Hello, everyone.
Disclaimer:
I do fully understand that 99% of you do not consider Fleetwood Broughams of 1993-1996 as something worth restoring or even detailing, but the truth is that in Russia, the country or my origin, any american car is at the same level of rareness, as cars from Russia here in United States.
With this in mind, here is the story of the frame-off detailing (as this was not the complete restoration) of the very good car, and now I can proudly say that it is the best Fleetwood Brougham of the '93-'96 era in Russia now.
First, I will share with you the exterior and interior pictures of what I had at the starting point.
(https://a.d-cd.net/IEAAAgAD6-A-1920.jpg)
From outside the car was looking great
(https://a.d-cd.net/8EAAAgAD6-A-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/WbAAAgK8i-A-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/2TAAAgK8i-A-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/yrAAAgK8i-A-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/8rAAAgK8i-A-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/pHAAAgK8i-A-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/5HAAAgK8i-A-1920.jpg)
These strips are usually totally worn
So, it all meant that the car could be brought to the state "just yesterday from the production line"
However, underneath the car, there were things that could be significantly improved...
(https://a.d-cd.net/UwAAAgJiC-A-1920.jpg)
Someone would say that it's ok. But no, I decided to make it new
(https://a.d-cd.net/jwAAAgJiC-A-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/7wAAAgJiC-A-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/6wAAAgJiC-A-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/3QAAAgJiC-A-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/mwAAAgJiC-A-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/cwAAAgJiC-A-1920.jpg)
Nothing serious, but not perfect
(https://a.d-cd.net/vQAAAgJiC-A-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/CwAAAgJiC-A-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/2wAAAgJiC-A-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/_QAAAgJiC-A-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/RwAAAgJiC-A-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/NwAAAgJiC-A-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/bgAAAgFiC-A-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/LQAAAgHiC-A-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/megAAgESL-A-1920.jpg)
This project already finished, and I will post each day some portion of the material as it was done chronologically. The idea is the same as I currently do with my 1953 Fleetwood. First - you "teach" the car to drive well (you fix all the mechanical bugs), and then you do all the cosmetics. It took me 1 year to fix all the technical problems (of course, I was not spending with this car 24/7). Also, during this time I was getting prepared for the frame-off, purchasing all the necessary parts, which are hard to find on these cars.
After that, in just 3 months, I did the complete frame-off and re-assembled the car.
I hope you will enjoy this technical & esthetic journey.
Delco Remy series CS-144
It had to be fixed and you will see why...
(https://a.d-cd.net/7qAAAgK9C-A-1920.jpg)
New rebuilt kit
(https://a.d-cd.net/lKAAAgK9C-A-1920.jpg)
New rear needle bearing
(https://a.d-cd.net/nqAAAgK9C-A-1920.jpg)
Halfs after strong pH chemistry
(https://a.d-cd.net/KaAAAgK9C-A-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/WAAAAgG9C-A-1920.jpg)
And this is the main problem. Dead diodes
(https://a.d-cd.net/XQAAAgG9C-A-1920.jpg)
This guy also left the chat
(https://a.d-cd.net/OAAAAgG9C-A-1920.jpg)
New part
(https://a.d-cd.net/CAAAAgG9C-A-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/-AAAAgG9C-A-1920.jpg)
Installed
(https://a.d-cd.net/KwAAAgG9C-A-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/r4AAAgG9C-A-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/A4AAAgG9C-A-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/xwAAAgG9C-A-1920.jpg)
At work
(https://a.d-cd.net/RuAAAgC3S-A-1920.jpg)
New hood gas springs
(https://a.d-cd.net/CmAAAgC3S-A-1920.jpg)
Installed. Now the hood will not drop on your neck
(https://a.d-cd.net/nOAAAgC3S-A-1920.jpg)
Meanwhile, garage photo with my lovely 2004 Escalade ESV
New turn signal switch
This is also one of the weak parts in this car. You might spend time fixing it, but the best way is to replace it with the new part, if you manage to find one...
(https://a.d-cd.net/s6AAAgMCy-A-1920.jpg)
Airbag fuse goes off
(https://a.d-cd.net/hGAAAgMCy-A-1920.jpg)
And horn as well
(https://a.d-cd.net/u6AAAgMCy-A-1920.jpg)
Disconnect airbag wiring
(https://a.d-cd.net/jGAAAgMCy-A-1920.jpg)
Use T30 to unscrew the center button on the steering wheel
(https://a.d-cd.net/KGAAAgMCy-A-1920.jpg)
Here we go
(https://a.d-cd.net/xGAAAgMCy-A-1920.jpg)
Steering wheel remover
(https://a.d-cd.net/zGAAAgMCy-A-1920.jpg)
Take this lock ring off
(https://a.d-cd.net/GGAAAgMCy-A-1920.jpg)
And take the whole plate off
(https://a.d-cd.net/pGAAAgMCy-A-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/rGAAAgMCy-A-1920.jpg)
Take the horn contact plate off
(https://a.d-cd.net/2GAAAgMCy-A-1920.jpg)
Unscrew all those guys shown by arrows
(https://a.d-cd.net/SAAAAgCCy-A-1920.jpg)
Then take the lower shield off
(https://a.d-cd.net/SgAAAgCCy-A-1920.jpg)
This wiring channel needs to be removed as shown by the red line
(https://a.d-cd.net/aAAAAgCCy-A-1920.jpg)
And then you are ready to gently pull all the wiring off the steering column
(https://a.d-cd.net/rAAAAgCCy-A-1920.jpg)
Yes, it is tricky... but believe me - it is possible, and it will save a huge amount of time and nerves
(https://a.d-cd.net/KgAAAgCCy-A-1920.jpg)
New part
(https://a.d-cd.net/GAAAAgCCy-A-1920.jpg)
Unpacking...
(https://a.d-cd.net/7AAAAgCCy-A-1920.jpg)
Put everything back together
(https://a.d-cd.net/GgAAAgCCy-A-1920.jpg)
Take the new stick
(https://a.d-cd.net/OAAAAgCCy-A-1920.jpg)
And click it..
(https://a.d-cd.net/3AAAAgCCy-A-1920.jpg)
This is how spring-loaded plate goes into its place
And some new parts for the future...
