the right head.
I'm not familiar with the bolt that is sticking you but maybe swivel socket and a bunch of extensions? That's a pretty common method for many bell bolts.
Quote from: 60eldo on April 02, 2024, 08:32:49 PMI drained the oil today . Half oil half anti freeze, now I no why it blew.
I hope that you will be able to unscrew that bolt.
A friend of mine has a similar issue: he wanted to cosmetically refresh his engine and he found water/antifreeze into the can for the oil filter. He think that a head gasket is the culprit, but I'm not sure.
I would be interested to know if you find the issue in your own engine.
Quote from: 60eldo on April 02, 2024, 08:32:49 PMIve almost got the engine out. One bolt I cant get out. Its the one trans to engine just above the starter. I tryed for 5 hrs and I cant get a socet on it, I may have to remove the right head.
You have probably already tried this, but how about a ratchet wrench with a small pipe extension slipped over it? That should give you more room, (if height restriction is the issue). Mentioned for what its worth. Clay/Lexi
So today I did remove the pass head with exhaust manifold attached. And from the top I dont no how I did it, but I got the bolt out. What a job the hrs just to get 1 bolt out. Now soon I will lift out the motor and send it out. My guy told me about 5000 USD. But I never ask him what will he do to it. And do I get all new parts? Or just whats needed. BTW I got all the bolts out from the eng and trans, and the 4 nuts off the flywheel, whats the best way to split the eng from the trans?
When your motor is completed,
see
@Jason Edge for the correct factory coolant temperature sender for the factory gauge, part is for sale on this forum.
Bob