Evades Newton Sayer was a businessman in the early 20th century with two daughters, Laura and Roberta. Evades passed away in 1936 in Muskogee, Oklahoma. That same year, Roberta, then 41—or possibly 43 according to some sources—took over her father's business and successfully grew the already considerable family fortune.
Roberta lived in Muskogee, Oklahoma, from 1912 until her death in 1982, residing in the family mansion at 423 South 12th Street. The mansion, still standing today, was sold at auction around 20 years ago, along with its antique furniture that Roberta had collected during her travels abroad.
In 1953, Roberta, on the advice of her chauffeur, contacted Coffeen-Forster to purchase a new Cadillac Series 60 Special Fleetwood. Her chauffeur recommended equipping it with every available option at the time. The car was delivered with factory air conditioning (GM's first), an Autronic Eye (automatic headlight dimmer), automatic climate control, a radio with automatic tuning and front/rear speakers, power steering, Whitewall tires, and Eldorado-style wire wheels. All windows, including side vents, featured green-tinted safety glass (E-Z Eye glass). While the Turbo-Hydramatic 4-speed transmission was standard since 1940, vacuum-powered brake boosters unfortunately didn't become standard equipment until 1954.
Roberta adored the car but drove it very rarely. By 1982, the Cadillac had accumulated only 27,000 miles.
Roberta had no children or spouse, and her sister passed away in 1971. In her will, Roberta left her significant estate to various foundations on the East and West Coasts. But what happened to the Cadillac?
The Cadillac, along with several other items and $500,000, was bequeathed to Marjorie McSpadden, a close friend of Roberta's and her estate manager for many years. Marjorie did not drive the car herself but instead gifted it to her son, Bill, who recently turned 80.
When Bill inherited the car, its mileage was at 28,000. Roberta, whose chauffeur had passed away in the mid-1960s, attempted to drive the car herself a few times, resulting in one accident where she collided with her own garage door. The Cadillac was hastily repaired in Oklahoma, with the hood replaced by one from an earlier model (1950–1952), and the front fender and fog light were substituted with parts from a lower-tier Cadillac model. Over 40 years of ownership, Bill added just 7,000 miles to the car.
A few years ago, Bill's friend Ross Dutton, owner of "Dutton Restoration" in Hamilton, Montana, restored the front clip. He replaced the right front fender and hood with correct 1953 parts and added the proper chrome and fog lights.
Earlier this year, Bill decided to put the Cadillac up for sale.
After nearly two months of negotiations, I was able to purchase the car. Not only that, but I embarked on an incredible test drive with my eldest son, covering more than 2,000 miles of mountain roads from Montana to Houston over four days.
After such a journey, I can confidently say this car feels like it was meant for me. The history, the stories, and the sheer joy it brings make it a truly unforgettable experience.
P.S. While the 1953 Cadillacs don't have the iconic tail fins that would reach their peak in 1959, they do boast the largest bumpers ever—known as "Dagmar bumpers," reminiscent of other notable feminine curves. You can't pick one or the other; you've got to appreciate both!
Here are some pictures
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In garage. There are plenty of things to do with this car. I will keep you posted
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Beautiful car Dmitry ! It looks like it ened up in the right hands....
Nothing like a series 60 Fleetwood !
Keep us posted on the progress of "The Muskogean Phoenix"
Mike
Thanks for posting the fascinating history and the great pictures.
Before diving into the technical details, let's take a moment to explore what we know about the first owner, Roberta Sayer from Muskogee, OK.
Roberta Sayer was born on January 15, 1893, and passed away on September 28, 1982, living a long but solitary life without a husband or children. In 1982, when Roberta passed, I was just starting first grade.
Roberta received her Social Security Number in 1962. She had an older sister, Laura, who married John Arrington in 1917. However, the fact that John Arrington is absent from census records (more on that later), combined with the sisters living together until Laura's death in 1971, suggests their relationship might not have been entirely smooth.
According to official records, Laura was seven years older than Roberta, but unofficial sources indicate discrepancies in the birth years of both sisters.
In the 1900 U.S. Census, the Sayer family appears listed at the top of the page: Vade (father), Emma (mother), Roberta, and Laura. By the 1920 Census, Roberta had completed only three years of college and had no higher education.
By 1950, census records show that only the two sisters remained in the household, living alone without families. Interestingly, Laura's age was understated—officially listed as 59 instead of her actual age of 64.
Further research uncovered a ship passenger list from January 1920, showing a 27-year-old Roberta arriving in Honolulu, Hawaii. She returned to San Francisco in May 1920, as noted on another passenger list.
Several address directories from different years show varying addresses before 1912, but from 1912 onward, Roberta resided at 423 South Twelfth Street in Muskogee, Oklahoma.
Unfortunately, I have not yet uncovered more information about Roberta. If I find anything interesting, I will certainly share it.
Now, let me share a few family photos that came with the Cadillac:
Vade Sayer (father)
Roberta Sayer in her youth
Roberta Sayer in later life
Also included were documents relating to Roberta's Cadillac:
A Cadillac dealer brochure issued in Roberta's name
The dealer invoice for the car, listing prices such as $5.60 for 20 gallons of gas, $325 for wire wheels, $619.55 for air conditioning (fitted in less than 2% of 1953 Cadillacs), $53.56 for the "Autronic Eye," and $28.83 for a vacuum-driven windshield washer. The total price for the car was $6,192.87, which was fully paid—likely by check.
A note on the invoice: "Car to be ordered on Special Order – soon as possible."
Annual registration cards from 1953 to 1975, showing the car's mileage progression over the years.
Roberta's last insurance policy issued during her lifetime.
A confirmation letter from a Trust Company indicating that, per Roberta's will, the Cadillac title was transferred to Marjorie McSpadden.
More images supporting the previous post. All paperwork regarding the car is original and was given to me in a sealed envelope together with the car.
I have an appreciation for all the historical research you have done. Thank you for posting. I have done historical research on genealogy, houses, and my 1940 Lasalle. I have run across the phenomenon before of women fudging their age in the census. I learned a lot about my Lasalle that was not passed on by the previous owner. You have a lot of documents. Almost all of the information I uncovered was oral. I found some pictures of my car that were very crucial to the restoration.
How did the Sayer family make their fortune? What business were they in? How long did Roberta run the company? What happened to it?
I'm full of questions. You gave a great account of the history and I still ask more. That is why I research.
Wow! Such a fascinating story. Like, Tom, I wish to learn more about this car, Roberta and the family business. Clay/Lexi
Vade Sayer has built and owned Sayer Building in Muskogee, which was occupied for many years by Drunil Dry Goods and then was converted to a mini-mall, Shadow-Wood Mall. He also built several other houses, like 1110 Boston Ave., and the Baltimore Hotel. Also, Sayer had holdings in several parts of the country. He was a dealer in real estate, was a contractor and broker. He also operated a gold mine and an investment firm.
Sayer was a world traveller, and was generally accompanied by his daughter, Roberta.
As I mentioned, Roberta took over from her father in 1935.
Roberta owned the first electric automobile in Muskogee, and always had the most modern car of the time. She attended the early automobile shows in Wainwright.
Her collections from all over the world were regularly featured in the Hobby magazine, often with pictures on the cover. She had a special hobby room, bult on the side of her garage.
This is in brief. I can also show pictures of her house, and the history of ownership of this house.
Well, technical story about the car takes a different turn ))))
Quote from: kudims on December 17, 2024, 12:02:26 PMShe had a special hobby room, bult on the side of her garage...I can also show pictures of her house, and the history of ownership of this house.
If the Moderators permit, I would love to see pictures of her house if images show the collection on display. May not be Cadillac centric, but a close examination may reveal car hobby related stuff mixed in, hence my interest. Perhaps some early Cadillac items? Depending on the era the photographs are from, she may have been an early collector of automobilia and judging from her travels to early car shows, who knows what is in there especially with a hobby room built adjascent to the garage. We should closely scan for Cadillac related automobilia. It is also interesting to get into the mindset of these early automobile enthusiasts, especially a Cadillac lover and also that rarest of breeds, a female owner/enthusiast. Sounds very interesting. Clay/Lexi
what happened to the wheel discs? and show us some under hood pictures.
Let me mix info about the car and what was the condition of it with some limited information that I have about the first owner.
A Journey to Montana: Acquiring a Classic Cadillac
Early on the morning of June 3rd, 2023, my eldest son and I boarded a plane that took us to Missoula, Montana, by lunchtime. While we live in the southernmost part of the United States, Missoula is practically on the Canadian border to the north, sitting at an elevation of about 1,000 meters. Montana is a mountainous state with a distinct charm—think of it as the American version of the Altai region in my native country, Russia, but with better infrastructure, excellent roads, and a milder climate.
Next day, Ross Dutton, his wife, and his brother Dan picked us up. Ross drove his 1969 DeVille Convertible, while Dan brought along his 1962 Eldorado. We rode 60 miles with Ross to Hamilton, where he owns a restoration workshop.
Meeting Ross Dutton
Ross, now around 70, has been restoring Cadillacs since the mid-1990s. He also owns a massive junkyard. Interestingly, Bill McSpadden—the previous owner (Roberta's will was to handover Cadillac to Bill's mother) of our 60 Special—met Ross after moving to Florence, Montana, about 30 years ago. Bill had been transferred by ConocoPhillips from Colorado to Montana, a common practice in oil and service companies. Bill and Ross became friends, and Ross stored the Cadillac in his hangar for many years.
Last year, Bill sold his home and returned to Colorado, splitting his time between there and visiting relatives in Oklahoma. He decided it was time for the Cadillac to find a new owner and asked Ross to help find a buyer. This is how I raised over the horizon...
Inspecting the Cadillac
Upon arriving at Ross's workshop, we began inspecting the car for rust. Ross handed me a sharp screwdriver, confident the car was rust-free but prepared for any surprises. After examining the vehicle, we lifted it using two hydraulic jacks for a closer look.
I loved the car from the first sight, and there was no need to negotiate. After a quick symbolic test drive, I finalized the purchase, which involved the careful recounting of cash.
A Glimpse Into Ross's Collection
After the deal was done, Ross gave us a tour of his hangar, filled with his private collection of cars. Though they were still slightly dusty after winter storage, the vehicles were stunning—90% fully restored and 10% in original condition, showing the passage of time.
Preparing for the Journey
The next morning, we returned to Ross's place to pick up a few spare parts from his junkyard for free. By 8 a.m., I took some final photos of the Cadillac before embarking on our journey.
The Cadillac and the Road Ahead
The 60 Special's longer wheelbase and refined trim make it stand out compared to the Series 62. Its features include spoked wheels, a rear-exhaust design integrated into the bumper (later abandoned due to chrome corrosion from exhaust gases), and the iconic "Flying Lady" hood ornament.
As I snapped photos, I was filled with a mix of excitement and nervousness. Ahead lay a challenging route through the mountains, stretching over 2,200 miles from northern Montana to Houston, Texas. The Cadillac, having spent years mostly idle and driven only 100–200 miles annually, was an unknown animal.
But this was a Cadillac—a true American classic. And, as expected, it handled the journey like a champion.
More photos to the previous post
and few more...
Quote from: Caddyholic on December 17, 2024, 08:44:21 PMwhat happened to the wheel discs? and show us some under hood pictures.
Yes, I will make a post of the detailed inspection of the car with pictures, etc... and how this car is becoming a show car.
Rims are excellent
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Underhood was original at the moment of purchase, with original paint, oil dust and plenty of leaks. The engine paint has faded after I used a strong pH active chemistry
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Dry Ice Blasting: A 70-Year Transformation
This was a prerequisite to the restoration activity with the lady.
Over the years, a mix of dirt and oil from the engine, transmission, and front suspension gradually turned into a hardened, fossil-like layer on the underbody of the car. Despite my efforts, this buildup was a major challenge to remove. I had pressure washed the underbody multiple times using powerful industrial-grade chemicals, often collecting dozens of pounds of oily dirt in the process. Each of these cleaning sessions was carefully performed on a thick polyethylene film to avoid permanently ruining the driveway with black oil stains. However, even with these precautions and extensive effort, the results were far from ideal. The stubborn stalactites of grime remained, as the chemicals couldn't penetrate deeply enough to dissolve the hardened residue.
Adding to the challenge, the car's frame features numerous deep corners and crevices that were nearly impossible to access with traditional methods. These areas could only be effectively cleaned using dry ice blasting.
Given this, I decided to take the next step and clean the underbody, wheel arches, and engine bay using dry ice blasting. I reached out to several nearby companies, but only one responded. The quoted prices were straightforward: $2,000 for the underbody, $500 for the wheel arches, and $250 for the engine bay—for a total of $2,750.
It was money well spent. For the first time, I no longer had to fear going under the car and becoming black-handed within 30 seconds. The underbody was finally clean and free of the decades-old grime that had resisted every previous attempt.
Now, let's take a look at the photos: I do not show what was before, because it was a total mess. I only show the result "after"
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Since this isn't my first restoration project, I've developed a rule that has proven its effectiveness several times. Before disassembling the car and focusing on aesthetics, it's essential to ensure that all systems are functioning as they should. Simply put: first, get the car to run "like it did from the factory," and then take care of everything else.
Here's a list of the main issues that needed to be addressed:
1. The power steering barely provided any assistance—practically none at all.
2. The automatic high beam-to-low beam switch (Autronic eye) wasn't functioning.
3. The Carter carburetor needed an overhaul and adjustment. The idle speed compensator for the air conditioner wasn't working, nor was the cold-start system. And there were other minor issues.
4. The air conditioning system was barely cooling.
5. All the seals in the automatic climate control system's air ducts had dried out and crumbled, causing hot air to blow onto the legroom.
6. The heater thermostat wasn't working.
7. The windshield wipers operated weakly and ineffectively.
8. The windshield washer wasn't working.
9. The clock wasn't functional.
10. The trip odometer didn't work.
11. The fuel pump wasn't performing properly, with frequent vapor lock issues.
12. The vacuum pump, integrated into the fuel pump, was also not functioning.
13. Braking was nearly impossible without the vacuum booster.
14. The hydraulic cylinder for the left rear door window was leaking, leaving the window stuck in the down position.
15. On the last stretch of the 2,200-mile journey home, the right brake cylinder began leaking.
16. Various electrical problems, including frayed wiring in some areas.
17. The driveshaft universal joints required replacement; the grease had dried out over 70 years, causing wear that became noticeable near home.
18. The starter only engaged on the third attempt, due to an issue with the solenoid.
19. Vacuum spark advance was not working
20. Vacuum antenna was not working
21. A/C compressor was making a knocking sound during operation
This is the +/- list of what needed to be repaired, restored, and resolved as a top priority.
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Was an industrial dry ice blaster used or a less costly DIYer model? Happy with the results? Clay/Lexi
A friend in Germany used also this technique. The results are really impressive and the floor from this '53 car is in a super condition. One exhaust tube after the resonator may have tiny holes. A shame after just 71 years!
Quote from: Lexi on December 18, 2024, 11:48:21 AMWas an industrial dry ice blaster used or a less costly DIYer model? Happy with the results? Clay/Lexi
Industrial with 35kw air compressor
Quote from: Roger Zimmermann on December 18, 2024, 11:59:54 AMA friend in Germany used also this technique. The results are really impressive and the floor from this '53 car is in a super condition. One exhaust tube after the resonator may have tiny holes. A shame after just 71 years!
Exactly. I show this to have an understanding that low mileage car garage kept could be with zero rust.
Exhaust yes, it was with the mesh holes in tailpipes
Let me start with re-animation of the power steering pump and gear.
Restoring the Power Steering Pump
When I picked up the car in Montana, I wasn't impressed with how the power steering performed—it was essentially non-functional. I didn't have time to investigate on-site, so I removed a pump from another 1953 Cadillac sitting in Ross's junkyard, drained its oil, and tossed it in the trunk as a spare.
Once back home, I leisurely ordered a pump rebuild kit (seals, bearings, and O-rings) and found a rotor repair kit on eBay, though I held off on purchasing the rotor itself—and I'm glad I did.
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This is the story of how I repaired two pumps in parallel. The pump's design is simple, reliable, and highly serviceable. It can be disassembled and rebuilt with basic tools.
The Process
The pumps, both the one originally installed and the spare, looked terrible externally, with oil leaking steadily, if not in streams, then definitely in drops. Despite this, the fluid level in the reservoir hadn't dropped during the 2,200-mile trip across America. According to the manual, the pump runs on automatic transmission fluid.
After cleaning the pumps, I disassembled them, revealing that the working surfaces of the pump chambers were in perfect condition.
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One rebuild kit contained enough parts to refresh not just one but both pumps! The only exception was a single set of bearings, but since the original bearings were in excellent condition, I opted not to replace them.
Reassembly Highlights
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Pressure Relief Valve: The bypass valve adjustment is made using washers. I left the factory setting intact but disassembled the valve to apply thread sealant to the plug, which was loosely secured.
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New Seals: I installed fresh seals, ensuring tight, leak-proof connections.
Bearings: The external bearing on the shaft, made in the USA, was in excellent condition and reused.
Chamber Assembly: The chamber's "nipple" marks the left side, and arrows indicate the direction of rotation. Lamellae (vanes) have one sharp side and one smooth side; they must be installed with the smooth side facing outward.
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Final Steps
Between the pump casing sections, I placed new O-rings from the rebuild kit.
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The rear of the pump has a valve rod seal and a retaining ring, which I secured during assembly.
Once fully assembled, I thoroughly cleaned the pump and its components, preparing them for painting.
All components were painted separately before final assembly. To ensure reliability, I used polyurethane sealant (designed for Mercedes engines) instead of relying solely on cork gaskets.
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The Result
The pump is now restored, clean, and painted. The brackets and all other components shine like new. This level of detail will apply to every part of this Cadillac.
Once reassembled and mounted on the engine, the pump looked slightly out of place—but this is only the beginning of the restoration journey.
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I hope many people are already aware that a critical factor determining whether your power steering pump will generate pressure is the thickness of the O-ring at the pressure plate. If the O-ring is too thick, it can "leak" into the chamber of the steering pump when the bolts are tightened, preventing the pressure plate from making firm contact with the rotor body—resulting in zero pressure being produced.
Quote from: kudims on December 18, 2024, 10:20:37 PMI hope many people are already aware that a critical factor determining whether your power steering pump will generate pressure is the thickness of the O-ring at the pressure plate. If the O-ring is too thick, it can "leak" into the chamber of the steering pump when the bolts are tightened, preventing the pressure plate from making firm contact with the rotor body—resulting in zero pressure being produced.
I'm glad you understood this. Yeasrs ago, a man went almost mad just because this O-ring was too thick. I still don't understand why the kit producer is still including the thicker O-ring.
Quote from: Roger Zimmermann on December 19, 2024, 02:41:48 AMI'm glad you understood this. Yeasrs ago, a man went almost mad just because this O-ring was too thick. I still don't understand why the kit producer is still including the thicker O-ring.
It took me a while to understand the issue. Finally, I found videos on youtube, which have directed me on a right path, but the guy was not explaining WHY it matters so much. And this is what I have understood as a PhD in math & physics :-)
Restoring the Power Steering Gearbox
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Before I started, I had already purchased a rebuild kit, which will come into play later in the story. Now, let's dive into the fascinating complexity of this component.
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The power steering gearbox is both simple and complex. Simple, because it was the first steering gearbox with power assistance designed for civilian vehicles. It has separate modules: a worm gear mechanism with its own rack, a spool valve mechanism, and a hydraulic cylinder with another rack that directly acts on the pitman arm. Complex, because these modules interact across separate housings, connected by multiple seals, and require precise adjustments to function correctly.
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Disassembly and Inspection
The spool valve mechanism was cleaned in acetone and sprayed with WD-40 to prevent rust. Its plungers and springs were stored in a separate bag for safety.
The seals from the rebuild kit for both the spool valve and the pivot shaft fit perfectly.
Needle bearings and bushings were in excellent condition and did not require replacement or reaming.
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Reassembly Highlights
The spool valve mechanism was carefully reassembled, with a focus on ensuring all seals and components fit correctly. A weakly tightened plug in the valve was seated using thread sealant to prevent leaks.
A secondary seal for the steering shaft, which wasn't included in the rebuild kit, had to be purchased separately.
(https://a.d-cd.net/2IxwjH6bZZ1BGwvVYjFAMAlT12g-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/2gvtkkEIvUOMirt7md5hyn6B8Qg-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/MgBMChnX26LeaFQhf5PIbSchALw-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/QY8miveKBR0JcxYC1iaEdwGH6X4-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/nYyJTRWqykBeDCj9MLF7HRTcrJs-1920.jpg)
The piston in the hydraulic cylinder was carefully cleaned, and its new seals were installed. The sealing ring fit tightly into the cylinder's precisely machined opening, designed to hold pressure without leaks.
The rack and sector gear clearances were adjusted using the factory method, which involved stacking thin steel shims. Adding shims increases clearance, while removing them tightens the fit. This design, while innovative at the time, was replaced in 1954 with a threaded adjustment plate, which would have been far more convenient.
(https://a.d-cd.net/AZtqlpehJWoOl_J9nh0d-l2AObg-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/7peq7KeRQ3j3R-FTtj7vUzCDfjE-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/vg2ge7LX9olW4CACKhzKu10qWWI-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/4Rbo7jsU0zZNu8wNIxLmoJqe4vg-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/E6CjwZbERbJkfbZKOgmZm5O4DCg-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/abfjA7aKRLngt0OmdoDqaSX1Sd0-1920.jpg)
Challenges and Adjustments
The rebuild kit included all O-rings but had a major flaw: the thickness of some O-rings didn't match specifications. While 2.6 mm and 3.6 mm rings were required, all included rings were 3.6 mm. This required sourcing correct-sized O-rings separately, adding a few days to the process.
Original GM gearboxes were known to leak over time, as they used a thick, viscous oil (similar to gear oil) in the gearbox and ATF in the hydraulic system. Dealerships often replaced the oil with grease, solving the leakage but sacrificing proper lubrication. I opted to maintain the ATF system, ensuring all seals were perfect to prevent leaks.
(https://a.d-cd.net/AenlRExm-V0Qel0tnVTUoEdjVgs-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/Y0s4YByeedZO-TNu2rzjdjXrSlM-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/M4G5Qcsk5-w3UgndtgDAQQQMvHw-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/yEFAAjutNR0QF2yrIZ9Jgc5D7og-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/RT5rZ09eJN7fjQiwfX24s1eUb9c-1920.jpg)
Final Steps and Results
The hydraulic cylinder was reconnected, and the pivot shaft clearance was adjusted precisely.
To prevent leaks at the shim-packed adjustment points, I sealed the edges with a polyurethane sealant.
Once fully assembled, the gearbox looked much closer to its original state, both in functionality and appearance.
(https://a.d-cd.net/4w4XDPWYuG6lya8IX1AGU6L8nTo-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/3yp_LUUQcdlW4LrYhR8q81i0Z7E-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/4Mkmq1z6sXDS6I9sLch-AtcYXGk-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/HrFYykuO77V4A-YlLENpL-oiXWI-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/2Tz0G5LbJCb8PFhW3ckoJLpZPqY-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/nMb0dyxYxcfsq0_1ec0_wA6OCBE-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/aTzUlWZXZ-SdrH1eODM32wzZ5Ak-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/H1A-hH5xE0-hq-SmPiCija1uSuA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/mJY193FDSYVJpjByieqZ9aDYBGQ-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/MF3n9bO-dKnpW3P9s2ymhofxHsE-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/0QG2U3BYEU6b0LMsUZBaWPHZckQ-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/ScBQxXQL8wdnZCnYVmzqwpPJvGQ-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/aRHstbIn7stpdkW9rqJUAzsyPSM-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/BzTYoJwk3Sq-9nnsPMaC9lHe-Kg-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/M63KbKbMdFu328lJt3ks3Q4Fl7g-1920.jpg)
Now, the power steering gearbox is ready for action, combining original design integrity with modern sealing techniques to ensure reliability and performance.
(https://a.d-cd.net/_Bx4PhMDZzYFlEatInPaSo2S55E-1920.jpg)
And... Paint job...
(https://a.d-cd.net/mQ8A6I56TWUDUNhCa6ZpnyvmCK4-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/yROYpG8fhkDPsJ1NIfxUz4-Ud-Q-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/zL-5qYuqPIgwSh_vxyiQZ_Z4W78-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/W9v7KmQwRhlFuaKiXB7KSbcVD48-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/ckY0CHPiC2QRNvDnsiDjNWOtUnI-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/rLtlMCkJtws-BOsZZ1xRdKUYJ6w-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/ZBBjbdZfjw2dBP0K4741mOkQ0LQ-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/O4DaST8Jta_xCDpZkizau24YYzo-1920.jpg)
Finally: Installation on a car. The front end should be lifted so that the front wheels will be at least 10 inches above the floor
(https://a.d-cd.net/aX4Ws8OInWNeTxEAuP0nWi4JDto-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/MxKxP2UHVAZIot0wvt1UyXRkkC0-1920.jpg)
The power steering and the steering gearbox work excellent. Sahara dry from outside, which makes me more than happy.
It seems that you are using sealing material (like silicone) which was not intended when the car was new. If a sealing product may help to avoid leaks, it can also do some harm, as the excess material is going inside the device. It's not uncommon to have malfunctioning transmissions because some surfaces were sealed with an unappropriate material which went into the oil cicuit.
Quote from: Roger Zimmermann on December 20, 2024, 03:34:31 AMIt seems that you are using sealing material (like silicone) which was not intended when the car was new. If a sealing product may help to avoid leaks, it can also do some harm, as the excess material is going inside the device. It's not uncommon to have malfunctioning transmissions because some surfaces were sealed with an unappropriate material which went into the oil cicuit.
I try to put this polyurethane sealant on surfaces so that it will not go inside, because yes, the issue is common, when people are over-enjoying silicone...
But this is not silicone, this is the sealant for Mercedes engines, which are assembled without gaskets - only sealant
Replacing all vacuum hoses + Trip odometer repair
The vacuum hoses on this car are 70 years old. Surprisingly, the rubber is still in great shape—no cracks or signs of aging. I didn't throw them away, so I carefully coiled them up and stored them in a box. However, the connections to the fittings had loosened over time, causing minor leaks. Instead of clamping the hoses, I decided to replace all the hoses with new ones, both in the engine bay and under the dashboard.
(https://a.d-cd.net/-XxqJYJEhzJkcCPLBwJ8eURaQ3s-1920.jpg)
To get easier access to the wiper switch (and the washer button nearby), I partially disassembled the instrument cluster. It only took about three minutes—everything is surprisingly convenient for a car from the 1950s.
(https://a.d-cd.net/zMtBtm0s_tKVW1LSt5VP-CdhxUM-1920.jpg)
The wiper switch has a smart design. A long rod from the washer button connects to its center, and turning the outer hex head opens a vacuum valve for the windshield wiper motor. Once everything was accessible, it made the work much easier.
(https://a.d-cd.net/pJfrvgJn_1IDEll7gCyjL-pEuj0-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/TWNjHTqz16GY4zp8sMKohjm2Xp0-1920.jpg)
Since I was already inside the instrument cluster, I decided to clean all the glass faces and polish the chrome bezels. I did fix the trip odometer, which likely hadn't worked since it was new.
(https://a.d-cd.net/gIGWWa9P71BdbwyvSHavt8hUTNo-1920.jpg)
The issue was a retaining ring on the shaft that wasn't seated correctly. This created too much play between the rings, so they would sometimes turn and sometimes not. Using a special tubular tool, I nudged the ring about 1 mm (maybe less), and now the digits flip perfectly, one after the other.
(https://a.d-cd.net/81_gWGGbfPgvo2im58kyRshC7tg-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/IjaIXHuQoUOsX1X69mC8Wg-GsKA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/Rj0JrI4KOHT9nPQvkdVCNyfDTZw-1920.jpg)
I repainted the scratched shift indicator needle for the automatic transmission.
(https://a.d-cd.net/odlGImUth9Jl011arKlmEA2kkWM-1920.jpg)
All original fasteners were stainless steel. Due to chrome shortages during the Korean War, many trim pieces on this car were made from polished stainless steel, including the fasteners—a testament to the era's challenges.
(https://a.d-cd.net/z9Z9Mg8l2fGHNHkZVftBfVJV3cw-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/o4il6t6AbXcuqHuKaULBd9qg5m8-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/lL7UnUvA_CdADM2JG5ytD0D9_3g-1920.jpg)
The instrument cluster is now fully reassembled.
(https://a.d-cd.net/O8OX9NOIw57TWpLmuGy2r21YAkA-1920.jpg)
I also hung some pictures on the garage walls — mostly pictures of my previous car.
(https://a.d-cd.net/DV_676pVUa54OWVF1VK7TtQQbwY-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/nXM7lJE7etcojQ6RQwyLxn4b5rk-1920.jpg)
As usual, the workbench is cluttered with "extra stuff," but that's just how it goes!
(https://a.d-cd.net/3kvk20PFxpzEF4AEXHEwDPqJexg-1920.jpg)
Now I am confident that there are no vacuum leaks, so it's time to inspect all the aux equipment, powered by vacuum: antenna, wipers, windshield washer
Quote from: Roger Zimmermann on December 19, 2024, 02:41:48 AMI'm glad you understood this. Yeasrs ago, a man went almost mad just because this O-ring was too thick. I still don't understand why the kit producer is still including the thicker O-ring.
That was me and Art who had that problem. It took me over a year to diagnose as I just couldn't put up with it not working, I walked away and left the car. Art hit the same problem and I suggested the new seal that was thicker than the original was the problem so we both switched them at the same time and they both worked perfectly.
Phil
Let me dissolve technical content by posting few pictures from the trip Montana - Texas. First is from Yellowstone, second is from Amarillo, Cadillac Ranch
(https://a.d-cd.net/7eJqUPKNQOE_RbGyglf92hRStIk-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/a-eB24BwT5FUqENKiuDN7xnzqIY-1920.jpg)
Sorry Phil...I remember your story, but not which person who had such a problem...
Rebuild of Fuel & Vacuum pump - not worth it - buy NOS
(https://a.d-cd.net/k-lIPuAh18X6uX9aaQCLf2lRWgQ-1920.jpg)
The fuel pump on the Cadillac engine is located in the engine valley—a less-than-ideal placement even by 1953 standards. Here's why this positioning is problematic:
Heat Exposure:
The pump is constantly exposed to hot air from the radiator and is nestled in the engine valley, much like being in a kangaroo pouch. This setup guarantees overheating issues, but that's only part of the problem.
Fuel Boiling:
The bigger issue is that fuel begins to boil in the line before it even reaches the pump. This happens because the fuel line runs along the front of the engine, where it's exposed to high temperatures.
As a result, even a perfectly functional fuel pump struggles to operate under these conditions, leading to fuel delivery failure. This becomes particularly noticeable during city driving, with low airflow and frequent stops at traffic lights. After shutting off the engine and letting it sit for 10–15 minutes, restarting the car can become impossible without dousing the fuel pump and fuel line with a significant amount of water to cool them down.
Here is the pump removed from the engine:
(https://a.d-cd.net/tO5-9nloDN-SSBr17Z0t6MnfHcY-1920.jpg)
Here is a rebuild kit:
(https://a.d-cd.net/DVqriAYIUU_ylh-tUJ_JAJaq5fk-1920.jpg)
Disassembled and cleaned:
(https://a.d-cd.net/MykjVQNx23ubJwBxh451Zbv4x3c-1920.jpg)
Flattening the flange:
(https://a.d-cd.net/hf-6CiuZcu3TeWebHs5gEsu6BUo-1920.jpg)
Looks good:
(https://a.d-cd.net/apYGRM98xhVidlrdJhAh5nUr6f0-1920.jpg)
Pulling some valves off was a challenge. Here is the 2-minute made custom puller:
(https://a.d-cd.net/ojvT5K87tJmF8r4_MVBiqxgtVHM-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/OTViFZ4phPjif1fQxqR3PlJfL1M-1920.jpg)
One valve had to be customized... shame on the kit producer:
(https://a.d-cd.net/aHf8W220QipTReW9mbOPb6gO5vo-1920.jpg)
Reason - pump body has this:
(https://a.d-cd.net/792C16YoqSGmQkdl1fqNCMejPMg-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/O07IWSLEK-xEnltJyPpDSZ6Lh-8-1920.jpg)
Assembled:
(https://a.d-cd.net/sNhXoIh0rymErwmZP-80Do2aMsM-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/PGRUl4opT9-EMkWnDn-l3DHsYhw-1920.jpg)
Installed on the engine:
(https://a.d-cd.net/FNt0iQ2c7RF8opa4TZlyTKAOxOQ-1920.jpg)
But this is not the end of the story... because:
1. The pump was making clunking noise at low RPM (380-400) while hot
2. The axle was leaking
The leak was fixed by replacing the axle with the 1/4" stainless bolt + little of polyurethane engine sealant
(https://a.d-cd.net/IMnRrNc7hR6y80aFTW30rJZmAcA-1920.jpg)
The axle from the kit:
(https://a.d-cd.net/W9rBucvqrslqdBlrPIOvHcY7l8s-1920.jpg)
With this, it stopped leaking
(https://a.d-cd.net/AwQ5weFDH9tC3GW0tHJoAbzCakg-1920.jpg)
But the noise was still there...
Solution of that problem tend to the purchasing of the new pump:
(https://a.d-cd.net/jla9I5GX4J-gus1JWMNDoHx3scI-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/jDd-hn3Gv6oMM6KyogpTO4Ot3S8-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/fRevo9KWBcYx-1u0bEfCX82hMzQ-1920.jpg)
Original gasket with a narrow hole in the center - only for the arm and a round hole for the oil drainage:
(https://a.d-cd.net/VbrSRTVpQFHmCipRSsiUMiSniDU-1920.jpg)
With this - you are good to go:
(https://a.d-cd.net/KrDv2NtP1VTmCY_JJwelktXzGBI-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/31WZOi51paVTETJ-8PMyzzWdFOg-1920.jpg)
And... this is the picture from the recent time. Looks good, works perfect:
(https://a.d-cd.net/bpHQdx58KHCDpcNe5YnrXniKFaI-1920.jpg)
Finally, this is only my advise... but don't spend time for rebuilding the mechanical pump since you can find NOS on a market. Not worth time spent.
My only thoughts about anything NOS with relation to fuel is that the original diaphragms will not be compatible with the latest ethanol-laced fuel.
Bruce. >:D
My thoughts too! Wouldn't trust an NOS pump that old with its old diaphragm when put up against ethanol laced fuels. Actually that diaphragm may well be dried out and won't last long with any fuel, ethanol or not.
Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) on December 22, 2024, 06:02:22 PMMy only thoughts about anything NOS with relation to fuel is that the original diaphragms will not be compatible with the latest ethanol-laced fuel.
Bruce. >:D
The same thoughts I had.
I contacted that guy, who is specializing on selling these new pumps, on a subject - do I need to replace valves or diaphrahms... and he said that I am good to go as is. 6 months... no issues yet. Will see
Radio Antenna: Restoration and Creative Engineering
The radio antenna on the 1953 Cadillac is mounted on the left front fender. It features a single telescoping section and a vacuum-driven mechanism controlled via the radio itself. The right-hand knob on the radio is multifunctional: turning it adjusts the balance between the front and rear speakers (stereo wasn't a thing in 1953), pulling it raises the antenna, and pushing it lowers the antenna.
After replacing the vacuum lines, I decided it was time to investigate why the antenna refused to move up and down without manual assistance.
Initial Observations and Dismantling
The antenna was removed for inspection. An interesting quirk of its design is that it doesn't fully retract—a 15 cm section always remains visible. Additionally, the telescoping section can only be extended manually, meaning it's not fully mechanized.
(https://a.d-cd.net/z8UQB9xxh2CzyuxGHAXdEFoIOns-1920.jpg)
The antenna housing, which acts as a cylinder, is made of aluminum. Disassembly required careful handling, so I brought out the heavy artillery—a bearing separator tool. I secured one side to the housing using a split pipe, while the other pressed against the decorative nut.
It looked a bit ridiculous, but it worked flawlessly.
(https://a.d-cd.net/mK7fPrHSzHbIxs0gPAgU9CjNzHo-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/Xe_DVqeM4ou-SFL6olFjRgUPGUw-1920.jpg)
Diagnosing the Issues
The antenna had two main problems:
1. The housing was dented in three places, causing the piston to stick.
2. The shaft seal had hardened into a brittle material, similar to vulcanized rubber, and was leaking air.
I spent an evening brainstorming how to restore the housing to a perfectly smooth cylindrical shape and finally came up with a solution.
(https://a.d-cd.net/miRzVOWM08COUyx-E5zF2oTxiX4-1920.jpg)
Repairing the Housing
The internal diameter of the housing is 40 mm, with the dents located about 30 cm from the edge. Here's where creativity came into play—I repurposed a CV joint ball (23 mm in diameter) from an old repair project, solving a small geometry problem to create a tool.
Using ¾-inch plywood, I drilled a 12 mm hole to house the ball, ensuring it would touch only the circle's edge. I then shaped the plywood to optimize its fit and functionality.
(https://a.d-cd.net/fKCd8BaAnHq267u_WAtL-NOkFKk-1920.jpg)
The ball, paired with silicone pipe assembly lubricant, allowed me to smooth out the dents. Supporting the cylinder's outer surface with adequate pressure prevented further deformation while ensuring proper friction for the repair. After a few longitudinal and transverse movements, the housing was restored to perfection.
(https://a.d-cd.net/1SIc4eQnmTrf5b2gK6jeI4mUbH4-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/vIUqHxmlJpFaDAkMdHDOKdu47kQ-1920.jpg)
Additional Repairs
Cleaned the antenna base, which features a petal-style rubber valve that was tested and confirmed to be operational.
Replaced the shaft seal, which turned out to be two O-rings. After scouring my treasure trove of spare parts, I found suitable replacements and installed them with a bit of silicone lubricant.
The shaft and piston now move freely, emitting a satisfying sound reminiscent of a bus door opening.
(https://a.d-cd.net/SgjqmtsGzcPqwM3WGZIPK2P6BIs-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/aiHgJVjwSk7WfDByOUr3u6-kdSU-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/rYUoROlB7aR5FJxsfTTi9U0RWHE-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/TbcgqkNXKvbXVQu-1e0ApLA2mdw-1920.jpg)
Finishing Touches
Cleaned the antenna's primary brass element until it gleamed.
Reassembled the entire antenna and inspected the manufacturing numbers and date for documentation.
The antenna is now fully restored, operating smoothly and reliably.
(https://a.d-cd.net/7p0pzTPRwAx8cBl9hn2-O8kPpfk-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/zsQg9lqWOwADyi7zCJgOnqHOYgA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/PFoliy5KA7phDBxn64MeCMJP9_E-1920.jpg)
Final Thoughts
This project was a mix of precision, patience, and creativity. Finding unconventional solutions, like repurposing a CV joint ball, turned a tricky repair into a fun engineering challenge. Here's wishing everyone the ability to discover creative solutions to any task!
(https://a.d-cd.net/uTmYMihuGhTZv4uAmOWJn0NH4wY-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/UX98rgiNbCIhfY2zkd1Sxbp0ZVw-1920.jpg)
Restoring the "Autronic Eye" Automatic Headlight Dimmer: A Journey Through Vintage Tech
It's no revelation to say that a premium car can only truly be considered premium if every feature designed by the manufacturer works flawlessly. That's the philosophy guiding my work with Phoenix, my 1953 Cadillac, as we methodically restore it to full operational glory.
One such feature is the "Autronic Eye," Cadillac's automatic headlight dimmer. When I bought the car, the system wasn't functional. A full day of troubleshooting, wiring work, and careful adjustments finally brought it back to life.
Understanding the System
The Autronic Eye operates through a combination of relays, vacuum tubes, and a photosensitive "magic eye" sensor mounted on the dashboard.
(https://a.d-cd.net/6xbUyQwTAmsh6WoC9PcccmthGbs-1920.jpg)
A foot pedal toggles the system on or off, allowing the Autronic Eye to decide when to switch between high and low beams.
A second foot pedal enables manual override for high beams or flashing.
The schematic in the service manual shows a relay that integrates with the floor switch and Autronic Eye amplifier.
Diagnosis and Initial Repairs
Step 1: Relay Troubleshooting
The relay was disconnected, with wires hanging suspiciously loose. Upon inspection, I found the internal rivets had failed, and all contacts were loose.
I fabricated a new clamp from galvanized steel, threaded it for screws, and reassembled the relay with threadlocker and polished contacts using 2000-grit sandpaper. The repaired relay was mounted back on the Autronic Eye amplifier bracket.
(https://a.d-cd.net/Ddf0zRsLGPm5oJay7npDX8-wf1E-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/rHWv5sAP2l6OEZmaMd3hEzhCKN0-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/QzFJhyoR6ZIcLNoe2Ncsqm0kQNk-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/m2q1mGDuA_xiCI3lodosNIVBH_E-1920.jpg)
Step 2: Wiring Puzzles
When reconnecting the relay, I noticed the wire colors didn't match the manual exactly. Three wires were close, but the fourth was clearly incorrect. I assumed the factory might have run out of matching threads for the fabric-insulated wires. I connected everything as best I could—no luck.
Reading further into the manual, I learned the system could operate like a standard manual headlight switch by bypassing the Autronic Eye. Testing this idea, I traced the floor switch wiring and unwrapped sections of dirty insulation to find colors matching the schematic. The puzzle pieces began falling into place.
(https://a.d-cd.net/-CRr807V7FK7vXmhYukkwNWHlls-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/ovlqZyDb5AXTL7JRP_DoxCBNxf8-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/wL9UYFDvEb53-OlVkI86wZONddQ-1920.jpg)
Step 3: Bypassing and Testing
I temporarily disconnected the amplifier and wired the system to bypass the Autronic Eye. With the fuse removed, the floor switch functioned perfectly, and the relay clicked on cue. This confirmed the wiring was now correct, but the amplifier or sensor was non-functional.
(https://a.d-cd.net/N1mf3LmGbgG7GI3SHIE_PGkpJRM-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/5pnpBCPosRjpzxrRvql3MgPlPys-1920.jpg)
Fixing the Amplifier
The amplifier boosts voltage to 150V and 1,000V for the sensitive light-reactive tube. The manual stated the first sign of amplifier failure is a silent vibrator.
(https://a.d-cd.net/0AqqcImA-xSockEzcjMGmg6_q_c-1920.jpg)
Disassembling the vibrator revealed intact coils but dirty contacts. Cleaning them with 2000-grit sandpaper restored functionality.
Upon reassembly and power-up, the vibrator buzzed to life.