(https://a.d-cd.net/hgAAAgNY6-A-1920.jpg)
New front shocks - the best for the Fleetwood 93-96
(https://a.d-cd.net/bQAAAgKY6-A-1920.jpg)
New transmission oil pan
(https://a.d-cd.net/FgAAAgKY6-A-1920.jpg)
New coat for the battery
(https://a.d-cd.net/owAAAgKY6-A-1920.jpg)
New decals
(https://a.d-cd.net/DgAAAgKY6-A-1920.jpg)
New smog pump
(https://a.d-cd.net/4973bads-1920.jpg)
NOS trim
(https://a.d-cd.net/f173bads-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/3973bads-1920.jpg)
New spears
(https://a.d-cd.net/1973bads-1920.jpg)
New guards
(https://a.d-cd.net/5573bads-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/7iAAAgDL32A-1920.jpg)
New OptiSpark
(https://a.d-cd.net/bAAAAgLL32A-1920.jpg)
This costs a lot
(https://a.d-cd.net/KAAAAgLL32A-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/niAAAgDL32A-1920.jpg)
Mitsubishi sensor on OptiSpark
(https://a.d-cd.net/zqAAAgDL32A-1920.jpg)
Rear air shocks connectors and fittings - brass, not plastic!
(https://a.d-cd.net/KaAAAgDL32A-1920.jpg)
New body mount bolts
(https://a.d-cd.net/TAAAAgLL32A-1920.jpg)
New motor mount
(https://a.d-cd.net/nEAAAgLQP2A-1920.jpg)
New oil cooler lines
(https://a.d-cd.net/VEAAAgLQP2A-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/NEAAAgLQP2A-1920.jpg)
New steering dampener
(https://a.d-cd.net/dEAAAgLQP2A-1920.jpg)
New rear shocks
(https://a.d-cd.net/LgAAAgJ6f2A-1920.jpg)
NOS AFM
(https://a.d-cd.net/GAAAAgJ6f2A-1920.jpg)
NOS left header
(https://a.d-cd.net/ZgAAAgJ6f2A-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/XgAAAgJ6f2A-1920.jpg)
Rear lenses
(https://a.d-cd.net/PgAAAgJ6f2A-1920.jpg)
New cigarette lighters
(https://a.d-cd.net/dgAAAgJ6f2A-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/QwAAAgJ6f2A-1920.jpg)
New ashtrays
(https://a.d-cd.net/KwAAAgJ6f2A-1920.jpg)
New flexplate
(https://a.d-cd.net/JwAAAgJ6f2A-1920.jpg)
With new bolts...
(https://a.d-cd.net/FAAAAgEbAOA-1920.jpg)
NOS right header
(https://a.d-cd.net/ZgAAAgEbAOA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/FgAAAgEbAOA-1920.jpg)
Impressive...Did you buy the NOS parts because you had a chance to get them or by necessity?
It was both. For these late GM vehicles only OEM parts work correctly. And if you want to make the car perform and look like new, there is the only way. Chrome and stainless trim was the toughest to find. A lot of plastic parts were chrome plated, and chrome peels, and you can do nothing rather than buy new
Thanks for posting. It's an impressive auto. What is its history? How many miles on the odometer? You selected to install some parts that rarely age... the flex plate comes to mind... was the original cracked? What were the mechanical issues that you initially faced? As you mentioned, many of the plastic trim pieces don't weather well... where are you sourcing them? Looking forward to knowing more about your beautiful car. James
Quote from: James Landi on February 15, 2025, 08:24:23 AMThanks for posting. It's an impressive auto. What is its history? How many miles on the odometer? You selected to install some parts that rarely age... the flex plate comes to mind... was the original cracked? What were the mechanical issues that you initially faced? As you mentioned, many of the plastic trim pieces don't weather well... where are you sourcing them? Looking forward to knowing more about your beautiful car. James
James, thanks for asking.
The story is not as amazing as for my 1953 Fleetwood, but still what I have:
The car was sold in US. Then it was in an accident in 1996 with 10K miles on odometer. Salvage title. The Insurance company has fixed the car and sold it from the auction to United Arab Emirates. In early 1998 the car came to Russia. It was very well maintained and it served as a car for one bank executives. Then it was purchased by the Cadillac enthusiast (I am still with him in good relationship). In 2009 it was sold to one guy from the small city on the Black Sea shore. The car spent most time in the garage, but due to non-qualified service and maintenance, many things stopped working, and also that guy made several "modifications", which he thought would make the car better. No. They did not. In 2020 I purcahsed this car with the plan to restore it to its initial glory. In 2022 we were relocating to US, and I had to sell the car. Now it is in Sochi at the Black Sea (where the winter 2014 Olympiad was held).
Issues there were many of them
- Alternator
- Central Control Module
- Radio and all connections
- Many electrical problems
- Some engine problems, not serious, but still
- Worn suspension
- Propeller shaft vibration
- Rear axle noise
- Many interior and exterior problems
Some additional NOS parts and then we will continue...
(https://a.d-cd.net/4IAAAgNyC-A-1920.jpg)
Some new trim
(https://a.d-cd.net/74AAAgNyC-A-1920.jpg)
This was really hard to find NOS, and it had an impressive price
(https://a.d-cd.net/bIAAAgNyC-A-1920.jpg)
More fender spears
(https://a.d-cd.net/bAAAAgPxCeA-1920.jpg)
New original windshield
(https://a.d-cd.net/4gAAAgPxCeA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/agAAAgPxCeA-1920.jpg)
NOS emblems
(https://a.d-cd.net/jUAAAgG1KuA-1920.jpg)
NOS headlamps
(https://a.d-cd.net/7kAAAgG1KuA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/hKAAAgIG3OA-1920.jpg)
NOS grille
(https://a.d-cd.net/QqAAAgIG3OA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/dEAAAgHG-uA-1920.jpg)
NOS turn signal and corner lamps
(https://a.d-cd.net/uCAAAgDMiOA-1920.jpg)
New exhaust from catalytic converters to tailpipes
(https://a.d-cd.net/2iAAAgDMiOA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/xSAAAgDMiOA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/-iAAAgDMiOA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/5SAAAgDMiOA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/IyAAAgDMiOA-1920.jpg)
.... and many many more
How to make the car flashing with high beam instead of low beam
There is a bug in 93-95 Fleetwoods that it flashes with low beams once you pull dimmer switch.
I had to fix it.
