Looking for a pair of the engine bay firewall steel heater ducts . Rusty and crusty will be just fine.
Cheers
I may have a pair, but I'm not sure. During winter time, I don't go often to my store room; if you don't get another offer, I will check it in about one week.
There are some on eBay if you can't find any here.
Quote from: JungleCadd on December 18, 2024, 08:10:24 PMLooking for a pair of the engine bay firewall steel heater ducts . Rusty and crusty will be just fine.
Cheers
Should have a box or two of that & related stuff. Probably can't get to it until the spring, if time is not a factor or you locate sooner. A picture of exactly what you need may help and assist in me pin pointing and perhaps not waiting until spring. Not 100% sure based on your description of the part you need. Clay/Lexi
Had to go to my store room today. I have both units; the motor is running when connected to a battery. $ 50.00 each plus the ride.
They got some dust over the year, before to install them, I would grase the motor's shafts as there is some drag by turning the fan by hand.
I am under the impression these are what is being sought. From ebay - not mine.
firewall duct.jpg
Quote from: dn010 on December 23, 2024, 12:34:06 PMI am under the impression these are what is being sought. From ebay - not mine.
You may be right!
By the way, I still have a rusty one coming from my '56 Eldo. I could buy better parts at that time.
Quote from: dn010 on December 23, 2024, 12:34:06 PMI am under the impression these are what is being sought. From ebay - not mine.
firewall duct.jpg
Yup. That's what I'm after. Thanks for looking. I'm looking for some rusty crusty ones as I need to crater on the corners to fit around a transact motor. I have the originals all nicely Powder coated bit won't fit lol
Quote from: Roger Zimmermann on December 24, 2024, 02:48:57 AMYou may be right!
By the way, I still have a rusty one coming from my '56 Eldo. I could buy better parts at that time.
Thanks for checking Roger. I just need the boxes/covers but will need to modify physically so rusty is fine
Quote from: Lexi on December 20, 2024, 02:34:29 PMShould have a box or two of that & related stuff. Probably can't get to it until the spring, if time is not a factor or you locate sooner. A picture of exactly what you need may help and assist in me pin pointing and perhaps not waiting until spring. Not 100% sure based on your description of the part you need. Clay/Lexi
Clay. Just need the stuffing boxes. Like what the washer bottle bolts to. I need to cave in the corners to fit over my 425 transplant. The rust and crusty will be preferred.
Unfortunately, I dont' remember which side I have. Will have a look next time I'm in the store room...
What you're looking to do is this then. Here's what mine looks like right now.
20200115_144334.jpg
20200115_144456.jpg
The first one, (blue), is after I modified it to clear the 472 valve cover.
The second picture shows the original (green) one next to the modified one highlighting the difference.
I didn't want to modify the original one in case I, (or the next owner), decides to go back with the original engine.
I'm trying not to make any changes that can't be reversed if I want to go with the 365 at a later date.
Would love to see some pictures of your car. If you have any questions I'd be glad to help if I can, and if you're willing, can I ask you for advice if I run into a problem that you may have encountered already?
I've been sidetracked by other problems for a few years, but hoping to get back on mine next year.
Good luck with your project, sounds like it will be a lot of fun when finished.
Rick
Less certain that I have any of those blister-cowl units. Clay/Lexi
Went to the store room to bring the heater motors back and to take the air duct cover. At first glance, a bit rust; I suppose I had no intend to repair it if I could find solid ones.
You can have it for free, just the shipping may be costly; I have to check it.
Air duct cover 1.jpgAir duct cover 2.jpgAir duct cover.jpg
Cool! Thanks a lot Roger!! Your always so helpful & very much appreciated.
I'm amazed how quickly things get over here from your neck of the woods fairy priced ot seems.
Standing by cheers
Erik
Hey Rick!
Cool. ExCtly! Nice work man. Thanks for sharing that. Did you ball peen that or? Looks like no torch either. I might have to go a tad higher up but I'm anxious to give ot a whack.
Rn I've got leaky gear box. I think most of it is the pitman seal fingers crossed. I've got 7os Saginaw hosed to the original steering gear. Do you have power steering going?
Glad to give any advice I can just give me a nudge.
Wow, that's some wild looking door panel there.
Looks like you've got a great start on yours, mine isn't nearly as far along. I had to sideline it for a few years, but I'm dying to get back on it.
On my steering I used the newer Saginaw pump that goes with the 472, much better pump and easier to mount.
I have to figure out what lines I'm going to use, the return line is easy, but the pressure line might be a little difficult.
