Cadillac & LaSalle Club Discussion Forum

This is the thread to mention a tool that you just learned about that you didn't know even existed.  Most cases at least for me its something that if I had known about this tool it could have saved me at least a bunch of time but likely also a lot of money. 

It would probably be useful to note if you have used the tool yourself or if its just something you saw.   I will start out with something I saw while just browsing marketplace.

SAV-A-STUD.  Its basically a standard thread making die except for one added feature, it splits in half.  This is great for those studs where its the end that is destroyed likely from you having to go a little extreme to remove the nut and its now too damaged to get a standard die started on it. With this you can expand it and get it down to where there are good threads and work your way out thus preserving what is left at the end. 

Without a tool like this all you can try is the file type of restorer or just grinding more material off till you can get a regular die started.   I'm assuming there is other manufacturers of such tools.  I have never used any such tool but gonna keep it in mind because seems like it could really be worth having around. 

https://esco.net/product/esco-save-a-stud-plus/

(https://esco.net/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/30120_14mm-300x300.jpg) 

That's cool!!  I have, however, never needed one.  I've lived a sheltered life, I guess.  At ~$200 for the set, I might have to invest anyway.   When you need one, you need one!

Definitely worth the cost if it saves special threads.

The only downside is that the small sizes are not covered.   7/16" is the smallest.

Bruce. >:D

I'm picturing it on things like exhaust manifold to downpipe studs.   Those are often corroded at the nuts and into the manifolds.  Access usually isn't great if you had to try and drill them out and you usually don't want to press your luck removing the manifolds from the heads since those are also corroded and even worse access to drill out so pretty soon you are removing and rebuilding a whole engine.   $200 tool set would be way cheaper than that. 

I'm hoping this thread will be full of tools like this that really could save some time and frustration. 

The only downside is that the small sizes are not covered.   7/16" is the smallest.

Bruce. >:D
[/quote]

Hi Bruce,

I have used a number of Murray spring rethreading dies. 1/2-13,  the smallest, 1-14 the largest but they come in smaller sizes down to 1/4-20. I believe thy only make nominal sized SAE, USS and metric  dies.  I bought them as I needed them. They got used very little, but when I needed one, I really needed  one. It took me years to collect six. I like the Murray dies as the springs  holding the halves together are tough and strong for their size. h. Less fumbling getting a socket or vice grip plier on them. Very high quality steel. THey have lived a long time for me. Hell of a trip down memory lane.


tony.   

In addition to the ESCO kit TJ mentioned, Amazon has a large selection "thread restorer" kits, both tapes and dies, in various price ranges.  I was always taught never to use regular tapes and dies to "chase" threads, as they will remove a tiny amount of parent metal, resulting in a looser fit between nuts and bolts, etc.  A handy tool kit to have.
Gene

Yes there is a big difference between thread cutting and thread repair.  Thread repair dies have more rounded 'teeth' to try and push damaged threads back into place rather than a standard cutting die that is gonna just cut what ever is in its way aligned or not so you will likely end up doing more damage and weakening the assembly. 

I don't remember how I learned about that, it was for sure before the internet.  I remember buying the set I still have in a store.  I just can't remember if it was something I just saw while wandering the tool aisle or if I read about them or saw someone using them. 

Speaking of the internet I can't remember the last time or if maybe I have ever seen anyone using them to repair threads everyone seems to do it with regular dies.  Guess the people that make and sell them need to get the word out.  I do remember seeing one person use the file style of repair tool which are often part of the sets.

So since no one else has any other tool suggestions yet maybe we can talk about an issue related to rarely used tools....  So who else has had these issues?

-There is the obvious and most common one, you know you bought the tool but can't find it when you need it.

-How about you do the job thinking you should buy that tool then while putting other tools away you see the tool sitting there.

-Along the same lines who has bought the tool just in case then when finding a place to put it you find you already bought that tool and never used it,  now you have 2.



 

Quote from: TJ Hopland on December 21, 2024, 07:48:05 PMSo since no one else has any other tool suggestions yet maybe we can talk about an issue related to rarely used tools....  So who else has had these issues?

-There is the obvious and most common one, you know you bought the tool but can't find it when you need it.

-How about you do the job thinking you should buy that tool then while putting other tools away you see the tool sitting there.

-Along the same lines who has bought the tool just in case then when finding a place to put it you find you already bought that tool and never used it,  now you have 2.



 

I bought multiple styles of coil spring compressors and did not use any of them.  I bought a weight balancing assembly for my engine hoist and did not need it. Bought an engine start trigger but it was easier just to use the ignition.

I have all those tools but only one style of spring compressor. I do remember buying the spring compressor part way through a specific job.  Don't recall if it helped with that one or not. I think maybe used it one other time over maybe 20 years.  I suppose it depends on the type of car you own and the type of work you have to do to it.  I think with most of my stuff you can get the springs in and out just by removing the shock.

Weight balance thing I have 2 of those, slightly different sizes and styles and I have used those.  They can be needed both with and without the trans.  WIth the trans you usually have to really get an angle to swing it all in.  Without you usually need to get things exactly in the right spot to get them to mate up while also hitting the mounts.  Again if needed would depend a lot on the car and somewhat the work area too.

The start trigger I made one many many years ago and remember using it quite a bit on the project and car I first built it for but it has been pretty thin use since.  I think one hit against us primarily GM V8 people is the location of the starter solenoid being on the starter.  On a V engine its almost never that easy to access from above.  An inline engine its usually pretty accessible and then there were the makes that used an external solenoid so on those cases its super easy to connect the trigger.       

I have tools or equipment that I put a lot of money into that shortly after I thought I had wasted my money. But I have been proven wrong.

Overhead power beam hoist. The most difficult part was mounting the beam into the rafters securely. The 12 ft beam in the room is supported to a 20 ft metal pipe spreading the weight across 10 trusses.
This has been so convenient since I work alone.IMG_20220627_065550945.jpgFB_IMG_1676983700421.jpg

Zinc plating station. Initially spent a little over a thousand on it. then it sat for 3 or 4 years never being touched. Then my restoration took off and this has helped me do things I never would have been able to do.  It has been worth it.
IMG_20211201_110444286.jpgIMG_20240106_160531302.jpg20240920_201221.jpg

Bench top Spray booth. I thought I was wasting money and a lot of wall space installing this booth. But I use it almost every time I am in the shop. It has been wonderful.IMG_20230430_111608706.jpg

That is a super satisfying feeling when you are working on something and run into something where you do need that special tool and you have it and can find it and it does the job.   

Quote from: TJ Hopland on December 18, 2024, 10:39:55 AMThis is the thread to mention a tool that you just learned about that you didn't know even existed.  Most cases at least for me its something that if I had known about this tool it could have saved me at least a bunch of time but likely also a lot of money. 

It would probably be useful to note if you have used the tool yourself or if its just something you saw.   I will start out with something I saw while just browsing marketplace.

SAV-A-STUD.  Its basically a standard thread making die except for one added feature, it splits in half.  This is great for those studs where its the end that is destroyed likely from you having to go a little extreme to remove the nut and its now too damaged to get a standard die started on it. With this you can expand it and get it down to where there are good threads and work your way out thus preserving what is left at the end. 

Without a tool like this all you can try is the file type of restorer or just grinding more material off till you can get a regular die started.   I'm assuming there is other manufacturers of such tools.  I have never used any such tool but gonna keep it in mind because seems like it could really be worth having around. 

https://esco.net/product/esco-save-a-stud-plus/

(https://esco.net/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/30120_14mm-300x300.jpg) 

 These look like something for the head studs on a diesel engine maybe?
 Great idea, I could have used something like this a number of times. Trying to fix threads from the damaged end is iffy at best.

  Here's one for you, see if you know what its purpose is.

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20241222_110623.jpg

20241222_110641.jpg

It may be obvious to some, but I'll tell you what it is after a few guesses.

Rick

Edit: I guess it would help to know how big this is. The total length is 21 inches.

Cadillac Q-Jet adjustment tool.

We would also use Craftsman 1/4" drive, 1/4" sockets on them.

Quote from: Big Fins on December 22, 2024, 02:15:08 PMCadillac Q-Jet adjustment tool.

We would also use Craftsman 1/4" drive, " sockets on them.

  Not sure it's specific to the Quadrajet, but you're right, it's a carburetor adjustment tool.
The top of the knob says "Aircraft Spec. Inc." on it, so it's probably a bit more versatile than just a Quadrajet, but in your defense, that's exactly what I bought it for.

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Great guess, or should I say knowledge, you know your tools!!

Rick

  Now here's a tool that I don't know how I got along without. It's a bit pricey, but well worth the investment.

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20241222_122741.jpg

 For years I messed with the old manual flaring tools, and I got pretty good at it, but this tool is just fantastic.
 Before, if I had a line that used the O-ring to seal instead of the flare, I would have to buy a new one, but with this, I can just make it myself. It will do fuel lines, power steering lines, the bubble flared lines, and it's supposed to do the transmission lines that look like the fuel line but with a longer end on it.
 Before I bought it I had borrowed one from a friend and tried to do a transmission-style end out of curiosity, but the tube got stuck in the die and I ruined the line getting it out of the die. I was still so impressed with it that I bought my own.
 I've done everything it will do except for the transmission line end, I haven't actually needed one of those yet, but I've just done a bunch of the fuel line ends with the O-ring and the inverted flare style for my carburetor conversion on the Suburban and it worked flawlessly.
 If you do a lot of hydraulic lines for brakes, fuel, steering, even A/C, whatever, fabricating or repairing, you need one of these.