(https://a.d-cd.net/edXXRrVmbqBRfMqzkDmgQOPIIpY-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/Z-300u3OzEFuCeqrKSwNcUCB19Y-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/TMIsQH3Wv_Th3KMx6ZvoTnYZmSI-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/a5gTXBUuSENGko_mB0pK9WH4pk4-1920.jpg)
Testing the System:
After a minute of warm-up, I tested the manual high beam switch—it worked perfectly. Holding my hand over the Autronic Eye sensor triggered the high beams, while removing it switched back to low beams. Success!
Final Adjustments and Road Tests
Reassembly included securing the amplifier cover, which conveniently housed an electrical schematic, and mounting the floor switch back in its original location.
(https://a.d-cd.net/XCUsCF7TH6keoUfF0sUVo-ndO08-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/F7lNVUSlDcBJM4QHpfHzTbxz7uA-1920.jpg)
The system has two adjustments:
Hold (on the amplifier): Determines the delay before switching beams.
Dim (on the sensor): Adjusts sensitivity to light levels.
The service manual recommends using a Kent-Moore Guide Autronic-Eye Tester Model 10, but road tests revealed the system was functioning correctly without further adjustments.
(https://a.d-cd.net/wVnx03MJH7DeBopR-2bq_9vsVgs-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/2oFYHhAnmtOYPtjxifkp9HC_H0E-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/owjnaB2VQZFsfTczesaN1QyM1YU-1920.jpg)
Conclusion
After meticulous repairs and testing, the Autronic Eye is fully operational, switching beams precisely and reliably. This restoration not only brings back a unique feature of the Cadillac but also reinforces its status as a true premium car of its time. Vintage tech might be finicky, but when it works, it's pure magic.
Rebuilding the Vacuum Advance Unit for the Distributor
Next step in re-animation of the Muskogean Phoenix, was vacuum spark advance regulator. NOS is pretty expensive ($300), but the common problem is obvious and can be easily fixed within 1 hour.
(https://a.d-cd.net/kv93nl_V3uOZBJWFR5E3fr109NQ-1920.jpg)
I removed the vacuum advance unit, which was no longer holding vacuum. Carefully, I cut the crimped retaining ring and disassembled the mechanism.
Disassembly and Diagnosis
Upon opening the unit, I found that the 70-year-old diaphragm had "evaporated" into dust.
Luckily, I had a fuel-resistant diaphragm from a fuel pump (which I had to rebuild several posts ago), and it was a fair replacement for the broken one.
(https://a.d-cd.net/kvtqztds6IZkvMqEgYnUqanTcjA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/OMQCNFTIQTeZHPMGZ_vxAxWKEDo-1920.jpg)
Installing the New Diaphragm
The new diaphragm was fitted into place, and as an extra precaution, I applied a small amount of polyurethane sealant under the rivet to ensure a tight seal.
(https://a.d-cd.net/_VqrD0OFpCfIl3pwh5kT5tyw3sE-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/c1URIImH7RoT0pGFzmyEJdscYzc-1920.jpg)
Trimming the diaphragm to size is critical but should only be done after the unit is fully reassembled.
Why Wait to Trim the Diaphragm?
Attempting to mark and trim the diaphragm before assembly is a recipe for misalignment. The diaphragm is spring-loaded, and pre-trimming it makes proper assembly nearly impossible without factory conditions. It can end up either protruding or collapsing unevenly.
Modifications and Reassembly
Without the diaphragm in place, I drilled six 2.5 mm holes and tapped them for M3 threads. The holes in the outer plate were enlarged to 3 mm to allow the screws to fit freely.
The unit was reassembled with the diaphragm and spring, ensuring the diaphragm was properly seated. The screws were tightened securely, and the excess diaphragm material was trimmed cleanly using a sharp blade.
(https://a.d-cd.net/yMWkzyfnDedb7wtHyhGp1pCBPi8-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/cIccWDjz-5c6R31r1gDFE-H3-8E-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/IG3kGg0eT-jL8sbRIaVXzc80gyk-1920.jpg)
Final Result
The rebuilt unit looks and functions perfectly. With the addition of screws, the design is now fully serviceable for future repairs.
(https://a.d-cd.net/j7UGLBPKjFJAM8cF5RyLmyEcBi0-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/2c8pA2SozF_E7yzI5V_HVgjUyvA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/9G7BVuH7wuKz29j_XkfelzuSmwU-1920.jpg)
A quick vacuum test (using the highly technical "tongue test") confirmed that the unit holds vacuum.
The distributor's vacuum advance is now fully operational and ready for many more years of service.
Your reconstruction is so IMPRESSIVE... congratulations-- I surmise that many folks simply ignore the vacuum advance, since their engines seem to run well. As many of us know, a good vacuum advance provides smoother start ups, snappy acceleration, and better gas mileage.
I ran into this issue about a decade ago, and had no idea that one could successfully restore an old one. The metal chamber was my non-starter. Many distributors were used interchangeably by engine manufacturers and varied in geometry even though they "looked" identical. In my case, I took the plunge with a Corvair advance, and sure enough the actuator arm was an 1/8 inch too long. I shimmed it against the body of the distributor, and it has worked perfectly. Bottom line, there's usually a work around, but it's never easy.
Restoration and Adjustment of the Carter 4-Barrel Carburetor
I recently tackled the restoration of a Carter 4-barrel carburetor, often installed on Cadillacs with factory air conditioning. Unlike the more common Rochester units, Carter carburetors include a load compensation system for air conditioner operation, a unique feature that can help identify whether A/C was factory-installed or added later at a dealership.
Here, I'll share my experience with the restoration process, detailing the challenges and solutions, though it's likely of niche interest to most readers.
Overview and Cold Start System
The cold start system relies on a bimetallic spring and a series of linkages.
1. In cold conditions, the spring contracts, pulling the choke lever to close the air flap.
2. Simultaneously, other linkages slightly open the throttle plate to increase idle speed for warm-up.
3. As the engine warms, vacuum draws heated air through a calibrated tube near the exhaust manifold, expanding the spring. This allows the air flap to open under its weight and airflow pressure, gradually reducing idle speed.
The system also includes a small-toothed fast idle sector, which releases once the accelerator pedal is tapped, allowing the throttle plate to return to its normal position.
(https://a.d-cd.net/KWTglAHw4UAMkybOXgTxEdwObFA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/tnownn4pWzibHO-CE5NnTZmzEpU-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/budFHaRDeqVXK66sgie_0B65UmY-1920.jpg)
Throttle Linkage Adjustments
1. The accelerator pump linkage was incorrectly adjusted, causing the upper cam to hit the carburetor lid during deceleration and preventing the throttle from fully closing. This issue led to idle speeds fluctuating between 400 RPM and 600 RPM. A simple adjustment to the wire linkage resolved the problem, restoring consistent idle performance.
2. The fast idle linkage controls a cam that interacts with the fast idle screw during warm-up. It also blocks the secondary barrels from opening until the engine reaches operating temperature. My carburetor was missing its blocking pin, and the secondary throttle lever was damaged. These were repaired using a custom-made M3 brass pin and an M5-threaded secondary throttle lever stop.
(https://a.d-cd.net/eIe0TyHW0J7-D244WZEBBIlQccM-1920.jpg)
Cleaning and Initial Inspections
The first evening was spent cleaning the carburetor inside and out. I used six cans of carburetor cleaner, scrubbing every nook with a toothbrush to remove deposits.
(https://a.d-cd.net/CS0iO9gDq9uyOvf49drIp5UDWIk-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/EEVtNSQE_lbNN50XfauhTF0r_ac-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/uXOkIMPl3tQa4juY06sLCqfDnLg-1920.jpg)
The throttle body showed no play, thanks to long bushings in excellent condition.
(https://a.d-cd.net/oQAlU0_1s1J24u_F8born5NcNTA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/gtPARMpm7k834gnObgPE7xc3cPE-1920.jpg)
Common Issues Addressed
Primary and Secondary Float Adjustment: The floats were swapped, leading to improper fuel levels. Primary float levels were 12 mm below specification, contributing to poor performance in hot weather. Correct levels were set at 1/8 inch for the primary floats and 1/4 inch for the secondary floats per the service manual.
(https://a.d-cd.net/YUu8oFLtvYi9_qPFEIztfCOxo4s-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/zZeTXuG6xYclIeKJD1Xz_Jh2j_4-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/OCaowPjOBHpr6Gi6Dc0t60uJu3Y-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/QWX21DhXq11ofK6KVnt8DevtBH4-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/2MMXFi4s3yc9Q3YeUBeUwwwKXP4-1920.jpg)
Hot Air Tube: The heat channel for warming the choke system was completely clogged with carbon deposits, disabling the system. This was cleaned thoroughly.
Idle Mixture and Throttle Stop: New ethanol-resistant float needles were installed, replacing the original metal-on-metal needles.
(https://a.d-cd.net/xdx8lSwZ8CUUNIo6g6jZJD2CThw-1920.jpg)
Final Assembly and Adjustments
Economizer System:
Installed economizer rods and linkages, ensuring smooth operation. These rods enrich the mixture during high-load conditions or when the accelerator pump is activated.
(https://a.d-cd.net/o6t-wG2rBKKyZK0xaNOa3VvGHIU-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/fSvPAe0GR8uBF5Wp8v4iKxgh42A-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/UamEnuAhT-szzhp_Ded_bLrMW-8-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/pKzL4A_RQorbVwCcaax1dTSSYso-1920.jpg)
The adjustment was verified using feeler gauges.
(https://a.d-cd.net/BBMLygfop7GW4Y3cUOe486cj0IQ-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/iq6ErSWSPkvzu2osPM6A4Gd_M0s-1920.jpg)
Choke System:
Adjusted the choke flap with a 0.6 mm round gauge (used a drill bit for precision).
(https://a.d-cd.net/SKzxwaTP49E5h4Qq_Q8D2eOFpLs-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/pyUVtSwtLHcjLg2ZpgJfogRcjRE-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/etXKoTXF9QCIRI2CP3vhWFqFhQ8-1920.jpg)
Verified the fast idle speed to ensure it stayed below 1800 RPM when the engine was fully warmed.
Secondary Barrel Lockout:
Tested the blocking mechanism to ensure secondary barrels remain locked until the fast idle mechanism is fully disengaged.
(https://a.d-cd.net/0cobGQb2onBj9HFCl7icSyvJhJw-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/Hx-o7EtUnZl2j0qkgjj-nYrLuGY-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/yCN7iuISdMj49Nj7ZshuOev76pE-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/kSFYO4OfzFZKxDoi_jrKAkcosPw-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/4i1shP-gbH7NoreZ3Fx6w_PxtkA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/QCgaA6daMeg9gVu1YkpLPn4FYeg-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/eX-v7-mXA2gjWskPbdgwdUqxGXI-1920.jpg)
Idle RPM improver inspection and cleaning:
(https://a.d-cd.net/FBxIFPLGA3zBQq70002AR81c_D0-1920.jpg)
Carburettor is now fully assembled and ready to be installed:
(https://a.d-cd.net/3LiuW6mSJzIm96lN4N4l-rmmNzI-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/BB2_iGacU1LarwxvcI7R_gDIG-Q-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/RZK_bVmOwefP2X_RsCH3Cs401EI-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/7B5HaAJD5EczBxBQ3gHRf5Rqp48-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/vhxmxgeN6NfBFxi2JWsVsnuAeYA-1920.jpg)
This is not correct gasket orientation (should be flipped over 180 degrees), though it's how you want to orient it, if you do not want hot exhaust gases to travel through the bottom of the carburettor.
(https://a.d-cd.net/_1yfOTQa2yi6-gXdcmYIIFMnOuw-1920.jpg)
Results
After careful reassembly, the carburetor was reinstalled on the engine. Final idle settings were adjusted as follows:
- Neutral: 400–420 RPM
- Drive: 380–390 RPM
- Drive with A/C engaged: 420 RPM
The engine now runs like a Swiss watch—smooth, consistent, and responsive under all conditions. The Carter carburetor, with its unique systems, is fully operational and ready for many more miles of service.
(https://a.d-cd.net/KjGo05rpbmpaz_y1UbJGU_ZkOXk-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/KOSQqC67TzmAkBeE5GIInlgIQsQ-1920.jpg)
Wasn't 1952 the first year for mass produced 4 bbl carburetors? So your 1953 carb would be one of the first 4 bbl carburetors, which in itself is interesting from a historical perspective. Clay/Lexi
Quote from: Lexi on December 25, 2024, 11:34:58 AMWasn't 1952 the first year for mass produced 4 bbl carburetors? So your 1953 carb would be one of the first 4 bbl carburetors, which in itself is interesting from a historical perspective. Clay/Lexi
Yes, 1953 was a second year with 4bbl on Cadillacs. And adjustments differ between 52 and 53 for float levels, idle rich screws, and idle rpm
I really like your posts, very well laid out and informative, like you would expect from a factory training program.
Thanks for sharing your experience with these old cars.
Rick
Quote from: kudims on December 25, 2024, 11:08:14 AMRestoration and Adjustment of the Carter 4-Barrel Carburetor
(https://a.d-cd.net/etXKoTXF9QCIRI2CP3vhWFqFhQ8-1920.jpg)
Love the skewed thread on the Choke Tube attachment point. The person working on the engine must have known that something was wrong when they initially crossed the thread. But, kept on going with his, or her, heavy hand.
Bruce. >:D
Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) on December 25, 2024, 06:19:07 PMLove the skewed thread on the Choke Tube attachment point. The person working on the engine must have known that something was wrong when they initially crossed the thread. But, kept on going with his, or her, heavy hand.
Bruce. >:D
Yes, "bended" hands left their traces in many places
Fixing the thermostatic valve in the automatic heater system
The Cadillac is equipped with an automatic climate control system from 1953. It differs from what we're all used to today. Back then, "automatic climate control" simply meant maintaining a constant cabin temperature by adjusting the temperature of the air itself, without switching between heating zones or changing fan speed.
Nevertheless, just having a TEMP knob that let you dial in a chosen temperature—albeit calibrated in "abstract increments"—already set Cadillac apart from, say, Chevrolet.
By now, you might guess something was wrong with this system.
As soon as I tried moving the dampers and the temperature control—now at home, not in Montana—a blast of scorching air hit my feet and face, and there was no way to stop it. Even with the fan switched off, the incoming airflow felt like boiling-hot air on my legs.
It became clear the heater valve wasn't working.
Below are some pictures, along with my comments.
(https://a.d-cd.net/Zd2P4wa1g3nDCZ6R07fPmoNF_Ug-1920.jpg)
From the engine compartment side, removing the rubber cover from the thermostat-valve
(https://a.d-cd.net/gqeXDcol72n9YhtlhWWlEMckE3U-1920.jpg)
Removing the thermostat-valve itself
(https://a.d-cd.net/_DtoB5UjZGxJes0zz5jAJih-MfM-1920.jpg)
This valve works on the same principle as a refrigerator relay (except the fridge relay closes an electrical circuit, while here it mechanically shuts off flow, but the principle is the same)
There's a valve inside that shuts off the flow. Control of that valve involves three things: the position of the temperature control cable (which adjusts spring tension), the springs themselves (one main spring, one adjustment spring), and the power element. The key to this automatic setup is really the power element, which is filled with refrigerant. More on that later, but let's fix what can be fixed first.
(https://a.d-cd.net/e8EU3SnmVVCx2U-w_176wwoey2s-1920.jpg)
The valve stem seal was a bit old and needed replacing. I purchased this rubber part on a site specializing in 1953 Cadillac parts for $40. Later, I realized all these seals are identical (because they were all made by a single supplier, Ranco—provider of heater thermostats and valves for many car brands, including some European) and are sold elsewhere for $5. No big deal
(https://a.d-cd.net/q3XLHuOgziEXCgGSgLYZSpWuvKk-1920.jpg)
Valve components: housing, stem with valve, seal, backing plate
(https://a.d-cd.net/ND07Gd5uwItqpMbgLd8LhcD99Q0-1920.jpg)
Cleaning the mating surface
(https://a.d-cd.net/F1gfMr9Zl0N2BYIiya6Fi8BGQJg-1920.jpg)
Installing the new seal and bending the tabs back to lock it in place
(https://a.d-cd.net/dLXHbktmatrrGWNNZSlVayQaMO0-1920.jpg)
And here is the 'puck' that was completely dead—i.e., empty. Immersing it in water and blowing air through the tube revealed numerous tiny holes in different places
(https://a.d-cd.net/LfJjz7s8eFPpUTH88RKmHVpY2TE-1920.jpg)
Annoying, but nothing to be done... I need to find a rebuild kit that basically doesn't exist">
Sure, you can get a so-called refurbished thermostat for a Cadillac at a price of $500+.
Researching the matter showed that similar thermostats—or more specifically, thermostats with a similar power element—were used in Studebaker and Packard vehicles of that era.
(https://a.d-cd.net/JT2NtJ3qu3IRyAjX9-e9B2ZoCLs-1920.jpg)
That same evening, after discovering the problem, I found a new-old-stock Studebaker thermostat on eBay for $125. So here it is. Of the entire mechanism, I only need the 'puck.'
Imagine my despair when, while trying to straighten the bellows tube, it cracked right where it had been pressed against the housing for many years. Out went the gas, and darkness fell... At that moment, I could've cried. Put yourself in my shoes, and you'll understand.
However, not even the Gods can make pottery without a few burns... So I grabbed my soldering iron, some flux, and sealed the crack.
(https://a.d-cd.net/037WjlSI4lwen6Y7zhIQkE3Hopo-1920.jpg)
Crack at the tube's bend point
(https://a.d-cd.net/31QxNnXt8asjHpT9iIj0ewIaeWM-1920.jpg)
For charging the gas, I made a little device out of a bolt. I drilled a 1/8-inch hole, inserted the tube, tinned it, and then threaded the other end into an A/C charging port to add refrigerant
(https://a.d-cd.net/ZhxMRdJA3xazbtAaO-ucecWIPQg-1920.jpg)
3–4 bar is plenty. The power element starts working, and the second spring handles fine-tuning, which is adjusted by a set screw.
(https://a.d-cd.net/y9R5aXKpdhFbgOZ1bWvJ8IP4MiY-1920.jpg)
The end of the tube is sealed on an anvil. Then the bolt adapter is unsoldered, and the tube tip gets soldered shut.
(https://a.d-cd.net/_x3Vip1rec4JhIthPufxRxxvY0k-1920.jpg)
The power element under pressure. This pressure opposes the springs, which want to keep the valve open at all times.
(https://a.d-cd.net/JmixBIxVnqN9MgtdUKVmgpHwPvU-1920.jpg)
Cleaned the copper and fixed a dent in the fitting using the same technique I used to straighten the antenna cylinder in the previous episode.
(https://a.d-cd.net/Puaiv1gYxqnEAjAhLipU2rMupT4-1920.jpg)
Valve in the open position
(https://a.d-cd.net/5dLX8ssG5XHIbryxvFKw3D9qA7I-1920.jpg)
And here it is closed. In intermediate positions, the valve can be partially open or closed, depending on outside temperature and the power element's internal pressure. That pressure changes with temperature. The principle is exactly like an engine coolant thermostat
(https://a.d-cd.net/wjh565bFxll-Kc-2WalT0Tic5gY-1920.jpg)
Still, my success was short-lived. Once installed in the car, the tube finally gave out, showering me with green refrigerant. With the phrase *this is just wonderful*, I disassembled the valve again and slipped a suitably sized tinned steel sleeve over the area where the tubes meet. Then I charged the gas again and re-soldered the tube's end.
(https://a.d-cd.net/NXOy7sjCn-0St9wSWhcyWFp9JyU-1920.jpg)
After numerous assemblies and disassemblies, one of the locking tabs snapped off.
(https://a.d-cd.net/RIVf3L6lpR5iU9xtHox4c-QbRwQ-1920.jpg)
I had to use a not-so-beautifully looking, but reliable solution.
(https://a.d-cd.net/j8tTuBmHm8zU1J45m0Av7Gt7Dd0-1920.jpg)
Stainless steel screws in place
(https://a.d-cd.net/Woe_zU_1N2bE-WDo06CC4qESAKA-1920.jpg)
Mounted it in the car, attached the cable
(https://a.d-cd.net/ZlwyCC8z2it9uuD-COyCWZ41WDw-1920.jpg)
Replaced the deteriorating foam gaskets on the dampers
(https://a.d-cd.net/0JWRC5iKomfM-AbBCcsim-_-d6s-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/lTFZ_DpvMP7h98Kcj6YEjYVjG5M-1920.jpg)
The bellows tube goes into the air distribution box. Hot or cold air flows over it, causing the power element's pressure to increase or decrease. This makes the valve open or close. Obviously, the TEMP knob setting matters here.
Once it became a bit cooler in December, I did the fine-tune of the spring tension using that set screw so the midpoint on the TEMP scale corresponds to about 23 °C (74 °F) in the cabin.
This is really interesting. I've rebuilt the valve on my 56, and it's got a dual capillary tube on it. I had 3 valves to start with, one had one of the tubes broken off, one was apparently cracked and the gas had leaked out rendering it useless, but the 3rd one was still operational.
I happened to have a new valve for a 57 Chevrolet, so I took the seal and used it to fix the Cadillac valve. I wasn't aware that the seal is still available new. Would you be willing to provide a contact for these?
I really like your method of repairing the pipe, very ingenious. I don't recall how I straightened mine, it's been over 7 or 8 years since I did this.
What I found extremely interesting is that the capillary tube is repairable. I was under the impression that once the gas had escaped, you had to find another one.
If I may ask, can you post a picture or two of this modified bolt you used to recharge the tube?
I'm trying to figure out how you got the R12 hose to connect to it. This will come in handy if I should ever need to repair mine.
I do remember taking the tubes and straightening them using a 6-inch wide vise, and then carefully rolling them up into a loop until it was time to install it.
I think I posted something about it on here years ago, I'll have to try to find it again.
Thank you very much for posting your excellent process and experience with this, it's been a pleasure to read.
Rick
PS, would you know if the capillary tube and "puck" system used on the A/C thermostatic control also uses freon in it? I've done some work on mine to get the heating wire replaced on it and they solder the wire to the end of the tube. I had one blow out the gas while I was trying to solder a new resistance wire to it and had to find another tube for it.
Thinking about this, if you crimp the tube just below the sealed end, I think you should be able to solder the wire to it then without releasing the gas.
The wire uses the end of the tube as a grounding point and when energized it heats the tube to regulate the temperature.
I can't remember what the type of wire used is called, another member here (Jose Gomez) told me about it though and I was able to buy a roll. I posted my rebuild experience with it on here too, but it's been probably 3 or 4 years ago now.
If I had known that you could recharge the tube, it would have made the process a lot easier.
Thanks again for posting this.
Edit: after much searching I found the thread on the A/C
thermostat repair.
https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/index.php?topic=171656.0
I'm still looking for the heater valve repair thread. Now I'm not sure if I posted a separate thread or added to an existing one.
Are you sure you're not an instructor at a technical/trade school?
Yikes!!!!you brought back many submerged memories... When my auto adjusting valves failed (sometime in the early 1970's when I was daily commuting 90 miles), my work-around was a hot water gate valve near the firewall that blocked the coolant flow to the heater cores in the kick panels. Neither convenient nor elegant. You're patient and highly talented . Bravo!
Quote from: Cadman-iac on December 28, 2024, 07:39:42 AMIf I may ask, can you post a picture or two of this modified bolt you used to recharge the tube?
I'm trying to figure out how you got the R12 hose to connect to it. This will come in handy if I should ever need to repair mine.
You will want to take bolt 7/16-20 - this 100% matches the R12 connector thread. Drill a hole equal to the tube diameter + a little bit :-), solder it, and here we go. After you pump the gas, bend the edge of the tube near the bolt=connector with a thin hammer - it will already seal it. Then cut the tube, then solder the edge to keep it sealed forever
Quote from: Cadman-iac on December 28, 2024, 07:39:42 AMI happened to have a new valve for a 57 Chevrolet, so I took the seal and used it to fix the Cadillac valve. I wasn't aware that the seal is still available new. Would you be willing to provide a contact for these?
Are you sure you're not an instructor at a technical/trade school?
Here is the seal you want to have in order to fix leaking valve
Link to ebay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/293950202098?_skw=ranco+valve+seal&itmmeta=01JG74ZPCDX5KKHRT009WJ919Z&hash=item4470cc20f2:g:RLkAAOSwMdVf-74F&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKnJgJT3T%2FIQ7mpn44Od6au8UnFMa2Qgw6c1K5RaQmOuz7CvWNDPPVdPIB8qds9EHbnlQS%2BC36PYE0texAYTUdBHoj90BjyGWUQ07kTKxoVppDcJenMHhiJLAAd3geRU7woU2XaAb3Ox1haBjHWMBo73wPl%2Fov6TwEwJMO%2FCvpOMdRUDFeV%2BGIQ13BClqCDmBQS3mqgiPqxPo2E%2BLAKQUQloJtA4wUcOnFWteDyEe1Pf1%2Fpv9oJWOpUi7xWR%2BZMVrpUVvkv2MPfp6B%2Bt10BjbGBkYM%2B7JpH0ayscKZ2pdlayug%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR6bm_uSBZQ)
And no, I am not an instructor, I am a Program manager in R&D in the largest Oil&Gas Service Company
Air Conditioner: Compressor.I wasn't happy with how noisy the A/C compressor was. More precisely, there was a knocking sound (you can see it in the video at the end). Removing and repairing my own compressor is risky, because I could end up with nothing at all if something goes wrong.
That's why I picked up a similar 1954 compressor on eBay (no chance to find a '53 one). It's exactly like mine, but with one significant improvement: it has a split clutch assembly. In other words, the compressor doesn't spin constantly; it only engages when the pull-in solenoid receives a control signal. Otherwise, it's the same A4 model.
The seller listed it for $90; I haggled it down to $60 plus $120 for shipping (the baby weighs 80 lbs!). With tax, the total came to $197.
You can imagine my disappointment when I unpacked the box and saw a broken mounting ear.
(https://a.d-cd.net/Bru5szSzGm-hIaurSRW3W4oL6cs-1920.jpg)
General view of the *experimental* compressor
(https://a.d-cd.net/nxSpqasDznpAt4IjE602m7nOj30-1920.jpg)
Broken ear. The housing is cast iron
(https://a.d-cd.net/N-8PBdmDpHijcoG0o7KPLLzBbM0-1920.jpg)
Seriously?!
(https://a.d-cd.net/JHRM2hCIAdauc_h4lg1MUAqP71Y-1920.jpg)
So what do I do with this beast now?
(https://a.d-cd.net/6_zGL_5rVtPCsTivdi_arxKVwhY-1920.jpg)
Such a shame
I wrote to the seller in a slightly annoyed tone: why charge $120 for shipping if you can't pack it properly? I asked for a refund. The guy didn't argue, apologized, and refunded the full $197.Okay, it didn't hurt quite as much as at the very beginning. After all, I did get a housing to experiment with (I'd thought about putting a modern compressor inside this housing).
I started slowly tearing down the compressor to understand its internals (there isn't a single blow-up diagram anywhere, just a barely comprehensible cross-sectional drawing)...
(https://a.d-cd.net/9HGXGecl-5BY4joIgjbsVdd2EeI-1920.jpg)
Taking apart the two-disc clutch
(https://a.d-cd.net/XbE-ImXh14Az30018DHKpyJLFSQ-1920.jpg)
So far, so good
(https://a.d-cd.net/wyThWZsU7WqXRjRYYJZk_tRyC1k-1920.jpg)
No visible wear
(https://a.d-cd.net/mPnSy_x3eHLa8fSzmoikX2Fsagw-1920.jpg)
The clutch fits onto the shaft in only one orientation (note the splines), because it also serves as an external balancer for the compressor's crankshaft
(https://a.d-cd.net/qNzBSj3_pB-wv3fn5izNbyv1aOI-1920.jpg)
Rear side of the pulley. Nothing too alarming here. Not sure where the oil came from—could be the seal, could be the bearing in the clutch that leaked a bit
(https://a.d-cd.net/-ch3GtbolIktKXDFtEvrUg1yQL8-1920.jpg)
Quite dirty
(https://a.d-cd.net/TAQI8PMzK9m3-fZXBI_QStmvgl0-1920.jpg)
All cleaned up
(https://a.d-cd.net/JuOcGxG3FH7tpyg1FG4BshZfENA-1920.jpg)
Removed the seal flange, and surprise: the seal popped out, and the compressor started leaking oil with bubbles!
(https://a.d-cd.net/JdQz2u4p8VKXKqyD64xIyFcOEQ4-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/4UqlOB3zR-vY_2OBm1xuJfL8_pE-1920.jpg)
The actual sealing is done against a polished copper-bronze surface
Bubbles coming up. That means the compressor is still holding pressure! And judging by its appearance, it's been sitting in someone's storage room for decades.
(https://a.d-cd.net/hezAAHtWLVGaDKsV6RGOxJeGMag-1920.jpg)
Puller for the neoprene seal
(https://a.d-cd.net/yp62lGeMSG0x0VFBmmuqiJjzg3Y-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/w9mt4HZvDKdp1YzTbtTyeq_kIk8-1920.jpg)
Seal removed
(https://a.d-cd.net/kq6GHgvrmX-fqPdEV9w_iQw55gI-1920.jpg)
Inside, everything is impeccably clean, and the oil is clear
At that moment I realized there's no point in destroying this compressor. Quite the opposite: I should rebuild it and install it on the car. I had various ideas about the seal. You can buy a new old-stock seal for $300 (not kidding), but I started searching by size for alternatives and found nothing. So I decided to leave the seal alone. If the compressor was still pressurized, then the seal must be okay.
(https://a.d-cd.net/8aFw95vDnsrCV5BBIeZczHhpDyU-1920.jpg)
The actual sealing is done by a spring-loaded copper-bronze contact surface
(https://a.d-cd.net/4jfT1VceOH--_m7CITPnXr-mdeg-1920.jpg)
Pressure plate cleaned up
(https://a.d-cd.net/ntWK2TTLbou7VT5OsJKQwx4yMEw-1920.jpg)
Fresh oil. 1 quart is $18
(https://a.d-cd.net/fEiCyLL2FGXKnsFTj5pWTp90zFA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/mrwS-JUMCsZRvK_Pyi2nf1iLOaA-1920.jpg)
Secured the seal flange with polyurethane sealant
(https://a.d-cd.net/aytl7YbuXpJu7nIMRchg8KDvv8A-1920.jpg)
All done
Next, I had to decide what to do about the broken mounting ear. I tried to find someone who could weld cast iron but had no luck.
However, as the saying goes, every cloud has a silver lining: I realized I didn't actually need welding. It's unlikely anyone could reliably weld an ear that would support this much weight.
(https://a.d-cd.net/fXLisMp-BZ2jB5S3Mtg0BWAb7qQ-1920.jpg)
Made this bracket from 1/4-inch-thick steel angle. It attaches via two extended 5/16-24 bolts directly into the holes that clamp the two halves of the housing together
(https://a.d-cd.net/lXSsG_4u0FlvoJ3MiVr_lSb-_Rc-1920.jpg)
Test-fitting. There's a gap below between the compressor and the bracket for the rubber mounts.
(https://a.d-cd.net/yTPzBGcM0aMsTfuqr8FiyBnY3UY-1920.jpg)
Then I cleaned the compressor down to bare metal, taped it off, and painted it matte black. Here's the clutch being reassembled. The bracket's painted with black hammered-finish enamel and attached with two new high-strength bolts.
(https://a.d-cd.net/fFX2jsrmKJ-o2MeUQrQv1eWW6b0-1920.jpg)
Ready to be installed
(https://a.d-cd.net/o_ivcKFcdsWCRyo21NWGVXQ6x-g-1920.jpg)
Bracket looks like it's original
(https://a.d-cd.net/9nFO0LY3_pGn0o4cJdUWrOObm8s-1920.jpg)
With the compressor hanging upside down, some oil drained out. After installation, I'll fill it with fresh oil. The manual says it needs 16 ounces, i.e., a full pint (about 480 ml).
(https://a.d-cd.net/hbCsd3tPFUEcZl9Dd8Z2L7WEkCk-1920.jpg)
To remove the old compressor and install the new one, we laid a thick wooden block on top, strapped the compressor to the block, then my son and I lifted the block and extracted it. We reversed the steps to install the new one.
(https://a.d-cd.net/Z8XT47Sjnjn0p0buGd-5OxvirY0-1920.jpg)
Mounting the clutch, filling with oil, hooking up all hoses
(https://a.d-cd.net/hMYgj-YWt7GuAMf7EzmaE8DC7Zw-1920.jpg)
Pressing this little nub releases the clutch
(https://a.d-cd.net/QnOui011-sqdiyT4AiYUtEWd0LU-1920.jpg)
Had to open up the solenoid and polish the contacts, otherwise it wouldn't engage—just sparked.
(https://a.d-cd.net/WH04Cg9j-dCrTqWWO05u54hVwwQ-1920.jpg)
Looks awesome, doesn't it?
(https://a.d-cd.net/16spsBuGGTfkTMRojCuTIFqKras-1920.jpg)
70-year-old technology">
The system is quite clever: the compressor's flange connections each have built-in valves. You close them, and the system pressure doesn't bleed off (remember, it holds more than 7 pounds of Freon!). Then, after installing the compressor, you open the high-pressure valve first and vent the air from the compressor (tested with a lighter—yes, really, that's in the Workshop manual). After that, you open the low-pressure valve. S
o, it means that you don't need a vacuum pump for this procedure.I had to top off the system with a bit more Freon. I have R12 and the charging manifold with gauges for it.
The new old compressor runs quietly and pumps great. Ice-cold air blows from the vents. Mission accomplished once again.
And finally, here's a short video recap.
BRILLIANT!
Quote from: kudims on December 28, 2024, 01:33:20 PMAir Conditioner: Compressor.
I wasn't happy with how noisy the A/C compressor was. More precisely, there was a knocking sound (you can see it in the video at the end). Removing and repairing my own compressor is risky, because I could end up with nothing at all if something goes wrong.
You may want to check my comments on this 1953 Cadillac booklet on Air Conditioning: https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/index.php?topic=171148.msg534793#msg534793
Clay/Lexi
Here is the booklet I was writing about. Clay/Lexi
Quote from: Lexi on December 28, 2024, 04:58:56 PMHere is the booklet I was writing about. Clay/Lexi
I have this book. Not very helpful compared to 1953 shop manual, half of which is devoted to A/C unit
Never know what will or will not assist. I believe the Cadillac Roundtable training aids began about 1952, and I would imagine that if there were a set for 1953, there would almost certainly be an issue devoted to the new world of automotive AC. Perhaps if someone has such an issue, should it exist, they could share it with us. Clay/Lexi
Quote from: Lexi on December 28, 2024, 05:39:14 PMNever know what will or will not assist. I believe the Cadillac Roundtable training aids began about 1952, and I would imagine that if there were a set for 1953, there would almost certainly be an issue devoted to the new world of automotive AC. Perhaps if someone has such an issue, should it exist, they could share it with us. Clay/Lexi
I still want to find time and disassemble my original unit. But before that I need to find and buy another '53 compressor. The probability to build 1 out of 2 much increases 😀
Thanks for the link for the water valve seal, that will come in handy.
How many times do you think you can rebuild one of these before the ears break off of the pipe part of it?
When I did my first one I mistakenly put the mounting plate on it backwards so it sticks out from the firewall instead of being recessed into it. The offset on the bracket is not much, but to the trained eye it'll probably be obvious.
I thought about taking it apart and flipping the bracket, but I was afraid I'd break off one or more of the little retainer ears since it's just copper to start with.
I appreciate your sharing your method of charging the tube too. Very cool idea.
I took a bolt and drilled it out with the smallest bit I've got to see if I could, then cut the head off since the bit quit cutting about halfway through the bolt.
You show your bolt sitting in a die, is that what you held it with when you drilled it? Or was there another reason?
When I first read your reply I thought I've got a bolt that's already drilled. I dug out my collection of brake line bolts, (banjo bolts) and found the one with the smallest hole in it, but unfortunately that was too big.
I also wanted to ask you, what kind of tubing cutter did you use to cut the capillary tube? My smallest cutter was too big, wouldn't even leave a mark on the tube.
Very nice post on your compressor rebuild too. That's an interesting design for the clutch. It looks like the whole thing is internal, just like actuation stub sticks through the pulley part.
I've always been amazed at how things are designed, and I like to see how they change through the years.
Thanks for sharing your experience here.
Rick
These are the two valves I rebuilt. I forgot that the second one did have both tubes on it and worked. The problem with it is as you can see the pipe size is bigger than the other one. I don't remember why it's bigger either, been too long since I did it.
20241228_125926.jpg
My smallest cutter, the extra tubing I have and the bbake bolt. Not compatible.
20241228_124411.jpg
Quote from: Cadman-iac on December 28, 2024, 10:08:08 PMThanks for the link for the water valve seal, that will come in handy.
How many times do you think you can
Mine ear was broken after 4-th disassemble. But you can either solder a new one or use other method to fix it.
Die was shown only to confirm the thread size and fine/coarse.
For original tube which is thin, I used just wire cutter. The tube should have very small inner diameter. 1mm at maximum, but I think it's even less
Let's call it this: brakes with a secret
A quick reminder: 1953 was the last year Cadillac didn't install power brake boosters at the factory. Hydrovac boosters were added by dealers, and starting in 1954, all Cadillacs rolled off the Detroit assembly line with Bendix hydrovac units.
Over the span of 70 years and 35,000 honestly-driven miles (the brake shoes are still factory originals), neither Roberta nor Bill ever thought about installing a brake booster. But times have changed. Once, going downhill in Colorado with a speed 60+, a huge truck pulled out of a parking area in front of us. I had to stand on the brake pedal so hard it felt like my ears were steaming, yet the heavy Cadillac was still stopping rather leisurely... Luckily, there was a concrete shoulder to veer onto, or the situation could have gone out of control.
So, once we got all systems working again after their long dormancy and the handiwork of some less-than-skilled mechanics, upgrading the brakes became a priority.
The goal was to keep it looking as close to original as possible, while adding a brake booster that wouldn't cost us points at any show or competition.
A universal 7-inch-diaphragm brake booster was purchased (https://www.ebay.com/itm/335051107248?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D264184%26meid%3D4b19d69e101c4d409131cf1393864031%26pid%3D101875%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D394915572460%26itm%3D335051107248%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DSimplAMLv11WebTrimmedV3MskuWithLambda85KnnRecallV1V2V4ItemNrtInQueryAndCassiniVisualRankerAndBertRecallWithVMEV3CPCAutoWithCassiniEmbRecall&_trksid=p2332490.c101875.m1851&itmprp=cksum%3A3350511072484b19d69e101c4d409131cf1393864031%7Cenc%3AAQAJAAABcEnLatTXWXNAKPRnYtxVTXN2rJD11TMrqd%252Bc4NcqE%252BNGk6ejyqiKoKTZm%252BWiG7rLUKnmQT96yLmgza78VpCainYj%252Fcd7BbF%252F3JO7HSXt2n3iFYDbns8rSMT0idXbcmlMHWKniLK2o5tYYPmM8KWpVo95tWt2nTiQXMqmKRIMl5gAplMB1Ggx6kVqfXRetLAgGEnW5LyfPI2WYSzGIL2o44pfHdk%252F8GszFhIUV6eMLs7jvqHuLTwvz7jtg3K9qWjdVB7QJahV3Ij6SX4Puccj0oXFcb8eLFL79kT%252B8osMoHSUYvAFT8pjeuyaCuKkQmkj8yiaaSdkMUCUNRJKCvpNJBMQikIVmR3w%252FVSio98jZuKaN968OcT%252ByOyhlVE86vxYvLSzKBnExQHHrDQB6%252BbOewCTQ%252Bax5muKbuqqaHV89yx3XXdsResF4XPvzcViQ7P7YXukLCRRhFxZ4Ql4IYn%252FBBHln%252BpMTagSKKKpvPr7KhCY%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2332490&itmmeta=01JG9FQVVJS2M2V38Z5NZAKMHA), featuring a long pushrod travel (well-suited for drum brakes). It can provide up to 60 bar of boost, which is way more than enough.
(https://a.d-cd.net/jsKTcFkYbVBE5fJhtgXcrgCt-uM-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/027XmvWDMGkeoKynbXi2fBWTLOA-1920.jpg)
Initially, I thought to mount it in the left fender recess where the antenna is. The first test fit was okay but too low. In rainy conditions, water might get into the booster's air filter.
(https://a.d-cd.net/Kkp0aULoI_AYkRh8e8ip70lPa9E-1920.jpg)
A more suitable spot was found between the hood spring and the antenna, below the windshield-washer fluid jar. It's attached to the splash shield (rearward) plus two struts running to the frame and the lower edge of the splash shield.
(https://a.d-cd.net/dtAhVST3yhVrMrV-rvnkn5cZnDw-1920.jpg)
Flaring tool set for brake lines
(https://a.d-cd.net/qfd2UDbX3llglpn2n3OT6H19E0o-1920.jpg)
New lines and fittings
(https://a.d-cd.net/ftM1-xedSEH7PKjesdZzG0SB3eo-1920.jpg)
First line—running from the master cylinder to the booster
(https://a.d-cd.net/4zkeQ7_jmlXKBVKEI5Q2S-2AM5Q-1920.jpg)
The old line (the one sticking out on top) will be replaced.
(https://a.d-cd.net/qeJXp7bueFLsijBhZAFad8nXbCg-1920.jpg)
Wire mock-up for the second line, which goes from the booster to the distribution manifold
(https://a.d-cd.net/iPsAQeIylhAc5BTv2BQUVLQutN8-1920.jpg)
Finished steel (zinc-coated) line with new nuts
(https://a.d-cd.net/HYLm-_EGo8Gzq6qCER8PP1XAq64-1920.jpg)
I'll tap vacuum for the booster from the main vacuum manifold that feeds the wipers, the radio antenna, and the washer. A tee fitting adapts 1/4-inch to 5/16-inch.
(https://a.d-cd.net/mrzTi5iwS6Mio7XuR6qjuzKI-Fo-1920.jpg)
Here's how the booster looks from above, if you peer inside the fender with removed windshield washer jar.
(https://a.d-cd.net/vXFcwDMmOWXruXZIvotl4Q3I4pI-1920.jpg)
The new line follows the same route as the original one.
(https://a.d-cd.net/03sYMSVL2zwN2QpKYkcgNI_fHJ4-1920.jpg)
Nothing rubs, and there's space for the special hood-spring removal lever (just in case).
(https://a.d-cd.net/nz_2CpCpypUNPdrazeYeOtSnzs8-1920.jpg)
New line at the master cylinder
(https://a.d-cd.net/dOD-1dAVRxCjyPtyyYv6ux49sSg-1920.jpg)
Lines routing down to the frame
(https://a.d-cd.net/qu_5MUwpCcopLER49NxoWIr05wA-1920.jpg)
In my opinion, it turned out really well.