(https://a.d-cd.net/IEAAAgHGu-A-1920.jpg)
First you disconnect this connector on the steering column
(https://a.d-cd.net/uYAAAgHGu-A-1920.jpg)
And then you interchange two terminals
(https://a.d-cd.net/yEAAAgHGu-A-1920.jpg)
Here they are.
This is 10-minute job, but the effect is huge.
VATS disable
The anti-theft system, which is installed on these cars, "makes brains" only for the car owner (sooner or later), but not for those, who want to theft the car.
Thus, the only proper way to get rid of this problem is to completely remove the system. Here is how you do it correctly.
(https://a.d-cd.net/3EAAAgJ6u-A-1920.jpg)
Everybody knows that there is a resistor on a key, and each CCM is programmed to a special Ohm reading. There is a discrete number of combinations. Each CCM is programmed automatically once the FIRST time the key is inserted into ignition. Usually, it happens on a production line.
(https://a.d-cd.net/nkAAAgJ6u-A-1920.jpg)
Here are some troubleshooting tips from the factory manual.
(https://a.d-cd.net/6UAAAgJ6u-A-1920.jpg)
You can really go mad reading this
(https://a.d-cd.net/fEAAAgJ6u-A-1920.jpg)
But my goal is to omit all this
(https://a.d-cd.net/3kAAAgJ6u-A-1920.jpg)
I am giving you these photos just to understand how terrible the system is
(https://a.d-cd.net/vkAAAgJ6u-A-1920.jpg)
First, you disconnect the terminals at the steering column, and put the correct resistor instead of key reader. Now there will be no problem with dirty or oxidized contacts...
(https://a.d-cd.net/2UAAAgJ6u-A-1920.jpg)
Click all this into connector
(https://a.d-cd.net/y0AAAgJ6u-A-1920.jpg)
and secure it under the steering column
(https://a.d-cd.net/d4AAAgJ3e-A-1920.jpg)
Next, we need to remove the starter relay, which can be disabled by the PCM if the Ohm reading is not correct. Also, this relay is located under the dash, so in case of it's failure you can't crank the engine, but at the same time you will need to remove dash in order to fix the problem. Do you want such an exercise? I hope that no.
(https://a.d-cd.net/cEAAAgJ3e-A-1920.jpg)
PCM also disables the fuel supply
(https://a.d-cd.net/CEAAAgJ3e-A-1920.jpg)
These are the "problem terminals" at the CCM unit...
(https://a.d-cd.net/JAAAAgF3e-A-1920.jpg)
I removed the dash, took the relay, and connected the terminals "forever and ever"
(https://a.d-cd.net/FAAAAgF3e-A-1920.jpg)
Next, you take the TunerPro software, load the bin file that you've read previously by the EEHack software, and make changes. You disable the VATs check in PCM. So, it particularly means that the PCM will not check the Ohm reading at all, but at the same time, all the dash lamps will behave as if the system works and works correctly, which is important.
Finally, you upload the new bin file using EEHack, and enjoy your new life without this crazy system.
Propeller shaft vibration fix
There was a vibration at 60+ MPH coming from the rear end. This could cause by either wheels, axle shafts, or propeller shaft. The only way to know it is to go step by step in this process, and check each single node.
(https://a.d-cd.net/9OAAAgCyV-A-1920.jpg)
First I start with universal joints, which were not as smooth as they have to be
(https://a.d-cd.net/eOAAAgCyV-A-1920.jpg)
Process of replacement
(https://a.d-cd.net/5uAAAgCyV-A-1920.jpg)
I used these ones, and recommend it for everybody
(https://a.d-cd.net/jeAAAgCyV-A-1920.jpg)
Done
This did not help.
(https://a.d-cd.net/SOAAAgCyV-A-1920.jpg)
Then I replaced the rear drums to a new ones from Raybestos, it also did not help. But at least the short list of possible issues became shorter.
(https://a.d-cd.net/-aAAAgCyV-A-1920.jpg)
Then I have straighten rims. They had some imperfections.
(https://a.d-cd.net/aoAAAgIUx-A-1920.jpg)
Of course, I replaced the new, but old cracked tires
(https://a.d-cd.net/gIAAAgDfR-A-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/EwAAAgDfR-A-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/QwAAAgDfR-A-1920.jpg)
On new tires
This did not help as well. Good. we are on the way!
(https://a.d-cd.net/aOAAAgCyV-A-1920.jpg)
Here is the fast device to measure the axle runout
(https://a.d-cd.net/pOAAAgCyV-A-1920.jpg)
As now all rims are good, then we can detect, if the axles are bended. No, they were good.
(https://a.d-cd.net/umAAAgCyV-A-1920.jpg)
Ok. Then I measure the propeller shaft runout
(https://a.d-cd.net/WOAAAgCyV-A-1920.jpg)
Then, using a chalk and a procedure for the self-balancing of the propeller shaft on a car, I have managed to detect the real issue: with these weights all the vibrations disappeared...
(https://a.d-cd.net/1OAAAgCyV-A-1920.jpg)
This is how I tightened weights
(https://a.d-cd.net/xuAAAgCyV-A-1920.jpg)
Problems were both in the front and rear ends of propeller shaft
Then I went to the propeller shaft balancing shop in order to do all this on a professional setup.
It's good that I had a spare yoke, because without it the shaft can't be secured on balancing machine
(https://a.d-cd.net/OxAAAgD9z-A-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/QRAAAgD9z-A-1920.jpg)
Original label
(https://a.d-cd.net/zBAAAgD9z-A-1920.jpg)
Here are new weights in the front
(https://a.d-cd.net/rBAAAgD9z-A-1920.jpg)
... and in the rear
But even this was not the end, as propeller shaft should be properly installed on a car so that the universal joints angles are within the specs.
(https://a.d-cd.net/opAAAgD9z-A-1920.jpg)
First, you need to adjust the lever on the rear end height gauge in order to bring the car to the exactly correct suspension level
(https://a.d-cd.net/PBAAAgD9z-A-1920.jpg)
After that you need to adjust front and rear angles...