 Rick

You can use the offset tool on many other things. But it seemed it was great for getting under the heavy PCV hose and around the dizzy on the other side when peaking the air/fuel ratio. That and it kept you out of the heat and noise of the fan so you could hear and feel the change in the way the engine ran.

I have 2 of them. I found one under the hood laying on the fender, slid down toward the battery box on a customers car. In the meantime, I had bought another to replace the one I left under the hood. Kick me in the head.  ;D 

My new expensive one purpose tools.

I need to slide my body over the frame of my car after I paint the firewall. I cannot use a body cart due to the cross bars that go side to side. So I need to use something that can support and roll from just the sides.

These only hold the car up 12 inches. With wheels off I need to clear 24 inches of the frame. So I am going find a stable pipe to use as an extension betwwen the rollers and the clamp blocks. So the body may be on these for 2 months. Then rolled a total of 30 ft. And no longer be needed. Unless I do another car.

Pricing out trying to build my own roller base it was cheaper to buy these.

20241222_171708.jpg

  I was just looking at those at Horrible Fright. They had a special that for something like $300 bucks you got a set of 4 of them.
 Then I started looking at the individual pieces and realized that I could buy 4 separately for right at $200 bucks, unless their signage was wrong.
 But either way it seems like a good deal.

 Rick

200 per set of 2. I did not see them sold in any other way. But i had to call over a person to help me understand the tags. The actual price of these was 3ft over on the beam. The price directly under the beam was for a stand only(also yellow) that holds the wheel dollies.

Quote from: Big Fins on December 22, 2024, 05:00:38 PMYou can use the offset tool on many other things. But it seemed it was great for getting under the heavy PCV hose and around the dizzy on the other side when peaking the air/fuel ratio. That and it kept you out of the heat and noise of the fan so you could hear and feel the change in the way the engine ran.

I have 2 of them. I found one under the hood laying on the fender, slid down toward the battery box on a customers car. In the meantime, I had bought another to replace the one I left under the hood. Kick me in the head.  ;D 

I had seen one of these years ago and always wanted one, but I could never find one. I just happened across this one and grabbed it before anyone else could.

I know what you mean about losing tools in someone's car or truck. Unless they've fallen out somewhere along the road, I've got nearly a whole set of sockets that have fallen down inside, behind, around, under, whichever, and couldn't be located that are still driving around the country.
I really hate it when that happens!

Here's another tool that I've wanted for years now because of my back, and really didn't know where to find. I was on the internet last week and found this and ordered it. A real back saver. It's what I guess you'd call an over-the-fender creeper.

Screenshot_20241222-092901_Samsung Internet.jpg

 Of course I've already had to modify it. It's made in China, so it was probably designed to fit a shorter person. I had to add another step between the two lowest ones because the bottom one was too low, but the next one was too high.
 And I had to grind down the top corners because they left a sharp edge on each side that would catch my hips as I tried to get down. But other than that, it's great.

I had a 3/8 socket fall inside the body of my Fleetwood when I was trying to remove the rear window trim inside nuts. Eventually later after the body was on the rotisserie and I spun it around a few times it fell back out. If I lose another one when I go to reinstall that trim it will be in the body for life.

Yes topside creeper is a great tool.  You need one just to check the oil if you own a truck built in the last 15 or so years because they are all stupid tall for no good reason.  Also handy if you have a huge car and need to get to something like say the distributor if its not a Cadillac or Buick.

Those dollies look more handy than the 4 wheel ones as long as you don't need the surface area.  You can use the 4 wheel ones but take up a lot more space both when in use and being stored.

That looks like a really complete flaring kit.  I got a similar one but I went with a pistol style thinking it would be better in some tight places.  Mine also only came with the common automotive dies, looks like that one also has the HVAC style. They are available for mine and the case has the slots but it added a chunk of cost.

I have a carb tool that doesn't have the hard tube, its basically a screwdriver with the speedometer inner cable.  Has changeable bits and I think some of them are special in that they have kinda a sleeve to hold them on the screw.  The one pictured does too its just not as deep since its got the hard casing to help you hold it on the screw.     

 Yeah, mine won't work on the newer design idle mixture screws, just the old slotted ones, but I always change them to the old style anyway. That way if I'm out on the road and have an issue, I can just use a standard screwdriver.

Here is a top side creeper we can use when adjusting those hard to reach points on our flatheads..

This will get you to those hard to reach places !!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CoA-m5iHG9s

Mike

I purchased this tool for a special task, and it has been very helpful many times over.   Especially for Rochester Mixture Adjustments.

I have lots of other "Special Tools", but I make them myself when required.   No broken tool gets thrown out.

Bruce. >:D

That angle driver tool seems like it needs a camera built in so you can see what you are going after.

One of the problems with cars is wheel alignment.  If you
do it infrequently, you may wear out more tires and have
poor handling.  If you do it often, it takes a lot of expensive
appointments, when in fact little to no adjustment usually is
needed. 

This is a TRIC-KEE TOOL CO model 52341
TRI ang-u-liner  57-A

This simple tool and a level floor allow me to set front end
caster and camber on any of my old iron, right thru 1985
Eldo front drivers.  Bought half a century ago for a few
dollars, it allows me to quickly check alignment, no
appointments.  Most times alignment is very close or no
adjustment needed, saving me a huge amount of time,
money, and tires.  Cars drive right and tires wear evenly,
meeting my expectations.  I also tighten steering and adjust
toe in with a spring loaded rod, if driving indicates a need. 

Perhaps this tool is no longer available, but I believe similar
tools are.  Bruce Roe

Here is a tool I made to pull off the crank timing chain
sprocket.  As I constantly recommend, the original set
will always get changed.  My regular pullers could not
get into the spot.  Bruce Roe

There are several options for a camber caster gauges.  Some are simple magnetic stick on and others maybe clamp into the rims and have more options to also assist in tow.   The most common ones and most common use these days is when changing struts.  Idea is you stick the gauge on before then after you install the new strut you set it back to your initial reading and it should be pretty close to where it was before the new struts.

Did you also buy turn plates?  I sometimes see them for sale but for how often I do it I just have a couple pieces of 12 gauge greased steel.  One down side to the steel is I have not tried to make any sort of locking mechanism so you can't really drive on them without them sliding so my work around is to jack the wheel up and slide the plates under after the car is in position. 

Quote from: Mike Baillargeon #15848 on December 22, 2024, 06:13:51 PMHere is a top side creeper we can use when adjusting those hard to reach points on our flatheads..

This will get you to those hard to reach places !!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CoA-m5iHG9s

Mike

 Where can I get one of these? That'll put you anywhere you want or need to be, if you don't lose your cookies first, lol!

Bruce, I guess I'm not the only one who uses old tools to make new ones. Got lots of modified wrenches for specific jobs, some that I can't remember what they were for now because I haven't needed it since I used it the first time.

I still remember this one though. It's my Roosa-Master diesel injector pump mounting nut wrench for the 350 Olds engine. One of the first tools I ever modified, used it 3 or 4 times and haven't touched it in 45 years except to move it out of the way while looking for something else.

20241222_202220.jpg

  Here's one that I'm sure everyone has. It's my engine powered tire inflator from 1953.

Screenshot_20241222-211532_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20241222-211556_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20241222-211620_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20241222-211632_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20241222-211647_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20241222-211724_Gallery.jpg

 Found this at a yard sale about 20 years ago and have used it twice. It works, but a portable compressor is faster and doesn't fill your tire with fuel vapors.

 Rick

 For highly specialized tools, here's a few more I've made.

Screenshot_20241222-212332_Gallery.jpg

Screenshot_20241222-212410_Gallery.jpg

Screenshot_20241222-212507_Gallery.jpg

 The first one is a transmission-holding fixture, the second is a press for the clutch packs, and the third is of several adapters for the press for the different sizes of clutches and drums.
 I don't use them often, but they are invaluable when needed.

 Rick

 (Still haven't figured out why some pictures post upside-down)

I have seen those 'air compressors' before.  Wasn't there a model or make of car where that was a standard accessory?  Like early 60's and either AMC or one of the brands that became AMC?  Much easier to do on most inline engines, a lot of the V8's had harder to get to spark plugs and tended to be closer to hot exhaust manifolds.

That reminds me of the 'jacks' that were a moderate sized air bag that came with a hose you attached to your tail pipe then used the engine to inflate it.  Guess that could have been sold as a combo pack with the inflator.  Since you were running the engine anyway might as well use it to inflate the spare and jack the car up at the same time. 

Quote from: Clewisiii on December 22, 2024, 05:41:03 PM200 per set of 2. I did not see them sold in any other way. But i had to call over a person to help me understand the tags. The actual price of these was 3ft over on the beam. The price directly under the beam was for a stand only(also yellow) that holds the wheel dollies.

 Yeah, they aren't very good at putting the product with the tags. I looked at that for around 10 minutes to make sure I wasn't seeing things though. If I had had a need for them right away I'd have bought them that day and I'd have called their attention to the signage just to be sure it wasn't a mistake. It probably was, but who knows, it might have been legit too.

Quote from: TJ Hopland on December 23, 2024, 01:20:18 AMI have seen those 'air compressors' before.  Wasn't there a model or make of car where that was a standard accessory?  Like early 60's and either AMC or one of the brands that became AMC?  Much easier to do on most inline engines, a lot of the V8's had harder to get to spark plugs and tended to be closer to hot exhaust manifolds.