(https://a.d-cd.net/TXGK8AKUpQ62kQDhu-5IN2QU4Qs-1920.jpg)
With the washer fluid jar in place, it's nearly impossible to see the brake booster.
(https://a.d-cd.net/1920SXXRzr2g1wSe6yd9BFbbdKM-1920.jpg)
This is how the vacuum tee looks—hidden behind the right cylinder head, under the battery tray.
I bled the brakes with my son, then took the car out for a test drive. Let me just say — I really would need ABS now. :-)
At a light pedal press, the car stops dead in its tracks, and if I really push the pedal at 5 mph or faster, all four wheels lock up.
Regardless of what people say, drum brakes with a proper booster can be extremely effective. Their main downside compared to disc brakes is a more complex design, with more components, greater mass and inertia, plus the need for either precise manual adjustment (0.4mm between the shoe and a drum) or a fairly intricate auto-adjusting mechanism for the clearance between the shoes and the drums.
Quote from: kudims on December 29, 2024, 10:26:43 AMLet's call it this: brakes with a secret
A quick reminder: 1953 was the last year Cadillac didn't install power brake boosters at the factory. Hydrovac boosters were added by dealers, and starting in 1954, all Cadillacs rolled off the Detroit assembly line with Bendix hydrovac units.
Over the span of 70 years and 35,000 honestly-driven miles (the brake shoes are still factory originals), neither Roberta nor Bill ever thought about installing a brake booster. But times have changed. Once, going downhill in Colorado with a speed 60+, a huge truck pulled out of a parking area in front of us. I had to stand on the brake pedal so hard it felt like my ears were steaming, yet the heavy Cadillac was still stopping rather leisurely... Luckily, there was a concrete shoulder to veer onto, or the situation could have gone out of control.
So, once we got all systems working again after their long dormancy and the handiwork of some less-than-skilled mechanics, upgrading the brakes became a priority.
The goal was to keep it looking as close to original as possible, while adding a brake booster that wouldn't cost us points at any show or competition.
A universal 7-inch-diaphragm brake booster was purchased (https://www.ebay.com/itm/335051107248?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D264184%26meid%3D4b19d69e101c4d409131cf1393864031%26pid%3D101875%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D394915572460%26itm%3D335051107248%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DSimplAMLv11WebTrimmedV3MskuWithLambda85KnnRecallV1V2V4ItemNrtInQueryAndCassiniVisualRankerAndBertRecallWithVMEV3CPCAutoWithCassiniEmbRecall&_trksid=p2332490.c101875.m1851&itmprp=cksum%3A3350511072484b19d69e101c4d409131cf1393864031%7Cenc%3AAQAJAAABcEnLatTXWXNAKPRnYtxVTXN2rJD11TMrqd%252Bc4NcqE%252BNGk6ejyqiKoKTZm%252BWiG7rLUKnmQT96yLmgza78VpCainYj%252Fcd7BbF%252F3JO7HSXt2n3iFYDbns8rSMT0idXbcmlMHWKniLK2o5tYYPmM8KWpVo95tWt2nTiQXMqmKRIMl5gAplMB1Ggx6kVqfXRetLAgGEnW5LyfPI2WYSzGIL2o44pfHdk%252F8GszFhIUV6eMLs7jvqHuLTwvz7jtg3K9qWjdVB7QJahV3Ij6SX4Puccj0oXFcb8eLFL79kT%252B8osMoHSUYvAFT8pjeuyaCuKkQmkj8yiaaSdkMUCUNRJKCvpNJBMQikIVmR3w%252FVSio98jZuKaN968OcT%252ByOyhlVE86vxYvLSzKBnExQHHrDQB6%252BbOewCTQ%252Bax5muKbuqqaHV89yx3XXdsResF4XPvzcViQ7P7YXukLCRRhFxZ4Ql4IYn%252FBBHln%252BpMTagSKKKpvPr7KhCY%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2332490&itmmeta=01JG9FQVVJS2M2V38Z5NZAKMHA), featuring a long pushrod travel (well-suited for drum brakes). It can provide up to 60 bar of boost, which is way more than enough.
(https://a.d-cd.net/jsKTcFkYbVBE5fJhtgXcrgCt-uM-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/027XmvWDMGkeoKynbXi2fBWTLOA-1920.jpg)
Initially, I thought to mount it in the left fender recess where the antenna is. The first test fit was okay but too low. In rainy conditions, water might get into the booster's air filter.
(https://a.d-cd.net/Kkp0aULoI_AYkRh8e8ip70lPa9E-1920.jpg)
A more suitable spot was found between the hood spring and the antenna, below the windshield-washer fluid jar. It's attached to the splash shield (rearward) plus two struts running to the frame and the lower edge of the splash shield.
(https://a.d-cd.net/dtAhVST3yhVrMrV-rvnkn5cZnDw-1920.jpg)
Flaring tool set for brake lines
(https://a.d-cd.net/qfd2UDbX3llglpn2n3OT6H19E0o-1920.jpg)
New lines and fittings
(https://a.d-cd.net/ftM1-xedSEH7PKjesdZzG0SB3eo-1920.jpg)
First line—running from the master cylinder to the booster
(https://a.d-cd.net/4zkeQ7_jmlXKBVKEI5Q2S-2AM5Q-1920.jpg)
The old line (the one sticking out on top) will be replaced.
(https://a.d-cd.net/qeJXp7bueFLsijBhZAFad8nXbCg-1920.jpg)
Wire mock-up for the second line, which goes from the booster to the distribution manifold
(https://a.d-cd.net/iPsAQeIylhAc5BTv2BQUVLQutN8-1920.jpg)
Finished steel (zinc-coated) line with new nuts
(https://a.d-cd.net/HYLm-_EGo8Gzq6qCER8PP1XAq64-1920.jpg)
I'll tap vacuum for the booster from the main vacuum manifold that feeds the wipers, the radio antenna, and the washer. A tee fitting adapts 1/4-inch to 5/16-inch.
(https://a.d-cd.net/mrzTi5iwS6Mio7XuR6qjuzKI-Fo-1920.jpg)
Here's how the booster looks from above, if you peer inside the fender with removed windshield washer jar.
(https://a.d-cd.net/vXFcwDMmOWXruXZIvotl4Q3I4pI-1920.jpg)
The new line follows the same route as the original one.
(https://a.d-cd.net/03sYMSVL2zwN2QpKYkcgNI_fHJ4-1920.jpg)
Nothing rubs, and there's space for the special hood-spring removal lever (just in case).
(https://a.d-cd.net/nz_2CpCpypUNPdrazeYeOtSnzs8-1920.jpg)
New line at the master cylinder
(https://a.d-cd.net/dOD-1dAVRxCjyPtyyYv6ux49sSg-1920.jpg)
Lines routing down to the frame
(https://a.d-cd.net/qu_5MUwpCcopLER49NxoWIr05wA-1920.jpg)
In my opinion, it turned out really well.
(https://a.d-cd.net/TXGK8AKUpQ62kQDhu-5IN2QU4Qs-1920.jpg)
With the washer fluid jar in place, it's nearly impossible to see the brake booster.
(https://a.d-cd.net/1920SXXRzr2g1wSe6yd9BFbbdKM-1920.jpg)
This is how the vacuum tee looks—hidden behind the right cylinder head, under the battery tray.
I bled the brakes with my son, then took the car out for a test drive. Let me just say — I really would need ABS now. :-)
At a light pedal press, the car stops dead in its tracks, and if I really push the pedal at 5 mph or faster, all four wheels lock up.
Regardless of what people say, drum brakes with a proper booster can be extremely effective. Their main downside compared to disc brakes is a more complex design, with more components, greater mass and inertia, plus the need for either precise manual adjustment (0.4mm between the shoe and a drum) or a fairly intricate auto-adjusting mechanism for the clearance between the shoes and the drums.
Agreed re drum brakes.
Nice job, looks great and sounds like it works just as well as it looks.
Nice booster's addition! I'm surprised that you are using millimeters and not inches (which is an archaic system)!
"Regardless of what people say, drum brakes with a proper booster can be extremely effective. Their main downside compared to disc brakes is a more complex design, with more components, greater mass and inertia, plus the need for either precise manual adjustment (0.4mm between the shoe and a drum) or a fairly intricate auto-adjusting mechanism for the clearance between the shoes and the drums."
You validated my suspicions. I owned perhaps a dozen fully depreciated 50's and 60's Cadillacs with drum brakes up through the mid 1980's, and I'm now convinced that brake replacement parts on my old cars were likely not well installed and bleeding was likely not properly performed. FOr example, my '67 Eldorado had drums, and had weak brakes, even though parts were replaced several times over my 12 years of ownership.
Quote from: Roger Zimmermann on December 30, 2024, 02:28:09 AMNice booster's addition! I'm surprised that you are using millimeters and not inches (which is an archaic system)!
I use both (have to), but as I am from Russia originally, then mm for at least small sizes are more exact and convenient than inches. Like 0.4mm for brakes is better than the same dimension in inches
Deep Polishing
It all started, as it often does, with something small and insignificant: there was a shallow scratch on the roof that I wanted to polish out. That scratch led to polishing the entire roof, and from there, well... the rest of the car followed.
Here's what I used for polishing:
3M sandpaper, 1500- and 2000-grit
A set of 3M compounds (4 types, from coarse to wax)
Separate polishing pads for each compound
Separate cloths for each compound
A polisher with a feature that maintains RPM regardless of load
(https://a.d-cd.net/ZSTXNw7DCZyoeTLse5E_3-_QPN8-1920.jpg)
The compounds
(https://a.d-cd.net/QhNDugaBTdM5dcj4tx0qKssWT-4-1920.jpg)
Cloths and polishing pads
(https://a.d-cd.net/RdD7Sk5xSK-_bXapuNJFJqNqJtM-1920.jpg)
The polisher
For a proper polishing job, you really need to remove all the trim, which can reveal various surprises (though I got lucky this time and avoided any).
(https://a.d-cd.net/sgGVJDS-SRB7H5yemMzTaLLt9ls-1920.jpg)
Removed hood emblems. The crest will be replaced (around $800), and the "bird" emblem, now faded, will be re-plated in gold.
(https://a.d-cd.net/wIawz8lZXU2gBT9dsbFCQ-skK2E-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/bteRHjDC0oQ87ghVLOF0lhy6XLE-1920.jpg)
Hood and fender are done
(https://a.d-cd.net/Z0ra_DL8miWcshA4wbZuc2yPxvg-1920.jpg)
Removing the trunk's A/C intake scoops from inside. They were stuck pretty well—old rubber bonding everything together. I scuffed the surface that was never really polished at the factory.
(https://a.d-cd.net/sCL0dMoI710bwf7V5A2_T-JSrHo-1920.jpg)
Couldn't fully remove the rubber marks, but hopefully the new seal will cover it.
(https://a.d-cd.net/Mp-Ifaz0a0JboweqtQEbCirrjd8-1920.jpg)
Polished and reassembled intake
(https://a.d-cd.net/1T_c2lsIF5jlg_2DSQNquDK2s-M-1920.jpg)
New rubber seals, good quality
(https://a.d-cd.net/zUA7r5LsfJ4nwVtFygOY0wJ3syk-1920.jpg)
All the moldings came off without a hitch. The hardened, factory-painted clips (red primer) were in perfect shape, and there was no dirt under the trim.
(https://a.d-cd.net/n2Qww5l7C0wnYC8QKtNisLLBwFg-1920.jpg)
After washing
(https://a.d-cd.net/CimxL-Jr5XRVX52vANayYG1U6fc-1920.jpg)
Reinstalled in place. Stainless hardware on the lower sections
(https://a.d-cd.net/BIDgCpGiq8EaZZyAmCuAnmw859s-1920.jpg)
Same process on the other side
(https://a.d-cd.net/IXnfIHgCEmd0pk5vAew_hp6SoXc-1920.jpg)
Removed all badges and the lock from the trunk. The lock's rubber seal had disintegrated—time to replace it too.
(https://a.d-cd.net/tIrRumBSd1raelgfpy9Ad7OSaJQ-1920.jpg)
Trunk finished
Now I'm moving on to the sides. The door handles come off from the end (I'll show how below), and the moldings are mounted via studs... so the doors must be partially disassembled.
(https://a.d-cd.net/stoDs_JOmEaMkxEE4FI4EBK2FLE-1920.jpg)
Mounting for the vertical trim on the rear door. The old, dried-out rubber gaskets were replaced with butyl sealant.
(https://a.d-cd.net/LwO_76lDV2kriZ6af9VVoxwiZ0A-1920.jpg)
Interior condition of the door
(https://a.d-cd.net/r4rpWItj4KryQxZmUGvKl41lNZU-1920.jpg)
Here and the next one
(https://a.d-cd.net/oEw9LasqHhUuU0p-fNRKjGgIzzY-1920.jpg)
On the left side, I added a small access cover similar to the right side's setup. It had been overlooked previously, especially after some repainting on that door.
(https://a.d-cd.net/cIMezk1hTKTxXAuHUlnEhDvVzgM-1920.jpg)
Soundproofing pads
(https://a.d-cd.net/-aHrkgjbK4b6P8gqrBdi5ZK-RL8-1920.jpg)
Door hardware
(https://a.d-cd.net/6e2F1GUxRNHv_AGTuMkh0tfw31g-1920.jpg)
To remove the door handle, you slide the retaining clip from the door's edge. Then you tap it back in when you reassemble.
(https://a.d-cd.net/W40u9-f_8vMZMFevdroKAkJHJlo-1920.jpg)
Right rear fender after my work
(https://a.d-cd.net/su_R5KbdjnchfAezhE53-9L9N5k-1920.jpg)
Right door in progress. Under the vertical "gills" (lower portion of the door), some paint had flaked off down to the red primer. I left it for now, just brushing on some wax-based preservative.
(https://a.d-cd.net/z8eBJk-4vLuJEnSMCMwNrg04anQ-1920.jpg)
After polishing
(https://a.d-cd.net/XC2OzwQ6eGbSdoL6wGQvLjyEPUA-1920.jpg)
Condition inside the molding before reinstallation. Sealed against moisture and wind with butyl.
(https://a.d-cd.net/-tGpklJZhssSAgOIwiQc26r83Lw-1920.jpg)
Door reassembled
(https://a.d-cd.net/Je1GhLwYF_5K7g4wbJBZFwE7ir4-1920.jpg)
A couple more shots
(https://a.d-cd.net/DoMt75L_UQRjp66XiHmNWm58MYk-1920.jpg)
Cleaning up the vertical rear-door molding
(https://a.d-cd.net/SNKsszC1LIZOenp4MTPC4K5nRr0-1920.jpg)
Reassembled, ready for installation
(https://a.d-cd.net/-ckyGR4ZQX_x8Qc230vcs-yzNEo-1920.jpg)
The bulging section of the rear door has been repainted. The paint line is along the molding and recess. It was done without disassembly—typical for local shortcuts.
(https://a.d-cd.net/x0oeeXGwEqN0bV-PLTRkhc3Qweo-1920.jpg)
Reassembling the rear fender skirt after polishing
(https://a.d-cd.net/ql-QUSu3VqYuIcv55-oc11hcdXY-1920.jpg)
With moldings installed
(https://a.d-cd.net/U6-CAG7oCOPRX0qZ1SXb_0IXJ-w-1920.jpg)
When removing the A/C intake scoops, the rubber bellows crumbled. I ordered new ones, 3 inches in diameter.
(https://a.d-cd.net/2WcIhBC6sy2eEQ4kWVQLSCAl67w-1920.jpg)
New bellows and a new drain tube secured with butyl sealant ("sticky stuff"). Specifically, the rubber tube isn't just any tube; it has a little "mushroom" on one end (factory design), which I stuck in place from inside the duct. Silicone or glue won't hold it, so butyl was the best solution. Replacing these bellows required fully removing the fans—quite a job.
(https://a.d-cd.net/msC5TaVulSSgTfdpRkuj6vALCJk-1920.jpg)
Trunk nearly reassembled and vacuumed. The lower mat is being washed.
(https://a.d-cd.net/G8NU0f98o8stfzs4ruHwmOqHqg4-1920.jpg)
Freshly washed mat... well, sort of. I soaked it in a cleaning solution on the concrete floor and started scrubbing with a brush. The old material began to disintegrate, so I just rinsed off the detergent with a shower hose and hung it over a fence to drip-dry, no wringing. This is temporary, because eventually I'll replace it with original-spec material, matching both texture and color.
(https://a.d-cd.net/etLIwgVk3fwKpEoptxir1OSGB2o-1920.jpg)
Rolled the car out to check for any leaks in the air-intake drains.
(https://a.d-cd.net/aFoJ2bcjgsg7EkBUdlKopVoXpuA-1920.jpg)
The test is simple: direct a water hose into the intake scoops. The water should drain out through the tubes above the rear axle (one on each side), leaving the trunk dry. Test passed!
And here are some pictures of the car after it was polished
(https://a.d-cd.net/PvDM74PQ06TNV8r5H_uMKg5JC_M-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/VSJHyWdS6gd0Oz-4wKZ7lwnd4tA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/0l2Q_krAPt2fU-cF_PiveJf-jWI-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/UpoRroLLfK-6jFpdXYi48PSG90E-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/tjjBCWkB3koK4rWaucq4fx4XzFE-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/0PTsUOnUjT1P8JTx9VDklv1siVs-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/DQZvxgL1vtW3s95MefCx0x_Ysr0-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/jUOOwESqw1KcLMspH-7DEI6k_OI-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/cndSB6k2Ay4ZW7P1YyVYHoVq_1U-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/5Ml9nDrKbXVa-5I1XmSSs-2UVk4-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/FeUgBARpE4fGPPJWGM97-LHw0bA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/TagOJmPpvqGXbYswZq6wo8BC6m0-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/NsJJjDi9e6dLF0P6KRsT0a_Yc3s-1920.jpg)
You did a great job, with an eye for every detail. Black is a grateful color to polish. Hats off!
Superb restoration... and with AC!!!! Absolute perfection.
Beautiful car!! If I didn't know better, I'd say it was new.
Great job on your restoration work, it's paid off, you can sit back now and enjoy it, (preferably in the driver's seat)!!
Thanks for sharing your experience here.
Rick
Interesting history on the car and former family. I'm amazed that you can get all this information.
Well documented vehicle, which will help in a future sale.
Rick
Generally the case that inheritors of family cars, homes,and contents want nothing to do with dying or dead relatives' possessions. They simply want to "cash out" as expeditiously as possible. Grandma and grandpa's well maintained Cadillac is now subject for quick cash sale. The 3 cars we own are such examples--- pennies on the dollar, low mileage, well maintained, comfortable, reliable, and suiting our purposes just fine.
After the list of main issues was fixed (here is a short reminder):
1. The power steering barely provided any assistance—practically none at all.
2. The automatic high beam-to-low beam switch (Autronic eye) wasn't functioning.
3. The Carter carburetor needed an overhaul and adjustment. The idle speed compensator for the air conditioner wasn't working, nor was the cold-start system. And there were other minor issues.
4. The air conditioning system was barely cooling.
5. All the seals in the automatic climate control system's air ducts had dried out and crumbled, causing hot air to blow onto the legroom.
6. The heater thermostat wasn't working.
7. The windshield wipers operated weakly and ineffectively.
8. The windshield washer wasn't working.
9. The clock wasn't functional.
10. The trip odometer didn't work.
11. The fuel pump wasn't performing properly, with frequent vapor lock issues.
12. The vacuum pump, integrated into the fuel pump, was also not functioning.
13. Braking was nearly impossible without the vacuum booster.
14. The hydraulic cylinder for the left rear door window was leaking, leaving the window stuck in the down position.
15. On the last stretch of the 2,200-mile journey home, the right brake cylinder began leaking.
16. Various electrical problems, including frayed wiring in some areas.
17. The driveshaft universal joints required replacement; the grease had dried out over 70 years, causing wear that became noticeable near home.
18. The starter only engaged on the third attempt, due to an issue with the solenoid.
19. Vacuum spark advance was not working
20. Vacuum antenna was not working
21. A/C compressor was making a knocking sound during operation
I decided to start more deep dive.
Universal joints on the propeller shaft had to be replaced, and as I pull out the shaft, the rear hydramatic seal also had to be replaced.
(https://a.d-cd.net/fbhHoWJ9TE6c8Ux6YSXSH0TlNDg-1920.jpg)
Propeller shaft sanded to bare metal
(https://a.d-cd.net/boTS_cf4jI5Ulek63CbgzwCKQc0-1920.jpg)
And coated with satin black using the roller. No spray paints for these types of job, as the layer will be too thin.
(https://a.d-cd.net/7xTrQPRwYkH53VEzEALj0jCzVDA-1920.jpg)
Rear seal in the process of pulling out
(https://a.d-cd.net/GXl64KgawS10KwdH71Nbz_wqooQ-1920.jpg)
Neither of these were helpful
(https://a.d-cd.net/6Wt3qQANmuZDYRXIg_b8Lax0MJw-1920.jpg)
But this helped with the 146% of success
(https://a.d-cd.net/clpzVk9C0AiFYZxQY_tyyw0JrMY-1920.jpg)
Pry bar that was used to pull the seal
(https://a.d-cd.net/owLCE-AZcanV00FSmdIuoi3uV8U-1920.jpg)
Original guy from 1953
(https://a.d-cd.net/pkom_QZXe7p9NjyqYrG8AIj-NJI-1920.jpg)
New guy from 2024
(https://a.d-cd.net/L9u4iSc95hV7NnJAMBqwgNvBIaU-1920.jpg)
Reference #
(https://a.d-cd.net/o-ad8ozCtxpyAE11LzM4xenMSVI-1920.jpg)
Installation was also a challenge
(https://a.d-cd.net/cQ-5daG7J6bqtmGSu1udbAii4Uo-1920.jpg)
Used this type of hardware to push the seal back
(https://a.d-cd.net/z83LhpS2JwLgwxTXmMEg-XszsY0-1920.jpg)
... and this fork from the bearing separator tool
(https://a.d-cd.net/C-miOvWXYZfm_VHMk6p8vROoIOE-1920.jpg)
This is how it goes into transmission
(https://a.d-cd.net/szhSOfAu-DVATF0mSlvYGmYd690-1920.jpg)
Delivered...
(https://a.d-cd.net/rjbeMzHh71pzYufN08z2he_LHdw-1920.jpg)
Now removing universal joints
(https://a.d-cd.net/tCaBI3aCa8ugiOWGjlFKSwoELbQ-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/QQoaCgDQ4d7Dbn64LtoK32pKdwc-1920.jpg)
Front spline yoke
(https://a.d-cd.net/yTYOR7BGKtWGQP7v4IZ2Fzm73FI-1920.jpg)
Surface is perfect
(https://a.d-cd.net/imQD1UvNSPswmqXcoF7dEkcz_Qc-1920.jpg)
New joints
(https://a.d-cd.net/alL7qjE3KRb-1Ir5XBsolShJTD8-1920.jpg)
This is front
(https://a.d-cd.net/B2ltUJ91oiUxxNVW1TdKlGiLhLE-1920.jpg)
Rear
(https://a.d-cd.net/z_5fUdg3TmPoUWRHImauYwZTfEg-1920.jpg)
Pressing in...
(https://a.d-cd.net/vu8YugXZyfOQy90ZtgF-EFs2bMI-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/QMaHqkrbUWjpty_ypckYufkUHBU-1920.jpg)
Front is ready
(https://a.d-cd.net/EST05c2M6wUds4VLEb7cwKpaSWg-1920.jpg)
Rear
(https://a.d-cd.net/9jgYpBbA_HK1aBq5dr1ezasM1qQ-1920.jpg)
Old joints
(https://a.d-cd.net/Scg0nAbhBC-Imw7ATxGzFyCHeoo-1920.jpg)
Failure reason is obvious: the grease has dried inside during 70 years, and the joint died
(https://a.d-cd.net/CfSadmZhYerXIP4tOWmgL5oHRU0-1920.jpg)
But even with these issues there was no any type of vibrations, etc.
(https://a.d-cd.net/rTzqBGPe11-XalDW4ugL4oixXS4-1920.jpg)
Installed and tested. No vibrations, no leaks from rear end of transmission
(https://a.d-cd.net/T1wbxvVMs7wL78bwvJNyki2x0h8-1920.jpg)
In next episode we will work with brakes, rear axle, and front suspension
Quote from: James Landi on January 01, 2025, 08:41:33 AMGenerally the case that inheritors of family cars, homes,and contents want nothing to do with dying or dead relatives' possessions. They simply want to "cash out" as expeditiously as possible. Grandma and grandpa's well maintained Cadillac is now subject for quick cash sale. The 3 cars we own are such examples--- pennies on the dollar, low mileage, well maintained, comfortable, reliable, and suiting our purposes just fine.
Agree. And btw this is the reason why I managed to buy this car at ~3 times less price than the car with such story, milage, options, and condition would be sold at Mecum.
I wonder why the sale price of the original owners home fluctuated up and down so much over the years? I would expect a gradual increase due to inflation even in a lesser neighborhood.
This turned out to be a great thread. Good presentation of the mechanical restoration and the story of the original owner.
Quote from: Tom Boehm on January 01, 2025, 11:33:17 AMI wonder why the sale price of the original owners home fluctuated up and down so much over the years? I would expect a gradual increase due to inflation even in a lesser neighborhood.
This turned out to be a great thread. Good presentation of the mechanical restoration and the story of the original owner.
The house built in 1912 needed maintenance and remodeling, even in 1990, when it was first sold after Roberta passed.
This was not done. And the city of Muskogee was decaying, not letting even middle class people to buy houses there.
As an outcome, the house was purchased by those, who was not carrying about the structure, etc.
The porch with columns was removed ~10 years ago not for the sake of a beauty, but because it was completely rot.
I think the only reason why the house is still in place is that it's not a frame construction, but a pure brick walls.
May be this explanation helps.
Thank you for the engagement and comments.
Brakes, Brake Plates, and Rear Axle Seals
Brakes certainly been serviced before I got the car—maybe 30 years ago—because the hoses don't appear to be from 1953. But the shoes, wheel cylinders, hold-down pins, and springs definitely date back to '53.
I started with the left rear wheel. After flushing out and drying the wheel cylinder, it was clear it belonged straight in the scrap pile.
(https://a.d-cd.net/UFt9ykZN-vcPLmiXgMT1TVLm804-1920.jpg)
Wheel cylinder with corrosion
(https://a.d-cd.net/nCtmJ1VZVqoGbigXb62Z7_k-RbM-1920.jpg)
Further inspection revealed that the axle seals also need replacing. So I'm tearing it all down to the housing.
(https://a.d-cd.net/W6f9oJkM3vaTZ0LHO2hsAjFk-U0-1920.jpg)
Delco Moraine stamped on the shoe
(https://a.d-cd.net/NkzLxlc7s8zn9KQXUS5qmq-TGno-1920.jpg)
Front brake components removed and cleaned
(https://a.d-cd.net/TlJ1d5fINnRcT7Eu4vceii7p20g-1920.jpg)
Used a slide hammer to pull the axle shaft out
(https://a.d-cd.net/xkjC97ljDlT4QsONeFzMF3ijZdc-1920.jpg)
Removing the old seal using the same method as above
(https://a.d-cd.net/Zvo7qnNLjwj5HABKzf9uLV_1dg8-1920.jpg)
A handy puller with a tapered expander
(https://a.d-cd.net/54tgawMHqviccnruoeMZgOVN1kU-1920.jpg)
Picked up a special tool to adjust the shoes more easily than using a regular pry bar or a screw driver
(https://a.d-cd.net/QlJ4tV2r7UiQB3UPOjPP96PdbrE-1920.jpg)
And this multi-tool for disassembling and reassembling the brake hardware
(https://a.d-cd.net/wHodTmxKpBKlbfoMg_V6vUV5kIQ-1920.jpg)
Hook for the smaller spring
(https://a.d-cd.net/27eKZmutZYChrq2gFlov_23Y8pM-1920.jpg)
It works a bit like pliers, but you all know about it without my explanation :-)
(https://a.d-cd.net/gcDUbP6ByuPJJiueGlAOwl68qh8-1920.jpg)
"Spring installer" for the bigger springs
(https://a.d-cd.net/J3G6HFuDZ7n71tkmNLsJ6qhC8G8-1920.jpg)
It works like this—very convenient and safe, considering how strong these springs are
(https://a.d-cd.net/M6a20OeM0jBLUXrYUXnTNhaqsqg-1920.jpg)
And finally, a remover for the larger springs
(https://a.d-cd.net/ZMhzW81Xqdv0cuHzI6tteCPu7D4-1920.jpg)
You rotate it to release. I never realized drum brake service could be made this straightforward.
(https://a.d-cd.net/GWum2-PW9dFLbhflZoj0jI7CaI8-1920.jpg)
The backing plates go to the sandblasting and a matte black powder coating.
(https://a.d-cd.net/mUKJpoxaw_KrCcHIco4G94sjP7M-1920.jpg)
The same - sandblasting + powder coating
(https://a.d-cd.net/XVmK6kOiqXlxrYWKil7zwo2fOY0-1920.jpg)
Meanwhile, I will make new brake lines
(https://a.d-cd.net/9i38--4pPQhEFYbOcGIlVcuPzsg-1920.jpg)
Professional flaring tool
(https://a.d-cd.net/G56Veg2yAKuZK43m3js5OBSq2yM-1920.jpg)
Steel lines, copper-coated inside and zinc-plated outside. I use a Ridgid tube bender for shaping.
(https://a.d-cd.net/yld3pUcACb96QCkS28IWziIVrjU-1920.jpg)
Ready for installation
(https://a.d-cd.net/QCfFlA-G7PleBq5rj7OxHbqmqpY-1920.jpg)
Brand-new wheel cylinders
(https://a.d-cd.net/I0DXB9neqQXgLox_wQ4vjk1q1UQ-1920.jpg)
New brake hardware
(https://a.d-cd.net/k1nhS5F2flx2zTxyuubSll4jg2I-1920.jpg)
And here are the freshly coated parts
(https://a.d-cd.net/cALR-T7cTvtQ7363tQa69y1ERmg-1920.jpg)
I didn't released those pins in order not to screw-up the brake shoes alignment within the drums
(https://a.d-cd.net/bZW0KlaO1LWHDUXjsHph--UfGhg-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/oxdfihJmFveCNZS_DWa074a0ek8-1920.jpg)
More metal goodies—coming up in future updates
(https://a.d-cd.net/BAefBpqCkzKPaPzElwhdKE1lOGQ-1920.jpg)
Getting ready for reassembly. New gasket between the backing plate and the axle housing
(https://a.d-cd.net/DHgDQXy3udbOFa_YJvPKQm84JFg-1920.jpg)
New axle seal
(https://a.d-cd.net/M9uDLqvdIdeYC-mkZKRPkesRLm0-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/SvGXHQqYYx7tYP3aH5ErvTp0QrY-1920.jpg)
Putting the hardware back together
(https://a.d-cd.net/vMfoH1KUT17R70XvhDYlAmL6nrw-1920.jpg)
Adjusting the shoe-to-drum clearance. The spec is about 0.4 mm. I'll explain the method in another post.
(https://a.d-cd.net/FlAjpUrUWdhVloZZFHi_z-8aUeQ-1920.jpg)
This is a "floating shoe" setup, so both shoes have a self-tightening effect whether moving forward or backward. That's the main difference compared to the Ford design with a fixed lower pivot. Overall, floating shoes contact the drum more evenly, resulting in more effective braking and more uniform wear.
(https://a.d-cd.net/y4OFcW4QZZrwW1wNiIgmPIe4I2U-1920.jpg)
New lines
(https://a.d-cd.net/mVaX1eP5naK3m9ZeUuuH5waMnqw-1920.jpg)
Front wheel cylinders and new hoses
(https://a.d-cd.net/Akj6joOZRPOa7Vefdl29Oa8df_E-1920.jpg)
Assembled front mechanism, which follows the rear design except it has a bigger cylinder bore and no parking brake linkage
(https://a.d-cd.net/02dIzHNK2fJHxkXdj-vxvNAoDwI-1920.jpg)
Another view
(https://a.d-cd.net/mwDWbSRAdCGdVvQ8Db0hfNDSpuU-1920.jpg)
Final look
(https://a.d-cd.net/ataKIgcQRMldsp8JYgv7aSD1cPk-1920.jpg)
Wrapping up with an overhaul of the master cylinder. Its bore is flawless, so a rebuild kit sufficed. Why not buy new? They're no longer manufactured. You could find NOS for around $150, but you'd still want to rebuild it (old rubber is suspect), and depending on how it was stored, you might find pitting or cratering in the bore.
(https://a.d-cd.net/QG5li9vf7JJP2ZbJVK_YoBDxToo-1920.jpg)
Reassembled, ready to go back in.
Front Suspension
Let's continue our "dirty games"—so called because the suspension has plenty of grime on it, even after a dry ice cleaning. And "games," because, well, this Cadillac is essentially a toy.
From a technical standpoint, the suspension is in perfect shape. There's no play whatsoever in the threaded joints or kingpins, and all the steering linkage pivots are in good working order. The only items needing replacement are the sway-bar bushings, shock bushings, and bump stops.
Equipped with a lot of patience and a set of steel brushes (plus 2 gallons of the acetone and xylene to keep spirits high), I set about cleaning the suspension down to bare metal.
(https://a.d-cd.net/2gl-vbCthbXbnmDTTDFC7knZ8Zc-1920.jpg)
Oil-soaked grime—and that's even after dry ice cleaning.
(https://a.d-cd.net/gIpMBkKkaC_DXEZVKMg1Lih-8RA-1920.jpg)
Methodically, inch by inch, the suspension starts to look respectable.
(https://a.d-cd.net/cDBk1TF3t9npTRBYMhrzXWSih18-1920.jpg)
Another couple of shots
(https://a.d-cd.net/SZuLSUA8gckGoTUrdzYDLGqnYdo-1920.jpg)
You can imagine how much dirt and oil was packed inside the crossmember and on all those horizontal surfaces...
(https://a.d-cd.net/GWvWbW3z9mVqKrk90A-YkHFQ8TE-1920.jpg)
But we got it done.
(https://a.d-cd.net/wMVGadfuLObmd5DUnbeNFJw8n-s-1920.jpg)
More progress
(https://a.d-cd.net/V_0w4t1V5s0u3xrPncyCvG8Pkjg-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/4U0jFV4Hq1TaYuFNEO6s0GhhI6k-1920.jpg)
All ready for paint.
I painted it in two coats, letting it dry for a full day between coats. I used matte black Rust-Oleum "paint-over-rust" enamel, applied with a narrow (about 2-inch) long-nap roller. For hard-to-reach spots, I used a brush, then smoothed out the brush marks with the roller. I removed all the grease fittings first. The springs were painted with a special roller designed for fences, rods, and pipes—like the one shown here:
(https://a.d-cd.net/g2S4B3O-oAin93F9lOt-86it3D0-1920.jpg)
I brought a few of these rollers back from Russia to US. :-)
After giving the paint a couple of days to cure, I began reassembly.
(https://a.d-cd.net/OACH8HXF0jHzE64o_wXwftsTfBI-1920.jpg)
Parts for the job: #19460337
It turns out the sway-bar end link kit from a 2002–2006 Escalade is a direct fit.
(https://a.d-cd.net/0f31BrgzVCEQBUIKkokhdJn0gMg-1920.jpg)
You can get brand-new sway-bar bushings specifically for this Cadillac. Naturally, the bolts are new and in inch sizes, with the correct head markings for strength class.
(https://a.d-cd.net/25C9DAufbdJs0bp3Kks4tzqBpnQ-1920.jpg)
A few more progress photos
(https://a.d-cd.net/dCyD8GVq6KuWYiXSInuwA2guShQ-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/Mht9gPFWJZrieKb1ia400Um97XY-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/AEAndwfOVgYYtm5phsy97ghcWis-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/lWYxlMAH-F4-nt_hvOdZMV2f6n8-1920.jpg)
I made three blue paint marks on the springs, just like the original markings for Fleetwood as per Manual.
(https://a.d-cd.net/3LpGufbOBNk_tfnQcEZOZv1-Q24-1920.jpg)
A small but important upgrade: I added some grease fitting extensions.
(https://a.d-cd.net/HLiMUVm-GK_kWTjea16JUOr0p5o-1920.jpg)
You can't reach the zerk on one of the threaded bushings (rear upper right) from above because the generator is in the way. And you can't see it from below, either. But now, with a 4-inch extension, greasing it is a breeze.
(https://a.d-cd.net/LqGQCL-UbZXbJcyEiC_Aq5kMbLY-1920.jpg)
Tried to squeeze my phone under the generator for a photo.
(https://a.d-cd.net/QBftMjiW1jmNus2l_qocgHiJGyU-1920.jpg)
Once assembled and on its wheels, the suspension looks great—and, more importantly, it'll be easier and more pleasant to service and clean.
It wouldn't be a complete story without showing some before-and-after photos. I found a few from last year, when I first attempted to clean the suspension. Unfortunately, I don't have any from the day I bought the car.
(https://a.d-cd.net/VMxZDDa1FjmJf-fMhyro4iq0kY0-1920.jpg)
First wash at home
(https://a.d-cd.net/d3A3YIdDNEhZypNO5fJGgvd39kI-1920.jpg)
Second wash, but still huge amount of dirt
(https://a.d-cd.net/L-8HvF4X569Y_pqzNU-sAj73pAs-1920.jpg)
A few more shots
(https://a.d-cd.net/izgWisVsa26s7DCd_dc9gwCO_TM-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/ytxiG2y3ievJgfB6nuXG8NuETw8-1920.jpg)
That's it for now!
Where did you find those grease fitting extensions? I like the idea of getting it out where you can get to it easier. Great idea.
The suspension looks like new, great job on it.
Rick
New fuel lines, Fuel return line, Aux OEM Electric Fuel Pump
The plan involves bending a new supply line and creating a break in it near the auxiliary electric fuel pump, plus adding a return line that wasn't originally provided at the factory. Cadillac started installing a return line—especially on A/C-equipped cars—around the very next model year. The goal is to do all of this as neatly and professionally as possible, so it's virtually invisible.
(https://a.d-cd.net/clluqHzuF0GwPFjcUJ_MDMvXAL4-1920.jpg)
5/16-inch line (~8 mm). I'm using a hand-operated roller straightener.
(https://a.d-cd.net/fpjXVAzgq3ga_BLGLxQWRVLAjfg-1920.jpg)
Next, I bend the first short section—running from the fuel tank to the electric pump—using the old piece as a template.
(https://a.d-cd.net/bmA60ghTWvuASX6QDswr1i6ne64-1920.jpg)
Test-fitting in place.
(https://a.d-cd.net/72M1fyKFh0AmSJtr8tFkda7Kp7k-1920.jpg)
Temporarily fastening it to the frame.
Since I decided to paint the frame and underbody, I figured I might as well do it all at once. I loosened the body mounts on the left side and cleaned everything thoroughly. The zinc-plated washers and bolts are in great shape, so I'm leaving them as they are. I'll send the parking-brake cable bracket out for powder coating along with a larger batch of parts later.
(https://a.d-cd.net/hFXhqVl8DE164fwlmHarLT3D1fM-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/9nwPIMPqy7DlhiWiuT8Zu1E9ayo-1920.jpg)
I shape the supply line according to the old one, using new fittings and a fabric sleeve like the factory setup. The coil spring is for crush protection.
(https://a.d-cd.net/E5Wz1Pw12q6xdMFL4s3YXHfOEfE-1920.jpg)
It's a fairly complex shape, but I pulled it off—and even optimized it a bit, so it fits better than the original line did.
(https://a.d-cd.net/2hMNSZk0ZhJeucnY1RJOuX3QGuI-1920.jpg)
Double flare. I'm not entirely sure of the exact term, but "double flare" is what we usually call it.
(https://a.d-cd.net/IvcHrB_4HLrkbpwp_suGrIvm7wU-1920.jpg)
Securing the new line, after slipping on a new stainless protective spring.
(https://a.d-cd.net/uJsyP6zdwV0IFr3K5qrSdn4LvNs-1920.jpg)
Here's how it looks on the front of the engine.
Return Line
Why add a return line at all? First, continuous circulation helps cool the fuel pump, reducing the chance of vapor lock. Second, if vapor lock does form after a hot engine shutdown, the return line helps purge it quickly. Third, if everything is done correctly, the return line will provide a small degree of cooling to the carburetor.
(https://a.d-cd.net/uEPWnLfdmtN13yM2nJt9jHeh6bc-1920.jpg)
The return line will be made in two sections, because running it as a single piece is basically impossible. This zigzag section goes on the firewall. I used a wire mock-up to get the right shape.
(https://a.d-cd.net/KurNB9yIZFmOARtzXXXcENEecxw-1920.jpg)
I had to remove the heater assembly. The return line will run along the firewall, duck under the heater (clamped to one of the mounting points for the heater box), then drop down to the frame.
(https://a.d-cd.net/PqwHhNH3-eB6eIWRYguDIbOMbso-1920.jpg)
This is all you'll see, and even that piece will be nearly hidden. You'll see why.
(https://a.d-cd.net/GCy_c05VYcJ7uV318agWZtBXBgk-1920.jpg)
It's barely noticeable because I tucked it into a black cloth sleeve. You can also see a new line from the fuel pump to the carb with a T-fitting now in place.
(https://a.d-cd.net/Vqgi0k_EMproJ-BRu8lEMnrsizo-1920.jpghttps://a.d-cd.net/Vqgi0k_EMproJ-BRu8lEMnrsizo-1920.jpg)
It's crucial to tin the tube (with solder) and then drill a tiny 1 mm hole in the solder. First, that ensures the fuel goes to the carb instead of just heading straight down the return line. Second, as the heated fuel flows through that narrow hole into a larger opening, it vaporizes, cooling the tube (and thus slightly cooling the carb itself).
(https://a.d-cd.net/gKAQw_xvwnP79mNfUsyK9lgCJ3s-1920.jpg)
For soldering, I used flux and American-made solder—an absolute dream.
(https://a.d-cd.net/ofc8VmmyqmaW_ZAyKpaBo0GIwgA-1920.jpg)
In the engine bay, it all looks rather "sexy," if I do say so.
(https://a.d-cd.net/9hc1Y30LlWdRs90ZbARxn274vyg-1920.jpg)
Wouldn't you agree?
(https://a.d-cd.net/5qecTcF6xJIjqaVa6gEDqp-Yd_I-1920.jpg)
Connected with a Continental hose and heavy-duty stainless clamps.
(https://a.d-cd.net/jW7Bsq8p5Vqh80-3AI8XY7Vp3TI-1920.jpg)
Now it's time to bend the return line going back to the tank. I'm using new OEM-style zinc-plated clamps and a stainless protective spring.
(https://a.d-cd.net/zy95iSN9_oVIQajrwv_ztJ1NZ9k-1920.jpg)
Bend and keep bending.