(https://a.d-cd.net/jBAAAgD9z-A-1920.jpg)
I have cut the wooden piece of the correct length, because with a measuring tape it's impossible to catch the desired level
(https://a.d-cd.net/ahAAAgD9z-A-1920.jpg)
Lever adjustment
(https://a.d-cd.net/7BAAAgD9z-A-1920.jpg)
This metal plate is held by a strong magnet, and this parallel to the pinion shaft
(https://a.d-cd.net/YRAAAgD9z-A-1920.jpg)
This plate on the front universal joint bearing cap will show the transmission shaft angle
(https://a.d-cd.net/3pAAAgD9z-A-1920.jpg)
Then I refer to the more accurate table from the Manual
(https://a.d-cd.net/URAAAgD9z-A-1920.jpg)
The angles in propeller shaft joints should be like it is shown on a scheme
(https://a.d-cd.net/MRAAAgD9z-A-1920.jpg)
I used an app on my smartphone to measure these angles between transmission and propeller shaft, and between propeller shaft and a pinion shaft
(https://a.d-cd.net/fBAAAgD9z-A-1920.jpg)
This is another angle. These are final measurements after I have added 1/2" of shims under the transmission mount So, the problem was both in non-balanced shaft, and wrong joint angles.
(https://a.d-cd.net/ERAAAgD9z-A-1920.jpg)
All measurements and adjustments must be done with car weight at rear axle. So, you jack it under differential, but not under the frame
(https://a.d-cd.net/nBAAAgD9z-A-1920.jpg)
Correct level with wheels off the ground.
Impressive mechanical engineering and diagnoses. Did you conclude that the car, as originally produced, had out of balance drive train or were there factors, such as age and wear that cause problems? James
Quote from: James Landi on February 18, 2025, 07:21:07 AMImpressive mechanical engineering and diagnoses. Did you conclude that the car, as originally produced, had out of balance drive train or were there factors, such as age and wear that cause problems? James
Seems that the propeller shaft was not balanced well from the factory. I have experienced it on my Escalade as well.
The wrong angles are due to motor mounts and transmission mount age
Ok.
Let me skip describing of how I have fixed other issues, which are less interesting in terms of overall impact, and turn to the "main course".
(https://a.d-cd.net/sM9h_aHpBQzKAMeyP7LIOKfwOqw-1920.jpg)
Everything started spontaneously, when I decided to fix the EVAP system, which was not working correctly. The adsorber is located between the front right wheel and the bumper.
(https://a.d-cd.net/L7v9wjWWUVqE_LLv88W_Ki8-3G8-1920.jpg)
Dirty, but nothing critical here
(https://a.d-cd.net/EZIvcZL2KP1_N7U5jrQk0HusZVo-1920.jpg)
But the bottom of the canister was "removed" long time ago in order to help breathing )))
(https://a.d-cd.net/7sCIOt0-a9rLNcytNCObjpATpS8-1920.jpg)
The bracket is total mess
(https://a.d-cd.net/KhWbcWN1TZOBM2qL7jHFB0QSr7c-1920.jpg)
All hoses and tubes needed to be replaced with the new ones
(https://a.d-cd.net/V4i6XXlzP2Dt46uSLpwuwU5e68w-1920.jpg)
A lot of coal...
(https://a.d-cd.net/yNZiYK5RQ898a9n5CLaGmtlexFI-1920.jpg)
New canister
(https://a.d-cd.net/DfmJcMf45IusvRq_Uqnmrr5bkAQ-1920.jpg)
Then I understood that I need to fix the front splash shields (which are made of the shit plastics). These shields are impossible to find new
(https://a.d-cd.net/Nz5vDqPRMOM5UsGLHBWucugeI_E-1920.jpg)
Then I took a bender to make new stainless tubes for the EVAP system
(https://a.d-cd.net/xDT6f9Ea2r7q4C3N3qyZ1SpiAeM-1920.jpg)
Looks good
(https://a.d-cd.net/6Oye6TlDr4j9MeHEfX6dQCH1Tms-1920.jpg)
But then I understood that I want to fix broken bolts and studs on exhaust
(https://a.d-cd.net/2pOdA_duxkGphnPia35gZgRL_l8-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/HM8jxPW8caaVdqvaGravrZepvsw-1920.jpg)
Here we see metric studs instead of imperial bolts....
(https://a.d-cd.net/5oWFFnBOjiMICnObp_rPaafD8PA-1920.jpg)
No, this must be fixed anyway
(https://a.d-cd.net/uoXv49-s_LwU9ThV1Y85bVO7FX4-1920.jpg)
Then I decided to take off all the exhaust
(https://a.d-cd.net/N357URp1VWb90NJIsD6aRqoMc-o-1920.jpg)
Because many bolts and nuts were not correct
(https://a.d-cd.net/fwT_eY4IPpAGQH3ZlEz7D5IczhE-1920.jpg)
Heat shields
(https://a.d-cd.net/upRXyTnkQwSDpzIoJwzXVykxbPk-1920.jpg)
But when you see this, you understand that you will not want to put it back on a car as is.
(https://a.d-cd.net/2g-nm6r5PVGa-FpIdGKh6SNRvPM-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/Qi_8yEr3oq90I7_ury2qxb_ymrQ-1920.jpg)
After all stuff from the bottom of the body was removed, I saw many things that were hidden before...
(https://a.d-cd.net/bhy6Zg86-kEQCB4-cb2J0u2Ewzk-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/dw9erlr_Zchvl9rfDlPgiwVgUy0-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/YhHF_1vA1Xukztxabx1ezDwULHE-1920.jpg)
This is a surface rust, but it has to be fixed
(https://a.d-cd.net/aDkOlHNYTGt3oUv_M_9iuHD-owY-1920.jpg)
Frame was painted over rust by previous owners
(https://a.d-cd.net/sBI71t4gI2aWtOnzbXREsajah4k-1920.jpg)
Meanwhile, NOS engine mount (now I have both of them). Rare find
(https://a.d-cd.net/qmWo9Eux6rlGACXXfib2_M38y6s-1920.jpg)
New fuel filter
(https://a.d-cd.net/IZbSJNVjw8UiYvE26CqMFQVB_t0-1920.jpg)
Front splash shields were fixed and coated with Line-X (or Raptor). Now they will not crack
(https://a.d-cd.net/ZY22KM3DYCadWwDmua_PJo1cmZw-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/8hTidFErwPeZpNlxCybMAxQ_8zQ-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/4qV9ctpl-6WpEAh24JMecGZTxNc-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/KfUiHjt6GusOcX978oMpq9_1s9Q-1920.jpg)
Tank on the floor, ready for further disassembly
(https://a.d-cd.net/KJUvyNBYewFHphApr_WCN2cUfok-1920.jpg)
I decided to keep original converters, so preparing them for the sandblasting
(https://a.d-cd.net/Od8VIJ-UB0aN6lPjRmoIwtTP7-U-1920.jpg)
The process...
