Hi All!
I want to tell you about my Cadillac
I always wanted a 1959 Cadillac. Before, I had 1960, 1968, 1975 Cadillacs. But 1959 is my favorite!
In May 2021, I decided it was time to get a 59 Cadillac. I found the car on Instagram. It took 8 months to deliver from Los Angeles to Arkhangelsk (Russia). In February 2022, the car arrived.
The car has always been in California
The car was in good condition, running. For a perfect exterior, it needed painting. The chrome elements are in excellent condition. The body is solid, without corrosion. The front fenders had rust at the bottom. The car was repainted once. All the glass is original and in good condition. The interior is original, except for the seat upholstery, the seats are re-upholstered with a copy of the original from SMS fabrik. The dash pad is original without cracks. The horn ring is original and in good condition.
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It took 4 months to prepare the car daily driving. After driving for only 2 months. The transmission broke.
The reason is 2 rubber rings.
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The rubber rings dried out. The coupling cover developed play. This broke the seating areas of the cover. The cover came out of engagement with the oil pump rotor. This caused damage to the rotor and the oilpump body.
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After running the transmission without oil pressure, the housing bushing was damaged
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Other parts were in good condition.
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We all know that the Jetaway is a tricky beast.
Many people repair this transmission several times in a row and this is normal...
In the country where I am, no one gives a guarantee for jetaway rebuild
I decided to do the repair myself. Before, I had never repaired automatic transmissions.
I got a lot of information from this forum.
Thank you from the bottom of my heart to Roger Zimmermann
His recommendations and posts on the forum were very helpful
The transmission was repaired for 7 months. It did without several repairs. The transmission works fine.
1-2 is almost unnoticeable.
2-3 is hard
3-4 is even less noticeable than 1-2.
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Be careful with the oil rings I broke 3 of them.
There are no governor rings for sale, I bought a NOS governor on eBay. Removed the necessary ring
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The valvebody was missing this spring. It's good that I found out about it before disassembling the transmission, otherwise I would have gone crazy trying to find this spring.
Good to see you here Roman, great work!
Best / Johan
Nice work, Roman! Ah! those valve bodies and the springs: what I see in the transmission I'm overhauling is not always corresponding with the shop manual. The question is always: what this or that spring lost during a prior work or was it discarded by the factory? Some technical bulletins are describing a change but not always...
I understand that in your region few people can work on those transmissions; it's about the same in Europe.
At the time when the transmissions were being repaired, I took apart almost the all car.
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Unfortunately, the frame factory markings are almost destroyed.
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OEM body mount good condition
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OEM hardware very good condition! Go to replated
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The frame was transported to sandblasting
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1.Blasting
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2.Epoxy primer(jotun)
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3.Paint(Jotun conseal)
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After the frame was repaired, the body was sent for sandblasting
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To move the body my friend made a body cart
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The lower part of the body was lightly sandblasted.
I made a mistake. I didn't remove all Ńoated
Rust FREE body!
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After sandblasting, we coated it with epoxy primer "jotun jotamastic 80 wg"
I didn't like it. It looks wrong and filthy
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Removed the remains of coated from the bottom and drops of epoxy primer.
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Sandblasted rocker panels, lower quarter panels and firewall
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Factory body sealant and LEAD BODY SOLDER ;D
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The sandblasted areas of the body and the places where the remains of the coated were removed were painted with epoxy primer. After that, body sealant was applied with a brush.
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I just wanted to prime the bottom like at the factory, without coating
Because of several layers of primer it looked terrible.
To hide the defects I used a spreadable sealant
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Next comes painting
factory color "red oxide"
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After painting the body, the work underneath
was completed.
Some of the body paint was sprayed underneath as at the factory
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Next I applied the coating approximately as at the factory
I took the photo of the car with the factory coating from this forum
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G'day Roman,
That is what I call, going above and beyond. As you have found out, Sand Blasting will simply bounce off any rubberised coatings like seam sealer and sound deadening, as well as grease.
One thing that I have found is that when any electrical connection, be it a ground or anything where paint is applied, these spots need to be devoid of paint or you will be chasing wiring issues for a long time.
Remember that the original paint was really thin, and the final proofcoating was applied after the car was assembled. This meant that any electrical connections (Grounds) hit metal when they were screwed into the body or chassis.