I swapped the gearbox for one out of a '72 since the bolt pattern is the same. 1956 was the first year they used that bolt pattern, but the gearbox was 1 year only I believe. Another reason to swap it out.
Screenshot_20241229-215748_Gallery.jpg
This is the only picture I have of the gearbox in the car. The lines I have were just being mocked up to see what I'd need. Plus I'm going with a Hydro-boost, so the lines have to feed it as well.
How are you doing your gas pedal linkage? Are you using the original setup?
Screenshot_20241229-215934_Gallery.jpg
I went with a '69-'72 linkage and pedal on mine. It mounts easily and sits high enough to be comfortable on your foot, and it clears everything in the engine bay. And it makes it all Cadillac.
I noticed your valve covers, are they taller than the stock ones? They look great, I'd like to get some like that.
As for how I bent the airbox, I think I just used a body hammer. I honestly don't remember. I'd have to take another look at it to see if it jars my memory. But the car is all wrapped up in tarps right now to keep it safe from the weather.
What did you do for a radiator? Looks like you have a cross-flow in it. How did you fit it? What modifications did you have to do to the core support?
We need to get together and compare notes!
Cool looking car, you're doing a great job on it. Wish I could see it in person.
Rick
Ah! I didn't realize they kept the same bolt pattern on to the 70's. That's good to know. The one year only stuff sucks on stuff like that. I have a similar box I got in the mail and was dubious but dragging on the follow up with supplier . 5691676 but Looks a lot like yours though.
I kept the gas pedal and just recently fabrimicated a bell crank of sorts using welding gusset tabs. It's pretty solid but not sure about the over all play but is semi adjustable.
I planted the radiator that came with the car. It came with block landed but no hook ups. You'll see I notched the frame to drop the rad in. Yanked the old rad frame out and fabbed an angle piece to land the hood latch frame and gravel pan to. It was fairly painless just had to chop up my powder coated gravel pan to make up for the drop. The cross members are just mocked up in structural steel rn 1-1/2 channel offset on the fenders with some square tube across. It latches up well and solid but will have fun with cleaning that up later,someday.
The cast covers are about 3,5" to the fins. What did you do for motor mounts?
So you're plumbing over to a hydro boost? I'm not super excited about the vacuum booster thinking about frame mount hydraulics and try to keep the brake pedal config.... still keep drums. Maybe disc's up front. Ibguess you can get hubs now that will keep the factory track width and still mount the kelsey hayes style wheels. Thays a few pay checks away tho
I had to repair the frame on mine where the previous owner had cut into each side for clearance for a cross-flow radiator.
I didn't like the looks of it and thought it would weaken the frame, so I welded in new pieces.
Screenshot_20241231-074011_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20241231-074149_Gallery.jpg
The rusty looking spots are the welds where I ground it smooth.
One thing that you should know about using a newer steering gearbox is that the original pitman arm, although it will fit onto the shaft, it does not clear the end of the box, and requires modification in order to use the new box.
I found this out the hard way. I needed to replace the stud on the arm anyway because it was worn, so I ended up cutting another one off about an inch longer than what I cut off of the one I was repairing, and to keep the steering geometry symmetrical I extended the idler arm as well.
I had to make my own motor mounts. I used the same mounting points on the engine, and I wanted to use the same location on the frame that the original one used. What I ended up with was this.
Screenshot_20241231-074056_Gallery.jpg
I'm not sure if I'm happy with it yet, gotta think about it some more.
I used a rubber disc from a 55-57 Chevrolet motor mount on both sides of the frame. It's not easy to get the bottom pieces in place because of the tight space in the frame, as I'm sure you are familiar with.
You can see my modified oil pan in the picture too. I started with an Eldorado pan, but it didn't clear the steering linkage, and I wasn't happy with the notch in the side that the factory put in it for cleaning the Eldorado differential.
What I finally ended up doing was taking a regular 1977 rear sump pan and modifying it to fit.
Using a MIG welder because I don't have a TIG, it was a bit tricky to make sure it didn't leak.
Rick
Aw dang to good to be true. Thanks for the heads up! I'll keep that in mind when I get all the linkage freshened up. I guess there was a guy out in desert hot springs that did a rack/ pinion setup on 62's but ibthink he's long gone.
I think you can see my bucthered motor mounts they are a little unlikely unfortunately. Ibthink I'm sitting a little higher than you still not sure if I can get the pan out yet.
I tried the endoscope last night but was hard to make much out. Gonna try to wiggle it around this weekend. Not sure what pan I have I don't think eldo. Maybe 425 Deville? Have no idea.
Have you figured out the horn ring gasket ground isolation?