(https://a.d-cd.net/FCbgM4-XILakwOfvdzyhCh_hKh0-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/XMlhGV2O3u__gvGUGWGrKOz5a2w-1920.jpg)
All brake lines will go to junk
(https://a.d-cd.net/7dDk_XqzctLmYK5qE1wuVqciJb4-1920.jpg)
Rare view
(https://a.d-cd.net/3Odq0r78Aopaq4WsQHNlkqElh3I-1920.jpg)
One of the axles was "restored". Welding + grinding. But this is how it should not be done due to the requirement of high strength of this neck contacting with a needles on bearing
(https://a.d-cd.net/qIbRUYmZCcfEyn476kTedNGLNlg-1920.jpg)
Fuel suction mesh was broken long time ago
(https://a.d-cd.net/fvBOSJv1kNCjyWR6Dr2Bu04RTiM-1920.jpg)
All these buckets will go to zinc-plating
(https://a.d-cd.net/PNDqBrwbLyz-QstCY8gK_jHu3FI-1920.jpg)
Everything that can be saved - will be saved
(https://a.d-cd.net/mMsTlK2CmQ1k-hhTC-ovTe0nBLI-1920.jpg)
This guy will go to sandblasting too.
The vehicle must have had a hard life with the axle needing rebuilding? I have seen GM 12 Bolt Axles get compromised axles where the roller bearings attack the surface, but those cars were from the '60's.
Bruce. >:D
Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) on February 18, 2025, 05:48:59 PMThe vehicle must have had a hard life with the axle needing rebuilding? I have seen GM 12 Bolt Axles get compromised axles where the roller bearings attack the surface, but those cars were from the '60's.
Bruce. >:D
My guess is that someone was enjoying regular burnouts with low level of hypoid oil, because in the future posts I will show what happened to the backlash between pinion and gear
The body is still on a frame, but meanwhile, some parts have returned from the plating shop
(https://a.d-cd.net/5feJhHWVGNCfvQ2V995Xl8Zru3M-1920.jpg)
First, I decided to keep original catalytic converters, as they are in an excellent shape and both have AC marking
(https://a.d-cd.net/pxtkHk7ZO5A3NZZzP7-rytYKsL8-1920.jpg)
They need a hi-temp coat
(https://a.d-cd.net/xZZqySqzNnnuSStODAyjqsCL5K0-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/MdVL-ucJLE2iOQtMEtHy3ndI2YI-1920.jpg)
A box with different hardware after zinc
(https://a.d-cd.net/lEFVpWdMbrueAsZBoiQNsSNgmi4-1920.jpg)
Heat shields in yellow zinc
(https://a.d-cd.net/6i3L7jvsSyFlJhzeexWP0npLdwA-1920.jpg)
White zinc
(https://a.d-cd.net/0MQLHHAkeXFCiXwtwJXicChUre4-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/zEHFn64gAju5TlOQqWXnH6kiq4c-1920.jpg)
Stainless EGR tube after electrochemical buffing
(https://a.d-cd.net/wPoFAfMPiVz7dBsfMy35NfijVfE-1920.jpg)
Some stuff after chemical blackening
(https://a.d-cd.net/NiwAMCc9Adafo-rnLfjRTyofc9A-1920.jpg)
I was surprised that there was a Cadillac script on one of the shields
(https://a.d-cd.net/8-ImBmZNg8A6EjsM2IUR_Yoxtho-1920.jpg)
Fuel tank straps in yellow zinc
(https://a.d-cd.net/Xuu7dZOt8fdjJrJckJRXXnWcCms-1920.jpg)
This is a high temp coat for exhaust
(https://a.d-cd.net/Dacff9l3kD0raKUSeA42JY2K0Kk-1920.jpg)
I decided to paint all the new exhaust pipes as well, as they are made of aluminized steel, but not stainless
(https://a.d-cd.net/I6yMl8nG3Lec1cjl9F_mc4om6Xg-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/2Cb0l6gfnGQkSwJxT2Ay59RDnF8-1920.jpg)
This all will be wrapped and put on a shelf until it's time
(https://a.d-cd.net/kekcLkG2k0ytQr-Upl1sRgnE2Z8-1920.jpg)
Rear suspension bolts
(https://a.d-cd.net/JT197kg2BAkRCUsQb0iFrdPeho8-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/7BMymdcOlhGCJKqddXL64bIp2rY-1920.jpg)
Anti-vibration dampeners
(https://a.d-cd.net/x6cyZE91xM_8GvRBayjaDERjk7k-1920.jpg)
Shift lever
(https://a.d-cd.net/nAPvmTt8nYGvD4s7FFEhN2C7jf4-1920.jpg)
It should look nice
(https://a.d-cd.net/hjMzoIZlGS51_RdbTflBNi7Se3c-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/3cngO6ppozGCVhhoUdyG6IrVaLY-1920.jpg)
Some engine hardware and parking brake balancer
(https://a.d-cd.net/5WbLc7yH2ds3OH5SO-B_IzFMWwA-1920.jpg)
EVAP canister bracket after zinc
(https://a.d-cd.net/mz9yu6FuSKKSP_x0u_pqWldcan4-1920.jpg)
Rear suspension level gauge
(https://a.d-cd.net/WG3QAlVfURGGYhx2UDBr45sGOVs-1920.jpg)
Header bolts, however, I will replace them with ARP bolts
(https://a.d-cd.net/_EnNqoXvtvYb6c7gnC_hANOmeGQ-1920.jpg)
Rear brake plates after sandblasting and powder coat
(https://a.d-cd.net/KkAt1wgkE-j4Jt45Cv2WX1aKCzQ-1920.jpg)
Under transmission exhaust hanger
(https://a.d-cd.net/vuzp_FNkXD4GcdPwgPvxCjpX4qw-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/2owi6S7JfunJRMewKBhZNSuQwqU-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/XmiXKCGcLrbCoepHcmwSAPEwfk0-1920.jpg)
Rear axle after sandblasting
(https://a.d-cd.net/IPTaY15jVK10NhIjGQHSm4CqxY0-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/fJ36Ydz1nWHG_YK45vbcqOgp4uU-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/Jc-E9bhRdxgdFLWk3R_D10vWJNw-1920.jpg)
I don't have any idea what it's all about, but still looks good
(https://a.d-cd.net/SgEzR2VXsf7xH-nRrEaTPSMx6Gk-1920.jpg)
The cast iron starts to corrode very fast, so you need to be quick and use the paint with special anti-corrosion inhibitors
(https://a.d-cd.net/sTOKUeZs1VIAQnLJIFuDGiqAaEA-1920.jpg)
I used black hammered enamel
(https://a.d-cd.net/dbhQmDU172u17IjJzXJL_ZgSaNQ-1920.jpg)
Some additional hardware