That reminds me of the 'jacks' that were a moderate sized air bag that came with a hose you attached to your tail pipe then used the engine to inflate it.  Guess that could have been sold as a combo pack with the inflator.  Since you were running the engine anyway might as well use it to inflate the spare and jack the car up at the same time. 

I've only had a couple of AMC products, one was a 1960 Rambler American coupe, the other a 1969 Ambassador sedan, and neither one had anything but the basic tools, a jack, a lug wrench, and a spare.

I would be leary of getting anywhere near an airbag as a jack, but I can see how that might work. Definitely would take up less space and it wouldn't rattle, lol!

The inflation tool has a check valve in it so that when the engine is on the intake stroke it doesn't just draw back the air it just pumped into the tire.
Neat idea, but with the advent of the portable compressor, which is much easier to use and less dangerous, and doesn't pump fuel vapors into the tire, they faded out quickly. They're just a novelty now.
If I ever build a new garage I'll put it on display.

 Rick

Harbor Freight will usually honor miss marked prices if you ask. I have had it happen and seen it happen enough over time and at different locations that its got to be policy.  Most common issue is they didn't take the sale tags off after the sale ends.   

Another nice thing about them along these lines is all of their branded stuff has those short item numbers so its easy to match the tag to an item.  Most other stores you are looking at the text which isn't quite the same and trying to see if the UPC matches to know you are looking at the right item.  So many times the deal item is out of stock but there are tons of something really close that are not on sale. 

Quote from: Clewisiii on December 22, 2024, 09:04:13 AMOverhead power beam hoist...Zinc plating station. Initially spent a little over a thousand on it. then it sat for 3 or 4 years never being touched. Then my restoration took off and this has helped me do things I never would have been able to do.  It has been worth it...Bench top Spray booth. I thought I was wasting money and a lot of wall space installing this booth. But I use it almost every time I am in the shop. It has been wonderful.

Very nice. Have to admit that I am a little jealous! Clay/Lexi

Has anyone got any kind of tool that works for 'siphoning' gas out of a tank?  Seems like there have always been lots of options but most of them are not especially consistent and tend to make a mess.   Even if you have reasonable access to the fuel lines up front it still doesn't seem like there are great options.  I have had all sorts of different electric and hand pumps and they all suck? Or don't suck I guess.   

Here is one that I have seen and thought about picking up.  Tubes of RTV are quite a pain to deal with so it seems like this would be a great tool.  I would imagine you could buy one for your toothpaste too.  I first saw it on Taryl's channel but also saw one on the shelf at my local John Deere dealer.  Would have bought that one except I was spending all my money on tractor parts.

https://tarylfixesall.bigcartel.com/product/valco-cincinnati-clear-adhesive-sealant-and-tube-gripper

(https://assets.bigcartel.com/product_images/190998722/product_image.jpg?auto=format&fit=max&w=1000)

Quote from: Cadman-iac on December 22, 2024, 11:10:25 PMBruce, I guess I'm not the only one who uses old tools to make new ones. Got lots of modified wrenches for specific jobs, some that I can't remember what they were for now because I haven't needed it since I used it the first time.

I still remember this one though. It's my Roosa-Master diesel injector pump mounting nut wrench for the 350 Olds engine. One of the first tools I ever modified, used it 3 or 4 times and haven't touched it in 45 years except to move it out of the way while looking for something else.

20241222_202220.jpg

I did the same with a 1/2 wrench for the locknut on the 331 distributor.

Heres one that may be "old hat" to seasoned & professional wrenchers, but perhaps news for others. A set of "half size" sockets desgined for fitting over rusty nuts and swollen, damaged and generally worn cap covered nuts. Like those stupid Ford chromed, cap covered lug nuts, to name one example. Recently I spent half a day tearing apart a front bumper clip for re-chroming. Lots of 70 year old rusty fasteners. Between my torch, my son-in-law's induction coil as well as a set of these...the job was done. But not completed until the next day. What a pain in the you know what. Anyhow, these odd sized sockets saved the day. While this set is advertised as metric, it is also said to be appropriate for SAE sized hardware. Good news for us old Cadillacers. This company, Astro, seems to be a major supplier of them and thankfully yes they are available on Amazon. I don't think they are an overly common item, but as a niche tool, they can save the day. Definetly a good news tool. Yes, I am a tool junkie. Got some others to post as well. Clay/Lexi

Interesting, I never heard of intentionally oversize sockets before.  I guess that is one advantage to the USA is since the 70's we have all pretty much had both SAE and metric tools and for some sizes and conditions swapping between them gets you the fit you need.   

Quote from: Lexi on December 25, 2024, 01:34:42 PMHeres one that may be "old hat" to seasoned & professional wrenchers, but perhaps news for others. A set of "half size" sockets desgined for fitting over rusty nuts and swollen, damaged and generally worn cap covered nuts. Like those stupid Ford chromed, cap covered lug nuts, to name one example. Recently I spent half a day tearing apart a front bumper clip for re-chroming. Lots of 70 year old rusty fasteners. Between my torch, my son-in-law's induction coil as well as a set of these...the job was done. But not completed until the next day. What a pain in the you know what. Anyhow, these odd sized sockets saved the day. While this set is advertised as metric, it is also said to be appropriate for SAE sized hardware. Good news for us old Cadillacers. This company, Astro, seems to be a major supplier of them and thankfully yes they are available on Amazon. I don't think they are an overly common item, but as a niche tool, they can save the day. Definetly a good news tool. Yes, I am a tool junkie. Got some others to post as well. Clay/Lexi

Don't be so fast to blame Ford exclusively. I remember, Oldsmobile, Pontiac, Chevrolet and some GMC units that used faux mag wheel lug nuts. They were cheapy thin walled caps over the lug nuts and if you were the next guy after some tire store kid that was impact happy, they stripped right off. You had to 'peel' the fake caps off to get to the lug nut itself and then use a metric socket or as just noted, a half sized socket to get them off.

Yep, as I noted it was but one example of lousy cap nuts out there. The "woods" are full of 'em. Had to "peel" away some of those caps off myself to get at the real nut. That is a good point, that outer skin can be removed. Clay/Lexi

Quote from: Lexi on December 25, 2024, 01:34:42 PMHeres one that may be "old hat" to seasoned & professional wrenchers, but perhaps news for others. A set of "half size" sockets desgined for fitting over rusty nuts and swollen, damaged and generally worn cap covered nuts. Like those stupid Ford chromed, cap covered lug nuts, to name one example. Recently I spent half a day tearing apart a front bumper clip for re-chroming. Lots of 70 year old rusty fasteners. Between my torch, my son-in-law's induction coil as well as a set of these...the job was done. But not completed until the next day. What a pain in the you know what. Anyhow, these odd sized sockets saved the day. While this set is advertised as metric, it is also said to be appropriate for SAE sized hardware. Good news for us old Cadillacers. This company, Astro, seems to be a major supplier of them and thankfully yes they are available on Amazon. I don't think they are an overly common item, but as a niche tool, they can save the day. Definetly a good news tool. Yes, I am a tool junkie. Got some others to post as well. Clay/Lexi

Clay,
I always thought that's what you used a BFH for, just find the closest fit and whack it with the BFH and bingo!! It fits, lol!!

 I admit, when I first read your email about them, I was thinking of really short sockets for getting into tight spots, but then I read on.

Many times I have had to resort to using different spanners to work on worn and rusty nuts and bolts.   I have a good range of Imperial, Metric and Whitworth tools that I reach for to fit.

Bruce. >:D

Here is another sometimes handy tool. The automatic center punch, so called as it is used without a hammer. There are different types but the common variety utilizes an internal spring under compression to store energy. When you place the punch over your work piece, you press down on the punch which triggers the striker pin to release, causing a dimple in the work piece. Their force of impact is usually adjustable by turning the knurled knob, opposite end to the striker. These come in handy as they aid in preventing the punch from "walking" during the strike process as can happen when using a hammer. So when you just can't afford to make a mistake with a garden variety punch & hammer combination, this is the way to go. In the automotive world, bodywork people would probably appreciate this tool. There are different varieties of them, such as self centering ones & others that create deeper dimples, for example. Check out what that awesome American tool manufacturer Starret sells. Attached image shows my British "Eclipse" brand of automatic punch. Clay/Lexi

Quote from: Big Fins on December 25, 2024, 02:04:03 PMDon't be so fast to blame Ford exclusively. I remember, Oldsmobile, Pontiac, Chevrolet and some GMC units that used faux mag wheel lug nuts. They were cheapy thin walled caps over the lug nuts and if you were the next guy after some tire store kid that was impact happy, they stripped right off. You had to 'peel' the fake caps off to get to the lug nut itself and then use a metric socket or as just noted, a half sized socket to get them off.

 I had to replace all the lug nuts on my '90 half-ton Suburban because of those stupid stainless covers. They kept getting stuck in the socket, and of course once it's off the nut the socket doesn't fit correctly anymore. I just went with plain old ugly lug nuts so that will never happen again.

One thing that makes those covered nuts worse is using the wrong size socket and an impact.  If the socket is a little too big all the force is more concentrated near the tip of the corners and as the hammer hits and you get that little bounce back you might as well be whacking them with a hammer.   So maybe in that case a little rust jacking helps?  If the fit is tighter the load is slightly more spread out and you don't get as much of a running start before the impact.