Also how did you mount that ground strap that bolts to the rag joint? Is that for ground continuity or just radio static ?
From the look of the top of your oil pan, it appears to be the (as near as possible) rear sump pan from a 77-79 425. Those didn't drop straight down from the rear main cap, but rolled forward slightly before dropping to the sump. That's what I used the sump from on mine, but I don't remember what I used for the top now. I'll have to look at it again and see if it jars my memory.
Not sure I'd trust a rack and pinion on such a heavy car. Plus, how would you even mount it?
The biggest problem with the newer Saginaw box is the shape of the original 56 pitman arm and that the center link sits on top of it instead of under it like the newer box was designed for.
But stretching the pitman arm fixes that issue.
I haven't put the column in yet, I was still working out the engine fitment and the Hydro-boost and related plumbing when I had to halt work on it.
The wire from the column to the box is your ground circuit if I remember correctly. I'd have to take another look at the schematic.
I don't know yet if the column will fit with the new steering box, I think it will, but until I test fit it I won't know for sure.
I'm definitely using the original column though, I want that gorgeous steering wheel and horn ring in it.
I did have to modify the shift detent for the TH400. That was a bit of work to get right.
I used a piece of pipe and cut it into the right shape so the shift tube will lock into it in the right pattern, PRNDL2L1, instead of PNDLR.
I still need to figure out what to do about the shift indicator on the cluster. The needle is no problem, it's the lens and lettering.
I couldn't see your motor mounts in any of your pictures. What did you use?
I wanted to use the ones from the 77-79, as they used a typical GM clamshell type mount fitted to the Cadillac brackets. But it was too big, and I didn't want to modify the frame too much.
Rick
ok maybe it is the stock pan? it looks chopped right?
hopefully i can get it yanked this weekend.
I'll get some better shots of the motor mounts but its pretty brutal. i think the frame is notched and plate is tacked in.
I've got PRNDL12 going mcmaster carr has all the threaded rod fittings,clevises, ball joints and stuff for the linkage shift/gas. still havent been able to find the bracket that attaches the shift pointer been looking for forever. also still have get some plexi routed out for PRNDL like you said. for the Speed display i gouged out all the paint and repacked it with glow in the dark UV activated paint and buried UV LED behind the cluster so i can kill the instrument display lights after the paint is charged and only the speed range and needle glow lol. plan to do same with shift indicator.
i agree column is sweet and wheel is nice as well really looking forward top getting the wheel spanked soon.
i tore apart the column and rebuilt the ground ring that had disintegrated that connects the horn wire to the Neutral Saftey Switch but now i lost continuity after installation. bummer. i think cadville has them new but probably 300 bones lol. i think i ground out some copper pipe for that
ive got micro switch mounted on tranny pan for reverse and a toggle switch to starter for lock out right now.
just hooked up a four pole relay that i ran to the all the turn signals and pulls from the flasher from a toggle switch so i have hazard lights now.
not sure how the rack steering system would work have seen in in a few discussions i think in the lasalle forum.
I had a whole reply ready to post but I was logged out when I hit post. I don't know how that happened, as the normal screen was still showing up til then. That's the second time it's happened too.
Anyway, I think your pan was modified, I just can't tell what they used to start with as your pictures won't expand enough on my phone.
I like your idea of using the glowing paint on the lens numbers. Pretty cool.
I haven't tried to install the column on mine yet. Not sure what it'll take to hook up with the gear box, and no idea yet on the shift linkage.
I had to stop working on it to do some other more pressing things, and I just haven't gotten back to it yet. Still working on the daily driver right now.
Every car needs 4 way flashers. I used an aftermarket unit and when I made the new wiring harnesses I incorporated it into them. I think the knob blinks when you pull it out to turn it on. Gotta look at it again to refresh my memory.
I honestly can't remember what I did for a neutral safety switch. That's another thing I'll have to look at.
I did a lot of this before I got my smartphone, so I didn't get pictures of a bunch of things.
I went through all the electric motors and rewired them, heaters, windows, air conditioning blowers, and even found an electric wiper motor from a Chevrolet. But now I'm not sure I'll be able to use it because of the air cleaner clearance. I didn't realize it sat so close to the firewall. I might have to rebuild a vacuum motor for it.
I found a couple articles on putting a 472/500/425 into a 50's Cadillac. I'll have to see if I have a link for them somewhere. I've also got a few magazine articles on the same subject.
The problem is that nobody shows all the things you have to do to get one to fit. Or they don't explain it very well. And none have enough pictures.
Rick
Edit: your pan almost looks like they made the bottom angle one way or the other, I can't see the whole thing to know which way it goes.