(https://a.d-cd.net/il8NcVm5sveXRwX21VNEtyvxkCM-1920.jpg)
This will run along the frame to the tank.
(https://a.d-cd.net/rpQxOFaLJImj87U1eq5lxsmEHX8-1920.jpg)
Joining the engine-bay section of the return line with the section that runs along the frame. I hope all you detail-oriented folks appreciate these lines!
(https://a.d-cd.net/Amn-D4pUhVq1LSp0AVJ6Bijxekw-1920.jpg)
The return line goes above the supply line, fastened with those original-style clamps and new inch-size bolts with mushroom heads—exactly like the originals. The frame is coated with black hammered enamel.
(https://a.d-cd.net/pIf9eAo6xGb_38bjuZO_8TBHscw-1920.jpg)
The return line loops around the body mounts; that's why I created this U-shaped pass-through.
(https://a.d-cd.net/ibyFI2RO22HEQY9cvtTeeeOOy1Q-1920.jpg)
Another couple of views.
After the pump (more on that in a moment), the lines cross slightly on the frame. The return keeps running along the frame, while the supply dives inward toward the tank.
(https://a.d-cd.net/bkEEbvAKoKYVVzlpqsl7tmihbpM-1920.jpg)
Return line in the foreground, supply in the background near the tank.
(https://a.d-cd.net/Vz6WlK8yXQFXMdBme2xMFrL4Wrk-1920.jpg)
To connect the return line to the tank, I needed a 1/2-inch hose, so I bought a whole roll of it.
(https://a.d-cd.net/joZ0mvqW5b25rlUzAgqsx4-YXWA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/x0AgXzG7-2nvHNF8dQ81gjkuygo-1920.jpg)
ACDelco hose
(https://a.d-cd.net/udkLCzdt8jmwo9kDPBT9BP5YjM0-1920.jpg)
We'll tap into the tank vent tube. I cut off the old hose, trimmed the tube, and added a 1/2"–5/16"–1/2" tee.
(https://a.d-cd.net/PjN9zD8bp2cl3r2_AQc6l06Xt-c-1920.jpg)
Then I hooked the return line to it.
And Now, the Pump
I found a NOS GM unit on eBay for the fair price.
(https://a.d-cd.net/VVxt0upQdwTBTDVk6DzNUbzFRSw-1920.jpg)
I guess that it comes from 1980-s
(https://a.d-cd.net/ms-rp2VJuTuld9_gCdrn4Ett6zM-1920.jpg)
Unfortunately, the pump had 3/8-inch hose fittings. So I cut the fittings off the nuts, bored out the brass so a 5/16-inch line would fit, and then...
(https://a.d-cd.net/5FKWV9WR4YD3yKhHSZZ85WlGN_o-1920.jpg)
I cut the tubes, bent them to the shape I wanted, and soldered all the connections. From the back side, I flared the tube slightly so it wouldn't slip out, and soldered that too. Basically, it's permanent now.
(https://a.d-cd.net/N9WBZoldWFGTg39PHfB730NxBCI-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/1-VfgVbkn5F_XSvIsMAjic4uWfo-1920.jpg)
I think it turned out even better than before, because I was able to customize the tube angles.
(https://a.d-cd.net/zcLk9LSPJkMuAaeR8b2GcwYca1M-1920.jpg)
A couple of final shots
Installed it, hooked everything up, and it works like a charm.
Electrical Pump Wiring
(https://a.d-cd.net/FwFZ5Shfq4tiEizO7UXBeeiwBuY-1920.jpg)
Hoses used for connections. Ethanol compatible
(https://a.d-cd.net/djDryA-V3eRlzz59EonOfUEtUG4-1920.jpg)
Wiring along the frame. "Feasibility study" photo, before cleaning
(https://a.d-cd.net/iC9CoGYGKe-ppdpmzG3bnRTLuBc-1920.jpg)
Wiring diagram. All connected using relays and fuses
(https://a.d-cd.net/AqELHo13XKC6iq8zMfxOyrBP8cY-1920.jpg)
Manual switch, fuse, relay
(https://a.d-cd.net/ciCluPtcW5YGpE4oLmfLKf0ivUM-1920.jpg)
Hidden under the dash
(https://a.d-cd.net/_60nAHti05DzM4Z0VV5pr0piu8A-1920.jpg)
All wires are behind the dash
(https://a.d-cd.net/rUMLq_AQUwPpjiGMAzcGkcO8aPo-1920.jpg)
Like this
Final notes:
All of these modifications have effectively resolved any vapor lock issues—even in the intense Texas heat—while maintaining an OEM-quality appearance that looks as if it came straight from the factory. Under normal driving conditions, I usually keep the electric pump switched off because the NOS mechanical pump and the return line cover 99% of situations. However, if the engine has been shut off while hot (and sits for 20–30 minutes until all the fuel in the carburetor evaporates, leaving vapor in the lines) or if I'm caught in heavy traffic, I simply turn on the electric pump, and the car starts as smoothly as any modern, fuel-injected vehicle.
The same goes for when the car has been sitting in the garage for days or even weeks: flip on the electric pump to prime the system, and the engine fires up on the very first crank. Not only does this setup completely eliminate vapor lock, but it's also implemented so seamlessly that it appears to have been done on the production line.
Quote from: kudims on January 04, 2025, 03:25:17 PM(https://a.d-cd.net/2hMNSZk0ZhJeucnY1RJOuX3QGuI-1920.jpg)
Double flare. I'm not entirely sure of the exact term, but "double flare" is what we usually call it.
You are correct, it is called a Double Flare.
And all beautifully done.
Bruce. >:D
Very nice.
On all of the electric pump installations I have been involved with, our seen, it is always strongly recommended that an inline fuel filter be placed BEFORE the electric pump. Keeps any bits of trash out of the pump which could/would be detrimental to the pump.
Quote from: 35-709 on January 04, 2025, 08:04:42 PMVery nice.
On all of the electric pump installations I have been involved with, our seen, it is always strongly recommended that an inline fuel filter be placed BEFORE the electric pump. Keeps any bits of trash out of the pump which could/would be detrimental to the pump.
Yes, you are correct. I was also making a bit of research here, and my conclusion was that these membrane type electric pumps may suffer only from big particles, which can block any valve inside the pump opened. Other than that, there are no issues.
But: when I was working on carb, fuel pump and fuel filter, all inside was clean! This is why I took a decision to omit included in pack fuel filter. Only mesh filter at the pump entry
One suggestion here, if it ever becomes necessary to use the electric pump for an extended period, you want to make sure your wiring is heavy enough to handle the load.
I made this mistake on my El Camino. (I used the same pump you did, I called it my electric fuel filter as that's what it looks like). I matched the wire size that was on the pump and ran it back to the tank. Worked like a charm, until it had been running for about an hour, then the pump slowed down and couldn't supply enough fuel to keep the engine running, it acted like vapor lock. The wire begins to get warm and the resistance goes up, and the pump slows down.
Once the wire size was upgraded it worked fine.
I like that tube straightener, very cool idea. Where did you find it?
Very nice job.
Rick
Super job on the various lines you did; as Bruce noted, the double flares are fantastic! I bought some time ago brake lines from a known supplier. The flares were awful compared to yours...
Personnaly, I would use the protector springs just at critical places, because dirt can be trapped into the coils and start attaking the coating when humidity is present. However, I doubt that this condition will happen as long as the car is in your hands...
Quote from: Roger Zimmermann on January 05, 2025, 03:31:11 AMI would use the protector springs just at critical places, because dirt can be trapped into the coils and start attaking the coating when humidity is present. However, I doubt that this condition will happen as long as the car is in your hands...
Absolutely true: springs were used only in few places, where lines can potentially suffer from stones, or any types of bending... and, of course, this car will never see dirty roads again.
Quote from: Cadman-iac on January 05, 2025, 12:03:22 AMOne suggestion here, if it ever becomes necessary to use the electric pump for an extended period, you want to make sure your wiring is heavy enough to handle the load.
Gauge 14 was used, so I'm confident that it's enough
(https://a.d-cd.net/jsq7WP-UhD3t69Zy6ihbYwmgSJU-1920.jpg)
New Hood Emblem
Very short post )))
(https://a.d-cd.net/21Ljs6fHX_HuFSR89e3cQvbITk4-1920.jpg)
Ordered
(https://a.d-cd.net/lJ3NGPO7ZN62Yjz0L41lURzXMIs-1920.jpg)
Installed
(https://a.d-cd.net/0qE8jcAymBbkblBXNRUVOZHaBAE-1920.jpg)
Heater
As I had to remove the heater assembly in order to run the return line, then, once I had it out, there was no way I could just slap it back in as-is. That's how it goes with old cars—start out replacing a headlight bulb, and somehow end up taking off the entire fender.
(https://a.d-cd.net/x6uXUH6HpygDvPZi-O3-p75QbPg-1920.jpg)
The heater comes out together with its air duct.
(https://a.d-cd.net/Bd0yFjQsVXWc74L8JEtfxa6QdD4-1920.jpg)
Inside, it's suspiciously clean, considering nobody before me ever cleared out any dust or leaves.
(https://a.d-cd.net/I-NwOXgGDIwhqR4efs_dKUGmom0-1920.jpg)
A little on how it's set up: the heater core sits in the center. Fresh outside air can enter below and flow to the footwell without heating or cooling. Air can also flow upward for defrosting the windshield, either at ambient temperature (ventilation) or heated (defog) to clear condensation.
(https://a.d-cd.net/WGc6GXDhuqC0PVRhB-7wT25BHQA-1920.jpg)
The damper seals had dried out and needed replacing.
(https://a.d-cd.net/QEFKE4Z-LaFqbuu4knd2NAggg5Y-1920.jpg)
I replaced the seals and lined the interior of the heater housing to reduce sound and heat transfer from the engine.
(https://a.d-cd.net/HHut7jjmTetJjs3R_EHAOPYza1E-1920.jpg)
Painted the inside of the heater box with black hammered-finish enamel.
(https://a.d-cd.net/8i7K7vs_V9BfKtijyVEyU6oB9mg-1920.jpg)
And used matte black on the outside.
(https://a.d-cd.net/WxpCysV_ML9niayjiKCJq8DEEhk-1920.jpg)
"Harrison"—the company that built heaters for GM.
(https://a.d-cd.net/ez27OO_uZ15VnrQeLdTWuJBQIbA-1920.jpg)
Reassembling the squirrel cage after powder-coating it matte black.
(https://a.d-cd.net/JQQt3uT4vF6QUnFXzjVejwL2szU-1920.jpg)
Balancing weights are in place.
(https://a.d-cd.net/dorHgNl3KmBzJwNxEUjh54KIGiI-1920.jpg)
Heater box components after sandblasting and powder coating.
(https://a.d-cd.net/HTcXxExEFiEX5Gv38NKldAfPJT0-1920.jpg)
The blower motor was disassembled, lubricated, and rewired with the correct cloth-covered wiring (the originals were in bad shape). I'll explain where I source these cloth wires in a moment.
(https://a.d-cd.net/tX19gpbFpce2-BSqxFOdEMxQhm8-1920.jpg)
I applied a layer of sound insulation inside the ducts. It'll also help shield them from engine heat.
(https://a.d-cd.net/Dcq5UilJIKuee5z1bvSK4s-mjKo-1920.jpg)
Outside air enters here (through the box in the fender) and is picked up by the blower.
(https://a.d-cd.net/FOPynnNiWe9cIMaPxd206wumCo8-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/mfDd248abSyppRoD99n0Px5h50o-1920.jpg)
I also lined the diffuser with sound insulation.
Before putting it back on the firewall, I wrapped the diffuser in masking tape on the outside so it wouldn't get scratched during installation.
(https://a.d-cd.net/9N79DhCvHLqpqaLGhl4bR1p5tbA-1920.jpg)
From the factory, gaps at the joints were sealed with cloth tape. I replicated that. It's mostly cosmetic now because I've already insulated everything internally, but I wanted to keep it authentic.
(https://a.d-cd.net/LfMtfYOPZwgnZj0lpASZ1e0weQ4-1920.jpg)
Heater assembly installed—just need to connect the blower and diffuser with a flex hose.
(https://a.d-cd.net/uJ7kU-wJGehwUnQRqWkpomEmlAQ-1920.jpg)
All set.
(https://a.d-cd.net/PXy9_2kOBaBhTEgrQydLuY_3vbI-1920.jpg)
Here's the place where I buy my wires. Conveniently close to my work, though they ship worldwide.
(https://a.d-cd.net/CU1RWmaYfjJqVz1-4e7eVNb60gI-1920.jpg)
Re-soldered the Autronic Eye harness in the correct colors. It was easy to do with the heater removed.
(https://a.d-cd.net/Y1HH1ZcZisRILDx29H2d8iNKkvg-1920.jpg)
Interesting detail: the Autronic Eye harness is wrapped in cloth tape (supplied by an external vendor for GM), whereas the car's main wiring harness—made by GM in-house—was wrapped in vinyl. I reproduced that difference.
(https://a.d-cd.net/v5gPLQj-Kj2TGUj3XpupSskveT4-1920.jpg)
Finally, I changed the gear oil in the rear end. This is a mineral-based oil recommended by other vintage Cadillac owners, as it closely matches what was originally used. It took three quarts (just under three liters).
(https://a.d-cd.net/IeyYRm9F3WeD-GXD73bCGN2snqI-1920.jpg)
Now there is a time to test the car on the road, see how brakes work, fuel supply, heater, etc...
And I will be ready to disassemble the engine bay for maintenance, painting, seal removal, and engine cleaning from inside.
Engine Bay, Engine, Transmission, Pt1
I think that pictures are more informative that thousands of words...
(https://a.d-cd.net/zABEO1ZFLR98V6sBKI8MxfDhfYE-1920.jpg)
Start removing things...
(https://a.d-cd.net/Fgeiw5DEnM9NSZvQD2td76Cz2BA-1920.jpg)
This will need to be replaced by new cloth wires
(https://a.d-cd.net/FFEUuIoov4R49LwwqU217IknrFc-1920.jpg)
and these too..
(https://a.d-cd.net/RG9zK5KbJfwR8407w92SjPievvA-1920.jpg)
New
(https://a.d-cd.net/KWz0J25zKU0LX8r8t8oYv79uw2A-1920.jpg)
Right air inlet
(https://a.d-cd.net/VQC7uvdM4ZlhKQZ69QitT0p31lE-1920.jpg)
Battery hold-down frame. Has to be replaced with a new one.
(https://a.d-cd.net/ox2P2DwtIIih_vNG6kEfN8_olDA-1920.jpg)
Battery was boiling at some time, no doubt. I guess the reason was in the voltage regulator
(https://a.d-cd.net/inszV8fYKG0BlHgNXk9z0xprD-s-1920.jpg)
Some sludge, of course
(https://a.d-cd.net/DpLh8wPV2lwx8zMAWj4Pfcwx7Ak-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/HQtBvNYso_pkW4sLHIALw4yskQQ-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/RhJ_oK--aSV3DptNwlE5l5znmRQ-1920.jpg)
Lower housing of the bell
(https://a.d-cd.net/LPmgE5HdnXYHmJ195gelILxeyyo-1920.jpg)
Original generator
(https://a.d-cd.net/YwT887lNnYlzjNAC_ryFR8EIxq0-1920.jpg)
This will be all cleaned
(https://a.d-cd.net/btOfpQ0e0aciIx__WKaJ31xfPYU-1920.jpg)
Looking bad?
(https://a.d-cd.net/SVL8s-ZZPSKNpVMV3OOqOs0PKpQ-1920.jpg)
A/C compressor was not removed and system was not disconnected. I will manage to do everything with A/C on the car.
(https://a.d-cd.net/4B4Wfg7TiKhIwKBCOaxHiU7-2qo-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/9w8XMHUB9CcImXgQD4H84IOGrzw-1920.jpg)
Dirty vs. clean
(https://a.d-cd.net/E7VgUTxqwLuREljcylV12oHv0es-1920.jpg)
~ 1" of sludge over 71 years
(https://a.d-cd.net/UicI9CSLDm30_QyZv8jKJ-JUyn0-1920.jpg)
I guess that oil change was not as frequent, as it was required by the manual
(https://a.d-cd.net/KI_tnT2pj_yPGstt2PqdVIg-lpA-1920.jpg)
Lifter cover and oil filler neck
(https://a.d-cd.net/OVf1d65HSKEC4AgoSnhKMEYj4c8-1920.jpg)
Exhaust manifolds
(https://a.d-cd.net/sgDgrWUIEBE8Mt4dovFAnkrGSBQ-1920.jpg)
Right has a crack. Will be replaced
(https://a.d-cd.net/7aB-cSCnxzi61j1sGNZhk30hLOM-1920.jpg)
Clean exhaust!
(https://a.d-cd.net/PRzRNlGXLYfhT5vPprL4NXCvirw-1920.jpg)
Oil pump and Hydramatic pan
(https://a.d-cd.net/zy8tffVoa9eqD4uBVDI3jT_9nxs-1920.jpg)
Radiator needs overfill tube replacement
(https://a.d-cd.net/zq9DSd_V3X7_1pL8pJpP_lVJfJc-1920.jpg)
Removal of rear main seal
(https://a.d-cd.net/JF_kqgFAp45ohDeJGqMUX4dwgyc-1920.jpg)
High strength screw + pry bar
(https://a.d-cd.net/faEk9Jb4jCNsG6HdpafPwHDFPOk-1920.jpg)
The condition of the rear seal rope does not look like it was leaking... But what was leaking? I will tell you in future posts. And this will be the great finding! I think that this is the reason for 99% of rear engine leaks
(https://a.d-cd.net/HV32UQkj1WGr01ovoq8ewsicuM4-1920.jpg)
Without seal
Cleaning of parts
(https://a.d-cd.net/7juN_Ryvkm8LtZcvFM8hZGUzBpI-1920.jpg)
Just after bath with xylene
(https://a.d-cd.net/KO_xqqRa53y7F78UOTtRX1lOHZI-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/e_befEdJ8n8aFuIuNmSMgoHk0JI-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/LV8zEHik4kfNaxdEKKVYytQsQAc-1920.jpg)
Oil pump mesh, which is the main oil filter in this car (and it was till 1960)
(https://a.d-cd.net/OgrePHCweNR_IYbapD6BsCv7BSY-1920.jpg)
Clean, ready for assembling
(https://a.d-cd.net/10xy6TTi3YxeoZlDywdpgnTtHO4-1920.jpg)
Gears need to be greased before assembling. Otherwise you will never get oil pressure
(https://a.d-cd.net/VsvWpcVyUgpLxLvfoRDSSHtGFEo-1920.jpg)
Overfill radiator tube
(https://a.d-cd.net/GcSv8HVtS1Uy_GAEdEELd5a9ItQ-1920.jpg)
Rot and damaged
(https://a.d-cd.net/z22OZ87uGNsFgrqTT90xxMoxFyo-1920.jpg)
Oops!
(https://a.d-cd.net/oCAwY75p_MZ7G3U-qyEorw7zUFM-1920.jpg)
Need to clean all these
(https://a.d-cd.net/rGZJ5jYnmp92HgTUPkN1hdTQsqM-1920.jpg)
New copper tube bended and soldered
(https://a.d-cd.net/Z-kT5i607sOyxmpQXfSLk9yKWw0-1920.jpg)
Filling the gaps)))
(https://a.d-cd.net/iY3F7HkthstRWaxgQU2h8BjLSm8-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/1Oe5OhIvR2f9WGiUe4ojhU7Whk0-1920.jpg)
Soldered connection for the drain valve
(https://a.d-cd.net/1mEWOrQqYRiWWtxfc-EgrQAoDIE-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/FqdNvnVaAIH8J-74BVvFVWhZjrM-1920.jpg)
+/- ready to be painted in black satin
(https://a.d-cd.net/1hZOkN3Vl3OzbcjUP09WulHoBlI-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/a5VntkaV0A8uxGHHsSttFWaOvAg-1920.jpg)
And this is the quality of the factory engine paint
(https://a.d-cd.net/crgzFgLvjvaUifY3GnxM5hLX60M-1920.jpg)
Parts are getting better and better
(https://a.d-cd.net/TcTT042K3ch_YdWc7uGrLljz9D4-1920.jpg)
Compare it with what it was...
(https://a.d-cd.net/yEvLoI4fh92VrLd7cT_4cmfFPJY-1920.jpg)
How about that?
(https://a.d-cd.net/K41NnrALzyc37rhw6BTlYcujErE-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/oS7V9JoqaVZSSw3z19Lmh829vVU-1920.jpg)
Modification of intake manifold
(https://a.d-cd.net/YZGbSg2GH6-QEUXwbJOv_p8_SU0-1920.jpg)
I decided to lock these ports for heating the carburettor
(https://a.d-cd.net/98msHCiNCcsbxLxc4pz_DU3Y0zM-1920.jpg)
Cleaned them and made threads
(https://a.d-cd.net/RZMeuBZgcxY-IJ0dlhLYx-6Y24A-1920.jpg)
This guy will be used to lock screws in place
(https://a.d-cd.net/-4kpMgPVFtHRNG__4vh-MY3e-JA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/WZsouUB8t2osYCpOVbn2bLL3ITc-1920.jpg)
This is how it looks from outside and inside.
And this is all for today.
Valvetrain + Paint job
Next on the engine service list was the valvetrain. It needed to be removed, taken apart down to the smallest piece, thoroughly cleaned, lubricated, and reassembled. Since the rocker shaft bolts also serve as head bolts, I tackled each head in turn, loosening only part of the bolts for as little time as possible.
(https://a.d-cd.net/Zj7raypr8e84-BddK2nU4iOzfAs-1920.jpg)
Freshly cleaned hydraulic lifter components. There's no wear; everything looks almost new aside from the "archaeological" layers of deposits built up over 70 years.
(https://a.d-cd.net/0-hG3iX63hUoAcDTQjdICqYOImA-1920.jpg)
The low-pressure chamber inside the plunger was completely clogged. Hard to believe it functioned at all, but evidently, oil still managed to seep through.
(https://a.d-cd.net/j4shUzKd0dFC19Ek-QtmcuvqCyk-1920.jpg)
Filling each lifter with fresh oil.
(https://a.d-cd.net/dA9MJKKgWP7VMzaQuLvt9QkZxDI-1920.jpg)
Installing the retainer and lock clip.
(https://a.d-cd.net/BaPDfB73HSow0auDeSy3t9Aqg_U-1920.jpg)
A quick push with a 1/2-inch tube seats the clip along its tapered guide. The lifter is now assembled. If there's any air trapped inside (and there definitely is), it'll eventually bleed out. That's just how hydraulic lifters work.
(https://a.d-cd.net/Kr70SI7Qw9RH8x2-KDIKJYF3P1o-1920.jpg)
The rocker shaft was packed with a tar-like sludge. First, I pushed out thick "sausages" of gunk with a 12mm (1/2") rod, then soaked everything in solvent. Before reassembly, I used compressed air to clear out every hidden passage and oil channel.
(https://a.d-cd.net/Z_eyjutcKUQm9QKW_JjraqN11zw-1920.jpg)
Getting ready for reassembly.
(https://a.d-cd.net/ydgjZjlyPL6z3FomXncbO_OouY0-1920.jpg)
These grooves feed oil to the rockers.
(https://a.d-cd.net/e6rlLX0ceZ0Qw_KSuXNtm1ihcFU-1920.jpg)
New end plugs.
(https://a.d-cd.net/0wJfTbPNI-wKmzznpmR1_Us4uWo-1920.jpg)
All set for installation. I cleaned all the pushrods as well.
(https://a.d-cd.net/PJw4Exp169jUZaOpG0M4ymp1TBo-1920.jpg)
While the rocker assembly was off, I cleaned out the pockets in the cylinder head and the lifter bores.
(https://a.d-cd.net/z0ebjIHZOfAZr0KkA_lsU2rhonA-1920.jpg)
You can see the left side (from the driver's perspective) cleaned versus the still-dirty right side.
(https://a.d-cd.net/5A2eAGUj8UHOBj0Fy_SetN8GmI4-1920.jpg)
It took me an entire day off just to do one side, and I had no energy left to tackle the other head. Along the way, I also prepped various parts for paint. The black paint is matte PPG; for the engine, I used KBS Motor Coating.
(https://a.d-cd.net/16_mbyqbExeX5Qyo-FfC0pLeguM-1920.jpg)
On paint day, I got up at 5a.m. The night before, I set up a makeshift spray booth in front of my garage—complete with a hook overhead for the spray gun. With no bugs or dust around that early, and before the heat set in, I wanted to finish by 9a.m.
(https://a.d-cd.net/8hiv95SRLy6bH5YREAo6Zu5_IK4-1920.jpg)
A simple spray gun, plus a tack cloth for dust removal.
(https://a.d-cd.net/aWc9lqZaCUWn1PyWpl-eRs2RY1M-1920.jpg)
Parts "before"
(https://a.d-cd.net/zW1Av-0E80XweiG_150wrvKGXm4-1920.jpg)
Another box
(https://a.d-cd.net/nzWBb3U039ujQjEoNS716fKnuyg-1920.jpg)
Parts "after." All cast iron parts were painted with a narrow roller, not a spray gun
(https://a.d-cd.net/w5h0yqs0JWhuHbf4ansiyBPZL5E-1920.jpg)
And a few more shots.
(https://a.d-cd.net/a-8UsSiG0hU5QviT-dGzkqz36cA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/dZsmPQAsPMRYEU4sCjMsOoYDWsg-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/BgIcklSJ4wpmeYZ6iV5fidm6f6Q-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/u8hGYn2BAWRRXdyIFtHAq1YKqBs-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/fLyfTO5iMzHgpaQdPIVnE5WP3Ck-1920.jpg)
The color is a vivid, richly saturated blue. It is the most accurate shade I've seen for Cadillac engines from 1949 to 1976. And it 100% fits the remaining paint color from 1953, left on the engine.
(https://a.d-cd.net/pKooHG41UBBGeQ_5GTBwcQsnyfQ-1920.jpg)
Painting the radiator.
(https://a.d-cd.net/vBtYnDZacyahW4x0uhgWd2VZUF8-1920.jpg)
Radiator construction details.
(https://a.d-cd.net/0ICTqV44l0ESe710r7nq4Zdpdc8-1920.jpg)
Another look.
Everything cured for a few days—mainly so the paint could harden.
(https://a.d-cd.net/5y2BLChUShkkoUM3T1eZTdfLwJY-1920.jpg)
Starter assembly. NOS starter solenoid installed
(https://a.d-cd.net/-nE-4o2AmJns_jqDUoKz4wtZRQQ-1920.jpg)
More shots of the starter.
(https://a.d-cd.net/mnru94XVwz5lIxsu8DlpU04ZgdQ-1920.jpg)
Generator assembly
(https://a.d-cd.net/tT76DfPaiEZH4T1qopoeDJn8kz0-1920.jpg)
Another view
(https://a.d-cd.net/CpbBsI_zRjae9nMOBTVviZc6WF0-1920.jpg)
All factory ID tags preserved.
(https://a.d-cd.net/m4UO8abpzkd022uIrNzAlCm2ODo-1920.jpg)
Reassembling the water pump.
(https://a.d-cd.net/8GHLGavSNMDgQHHZvZAoBe6EaHI-1920.jpg)
From 1949 to 1955, the front crankshaft seal (sealing the pulley and balancer) was felt, which tended to leak. It also wore some significant grooves in the sealing surface.
(https://a.d-cd.net/5rMxnEe-VW6Cb_ba06HZ_fJEkm8-1920.jpg)
Kit for repairing that worn surface.
(https://a.d-cd.net/E4PHOP9dHOsAPHOwkpwdWn9IwKQ-1920.jpg)
Using a red anaerobic sealant to fill any imperfections and lock everything in place. Even with a solid press-fit, oil sometimes seeps under a repair sleeve if you don't seal it thoroughly.
(https://a.d-cd.net/LtyUr_HetaPQ-DBp7pL2EXDfbw8-1920.jpg)
All done.
(https://a.d-cd.net/fvL5kPXnJBbLXQCDJ_rtT7hu7QQ-1920.jpg)
Instead of the original felt-seal timing cover (right), I picked up a '56–'62 cover designed for a more modern rubber seal (left). That's going to be on the engine
(https://a.d-cd.net/WBZjWRFXd92UZtxIRM8UNJV_eUg-1920.jpg)
Various parts sitting off to the side, waiting for their big day.
Firewall & Engine paint + Assembly start
The workflow was planned so that while the freshly painted Cadillac Dark Blue components cure, I'd have about a week to tidy up the right portion of the firewall and frame. During that same timeframe, I also set out to paint the entire engine and transmission in dark blue.
Cleaning the engine, transmission, frame, and the firewall of dirt and oil buildup was quite an undertaking. I went through 8 liters of xylene, 10 large rolls of paper towels, 5 or 6 cans of carb cleaner (for tight spots you can't reach otherwise), and one 40-pack of nitrile gloves. Inch by inch, I removed decades' worth of grime amid the swirling fumes of xylene. Every corner of the engine and transmission (including the top of the transmission), plus all the tight spaces of the frame from the front crossmember to the driveshaft, were painstakingly cleaned. It took two full weekends of effort, but it was worth it.
After cleaning, I prepped the right half of the firewall by brushing/sanding down to bare metal, applied a red-oxide anti-rust primer, let it dry, then sanded it with 400-grit. Finally, I applied matte black PPG paint so it would match the factory finish on the left side of the firewall.
(https://a.d-cd.net/8jB0r9Mqa0eLuD7ovKNOYATECbc-1920.jpg)
Only the right side of the firewall is being repainted; on the left, the factory finish remains in excellent shape.
(https://a.d-cd.net/EXfXDBhQ5luREVPHtE4F6SxflAg-1920.jpg)
Both the engine and firewall have received two coats.
(https://a.d-cd.net/KSohDBlgWQGWfCW0knMG-5JErIo-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/wLavtC3mShs_Y6mJx724CX5m4To-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/gOdtgXLzvtxYm_ZSsazEg4q3Y1U-1920.jpg)
Right-side frame rail and A/C lines.
(https://a.d-cd.net/vknkhlONUgGF00SsE-LOFLzRc04-1920.jpg)
Pushrod (valley) cover installed.
(https://a.d-cd.net/I_vdWaPtLa9xpR_qhRTAWLq1B-g-1920.jpg)
Front cover installation.
(https://a.d-cd.net/m3wRi9dyzKy0MsYh6V_TcDz-oOs-1920.jpg)
Another angle.
(https://a.d-cd.net/_fwlB2eJnXmMtpABPiRw0HatqAw-1920.jpg)
Sandblasted exhaust manifolds. With high humidity, cast iron begins to flash-rust almost immediately. Right manifold was found solid and uncracked
(https://a.d-cd.net/oCyWQ-WUoQxSsmdr4Xnun-9DWxs-1920.jpg)
The replacement right-side manifold has casting-sand pockmarks but is solid and crack-free.
(https://a.d-cd.net/pBaOcv9ACphM3XdPmVT7KAlcyMU-1920.jpg)
The "heat stove" (snorkel) for preheating intake air, which feeds the carb's cold-start system.
(https://a.d-cd.net/q5wDVYUlgxR_SW06heVjz6cNYpw-1920.jpg)
On the right manifold, the exhaust passage diameter increases downstream.
(https://a.d-cd.net/Zmipnt6rRZMl-DjgSRhXpyHJ5lQ-1920.jpg)
After applying a 2,000°F–rated high-temp enamel.
(https://a.d-cd.net/emv0upAHD-iSjxywUxPv2zejjzE-1920.jpg)
All fasteners are installed with copper-based anti-seize.
(https://a.d-cd.net/iUgO-isqMpD_ftnUTTv2n7d0UL8-1920.jpg)
New high strength studs and nuts.
(https://a.d-cd.net/IRhLBjN-jnyGU439da243xsFuG0-1920.jpg)
Installed on the engine. Also visible are the polished A/C lines and a section of the frame finished in black hammered enamel.
(https://a.d-cd.net/2TCp0AgkUWj5gDSJu06_wuPsI2w-1920.jpg)
Another view.
(https://a.d-cd.net/eEGC9B8-WUvZcyhaJs72LLSMStE-1920.jpg)
Both manifolds installed. The generator bracket is bolted to the right manifold.
(https://a.d-cd.net/SEr4I2qZtf4FkU-dHe6Pf9keOcU-1920.jpg)
Transmission pan with a new gasket.
(https://a.d-cd.net/ve1lo4nXN2kEIxBfY-TaKk5c4EQ-1920.jpg)
Another look.
(https://a.d-cd.net/zdLmvfO5lZQRNrpFBaLT1S7F3L8-1920.jpg)
All mounted up.
(https://a.d-cd.net/Z11ZLEmyqghE0_WzLEK9lpo9UW4-1920.jpg)
One more angle.
(https://a.d-cd.net/Vf3nmezZM0qpLtdmqxNpNsb5118-1920.jpg)
Preparing to install the engine oil pan. Judging by the dipstick, a full oil level sits right at the baffle plate, so not too high above the oil pump pickup.
(https://a.d-cd.net/di6PZfelnJoeIK6oSK7G05LLn_Y-1920.jpg)
Oil pan installed and torqued to specs.
(https://a.d-cd.net/jO1dENpdd0FMxenWpHLo5f-YE4o-1920.jpg)
Another view.
(https://a.d-cd.net/ltbzVui-_PPA18nCiqbqarhhGxY-1920.jpg)
Bellhousing cover in place.
(https://a.d-cd.net/Z0MeINNjkOSEl0HD8_FxVGVMTYI-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/HVhgu4uauwLOD0igH2HNpstimqs-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/tMMefXUBNtiaYH0NZcV_hfoGyEE-1920.jpg)
The left side is obscured by the steering gear—made painting in that area pretty challenging.
(https://a.d-cd.net/FwJwra3EY8VbnLxgfEr9FBd2pms-1920.jpg)
Crankcase vent tube.
(https://a.d-cd.net/ci_MH0y6BC81R6w3yq4PY7JLaaI-1920.jpg)
A few drops from the transmission dripped into the oil pan through the untightened drain plug
Further engine assembly, Pt2
According to the assembly sequence, the valve covers can't be postponed any longer, so we proceed—offering a quick prayer to the GM gods.
(https://a.d-cd.net/LxHm5Jn-MNQTCGRPnfS__5l60HI-1920.jpg)
A polyurethane-based engine sealant applied to one side of the gasket.
(https://a.d-cd.net/A0Fl35Z0m4fr7XuGSbJPNSuRxZY-1920.jpg)
Positioning the gasket on the cylinder head.
(https://a.d-cd.net/rBJuhGN0mlTQor_hqXZdX5e0y5A-1920.jpg)
Applying sealant to the valve cover itself.
(https://a.d-cd.net/9q2c-s7t8Xdg-_8g6pQmpFGnHGA-1920.jpg)
Setting the cover in place and starting the bolts, simultaneously guiding the gasket using its small "tabs." I used a ratchet strap to pull the A/C compressor slightly aside so the right-side valve cover could slip underneath.
(https://a.d-cd.net/vrWshMhrn-qYw9tDUK0S-3HJT_s-1920.jpg)
Torque is 3 N·m. Do not overtighten!
(https://a.d-cd.net/an-qYDAXowFW6YKnKUyJ2tYzvh4-1920.jpg)
A Phillips #3 bit ("Ph3").
(https://a.d-cd.net/dnB4BG_sjgUHpiYDXtYNojKoK6c-1920.jpg)
Covers installed. To protect them (and my nerves), I taped them up beforehand—same procedure I used on the oil pan.
(https://a.d-cd.net/tfhuVNNadv7ndDG2Us75tcAXDX8-1920.jpg)
I made small cuts in the "tabs" so the cover's edge could slide in. Without these tabs, there's a 99% chance the gasket would shift inward and fail to seal properly.
(https://a.d-cd.net/7APgXf0UW7P5hnjhgAabpx1g74E-1920.jpg)
With that done, we move on.
(https://a.d-cd.net/fcIqi2HmQZCverEJed1r7w8zw84-1920.jpg)
Horn relay housing—cleaned up and painted. I'm not detailing every little step (like soldering, painting, wrapping wires) to avoid driving readers away with minutiae.
(https://a.d-cd.net/m_QHqmFo9UsbZQCXWjzPJSLVAyk-1920.jpg)
Finally tackling the wiring, which started this whole chain reaction.
(https://a.d-cd.net/eZ8BsG2wSzbMpFZGcDJ1GvlyQsM-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/Imsr7fB7u9K1nGjlIa1ZEx52bY0-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/dhGS8HNXGKwCBwgckrClrQ81y4s-1920.jpg)
Upgraded all wiring on the firewall up to where it enters the cabin.
Working was only possible by climbing into the engine bay barefoot, naturally.
(https://a.d-cd.net/QIrptsYYNRc7CHoDs8o2-Pv5JR4-1920.jpg)
For extra sealing on the two manifold passages that route exhaust gas to warm the carburetor, I used high-temp sealant.
(https://a.d-cd.net/tDBICfS40wvKgrRBA5BBkLAKfsc-1920.jpg)
Manifold back in place.
(https://a.d-cd.net/9uU5e1ZpF-3urNpdon3PzTDNJwQ-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/nIRAvQMC67___4FNNJclHYmFfLM-1920.jpg)
Installing the oil filler neck, which also serves as a mounting bracket for the fuel pump.
(https://a.d-cd.net/KrDv2NtP1VTmCY_JJwelktXzGBI-1920.jpg)
I bent and flared a new vacuum line for the dual-action NOS fuel pump.
(https://a.d-cd.net/1NS1aSyUk3QCwnrrSFhtfNvKl1o-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/JAKKdJCA0d5Jgge16XH_fzNT2Ac-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/bpHQdx58KHCDpcNe5YnrXniKFaI-1920.jpg)
Continuing to load the engine with components: the fuel pump and ignition are now installed.
Oil filter is in place.
(https://a.d-cd.net/yK3z-eALRklJ4GmVs76degk-eDo-1920.jpg)
A new tube for the carburetor's cold-start system. It slides into that spiral heat pipe on the right manifold (shown in a previous post), letting the carb "sense" that the engine is warmed up and reduce RPM/un-choke.
(https://a.d-cd.net/1j1tbUlUSc_jcbfAm_3HB1TMie8-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/ecwLi5sQ32iZx-xJvaMQxhr3G3g-1920.jpg)
The generator is ready to go.
(https://a.d-cd.net/niUGcKh4aY3M6c3Fe6SZegpywzk-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/jFxla3spCg5CdY8KxAcRc67qSFs-1920.jpg)
Engine bay is regaining its familiar look.
(https://a.d-cd.net/N5qNbIdPFaOvnZuukUmUSnI0kAs-1920.jpg)
New generator wiring.
(https://a.d-cd.net/dc7DGFu_3WdELL86Ag0br0fQAKQ-1920.jpg)
New starter wiring.
(https://a.d-cd.net/S1UPEsf0-AIqstXU_-DeZ2QYP3s-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/1lMv--xCNuVdjeDcUXWhC0uGkNA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/Udd2iLkfaDcu_SVLDJOwxra7L5k-1920.jpg)
A brand-new battery tray from McVey's
(https://a.d-cd.net/SQF_PYoBw7jBJWKCNugF6IFJZY8-1920.jpg)
New battery hold-down plastic frame
(https://a.d-cd.net/R0FdUyDbx-WdUl10KelKtfWr_5k-1920.jpg)
Completely assembled. Top of the oil filter bath was re-painted in correct satin black. The bottom with the sticker is still original.
(https://a.d-cd.net/TUtgbzb0K82A1ukIzAKg191GmyE-1920.jpg)
The reason why the paint was off the top of the filter is the hood insulation, which was rubbing over
(https://a.d-cd.net/zFzXU3wC750DuOw03viN2TRMGoY-1920.jpg)
Now the engine and the engine bay looks the same as it was in 1953. Yes, firewall does not shine like after the modern restorations, which I often see. But! in 1950-s Fisher body used nitro enamels, which had a satin finish, and only after hard buffing they turned to gloss. Note that door frames also do not shine, and I want to keep that car as closer to the original, as it is possible.
Looks really nice!! How long ago did you start this project?
Rick
Quote from: Cadman-iac on January 09, 2025, 11:56:45 AMLooks really nice!! How long ago did you start this project?
Rick
I do it in portions. E.g., suspension + brakes ~ 1 month, Engine bay ~ 5 weeks, etc. I also omit many things that were done with the car, which sometimes takes few days, but you spend them for just cleaning and fixing minor things.
And may be you will want to watch this...
I talk in Russian, but there is a text explaining, what kind of message I try to deliver )))
Interesting video, and a very beautiful car. So it looks like at least for this video anyway, that you started in June of last year?
How long have you been working on your car?
Excellent results!
Rick
Quote from: Cadman-iac on January 09, 2025, 02:23:14 PMInteresting video, and a very beautiful car. So it looks like at least for this video anyway, that you started in June of last year?
How long have you been working on your car?
Excellent results!
Rick
We purchased it in early June 2023. Everything before brakes and propeller shaft was done before April 2024.
Then, April-May 2024 - brakes, suspension; June 2024 - engine. And more is coming...
Quote from: kudims on January 09, 2025, 02:46:56 PMWe purchased it in early June 2023. Everything before brakes and propeller shaft was done before April 2024.
Then, April-May 2024 - brakes, suspension; June 2024 - engine. And more is coming...
I was wondering, because of all the work you showed, I knew it wasn't easy and probably took a while to do.
It'll be like a new car when you're done. Great job!
Rick
Quote from: Cadman-iac on January 09, 2025, 02:59:31 PMI was wondering, because of all the work you showed, I knew it wasn't easy and probably took a while to do.
It'll be like a new car when you're done. Great job!
Rick
Probably it will look like a new car with a subtle hint of patina :D
Continuing with the engine topic
For those of you who watched the video I posted above, this post should be straightforward. For anyone who hasn't, the short version is: there was an oil leak at the rear of the oil pan, and it needed to be fixed.
What can leak at the rear of the oil pan?
The "obvious" suspect is the rear main seal. I installed a two-piece neoprene seal instead of the traditional rope packing. Imagine my surprise when a $45 seal started leaking. No time to sulk, though: we have to drop the pan again and solve the problem.
(https://a.d-cd.net/W_6G0XaCxbzwR-XFiWxKXjphtzE-1920.jpg)
I removed the rear main bearing cap, pulled out the seal. Visually, it looks okay, but the mating surface between the two halves appears melted or deformed—possibly from insufficient assembly lube. I used engine oil instead of grease; maybe a thicker grease would have been a better choice.
(https://a.d-cd.net/syFRYZ_TsjygbiWb5kCdL5n0xDc-1920.jpg)
Not sure if you can see, but the seal's edge is deformed.