I just typed a long paragraph about metric and sae nut sizes theorizing what is likely the wrong combo that gets used but then realized my example sizes can't really be possible so I'm gonna have to go out and investigate.  I'm thinking I'm miss remembering what sizes I am using and either have some sort of muscle memory and just grab the right ones without thinking about it or maybe grab a whole handful and don't remember the trial and error process every time. 

The covered ones do help if you have any exposure to salt especially if there is nothing else to at least shield direct splashes. I recently went and bought the chrome ones for one of my trailers because corrosion has been a huge problem with it.  We will see how that works out for me next time I have to remove a wheel.  Before I did that was for sure a time I was doing thread repair due to the rust. 

The system I kinda like is I think it was the 90's GM trucks that had the plastic nut caps that threaded onto special threads on the outside of the actual nuts.  I have not had any of those get stuck on.

  Yeah, by the time I got the Suburban it had been at countless tire shops in its life so the covers on the nuts had pretty much had it.

As for rust making the socket fit better, I would think that when you put pressure on it to turn it the rust would just crumble.
One good thing about living in the southwest is we normally don't see much rust unless it drove here from up north, (imported if you will) lol!

Along the same line as Clay's tool, but more bulky, this is the centering punch set I traded a set of pistons for. I don't use them much, but they are very helpful if you are trying to copy a hole pattern from one piece to another.
Find the one that matches the hole diameter and insert it with your new piece under the existing one and your punch mark is perfectly centered on the new piece.

Screenshot_20241227-095154_Gallery.jpg

Got me some of those transfer punches myself, but looks like you got a more complete set. They are very useful indeed. Related to these tools, are "Hinge Bits". They don't punch, however, but center your drill bit prior to the actual drilling procedure. Attached is a photo of a set. Yes, I have used them, and just slip them back in the blister pack via a slit I made in the clear plastic. Not sure how useful it would prove in general automobile repair, but for those who are restoring 1930s and back vehicles that use a lot of wood, they might prove beneficial. Such as rebuilding your V16 Cadillac golf bag storage bin, or a similar area where there is hinge or bracket hardware. These hinge bits self center in the hole drill outs, to effectively center the drill bit which is encased inside the guide. I imagine that any project where you must drill a hole into wood or metal, where there is already an entry hole provided in a hinge or a bracket, this tool would help. They guide the enclosed drill bit accurately into fresh new wood or metal. So yes, still of some use in the automotive rebuild world, but of more use to the fine woodworker. Sort of similar only in appearance to a mortising bit (square hole bit) cutter. Clay/Lexi

P.S. Or use to attach your hinge hardware to the doors on the automotive storage cabinet you plan to make for your garage...

Here is another very useful tool that I have been using for the last couple of years. This Braun 900 lumens flashlight. It has a powerful magnetic base, and also a multi positional swivel head. These functions are great when you are under your Cadillac and need light as well as an extra hand. Just magnetically attach the light to a suitable metal surface nearby, swivel the head to get the light to point where you want, and choose the intensity setting. Horrible Fright (Harbour Freight) sells them. You can also clip them inside your pocket and their hex end cap (and pocket clip), keeps it from rolling away on you. Perhaps best of all it is rechargeable, and that charge last a long time. Best small flashlight I have used so far. Extremely bright. No, I don't work for Harbour Freight. Clay/Lexi

  I've wanted to get one of those self activated punches like you've got, always forget to look for it when I go to town.

Those hinge bits, what centers it in the hole? Maybe a picture of one outside the package?

I've actually got one more small set of the transfer punches, but it's basically the same as one of the others in the picture. I replace ones that get messed up out of the extra set, that keeps the big set complete.

I like the magnet feature on the flashlight. I use one a lot when I'm under a vehicle, and it's always irritating when the damned thing falls on my head because it won't stay in place. And those Maglights hurt!!

Rick

Those hinge bits are for sure in the never knew they existed.  I had to dig a bit (pun time) to figure out what they were and what they did.  Interesting but I can't think of too many times for me where it would have been worth the trouble to swap bits.

I have had an automatic center punch forever.  Someone gave it to me for free because I think the actual pointy bit was damaged beyond repair so I made a new one from scratch in high school metal shop. I remember doing the hardening process.  For working on something that is well supported regular punch with hammer I think is faster and gets you a better divot plus you can possibly use a transfer punch.  IF what you are working on is poorly supported then the auto still can work.  The other place I use it for a lot is when you are trying to bang up something like a damaged bearing bore.

And on the light front this is the light was one I was very curious about.  Seems like with all the options you should have a pretty good chance of getting the light you need.  Or is it a case where its trying to do too much so none of them are really useful?

https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lumen-dual-sided-rechargeable-slim-bar-light-with-uv-inspection-70198.html
(https://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/c7f358f04aec81e7c5e0be4c56edf041/7/0/70198_W3.jpg)   

Quote from: Cadman-iac on December 27, 2024, 04:29:55 PMThose hinge bits, what centers it in the hole? Maybe a picture of one outside the package?
Rick

Ideally, the hole should be chamferred as the hinge bit tool has a bevelled edge which is intended to slide into the sloped, downward edge of the pre-drilled hole. The tool is then centered, so consequently the drilling is in the center. Can try and get a photo if you like. Clay/Lexi

Quote from: Lexi on December 27, 2024, 06:46:04 PMIdeally, the hole should be chamferred as the hinge bit tool has a bevelled edge which is intended to slide into the sloped, downward edge of the pre-drilled hole. The tool is then centered, so consequently the drilling is in the center. Can try and get a photo if you like. Clay/Lexi

 >
I picture a spring-loaded sleeve on the outside of the bit to center it in the hole is what I imagine. Is that what it is?

Quote from: Cadman-iac on December 28, 2024, 07:44:26 AM>
I picture a spring-loaded sleeve on the outside of the bit to center it in the hole is what I imagine. Is that what it is?

You got it! That is how it works. To avoid reflections, I shot the blister package at an angle which unfortunately reduced detail at the business end of the tool. But you are correct in how the tool operates. Clay/Lexi

Those bits are basically the same as a transfer punch aren't they?  It doesn't look like you are drilling much of a hole, its mostly marking it?

I would not compare them to a transfer punch, as this is a drilling tool designed to self center. So it will eliminate locating center and punching your work, as it does the centering and then the drilling all in one. Clay/Lexi

This is probably among the most if not the most useful "different" tool that I have. Yes, it is a vise, but it is a cross vise. So it has 2 cranks on it which move the jaws incrementely along 2 axis points. For precise drilling projects this is extremely crucial. This is my large one, an 8 inch and arguably entry level machine shop quality. At nearing 100 pounds in weight, there is lots of mass to further stabilize your work. Also pictured is my former "go to" cross vise, a 6 inch lower quality unit. Still, worked very well for some 25 - 30 years. These types of cheaper cross vises are more commonly produced with jaws in the 3 to 4 inch width size, but try and stick with 6, or 8 if in your budget. Not nearly as common but worth the purchase. These are sort of similar to the so-called XY/XYZ compound sliding tables for milling machines. While the later would prove superior, for us, these cross vises are probably all we need for the kind of work we are doing in relation to our automotive work. Once you use one you will seldom go back to fidget with a regular vice again. I cannot begin to tell you how useful this type of tool is. Run out now and buy one. Clay/Lexi

So on those drill bits it does drill a reasonable depth hole.  With what I saw just casually searching it wasn't clear how deep they went.  The demo video I did watch it looked like it was just making a dent which was one reason I was confused why it seemed to be such a large assembly.

Quote from: Lexi on December 28, 2024, 12:01:08 PMThis is probably among the most if not the most useful "different" tool that I have. Yes, it is a vise, but it is a cross vise. So it has 2 cranks on it which move the jaws incrementely along 2 axis points. For precise drilling projects this is extremely crucial. This is my large one, an 8 inch and arguably entry level machine shop quality. At nearing 100 pounds in weight, there is lots of mass to further stabilize your work. Also pictured is my former "go to" cross vise, a 6 inch lower quality unit. Still, worked very well for some 25 - 30 years. These types of cheaper cross vises are more commonly produced with jaws in the 3 to 4 inch width size, but try and stick with 6, or 8 if in your budget. Not nearly as common but worth the purchase. These are sort of similar to the so-called XY/XYZ compound sliding tables for milling machines. While the later would prove superior, for us, these cross vises are probably all we need for the kind of work we are doing in relation to our automotive work. Once you use one you will seldom go back to fidget with a regular vice again. I cannot begin to tell you how useful this type of tool is. Run out now and buy one. Clay/Lexi

So does that have 3 adjustments to it? One for actually clamping the workpiece, and two for moving it back and forth, and in and out?

 I need one of those. I have a vise for on my drill press, but if I want to move the work, I have to move the whole thing.
 Very nice.

Quote from: Cadman-iac on December 28, 2024, 12:10:13 PMSo does that have 3 adjustments to it? One for actually clamping the workpiece, and two for moving it back and forth, and in and out?

 I need one of those. I have a vise for on my drill press, but if I want to move the work, I have to move the whole thing.
 Very nice.