Can you post some pictures from the side that shows more of it?
Here's what I did for a neutral safety switch. I used a 55 horn contact in place of the original 56 because it's a stand-alone contact, and I modified the column outer housing for a later model switch, and I made a hole in the shift tube so it would rotate with the shifter.
20250111_184334.jpg
You can see the retainer clip from the 55 for the contact to keep it aligned in the hole, that's the one under the contact, and the bracket I had to make to keep it from coming out.
I used a late 60's/ early 70's safety switch, and it's got an extra set of contacts on it. I forget what those were for originally, and I don't remember if I had wired anything to it on the new harness. I won't know that until I'm ready to put it back together.
Here's the spare column from the parts car.20250111_184352.jpg
I mentioned earlier that I thought I had modified it as well, but after looking at it tonight I can tell it's all original, I just rebuilt it and painted it. Plus I had taped a note to it with the shift pattern on it, it's original. You can see the original style neutral safety switch with the horn contact incorporated into it.
I think I had to use the newer switch on the modified column because the original switch was broken.
I had to use a flashlight to get the pictures so I hope you can see the details.
Rick
Quote from: JungleCadd on December 29, 2024, 10:46:39 PMCool! Thanks a lot Roger!! Your always so helpful & very much appreciated.
Erik, do you want it or not? I also still have the seat nut you were once interested...
I don't mind if you don't want both parts, I just like to know.
Oh. That crossed my mind yoirs looks good!. If i come across a used NSS thats toast ill see if i can reconfigure the contacts.
Im still messing with the oil pan. It's definitely not going anywhere with the steering linkage in yhe way and may not w/o. Cant tell for sure. Wrestling with the pitman nut hoping to break it loose this week. I took a peak inside and think I might have found where there might be rubbage. Looks like the rusted spots. Pick up is pretty firmly landed. Not sure if ibdumped those screws in the sump or not lol
Think about electric wipers also but my vacuum good and have the real-estate.
Looks like I'll have to notch out the air hoods I won't be able to get them out unless I can lift the cast covers over the valve train lol. Shouldn't be too bad though.
Quote from: Roger Zimmermann on January 19, 2025, 03:10:46 AMErik, do you want it or not? I also still have the seat nut you were once interested...
I don't mind if you don't want both parts, I just like to know.
ROGER ! sorry ive got another pair of the hoods I am mangling right now. Thanks again for your generous offer - that was quite kind and i humbly appologize for my short attention span. I would love to have the seat nut! Just let me know the damage.
No problem, Erik! I just like to know if I had to keep the part in my garage at home or if I could take it back to my store room.
The solenoid is at home; I offered it to you for $ 40.00 plus shipping. I'm sending a PM to you about that.
So why exactly are you dropping the oil pan?
It's definitely been reworked, very obvious on the inside. It still looks to me like the bottom of the pan slopes downward toward the rear in your picture. Does it, or is it just the way the picture was taken?
Quote from: Cadman-iac on January 22, 2025, 09:59:14 PMSo why exactly are you dropping the oil pan?
It's definitely been reworked, very obvious on the inside. It still looks to me like the bottom of the pan slopes downward toward the rear in your picture. Does it, or is it just the way the picture was taken?
well ive got a pronounced thumping that i can feel at the back of the pan - hoping its interference with the rotating assembly rather than a spun bearing or what have you. i think maybe a connecting rod is nailing the side of the pan where the rust spots are running vertically. its definitely sloped to the back. i dont have much wiggle room to get the pan over away from the passenger side so i was hoping to get it on the bench and see if i could ding that area out away from the rod. i may just bolt it back and see if the sound changed.
If your engine has sat unused for a long time before you installed it in this car, the wrist pins may be dry now. They don't have a pressurized oil source, just whatever gets splashed up there while it runs.
I've had 2 engines develop a knock from just sitting, a 472 and a 425. I think part of the problem was not driving them but just running them in the yard. They don't get the high speed oil splashed up onto the pins, and after running at slower speeds they eventually wear to the point of knocking.
So if you're not going to be able to actually drive the car if you run it, at least run it at higher rpms to get the oil up to the pins.
I haven't pulled the 425 out yet, so I can't say for sure that's the problem, but the 472 is the test engine I'm using for making the motor mounts and oil pan in my 56.
Once I pull it out to install the engine I'm going to use, I'll tear it down and find out what was making it knock.
You mentioned that you thought that a rod was hitting the pan, but it would leave a nice shiny spot on the pan, not a dark mark.
I hope you find the source of the knock, it's a real shame to hear that. Best of luck to you.
Rick