(https://a.d-cd.net/xSyEUIc4UCgRuI9iDbBwPkOajLU-1920.jpg)
Waiting for the "Sneaky Pete" rope-seal installer from Amazon was not an option, so I fabricated my own out of stainless steel. This is the blank...
(https://a.d-cd.net/3MnRYqoZg-Bpq8MEt3nj4gnbZ48-1920.jpg)
...and here's the almost-finished tool.
(https://a.d-cd.net/1mHSe3fxxhXoaCuluF-T6LC5zVk-1920.jpg)
It hooks into the rope packing like so. The frayed edges had to be taped up, or else it wouldn't pass through the channel above the crankshaft.
(https://a.d-cd.net/QezUq_r2Ti1yhoAqcwBw0ktIj2Y-1920.jpg)
When pulling the rope seal in, you have to rotate the crankshaft so you only fight friction from the block side.
(https://a.d-cd.net/dY_ZUca04lpUuHY3xOn9gRn_-nA-1920.jpg)
Overall view of the work area. Nice to see everything is still clean.
(https://a.d-cd.net/yxFaj06ourErhR4rBQuyPg12FdQ-1920.jpg)
Do not trim the rope packing flush; gently push it back in with a thin screwdriver or chopstick-like tool to ensure a proper seal. Nothing should protrude beyond the mating surface.
(https://a.d-cd.net/SmVg25LLq_eae076TdVsQfuxesc-1920.jpg)
Same procedure for the packing in the main cap.
(https://a.d-cd.net/5th4i74CVtXV5Zgi7D_UFI6Y48o-1920.jpg)
A drop of sealant on the ends of the rope, plus red anaerobic sealant on the main cap parting line.
(https://a.d-cd.net/q4Be2VpCe_GQUKAyUEFXtiSw9zo-1920.jpg)
I reused the old pan gasket since it wasn't torn. Cleaned it thoroughly and added some sealant.
Reassembled, took a test drive... and found oil trickling down the rear of the pan again. My "joy" knew no bounds.
I started Googling the topic of rear seal leaks on 331 and 365 Cadillac engines. Folks try all sorts of tricks: layering gasket material under the neoprene seal for a tighter fit, or just throwing up their hands—how can it leak again right after a rebuild? The only solid tip I found was that a Cadillac rear seal = a Chrysler 318 rear seal (with slight modifications).
Fel-Pro makes the Chrysler seal, which gives me more confidence than the artisanal seals marketed specifically for 331 Cadillacs. Plus, it's $12 instead of $45.
So I placed an Amazon Prime order for:
FEL-PRO BS 40245 Rear Main Seal Set
FEL-PRO OS 5363 C-2 Oil Pan Gasket Set
Lisle 27000 "Sneaky Pete" Tool
Meanwhile, I removed the pan and main cap yet again, thoroughly confused.
(https://a.d-cd.net/iTAGyCPZnpK_GKpawNBcriiB-rM-1920.jpg)
I had a theory about why the rear leaked, and this scene indirectly confirmed it. The rope packing is bone-dry.
(https://a.d-cd.net/i1686QdmAET3waxSDKgPi65ZNj0-1920.jpg)
A dry rope can't possibly leak streams of oil. You'd see oil residue if that were the culprit—but there's none.
Leaving you in suspense for a moment, we move on to removing the upper half of the seal.
(https://a.d-cd.net/VHPZd2Um-p9_kTINQWASC9PYJ4w-1920.jpg)
The tool.
(https://a.d-cd.net/orlafSvH8Y7xEtVIuZN963loG0I-1920.jpg)
Thread the corkscrew into the old seal.
(https://a.d-cd.net/uaxMjkCN3vMxXRenn6EvdOE4dOY-1920.jpg)
Pull it out like uncorking a bottle (at least I've got experience with that).
Note that many people write about loosening other bolts of crankshaft to lower it down. Never do this, if your transmission is mounted to the engine! It can bend or brake the input shaft and bearings + seals
(https://a.d-cd.net/k4dvGjZh5F4QFcgPjcclpSNMdk4-1920.jpg)
The new neoprene Chrysler seal.
(https://a.d-cd.net/H9Ozd-Cizfp3ugjWDtONYc2jdU0-1920.jpg)
Extra "ears" need trimming.
(https://a.d-cd.net/EbcQzNdxbXfeWJsfjk6pIvgd1Gw-1920.jpg)
Install instructions.
(https://a.d-cd.net/8AXuu5UeiWnw31t1GGNuaT1qr8k-1920.jpg)
The seal halves have a "lock" shape, unlike the simpler butt-joint on the "artisanal" Cadillac seal.
(https://a.d-cd.net/rYRBiUyY0VKY-RIMeDYoLb64je0-1920.jpg)
This time, I smeared grease on the seal lip and crankshaft surface, checking 10 times that the seal was oriented correctly—lip facing into the engine.
(https://a.d-cd.net/pKODCQm4MJCkzi7nKPf-RMjDPLQ-1920.jpg)
Now I hope the mystery is solved: The oil pump supplies oil through the rear main bearing cap into the block's oil passage with no dedicated gasket or seal in that spot. The only thing stopping oil is precision machining, but let's be honest, even the best machining can't guarantee zero leaks—especially in the highest-pressure area. So (my theory) the oil was seeping between the main cap and block, then either entering the seal area and leaking out or going straight to the pan gasket interface and pooling at the lowest point by the rear seal.
Ideally, you'd have a machinist cut a groove around that main cap for an O-ring. I just used red anaerobic sealant around the mating surface.
(https://a.d-cd.net/xBb4REN523TE2tOCkPkAicTmUGY-1920.jpg)
New pan gasket.
(https://a.d-cd.net/nWHmSI-Y9nXr9186FJH8D4mxtq0-1920.jpg)
Pan cleaned to a shine once again.
Tests so far have gone well. In previous attempts it would leak immediately. Now it's dry on the engine side, but I found a separate leak from the front transmission seal (or it may have been there all along, hidden under layers of grime and oil). No big deal, I'll have to pull the transmission and replace that seal. Work twice, oh well.
(https://a.d-cd.net/WW8Jl9ZndtdanSgA2H2DVgN9_sU-1920.jpg)
Ideally, it should look like this: clean, dry, and comfortable to work with.
After 7 months and 500 miles driven on a highway, the rear end of the engine is still dry. So, it makes me confident that I have found the route cause for leak. Please spread this knowledgeable tip among Cadillac owners
(https://a.d-cd.net/ndqGzizrO2scr_3LKOkItH8-y8w-1920.jpg)
And this is the oil I use. High-zinc for flat bottom lifters is a must
(https://a.d-cd.net/Zat-2GIXI3ear1PtGBKZcnhsj5M-1920.jpg)
I compiled a list of parts and local prices. As for the labor, you can judge for yourselves. I'll just mention that having a shop replace a rope-style rear main seal alone can cost around $1,000.
Fixing the Transmission Leaks
In our ongoing saga, the last episode ended with some encouraging news about curbing the rear main seal leaks. At the same time, however, it became clear that the Hydra-Matic is leaking from the front. Not just seeping or dripping, but almost pouring out.
In modern automatics, a front leak would typically point to a failing front seal. But in a 1953 Hydra-Matic, the culprit could be:
(a) The gasket between the crankshaft and flexplate
(b) The gasket between the flexplate and the converter housing
(c) The transmission front pump gasket
(d) The front seal
There's no way to know for certain beforehand, so I went ahead and bought an entire seal-and-gasket kit for $80 (versus the $15 single front seal). No harm in having extras.
Removing the Transmission
(https://a.d-cd.net/SAfIS0NNsdkR9lscqEqmyZdM1_Y-1920.jpg)
A peek at the gasket kit.
The transmission weighs over 100 kg (it's all cast iron—bellhousing, tailhousing, and main case), so you need a serious rig to remove and install it.
(https://a.d-cd.net/cfhNJYjV7lOku95faqoaPjEMWSU-1920.jpg)
This Amazon-sourced transmission-jack adapter has adjustable tilt—absolutely critical, as you'll see.
Buckle up—here we go.
(https://a.d-cd.net/-P0qdssTkPDrsppTF4K1aoulJO0-1920.jpg)
The car is lifted about 18 cm (7 in) off the ground. From experience, that's usually enough to access Phoenix's "abdomen." The weird cap on my head? It's an incredible piece of gear I used to underestimate. With it, you can stand under any kind of oil shower, or even rest your head in an oil puddle, and your hair stays protected.
I drain out the fresh, clean fluid (nearly 15 L) into a clean container, remove the driveshaft, starter, unbolt the left exhaust downpipe (otherwise the flywheel cover won't come out), remove the filler/ dipstick tube, speedometer cable, shift linkages... that should be everything.
Next, I unscrew the 28 bolts that secure the converter housing (the "torus" or "torque converter") to the flexplate.
Then I change into clean clothes and climb inside the cabin.
Accessing the Top Bellhousing Bolts
(https://a.d-cd.net/Bh-10hz4-mxFAWYiM_pK5oKMBuU-1920.jpg)
Under the carpet, there are two access covers for the top bellhousing bolts. People on the forums call these "lost technologies of an earlier civilization," and I can't disagree.
(https://a.d-cd.net/JIiqCPuavbl0s4c-WlX8nozSqv0-1920.jpg)
The covers themselves, being removed for the first time ever.
(https://a.d-cd.net/AsYO5IAUeWLjtKsd0fpzCGxu58Q-1920.jpg)
A jack under the transmission, plus a second jack (with a plywood crosspiece) under the engine oil pan so it doesn't get dented or scratched.
(https://a.d-cd.net/LUsia531-ljxrvWFi7vxoIqh-no-1920.jpg)
Unbolt the rear transmission mount and slowly roll the jack backward. Unlike modern transmissions, once those 28 converter bolts are removed, the converter itself only moves rearward by about 1–2 mm. Past that, you have to shift the transmission back and lower it so the input shaft can pull out of the crank bushing.
(https://a.d-cd.net/C1JC2M4OcN2-AxsUxRLT5Z9-RMs-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/dei4GCEf4hb6ayhfWZnE3TQPpVc-1920.jpg)
Commencing Apollo-Soyuz separation.
(https://a.d-cd.net/6dYWlL_6LyK32fYA9dfjULHpmcw-1920.jpg)
Gradually lowering it, passing through the dense layers of the atmosphere. A thin paper gasket sits between the converter housing and the flexplate, which has disintegrated into flakes.
(https://a.d-cd.net/TTsonRb3M9RxVFON3Gy6nzhI8d4-1920.jpg)
How you feel after such a procedure...
Disassembling the Converter
(https://a.d-cd.net/ACHBWPYQha0SdxiiMjH4jqwsWgI-1920.jpg)
The "torus" can be taken apart. The turbine wheel is held by a nut; the pump wheel by a snap ring.
(https://a.d-cd.net/pm-gXJbAm0ajHlihug68By6TYKA-1920.jpg)
Converter housing.
(https://a.d-cd.net/G-3CF4dobSOj-ThmrxNAxCNYySE-1920.jpg)
Damper springs. By the way, leaks can also come through these rivets.
(https://a.d-cd.net/33vN2880Ssm4wZZ353hOybxQo88-1920.jpg)
Removing the bellhousing. This lets me thoroughly clean and paint the upper area, which was unreachable when the transmission was in the car.
(https://a.d-cd.net/TnavQm1FZPE1rnmzEGm8jTs3UVU-1920.jpg)
Cleaned and painted the top of the transmission too, since we're here. Finally got to the seal that needs replacing.
(https://a.d-cd.net/ETyYCEUldpc845Y3cEzGn1CI5Vw-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/jkGuPcq66hYC4Wa8EL8feb443Ts-1920.jpg)
Might as well wash and refresh the inside of the tunnel. Following 1950s GM practice: drips, runs, and uneven coverage are all "factory correct."
(https://a.d-cd.net/IHnjUYb7ELQGpHxLX_cA31qfjBc-1920.jpg)
The extracted front seal, with its original part number.
(https://a.d-cd.net/XARkrP4E3lSthb8dbBotGNSptEs-1920.jpg)
Transmission without the front seal. Notice it has three shafts. They sure don't build them like this anymore.
(https://a.d-cd.net/Kt7BfXBaZnvWJhBJLKoNIxqw9Fg-1920.jpg)
Installing this SKF 25950 seal.
(https://a.d-cd.net/H7-bZDO_HJ5bAkZ91s98ushZugU-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/dgChyI600P7iWK9QF5RZvt6UyEA-1920.jpg)
Lubricating the seal bore with plenty of red grease. The seal's inner area also needs lube because there's a cast-iron sealing ring inside (similar to a piston ring) plus a conical surface for compressing that ring. Must be installed carefully—no scoring or ring breakage.
(https://a.d-cd.net/y8ENhJxNU6WPDu3x9QMySGgwTfk-1920.jpg)
A perfect example of why you need a tilt-adjustable platform. The X-shaped crossmember won't let the transmission drop straight down. You must angle it forward under the engine before rolling it free of the frame.
(https://a.d-cd.net/m24YmWKPPF9cId9BTDPfUI_QOZc-1920.jpg)
Using grease to hold the new converter gasket in place. The converter only fits one way, thanks to two alignment pins—one is 3/8 in in diameter, the other 5/16 in (about 10 mm and 8.5 mm). You can try to misalign them, but you can't.
(https://a.d-cd.net/T8aLlrgoPW3qhsN98FLnhN2kNZY-1920.jpg)
This thin paper gasket required hours of meticulous scraping to remove the old remnants. The flexplate and converter housing have several circular grooves that interlock when bolted together, forming a reliable labyrinth seal once the gasket is compressed. Sealant is a no-go here.
Tightening the 28 Converter Bolts
After reattaching the transmission to the engine, the fun really begins: you must torque 28 bolts (5/16 in, ~8.5 mm) to 54 N·m (40 ft·lbf) in about five passes. Specifically:
Turn the flexplate to hand-tighten each bolt until it contacts the split lock washer.
Torque pass #1: 10 N·m.
Torque pass #2: 20 N·m.
Torque pass #3: 30 N·m.
Torque pass #4: 42 N·m.
Torque pass #5: 54 N·m.
I've never torqued 8 mm bolts this high. Admittedly, they are extremely strong, but I had to use a 9/16 in socket on a 1/4 in-drive ratchet plus a universal joint and extension—because there's no room for a standard wrench or larger socket.
After spinning the flexplate until I was practically dizzy—like a carnival ride—I reassembled everything else by feel, half-asleep...
(https://a.d-cd.net/TdFtegcvWCpNW6zrRZyri3Aypi4-1920.jpg)
Sandblasted and painted the crossmember matte black.
(https://a.d-cd.net/wy5Cime-cfpZBpPDXQwTj8GfaQc-1920.jpg)
Beauty can be ruthless.
(https://a.d-cd.net/XzzIlOW401MItMY_AFIjoyFJf7E-1920.jpg)
Time for testing!
The test drive and further driving showed zero leaks from both engine and transmission, which makes me happy - time and money spent for worth.
Nice job! On my '56 & '57 cars, I did more or less the same, but without the fancy transmission's support.
Just a small explanation: your car don't have a torque converter, but a fluid coupling. A torque converter is multiplying the engine's torque thanks the third member, the stator. This is why your transmission has 4 "speeds" because the fluid coupling cannot do it.
Quote from: Roger Zimmermann on January 11, 2025, 12:11:26 PMNice job! On my '56 & '57 cars, I did more or less the same, but without the fancy transmission's support.
Just a small explanation: your car don't have a torque converter, but a fluid coupling. A torque converter is multiplying the engine's torque thanks the third member, the stator. This is why your transmission has 4 "speeds" because the fluid coupling cannot do it.
Fair comment. Yes, I know this, but for the sake of simplicity and familiar wording, I used that term.
Thank you for following the topic, Roger.
Rear Taillights
They're in good shape overall, but still needed to be removed, disassembled, cleaned of oxidation, rewired (the cloth insulation had deteriorated with age), then put back together and reinstalled. The left taillight, which flips open, required a bit more attention—its spring had weakened over time and no longer held the flip-up piece securely in the open position.
(https://a.d-cd.net/dE0-Kdjf5jkIBXYtHqkwZnp13N4-1920.jpg)
A taillight unit that's already been serviced and reassembled.
(https://a.d-cd.net/tC-XUztFZ5sw9-bFDIDXDoIPYYg-1920.jpg)
Taillights from 1951 through 1953 are the same. All the lighting components were supplied by Guide. I have, of course, newly fabricated lenses even with "Guide" embossing, but I will replace them only after the original lenses become fade and totally cracked. Now the idea is to show the original car in it's 72 years glory.
(https://a.d-cd.net/_99PzTPDOP_dKCi332a9LsxmAao-1920.jpg)
New protective cloth insulation where the wiring rubs against the filler-neck boot. First, I wanted to replace the clamp with a stainless one... But then I understood that I want to keep this original non-plated, from bare metal. It's not rusted.
(https://a.d-cd.net/lUBHmdDeLy6VhKjJnDhElUYGokg-1920.jpg)
The flip-up mechanism.
(https://a.d-cd.net/dgnYl0lShIOLV4QaInD52nggNRo-1920.jpg)
A couple more shots.
(https://a.d-cd.net/5fyCRG0hCdQGf6G-xkL1F5J0lQM-1920.jpg)
Adding two washers under the spring solved the issue of not staying open.
(https://a.d-cd.net/Jq-cU2PhqmSdbXI8Yh0kC-fY5-Y-1920.jpg)
Reinstalled and tested.
Fog lamps and Headlights
(https://a.d-cd.net/JUEYNkO5un0bbDLX4otOOx4bQIw-1920.jpg)
Fog lamps housings were sandblasted and coated with a hammer-finish enamel. The housing itself is solid and rust-free. Usually, what I see on the web, is totally corroded.
(https://a.d-cd.net/kpZJLFSY_NKWHbj8IR_C7jG_0-A-1920.jpg)
New cloth wiring re-soldered.
(https://a.d-cd.net/ioEXYB6QyB0QUNFJgnvV_oy_T7M-1920.jpg)
Turn signal, parking light, and fog light.
(https://a.d-cd.net/zDMO46WSvj01XQEVFnWkTIXDR0U-1920.jpg)
Reassembly process. Here I made new stainless clamps for original rubber seals
(https://a.d-cd.net/WEfpBAZjKyGdDvLjjaH-rwf0-WM-1920.jpg)
The cover with a new gasket.
(https://a.d-cd.net/GoMG7CynOJjwsdFM83SGF0WbGDM-1920.jpg)
Front view.
(https://a.d-cd.net/0SjmfzBFxPQ8mrhlFZI1a3Prfks-1920.jpg)
All-new bolts and washers, 100% identical to the originals.
(https://a.d-cd.net/XDBDSdglG8inho5nSboVZma2Mt4-1920.jpg)
Appears to have been dip-painted at the factory, leaving an unpainted spot (likely an air pocket) inside. I left it as is—after 70 years, there isn't any rust. I just touched up the edge locally.
(https://a.d-cd.net/1tMNju7Co7a6fY8JQNUXm7D7qOg-1920.jpg)
Both headlights have new wiring in a new cloth harness. Unfortunately, the original rubber wiring seals cracked, so I had to replace them with a modern ones, as I didn't find the true refabrication of original seals. Not a big deal, though.
(https://a.d-cd.net/tf089i3_zLJKuJ7Kr5_LwZPLD5g-1920.jpg)
Halogen sealed-beam headlamps (the type where the entire lamp is replaced, not just the bulb).
(https://a.d-cd.net/D3K1U1mN64JAQ_lkZPxnSxE6A2k-1920.jpg)
Installed.
(https://a.d-cd.net/E7ZTd82GkWlIqDd8_DFt3zXtMgU-1920.jpg)
Here's how it looks from inside. I replicated the factory markings with red and yellow paint.
(https://a.d-cd.net/eZ8BsG2wSzbMpFZGcDJ1GvlyQsM-1920.jpg)
Connector block on the left fender, with a matching one on the right side as well.
is that original chrome on the taillights? Dave
New Exhaust, Part 1
(https://a.d-cd.net/sj-iSMqllqE3707VA9U2t7nk4fQ-1920.jpg)
New stainless exhaust from Waldron
(https://a.d-cd.net/7wSXM5lP4KdSxxPqxLAbCNolvMY-1920.jpg)
Mufflers
(https://a.d-cd.net/0dGKHFfTBwreLDzmpSFZFwvLxw4-1920.jpg)
Hangers and stainless clamps
(https://a.d-cd.net/oFEUrsBPYM3vru_-r8VdjaW88tw-1920.jpg)
Unpacking
(https://a.d-cd.net/5_KbO2m95r6sjEsm1hPRujkU1uQ-1920.jpg)
Resonators (all 60-Specials must have them)
(https://a.d-cd.net/UUi4FAHePDrS9L6btwcDdpi_4Zs-1920.jpg)
Inside
(https://a.d-cd.net/hXDYaiIqtJQFxNjf0IegcVodwk0-1920.jpg)
Put all together
(https://a.d-cd.net/R9evBnFdmmLpfuH4fkrvCD0BsQE-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/UPhB6LeRK7BLnopo5KgcSSb_814-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/nXW_v5qCTe_vrOtHvmYJJ_6bJ-U-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/tDvySYSF3AR12MrpC-L7hHOb6JY-1920.jpg)
Full length tailpipes (no cuts)
Of course, this will not be installed "as is". First, there will be a full underbody and frame cleaning, sanding, and painting to make it look as close to the original, as it came from the Fisher body in 1953... But it seems that I will not be able to repeat the same poor quality. However, will try my best.
Exhaust: Pre-requisites
The exhaust system was ordered back in the spring 2024, and I received it in early summer. Obviously, you can't just take and install a new exhaust system.
(https://a.d-cd.net/XAr1ocv_zS5u44MWk4cVfde7Yl0-1920.jpg)
On a hot morning, September 29th, I secluded myself in the garage and started the process. The American "feature", which I've seen many times, is to weld exhaust pipes rather than connect them with clamps. During disassembly, cutting is the only option. I didn't want to use an angle grinder, so I cut everything with a Makita cordless multitool.
(https://a.d-cd.net/QMJoSIfPCP1p8LVrM7Q2YegqXjc-1920.jpg)
The left exhaust faced the same fate.
(https://a.d-cd.net/y7CXHrYJA01_X_Qu8EdbKRz353k-1920.jpg)
Condition of the rear exhaust pipes.
(https://a.d-cd.net/CEhfrx00XpS-x8TeHE6_8vcppwA-1920.jpg)
This is the so-called "Heat Riser," which originally had a valve that directed gases from the left manifold to the right through a channel in the intake manifold to heat the carburetor. As the engine warmed up, the bimetallic spring straightened, and the valve fully opened, redirecting gases from the left cylinder head to the left exhaust tract. This system isn't necessarily unreliable, but for Texas, it's even harmful. A new Heat Riser for a 1953 Cadillac costs around $500. And, yes, the gas is different today and needs much less heat to evaporate...
(https://a.d-cd.net/baoQNxe3ATWI3h2D5s3ze_lm3Gk-1920.jpg)
Then began a monotone and painful cleaning process. From every crevice of the frame, I dug out thick debris that even Dry Ice Blasting couldn't reach. This is just a small portion of what was removed—a very dirty job.
(https://a.d-cd.net/cBI35hvpdQWfq1ID9yBrJP8n4XM-1920.jpg)
Once all the hidden areas of the underbody and frame were cleaned of dirt, I used about 5 liters of xylene and an untold number of paper towels and rags to degrease the frame and underbody for further work. A dozen of different toothbrushes were utilized )))
(https://a.d-cd.net/X8k9HWLUYhACejwnHXWZWKKxcKM-1920.jpg)
The body was originally primed at the factory with Red Oxide Primer. In some places, the primer had worn off, leaving a light layer of surface rust on the body.
(https://a.d-cd.net/-ybnkVN5ekgEJbU4MJEbHvVdOk8-1920.jpg)
I sanded off the remnants of the primer using 100-grit sandpaper.
(https://a.d-cd.net/n6TsKRRk6zMkjGG3OSnbSs7PLlA-1920.jpg)
Here are the copper air conditioning pipes running along the right side of the body.
(https://a.d-cd.net/D0ZjB7lLeSb-hWRM7IRH_2HWwfs-1920.jpg)
Right side: openings for the exhaust system.
Since this is not my first restoration project (I've started playing with these cars back in 1995), I have practiced different ways of preparing surfaces for paint, etc. Of course, some projects required total sandblasting and framing-off (I will probably start a new thread soon showcasing another Cadillac in my collection), but with this very case we should be very gentle. Remember that sandblasting and ortho is not the panacea, and here it would have negative long-lasting effect.
(https://a.d-cd.net/XR6OtHcMl4ztYZBrGx1wHMtZ4Iw-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/M_3V8FQkMvP1GQ44RWw_fFWrRNo-1920.jpg)
Covering every piece that can be harmed by the red oxide primer dips
(https://a.d-cd.net/j3nknUiyQEfCI84gHWpNK2ho2j0-1920.jpg)
This is what was chosen as the best fit-for-purpose in the current case. Next, I'll paint the frame with black Rust-Oleum Hammered Enamel for rusted surfaces. I applied two layers with a 2-inch roller, and in hard-to-reach areas, I used a 1-inch long-bristle brush.
(https://a.d-cd.net/RhrHj64QghPPxfMpgTstqOiGkt4-1920.jpg)
The frame has been painted (I'm not showing the results to keep the suspense), and everything has been wrapped in protective film. Next, I'll paint the underbody with red-brown primer with Rust-Oleum corrosion inhibitors.
(https://a.d-cd.net/G1OX7t-LPWkijG0BY-yL8tyYHy0-1920.jpg)
Everything that could be dripped on with paint is being protected. I'll apply the paint using both a roller and a brush for even coverage and deep penetration. Between coats, I'll sand with 240-grit sandpaper.
(https://a.d-cd.net/qkHc1NO0HiV-FRKx48MU460Yvps-1920.jpg)
Here's the view after applying the first coat. You can see a bit of the frame after painting here.
(https://a.d-cd.net/YrqGmxOrsbUQaRUBqtG5ZLuq-M8-1920.jpg)
The insert that distinguishes the 60 series from the 62 series (the 62 doesn't have this). This is how much longer the Fleetwood's wheelbase is compared to the sedan or convertible.
(https://a.d-cd.net/GbF9JtotPW0ttrYm41SK7UIxxrg-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/6Rccqn4lpJhXAlmf1d-OoTIGQVI-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/qJ3tHcAAQdrmRI50omTs1GJQi1s-1920.jpg)
Visible streaks are from the factory primer, as the bodies were primed by immersion in a bath.
(https://a.d-cd.net/TFftOZJLmajfGJhXwmQ2z-iMU84-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/OAnv5dqAP6Zw-N66RgMeko87v_M-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/Tk-t-LXZiC455mzvJp7eTis53Ds-1920.jpg)
The second heater and hoses for it.
Meanwhile, I had to prepare a ton of other things for installing the exhaust.
(https://a.d-cd.net/tx7lnls71F1l2gzlR24F2tZBXxo-1920.jpg)
I ordered hangers to create ones as close as possible to the originals. I decided not to use the universal hangers that came with the exhaust. Also, new bushings for the rear shock absorbers.
(https://a.d-cd.net/EOy1nKC3gueGa9DOQtAwmnFsrLo-1920.jpg)
These stainless bolts are for mounting the hangers instead of the original rivets with rounded heads.
(https://a.d-cd.net/OUYU53K0Ttkyc3Wt3ixlNyUoErg-1920.jpg)
A sleeve for the downpipes. It withstands temperatures up to 2000°F, with stainless steel clamps for securing it.
(https://a.d-cd.net/1PWC2ygzVFKcgK6-nzNBWDozr84-1920.jpg)
It will look something like this. Originally, the downpipes were wrapped in asbestos-containing material and clamped with some infernal clamps. After weighing all the pros and cons, I made the executive decision to do it nicely and more efficiently.
(https://a.d-cd.net/fQ9XVYFNl4idprVCk7nbsIR6tHg-1920.jpg)
These hangers will be disassembled; I only need the rubber from them.
(https://a.d-cd.net/s8gPS3EJb5yZe-5DsghM40n5O0M-1920.jpg)
... and this rubber will be used instead of trunk straps on the original hangers, which still need some work.
(https://a.d-cd.net/ewTmunUZ2N0JoADtpQWSfoRx4qI-1920.jpg)
The hangers were aggressively welded instead of being held by clamps.
(https://a.d-cd.net/MI5g5OjxYOQ6brAUBtKdABGmzGo-1920.jpg)
And the last photo for today: the old exhaust logically goes into the trash bin
Lastly, these photos are taken after the 1-st coat applied. Then it will be sanded and primed again, covering what was not covered at the first time, and giving the flat uniform surface.
As you closed the canal for the carb pre-heating, you don't need the heat riser. Maybe you will need a spacer for the exhaust geometry.
"This is the so-called "Heat Riser," which originally had a valve that directed gases from the left manifold to the right through a channel in the intake manifold to heat the carburetor. As the engine warmed up, the bimetallic spring straightened, and the valve fully opened, redirecting gases from the left cylinder head to the left exhaust tract. This system isn't necessarily unreliable, but for Texas, it's even harmful. A new Heat Riser for a 1953 Cadillac costs around $500. And, yes, the gas is different today and needs much less heat to evaporate..."
I (painfujlly) recall having exhaust valves burn and fail way back in the late 1960's, probably due to a partially opened but thoroughly frozen heat riser flapper . Even though that car received regular maintenance, no one ever seemed inclined to check mine for operation. Was this device limited to Cadillacs and therefore a rarity?
Quote from: James Landi on January 15, 2025, 06:58:20 AM"This is the so-called "Heat Riser," which originally had a valve that directed gases from the left manifold to the right through a channel in the intake manifold to heat the carburetor. As the engine warmed up, the bimetallic spring straightened, and the valve fully opened, redirecting gases from the left cylinder head to the left exhaust tract. This system isn't necessarily unreliable, but for Texas, it's even harmful. A new Heat Riser for a 1953 Cadillac costs around $500. And, yes, the gas is different today and needs much less heat to evaporate..."
I (painfujlly) recall having exhaust valves burn and fail way back in the late 1960's, probably due to a partially opened but thoroughly frozen heat riser flapper . Even though that car received regular maintenance, no one ever seemed inclined to check mine for operation. Was this device limited to Cadillacs and therefore a rarity?
Many cars have it. Design is different, but idea is similar: guide hot exhaust gases towards the intake to heat the carb while engine is not hot enough
New exhaust, Part 3
Well, let's continue—or rather, finish up today with the exhaust system.
The photos and captions speak for themselves. No introduction needed.
(https://a.d-cd.net/xGptaD8J5Zmv3RW8E9ET-dgGnrE-1920.jpg)
Exhaust muffler mounts. Photos of the rusty ones were in the previous report. These have already been sandblasted and painted.
(https://a.d-cd.net/HTlyJ2_nGeiUCmKYaTFNJn63ZXY-1920.jpg)
New rubber mounts and support washers for the shock absorber rods. The shock absorbers themselves have been cleaned to a shiny original bronze finish.
(https://a.d-cd.net/pm0f0bNww11_-N4wduk942f-8zc-1920.jpg)
Last time there were photos of the undercarriage in primer. At the Fisher Body factory, body painting included spraying over the primer. I tried to replicate this to the best of my ability, it turned out moderately spooky, which kinda emphasizes the imitation of originality.
(https://a.d-cd.net/iXlGkr1TRHSxRA0oaLGwIKjtTlw-1920.jpg)
The spray was directed precisely according to how the painter held the gun.
(https://a.d-cd.net/9LsItT3nsrx07brtEMD2iIDJTdM-1920.jpg)
Preparation of mounts. I applied red thread sealant to make sure it definitely wouldn't come loose.
(https://a.d-cd.net/Mi3b63aGs1wjOgkuzuaUMZ3Dpko-1920.jpg)
Instead of a heat riser, there will be a spacer made of two stainless steel flanges. The height of the spacer is exactly what I need. Without the spacer pipes won't set up.
(https://a.d-cd.net/YtCkBGz7VEoLj2wIQ5gL6UWrLQI-1920.jpg)
Fastening the downpipes in stockings.
(https://a.d-cd.net/_OBxNPBe9hKvyJamqoV7ruF73tU-1920.jpg)
Sealing the flanges with high-temperature sealant.
(https://a.d-cd.net/x60c_zIYQkZTyEcQ1I0zeL2b23o-1920.jpg)
The left downpipe is ready.
(https://a.d-cd.net/bihV22AIjr0vaNpevgiDTx7AJy4-1920.jpg)
The right pipe is also ready.
(https://a.d-cd.net/ftvBimvMxvPlheji9SFaXCtnF18-1920.jpg)
New special bolts for mounting the air conditioner evaporator to replace the slightly rusted originals.
(https://a.d-cd.net/9eIx8-qy24ysNNs-OPUN5vE5j1o-1920.jpg)
The only part of the entire exhaust made of regular steel are two flanges for attaching the intake pipes. Everything else, including clamps and mounts, is stainless steel.
(https://a.d-cd.net/exgolBX-duiaJVj4PGrtp10qxf8-1920.jpg)
The right intake pipe is also in place.
(https://a.d-cd.net/STGJcDtKxstD18m4QLAvpWpmo9k-1920.jpg)
Assembling the exhaust is a separate LEGO game, considering the complex shape of the pipes and the route, which is not straight at all.
(https://a.d-cd.net/ad8RzGxH6aCS7SnYOyaXX3V5K2A-1920.jpg)
Driver's side. Fuel lines, frame.
(https://a.d-cd.net/hLy14sTT8cYReK6_eonESut-jtw-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/Ir3NELbtqHZs40IjY47ch0sppWc-1920.jpg)
Heater hoses over the left muffler.
(https://a.d-cd.net/f70uJNRq860g_augOrNTVccWdmA-1920.jpg)
Who would say the body wasn't removed from the frame? ;-)
(https://a.d-cd.net/JX9Rt1TBC8ImIqLDJIzmQBwTRok-1920.jpg)
Central tunnel and propeller shaft
(https://a.d-cd.net/PZrYYeXQCqzU55JlTObcZofJU3A-1920.jpg)
Left muffler mounts
(https://a.d-cd.net/3u99HnSy0QJ6VF4_-kSD-NXhWgs-1920.jpg)
Again, left side. Body mounts were kept original, as they are in great shape. I personally don't believe that the new body mounts will look the same after 70+ years of service.
(https://a.d-cd.net/fyDKtkuvPyE2i35lG2uehnRRwVk-1920.jpg)
Supplementary electrical GM pump. Huh, I see that I forgot to install new rubber body plug ))))
(https://a.d-cd.net/fIU_pIhMi6cl6Xg-ExdtHJ2LUfQ-1920.jpg)
Left parking brake cable and resonator
(https://a.d-cd.net/3ag07JxaVWPnTc-TjE9uTr8IOtA-1920.jpg)
Right muffler and hangers
(https://a.d-cd.net/iB7nSwbgAGUOedEsH9KNjLX5e8o-1920.jpg)
Copper air conditioning lines were cleaned of oxidation with 800, 1200, 2000 grit sandpapers with water.
(https://a.d-cd.net/2CRbC5gwkhYFMA3Mh0YfprN6Cok-1920.jpg)
Air conditioning pipes. Under the filter-drier, the factory frame marking with white paint is preserved. There, in particular, is the manufacturing date. I decided to leave this spot untouched. Especially since it's well preserved, protected by the filter.
(https://a.d-cd.net/YTioxlBkfFOvEtaGbjwq98G3am8-1920.jpg)
New rubber on an aluminum clamp, new original screw, and special crown nut washer. All for the sake of Feng Shui.
(https://a.d-cd.net/qVHJb0R_p3CJ_qWI1PbOUzCvs6A-1920.jpg)
Right muffler. Connection with the downpipe.
(https://a.d-cd.net/ztgSeEx-PrWNGgbsA7LovMc2OMs-1920.jpg)
Left downpipe and left muffler.
(https://a.d-cd.net/1wHJD3-gqpj2LttNrzuqSrd_PsI-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/Ec_MZQfVvOXSib1d1oR6UZ9kzQk-1920.jpg)
A/C copper pipes shine like on a battleship
(https://a.d-cd.net/G8tS2-gflNKzDfrBMafuI3841Lc-1920.jpg)
Mounting the air conditioner evaporator and the right drainage hole.
(https://a.d-cd.net/UGjt5RdL9VUfY2QUSeymCJ29FCU-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/s0KsjnMYCEMQe_FfkiupzrBJhYc-1920.jpg)
Resonator mounts.
(https://a.d-cd.net/KHRmuyMSANVGM5kD01V9fYaSpBg-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/9yi4SC2MR4H9fTuOW9tcDdisv3E-1920.jpg)
Right bumper outlet. Aftermarket exhaust tips were renovated to some extent, nevertheless, new ones are needed. I am going to send rear bumper and few other pieces of trim for re-chroming soon. With those tips... The price $800 and more, which people ask for those pieces of steel (even not stainless) is not fair. Now I have several opportunities to launch its fabrication. The only thing that really stops me is how many of them to produce. There should be a balance between number of produced and the final price. For instance, production batch of 500 will give final price $100, but how long will it take to sell them? Or, production batch of 200 will result in final price $200, but will be sold immediately :)
(https://a.d-cd.net/slJNq2gDmrJ1L3LiDrhefGOZFpU-1920.jpg)
Left bumper outlet. The crossbeam between the frame and the wing was brutally perforated by welding. This happened during an exhaust upgrade when the pipe ends were equipped with elbows for gas exit past the bumper. Naturally, all this will be removed when the bumper is re-chromed.
(https://a.d-cd.net/6iS4l0ujAWWneLYkGV53r24Uul8-1920.jpg)
The left exhaust pipe passes within millimeters of the fuel tank neck, and that's how it's supposed to be by the factory.
(https://a.d-cd.net/adMtLQzPlqlLlaqjKYu5iOXVnD8-1920.jpg)
Original leaf spring insulators
(https://a.d-cd.net/Olds6-bEIWdJkTR3P4vjUrXTcJ0-1920.jpg)
I think that I need to make better looking photos from the car lifter. Should I?
Quote from: Roger Zimmermann on January 15, 2025, 02:40:40 AMAs you closed the canal for the carb pre-heating, you don't need the heat riser. Maybe you will need a spacer for the exhaust geometry.
Roger, thank you for the comment.
Those passages through the carb throttle plate were clogged by some unknown high-temp resistance substance long ago, so I just made it more fancy with locking bolts.
The intake now acts as if the engine is hot from the very beginning. Nevertheless, when the engine is on, there are some gases travelling inside the intake, as I monitor higher temperature locally over the passage.
And the spacer, yes, of course - to keep the correct layout.
Olson's Gaskets is selling a gasket set for the intake manifold which has the cross-over holes blocked. This prevents the manifold to be heated.
Quote from: Roger Zimmermann on January 16, 2025, 03:26:11 AMOlson's Gaskets is selling a gasket set for the intake manifold which has the cross-over holes blocked. This prevents the manifold to be heated.
But as far as I understand, it also prevents the original choke from working correctly because the choke tube nog longer gets heated. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Quote from: Roger Zimmermann on January 16, 2025, 03:26:11 AMOlson's Gaskets is selling a gasket set for the intake manifold which has the cross-over holes blocked. This prevents the manifold to be heated.
Not sure that this is the best solution ever. The manifold must be heated, as otherwise it will be cooled by the gas mix vapor, and the engine will not work as intended. Me, living in South Texas with summer temperatures ~100F, never had issues with overheating the intake. But at the same time, when we were driving high mountains in Wyoming with snow in June and temperatures ~32F, we also never had issues with cooling down of the intake
Quote from: cadman59 on January 16, 2025, 06:03:17 AMBut as far as I understand, it also prevents the original choke from working correctly because the choke tube no longer gets heated. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Choke gets heat directly from the exhaust manifold, here Roger talks about blocking intake passages. So, no problem with that
Quote from: kudims on January 16, 2025, 09:08:42 AMChoke gets heat directly from the exhaust manifold, here Roger talks about blocking intake passages. So, no problem with that
Ah, my fault, must be different then compared to my '59 where it gets it's heat from the infamous heat tube in the intake manifold.
Correct hose clamps, NOS wiper blades, NOS washer jar, NOS molding
Here are some artefacts that were found, purchased. Some of the were installed, some of them went to the shelf.
(https://a.d-cd.net/E-aDDyYhetP_pf8ioPdw127V1j8-1920.jpg)
New windshield washer kit, exactly what was installed in 1953
(https://a.d-cd.net/Gt8BQ65xMSvuZ6TZVd9fVy3IzWg-1920.jpg)
The sticker is not Cadillac-type, but this is not a problem
(https://a.d-cd.net/wtP5YCRRbuC1_oH6teI-Uq5IeG4-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/vVmGWAoizfeSoIk9it3Rq-qxu-M-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/ptzCSz9KFGgOyALylVadN0_Tszo-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/0G9hPFSeTzGGlU-AxBMWjcXKT9Q-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/TH-XREjf85tTHm2oVpPejyGYLvc-1920.jpg)
New correct wiper blades
(https://a.d-cd.net/_-40JpbTVmI1QEacxc15t1sMDPg-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/bks88mC__rwzh8CggW_09DSqQTU-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/66XwS75BryrvY0UvAtjKXjn0bHI-1920.jpg)
New (top), and what was on the car (bottom)
(https://a.d-cd.net/2POUrYcKNRRF0732t0YNHaliLdo-1920.jpg)
Patents. patents...
(https://a.d-cd.net/0_RGIpfW77TyA-gqHXoY-1IodqU-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/oJKGnD1UkibGVuHgHE6Xk1YpFEk-1920.jpg)
Installed
(https://a.d-cd.net/KbPAXQfgmVIi3eNWqCGOxQ2z6CQ-1920.jpg)
New 1953 Fleetwood molding from Cadillac dealer stock, which was closed in 1954
(https://a.d-cd.net/4kxDYkTHtqhKUdAv4V0jrOAI0GI-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/QdnQZi66wjtlffuUDfwFLrHU-Ww-1920.jpg)
Goes to the shelf
(https://a.d-cd.net/E5AvBodCsbC2Fy9kmju6UuNJSCY-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/ZnbvuHgxGoalrK2msFEnCwKx_NQ-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/BLcPsRSw1BzztcpVd5DbZAlNenE-1920.jpg)
New set of stainless clamps
(https://a.d-cd.net/tKXraubbbl5QIYAHIpX244nnrjc-1920.jpg)
Installed
(https://a.d-cd.net/Wwh-Bs8PZpkE7xugEsYE8ba7B8A-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/wOJmceufj2tQJH_xLpJr4De35oo-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/OkuqhcUvqLBXInOyvDQx7A9oCMw-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/7pcg3fdnI1aCp-nuJD2-ulKwX9w-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/UneUi6dP00T0Fdlp-jVzIVaWH00-1920.jpg)
Finally for today, may be this is not "AACA correct", but believe me, now it is much more easier to check the transmission fluid level with the dipstick marked in red
(https://a.d-cd.net/hvAlb3dEbW38IvE3M9sjtCgDens-1920.jpg)
And the same with the motor oil dipstick
Well, the very final photo for today is the set of magnets from the Rockauto.com
(https://a.d-cd.net/SBtjbQXNUNziKi2pg7A4zG6kIKM-1920.jpg)
I still have a dozen of them. So, if someone reading this post will want to have one, please PM me with your name and address where to send.