Hey Cadmaniac. Technically speaking, you are right. There are 3 adjustments. In the photo you should see the large "T" handle with threaded balls at either end. That, as in regular vises, is the crank for the jaws used to hold your work. To move the vise's carriage assembly on the 2 axis points, there is a smaller chromium, hand crank, for each lateral adjustment. These adjustments eliminate the need to "move the whole thing", as you put it, rather the 2 smaller hand cranks just move the upper body of the vise. This helps so much in lining up delicate work. At least one of these smaller hand cranks is visible in the photo. Clay/Lexi

Attached is the photo that I have had trouble attaching, the companion piece to the one above showing the large 8 inch Cross Vise. The attached photo shows the 6 inch Cross Vise I also mentioned. In this photo you can see both of the carriage adjustment handles. The 8 inch vise is the same, just better built and overall much larger. Clay/Lexi

Quote from: Lexi on December 28, 2024, 12:37:20 PMAttached is the photo that I have had trouble attaching, the companion piece to the one above showing the large 8 inch Cross Vise. The attached photo shows the 6 inch Cross Vise I also mentioned. In this photo you can see both of the carriage adjustment handles. The 8 inch vise is the same, just better built and overall much larger. Clay/Lexi

 I can see it now, very nice tool. Thanks for the picture.

Quote from: TJ Hopland on December 28, 2024, 12:04:09 PMSo on those drill bits it does drill a reasonable depth hole.  With what I saw just casually searching it wasn't clear how deep they went.  The demo video I did watch it looked like it was just making a dent which was one reason I was confused why it seemed to be such a large assembly.

Hmmmm... Interesting TJ. As these are primarily designed for mounting hinges to door jambs, cabinet work, etc., the holes made are deep enough to accept the usual length of brass screws. You have to match the size of encased drill bit to the size of screw you are using. So it centers your hardware, and drills slightly undersized to provide a good tight fit to accept the screw so as not to split the wood, or pull/tug the hinge plate one way or another to cause it to mount incorrectly.

I first used these this fall when I built door jambs for a pair of French, leaded glass doors. Everything had to be quite precise, especially as I left the original jambs in place, then built a frame work super structure to "narrow" the entrance, so as to accept my set of vintage doors. Then ornamental plaster work done. Everything had to be spot on and within 1/32 to 1/8 inch. So I picked these up for the mounting of my 4 hinges and they worked quite well.

Used in conjuction with what I think is called a door hinge "butt" tool, (templates to mark out common hinge sizes), you can get accurate work done. I then use a sharp hand chisen to mark the outline and a router with a straight bit set to the narrow depth, to cut out. While these steps are not for most automotive work, I can see some using these tools making cabinets in their shop to store their automotive tools. Using these self centering tools for vintage automotive wood projects and even the fabrication of jigs or metal brackets would be other uses. Clay/Lexi
Clay/Lexi

Quote from: Cadman-iac on December 28, 2024, 12:39:21 PMI can see it now, very nice tool. Thanks for the picture.

Long story short, this is a shot of the 8 inch Cross Vise in action. Clamped is a Cadillac carburetor with a broken, stuck air cleaner mounting rod. As the rod is steel and the carburetor is zinc alloy/pot metal, this creates lots of problems. I needed the mass of the large vise as well as the fine increment carriage adjustments that it is capable of. Moving the carriage assembly is not sloppy and is very fine. Not like cranking a table saw blade up or down, but fine almost like clock work. I still had issues, but would have been more problematic with just a regular vise. Once drilled out, a heli coil fixed it along with a new threaded rod I made to replace the snapped one. Clay/Lexi

Quote from: Cadman-iac on December 28, 2024, 12:39:21 PMI can see it now, very nice tool. Thanks for the picture.

Quote from: TJ Hopland on December 28, 2024, 12:04:09 PMSo on those drill bits it does drill a reasonable depth hole.  With what I saw just casually searching it wasn't clear how deep they went.  The demo video I did watch it looked like it was just making a dent which was one reason I was confused why it seemed to be such a large assembly.

TJ and Cadmaniac. Here is a close up of the Hinge Bit business end, next to a typical Stanley brass hinge. Note the chamfered receiver hole in the hinge plate and the bevelled nose of the tool. The drill bit is spring loaded and is visible through the slot cut in the hinge bit's shaft. Pushing down on this I would guess that this drill bit protruded about 1/2 inch or more when fully compressed. More than enough for average wood screws in a hinge drilling operation or for metal bracket fabrication work. That 1/2" projection might be even more when one considers it also had to pass through the hinge plate itself, (another 1/8 inch perhaps?). Clay/Lexi

I got my two-way vice when I purchased my Drill Press in 1982.

Notice the bolt head sitting in an unusual position above the top adjusting screw?   Had to do a repair when I accidentally broke the casting by applying too much pressure to the vice many years ago.   Inserted the Bolt into the position slider rod, and still keeps everything together.

I got a standard vice with the press, but have never had to use it.

Bruce. >:D 

Once you use a compound vise, there is little incentive to go back to using a regular type vise, at least on a drill press. The compound device is basically a drill press tool. Clay/Lexi

I got a mill so I never got a drill press but after looking at what a mill cost these days I see where one of those tables is much more practical for a DIY person.  A clapped out Bridgeport cost what an elcheapo does so only advantage to an elcheapo is a DIYer can actually move one and may have the space for one.  I do see 20+ year old drill presses that look pretty decent pretty cheap and those tables are not that expensive so for like $500 you can have a pretty flexible setup. WIth a drill press you don't have to invest way more than the machine cost for basic tooling.

Quote from: Lexi on December 28, 2024, 12:49:25 PMLong story short, this is a shot of the 8 inch Cross Vise in action. Clamped is a Cadillac carburetor with a broken, stuck air cleaner mounting rod. As the rod is steel and the carburetor is zinc alloy/pot metal, this creates lots of problems. I needed the mass of the large vise as well as the fine increment carriage adjustments that it is capable of. Moving the carriage assembly is not sloppy and is very fine. Not like cranking a table saw blade up or down, but fine almost like clock work. I still had issues, but would have been more problematic with just a regular vise. Once drilled out, a heli coil fixed it along with a new threaded rod I made to replace the snapped one. Clay/Lexi

Clay, I had to have my 54 Carter welded where the aircleaner stud went in. The man that TIG welded it for me said he had never worked on such pure aluminium. He said new aluminium has more impurities in it as it has been recycled many times. It's not pot metal!
Also, at risk of being a smart ass, if you'd used a left handed drill bit it probably would have unscrewed that stud.
Phil

Quote from: PHIL WHYTE CLC 14192 on December 29, 2024, 03:17:56 AMClay, I had to have my 54 Carter welded where the aircleaner stud went in. The man that TIG welded it for me said he had never worked on such pure aluminium. He said new aluminium has more impurities in it as it has been recycled many times. It's not pot metal!
Also, at risk of being a smart ass, if you'd used a left handed drill bit it probably would have unscrewed that stud.
Phil

Hello Phil. After typing I thought about that and should have changed it. Thanks for keeping the info accurate. I was not aware that they were comprised of such a pure aluminum though. The rod however, was not possible to unscrew. All attempts failed, with the last resulting in the rod actually snapping off at the top of the carburetor. Hence the need to drill it out. Something I wanted to avoid, as that raised many separate issues. The clearance between the bit and the edge of the aluminum was negligible. Like a neck in a collar, to use an analogy. Eveerything had to be dead center and perpendicular. Bit wanted to "walk"once it became more fully extended deep into the carburetor shaft due to flexing. As I was drilling out both steel and some aluminum, I also think the steel kept causing the bit to veer off course and flex in the process. At the very end it did break through the thin skinned aluminum wall, but is above the carb jet action and above where the heli-coil eventually would go. So a dab of JB Weld patched this tiny hole. Glad to have had the cross vise for this one. Clay/Lexi

Another oddity, but one that has come in useful. A machinist's high quality depth gauge; when you need precision. Made by one of the best, Brown and Sharpe. Clay/Lexi

Quote from: Lexi on December 29, 2024, 10:31:49 AMHello Phil. After typing I thought about that and should have changed it. Thanks for keeping the info accurate. I was not aware that they were comprised of such a pure aluminum though. The rod however, was not possible to unscrew. All attempts failed, with the last resulting in the rod actually snapping off at the top of the carburetor. Hence the need to drill it out. Something I wanted to avoid, as that raised many separate issues. The clearance between the bit and the edge of the aluminum was negligible. Like a neck in a collar, to use an analogy. Eveerything had to be dead center and perpendicular. Bit wanted to "walk"once it became more fully extended deep into the carburetor shaft due to flexing. As I was drilling out both steel and some aluminum, I also think the steel kept causing the bit to veer off course and flex in the process. At the very end it did break through the thin skinned aluminum wall, but is above the carb jet action and above where the heli-coil eventually would go. So a dab of JB Weld patched this tiny hole. Glad to have had the cross vise for this one. Clay/Lexi

After I wrote my post I realised that there would be more to the story, thanks for explaining. If I understand you correctly you had tried a lot of ways to remove it and it snapped? Out of interest did you try heat? A welder I worked with would weld a bar to the top of a seized stud and use it as a handle to undo it. The heat of the welding would loosen it.

Quote from: PHIL WHYTE CLC 14192 on December 29, 2024, 06:52:45 PMAfter I wrote my post I realised that there would be more to the story, thanks for explaining. If I understand you correctly you had tried a lot of ways to remove it and it snapped? Out of interest did you try heat? A welder I worked with would weld a bar to the top of a seized stud and use it as a handle to undo it. The heat of the welding would loosen it.