(https://a.d-cd.net/prt-QGPvwG23c550tx8vjffAhnU-1920.jpg)
Continue the previous post:
(https://a.d-cd.net/IX_W_Nb3Ffz6dccwImJiAY7xr8U-1920.jpg)
A lot of hardware should be chemically blackened - so we did it
(https://a.d-cd.net/8aNdy32W1WzGgMyQYFRnnbiG9gc-1920.jpg)
Transmission cooler lines after zinc
(https://a.d-cd.net/b8Yb1bJUJ6hOsrAPGpuuroCLoUE-1920.jpg)
From the factory they were coated with vinyl - I replicated it
(https://a.d-cd.net/tOutYVTFgidSTywd2OKq9RnmdTo-1920.jpg)
Fuel sender after it was chemically tinned
(https://a.d-cd.net/7U5poHZyb8wskA48dFB4SSmqoAo-1920.jpg)
Start assembly of the unit back again
(https://a.d-cd.net/bv410J2pdaaVyWP2EOQt1VbsWsQ-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/09Jg9PCayJDPJtQNmcihS15Rk1I-1920.jpg)
These terminals should be soldered instead of fast connectors (as it was from the factory)
It will eliminate tons of problems in the future
(https://a.d-cd.net/RmLULni_weQTBubb40xHuWALQzY-1920.jpg)
New high pressure tube is secured with stainless force clamps
(https://a.d-cd.net/cN_FVTi0nPI9uFPmlS2FN_-Z7Ss-1920.jpg)
Tested and ready to go back into the tank
(https://a.d-cd.net/SWAesFrAWhNvKGXlI4_aJYBTU2o-1920.jpg)
This is the picture to show how it was "before"
(https://a.d-cd.net/vwTFMpU-Si1LkHyXYoPO9Jqmabs-1920.jpg)
4L-60E after first wash
(https://a.d-cd.net/82UvCfQkt_HI3HirfFP63WIEhhY-1920.jpg)
Before...
(https://a.d-cd.net/S-g_7YmpOXrTKHLEcA1-TIiRBbM-1920.jpg)
After
(https://a.d-cd.net/LZPK6oCWU4hsye-V5DHIN7l7M3w-1920.jpg)
After sandblasting and powder coating
(https://a.d-cd.net/9jRwqEuMHrLvtURVKBGGRTTfltU-1920.jpg)
I decided to leave the original drums, as they were with zero wear, and I did the straightening them on a lathe and balancing in the special shop
(https://a.d-cd.net/jch0_yk28D3qA0WS7exuBnJAsKw-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/Cml1wNdZ309-JhpgZQJ3ZO_je9o-1920.jpg)
Most of these will not be used, because I found NOS
(https://a.d-cd.net/qRA5pxjCCT8HSHonL9CeFdA0BhA-1920.jpg)
However, these transmission cooler lines are impossible to find new, and they will be reused after zinc-coat
(https://a.d-cd.net/o9ZbGZYiS3A8TFlEH7nXflr4mqo-1920.jpg)
Temperature gauge housing after polishing
(https://a.d-cd.net/7-ikWKBCLLVoZBBjB_eK3zaZ5UU-1920.jpg)
Not perfect, but this does not matter )))
(https://a.d-cd.net/ZawXM7nYoR6iRHZWGS4xizAjlso-1920.jpg)
Fuel neck after chemical tinning
(https://a.d-cd.net/PLjYb3bvf0bJRn3fE3PZzUXMj5s-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/O651dMByqthV7pd31b4A2gdN3K0-1920.jpg)
Here is the NOS transmission mount. Now it becomes clear, why propeller shaft angles had to be corrected with 1/2" shims
(https://a.d-cd.net/VgY99qigXQy8HUpPyArcgW6NZeQ-1920.jpg)
Starter positive wire was almost off the terminal, which from time to time caused cranking issues. Soldered.
(https://a.d-cd.net/w8yrT9aHqkKjDftm_2AjyFKFgao-1920.jpg)
Starter motor housing
(https://a.d-cd.net/IH6nz-MBSLg0x6zRyWzygFtzrEM-1920.jpg)
Washed and lubricated
(https://a.d-cd.net/YjYcJsLrPEOOuuP2pqJ87cZjsuU-1920.jpg)
Assembled and tested
(https://a.d-cd.net/1K5ZqxgIx2gtWyLMK3Sk5Wqvz5E-1920.jpg)
In the next post I will disassemble the front clip and get ready for the sandblasting
Front side radiator deflectors were found NOS:
(https://a.d-cd.net/232cdeds-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/532cdeds-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/b32cdeds-1920.jpg)
Front clip disassembly and engine off
(https://a.d-cd.net/d95y8kJ7NCLJNcaib5Xi32zio70-1920.jpg)
The nice car from outside is not that nice inside
(https://a.d-cd.net/3ifKWQmD-cndgP1bYcwso1-8hLY-1920.jpg)
A/C Condenser. Needs replacement
(https://a.d-cd.net/H4Mj7IpCez95EfS0wbmkFQHZMJU-1920.jpg)
Everything that was fixed, plated, painted, etc - go to the shelfs in wrap
(https://a.d-cd.net/eqPD3UfgkhtSYdmkNCMsBVYVfbg-1920.jpg)
All boxes have list of parts inside
(https://a.d-cd.net/htbuppnubD0tX7ew4RVoKi1EHPc-1920.jpg)
16mm wrench is ideal to bend the flags on the throttle cable in order to remove it
(https://a.d-cd.net/ppohFP50qiUHY0mWnTtlUBywyIM-1920.jpg)
This is how it works
(https://a.d-cd.net/6rq_Nex3g8dhWIcqTBhcMPpWSRU-1920.jpg)
Trolleys under the frame
(https://a.d-cd.net/_lJhua7ui9qUDO8T8TVgDEpL_xI-1920.jpg)
They will replace the rear axle to make the car movable
(https://a.d-cd.net/B2EtwdpjUEmGFBjsKj1hRL4ckyM-1920.jpg)
A 2*6 lumber was used to connect them
(https://a.d-cd.net/Ogbq0aAmLzLOnih3HNJ5bZhjkng-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/IscSx0q5gdv1T9scbA0S1he6mVc-1920.jpg)
Disconnect all the wiring
(https://a.d-cd.net/u3m4sP_aw-_qiXm3hc45_SY9TUY-1920.jpg)
Signs of the accident when the car was salvaged
(https://a.d-cd.net/CfB0r4gi3qhrBF6tJljYl1nAZ7A-1920.jpg)
Ready to pull
(https://a.d-cd.net/GDsAQRTQVhEh_sI_8igkb8Wz20I-1920.jpg)
Body bushings are really tired
(https://a.d-cd.net/C_2PPmxfP_WG2z2nQ2LZ_ibAaNY-1920.jpg)
The LT1 engine pulled off the bay
(https://a.d-cd.net/E9y8jrEB4FNDftY4FnLQbr4qwwU-1920.jpg)
This is what I was not expecting to see: the bended due to the accident right engine mount bracket
(https://a.d-cd.net/oro1j1pZst6FFtvfY-sacSrt3ZA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/b8nZMV9O31-aWRFINTMds4pGZ7E-1920.jpg)
Neat...