Bruce. >:D
Terrific effort--- well done..Enjoying your pictures... (those flexible brake lines look old and dangerous though!)
Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) on December 22, 2024, 06:22:48 PMG'day Roman,
That is what I call, going above and beyond. As you have found out, Sand Blasting will simply bounce off any rubberised coatings like seam sealer and sound deadening, as well as grease.
One thing that I have found is that when any electrical connection, be it a ground or anything where paint is applied, these spots need to be devoid of paint or you will be chasing wiring issues for a long time.
Remember that the original paint was really thin, and the final proofcoating was applied after the car was assembled. This meant that any electrical connections (Grounds) hit metal when they were screwed into the body or chassis.
Bruce. >:D
I agree! I installed grounding strips. They connect the firewall and the engine.
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Quote from: James Landi on December 23, 2024, 07:35:25 AMTerrific effort--- well done..Enjoying your pictures... (those flexible brake lines look old and dangerous though!)
It is better to do this with a lift.
After painting, the frame was delivered and assembly began.
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The suspension parts are sandblasted and painted with polymer paint
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New suspension patrs! Shafts and ball joint
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All screws and fasteners have been replated
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Before installing the shaft bushings, it is necessary to spread the suspension arms
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I made a homemade spreader
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I tightened the bushings with an impact wrench.
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OEM lower arm bumpers
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Assembled suspension arms
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Oil shock absorbers sandblasted and painted
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Oem coil spring sandblastged and painted
The springs are marked with gray paint as at the factory.
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Assembling the front suspension using studs of different sizes
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Spring insulator
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Front suspension assembly
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It's interesting to note that during the 1961 model year the upper control arms were re-designed, and king pins were gave way to ball joints. During that period, our family had a '60 and a '61, and the differences were noticeable. I concluded that while the change over provided more precise steering and less "float," the redesign required less tire pressure (spec at 24 ft and 22 rear) to provide less harshness. Thank you for sharing your journey with us Roman. James
The king pin was used till 1956. From 1957, ball joints were used on the front suspension.
After the front suspension, restored the steering All steering elements are original, except for the steering tips and pitman arm. All hardware is zinc coated. Springs are oxidized
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These parts are not in very good condition. I don't quite understand what they are for. I left them as is
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The problem on 1959-60 Cadillacs is a defective pitman arm. There was a recall
Pitman arm Recall - 1035 bad & 1038 good 3.jpg
I couldn't find numbers on the pitman arm. My Cadillac is an early 1959, all the parts where the date is visible are stamped 1958. I think the pitman arm was not changed. I replaced it.
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Wanted to install a new idler arm. The new arm had more play than the factory one. Unfortunately, the new parts are much worse than the factory parts. Sandblasted, painted and installed the original idler arm.
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Everything is easy to assemble
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It is important to align the triangular spacer to match the holes for the oil press
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My friend re-sealed and adjusted the steering gearbox.
I sandblasted and painted it
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The steering is installed
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Roman,
The purpose of these stainless steel cups is to prevent your grease from leaking out around the holes where the pitman and idler arms go into the center-link assembly.
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When I rebuilt the steering on my 56 I couldn't figure out what purpose those things served either, until I went to grease everything, then it became obvious.
The dust covers around the pitman arm ball and the idler arm ball being metal with no actual rubber seal of any kind just keeps the dirt from getting into the openings where the grease comes out. Without the cups installed, the openings are bigger than the dust shields and your grease is exposed to the elements.
I couldn't find new ones for my car and figured they weren't really necessary so I left them out. It was only when I began to pump the grease into the fittings that I realized what they did.
I even tried to find someone who could make new ones but nobody was willing to try or just unable to.
So yours don't look too bad, I'd just reuse them. You'll regret not putting them in.
Nice job on your car too. I like the abundance of pictures. Thanks for posting them.
Rick
Roman, tell us what was next in your project, please.
Roman,
Here's the link to the thread I posted on my steering linkage rebuild. It might help explain the cups a bit more.
https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/index.php?topic=166427.0
Rick
Your work looks very good. I'm glad to see you are paying attention to the details and replacing the pitman arm (I'm the author of that article). The build date of the car is not relevant to the status of the pitman arm; the bad ones can be on pretty much any '59 or '60. The recall was not limited cars built before any particular date.