Quote from: cadman59 on January 16, 2025, 09:26:18 AMAh, my fault, must be different then compared to my '59 where it gets it's heat from the infamous heat tube in the intake manifold.
That's right. Till 1958, the heated air for the choke is coming from the RH exhaust manifold. As 1959 cars and younger are less prone to vapor lock, this special set is making less sense for those cars.
Toe-in adjustment
After repeatedly disconnecting the center steering link and replacing the steering gear, the steering wheel spokes ended up slightly off-center—about 5 degrees to the right when driving straight. I decided to fix this on an alignment rack...
But I couldn't find a local alignment rack that could clamp to my wheels—most clamps in my area hook onto the rim, whereas I needed a Hunter system that grabs the tire tread instead (the reason for that is the low wheel arch fender line both in front and rear, even with skirts removed). I checked everywhere within a 15-mile radius. Beyond that, I couldn't be bothered. So I pulled out the manual and did it the old-school way.
(https://a.d-cd.net/_-qwLpSbhr5_DWX-X4uKmUGNJpM-1920.jpg)
An excerpt from the manual with instructions for adjusting camber, caster, and toe-in.
(https://a.d-cd.net/AHgtbgSXK7clTWMYmbExhoU37Ug-1920.jpg)
First, jack up the front end and mark the high-spot points on each tire with chalk. For toe, these reference marks should be rotated to the 12 o'clock position.
(https://a.d-cd.net/j1KuYCGo_BJN5sxV2rwbPyeqUHI-1920.jpg)
Same process on the left wheel.
(https://a.d-cd.net/QHD0kXCtghawWy3o6PqphBY4CYQ-1920.jpg)
Then I built this little jig from a 2×4. The short vertical pieces need to align with the wheel centers when the car is on the ground. Thanks to my miter saw, they're perfectly 90° angles, but that's not crucial; the main thing is that it's sturdy and doesn't wobble.
(https://a.d-cd.net/QtpIkRr7njKASo-_MW7e6NXI0B0-1920.jpg)
I slide it in place at the front first, then at the rear.
(https://a.d-cd.net/TcLwW29LrGApYyKvsFrutXx8kZM-1920.jpg)
On one side, the gauge just touches the tire...
(https://a.d-cd.net/YBqCDpB35PUTC_xGo0QfegCr940-1920.jpg)
...and on the other side, I measure. With this method, the front measurement should be larger than the rear measurement.
To correct the steering wheel spokes (they were slightly rotated to the right), I needed to turn both wheels to the right via the tie rods. I shortened the right rod and lengthened the left one by turning each sleeve 1/4 turn.
Afterward, I measured an overall toe-in of 1.3 mm (≈ 0.051 in).
(https://a.d-cd.net/NgVu9sasqYM35PtZkfvTxso-6as-1920.jpg)
For 1953 specs, toe should range from 0.0625 to 0.125 in.
So in my case, I needed to increase toe-in. I turned the left tie rod another 1/4 turn to make it longer. Tightened it and measured again. Toe-in became 2.6 mm (≈ 0.1 in), which is right within spec.
A test drive confirmed the wheel spokes are now perfectly level, and the car tracks steadily at any speed.
Dmitry,
I can relate to your troubles trying to locate an older style wheel alignment shop.
I found that anyone that works on trucks has the correct gear to work on vehicles that don't need the rears to align with the front. I found this when working on Hot Rods with different front and rear suspensions (read as track measurements)
One question, are you running Radial or Cross-ply tyres?
Bruce. >:D
Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) link=msg=566498 date=1737159863
One question, are you running Radial or Cross-ply tyres?
Bruce. >:D
/quote]
Hm, it's very interesting with trucks, though the problem was not in rear, but in front wheels... we tried to mount the targets, but you know you need to turn the wheels in order to measure caster, and fenders were the problem.
I use coker radials 235 75 r15
Using radials calls for different specifications than what the Factory says. Those figures are for Cross-ply tyres.
The amount of Toe-in for radials is a lot less than Cross-plies. Usually at least half.
A good alignment shop should know the difference.
Bruce. >:D
Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) on January 17, 2025, 10:29:10 PMUsing radials calls for different specifications than what the Factory says. Those figures are for Cross-ply tyres.
The amount of Toe-in for radials is a lot less than Cross-plies. Usually at least half.
A good alignment shop should know the difference.
Bruce. >:D
Yes, this looks fair.
For the same wheel size, toe-in for 1980-1996 Fleetwoods should be 0.16 degrees total plus minus 0.2 degrees. If we recalculate it in distance, then the difference should be maximum 2.4mm (0.36 degrees). Mine is a bit beyond. Will fix it ASAP with guys, who have the correct equipment and hands
A/C Compressor Clutch Coil Repair and AdjustmentsAfter a bolt-on replacement of the 1953 compressor with a constant drive for a 1954 compressor with an engagement clutch, it's been a year and a half. The compressor operates flawlessly, but the clutch started to "burn out" the activation relay fuse.
Using an ohmmeter, I found that there is a short circuit in the relay coil...
However, I should really start with a different point. In 1954, Frigidaire introduced a clutch for the air conditioning compressor with a dual-disc clutch. The compressors are the same, all the same, but now you did not have to dismount the belt from the compressor during winter time (this is what Manual said in 1953), and replace it with a shorter one, driving only the generator pulley.
(https://a.d-cd.net/mXgLFUwQChCcFf2tDv6susCaGng-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/K_cgaMZ2PK8TG22E89gtnBn8jLU-1920.jpg)
Here's the clutch. Internally, it's a typical clutch. Balls serve as the locking agents within the clutch.
(https://a.d-cd.net/n5vwxkORbz3dKOuAhGBpX8GOdAI-1920.jpg)
When the pin at the center of the clutch is pressed, it disengages. When released, the clutch automatically engages.
(https://a.d-cd.net/5wrUFGnXLiQcgvV4nZ-P8g4wcUk-1920.jpg)
The trick is that you need to apply about 100-130 lb of force to disengage the clutch by pressing the pin in the center. Hence, a lever was designed for this purpose. But even with this lever, you still need to apply about 50 lb of force at the end of the lever to press the pin and disengage the clutch.
The designers selected a spring that coped well with this task. Next, a solenoid was incorporated to overcome the spring's resistance.
Below are photos of a new old stock (NOS) solenoid priced at $650 and a brief explanation of the designer's creative thought.
(https://a.d-cd.net/GCHgmNMXumpdghu-SO3Tz8zmLwQ-1920.jpg)
When 12V is supplied from the climate control unit's relay, the solenoid should eject its threaded shaft by about 5-7mm and remain in that state for as long as needed for the compressor to operate under specific conditions.
(https://a.d-cd.net/7ATWbR-vg7J7HFBhIrPANv7BEVw-1920.jpg)
Given the significant effort required to overcome the spring's stiffness, the power of the "pull-in" coil is about 300W.
(https://a.d-cd.net/bVTwBVYbQ8bnhhPjhj4N6gcQB_Q-1920.jpg)
Naturally, this setup is unsuitable for long-term operation. The solenoid would simply overheat, and the coil would short-circuit (which happened to me, but more on that later).
(https://a.d-cd.net/RrXU12_t0gPQXSLKLfCb1rqR8r4-1920.jpg)
To allow the solenoid to operate long-term without harming itself, a second coil, the "holding" coil, was introduced with a power of only 8W (the same design idea as for the starter relay).
(https://a.d-cd.net/ZUckEHnEPYraZRlm5UW2m5Mr-jY-1920.jpg)
After the shaft fully extends, the "pull-in" coil should disconnect (it should), and the 8W power of the holding coil is sufficient to magnetize the core and hold it against the spring's force.
I'm not the best physics teacher, but I tried my best to make the principle clear.
(https://a.d-cd.net/WjUt9xsjFezja7-nAAhCb0UvaFA-1920.jpg)
The repair began with disassembling and inspecting the unit. The external holding coil was OK and showed a resistance of 17.5 Ohms. The internal one was simply at zero.
(https://a.d-cd.net/enUG5AJx4E1vjyRFGgsBlPmJQc4-1920.jpg)
On this repair occasion, I bought another very convenient multimeter that automatically sets the required range and has clamps for measuring DC and AC.
(https://a.d-cd.net/nikU-jmV9qZzDsItQ8kWuQC6-gU-1920.jpg)
Old wiring
(https://a.d-cd.net/9wXVPR6-d2g-BX0ocXLwySKwXWM-1920.jpg)
Purchased new wire on spools and in the required lengths to avoid additional measurements (total for $30 on Amazon).
(https://a.d-cd.net/Z0Ol_Qt_58Lzq4DIoxHUXPIDK5U-1920.jpg)
In less than 5 minutes, I assembled a winder. First, 20m of thick wire is wound, then a layer of paper scotch tape, then 200m of thin wire on top, also sealed with paper scotch tape.
(https://a.d-cd.net/9rSl1WMTtETW6DKa408VqozKMbE-1920.jpg)
I cleaned a terminal plate with 1200-grit sandpaper that precisely disconnects the "pull-in" coil. I slightly enlarged the hole with a file so that this plate could hold more freely on the shaft, allowing some tilting. This is important for its free movement.
(https://a.d-cd.net/WBktSVgCwDlLZDIcSy60tUGce4Q-1920.jpg)
The coil is installed in the housing, wires soldered to the terminals. Copper discs must have excellent contact with the plate.
(https://a.d-cd.net/-S4bBnMi6weLCOctpsAPYO7Wvlo-1920.jpg)
For easy adjustment and assembly, I made the shaft dismountable. A nut adjusts the moment when the plate will disconnect the contacts. Everything is secured with red anaerobic sealant.
(https://a.d-cd.net/04wybTAQh0Rgwi4VOxF4X5hksfk-1920.jpg)
Next, I attach the core inside, where there is a spring with considerable force. Using calipers, I set a travel of 5-7mm. If the travel is short, the clutch fork will not have enough movement. Conversely, if the travel is set too long, even the "pull-in" coil won't have enough force to magnetize the core.
Bench tests follow. I check the travel and the disconnection moment. In the shaft's extreme "rear" position, the resistance should be about 0.6-0.7 Ohms, no more, no less. Lower resistance indicates a short circuit; higher resistance indicates contact loss between the plate and copper discs. The latter scenario is bad because the "pull-in" coil will not receive the required 12-14V, and its force will be weaker than necessary, leading to the shaft not extending fully. Consequently, the "pull-in" coil will not disconnect, overheating and short-circuiting.(https://a.d-cd.net/9199mYrL5wEcNzetuvM4r4FzsWw-1920.jpg)
I install it on the car and test the activation first with the engine off.
(https://a.d-cd.net/o2AWzizTuehFIR59uS8DZ5yh_sU-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/y9_lMhC9dI5OZa-DXrRhfNeduso-1920.jpg)
During engagement, the current is approximately 25A. At the same time, a
slow-blow fuse of 5A is used for the solenoid. In the closed working position, as expected, the current is around 1A.
(https://a.d-cd.net/vU3kgmAdce70w2Rf2F5Y_RWt-u4-1920.jpg)
Now my relay is disassemblable. If necessary, the cover can be removed, and the contacts cleaned. New relays are riveted, and I'm almost 100% sure that even the relay costing $650 absolutely needs to have its contact group drilled out and cleaned; otherwise, 650 dollars will flawlessly blow into the air.
In conclusion, here's a short video of how this solenoid works.
Today is fun. January 21, 2025
Sugar Land, TX, 60 miles from the Gulf of Mexico ;D
A man after my own heart. Couldn't resist a little power slide eh?
Bruce. >:D
Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) on January 21, 2025, 07:07:47 PMA man after my own heart. Couldn't resist a little power slide eh?
Bruce. >:D
It was what it was ))) yeah
But surprisingly it steers, stops, and accelerates very good on this mud at 32-34F
(https://a.d-cd.net/fjWIrfoHIcbsjmh1UwaPweBLaCc-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/OSE1xpPxGPTGjsx-olW-WBdG6v8-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/9sxW7HIp7ofDjirN9V5x9tvITcQ-1920.jpg)
Stopped in minor drift ;)
(https://a.d-cd.net/DB6WctRKjkfzOFqlL2zXdH_aHJ4-1920.jpg)
First path on the snow
(https://a.d-cd.net/6G2AxyMdQbO4kHSR7VHZnlwDxUo-1920.jpg)
Exhaust through the bumper looks especially beautiful in winter
It's a GLORIUS look you've captured... the brilliant perfection of your ebony masterpiece against a snowy, winter suburban setting. Certainly could have been a perfect image for marketing seven decades ago.
Fortunately, the streets had no salt during the drive...
Quote from: Roger Zimmermann on January 22, 2025, 08:31:13 AMFortunately, the streets had no salt during the drive...
We are good: they used some salt on highways, but not in residential area
!One of those pictures would look good in the 2026 CLC calendar.
Quote from: kudims on January 21, 2025, 05:15:54 PMToday is fun. January 21, 2025
Sugar Land, TX, 60 miles from the Gulf of Mexico ;D
Great, I've driven through Sugarland a number of times but always had to have the AC on in the car because it was hot! I must admit it's hard for me to imagine the place covered in snow! Great video of a beautiful car.
Beautiful car. One of my favorite Cadillacs of all time, a '53 Fleetwood. Clay/Lexi
Quote from: PHIL WHYTE CLC 14192 on January 22, 2025, 05:26:14 PMGreat, I've driven through Sugarland a number of times but always had to have the AC on in the car because it was hot! I must admit it's hard for me to imagine the place covered in snow! Great video of a beautiful car.
Today, just a 2-nd day after the snow storm, and A/C in my Escalade "on duty" again!
Air Conditioner: Factory vs. Dealer
A Rather Specific Topic — and possibly not all that interesting to the broader subset of my already narrow readership.
What's this about? Observed differences in factory vs. non-factory A/C installations for the 1953 model year.
According to the GM Build Sheet, my car spent a full week at the factory. Typically, a car would ship out to the customer no later than the day after its body and chassis reached the final assembly line. My guess is the Cadillac was held for off-line A/C installation. If that's correct, then the details of that process might have varied from one vehicle to another.
(https://a.d-cd.net/l0caPuF5Q5jWd8xDcpwmz3kDrxY-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/2suiyCJYFyIYKuB6N1WDzw9b8U8-1920.jpg)
Below, using photos from various cars, we'll look at some differences between factory-installed air conditioners and those installed outside the factory (e.g., at a dealer or a specialized shop).
1. Air Intakes
(https://a.d-cd.net/-EK0YFhREVg-WX-4-laPq2QstiE-1920.jpg)
Factory: All Fisher Body shells slated for A/C had those "ears" at the rear window line right from the start.
(https://a.d-cd.net/SOcWhxS33BTejd177v061sVDO8I-1920.jpg)
Here's how they looked.
(https://a.d-cd.net/uGpGKNaTJfL0abgAABjdYTh4lOQ-1920.jpg)
Dealer: If A/C was installed at the customer's request at a dealership, no openings were cut into the body. Air intake was strictly recirculated cabin air. No switch between cabin/outside air intake.
2. Roof Vents and Ducting
(https://a.d-cd.net/1sotjp9gavfgck3Is0hSxks0Gt8-1920.jpg)
Dealer: Cold air entered the cabin through vents on the rear package shelf—likely unpleasant for those hit by a blast of cold air to the back of the head. But routing lines to the overhead area wasn't part of the dealer's job. However, I saw several factory installed A/Cs for 1953 with no roof ducts... But in any case dealer would never make anything with the headliner...
(https://a.d-cd.net/RcqMqW_2EH7jQyx2bGAQYnKX0MI-1920.jpg)
Factory: Cold air travels up to the headliner via transparent ducts (this photo shows condensation on the duct). On the left is a switch to choose outside air or cabin recirculation.
(https://a.d-cd.net/IskIWnv1aWyXt1h0A97f-A0vbEQ-1920.jpg)
Dealer: The headliner is the standard type with no ceiling vents.
(https://a.d-cd.net/wxjbOWmW2HUUbd1ZMHMaYLyhuJI-1920.jpg)
Factory: There are four vents in the headliner, one above each door, providing cold airflow from overhead.
(https://a.d-cd.net/Ex2asFH6W-fC3VSIU5aNcD0g8zg-1920.jpg)
Factory: Nevertheless, some cars with "factory" A/C lacked the overhead ducts; cold air distribution was effectively the same as a dealer-installed system.
3. Under-Car Routing
(https://a.d-cd.net/vzuTrhL-l7jPMfOYU-oRSK_sU3E-1920.jpg)
Factory: There's a filter/dryer on the high-pressure line.
(https://a.d-cd.net/WlyHBpni-N-TUG2Czqy-s8Z2mX0-1920.jpg)
Dealer: The filter is relocated, and in its place is just a piece of tubing. The bracket holding the lines appears custom-made.
4. Control Unit
(https://a.d-cd.net/ZmEoKtFTKXBu-mdFHOf5Dlr21Os-1920.jpg)
Dealer: The A/C control blocks for factory vs. non-factory installs are essentially the same.
(https://a.d-cd.net/6tsZughGKaeuGIs6ZKBCquKOeQA-1920.jpg)
Factory: Identical-style blocks were used through 1956.
5. Radiator "Mask," Horns, and Supports
(https://a.d-cd.net/rCKNbA4mNd75BwTQMN8AD0OZTjU-1920.jpg)
No A/C: The horns are mounted low, attached to the radiator opening.
(https://a.d-cd.net/VIrkMi9vbS6IqIZPEcO44Cj107U-1920.jpg)
Dealer: The horns had to be relocated to fit the condenser.
(https://a.d-cd.net/5x89w3yMf54CR6zGrl9jaMOnrkY-1920.jpg)
Dealer: Horns are spaced out differently to accommodate the condenser.
(https://a.d-cd.net/sEPNwybJ-5dqmlyCyRAxmL0gtss-1920.jpg)
Factory: Horns were positioned at the upper radiator bar - not to interfere with the condenser.
(https://a.d-cd.net/HYvcunGOxuT4ElWaEYXYj3igntY-1920.jpg)
Dealer: To install the condenser, the vertical brace of the center support is cut. Someone even added (maybe much later) an auxiliary fan for the condenser.
(https://a.d-cd.net/9GE0SzFTovv1MtpYdB35U_KqGpA-1920.jpg)
Factory, No A/C: The central strip has a reinforcement rib.
(https://a.d-cd.net/aJkl_M29mvzFGLO658qJk6dhjo4-1920.jpg)
Factory: The vertical support is trimmed slightly differently than the dealer's version, but for the same reason—to fit the condenser.
6. Different Compressor
(https://a.d-cd.net/7Y5qF-yglbkytyy_-hn_cH4sOrk-1920.jpg)
Factory: Compressor model A1, with the high-pressure port at the rear face and the low-pressure port on the right side.
(https://a.d-cd.net/9OQi6ctOWHIa87VOoz6S1Y0NY5c-1920.jpg)
Dealer: Appears this car originally had a different, newer compressor. As a result, the lines for the ports differ completely from the A1. We can't rule out a later replacement compressor, but I suspect that if someone was adding A/C in, say, 1956–57 (or later), they wouldn't bother installing the huge, lower-efficiency 1953–54 compressor.
(https://a.d-cd.net/XU3f8u7wqjRJBk_6FaLRO2ZAAfs-1920.jpg)
Dealer: Closer look at the port arrangement.
(https://a.d-cd.net/PIUnziBTXS9Zedzajo1q7fsm8bs-1920.jpg)
Dealer: The sight glass and filter/dryer are on the right fender splash shield.
(https://a.d-cd.net/OOOmeIAsDB0OJLenozHSlzYeHPQ-1920.jpg)
Factory: No under-hood filter; it's located down on the frame. The sight glass and bypass solenoid are in the engine bay.
7. Carburetor with Load Compensation
(https://a.d-cd.net/_AlJqaf7WslKGVh3q81YAzhhq1g-1920.jpg)
Dealer: A Rochester carb with no built-in load compensator to boost idle speed under A/C load. That's another clue that this A/C was added off the assembly line. Next photo explains why.
(https://a.d-cd.net/LHMQWB-dSXLLwRtvKjoWeVhAuIw-1920.jpg)
Factory: A Carter carb with an electro-vacuum load compensation system. When the A/C is switched on, it energizes a vacuum-solenoid valve (mounted on the carb). Vacuum then pulls on a diaphragm, moving that linkage (pictured) to raise idle speed. In 1953–54, only Carter carbs had this feature, so every Cadillac with factory-installed A/C in those years came with a Carter carb.
Those are the main differences I've noticed.
(https://a.d-cd.net/MGrR9s9m9y4vanKt7xhTXV2-fn0-1920.jpg)
VIN: 5360. The "53" stands for 1953, "60" for Series 60, then the production sequence number—80k+ out of roughly 100k total units. Likely, it had dealer-installed air conditioning, not from the earliest portion of the model run, so presumably not a factory job.
Thanks for reading! If anyone sees other telltale differences or has their own knowledge regarding these first-in-history automotive air-conditioning units and how they were installed, please share!
And, btw, I read 1950-53 Authenticity Manual, and I can notice several things that are not correct there, not only related to A/C :P
Here is the link to the 53 data book. On page 190 of the .pdf file (3 or 4 books combined into the file) it discusses the A/C option, function and content.
https://www.gm.com/content/dam/company/no_search/heritage-archive-docs/vehicle-information-kits/cadillac/1953_Cadillac_Eldorado_VVI.pdf
Quote from: David King (kz78hy) on January 24, 2025, 11:13:14 AMHere is the link to the 53 data book. On page 190 of the .pdf file (3 or 4 books combined into the file) it discusses the A/C option, function and content.
https://www.gm.com/content/dam/company/no_search/heritage-archive-docs/vehicle-information-kits/cadillac/1953_Cadillac_Eldorado_VVI.pdf
Yes, I have this document, although I have another technical manual, which is 100% related to 1953 air conditioners.
(https://a.d-cd.net/QBp9_3j--ElzibXBr2_8vOZifEI-1920.jpg)
One of the pages from 100+ page manual
Installation of a/c looks very similar to my '56 model,and you've done incredibly wonderful work ... the ceiling vents are identical. For those who have never experienced these systems, believe me, they are memorable. Having frigid air blowing on the left side of your face as you drive and having condensate drip on your neck is memorable... additionally, on particularly hot, humid days, side windows fog up. When I was using my '56 to commute 90 miles a day, I used a towel over my shoulder to keep dry and warm. These systems had sufficient capacity to cool down a hot car in a very few minutes.
The image in the "accessories" appears to show the same content as the assembly plant build. At least routings and things like the dryer are shown.
Let me share some photos and statistics regarding the trip "Montana - Texas".
2200 miles in 4 days on a 1953 Cadillac. Who did the same or similar trip in recent time / past - please share memories and photos.
(https://a.d-cd.net/EV0rcolJqv_HSVvp5-V3PKN2PRQ-1920.jpg)
Day 1: Hamilton - Dubois through Yellowsone National Park
(https://a.d-cd.net/yolIA5dDbOIFNEfb0QsGsNvgcrU-1920.jpg)
First "technical stop" for brief inspection after 60 miles from Hamilton. Somewhere in Wyoming.
(https://a.d-cd.net/zd_IJSV8kB0np6Hzlmzozd2xj7s-1920.jpg)
In Yellowstone
(https://a.d-cd.net/w2ye7C7EmsGbeniiZrSvPAqtADc-1920.jpg)
We spent there several hours. Somewhere near Grand Geyser
(https://a.d-cd.net/O14zDTTVFa-cqy8t9Df5Y7cNZKQ-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/dRV7ljfMY49M-hkNubvFvfhtguM-1920.jpg)
But we had to drive and find a place to "stop for the night".
(https://a.d-cd.net/E_yGhZ1BNSfS4Sdo22Wr5ZoxSR0-1920.jpg)
Traffic was really heavy
(https://a.d-cd.net/BBI6ZF9YKA1r3ZR7NBn1NKHSIxA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/a2cjP3j1a5OcdV3md-pKl5NWoxM-1920.jpg)
Snow in June
(https://a.d-cd.net/eemrgrQ20yZ9ffeNq29pBuV3h0Y-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/cfKcmFPfOtefrhAni9SI8167a4g-1920.jpg)
We went through the very heavy rain with hail high in the mountains, and now we are driving down the hill to Dubois...
(https://a.d-cd.net/u3jJC85HQCMAi2XFnbNTYgUkl_s-1920.jpg)
Super 8 in Dubois. Nice place
(https://a.d-cd.net/JMC-9DYlnJNNCFer8mVVAhHD9Xo-1920.jpg)
Next morning
(https://a.d-cd.net/B2HMsuXqFYoF4aFFJE_NyR8dsac-1920.jpg)
"Breakfast in America"
Day Summary: We covered 460 miles (740 km).
Here's the breakdown by refueling stops:
Start with a full tank — Odometer: 35580
35732: 10 gallons to full (always filled to the brim) — 15.2 MPG
35879: 13 gallons — 11.3 MPG (thin air and long climbs)
36040: 12.95 gallons — 12.4 MPG (same mountain terrain).
Daily Total: 460 miles at an average of 12.8 MPG.
Elevation gain: from 3000 ft in Montana to 8100 ft in Wyoming and up to 8450 ft in Yellowstone, followed by a descent to Dubois (6850 ft). Pretty result good considering high altitude and a 71 year-old carb.
Entirely forgot about the "favorite stations" feature... so nice. I wonder when the vacuum tube, two component tuner and audio amplifier/ power supply system gave way to a single integrated transistorize unit.
Day 2: Dubois - Colorado Springs
On the second day we understood that the car can move pretty fast without issues. So, I tried to cruise at 60-65. This was the optimum speed in terms of fuel economy, and I was more or less confident that at this speed no hose will blow-up accidentally...
(https://a.d-cd.net/wJSuqrXbgxwaW7C_-fXbpME8rOE-1920.jpg)
Day 2 map: 500 miles
(https://a.d-cd.net/QzOh2HJbMX4lOUMmYLhdAuwuS1k-1920.jpg)
Some beautiful views of Wyoming
(https://a.d-cd.net/hDhDUvx2d9_witZDhRP0jQJ77Ro-1920.jpg)
... and Colorado
(https://a.d-cd.net/1EA8xnV9AabAR0ejYMclkhQua0I-1920.jpg)
Brief stop at ACE store. Edsel Corsair 1959
(https://a.d-cd.net/LvpxwMn-EmGkBIk55rKTz7bUSFE-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/miBLEWt6Pw8YhYdn9Y8SKw3uUfc-1920.jpg)
Then we continue our trip
(https://a.d-cd.net/1jj4qFkZzoRp4hgLtjEklWUPhN0-1920.jpg)
Colorado
(https://a.d-cd.net/uPly0vbenvMFqfP1hy_BCVeTJpg-1920.jpg)
Approaching Denver... There was a car accident and a very heavy traffic. Our Caddy had a bit late ignition, and was starting to heat-up in slow move with 90+ F outside. So, we stopped for 40 minutes until it became clear on the highway
(https://a.d-cd.net/QQJh8PE_fHIPYUBx52hwDKjObmA-1920.jpg)
Colorado Springs
(https://a.d-cd.net/dgQ0QL9T6gY26ASMq6U7wjd229g-1920.jpg)
Parked near the hotel
Day 2 statistics:
Odometer reading at start 36040
Refuelings:
36247 — 14.6 gal (14.2 MPG)
36440 — 14.12 gal (13.7 MPG)
36552 — 9.2 gal (12.17 MPG) (Colorado Springs)
Total day 2: 512 miles, average economy: 13.5 MPG
Day 3 on the way from Montana to Texas
(https://a.d-cd.net/C8ttpKLdjrzxXcflCaM2M8_7yK4-1920.jpg)
Here is the day 3 plan - the same ~500 miles.
(https://a.d-cd.net/VItv0TKriQlQ5OfxWdfg-IEbRcY-1920.jpg)
The road was mostly flat and boring, with some mountain passes
(https://a.d-cd.net/Vio7rNPxn0HxSHB7ON8lNfeO11k-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/MWOxijVWw5SzlZH2-DcVUZ7IOb4-1920.jpg)
But the views are still beautiful
(https://a.d-cd.net/a-eB24BwT5FUqENKiuDN7xnzqIY-1920.jpg)
I already posted this photo from Amarillo. This is late afternoon day 3
(https://a.d-cd.net/lzYSvR39hGPDeN0ImKTQ70qySoc-1920.jpg)
And we finally checked-in Super8 at Childress (150 miles to the South from Amarillo)
Day 3 statistics:
36552 — odometer at start
Refuelings:
36778 — 16.3 gal (13.9 MPG)
36945 — 13.6 gal (12.3 MPG)
37091 — 11.5 gal (12.7 MPG)
Day 3 distance covered: 539 miles, average day 3 economy: 13 MPG
(https://a.d-cd.net/7ht6Jdr4FxUob6qHD411JeGGZP0-1920.jpg)
Main street at Childress
(https://a.d-cd.net/0FbdtF81A7s_KYXrLPMpzkp0-cA-1920.jpg)
Hotel parking in the morning
(https://a.d-cd.net/VUEacpE9cuo2fc3eTSob8D-Ldp4-1920.jpg)
Day 4 map
Actually, there was nothing to make photos about. The weather was rainy, we wanted to come home before the night, and that's the reason why I was just pushing the accelerator, and my son was following the navigator...
(https://a.d-cd.net/sfl2Mfs1RQ9dxVboKW4ucL49E6o-1920.jpg)
The mission was comleted. We are at home in Sugar Land.
(https://a.d-cd.net/AcGEM4wAnmz1gLP7eQfxx8kbNQE-1920.jpg)
The old one meets the new one
Day 4 staistics:
37091 — odometer at start
Refuelings:
37223 — 10.2 gal (12.9 MPG)
37407 — 14.59 gal (12.6 MPG)
37606 — 14 gal (14.2 MPG) — came home
Total distance covered: 2026 miles (per odometer), 154.1 gal. Average economy 13.14 MPG
Oil consumption: 0. Level on the dipstick remain unchanged
Dmitry,
Your thread on this '53 Fleetwood is one of the best I've seen on the board.
Your "how to " discussions on the mechanicals as well as the cosmetics were very informative.
The quality of, and fit and finish of your work and great photography is exceptional.
Thank you .
Quote from: Ralph Messina CLC 4937 on January 31, 2025, 01:57:30 PMDmitry,
Your thread on this '53 Fleetwood is one of the best I've seen on the board.
Your "how to " discussions on the mechanicals as well as the cosmetics were very informative.
The quality of, and fit and finish of your work and great photography is exceptional.
Thank you .
Yes, I agree. It was indeed a pleasure reading your posts on this project. As I have a background in Forensic Science, I was also a trained photographer; so the quality of your photography was duly noted and appreciated. Thankyou for your posts. Clay/Lexi
Quote from: Lexi on January 31, 2025, 05:40:52 PMYes, I agree. It was indeed a pleasure reading your posts on this project. As I have a background in Forensic Science, I was also a trained photographer; so the quality of your photography was duly noted and appreciated. Thankyou for your posts. Clay/Lexi
Thank you, and this is not the end. Many things are going on with the car, even more "to-do s" on the list
Re-chroming: Parts and Shop Survey
Based on the title, you can guess the story's about money...
Specifically, money flowing from my pocket into the pockets of some hopefully very skilled people. All that remains is to choose the right ones.
Houston is a fascinating place when it comes to classic car services. A few factors come into play—feel free to assign them your own priority:
1. A fair number of well-funded collectors and enthusiasts
2. Relatively affordable electricity and labor
3. Moderately lenient environmental regulations—essentially, pay an environmental fee and open up a plating shop
As a result, I've counted six chrome shops just within Houston city limits. If you include the suburbs, there are probably ten or so. And even though the factor (1) does hold, it's still "overkill" for a relatively small local market. Consequently, these shops rely on parts shipped in from all over the US—and sometimes from Europe as well. Private individuals like me are a minority; most customers are restoration shops. This also affects the workflow, since the final owner of a classic or hot rod rarely deals directly with the plater. Some owners don't even know where their chrome parts got plated in the first place.
But I'm... a bit different. Here's a short photo story about how I drove 135 miles around Houston in one day and what I learned.
The Parts
(https://a.d-cd.net/3__p1NjmUxQ-LGkqgtk0vbJW4a4-1920.jpg)
First: the rear bumper, which has survived at least two hits. One of those accidents happened in January 1969—there's a pencil note on the back side of the bumper documenting it. I removed six bolts, and my son helped me pull the bumper off.
(https://a.d-cd.net/ix7-2xzT5-CjC17DadHeAEAOJfE-1920.jpg)
Left exhaust pipe. After half a year in use, there's not even a trace of soot—reminder that the engine's never been apart for a rebuild.
(https://a.d-cd.net/m1dr_XoPxV_I1D4UgS4hYey8mnc-1920.jpg)
Starting to disassemble the bumper.
(https://a.d-cd.net/gT8JXigVvktX2mH9xWdRd_BjQwY-1920.jpg)
The "Dagmars" removed. At the factory, this bumper was welded together from three pieces; the weld seams are hidden by these large bullet-shaped pieces.
(https://a.d-cd.net/8DyzromFIWvui3r01wseXr5koVk-1920.jpg)
On either side of the bumper are extension pieces.
(https://a.d-cd.net/ula_OJTmJ01l2HMcM4xcjesdzyM-1920.jpg)
A whole lot of 5/16"-diameter bolts—plenty of hardware!
(https://a.d-cd.net/W18e4xCWvWpDw22H9N6frlNYXyg-1920.jpg)
The inside of a Dagmar (or "buffer"). The bullet tip is an extra piece bolted on with a massive fastener deep inside.
(https://a.d-cd.net/C068QesTJPWh4YdfahhFiroMKZM-1920.jpg)
Loaded everything into the Escalade ESV, folding down not just the third row, but also the second row. Next to it are my stainless-steel rocker trims that need straightening and polishing.
(https://a.d-cd.net/DwguYM19LcxdVPMY9JjJCnjV19s-1920.jpg)
One of the boxes contains the Dagmars.
In truth, driving around without making any calls or prep would've been irresponsible, so I did email several shops in December. Only a couple replied. I sent detailed photos of all the parts and their issues, seeking accurate quotes. The initial estimates ranged from $2,000 to $3,000 for the entire bumper assembly, plus $800 for the headlight bezels, and $1,600 for both rocker trims (they're 5" wide and about 6.5 feet long).
Stop 1: Reds Parts Attic
(https://a.d-cd.net/p428Qwl9rSxl3Pb-uyZabyBohXE-1920.jpg)
My route and appointment times were planned to maximize efficiency and minimize mileage.
(https://a.d-cd.net/iXB9IKYYEBvLTIbfbR8u-46qSy8-1920.jpg)
Google Maps shows the location as a residential home—definitely not a typical plating facility. But around here it's normal to run a small business on your own property, provided the neighbors aren't upset about "environmental" matters.
(https://a.d-cd.net/rR6lvx1_vIs0tVDbQDDwfIr3bvI-1920.jpg)
I had a friendly chat with Joe, the owner. He recalculated his quote—upward—to $4,600.
(https://a.d-cd.net/CE21_qlOjH191gMDbGsD5z_6dN8-1920.jpg)
I didn't mention to Joe that while he promises "show-quality" chrome, the piece he was showing me had visible scratches from poor prep work, and the shape wasn't perfectly straight.
(https://a.d-cd.net/42mU2ymVaUFUB5mB_GH9DrkeJqA-1920.jpg)
Joe buffing a bumper with polishing compound right before handing it off to a customer.
(https://a.d-cd.net/R7pv3QKOjJDEhwMdBa-dpB6qo-g-1920.jpg)
Another freshly plated piece that's tricky to prep. The final result is okay but not perfect.
Nevertheless, as I left Joe's place, I was in a fairly good mood. He's about 40, well-kept, pleasant to talk to, and showed me quite a bit of his operation.
Stop 2: Custom Chrome Polish
(https://a.d-cd.net/kKu7xAB0KctfTqPARRukGwq7b9g-1920.jpg)
Next destination.
(https://a.d-cd.net/ix4i4dwfVo9jwkj05swT-oYmgTs-1920.jpg)
Based on Street View, the neighborhood looked a bit "iffy"—kind of like a run-down urban residential area, though still with paved roads, drainage, and relatively clean surroundings.
Behind the facade is a huge single-story warehouse, maybe a few hundred feet long.
(https://a.d-cd.net/D_5M_p1Thao1EGqPBHMuihI9vSI-1920.jpg)
A Mexican-American lady (that's her hand in the photo) greeted me. I asked to see some of their work. The quality was immediately far better than what I saw at Joe's.
(https://a.d-cd.net/7-tu9yDtipUYzaWm26g7rfcvZvo-1920.jpg)
A bumper from a Bel Air. The quality is impressive.
(https://a.d-cd.net/bVe0iaU-Pbsdw4f5zTOxAJg5TJg-1920.jpg)
A stainless-steel piece after polishing. They stamp their mark on the back for identification.
(https://a.d-cd.net/9Oh-FljGcnD_ey2J228RgUjdTxg-1920.jpg)
Parts ready for shipment. They have dozens of shelves like this.
(https://a.d-cd.net/0uQr2RgCF6Vq3BYCOfQ35Oo9vUc-1920.jpg)
Front side of the polished stainless trim.
(https://a.d-cd.net/KlyG1yWpwC_ibDR5c97Ql_I7Vug-1920.jpg)
They gave me a brief tour of the shop floor, which ordinarily requires PPE and respirators—lots of acid vats.
(https://a.d-cd.net/W7cmTtkrKPUx7W-6ZxF8badf0Dc-1920.jpg)
A copper-plating tank. Copper and lead solder serve as filler.
(https://a.d-cd.net/QE_rwa1PFYlUPq7vHaeAYAUsaos-1920.jpg)
A part post-nickel stage, ready for the final chrome dip.
(https://a.d-cd.net/DjnVjqWoeXs_7PYmqyEvPeru_rE-1920.jpg)
Chrome bath.
Price-wise, they quoted $2,950 for the bumper assembly, $750 for the headlight rings, $950 for the stainless trim, plus $175 for miscellaneous odds and ends—$4,825 total. I left with a good impression.
Stop 3: Atlas Chrome Polish (central Houston)
(https://a.d-cd.net/XngENg6Makv4y2JmhQUf3N0fXTY-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/ZjqS7dYCMuNiBj5UUL3vsDiBCoE-1920.jpg)
Not the most glamorous exterior, but that's not always telling.
The owner is an Indian gentleman named Sean Savad. He spent a while examining the bumper and other parts, then brought in an older colleague for a second opinion. They talked about cutting off the internal brackets to straighten the bumper, then welding them back (which is fairly standard). After half an hour of deliberation, he quoted me:
$2,500 for the headlight bezels
$1,700 for the bumper add-ons (Dagmars, etc.)
$3,000–$5,000 for the bumper itself.
They refused to work on my wide stainless trim, calling it "too complicated."
A few photos of their work:
(https://a.d-cd.net/hc9D1q7zX5cEELUioKGFdvVFWmQ-1920.jpg)
A cast-alloy (POT metal) piece in the prep stage. The white areas are lead filler, the red is copper. There'll be more rounds of filling and sanding.
(https://a.d-cd.net/s9VXIDSFauInVMqRAQ01i7kpO6M-1920.jpg)
A stainless trim piece after polishing—pretty good, though my parts are five times wider.
(https://a.d-cd.net/46CqGYquAtqEKsKz2b3O8dqa9rs-1920.jpg)
Some miscellaneous bits. Sean and myself in the reflection
Stop 4: Speed & Sport Chrome Plating
They market themselves as "Nation No.1," claiming no one can beat them.
(https://a.d-cd.net/DY7RI6ExpVFGy3IsA6vo61UclQ0-1920.jpg)
Here's the route and distance. They're in southeast Houston near the freight harbour.
(https://a.d-cd.net/AVcU0_W8SsM__PWBg5kyO0dYGZA-1920.jpg)
Street View makes the workshop look decent. All seems fine.
(https://a.d-cd.net/vFQ_1FdJyhlc54LKS9xybid1UbE-1920.jpg)
Inside, it's stylish—and they definitely carry themselves like they're #1.
I arrived around 1 p.m., but the owner (who handles all estimates) wasn't there yet. He only comes in on Fridays from 2:00 to 4:00 p.m. to do quotes. I knew this in advance but showed up early anyway (I left home at 9 a.m.).
I debated leaving, but decided to wait an hour. The question: where and how to wait?
Meanwhile, Another Shop Emerges
I knew of one more place nearby but could never reach them by phone (the line seemed disconnected).
(https://a.d-cd.net/_KIF0YlDr7uagInMtsTZzhz1IPE-1920.jpg)
A family-run operation Auto Chrome Plating, located just one block from Speed & Sport Chrome Plating. Off I go.
(https://a.d-cd.net/tyqfow67oJ2e-PRvMJaEgc7nJvk-1920.jpg)
On Street View, it looks very run-down, like it hasn't seen repairs in decades.
I entered, initially thinking the door was locked—it was just stuck. Dimly lit interior with heavy blinds shut tight (think gangster-movie aesthetic). Facing the door was a large leather couch with an elderly man of 80+ dozing. He perked up as I walked in.
"Are you open?" I asked. "Yes, yes," he replied, "I'll get my son." The "son," about 50 and a younger version of the father, came out to check my parts.
He and his father examined the bumper and the other items, conversing in Spanish. The son asked clarifying questions, then crunched numbers on a notepad:
$1,910 for the bumper and its components
$635 for the pot-metal items (headlight bezels, etc.) I had in my box
$55–$60 per foot for the stainless trim—$960 total for both pieces.
That's $3,505 altogether.
(https://a.d-cd.net/rFscj7Qq0gSrwJp1Wz1mSM_f-rs-1920.jpg)
A pot-metal part after plating.
Then we got talking about the local chrome business scene. They explained:
"Our family has run this place since 1971, when we moved here from California. Dad (82 years old) is the best bumper guy around. He used to specialize in straightening bumpers and still does. Many other plating shops bring us their bumpers for straightening—or they go to one of his former apprentices who split off and opened his own place."
It turns out the owner of Custom Chrome Polish (from stop #2) used to work here before starting his own shop. He still comes back for bumper and trim straightening.