I did not try heat, though in retrospect, I could have tried that first and borrowed my son-in-law's induction coil, or used my torch. The stud was JB welded in place and it's melting point is only about 60 degrees shy of aluminum if memory serves. Some people have even used it to repair engine block cracks. It is also rather impervious to chemical attack. So, I was worried about distortion especially as JBW is also heat resistant, so rightly or wrongly, flame or coil heat was going to be my last chance choice. Prior to trying heat, I clamped the rod into the biggest bench vise I had and worked it back and forth by hand, by using the carb as the turning handle, so to speak. Tons of torque. All that did was snap off the rod which then reduced my options including heat. Had that not happened, I would have used some heat, but the rod was broken off, level with the top of the aluminum. I don't think it was a good candidate to weld a piece to as I probably would have damaged the aluminum carb core that it was stuck in. Generally, that is a good option, but was negated this time not only by breaking but where it broke. It was not a good day. It was one of those times where you get so screwed, you hardly even cuss it out. Just depressing.

The drilling took about 4 hours spread out over 2 days. In the end, my mistake as I should have thought out the procedure better and tried heat first. Nothing even budged it. Doing anything like this again, lesson learned; try at least some heat first, as you suggested, (which most of the time I do). Learned my lesson, (again), and next job was tearing down a spare front bumper clip. Lots of stubborn 70 year old rusted fasteners. Brough on the heat and my son-in-law's induction coil. At the end even used some of those half sized sockets I wrote about earlier. Borrowed those. I was so impressed, that Santa got me a set for Christmas, (see earlier post for a picture of them). Still plagued by horrific carburetor nightmares and how I almost ruined a piece of  virutal unobtainium. 2024 was not a good year in so many ways. Clay/Lexi

 Hey Clay,

 Did you ever consider taking the carburetor apart to expose the rod? If I remember correctly, you can take the top (air horn) off of the bowl assembly which would give you something like an inch or so of the rod to try the other remedies such as heat.
 I don't remember if that stud/rod threads into the bowl or if it went through to the base assembly (throttle body), but I do know it only passes through the air horn.
 Not that you will ever have to deal with this issue again, but if it does happen again, you can try this before resorting to the drill press.

 Glad you got it out without causing damage to the carburetor.

 Rick

Quote from: Cadman-iac on December 29, 2024, 09:15:07 PMHey Clay,

 Did you ever consider taking the carburetor apart to expose the rod? If I remember correctly, you can take the top (air horn) off of the bowl assembly which would give you something like an inch or so of the rod to try the other remedies such as heat.
 I don't remember if that stud/rod threads into the bowl or if it went through to the base assembly (throttle body), but I do know it only passes through the air horn.
 Not that you will ever have to deal with this issue again, but if it does happen again, you can try this before resorting to the drill press.

 Glad you got it out without causing damage to the carburetor.

 Rick

The epoxy was not only at the bottom end of the threaded base but up the stem around the rod. So, it had effectively bonded the rod not only to the lower carb but also to the top. It could not come apart as both sections were bonded together. As usual, you are extremely astute Cadman-iac, as under normal circumstances one would be able to separate the two halfs, thus revealing more rod to work with as you suggested. But not in this case.  :'(  I also looked at my Rochester parts supply and determined that the rod ends within the aluminum carburetor bowl, and not in the cast iron base. Trying to think back, but even if I had been able to remove the cast iron base, it would not have helped. At any rate, my only choice was to engage in what was probably the most delicate and nerve wracking drilling operation of my life. Again, glad I had my large cross vise with it's wide enough throat to hold this carburetor. As they say, "Go big or go home". Clay/Lexi

  That really sucks, who would have been so blind as to JBW that rod in and basically welding the whole carburetor together.
 You couldn't rebuild that if you had to! If you hadn't been able to drill it out that would have become a really cool, but absolutely worthless paperweight.
 I take it that you bought it that way?

 Rick

Quote from: Lexi on December 29, 2024, 07:25:40 PMI did not try heat, though in retrospect, I could have tried that first and borrowed my son-in-law's induction coil, or used my torch. The stud was JB welded in place and it's melting point is only about 60 degrees shy of aluminum if memory serves. Some people have even used it to repair engine block cracks. It is also rather impervious to chemical attack. So, I was worried about distortion especially as JBW is also heat resistant, so rightly or wrongly, flame or coil heat was going to be my last chance choice. Prior to trying heat, I clamped the rod into the biggest bench vise I had and worked it back and forth by hand, by using the carb as the turning handle, so to speak. Tons of torque. All that did was snap off the rod which then reduced my options including heat. Had that not happened, I would have used some heat, but the rod was broken off, level with the top of the aluminum. I don't think it was a good candidate to weld a piece to as I probably would have damaged the aluminum carb core that it was stuck in. Generally, that is a good option, but was negated this time not only by breaking but where it broke. It was not a good day. It was one of those times where you get so screwed, you hardly even cuss it out. Just depressing.

The drilling took about 4 hours spread out over 2 days. In the end, my mistake as I should have thought out the procedure better and tried heat first. Nothing even budged it. Doing anything like this again, lesson learned; try at least some heat first, as you suggested, (which most of the time I do). Learned my lesson, (again), and next job was tearing down a spare front bumper clip. Lots of stubborn 70 year old rusted fasteners. Brough on the heat and my son-in-law's induction coil. At the end even used some of those half sized sockets I wrote about earlier. Borrowed those. I was so impressed, that Santa got me a set for Christmas, (see earlier post for a picture of them). Still plagued by horrific carburetor nightmares and how I almost ruined a piece of  virutal unobtainium. 2024 was not a good year in so many ways. Clay/Lexi

As we say here in England, you were on a hiding to nothing with the stud stuck in with JB weld. A good advert for the product though! Phil

Here is another, of what I think will be a useful tool, especially for owners of vintage cars that are equipped with drum brakes. Gear Wrench has produced a tool that they call a "Brake Resetting Gauge", (#GW 3377). It is designed to assist in the adjustment of brake shoe-drum clearance. It is soley designed for this use, so I am assuming that it should yield good results.

With the drum off the car, you insert the inside caliper part of the gauge to get a profile measurement of the wear portion of the drum. Then lock the gauge using the lock nut. Next, using the outside portion of the gauge, place over the shoes to check for clearance. Should there be any, then adjust your star wheel to narrow the gap so that there is only a slight bit of contact between the drum and shoe.

This process transfers the measurement to ensure accuracy.

Works with drum sizes measuring from 6.5 inches to 14.25 inches, so good for our Cadillacs and I would assume some trucks as well. I assume this is an inner diameter spec. My 1956 drum specification as I recall is stated at 12 inches, and not to exceed. So this set is designed to be well within that range.

I just picked up this tool and have not had a chance to use it. If anyone has experience with this type of gauge, perhaps they could provide some comments? Blue Point (Snap On), has one, which appears to be a re-branded version of this tool. My Gear Wrench version appears to be well made, and has the updated sharps on the inside. This GW unit looks a lot like, if not exactly like the Blue Point example that I have seen.

This would work best on freshly turned drums, but I imagine could be applied to any used brake equipment. Images attached show the tool as well as the packaging with instructions. My son-in-law picked it up for me. He is a trained mechanic, and was introduced to this tool only recently as one of his mechanics in the shop that he manages, uses this same tool. He got to use it and like his mechanic, swears by it. Only deviance from the instructions is that the mechanic said when applied to the inside, first present the tool at a 45 degree angle, then straighten out to obtain your reading. Seems that using inside the drum first is the way to go.

Any comments? Again, this is one that I have yet to use but eagerly await trying it out. Clay/Lexi

A fellow member triggered my response in another thread, where I thought this self priming siphon pump would come in handy. Attached are some of my comments on this tool:

...rather than having to start your car during the winter to burn some gas off, I can think of an alternative. There are a number of gasoline siphon/extracation tools available. The best would probably be one of those straight siphon tubes that are equipped with a copper manifold that is loaded with a ball bearing. You simply insert the flexible clear tube into the gas filler neck and push it down into the fuel. Then vigoresly shake the tube up and down which creates a temporary vacuum leading to a pressure differential at either end of the line. This triggers the the flow of gas through the tube. The secret behind this tool is that it is in reality a self priming pump, (caused by your shaking the line). Have it empty into a suitable container with enough room to accept the flow of fuel. Once it begins it flows quite fast, and you can stop shaking the tube and let it continue to siphon on it's own. This way, you don't get a mouthful of gasoline (as that technique is not required here), and you don't have to start your car in the frigid cold. Not good for our aging engines. Should probably add this to the tools we never heard of thread that TJ started. Clay/Lexi

And yes, I have one of these, (a couple actually), and they work quite well. It can be tricky to get them to start, but once the flow begins it is very rapid. Clay/Lexi

I have seen those brake calipers and thought they may be handy for pre adjusting shoes before you assemble things especially if its like a truck where the drums weigh a ton and don't just slide over studs.  You can waste a lot of time adjusting those one click at a time through the slot. 

I have also seen those rattle siphon deals but always heard they don't really work especially in the context of gas and cars that tend to have some sort of filler neck compared to say other equipment where the cap is often directly on the tank itself.  Maybe I will just have to give em a try.  One concern these days is what do they make the hose out of?  I suspect many that are available today are not going to be the right combination of flexibility and resistance to common fluids so its either going to be too stiff to work out of the box or get stiff after its first use?

I have two of those siphon tubes.   3/4" and 1".   The smaller one for decanting Jerry Cans into my cars when required, simply because the neck that fits the can leaks.