(https://a.d-cd.net/j5ETGXWvPymb3duBUJV88QmMSC4-1920.jpg)
The engine took its place in the corner
(https://a.d-cd.net/iNiet8SoYvvgYUWjaQBrwPqKv6g-1920.jpg)
Again, a bunch of hardware will go to the plating shop
(https://a.d-cd.net/CXsihfQ9uF8_N8oKzn4ac-wx-7g-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/MWDq688yApTFtUNMg9y-2nlD4DI-1920.jpg)
This will go to the powder coat
(https://a.d-cd.net/Z5-Q0wKps-7qvRwLcW-RrCRqs3o-1920.jpg)
Don't you hate it when people shortcut and don't repair properly.
Bruce. >:D
Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) on February 21, 2025, 07:39:26 PMDon't you hate it when people shortcut and don't repair properly.
Bruce. >:D
Don't expect anything extra from ordinary people 😁
Sandblasting
The frame and underbody will undergo sandblasting, providing a clean slate for exceptional future work.
(https://a.d-cd.net/laZmWQ7lGLo4_OZkubu8RK2aYJo-1920.jpg)
50 kW compressor with the diesel engine
(https://a.d-cd.net/9DwZP2I9UI1FmCoMye1GV-A4ncQ-1920.jpg)
It was done in front of my home shop at the backyard
(https://a.d-cd.net/oF7LSytxLAw5pd5_tY2C0SvLjTw-1920.jpg)
The car was on old tires and non-chrome rims
(https://a.d-cd.net/UmRUmjvppkYdxrYF299xbbvz5g0-1920.jpg)
Totally 1.5 tons of copper slag was used
(https://a.d-cd.net/ygwdmmG7VqgiMg_383UbE16FPng-1920.jpg)
It looks terrible, I understand
(https://a.d-cd.net/X7GBwDlgdOqMqP49Bcg8SkoLJOA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/rLrDQHXVf7DvwfmMYIsLxm7FtxE-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/DlddijL5dmgg6Ws0UIl-pvZAfWo-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/096lJrYXe5UENVomuJGkpfGtKJY-1920.jpg)
Finished. In garage already
(https://a.d-cd.net/NeaXG__QwnY80Tip8sdYlhkb8Mk-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/pgMBkmzum6ilgpVzCO66y0UfeSw-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/xfQYiBc05fx0Ga5cDfn2WVobLbw-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/LM398LrAOOA8sYIn2JakRbHTNzs-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/XB-WAgDTEs7jugGg83QHOllgdJE-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/sUTSr4U3qxFCJH5SsZ4NjH7FzRs-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/L2dOya5nq7PRn1DScDnWLYvCw_o-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/_Hmf9fmLFUgx_pE7dwEjKg3gypg-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/j1acEVvyytMyTgftmnRgGKjpNeI-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/kHofWlbgL-7_Xjd4ZZO9afXNe_s-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/KQpcUwbhhgeDS0QS16O1KWPVkBI-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/8vJLAAZdvV75xSo1TAAV5N4ccU4-1920.jpg)
And this is the only problem that was found
(https://a.d-cd.net/SZ8m8U2yCfBGnMjWzcYG-Pm1nKc-1920.jpg)
Front crossmember. Remember how it was
(https://a.d-cd.net/Xg2vFx3MhDrIbdGPp8LM1iIubds-1920.jpg)
Preparing for paint job
(https://a.d-cd.net/L32NiD91sunoi1yBmrUxz_G3wDk-1920.jpg)
The body was raised and the frae was lowered
(https://a.d-cd.net/x2OSM5vUEsp6Bh1F9OfcNeKC1IE-1920.jpg)
To prevent bare metal from fast corrosion, a special solution on a formic acid was used.