Joe (Stop #1) is a unique character. He married the daughter of a plating-shop owner. The father-in-law got older, the business fell into disarray, employees started doing side jobs, taking whatever wasn't nailed down. Eventually Joe sold off all the equipment but kept advertising as though everything's still operational. He subcontracts all the work, so there's no true "show-quality" result (as I suspected). Joe's simply a middleman, shipping in and out across the country.
As for Speed & Sport Chrome Plating, the current owner bought the business in 1989 from the same person who started it with "82-year-old Dad" in 1971. They split at some point, each going their own way. When I asked why their phone number doesn't work, they said it was flooded with spam calls, so they shut it off, never updated it publicly, and now rely on direct, private contact info.
All this clarified a lot for me. These other shops charge such high bumper prices because they can't do metal-straightening themselves—they farm it out, incurring extra costs. Plus, most of them have staff overhead and building leases. This family, however, owns everything, so overhead is minimal.
They further estimated that Speed & Sport Chrome Plating would charge about $6,500 for my parts.
Finally Back to Speed & Sport Chrome
The "right guy" has arrived. The conversation started off in a rather off-putting way:
Me: "I've brought some parts for an estimate."
Owner: "If you're looking for cheap, not here—we're No.1. Read our reviews."
Me: "Fantastic to meet the best in the business. Now let's check out my parts."
"Okay, bring 'em inside."
I suggested maybe he could step outside since the parts are huge and heavy, and my car is literally by the door. He looked at me like I'd asked him to tap-dance on the table. "We're No.1 over the Nation," he says, "and I never go outside to look at parts. We do estimates right here under this lamp."
I nearly left right then, politely. But I took a breath and said, "Look, I understand, but there's a lot of big, heavy stuff, and the car is right here." Muttering, he begrudgingly stepped out for a glance.
(https://a.d-cd.net/3zNZMmMaxYlqqCdiUSqON7F3sHg-1920.jpg)
He quoted $6,250. The family-run shop had guessed $6,500, so they were off by 4%.
The Day's Conclusion
(https://a.d-cd.net/ftpZwHtE7jQ0rFHJ_DvZmh6CYMs-1920.jpg)
I ended up driving 135 miles total, all within the Houston loop.
(https://a.d-cd.net/lpm6cvL8MgsLilR0-W9L0rhXF9M-1920.jpg)
Just in case, here are contacts for those I wouldn't recommend. The bottom number is the owner at Atlas Chrome; the top is "No.1 Over the Nation." The middle is Joe.
That's the story from a meticulous customer—long and maybe tedious in places, but I feel it lays out how things stand.
Stay tuned for more updates.
P.S. Every shop except for the "family" Mexican place quoted turn-around times of 4–6 weeks. Speed & Sport said 4 weeks will be fair estimate; the family-owned shop (Auto Chrome Plating) said 2 weeks, because they do everything in place, no need to subcontract someone else.
Interesting story! It seems that the plater's world is very small...
Underwood DeLuxe Leader 1953 & Owner's Identification Card
The Cadillac dealer would print what they called an Owner's Identification Card for the car's owner and place it in a special pouch in front of the radiator. These cards were made of cardstock, with text typed on a regular typewriter, then covered by a clear plastic overlay for protection.
Naturally, the original card bearing the first owner's name—Roberta Sayer—faded and blurred long ago. I wanted to recreate it. You can still buy blank versions of these cards, but handwriting the info wouldn't look right (laser printing is even worse). So I decided to track down an Underwood typewriter, preferably from before 1953.
Asking around among friends (and friends of friends) didn't turn up anything, so eBay came to the rescue. I found about a dozen machines from 1950–1953, inspected them closely (by photo, of course), and picked the least worn example, which happened to be a 1953 model. Cost me $55 plus $18 shipping. I also bought a new two-color ribbon on Amazon for $3.
(https://a.d-cd.net/Uqjc6sEoQ_aTucdZO2G2Oe9z1GE-1920.jpg)
The typewriter was coated in years of dust. I blew it off with compressed air, then used isopropyl alcohol to clean the surfaces and de-grease the rollers. With a toothbrush dipped in the same isopropyl, I scrubbed the typebars. A few drops of WD-40 on all the pivot points, and the machine became fully functional again.
(https://a.d-cd.net/ay4evCzocCJFHGgZKIGpieLqPkE-1920.jpg)
Under the "hood."
(https://a.d-cd.net/Tv6eohs7boElFJUzY6mm7Gi2PE4-1920.jpg)
First lines typed after who knows how many years in barn storage.
(https://a.d-cd.net/GDzgxXaXIQheCaTYnax46yW9Tlg-1920.jpg)
I took the original dealer card (from which the info on the Owner's Identification Card was copied) for practice. Interestingly, the digit "1" was typed using the lowercase "l" instead of a capital "I," and there's no exclamation mark. To make one, you type a dot, backspace, then type a single quote.
(https://a.d-cd.net/Pk7kpGhOonwfESQRzHLO1cXIR3I-1920.jpg)
All set. Time to install it.
(https://a.d-cd.net/0AOl6KwuXaPaZ4AF8gkNezpd3ms-1920.jpg)
Pulling out the placeholder.
(https://a.d-cd.net/N9PPvrxIeiz_ZejxugVDTH03XUM-1920.jpg)
Now the card takes its rightful place. Historical accuracy restored.
(https://a.d-cd.net/BJzS14nwSlFWmO4CZN3GMMLN6Gc-1920.jpg)
Signing "for Roberta" on the side seemed unnecessary.
P.S. If someone wants to have the correct typing of the O.I.C - don't hesitate to reach me. I will be happy to help
Power steering pressure hoses
Why do power steering hoses need this intermediate connector? From a straightforward standpoint, it seems simpler and more reliable to have a single hose with as few fittings as possible. However, that connector houses flow restrictors, which help reduce cavitation in both the high-pressure and low-pressure lines—keeping operating noise to a minimum. If you try using hoses without these inserts, you'll quickly understand what I mean.
(https://a.d-cd.net/MSITvniS_WQIo06-OydYUhJf-I0-1920.jpg)
This is the high pressure hose for 1952-53 models
(https://a.d-cd.net/CpL-nL3QhboI6FuKiYjVGKLOJlU-1920.jpg)
And here is the flow restrictor
(https://a.d-cd.net/f4j76rkufYOhludP4YnZtio5-kY-1920.jpg)
Steering gear fitting
(https://a.d-cd.net/4HGOWGV8a8EDNp3QXqUEY5IpeIU-1920.jpg)
You will definitely want to put this steel part in the rubber sleeve
(https://a.d-cd.net/xoCzJf-CYAKjMWatjXst3--O9Uc-1920.jpg)
Intermediate connector from the old hose
I hope that in ~2 weeks I will come back with new posts regarding chrome plating. Meanwhile, here is a photo from one of the 5 car shows that we have participated in 2024.
Sugar Land Town Square - we were put in the center of the center
(https://a.d-cd.net/CzulkCLM379H29zU_aIZFrEn-gc-1920.jpg)
Also, if someone needs it - send me a message. These are the paint codes of all US cars
(https://a.d-cd.net/e6ILq8IhIsZ6j8QtqxTnuOFctgo-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/kRjsLnwufitmJ974B3i8YNoZwHw-1920.jpg)
On the left - factory code, on the right - PPG code
(https://a.d-cd.net/Tp0LtR3yDDvbUJfjQTbkOGjpnPU-1920.jpg)
Partial re-chroming
February flew by in a blur of home projects, but the new car show season is just around the corner. The first event I'd planned to attend is next Saturday, March 22—and the car is still in pieces. That's not good.
By way of reminder, in my last post I toured various shops specializing in re-chroming and restoration work.
In early February, I brought the first batch of parts to my Auto-Chrome Plating "dream team," then followed up with another batch soon after. Meanwhile, I turned my attention to the car. After all, you can't simply reattach everything fresh from plating without a bit of prep.
(https://a.d-cd.net/qPqpUoxUm1Uw1XlRgDqu4VZcvts-1920.jpg)
I hardly needed some welding. As I left my 220-volt Mig welder in Russia, I shopped for the new one tuned for 120V of input
(https://a.d-cd.net/_cIp94egoymRn0cw9ldQFKw6B_E-1920.jpg)
The device came with 2 options - stick welder and Mig welder. Also, you can purchase for additional $60 a Tig welder
(https://a.d-cd.net/5dRejH9TSBWRd34BCDXHgkEOTL8-1920.jpg)
Now I am fully satisfied with this guy
(https://a.d-cd.net/T7RNet2l7QYDzU1_2F7MEV83NY8-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/0ZYitqVs_oF07l6UadXIq8QW1iA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/MRUp4y9q19uqG5647JGbQ3YU5bk-1920.jpg)
This is how it works with the zinc-coated steel. You know that it's usually a pain to weld zinc-coated surface, as it boils
(https://a.d-cd.net/5v6IMpyewycSjwvHp5bWD6sPPcU-1920.jpg)
Then I started straightnening the rear slash shield, which was bended after accident on Jan 27, 1967
(https://a.d-cd.net/Mt6xQcIo7hGNzAJr0hIx76q4LfQ-1920.jpg)
First, I removed all filler and paint
(https://a.d-cd.net/NJsCNoFEZ31mwqkz_-HZ2USmKsI-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/TPRKAoM2V0x5xtMi3l08gpjK6Uc-1920.jpg)
I have fixed it as much as it was possible, and filled some deep dents with the solder
(https://a.d-cd.net/Kro81R5d_1bhkUn-_nMDGd5nmZo-1920.jpg)
Ready for filler
(https://a.d-cd.net/DX7ylKSKL88aLOEjN-L_dNKI2zY-1920.jpg)
Back side
(https://a.d-cd.net/QpC2k7wt4orPHcGYgCTEtD3DUNk-1920.jpg)
Rocker molding hangers were sandblasted, though one was deeply corroded for unknown reason. The rocker panel is in excellent shape
(https://a.d-cd.net/mYIZ4WM3AyD4yQIdvOFnA-OlX9w-1920.jpg)
The process
(https://a.d-cd.net/AxRDurTTC_XEeKv96JqbcGYjuao-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/z-VEf6Y6QFWRIxA-FmgmPsf-3UM-1920.jpg)
Side hangers of the rear bumper were welded and gringed
(https://a.d-cd.net/RSPhMyucAdm5BHsox8FEt56QWxI-1920.jpg)
These guys were also grinded and ready for primer and paint
(https://a.d-cd.net/AmBncXx_qcO-WggKFr0mtgQUYJw-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/2RfINujIF98yvOAdo5QfNeT4W8E-1920.jpg)
Primed
(https://a.d-cd.net/gDZM6bXBLBe98cThBe0x7fI7MKM-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/hwtK4lCmMG0u7DcquvhYJwl2blQ-1920.jpg)
I used stainless screws instead of original bare steel
(https://a.d-cd.net/eNiq3mBhRVrfrtXM9Tdu4CViwL4-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/_D0LpRY7LdYWLFfxMhR02rOlrUE-1920.jpg)
Interesting detail: Rear fenders were painted without any primer! But it's still in good shape
(https://a.d-cd.net/B0o--N_d4JCOq9b7_Z7jki3OTlU-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/dIkBPE6pt-OXFbVovWiqbB3pXtE-1920.jpg)
All cleaned
(https://a.d-cd.net/fMXYbGm602KmeDRn_h2rPVZoHms-1920.jpg)
I have purchased 300ml of original black paint, which has an excellent fit (checked with spectrometer)
I used an airbrush to touch up the worn paint on the rocker panel's edge.
(https://a.d-cd.net/WsLHQF3QFkiaIZZHAY9sRz2sPcg-1920.jpg)
And... here is my Dream Team
(https://a.d-cd.net/AZDYi18vL57C9UH_fLbLwyXsyLM-1920.jpg)
Almost everything that was rechromed. Plus two 5-inch wide and 6 ft long rocker modlings are still being processed.
(https://a.d-cd.net/wJHfs7sglXB3VUIoDxv-jtpqLOc-1920.jpg)
You can use it for shaving as a mirror, if you want
(https://a.d-cd.net/ytSJXOEM5buDVShJEMIX5LVkXpY-1920.jpg)
You can scroll the posts to see how bad this corner was
(https://a.d-cd.net/2jV1-9U9BNmUZVLHcA4aBnv16MU-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/n6QoNF4bwoIjOLV5lpGNsOmN_oI-1920.jpg)
I purchased this speedometer bezel on ebay for 15 with all the trim around))) And rechromed it
(https://a.d-cd.net/WyxYNFzekv7lAwcGbbfIqFipq4s-1920.jpg)
Dagmar
(https://a.d-cd.net/a8f7rkEfMmNBIjGATL9hrG0zm5o-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/BMMV51vX5CTXayElMmr9U-EhaIw-1920.jpg)
Bullet
(https://a.d-cd.net/AsPwulN6v05gEezBCV2V84KJbsI-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/fjROwNCxFpfg6j_RcGgTjw7k6cw-1920.jpg)
Headlight bezels
(https://a.d-cd.net/TzaVIwCvrJboinUo93Zc8T5anvg-1920.jpg)
With all trim around.
Stay tuned. More posts are coming
I was tempted to install all of this on the car last Friday, but the call of an evening bonfire and whiskey prevailed.
Let's begin with some prep work:
(https://a.d-cd.net/p7HviYoB-_0umPYDrDQDuect_Pw-1920.jpg)
License plate light was partly sandblasted and painted silver inside (as from the factory) and black hammered-finish on the outside. Nearby are a new lens gasket (to replace the old one) and a new fabric wire sleeve.
(https://a.d-cd.net/zVwn042uBvy38A8UWgd79i-8EGw-1920.jpg)
The wire itself was in good shape, so I left it as is. I did, however, replace the rubber sealing ring and the rubber tube through which the wire is tightly threaded. Found the exact dimensions on Amazon. Its outer protective shell is fabric, just like the original. The wire ends are wrapped in cloth tape, indicating it came from Guide (the lighting supplier). Previously, I noted that GM typically used vinyl tape for its wiring, while Guide used cloth tape, so the car peacefully combines both cloth and plastic.
(https://a.d-cd.net/60Hc7viWopZ58__oB3YiN-zUtXs-1920.jpg)
You can see why I kept the original wire: the contact is spot-welded, not soldered—something I can't easily replicate.
(https://a.d-cd.net/yuf65cWcLsRkfUtr-nOV1AR5_YI-1920.jpg)
The assembly is ready for installation. Here's the freshly re-chromed license plate frame.
(https://a.d-cd.net/YeA_C05x14_4vBNW9Y7hyXKMU8Q-1920.jpg)
Next, the inside of the driver's door trim. Now installed. I'll eventually do a separate "before/after" post so you won't have to dig through the log for pictures. Let's just say it looks amazing.
(https://a.d-cd.net/v5TY04_3JuPP57lZ6Sb-cYpMoJA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/82l6HRYV4EkMMZwlheJvFIviyX8-1920.jpg)
The door trim for other doors was also reinstalled.
The Art Deco style, or at least its echoes, is in full display.
(https://a.d-cd.net/3IVKpVHbGQ34fHKm1QX3sWmSTU4-1920.jpg)
Moving on: the antenna nut. Someone previously removed it with pliers, leaving deep marks. All fixed now with fresh chrome.
(https://a.d-cd.net/wjFJQzAtFaZ2_4gkn0jMP1zvMAc-1920.jpg)
I also sent the ignition lock nut for re-chroming; it came back in perfect shape.
Rear apron (the bumper splash shield) I started straightening and prepping for paint in the last post. Now it's finally painted:
(https://a.d-cd.net/9RwIhT45uFql_jMAhqxLYskDRUw-1920.jpg)
Base coat is Sherwin-Williams. The clear coat is also theirs. Base is nitro, clear is 2K (4:1).
(https://a.d-cd.net/6pWclT6bmBfA3fFZnN7Umd5pSHY-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/6n_Acq6j1lQFVp8g0kU1o4pZneU-1920.jpg)
Painted the underside first, then flipped it to do the front.
(https://a.d-cd.net/sVdrpY38pTqyol5xPMAXN_2oorU-1920.jpg)
With the garage door slightly open and a strong extractor fan, there's no overspray or haze. Clear coat is already on.
(https://a.d-cd.net/jElfFuKxfS8OE6Cf4JviCWRIVys-1920.jpg)
By the next morning, the clear coat is solid enough to wet-sand. I knock down any texture with 1000-, then 1500-, then 2000-grit paper.
(https://a.d-cd.net/mvTpM-HKuTeL1t2BvJFxv_Ta4ts-1920.jpg)
Then I use my Interskol polisher (came with me from Siberia!) with 3M compounds #074, #075, and #077 to polish the clear.
(https://a.d-cd.net/rqzIPGCNFGhzDXSIMO02NUpWJwI-1920.jpg)
It turned out really well. Bear in mind, from the factory this piece was just sprayed with nitro paint, no primer, and certainly never polished—unlike the main body.
(https://a.d-cd.net/KM_m6QH0BpJK9mw5LIwZtD8ajeI-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/DGOUXneKw5dV1yA4USKBko__Dtg-1920.jpg)
Installed it, and the color matches perfectly.
(https://a.d-cd.net/N1Lt8ggVLpMI7y8xMAlGHbbC36A-1920.jpg)
The backside is also done.
(https://a.d-cd.net/UtXu_XFneO0Qep6hswqlX72oOXs-1920.jpg)
I used self-tapping screws and star washers—done by the book.
And now the bumper, since I know that's what everyone's waiting for!
(https://a.d-cd.net/43fvxwRttNY0BDODLO29rI9GjnE-1920.jpg)
The bumper was thoroughly cleaned on the inside with abrasive wheels and painted with hammered-finish rust-preventive enamel. The outside chrome was taped off. The same process for the bumper guards ("dagmars").
(https://a.d-cd.net/IWT9d0LpgX91b0Dy0rPGrEh7Xis-1920.jpg)
Hard-to-reach areas got a coat from a 1-inch brush, flat surfaces from a 2-inch roller—two coats total, with a couple hours' dry time in between.
(https://a.d-cd.net/jMsAwz0idzE43Z1MioXWaL-uo_Q-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/qzcZS9BLulFo68Vmq1bydP6B-DI-1920.jpg)
Some areas needed a Dremel with sanding attachments to remove rust.
(https://a.d-cd.net/QYXspgdRVh2Sp_b4Y4u8fC24xPs-1920.jpg)
Also got hammered-finish enamel.
After it all dried, it was time for assembly:
(https://a.d-cd.net/hdFbcyRu3sF_hvrV5hmS56YnX5E-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/FGnFl5zcwfQYvzL7MnCdANYaPaw-1920.jpg)
Installed the exhaust deflectors, then the bumper guards.
(https://a.d-cd.net/CfnR5d9CyT2Jd8gyXYxAIbEu6nw-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/HUiwq7amvAIPvidzhsnYuJLka-k-1920.jpg)
The bumper keeps getting heavier, but conveniently, I use stools/poufs—they handle the load fine.
(https://a.d-cd.net/x_RlWPCsRPd6hR7EcG3D1KbrxO0-1920.jpg)
Added the brackets. All the bumper-to-bracket bolts are 1/2-inch fine-thread; bracket-to-frame bolts are 9/16 fine-thread, meaning some serious torque there.
(https://a.d-cd.net/d39RcvY4Is7h9nCBBHaRbdOXjQU-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/laqMr5VaLFhw5skB3zzhqk1UBzI-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/O4yW6E9Mr7vuaTSA38JS6pA3MSQ-1920.jpg)
Fitted the side extensions. I replaced the cracked original rubber flaps ("splashers") with new rubber.
(https://a.d-cd.net/8Fm0Xiz_ZopCyCPVKOcG3CRHmsY-1920.jpg)
Called my son to help slide this assembly onto the car. We set the height. The bumper rests on additional brackets at the front edges, so it won't fall.
(https://a.d-cd.net/fp4YLu9NheuJjB6NRXwpQNc0FCU-1920.jpg)
Spent a while chasing ground for the license plate light. Turned out paint had coated the threads. A quick go with taps and dies fixed that, and the light now works.
(https://a.d-cd.net/OPMu2BbjhWj22ejZ5WEMVWvgcDQ-1920.jpg)
From the inside: The jack, per the manual, goes under the bumper near the buffer.
(https://a.d-cd.net/u92Cfbm8E9Lax771i8Z2KIkCBII-1920.jpg)
Everything is "feng shui," aside from the well-worn exhaust deflector. I've mentioned my reluctance to pay $1,000 for two stamped steel pieces (non-stainless!).
(https://a.d-cd.net/flyCdXq4cAf4bZVtSIPdlzdCqSA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/EcfQARXB0O8llK0IBq6iw1Mw3Rg-1920.jpg)
I shine a flashlight inside—the exhaust pipe is free and clear.
(https://a.d-cd.net/K1AGAcT5KhGkKKLlea5YDh_4MNo-1920.jpg)
Finally, the last pic shows the reflection. I know you might be thinking, "Where's the overall shot?" Hang tight. Let me wash the car, get it outside, and take pictures in all its glory. Plus, I'll show how the fog lamp and headlamp bezels sparkle now!
Dmitry,
This has been a great series of how you have done this and that along with the up-close photos, priceless.
The exhaust deflectors that you sourced and installed were painted DREEN.
Where did you get them and why are they green or some other color less conspicuous - in your face, look at me.
Great job and series.
Have fun,
Steve B.
As I anticipated, the greatest difficulty in restoring the "shiny" parts was presented by the wide and long sill moldings.
(https://a.d-cd.net/Rw2u145vYIx7Lb49nIwlttfXGcU-1920.jpg)
Their width, taking into account all the edges and ripples, is over 10 cm
(https://a.d-cd.net/tIZpxJg1iQk1EukOf5c32RgNaOY-1920.jpg)
And the length is 1.8 meters. The thickness of the stainless steel is 3/64 of an inch or 0.9 mm. This is a very thick and difficult metal to work with
Below are several photos of the problematic areas "before" and "after."
(https://a.d-cd.net/TqZvUS71rPWsipByIIuFKvUK5Gc-1920.jpg)
The right molding was dented and badly scratched right from the start, plus some genius for some reason drilled a hole for a self-tapping screw to hold the molding in place
(https://a.d-cd.net/8eOEXciyBoKpIguwp8GrFeyKams-1920.jpg)
The hole was welded shut with TIG
(https://a.d-cd.net/F6I3QvNEErRXWL_I18RERmuH0NA-1920.jpg)
On the back side, there is a patch. Otherwise the metal would have overheated and blistered
(https://a.d-cd.net/72xvAMcVRLYWcC5o-kqyzgaAQ3k-1920.jpg)
All dents were straightened, then sanded and polished
(https://a.d-cd.net/rd3kqbGEzxIxO9LUJVZ9tOy0LbA-1920.jpg)
Other damage to the right molding: at some point the car landed the sill on something very large and hard. The sill fiercely caved inward, pulling the molding along with it
(https://a.d-cd.net/A2Zqv_TRL4u_NHxYXX5r5OePxsM-1920.jpghttps://a.d-cd.net/A2Zqv_TRL4u_NHxYXX5r5OePxsM-1920.jpg)
This contoured stamping needs to be straightened
(https://a.d-cd.net/3LDSugP2kJmf_aOJVH8xYFsZYEw-1920.jpg)
There was also a serious crease in the most visible place
(https://a.d-cd.net/WpKFGleZsFvKhMSkAfo69QNzQEE-1920.jpg)
Someone tried to straighten the left molding in the area where the fender meets the body. As a result, they hammered it so badly that repairing the left side was even more difficult than the right
(https://a.d-cd.net/FBKICKD9pMWc-fuKMvdnWqLzetQ-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/6MbowRWufAPEh24JETiWNvLOER8-1920.jpg)
During the panel straightening process, more than a thousand small taps were made using a special dolly that compressed the excess metal which caused blistering on the visible surface
(https://a.d-cd.net/pXHa6EM1hTaiI5O4lcvnT7aS05I-1920.jpg)
But now it's all in the past, because the moldings, after the face of the molding straightening and polishing, are back on the car
(https://a.d-cd.net/dn6DQuwL0KV4zBLa7gy0vxeJ9pk-1920.jpg)
Left side
(https://a.d-cd.net/XlEj_DEMXOx0royHVp0EtdPvKFU-1920.jpg)
That very spot where it was thoroughly hammered
(https://a.d-cd.net/maAYcxXmwp4OdwD-svhQOSKhQTM-1920.jpg)
Right side
(https://a.d-cd.net/vQHEafN_yIE3WW0cOq8ubHO8Fsc-1920.jpg)
I straightened the sill somewhat. I didn't use filler, I only covered it with red oxide primer and then nitro paint, as per factory specifications. The marks from the uneven battle between sheet metal and the earth's crust are present, but are no longer noticeable.
Before a series of final photos of the entire car and its individual parts, here are some workshop photos.
(https://a.d-cd.net/j4hBtKzbEFqUkuiJ_DNV4S38x00-1920.jpg)
The bumper work process
(https://a.d-cd.net/1t7_yJS6l41ffaF35RXKumsu13E-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/r9_gj0BLMdwtMH2XelD5KnJjVxY-1920.jpg)
The chrome has been removed from the parts, and now they are ready for further work
(https://a.d-cd.net/TKRlwmbBorlHjCH7f92RuMpHE30-1920.jpg)
Fog light bezels
(https://a.d-cd.net/juGEk-pgZSeRUueaOjIYqCiz90w-1920.jpg)
Headlight bezels
(https://a.d-cd.net/s6ailprtA3y3GUAE4XqlinQIwd0-1920.jpg)
The process of grinding and then polishing the bumper guard
(https://a.d-cd.net/YW9rHDS2kdVnPG-34ynxu-1X-PI-1920.jpg)
The bumper guard was taken out of the copper plating bath
(https://a.d-cd.net/-ARWEh6Qz8rrIUTn6Z-f7tRJ2FY-1920.jpg)
The process of cleaning the fog light bezels after brazing cavities with silver
(https://a.d-cd.net/DXH8tkOoChAXkl4yZNhLdcJcsU4-1920.jpg)
Processing the headlight bezels
Final photos:
(https://a.d-cd.net/e-6XccYvHoS0n-88iNDGz535H7g-1920.jpg)
Headlight bezels
(https://a.d-cd.net/RMdd07N3w2o6O0gTBgtqABVL5tU-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/6oNKogOZr-yhA5xe-WRuwZpkCug-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/W5zT25HivDv_LTitb9aqf0ECJ9k-1920.jpg)
The entire car
(https://a.d-cd.net/1UjN-LWBathyhPs6uOV98t1QFns-1920.jpg)
Notice the neat rocker molding
(https://a.d-cd.net/-GYgUMU-Neeq0ev_IrAsSnJlvMM-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/tofj4jN_d4eBOC5MyYiXmEI-cCA-1920.jpg)
The left molding in close-up under daylight
(https://a.d-cd.net/ogU7w6UVloNPso4fN_C_F6sOGYQ-1920.jpg)
The right molding under daylight
(https://a.d-cd.net/fYJP4sgOrnQnF8ovtQHiX7D06JE-1920.jpg)
The touched-up sill and restored lower door frame
(https://a.d-cd.net/1hsOKcq9sUU0WlHO_TseHfWyoUU-1920.jpg)
The same on the right side: while everything was removed, I unscrewed the stainless sill cover, masked everything with kraft paper and touched it up with an airbrush using the previously matched paint code PPG 9200. Then I polished it, and it turned out better than from the Fisher Body
(https://a.d-cd.net/heRLRtigzvHIemD8sVuFVawJb9o-1920.jpg)
The rear bumper is awesome. People wrote in the comments that the green exhaust tips are very aggressive. In reality, I photographed them that way with bright lighting. In real life, they're always in the shade and practically don't stand out in color
(https://a.d-cd.net/yKgmvrKLyGR6iKZJWiN4y4uzeBw-1920.jpg)
Yuh!
(https://a.d-cd.net/PVVAsFhksf6ED9cSBJMhLFkt0zU-1920.jpg)
Against the backdrop of an oak tree knocked down by the hurricane
(https://a.d-cd.net/lJeQEBs4BO5H0yw8p3pkfe4pv0k-1920.jpg)
Against the backdrop of a rare-for-Greatwood blue house with a stuccoed facade
Quote from: 59-in-pieces on March 29, 2025, 11:31:08 AMDmitry,
This has been a great series of how you have done this and that along with the up-close photos, priceless.
The exhaust deflectors that you sourced and installed were painted DREEN.
Where did you get them and why are they green or some other color less conspicuous - in your face, look at me.
Great job and series.
Have fun,
Steve B.
I guess that in 1950-s there was a green primer - acid and corrosion resistant
"Dealer Scanner from 1953"
Sounds unusual, of course. What kind of scanner is that, and what exactly is there to scan? Nevertheless, in modern terms, it is a fully fledged dealer instrument used to calibrate the "autronic eye."
The autronic eye can switch from high beams to low beams and back again when passing oncoming vehicles, as well as when approaching vehicles ahead, so as not to dazzle other drivers with the high beams in their mirrors. Kent-Moore specialized in producing a wide range of automotive repair and service tools: pullers, calibrators, testers, and so on. Naturally, with the advent of the Autronic Eye, they made a straightforward device commissioned by GM that allows you to adjust the sensitivity for switching from "high" to "low" and the delay for switching back from "low" to "high."
You can sometimes find these instruments on eBay, but typically for $300+ — and that's only half the problem. The real issue is that all of the ones offered were incomplete. Either the level was missing, or the adjustment tools, or the instructions. I wanted a brand-new one at a low price. After a mere two years of waiting, a device appeared for sale that met all my requirements for $65.
Presenting: Kent-Moore Guide Autronic-Eye Tester Model 10
(https://a.d-cd.net/n2J_CRtBhglCHLVc1yV4qegoiT4-1920.jpg)
The instrument is housed in a metal box painted with a silver hammered finish. A transfer decal stands out on the lid
(https://a.d-cd.net/JPMWhx46DJgO0jE14H8hVeI2BwM-1920.jpg)
Inside is the instrument itself and the fixture for adjusting the level of the autronic eye
(https://a.d-cd.net/LBrexpGTQ-qMkBxgJyjvZZ2lNE0-1920.jpg)
On the inside of the lid, there's a hex key and a small flat screwdriver
(https://a.d-cd.net/yxIXLkiEbxFiu0XRkNm7rYjtfko-1920.jpg)
The scale is color-coded for two types of glass: tinted (like on my Cadillac) and standard clear
(https://a.d-cd.net/atpQoida9oEFJb9yczH-sMwnMOs-1920.jpg)
The level adjustment fixture. The numbers are important. On the back side of the magic eye sensor itself, there's a digit from 1 to 11. That exact number needs to be set on the scale before beginning the leveling process
(https://a.d-cd.net/xcdyvAxHB9wYtPyEmPD8SCK4xgM-1920.jpg)
The back side of the fixture. I suspect that the digit indicates the mounting height of the magic eye, and possibly factory calibrations. The point is that the magic eye was installed on various cars with different mounting heights. Hence the need to adjust where the eye would be aimed :-)
(https://a.d-cd.net/W5n1Otf9I64chvQbgl3dU8gZ9-o-1920.jpg)
A rheostat for changing the brightness of the test bulb that simulates oncoming headlights
And now, here's how to use this instrument.
(https://a.d-cd.net/hpsx1UjG6bbPTzHyUsh_OHfP8ZI-1920.jpg)
The number 5 is stamped on the back side of the sensor
(https://a.d-cd.net/4E8TnRe5S2nyRoOBKsBiw8t5WCs-1920.jpg)
I set the fixture to 5. The bubble is out of place
(https://a.d-cd.net/nvPe1TjDqQhbaaa0fQXmxntv2QA-1920.jpg)
I take the hex key from the set
(https://a.d-cd.net/KqizY_ImLsvPnb05SKlxEzSIV0k-1920.jpg)
... and turn the adjustment screw until
(https://a.d-cd.net/vwEbUbmRQzWfjN64Z6R6mR2KLDk-1920.jpg)
... the bubble is centered
(https://a.d-cd.net/h8GGCb6hCkTwKGVtZdbrK8uV7b4-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/GwFttK4dqN6SrNIWB3cARFuOr3U-1920.jpg)
After that, I unscrew the two screws at the bottom and remove the cover
(https://a.d-cd.net/PN5zrOnvE3suHagoq4ZmAihuLk8-1920.jpg)
The mystery inside the magic eye: a lens, a light filter, and a vacuum phototube that receives the beam of light
(https://a.d-cd.net/-47ugqVtL-PuwECrzEEusotKh1k-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/P233y8SDCi8_c0ZjdyIV5JaPNMY-1920.jpg)
The attachment for simulating oncoming headlights. That yellow glow can change in intensity when you rotate the rheostat on the instrument
(https://a.d-cd.net/dkufErLyKik3UTlx9R1cyfmDTUc-1920.jpg)
I install it in place of the lens and close it up with the top cover
After that, I switch the headlights to automatic mode, give it a couple of minutes to let the system warm up and the amplifier stabilize (as per the instructions). I increase the brightness of the test bulb and note the moment when it switches from high beams to low beams. If it happens outside the narrow black zone on the scale, then an adjustment is needed.
(https://a.d-cd.net/IbGMJbAOjx0AgOiNLjVYtHYwqUQ-1920.jpg)
Using the small screwdriver, I turn the rheostat all the way counterclockwise. The screwdriver has a hole in which the hex key can be inserted so it can be turned like a wrench if the rheostat is stuck
(https://a.d-cd.net/syTvRyV3aJUUCX9yTcq5cNVlWOE-1920.jpg)
I set the right toggle to DIM and use the rheostat to bring the needle into the Tinted glass black zone
Then I slowly turn the small screwdriver clockwise until it switches to low beams.
Then, using the instrument's rheostat, I reduce the test bulb's brightness to a minimum (the system switches to high beams), and again increase the brightness, checking that the switch from high beams to low beams occurs in the black zone on the scale. If so, I can move on to the second part—the so-called HOLD, or the delay in switching back to high beams.
This is so that when passing other cars, the headlights don't flicker constantly like crazy.
(https://a.d-cd.net/oHlCkweXksSi5EryNQFhyY_qfnw-1920.jpg)
I set the right toggle switch to HOLD and begin reducing the test bulb's brightness. If the high beams engage outside the green portion of the scale, I need to adjust that point using the rheostat on the back of the amplifier (old photo, just for clarity). Again, you perform that adjustment with the short screwdriver without removing the amplifier from the fender liner.
First, I turn the amplifier's adjustment fully clockwise. Then I use the instrument's rheostat to bring the needle into the green zone and slowly turn the amplifier's adjustment screw counterclockwise until the high beams engage.
That's it. I pack up the device, reinstall the lens, and screw on the cover.
(https://a.d-cd.net/bNt4AVfzRxYMe8wYiUbREXo0LDc-1920.jpg)
A couple of photos of the usage instructions. It's powered by four large class D round batteries, connected as two in series and two in parallel, so the device runs on 3 V
(https://a.d-cd.net/NMyaqg8yf_RKy1NvtSzzZg_pbIg-1920.jpg)
Back side of the instructions
I have what was said to be a comprehensive 1952 Kent-Moore Service Tool Guide for Cadillac. An introductory sheet from Cadillac, dated February 1953 is tipped inside. While other specialty tools for other makes are included such as those for Packard, etc.; all Cadillac tools in this catalog have the Cadillac Crest emblem in blue next to the parts that are Cadillac. Great idea to source Cadillac centric items in this awesome reference catalog. I see your Autronic Eye tester's part number in your photos, and it is not listed in this parts list. Missed by like just a few numbers. I think the tester then must have been new for 1953, hence the reason it is missing from it? Or, was the first Autronic Eye a 1953 option? I can't remember. Fascinating old tool find there! And to find what might be the oldest AE tester out there is something. Clay/Lexi
Some of these specialty tools were manufactured after the car model Cadillac was produced. I purchased a well used kit off Ebay to diagnose ABS brake issues on our Allante. As modifications for the ABS/traction control system were produced by Bosch, an updated model Kent-Moore tool became commercially available. It's interesting to note that as these sophisticated diagnostic tools were developed, GM published repair manual updates.
By the way, regarding the Autronic Eye, I'm assuming that the system had a vacuum tube amplifier somewhere under the dash, is that the case? This accessory was available before the advent of transistors, so an "amplifier" had to include vacuum tubes and a power supply.
Quote from: James Landi on April 01, 2025, 06:59:59 AMBy the way, regarding the Autronic Eye, I'm assuming that the system had a vacuum tube amplifier somewhere under the dash, is that the case? This accessory was available before the advent of transistors, so an "amplifier" had to include vacuum tubes and a power supply.
Yes, this is a phototube inside. It is well seen on some photos with the cap off
Quote from: Lexi on March 31, 2025, 10:53:51 PMOr, was the first Autronic Eye a 1953 option? I can't remember. Fascinating old tool find there! And to find what might be the oldest AE tester out there is something. Clay/Lexi
It was an option in 52, 53 at least. I saw Cadillacs without Autronic eye, and there was no hole in the dash for it.
Brake fluid remote reservoir
It took me exactly one year to go through all the stages from denial to full acceptance of the improvised solution described below.
What's the issue, exactly: this Cadillac has a floor-mounted brake pedal, which means the master cylinder is located down on the frame under the floor on the driver's side. And the only access is from underneath the car. There are no access panels or openings in the floor. Moreover, you can only check the fluid level with your finger, a bent piece of wire, or by using a mirror. Bleeding the brakes is a complete nightmare, because you can only add fluid using a hand pump, similar to those for liquid soap.
Naturally, on most Cadillacs of that era, dealers were installing remote reservoirs from anything they could find, not only from passenger cars like Buick, Chevrolet, Pontiac, but also from pickups.
By 1957, Cadillac had realized this was a problem and introduced its own cylindrical remote reservoir, which attached via two studs to the hydro-vac brake booster and was connected to the master cylinder by a rubber hose.
As for the dealers, they didn't bother much with underhood aesthetics and mounted these reservoirs wherever they could—most commonly, from what I've seen in videos and photos, on the heater housing or the firewall. They'd drill a couple of holes and bolt it down with 5/16" bolts.
I think we've covered enough background. Let's get to the essence.
(https://a.d-cd.net/_ZguOYhfjAWbeWRuwvS34DhXJc0-1920.jpg)
Just for fun, a year ago I bought on eBay a 1957 Cadillac reservoir described as used but fully functional
The first thing I did was sandblast it and realized it was only good as an idea source and for certain components I could repurpose. Take a look at the screen.
(https://a.d-cd.net/7ukmZlHpuGSSOx3mKJNTvke_-2w-1920.jpg)
I cut it open and discovered the reservoir had rotted through
(https://a.d-cd.net/A5JKAr22j_zsDSxn_MtUoqoOPZw-1920.jpg)
Completely rotted
(https://a.d-cd.net/Wzyqa6pleHq3mA9jd2dNEvkBNFw-1920.jpg)
Also, the bracket with those crookedly drilled holes was of no use to me whatsoever. It made my left hemisphere throb, and my right hemisphere was just humming "to hell with it, to hell with it"
I let that "dough" sit for about six months. A couple of months ago, I decided to revisit the topic of a remote reservoir. I decided I'd only use the cap and the threaded portion from the original. The thread piece was soldered to brass, so I had to heat it pretty strongly to remove it.
(https://a.d-cd.net/V2zpAm9c5rbrvIkOvMJk6ksHM60-1920.jpg)
Based on the inner diameter of the original reservoir, I found and bought a brass tube on Amazon
(https://a.d-cd.net/EIvg_caqNI6cYqiisW4mQ5XK3ic-1920.jpg)
The bottom will also be thick-walled brass
(https://a.d-cd.net/QhHfo9M3nDdkPA3S2MVsfniaTKM-1920.jpg)
And I decided to connect everything not with hoses but with steel brake lines, which I know how to bend and flare neatly
(https://a.d-cd.net/R8RoB00dD2LEtpP_HtL5_JatQsY-1920.jpg)
Let's get started. I also bought a new master cylinder cover so I wouldn't have to cut up my original one
(https://a.d-cd.net/xOLK-YFEgApYk5Rj2a40UqVvyv4-1920.jpg)
I cut a piece off the brass tube exactly matching the height of the original 1957 reservoir
(https://a.d-cd.net/g0o3O4MW-W0r7RaEFiZAOfzhfCo-1920.jpg)
Next up is soldering paste and silver solder
(https://a.d-cd.net/sIFvtuNdQ-15NOftxRmANwvliJk-1920.jpg)
I prepare the surface, apply flux
(https://a.d-cd.net/0nE45KUH4UE0EnZscBKIAnCV0EY-1920.jpg)
This is the steel thread collar for the cover, screwed onto the cover itself. This is what I'm going to solder
(https://a.d-cd.net/QivbFQ_1nHSQD3wlI9oc2xLFpqY-1920.jpg)
The thread collar fits snugly, I heat it with a torch, and fill the joint with solder
(https://a.d-cd.net/-8Z1tl72nW5ly7rE1X41V6HVAmE-1920.jpg)
Checking—came out great
(https://a.d-cd.net/K9l_7TulaAJDU5fqjmqQQeT0G1g-1920.jpg)
From my stash, I grab an exhaust system bracket and adapt it as a mounting bracket. Same process—flux and silver solder
(https://a.d-cd.net/0IJlvg7WV6n79RXdws5s446rGZM-1920.jpg)
Next, I needed to solder shut the vent hole in the new cover and solder in a brass fitting. Yes, it's threaded, but I decided to seat the tapered thread with solder as well, for a permanent seal. I practiced on a cast-iron broken lug from an A/C compressor (those who've read this log book for a while know what I'm talking about). This flux is great, because it allows soldering cast iron
(https://a.d-cd.net/xFi5-r9Nb6iBdqiydQ8_ur3VMe8-1920.jpg)
A 1/4-18 NPT tap (tapered pipe thread)
(https://a.d-cd.net/Mk5KjkGb7YuWBCAFb_P2M5SMjMU-1920.jpg)
I thread it in and solder it
(https://a.d-cd.net/YQ5PJFp5kOlobWwlw4HzzV25to8-1920.jpg)
A vent hole was originally soldered on the side of the hex portion of the cap. From now on, the cap must be airtight
(https://a.d-cd.net/vMx9QBFyB7l2RMG7HrYmYQC5Dbs-1920.jpg)
I do the same to the brass plug, which in my case will be the bottom of the little reservoir
(https://a.d-cd.net/7C8jnVEkAdgWAu6xAptctIqjpGk-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/P9c64L2143pJs0xzLXL-Tkdrhv4-1920.jpg)
First I solder the bottom
(https://a.d-cd.net/X9HIvg7phYGArTlDYFTODyQzbnc-1920.jpg)
Then I screw in and solder the fitting
(https://a.d-cd.net/2JxV1bIVkYRhbEXIGoWKuB4zEbg-1920.jpg)
The reservoir is ready
(https://a.d-cd.net/KTB_41inQ2L36WSMT2GnG3R34bM-1920.jpg)
All that's left is to paint it matte black, like all the other underhood accessories
(https://a.d-cd.net/B9gcLP9uysB46wvPWU8nrQ7x0Qo-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/uPegA7JHDohpwv3eusGT5BBxIjc-1920.jpg)
Not sure why, but I painted the master cylinder cap and even highlighted the letters. Apparently, the guy had nothing better to do
(https://a.d-cd.net/JVdsz8US5B8nH8gWmqyDGbN6wdo-1920.jpg)
We'll seal it with reliable metal-bonded rubber lip seals
(https://a.d-cd.net/iduhfvNYJYXgV81tMd5CzaOkqc4-1920.jpg)
This is just an example—how it looks on my original master cylinder cap
(https://a.d-cd.net/nFoKgeV1o0-Ag6eNnqV4pPqUPAI-1920.jpg)
From steel wire, or more precisely from two pieces of wire that were later joined, I bent a template for the brake line. Using that template, I bent the 1/4-inch steel tube (zinc-plated on the outside, copper-washed inside) the way I needed, then did a double flare on both ends
(https://a.d-cd.net/LVj0lgCpzdyQ5Nb8dC7RqFDRn6s-1920.jpg)
I installed it on the car. Here is the main difference from the dealer approach, where they'd do a rough retrofit installing these reservoirs on the firewall or heater housing. I found a great, convenient spot on the left side of the radiator. I didn't drill anything, just used one of the radiator mounting bolts
(https://a.d-cd.net/BItRouyhw6bUrnH_abx6zOnzquc-1920.jpg)
In the end, it's almost invisible, yet way more convenient than reaching deep into the engine compartment. Also, spilling fluid here will be harder than back there in the depths
(https://a.d-cd.net/VtJ0og2NzFpM10vOsjYnbR5GmFc-1920.jpg)
I slipped a piece of rubber over the line where it might contact the fender. All the bends, and the fact that it's not just a hose but a proper steel line, suggest that professionals did this, not backyard mechanics, haha
(https://a.d-cd.net/UjrF-670cvwPJjjH2AJZCcj1F0Y-1920.jpg)
I found a captive nut for a 1/4-inch bolt on the fender. I used it to secure the line with an original galvanized clamp (I bought a bunch of those last year)
(https://a.d-cd.net/RDjUDkAaTdlPPEO25DzbX7Qozfc-1920.jpg)
The line feeds into the master cylinder from above and threads into that custom-made cap we prepared earlier. Since there must be no air pockets between the reservoir and the master cylinder, you have to maintain a continuous downward slope—i.e., the line shouldn't wander up and down. It should slope gently downward
(https://a.d-cd.net/sM_DgluSNhBUeixVcvliraj7HBk-1920.jpg)
Overall view of the work area. I filled the reservoir halfway with DOT 3 brake fluid, it gurgled, and almost all of it went into the master cylinder and line. I refilled it to halfway and left it like that. Road tests showed everything works, with no leaks anywhere.