The problem with modern cars is that they have smaller orifices in the factory filler pipes, and flaps that have to be pushed in by the filling pipe to get fuel in.   I lent one to a friend and they lost the brass end inside the tank as the trap dor caught the end as he tried to pull it out.

The hose construction is plastic, and I have had mine for many years, and they are still very pliable, with no signs of deterioration.

When filling from a can, the secret is to not let the "jiggler" actually sit on the bottom of the container as it will pick up anything that is laying on the bottom.   One of my Jerry Cans is starting to lose its internal paint, and I have seen flakes of paint getting trapped in the bottom of the glass ball.   At least, with the clear plastic tube, one can see if there is any contaminant getting transferred, and can stop the flow.

Bruce. >:D

Bruce is correct in that gas filler necks in late model vehicles often do not accept such siphoning systems due to the filler flap. My Ford mechanic buddy said vehicles regularly come in for repair where someone used an improperly sized tube, funnel end, siphon or whatever, to add or extract fuel from a late model vehicle. Sometimes the unit gets stuck in the flap portion of the top of the filler neck opening and other times things break and fall inside the tank. The flap acts sort of like a barb or a hooked tooth of a predatory reptile as it does not permit movement of certain objects in reverse-once the flap has been depressed. Not good.

I recall that a salesman told me these were deseigned to discourage theft of fuel by siphoning. It is imperative to use the fill nozzle that Ford for example, provides for proper access to that port. Modern gas pump nozzles are not impacted by this "anti-theft" mechanism. Another Ford employee advised that Ford racing developed it years ago.

Regardless, my comments were directed at vintage Cadillac filler necks where this will not be a problem due to the diameter & design of the filler neck opening. Clay/Lexi

Hi Clay,

What brand is that siphon tool? 

Thanks.

Quote from: J. Skelly on January 31, 2025, 09:57:43 AMHi Clay,

What brand is that siphon tool? 

Thanks.

I will check to see if a name is on them, but I don't think there is much if anything on the product. The packaging I have long since discarded. One I bought at a car show/swap meet and don't think it was even wrapped. The other I think I got at a box store. Will have a look and follow up in this thread. Clay/Lexi

I purchased mine at a Farming trade fair.   No brand, they were just hanging on the wall of the venue.

Bruce. >:D

Purchased mine in much the same way, from a pile of them on display at the Daytona Turkey Rod Run several years ago.  No name on them, the seller had one working all the time transferring water from one bucket to another and then back again.  Have used mine on several occasions over the years and as some would say, "it works a treat!"    ;D

My guess is those are one of those things that was invented and or patented and a quality product that was made my the same company for many years then the patent expired and or they quit defending it so now if you buy one you never know what you are going to get especially when it comes to the hose material.   

The hose on mine and others I continue to see at shows are heavy clear plastic as shown in the picture in post #86 above.  Have never had to replace mine, but Lowes and Home Depot sell it in various sizes by the foot off huge rolls.

Fortunately, no hose issues with either of mine so far. Both have siphoned a lot of gasoline. When I get to my storage tomorrow I will look for a name on them. But the one I bought from the swap meet I recall was just loose with a bunch of others that the vendor had purchased in bulk. The other one I think came from a box store with very non-descript packaging. That was a while back and can't rule out it also came from a show, but I seem to recall that it at least was in some sort of packaging. Should have mentioned, but once the flow starts it is quite rapid so you must be prepared to quickly halt the siphon action. This is done as with a regular siphon by lifting the container with the siphoned fluid to a level equal to or greater than that of what you are siphoning or by pulling the hose out of the host reservoir container. I suppose you could insert an inline valve with a shut off also, (like a ball check valve type). Both of mine have clear hoses, so you can easily see when fluid is moving through them. When that occurs there is also an audible sound made by the ball bearing valve jumping around as caused by the rush of fluid moving past it.  Clay/Lexi

  I was in town today and stopped by Horrible Fright, (harbor freight) for a couple of things and saw that they had these siphon hoses for $12.00 so I got one to replace the almost worn-out pump I've been using the last 15 years.
 Haven't tried it yet, so don't know if it'll work out or not, but thanks for posting on this one.

 Rick

Quote from: Cadman-iac on February 01, 2025, 12:22:16 AMI was in town today and stopped by Horrible Fright, (harbor freight) for a couple of things and saw that they had these siphon hoses for $12.00 so I got one to replace the almost worn-out pump I've been using the last 15 years.
 Haven't tried it yet, so don't know if it'll work out or not, but thanks for posting on this one.

 Rick

The best thing about these jigglers is that you do not have to suck on them, so the mouth stays well away from the fuel.

Bruce. >:D

Before I pull my 59 headlight switch out with fog lamps the manual calls for a tool? 

Quote from: Cadillac Jack 82 on February 01, 2025, 03:05:35 AMBefore I pull my 59 headlight switch out with fog lamps the manual calls for a tool? 

You got me on that one. Short of pulling my '59 manual, I figure that is not necessary as you have one and still have concerns.

My car is a 1956 model, but perhaps there are some similarities as my car also has the optional fog lights. With that in mind, I wonder if the tool you saw mentioned is one required to remove the lock down threaded bezel on the dash side? If memory is correct, mine is notched with a pair of tiny slots at 12 and 6 o'clock. Looks like a special tool is required to insert into those notches in order to remove the threaded bezel. At least that is how my '56 is. Similar set up also with the ignition switch bezel. Some antenna and wiper related hold down hardware is also like that. They are notched similarly as well. I just use a very small slot headed screwdriver inserted into one of the notches, then gently tap with a jeweler's brass hammer to apply force to loosen. That could be what they are refering to.

If your '59 is like my '56, the "fog box" part of the headlight switch assembly is close to the dash, on the inside. Closer than the rest of the headlight switch assembly. So perhaps Cadillac made additional provision to secure all by 1959? Maybe on fog light equipped cars a different threaded bezel nut was used as opposed to non-fog light equipped cars?

At the back of the section you are looking at, they usually have photos of the specialty tools required as described in that chapter. Check to see if a description or photo of the tool is there. They may also be referring to some other tool that I am unaware of. I am not familiar with the '59 headlight switch, so these are my speculative "guesses". Clay/Lexi

                                   

                                      SNAP-ON 640 COIL/CONDENSER TESTER

The best troubleshooting tool for testing copper wound coils and condensers. I have one and I would buy coils of unknown condition at swap meets, especially the armored type, when they were fairly common. Extremely hard to find today.

 I'd guess three quarters tested good. I sold all the good ones after application of Krylon Rebuild in Can. Never had to buy one back.  I kept a couple for my prewar and early post war cars.

I ripped this photo from one on eBay today. It's still listed and bidding is at $32.

Quote from: J. Skelly on January 31, 2025, 09:57:43 AMHi Clay,

What brand is that siphon tool? 

Thanks.

Hey Jim, the oldest one has the name "FLOWTOOL" stamped on the copper manifold. The newer one says "SIMPLE SIPHON", but otherwise both manifolds appear to be the same, and both are loaded with what appear to be glass marble ball bearings. Both manifolds are made of copper, guessing to elimnate sparking. Clay/Lexi

The siphon tube is available on Amazon for a low as $4.99.

Gene
 

Quote from: Lexi on February 01, 2025, 03:46:39 PMHey Jim, the oldest one has the name "FLOWTOOL" stamped on the copper manifold. The newer one says "SIMPLE SIPHON", but otherwise both manifolds appear to be the same, and both are loaded with what appear to be glass marble ball bearings. Both manifolds are made of copper, guessing to elimnate sparking. Clay/Lexi

thanks, Clay!

                             SUN Battery / Starter tester


This unit will load test a battery to 300 amps using a carbon pile rheostat.

Say you have a battery that is slow turning your engine over after sitting for a week or so. You check the specific gravity and it's OK so you use your Dayton or Amazon battery load tester. It tests OK. So off to O'Reilly's or Autozone and they use the latest and greatest digital test equipment and they say it's OK, just charge it. So you do and still not 100%.

By using a tester like this you can load up the battery to the maximum starter plus all electrical accessories,usually around 250 amps for a big V8, it will show any weakness or shorting. If the battery voltage slowly drops below about 4.8  volts for six volt batteries or 9 volts for a twelve volt do a cell drop test.

  It has a voltage scale that reads in tenths of volts.  All you do is open the caps or blocks on the battery. Probe either the negative or positive terminal and using a wire clamped to the tester lead probe each cell. Don't let the probe touch the lead. Each cell should read two volts, minus one tenth for a fully charged battery.  Anything less than 1.8 volts indicates a failing cell. Three or four tenths the cell is about to fail.

Only downside, it is bulky and has heavy leads. Typically they were mounted on a cart.


                           New Way Valve Seat cutter

THis is for those of us do our own valve jobs, especially on the valve in block engines. It works for valve in head applications too. First off the kit is expensive, however you can get the cutters, handle and pilots ala carte. Each head has two sets, 45*/30* of cutters. All that is needed is a 60 degree and you can adjust the distance from the margin and the width of the seats. The pilot come in standard and oversize dimensions.

Grinding the valves in a valve in block engine you have several choices, borrow a Sioux grinder, pilots and stones, hoping they are accurately dressed, hire a mobile machinist and have him do it, pull the engine and take it to a machine shop. Except for the first option it will be expensive.

The pieces you need for the 346/322 engines will probably run $250-$300 max. A lot right? Most machine shops in my area are charging $150/$165 hr. It's going to take at least an hour to wrestle the block into position, get the tooling and start the job. THen there is the actual grinding operation. Even at one bore every five minutes the time and money add up quickly.  Most shops will charge a minimum of one hour up to an hour and a half just to gauge and grind your valves. When you finish grinding the seats yourself you can sell the New Way set for half of what you paid for it.