In conclusion, let me say this:
First: Yes, I understand this is an offbeat setup, but that's how it was done on almost 90% of Cadillacs of that era with under-floor master cylinders—by the dealers—often far more crudely than what I did in my garage. At car shows, professional judges don't deduct points for a remote reservoir; at most, they note it on the judging sheet.
Second: This entire modification can be undone in half an hour, leaving absolutely no traces. That was very important to me. That's why it looks so simple, although I went through a lot of design variations.
Third: If, during our trip from Montana to Texas in 2023, I had been able to top off the master cylinder fluid this easily for the last 300 miles (when the wheel cylinder seal on the front right wheel started leaking), I would have been a lot less stressed, and wouldn't have had to rely so much on the parking brake and crawl along at a max of 50 mph.
Interesting modification!
You wrote:
By 1957, Cadillac had realized this was a problem and introduced its own cylindrical remote reservoir, which attached via two studs to the hydro-vac brake booster and was connected to the master cylinder by a rubber hose.
Indeed, the 1954 & 55 models had also a remote reservoir, connected to the master cylinder with a steel line.
The position from the remote reservoir was not ideal: near the LH hood hinge. Anyway, a huge improvement over prior models!
Quote from: Roger Zimmermann on April 03, 2025, 03:11:49 AMInteresting modification!
You wrote:
By 1957, Cadillac had realized this was a problem and introduced its own cylindrical remote reservoir, which attached via two studs to the hydro-vac brake booster and was connected to the master cylinder by a rubber hose.
Indeed, the 1954 & 55 models had also a remote reservoir, connected to the master cylinder with a steel line.
The position from the remote reservoir was not ideal: near the LH hood hinge. Anyway, a huge improvement over prior models!
Yes, Roger, you are absolutely correct, my bad )))
In '54-'55 they did a remote reservoir near the hinge
(https://cdn.dealeraccelerate.com/crownclassics/1/309/19950/1920x1440/1955-cadillac-series-62-convertible)
In '56 they had to put a booster next to the radiator with a reservoir on it. And from what I've seen, there was a steel rod link from the brake pedal to that booster (not a brake fluid line)
(https://images.mecum.com/image/upload/c_fill,f_auto,g_center,q_auto,w_1920/v1722008298/auctions/CA24/1124288/587799.jpg?)
So, my implementation is close to '56.
Don't forget that the 1956 brake system had a different system: the Treadle-Vac booster combined with the master cylinder as a unit. 1958 had the same system, but the arrangement was different as the assembly was vertical and located near the firewall.
Indeed, to check the brake fluid is easy on a '56 model, almost as easy as your construction!
Dmitry & Roger,
With all of your research and experience, is the brake system and components locations the same in a 53 Eldorado model.
Have fun,
Steve B.
Quote from: 59-in-pieces on April 05, 2025, 11:56:09 AMDmitry & Roger,
With all of your research and experience, is the brake system and components locations the same in a 53 Eldorado model.
Have fun,
Steve B.
Brake system is the same.
If the brake booster was installed, then it is located inside the left fender next to antenna. Windshield washer jar then was replaced on the right fender symmetrically
G'day Dimitry,
Sorry, but we keep this message board for Cadillac and LaSalle related items.
It may be of historical value, but as for ownership and other stories, relating to the vehicle, these would be best left to give to the next buyer of the vehicle.
Trust you understand,
Bruce. >:D
Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) on April 09, 2025, 08:00:25 PMG'day Dimitry,
Sorry, but we keep this message board for Cadillac and LaSalle related items.
Trust you understand,
Bruce. >:D
Sure I do
This is why I asked
I have plenty of technical content to share.
We're back to the "Autronic Eye." Two years ago, when I resurrected this system, I had to dismantle the electromechanical vibrator that converts DC into AC so the alternating current could energize the transformer windings and generate 1,000 V for the photo‑tube. The vibrator's contacts were oxidized, so the whole unit came back to life after a few gentle passes with fine‑grit sandpaper.
(https://a.d-cd.net/BJRPTqggR_eMeHk25L00GficQbg-1920.jpg)
The vibrator housing is lined with sound‑deadening material inside
(https://a.d-cd.net/ZZtQdKbz6nl8LD4UJbSw7WmeunM-1920.jpg)
The operating principle is extremely simple. The coil magnetizes and demagnetizes, driving a spring‑tempered reed back and forth at a fixed rate (ideally 60 Hz). This produces an alternating‑current field
(https://a.d-cd.net/fBnQdQmziN5Qvy-JC3qh5Bx8LFo-1920.jpg)
I crimped everything back together, and the system came alive
A few days ago an NOS vibrator popped up on eBay. The seller wanted $25; I offered $18 and he accepted.
(https://a.d-cd.net/1mNMEwFIsJM9en9vh7uC3PxAEjc-1920.jpg)
The part arrived in its original packaging
(https://a.d-cd.net/_BzXt2ezf5aiIHickFpjUGKVUMs-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/Mw1tRteQ_8hocEoVrsHovOGcI_M-1920.jpg)
Unboxing. Everything really is brand‑new
(https://a.d-cd.net/5ka3WcHA7O0wOJfGDSYc0r_m_p0-1920.jpg)
The terminals are keyed so you can't mis‑orient it
(https://a.d-cd.net/OHK5Q12L5zRj0WnKyiw0dLxDtXo-1920.jpg)
I open up the amplifier box. I had wrapped the original vibrator in a sound‑insulating shell because it ran fairly loud
(https://a.d-cd.net/DVXxUJz1p5wWzpAzO97fkQ6ggH0-1920.jpg)
The new vibrator is smaller, but we all know size is not critical—especially where vibrators are concerned
(https://a.d-cd.net/bKfsEy4PCFbaZQeID9ifxe0eO54-1920.jpg)
The amplifier cover was factory‑dipped in paint; you can see a void where an air bubble kept the paint from wetting
(https://a.d-cd.net/xVswC2GSWnsJda0D_Jpm1maIVNo-1920.jpg)
New vibrator installed. Bench tests complete. It runs practically silent, yet does its job flawlessly!
So my question was answered with your image of the under dash power supply and vacuum tube amplifier chassis. Several vacuum tubes as well as the 60 cycle vibrator that is the heart of the high voltage d/c power supply , which in fact takes the battery voltage, converts it to 60 cycle a/c for the power supply, then a transformer ups the 12 volt a/c voltage to several hundred volts a/c and then the vacuum tube rectifier converts the a/c high voltage to d/c high voltage for the amplifier tubes...in this day and age of semiconductors and integrated circuits, that signal amplifier can be reduced to the size of a micro chip.
Today I'd like to share with my readers and followers what I call the hangover syndrome—that odd spell when the holiday is over yet your body is still partying, making you circle around the half‑finished food and drink...
I'll start with the inner door trim that had bothered me ever since I bought the car. The original device uses a sliding handle that doubles as both the door‑opener and the pull‑to‑close. Its quirk is this: if the handle is mounted too close to the trim, the chrome gets scratched every single time. That's exactly what had been happening. On the driver's door and the right‑rear door the gouges were almost a full millimeter deep!
During rechroming all those grooves were filled with a low‑temperature silver solder and a special flux (I bought some myself and am now restoring a few spare pot‑metal pieces). After that, everything was sanded with 220‑grit paper, and only then was a layer of copper deposited. Next came polishing, more copper if needed, another polish, then nickel, and finally chrome.
(https://a.d-cd.net/HGNYtW_aR0WWtE0W98PtmJGnzlg-1920.jpg)
Driver's‑door trim panel. All the buttons are now level. The four power‑window switches are mounted on a single plastic shaft (the shaft must be dielectric!). In several spots that shaft had snapped, so the buttons sat askew (you can spot it in earlier photos if you scroll back). The shaft is roughly 2.5 mm / 0.10 in. in diameter. Because I build scale models, I keep plenty of plastic sprues from kit frames; I found a matching rod on one of those sprues and used it as a new shaft, so every button now lines up perfectly. I also glued a 1 mm sheet of foam sound‑deadening material to the sliding handle—just enough to position and secure the handle properly and safely
(https://a.d-cd.net/zSCNqDrL__yOsaqDmy-oFjomhkE-1920.jpg)
Left‑rear door
(https://a.d-cd.net/MjFDQF65ZRfN75aC_zHS4e8dSao-1920.jpg)
Right‑rear...
(https://a.d-cd.net/luf1QQ9rAlkpP8ExtvAYzXmF1ko-1920.jpg)
The front‑passenger trim survived best of all. At first I didn't even send it out for rechrome, but once I installed the other three pieces I realized this one had to be redone right away. Balance restored!
(https://a.d-cd.net/v1811JVRH6yci5nsc3T-TBjoPh4-1920.jpg)
Next up—the rear‑door ashtrays
As you can see, everything inside is rusty. The ashtray bodies are ordinary steel, spot‑welded and zinc‑plated. A polished stainless frame is spot‑welded on top and has held up fine. The world of chemistry and electrolysis is such that chrome simply refuses to plate the inner surface of the ashtray, even if you manage to clean and prep it. You'd think it would have been easier to make the whole thing out of stainless from the start. But no—they saved a few pennies or just didn't think it through.
Ideally, I'd split one ashtray apart, make two new stainless shells from a pattern, silver‑braze or weld the frames back on, buff them on the wheel, and forget about the issue forever. That's for later; right now I needed a stopgap...
(https://a.d-cd.net/4c3LiTo9tl_7zxfnME-zzN3bLgA-1920.jpg)
Picked up a Dremel for literally 30 bucks. Thousands of reviews and a 4.7 rating
(https://a.d-cd.net/h166Eu60ZnOZvHMbSE1NKGz3VOI-1920.jpg)
Inside: the tool itself, a flex shaft, and a few bits
(https://a.d-cd.net/aITABv2UFCx6MrhxFKW2ULD_w5w-1920.jpg)
Also grabbed assorted sanding discs for five bucks
(https://a.d-cd.net/7Xpl190TZsx9PKMX8QT9nKb-JZM-1920.jpg)
And another five for felt wheels
(https://a.d-cd.net/1wCgcozdXWjJKOAg1TD56c2fjk0-1920.jpg)
Used the sanding drums to clean the interiors. Reached the corners with thin burrs—pointed and spherical
(https://a.d-cd.net/wC6AcaU0FhonY_zUZyLHRHVTiJw-1920.jpg)
After several passes with the airbrush I shot the insides with paint
(https://a.d-cd.net/RLmMCZ4C5H_FCofOn4r3NupU-gQ-1920.jpg)
Good enough for now. In truth, there's still work ahead on these ashtrays: the flip‑lid housings need cleaning, polishing, and rechroming. But for the moment I want to catch my breath and switch to other home projects
Next topic—also on pause for the moment.
(https://a.d-cd.net/384XJf0lf9pu_824m4BsCuoKz2E-1920.jpg)
In January I bought a dash bezel on eBay for 15 dollars!
(https://a.d-cd.net/J_tOwP97MSVzcdOlD7EC4PaXKcc-1920.jpg)
The bezel itself is pot metal (pretty heavy) plus two more pieces. Sent the whole lot out for rechrome
(https://a.d-cd.net/16f9QRL7_3NdMRpR7ZysbWiR89c-1920.jpg)
Everything came back looking terrific. Judging by the faded red tell‑tales, the bezel came off a car that sat in the sun for ages. I did cut the new glass instead of cracked original one
(https://a.d-cd.net/VNPJBhR44k2ZOancjDfA5rxYsCg-1920.jpg)
In future I want to pull my cluster and swap in this bezel
(https://a.d-cd.net/UN78iPEwm_4OaHffzQdqD-SCOQA-1920.jpg)
Unfortunately, you can't do it quickly or with the cluster in place. Everything has to be disconnected, the whole panel removed, completely gone through, and reinstalled
(https://a.d-cd.net/OliRJu0H3vZWLwgQzOFhJQ8Ptmg-1920.jpg)
Even with that fresh chrome shining, I'm not yet ready to dive under the dash
(https://a.d-cd.net/uJanaVRh9tdAmBtIa2G3ZlClLqw-1920.jpg)
I hope that sometime this year I'll muster the nerve to tackle the gauge‑cluster refresh
Next item—a desk‑lamp project made from Cadillac parts.
(https://a.d-cd.net/lBrgHrD-yOJc730obkFMz4NZN1M-1920.jpg)
Last year on eBay I also snagged, for about 10 bucks, a working clock from a 1949 Series 75 limousine
(https://a.d-cd.net/0_i9pRpjMt8OS4LCGPeOVxramn4-1920.jpg)
It's an electro‑mechanical clock. The winder runs on 6 V
(https://a.d-cd.net/2IIXVfzJbZijtJnlUYkvmAAzjdE-1920.jpg)
A peek inside. The slanted knob on one side sets the hands; the other side adjusts accuracy
(https://a.d-cd.net/P3x-Tb3yjSSL5JgcueS8uEYAFEE-1920.jpg)
The clock sits in a wooden frame. I'll restore that. The chromed pot‑metal bezel was all pitted, but after rechrome it gleams
(https://a.d-cd.net/22tMS3SLSkgHjm5qIBrZOIGadTA-1920.jpg)
For the lampshade I picked up a very rare valve cover from Cadillac's very first OHV V8s. Rare because it bolts on with two center studs, not four perimeter screws—only 1949 had that. The cover will be blasted, straightened, and painted canonical Cadillac Dark Blue, with the chevrons and script highlighted in white. Naturally, it'll get clear‑coat and a polish
(https://a.d-cd.net/qwUo13p_41LwniJ2uplc_CSopqU-1920.jpg)
Back side
(https://a.d-cd.net/UhObWYwLD4tO1D_JXEh_6Px3lY8-1920.jpg)
The cover has tabs to keep the gasket from squeezing inward
(https://a.d-cd.net/5NvHKPXgIL4BWZx_q23tiAZYI8Y-1920.jpg)
Sometimes in the evenings I take my favorite routes around our Greatwood. A quick stop by one of the lakes in the sunset glow
(https://a.d-cd.net/2EQExz5gMBNjRBDC_lSx7n02Gvg-1920.jpg)
A couple of shots—and off we go
And one more future task, sparked by a recent bargain from a neighbor in Greatwood I met by chance at a Sugar Land car show.
The gentleman had stored R‑12 refrigerant in his garage for more than 30 years—banned from commercial use in the U.S. since the early '90s. A 30‑pound cylinder (14.5 kg) and seven 15‑ounce cans (about 450 g each). I paid him $400 for the lot, which is a very good price.
(https://a.d-cd.net/WllgIEkR6AToalAH_BmdXU3p2eo-1920.jpg)
The cans come with a pierce‑type tap and a fitting
Plan is to evacuate all the old refrigerant, pull a vacuum on the system, check the oil level in the compressor (fill up or replace if needed), and charge exactly 5.5 lb (2.49 kg) of fresh R‑12 by weight, just as the manual calls for.
Great thread!
I love this car.
I have working AC in my 55 FW too.
This is, I believe, very close to what car underbody was back in 1953. Enjoy.
(https://a.d-cd.net/U78oM8wwxmdlsf2RqYT8SYNxGoc-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/rDiVbxUq-UUqo9y6ZMukUovnN3Q-1920.jpg)
Note that all primer smudges come from 1953 ))
(https://a.d-cd.net/i-GSDuyZctyt2WguhLRLe9bmDEc-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/OCb-A3ppqDSDU3a46kb5d7mdAM0-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/7dBvnDoblnVYK2gwNVcpodt5rwI-1920.jpg)
Rear axle was not painted from the factory. So I left it as is, only cleaned
(https://a.d-cd.net/1uEdagLoXHsBmw7xwomvMKII9Fg-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/X2Piz2oKAEG81JmfE-V_Ar9sO4M-1920.jpg)
And, pictures taken with a flash
(https://a.d-cd.net/35Xz5jARkkLMuZjclAi5hz6dw-g-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/Iq0873IMNILQyCXVsiOPKrz1TjM-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/qQ0ig36X2wB-Yuz-Q-kLL6bneag-1920.jpg)
Passenger side
(https://a.d-cd.net/hw-Xl36IOZrMo51Z6z8JoUhjlh4-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/9342pz4Phmhl4dhytujdGLp5sV4-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/lBF18r2VuxLQ6rypyEBUBfaCjOQ-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/Q1Zlrix3cO9KtqPFvjP5hxyM2SE-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/0I1ZDVd7p0DeU8-NuvdzpT3xCxw-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/mCsnJl53id1Pq4giYt-Mr-fkSUU-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/eiGhhdxR1ssJZDt0f8qdr1HKMw8-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/XzAKR6Gy1LSlOAr1Dq_43vAphsg-1920.jpg)
Driver side
(https://a.d-cd.net/NNcNqVVqnLA8A9wJDXFc09584Zs-1920.jpg)
Nice! What did you use as insulator for the front exhaust pipes? On my '56, I used a material sold as a roll and not easy to install when all is assembled...
Quote from: Roger Zimmermann on April 18, 2025, 11:50:42 AMNice! What did you use as insulator for the front exhaust pipes? On my '56, I used a material sold as a roll and not easy to install when all is assembled...
Here we go
https://www.racetronix.biz/p/dragon-sleeve-1800f-2-black/299-dgn2.00bk
Thanks for the info!
Yesterday turned to 39000
Purchased when it was 35500
Just in few days added 2200 over the trip Montana - Texas
Additional 1300 driven in almost 2 years
Shot at Sandy McGee's Restaurant, Richmond, Morton Street, TX
Whitewall Tires
The question "What should I do?" I'm asking myself, not the readers—just a disclaimer.
I did some research on the subject of whitewall tires.
I'm talking specifically about true vintage tires in look and feel, not the modern radial ones with thin white stripes, but the authentic ones used 50-70 years ago.
Since the mid-1990s, when I restored my "Chelita" (a 1966 Soviet Volga GAZ-21), I've been trying to find and bring whitewall tires from the USA. With the advent of the internet, things improved dramatically, and in 2002, I bought a set of 5 tires from universaltire.com to replace the original И-194 tires on my Volga. By the way, back then, one tire cost $91 compared to today's $280 for the same tire!
(https://a.d-cd.net/04NcWdBFrIwEp8ZDk596JyJun5w-1920.jpg)
The original 670-15 for the GAZ-21
(https://a.d-cd.net/1QvrppsB574wq5z6iMzyszs_DXo-1920.jpg)
Universal tire 670-15 with a 3.25-inch whitewall. Diagonal tires make the car look incredibly authentic—exactly as it appeared on Soviet Autoexport posters of that era.
(https://a.d-cd.net/KEXzbTlpkgY4QWP0t7RaUrQ9Tho-1920.jpg)
Now no one can say anymore that it hasn't been touched (does everyone see the fly?)
(https://a.d-cd.net/d4e2d5s-1920.jpg)
The main visible difference between diagonal (bias-ply) and radial tires is the tread and proportions. Bias-ply tires have a narrower tread, meaning a smaller contact patch, and a height equal to the width—giving them a square profile. Radial tires typically have a profile height smaller than their width (75-80% maximum), wider tread, and a rounded sidewall, making them appear "plumper," whereas bias-ply tires look slimmer and more structured.
These seemingly minor differences have significant implications. On the road, bias-ply tires are more sensitive to imperfections because of their rigid carcass, transmitting shocks directly to the wheel and steering wheel instead of absorbing them. Daily driving on such tires requires increased driver concentration (read: adrenaline rush). On the other hand, radial tires lack the authentic 1950s look, and the difference is easily noticeable.
Next is a brief analytical overview with pictures from an inconspicuous Sugar Land garage and, as a culmination, some not-so-comforting conclusions at the end of the review :-) Hope you enjoy it.
(https://a.d-cd.net/uIIGkgf0ycSbm08_KVwgW2lIz7E-1920.jpg)
As a spare, I have an old tire with a fairly narrow white stripe.
(https://a.d-cd.net/B3hHA0pl-LXpemI_RR41a2HMnQc-1920.jpg)
The stripe measures about 1.5 inches across.
(https://a.d-cd.net/JZ17NSSVY_xTyIIgVvIbgC4v_ME-1920.jpg)
The tire is genuinely old-school.
(https://a.d-cd.net/r8vg8yIzX120gcMaeVkVCkkwBd0-1920.jpg)
The back side.
(https://a.d-cd.net/6aaXWQcxrKV4P6jl9DJGDHx7YBQ-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/AHMYL32Jlp_VDBZ06WhanAZI7zc-1920.jpg)
It's a Good Year tire.
(https://a.d-cd.net/quBvV-KetiL-yP-fBgJt-gF_3nQ-1920.jpg)
Tubeless, though on a wire-spoke rim, it can only be mounted with a tube.
(https://a.d-cd.net/xuUfCvs3kpz-vwGEj___ASq-g_s-1920.jpg)
Load and pressure data.
(https://a.d-cd.net/rp_eGrzGhxjKO05Rg0sTee3VQxI-1920.jpg)
17th week of 1968, by the way.
(https://a.d-cd.net/usP_l30z7ld6XyVtuRVJbYVQpug-1920.jpg)
The tire size is 9.15-15, while the original size was 8.2-15.
(https://a.d-cd.net/Djx4fMQ4tOCM4-bzBK3yOLpcP5E-1920.jpg)
The first digit in 9.15 mainly affects the tread width but not significantly the profile height. There's almost an inch difference in width between 8.2 and 9.15, but nowhere near an inch difference in height. I'd say it's negligible.
(https://a.d-cd.net/MeBLuw-oH7Z5wYcp5xD6-4isQDE-1920.jpg)
For comparison, I removed one of the tires currently on the car—these are radial Coker tire 235-75R15 with a 3.125-inch whitewall.
(https://a.d-cd.net/7vvpEReFXjdmzgiaYuTnDwLgdAY-1920.jpg)
As seen, if there's any height difference, it's so small it can be attributed to measurement error.
(https://a.d-cd.net/u3hDuRY_2V1HN354TIyM-US7lkY-1920.jpg)
The visible whitewall is less than 3 inches. I called Coker, and they confirmed my guess: part of the whitewall is hidden under the rim. This, by the way, is an important consideration when selecting tires.
(https://a.d-cd.net/lUQ1sLdjk7wqOzHsLZA5XMVqAVM-1920.jpg)
According to documents—3.125 inches, and the price at the time of installation in 2018. The odometer showed 35,250 miles, meaning Bill drove around 250 miles between 2018 and 2023 when we purchased the Cadillac. Hmm, curious where he went?
(https://a.d-cd.net/5rtOsWsebqqdUhDcf-2_pCV8zgs-1920.jpg)
Now let's compare how radial and diagonal tires look on the car...
(https://a.d-cd.net/6sxFO8n-_gBmabTnkcczNrMaLx8-1920.jpg)
Radial tire. Looks great, and if you're not an expert, you'd consider it normal.
(https://a.d-cd.net/mapA9M2FEJuKojEP7cAtsT_l8oA-1920.jpg)
But once the diagonal tire is mounted, the car takes on a completely different appearance. Yes, the stripe isn't perfect—it should be wider and start from the rim—but the look is slimmer and more vintage, exactly what we're aiming for.
(https://a.d-cd.net/_7L_5NOvpa8jeVcUGgRZ7cS_doQ-1920.jpg)
Again: radial tire.
(https://a.d-cd.net/tvz6d_NxVGSe-qDolItUgAJXSkw-1920.jpg)
Diagonal tire. From the distance between the bumper and block, you can visually tell how much higher the car sits on diagonals compared to radials. The reason—less "squishiness," despite profiles of similar height.
Let's summarize the uncomfortable conclusions.
1. Yes, I have practically new, excellent tires perfectly matching the required dimensions.
2. No, these tires don't match the high standard and authenticity required for this Fleetwood.
What to do next?
There are several options; one of them is to do nothing and continue convincing the inner worm that "everything is just fine."
Another option—buy new tires, but the question is—which ones?
(https://a.d-cd.net/JgZQYDdWMKVg5BpWYm-ge6jCo0Y-1920.jpg)
A budget option—bias-ply Coker Classic L78-15 with a 3-inch whitewall at $276 per tire.
(https://a.d-cd.net/tF9X9tmdCH58QoFSoG_R5jLM1WU-1920.jpg)
Second option—a timeless classic—Universal 820-15 with a 3.5-inch whitewall at $322.
(https://a.d-cd.net/17yHWXhggHKQ3lpWTryesDg8APA-1920.jpg)
Here's how Universal looks on a Cadillac rim.
(https://a.d-cd.net/-XfnRiq2f5HjL_a66GK79DJBopU-1920.jpg)
And option number 3—radial tires designed to look like bias ply—American Classic 820R15 with a 3.25-inch whitewall.
(https://a.d-cd.net/HzBYkZo3509ls06WPvxoxTLzQ9M-1920.jpg)
The tread is as close as possible to old-school (compare with Goodyear).
(https://a.d-cd.net/s4t_BBgLOAtEFBHzfnhVbjG2RIs-1920.jpg)
It looks quite respectable on a Cadillac rim.
P.S. I plan to sell my very good radial Cokers for half a price of the new set. Please let me know, if you are interested messaging to kudims-at-gmail-dot-com
As you explained, the profile height on a bias tire is more or less en relation with the width. Repro tires have a nasty characteristic: the profile height is inconsistent relative to the width, usually exagerated. I remember a friend with a 6.70 x 15 repro tire: he could not put the spare wheel into the compartment, the tire had a too large diameter.
At first, I had repro 8.20 x 15 tires for my '56 Biarritz; I did not pay attention to the outside diameter. When I was confronted to an original tire from the fifties (same dimension, of course), my tires had a much larger outside diameter compared to the original tire. Conclusion: be careful with tire from then and what is offered now.
I will give another choice for your new tires: a set of 820R15 Auburn from Diamond Back Classic. They have the look of a bias tire, but are indeed radials. I don't know the price yet; I paid $ 289 each in 2022. I will never ever buy a Coker tire, not even for a wheelbarrow!
Quote from: Roger Zimmermann on April 24, 2025, 12:57:59 PMI remember a friend with a 6.70 x 15 repro tire: he could not put the spare wheel into the compartment, the tire had a too large diameter.
At first, I had repro 8.20 x 15 tires for my '56 Biarritz; I did not pay attention to the outside diameter. When I was confronted to an original tire from the fifties (same dimension, of course), my tires had a much larger outside diameter compared to the original tire. Conclusion: be careful with tire from then and what is offered now.
I will give another choice for your new tires: a set of 820R15 Auburn from Diamond Back Classic. They have the look of a bias tire, but are indeed radials. I don't know the price yet; I paid $ 289 each in 2022. I will never ever buy a Coker tire, not even for a wheelbarrow!
Roger, the issue with the outer diameter might be valid, because I know that 820-15 Universals do not fit the rear fender arch on Soviet Chaika GAZ-13. The original size for that car is 800-15, but still. So, they use L78-15 from Coker.
670-15 from Universal were 100% identical to my original Soviet tires, and it had perfect fit in the spare wheel compartment (it's the same vertical orientation as in Cadillacs).
I check all the outer tires diameter (from the website), and for the 820-15 it varies from 28.9" (Coker radials as mine) to 29.5" Coker & Universal bias-ply and to 29.91" for American Classic 820R15
Diamond Auburn: I have checked the following, watched several youtube videos from the fabrication process of Coker and Diamond, and here is what I don't like:
1. Diamonds are fabricated in China as Blackwalls
2. White strip is vulcanized on a garage-type equipment here in US
3. White strip is not the part of the tire structure, as it is on Universals and Cokers
4. I don't like China tires, because the rubber quality is poor. They start to crack just because of age, even if you don't drive them. The same as Vogue tires - total scrap.
I would probably consider Diamonds seriously, if they would cost 50% compared to Cokers, but even though it's a "Russian roulette".
American Classic is a true radial tire, and the price is even less than for Diamonds, and they are in stock. Diamonds you need to wait for 60 days - I called them recently.
I've always driven my 54 on Bias Ply 8.20x15 Firestone tyres. I don't like how the radial tyres look. My car drives nicely with a fully rebuilt steering system including nos shaft and recirculating ball nut. When the car starts to follow ruts in the road it's time to lube everything, then all is good again.
Same here Phil. Never have liked the look of radials on these old cars either. I like the look of my Firestone 8.20 x 15s as well. Just wish Coker did a better job manufacturing them. Clay/Lexi
Quote from: Lexi on April 24, 2025, 08:04:36 PMSame here Phil. Never have liked the look of radials on these old cars either. I like the look of my Firestone 8.20 x 15s as well. Just wish Coker did a better job manufacturing them. Clay/Lexi
But would you change bias ply tires to radials looking identical to bias ply keeping in mind that they perform better on a road?
If there was no option like American Classic above, I would definitely go with bias ply 820-15, a?
Good question, but there is currently no exact duplicate in radials that I am aware of. When parked at a car show I see my car's higher profile tires, the "pie crust" edge around the tire plus the extra width (and branding) on the white wall, (see attached image). If all of that was replicated I would certainly consider it. If I drove the car a lot more that would also be a factor to consider. I would also have to do some research on this. I don't mind driving a "time machine" and if I wanted a newer feel to the ride I would probably buy a newer car. I have been told that the radials will provide a more "hard" ride, so again, I would have to investigate this and also determine what re-adjustment and potential impact radials may have on my front end to accomodate them. So to answer your question, I am not sure. Clay/Lexi
Quote from: kudims on April 24, 2025, 08:29:40 PMBut would you change bias ply tires to radials looking identical to bias ply keeping in mind that they perform better on a road?
If there was no option like American Classic above, I would definitely go with bias ply 820-15, a?
Like Clay (Lexi) I'm happy with my bias ply tyres and I'm not convinced by any of the radial wide whitewalls. So unless things change I'm sticking with bias ply. I've seen so many classic cars and trucks with the WW radial tyres and my eye is immediately drawn to them as they look wrong. Just my opinion. Phil
New tires that look authentic bias-ply, but are radials
The general consensus eventually settled on this: if there had been an engineer writing a prescription for a 1953 Cadillac, it would've said American Classic 820R15 — without hesitation.
One click on eBay, and I bought those tires at the same price listed on Coker's website — but with free shipping. Which is ironic, because I'd been given a direct contact at Coker who promised me discounts and all that. In the end, yes, I did get a $52 discount per tire, but the invoice had a surprise line item: shipping — $284, which more than wiped out the discount. Add taxes, and I ended up paying even more. Strange folks, but whatever.
Right after that, I listed my old tires on eBay.
(https://a.d-cd.net/wtL0TX0QU3pvHeL3xW5RRCv1YSM-1920.jpg)
The tires were off to be dismounted — Cadillac Sixty Special (4G)
(https://a.d-cd.net/LfecJnoXUtE3JtrbxuCDEdbOnWw-1920.jpg)
Almost like new, now at 50% off — Cadillac Sixty Special (4G)
Three tires sold on the first day, and the fourth is about to be picked up locally.
Just two days later, a small hill of new tires had grown outside my front door:
(https://a.d-cd.net/NMwfCmkEJwEDtWlVauyr0krJSJU-1920.jpg)
Then began the work on the wheels. Reminder: the car came from the factory with steel wire-spoked chrome wheels. Due to their construction, they're not airtight and weren't made for tubeless setups — but I had this itch to try running without inner tubes. Worth a shot, right?
(https://a.d-cd.net/K6I7TSIvkPnO20Et7xr_CcvVIq4-1920.jpg)
This is what the wheels looked like. All the oxidation had to be carefully removed to apply sealing tape
(https://a.d-cd.net/_JJ9RSP_EWEKLwk5qchO0cMIufU-1920.jpg)
Unfortunately, since moisture had made its way through the spoke holes, there were pockets of corrosion that could only be fully dealt with via sandblasting — which, for obvious reasons, wasn't part of the plan.
(https://a.d-cd.net/7Z_8czdGy4p5XjrWKs5SDI2sIhY-1920.jpg)
Here you can see everything clearly. The brown tape is genuine leather, originally installed at the factory to protect the inner tube from spoke nipples
(https://a.d-cd.net/_yGxCQirCFzlay0IXxoPLmwah1E-1920.jpg)
Wheels cleaned up and ready for degreasing
(https://a.d-cd.net/c8kd09fR1Vy1XHzBeD5hHBZcaUU-1920.jpg)
Kelsey-Hayes — the wheel manufacturer. All dated May 1953
(https://a.d-cd.net/c95359N3AzZ9H58wKfXZUJQvFxY-1920.jpg)
Degreased and prepped for sealing
(https://a.d-cd.net/cjg-F6PjRlV7RbQQ-Xv1fHdKlos-1920.jpg)
Using cloths soaked with chrome polish and wrapped around the spokes, I was able to bring back their shine:
(https://a.d-cd.net/1hRUv6t2BzdvbqFewp0HL1TqL9g-1920.jpg)
Cleaning the rims: same method, cloth between each spoke and back-and-forth scrubbing
(https://a.d-cd.net/hHq0g5boAWkjKNIez4QvIzPKrfo-1920.jpg)
Center hubs: same treatment
(https://a.d-cd.net/L4UcH3GiDLvFcl41xQZZkeSgkPw-1920.jpg)
In the end, the wheels looked great. Note that these are unrestored rims from 1953.
(https://a.d-cd.net/bggvd6pXDg8jsXD4BNjH9XrKf4w-1920.jpg)
The sealing tape I ordered off Amazon turned out to be junk. Poor adhesion (even though it was supposed to bond permanently), zero flexibility (a major flaw — flexibility is key to avoid wrinkles). So I tried thick aluminum HVAC tape, and it laid down beautifully — I'd say rock solid.
(https://a.d-cd.net/eOIx7BzGkWIh1y7wMDwWWQqJjxM-1920.jpg)
Used these nice valve stems, good for both 1/2" and 5/8" holes
So far, so good. But doubt kept creeping in — what if the tire starts leaking through the spokes? Maybe not immediately, but eventually... Do I really want that?
So I decided to mount the tires, inflate the wheels, and let them sit for a few days to monitor them. If they held pressure, I'd get them balanced and install them on the car.
We mounted one tire in the garage, and my son and I tried to get it seated on the rim. No luck — no matter what we did. Unlike modern low-profile tires, this one wouldn't even touch the bead seats. We used straps and pressure, tried to coax one side on first — nothing. The compressor had enough power, but the air just blew straight past. I wasn't about to start lighting gas inside the tire.
So I took a moment to sulk and came to peace with it: inner tubes it is. We installed tubes, inflated the tires, and took measurements.
(https://a.d-cd.net/F-LMlJ-sJtC165hTDr1kKB7Rh7Q-1920.jpg)
The 235/75R15 radial on the right looks tiny next to the 820R15 on the left
(https://a.d-cd.net/dDXxEMXYcNxkjOYXV16EPVllZ3M-1920.jpg)
True width is right around 235 mm
(https://a.d-cd.net/c0eEl15MCaA8SvO0ywU9OQSbngw-1920.jpg)
Tread width: 17 cm
(https://a.d-cd.net/SfcxXz9WZjke6DbDmdzri6MKk78-1920.jpg)
New radial (styled to look like bias-ply): tread width is 13 cm
(https://a.d-cd.net/W2Z8-PIhhytt3tXphj79XoKhVhM-1920.jpg)
Height of the old radial: 718 mm
(https://a.d-cd.net/i8ul8xcL658d_QjGdQFc65zG-Zs-1920.jpg)
Height of the new radial: 748 mm
(https://a.d-cd.net/jbqKRjfPHlit9cULaSgWzol3ao0-1920.jpg)
DOT stamp: Week 11, 2025 — March production
(https://a.d-cd.net/zsvddGZdWpfF61F95AOSIbqeglY-1920.jpg)
Took them to be balanced. Total: $56 for all four. Each wheel needed 170–180 grams (6 oz). Each weight strip is 1/4 oz. One ounce = 30 grams. The computer balanced dynamically and statically, at multiple speeds. I'll test them later on the highway.
(https://a.d-cd.net/z-Pk5jLSCvsa85xaC20IuNA4XXA-1920.jpg)
Compared to a GLS tire
(https://a.d-cd.net/28JIcdrP93spzmdIajpMpdpiduc-1920.jpg)
Compared to an Escalade wheel (285/45R22)
(https://a.d-cd.net/PWdNcHT4W4XbiNQHxBnoJgCb7LI-1920.jpg)
Time to install them.
(https://a.d-cd.net/EOfdA15gWi8x5Zuu8KD7wI8IUhM-1920.jpg)
This is how the car looked with the old radial tires
(https://a.d-cd.net/dmmEkaDOlUDsZ9JW-lGP4AAoM_E-1920.jpg)
This is how it looks now. Tape measurements show increased ground clearance from 22 to 25 cm at the rocker. You can see the difference in bumper-to-block height
(https://a.d-cd.net/f99eTOIFzln0SwhbqI0ajkBfPeE-1920.jpg)
Time to wash blue strip
(https://a.d-cd.net/VT0kte9MO9KmKV0Yv9u2EXRdt3c-1920.jpg)
The car now has a much tougher stance
(https://a.d-cd.net/oRQil-XbWFVTsPpuYwUeA6Fy9NY-1920.jpg)
Took it for a short test run.
(https://a.d-cd.net/CwJIuoQ9PEMMaNd7CwgW6yqdYBc-1920.jpg)
Haven't hit the highway yet, but I drove around Greatwood. Roads here are all concrete, with sharp expansion joints. With the old radials, you could really feel them. On these — you don't hear or feel a thing.
(https://a.d-cd.net/DJSZQnTAcGZmo99C6AmOkrpUW6k-1920.jpg)
Narrower vintage-style tires really suit a '50s car
(https://a.d-cd.net/Yf5ENoCGOuUrYROSBVFuiEEhlOU-1920.jpg)
The speedometer is now much more accurate compared to GPS
(https://a.d-cd.net/56ofskQQjxDzgQEybdVOrQnfCZ4-1920.jpg)
At full steering lock, no more rubbing inside the fender
(https://a.d-cd.net/fgDv5yjPN-rNiWq0TxVHAp0jWXc-1920.jpg)
Used to rub hard at full turn
(https://a.d-cd.net/CLlXK7Zsb02_JTeentcPfUiUSOQ-1920.jpg)
Now there's a safe gap
(https://a.d-cd.net/PfnYAzGe5zfu9KjAPw4IgiBgF48-1920.jpg)
I used to avoid pulling into the driveway at an angle like this. Now? No problem
Conclusion
As of now, I'm very happy. Here's what changed:
1. The car sits higher, and with its proportions, it no longer looks like a lowrider.
2. The tire fills the wheel well nicely. (When there's too much space between the tire and the fender, it looks like the tire doesn't belong.)
3. Ride quality on rough pavement is significantly better. It reminds me of the Universal Tires I had on my Soviet Volga.
4. No more rubbing at full lock — huge plus.
5. Power steering valve no longer makes that whining noise (lika at full lock) while turning a wheel at static — thanks to a smaller contact patch between tire and concrete.
Great report detailing your process ... purchasing the RIGHT tire makes a difference, as you report, in many significant ways. Decades ago, I have vivid memories of purchasing tires and regretting my choice on my way home from the tire store.
Quote from: James Landi on May 07, 2025, 06:57:14 AMGreat report detailing your process ... purchasing the RIGHT tire makes a difference, as you report, in many significant ways. Decades ago, I have vivid memories of purchasing tires and regretting my choice on my way home from the tire store.
Yes, it is true
Makes a huge difference to many models of Cadillac, especially changing the rears on those cars using the Fender Skirts.
Bruce. >:D
Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) on May 07, 2025, 07:49:20 PMMakes a huge difference to many models of Cadillac, especially changing the rears on those cars using the Fender Skirts.
Bruce. >:D
Thankfully, that was not my case, but yes, I hear you
Hey kudims, I just picked up an original 1953 Cadillac Master Parts List. It looks complete. If you need anything referenced let me know. This would have the most parts listings for your car. Clay/Lexi