The heads have adjustable carbide cutters which leave a very fine finish if the cutter is used properly. It's not difficult.   


                                        FLEX-Hone Finishing hone.

The humble dingle ball hone. Ideal for breaking the glaze on cylinder walls and reestablishing a crosshatched finish identical to that of the unworn area at the bottom of the cylinder bore. It also does an excellent job of getting the area close to the edge of any ring ridge left at the top of the bore. Many automotive machinists use the ball hones to finish the surfaces of freshly bored cylinders.

 This is not the case for maximum output race car engines like an F1 engines turning 16,000rpm. Same for Rousch and Hendrick engines running 8900rpm for the best part of the Southern 500 mile NASCAR race. Those engine builders use diamond or Cubic Boron Nitride cutters digital surface gauges to get the desired finish.

IIRC the manufacturer suggests not using oil but most guys use WD40, my choice, or clear cutting oil. I tried both ways and didn't notice any difference.

My choice is 320 grit run with a drill at around 500rpm.It's been my experience about twenty strokes at one per second works the best. I stop or keep at it  until the crosshatch looks like the factory finish at the unused area at the bottom of the bore. Even so it would take a Lonnnnnng time to alter the dimensions of the bore a few tenths of thousandths. I haven't used stones for years.

And.... they are available in sizes down to one inch for brake master and wheel cylinders

tony

 

Quote from: tcom2027 on February 01, 2025, 01:23:14 PMSNAP-ON 640 COIL/CONDENSER TESTER

The best troubleshooting tool for testing copper wound coils and condensers. I have one and I would buy coils of unknown condition at swap meets, especially the armored type, when they were fairly common. Extremely hard to find today.

 I'd guess three quarters tested good. I sold all the good ones after application of Krylon Rebuild in Can. Never had to buy one back.  I kept a couple for my prewar and early post war cars.

I ripped this photo from one on eBay today. It's still listed and bidding is at $32.

I have had that Snap-On #640 coil/condenser tester for many years, works great

Bob

Any guesses as to the purpose of this wrench?

Not sure, it could be for door hinges on some models.

If not made as a one off, (could be for anything), it rather appears to be a combination starter motor/distributor nut wrench. Usually the D wrenches have a much longer reach, so may probably be a variant of starter motor wrench. Clay/Lexi

Roger is right. It's a door adjuster. Bought a set 30 or so years ago and have never seen another one. But useful for many other hard to reach areas.

  Well I went to use this "jiggler" fuel siphoning tool and it doesn't work. I'm wondering if it is put together wrong.

 Is the marble supposed to be the first thing you see when you look in the end, or is it the spring? Mine has the marble first and I think it's backwards. Can anyone who has a working one tell me which way it's supposed to be?

 Thanks, Rick

The marble is the first thing you see.   If you can see the spring, then something is wrong.

You are putting the metal end of the hose into the container that is being drained?

Plus, the other end of the hose has to be lower than the container that is being drained.

Lastly, you are "jiggling" it correctly?

Bruce. >:D

  No, I put the hose into the can and shook the metal end. Putting the metal end in the can would probably make more sense. I can see the marble sealing the end that way. There wasn't any mention on the package as to which end went where and I had a 50/50 chance of getting it wrong. Guess I got it wrong, lol!!
 Thanks Bruce, I'll try it out the right way and see what happens. I appreciate the prompt response.
  Rick

You have to shake, or actually, plunge, lift and plunge and lift again till you see the liquid rising up the tube.   Once it is up and over the bend, and on down the other side, then it will start to flow all on its' own.

You will hear the marble rattling around the bottom of the metal piece when it is syphoning out.

Bruce. >:D

Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) on February 18, 2025, 12:17:04 AMLastly, you are "jiggling" it correctly?

Bruce. >:D

That sounds kinky. Let's stay on topic here, Bruce!  ;)

Bruce is correct. It can be a bit of a challenge to start, but once it starts it is like you have a pump connected to it. The tube has to be vigorously shaken for it to start. Clay/Lexi

Quote from: Big Fins on February 18, 2025, 06:02:07 AMThat sounds kinky. Let's stay on topic here, Bruce!  ;)

Sounds like a Southern Hemisphere thing. :)

Quote from: Cadman-iac on February 18, 2025, 12:30:26 AMNo, I put the hose into the can and shook the metal end. Putting the metal end in the can would probably make more sense. I can see the marble sealing the end that way. There wasn't any mention on the package as to which end went where and I had a 50/50 chance of getting it wrong. Guess I got it wrong, lol!!
 Thanks Bruce, I'll try it out the right way and see what happens. I appreciate the prompt response.
  Rick

Did you finally get it to work? Clay/Lexi

Quote from: Lexi on February 23, 2025, 09:57:37 AMDid you finally get it to work? Clay/Lexi

I haven't had occasion to use it since I posted that. When I have need of it again I'll let you know if I've managed to get it to work.

 Rick

Anyone know what this vintage tool is? It is about a foot long or a touch shorter. Does a job most Cadillac owners will eventually engage in, if they own a vintage ride. Clay/Lexi

It is actually a gasket cutter. Markings on one of the sides determine where to slide your cutters, then lock down. Probably best to fasten the gasket material with a staple gun so it doesn't move, determine center, then insert the sharpened pivot point, adjust the cutters using the markings on the bed rail, then cut away. Like using a compass. This one came with an extra spare cutter. Using the cast engine part you are making the gasket for as a template, you can trace the outer edge of the casting and cut that portion out by hand. The inner circular portion of objects are the hardest parts to copy, hence this cutter. Looking forward to making some carburetor to air cleaner gaskets, as one upcoming project. This is heavy duty and it is extremely sharp. Clay/Lexi

Replaced my front bumper clip with a newly chromed set a few days ago. It was then that I noted that my car's Gold Grille had been damaged in the past, with the result that it is "pushed back" 10 degrees by my measurement calculation. So I put on a spare silver grille for the time being, while I contemplate whether to repair my Gold one. Many of the horizontal bars have to be bent back 10 degrees, plus some of the vertical bars must be straightened. This has to be done so that the grille will sit flush against the bumper. I found a rusty metal bender that a shop had for sale. I cleaned it up and and oiled and greased all applicable moving parts. Rust remover and a combination of wire wheels removed most of the rust. It is ready to go. I hope I can get some repeatability in making exact repetitive bends to repair my grille.

Fortunately, all of the grille component "slats" are notched as it all fits together like a large jigsaw puzzle. These notches, or cut outs, will facilitate bending as there will be somewhere for the metal to go when reforming it. Not that it has to move far. Wish me luck. Perhaps a tool others can use to augment various fabrication projects and maybe even saving a trip to the body shop? Clay/Lexi

1) Overall shot
2) Close up of the business end

Quote from: Lexi on May 21, 2025, 07:15:21 PMReplaced my front bumper clip with a newly chromed set a few days ago. It was then that I noted that my car's Gold Grille had been damaged in the past, with the result that it is "pushed back" 10 degrees by my measurement calculation. So I put on a spare silver grille for the time being, while I contemplate whether to repair my Gold one. Many of the horizontal bars have to be bent back 10 degrees, plus some of the vertical bars must be straightened. This has to be done so that the grille will sit flush against the bumper. I found a rusty metal bender that a shop had for sale. I cleaned it up and and oiled and greased all applicable moving parts. Rust remover and a combination of wire wheels removed most of the rust. It is ready to go. I hope I can get some repeatability in making exact repetitive bends to repair my grille.

Fortunately, all of the grille component "slats" are notched as it all fits together like a large jigsaw puzzle. These notches, or cut outs, will facilitate bending as there will be somewhere for the metal to go when reforming it. Not that it has to move far. Wish me luck. Perhaps a tool others can use to augment various fabrication projects and maybe even saving a trip to the body shop? Clay/Lexi

1) Overall shot
2) Close up of the business end

I wonder who anodizes these grilles still?  I remember having a heck of a time with my 57 when I still had it.

Quote from: Cadillac Jack 82 on May 21, 2025, 07:40:26 PMI wonder who anodizes these grilles still?  I remember having a heck of a time with my 57 when I still had it.

I knew a couple of places, but they no longer do that kind of work. I did ask the chrome shop if they can anodize but I was informed that they don't do that work either. Clay/Lexi

Quote from: Cadillac Jack 82 on May 21, 2025, 07:40:26 PMI wonder who anodizes these grilles still?  I remember having a heck of a time with my 57 when I still had it.

Two possibilities in the Motor City:

https://www.mcnicholsanodizing.com/

https://decometalfinishing.com/classic-car-restoration-in-detroit-mi.html

Quote from: Tony Cometto on February 02, 2025, 11:24:53 PMSUN Battery / Starter tester


This unit will load test a battery to 300 amps using a carbon pile rheostat.


(snip)

tony

Hi Tony!

I collect old tune-up gear, especially Sun.  It is great to see an old BST still in use!  FWIW, I found yours in a Sun catalog dated June, 1952.  I have a slightly older version, but the resistor pack is broken to bits so it is non-functional.  Thanks for sharing!  Do you have any other old Sun gear?  Here is the catalog page:

bst_catalog.jpg

The CLC Museum have a few pieces of Sun equipment on display in their Service Bay similar to your ads.

All are still in working condition.