(https://a.d-cd.net/nRbimZTXE1-0lSTdNVxUkKtAUfM-1920.jpg)
The metal becomes dark after such treatment, and resistant for further corrosion
(https://a.d-cd.net/cCn0pNWYHJTUEvDd-jU2k1T1q98-1920.jpg)
The corroded hole in the body was cured using aviation technologies: a piece of metal + steel rivets
(https://a.d-cd.net/XWiAaeDuGE9NiNLslOUE2WJx5xY-1920.jpg)
+ body sealant
(https://a.d-cd.net/fqDlNHmzIlUddAfqaA3J0SE9J9Y-1920.jpg)
Final look
(https://a.d-cd.net/i6yMxg1ASUwbv6K9FQ_43Ss7j9U-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/psZGMwen4Lgyfxq9Pigom8n9gW0-1920.jpg)
Another portion of hardware that goes to sandblasting and powder coating
(https://a.d-cd.net/g1lNIWH8J3fJbT1psfwDEy8tsyc-1920.jpg)
Body sealant was used on drain plugs
(https://a.d-cd.net/B8MXgpF574A1FHFbMukG0jKsCag-1920.jpg)
The frame after one coat of black hammered enamel, which has corrosion inhibitors
(https://a.d-cd.net/PWQWtM9hZTM9-WDLR4Sj_033rw8-1920.jpg)
Phosphoric primer
(https://a.d-cd.net/yB6Vr8TzTcvw5x2tMz0UUhg_F98-1920.jpg)
Antigravel coat
(https://a.d-cd.net/PH1JFnvo21qfdVughsEpiGj3W-s-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/o18kBnN6ceVON87d6nGI9xov0tA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/NdW9-RormOhM4yaECHRf5FLpMfg-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/5r45L66g-LvkrGGPRKUHC-qFrfM-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/eDicvo7ns2Kl00ZE_-q4GThydrM-1920.jpg)
Firewall was coated up to the welding stitch
(https://a.d-cd.net/RF1rEk9LsK6S-NETCnYC3obrBXE-1920.jpg)
Antigravel coat
(https://a.d-cd.net/dcKiygLXgWHPn9i-lZ2pvRGfrsQ-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/Ea7eeJjjSovMYGSblKArU9ZKv70-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/6HI1pICatTgQaVnt_DFQcvnovOU-1920.jpg)
Final coat
The body on GM vehicles was painted with RAL7033 color (cement grey), and only from outside it was painted with exterior color. So, every vehicle, regardless of exterior color, has grey underbody and floor inside.
I used 2K acrylic coat
(https://a.d-cd.net/FoPAKte6KFt4KXgSX56BgKVhCMg-1920.jpg)
The edge will be hidden with the firewall insulation
(https://a.d-cd.net/tiZLlngujxNCG7gI0xHO2wyHU9A-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/cloMg7fb9uISIs-uBYVbxY4FsxE-1920.jpg)
This is the location of the front alignment pin, which is used to position body on a frame
(https://a.d-cd.net/zYxnpCYxAIa5wiGddfRgRKTWjTo-1920.jpg)
Looks much better than before
(https://a.d-cd.net/OJUlp2kVH1uO0fKtK9WdXzmPpwM-1920.jpg)
Front suspension will go soon to the sandblasting
(https://a.d-cd.net/kLs6m0Ya-I3zlyU43huL16_fLUA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/_dW5YK5wkSvjTpxrybZlCrM9CdY-1920.jpg)
2K final coat is needed to cure all the pores on antigravel, as antigravel can't be the final coat
(https://a.d-cd.net/EcdADtG4TgFDKAASwsKqHlAT2o4-1920.jpg)
Rear alignment pin location
(https://a.d-cd.net/HMDaZzu0MqrHuUgGB86GH4FiTJo-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/UMN5BroJUnqBs2ZMmJ78408fkkk-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/UkEM897XH3s4P6VQAByX_gT0jYE-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/ycMWyKtlO6FSeUo-abfrlKLpV2M-1920.jpg)
Bottom of the trunk
(https://a.d-cd.net/UoZiq8rD9674-05-o6ae8yeAnoI-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/YCCLVN96cu74vnua0gybIFSznLI-1920.jpg)
Rear frame crossmember
(https://a.d-cd.net/4ercv1Jyqd4-YVnFP5kmzKC7i1A-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/exBSm8Bfw99YpqPRjDuFIyDyPRc-1920.jpg)
Impressive work. Something I'm wondering since some time: apparently, the license plates are Russian. But where did you perform the work? In Russia or the US?
Quote from: Roger Zimmermann on February 23, 2025, 12:55:42 PMImpressive work. Something I'm wondering since some time: apparently, the license plates are Russian. But where did you perform the work? In Russia or the US?
It was in Russia, and I had to sell this car in Russia before relocation
Rear axle
As I mentioned earlier, one of the axle shafts was irreparably damaged. Fortunately, along with the car came another axle shaft—scored by a bearing but without any welds or attempted repairs—which is a huge plus, saving a lot of time and some money. Here's why: in the U.S., you can buy special TIMKEN repair bearings (model TRP1563TAV) that replace the factory bearings. The trick is that they ride on the still-undamaged portion of the axle's machined surface!
(https://a.d-cd.net/MdzJUYszxlRaPPXr8Qd7epTT5ag-1920.jpg)
Left bearing - new original
(https://a.d-cd.net/8Vta90XcoA7-wymakp3glI9HJA0-1920.jpg)
Right bearing housing
(https://a.d-cd.net/bE09AnpL-dJFu-L6CX1VijgF9UI-1920.jpg)
This axle will be used from the passenger side. The problem is that these axles for 93-96 Fleetwoods are IMPOSSIBLE to find new. They just do not exist
(https://a.d-cd.net/BKZIsKSbsDsjGZ5FV5pYRx7N50o-1920.jpg)
The repair bearing must be positioned 1/4" or 6mm off the housing
(https://a.d-cd.net/kA0S2lIrADUlHRKIn-bhJNoJg40-1920.jpg)
Tool used ;)
(https://a.d-cd.net/LNt8PaZ7iujJtf3iAlkQOsXpTzc-1920.jpg)
Once the bearing is in place, I double checked with a marker that needles run over undamaged part of the axle neck
(https://a.d-cd.net/4OTS4HyNXW6VxyqYYWLQm2PVasw-1920.jpg)
Pre-assembling of the drum mechanisms
(https://a.d-cd.net/SxKWymSl9Uyl8FVCDI4dve2kdYk-1920.jpg)
It's ridiculous how many people assemble these mechanisms not correctly, after which self-adjusters do not work
(https://a.d-cd.net/zbNx4SRmQCsqssRCXtgX0kMdsU0-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/LgVQnf5Q6XXXrEhbA9J0JX__j98-1920.jpg)
New cylinders and zinc-coated hardware
(https://a.d-cd.net/hy9z61zBLaDnVPQMDZCBPq-_fnA-1920.jpg)
New steel tubes 3/16 with copper coat from inside and vinyl coat from outside
(https://a.d-cd.net/N_YFt1RlWjM5aKG1GzyJRAy5a5o-1920.jpg)
New nuts
(https://a.d-cd.net/X-pJYluYCI5p-cHB-XbimXRZcKo-1920.jpg)
Flaring process
(https://a.d-cd.net/AA_xzKOqqQyf4JCdJRYJuCb9AcY-1920.jpg)
Double flare
(https://a.d-cd.net/5QUh5ooscjkl6Be9A84E-4sOnVw-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/shVudzTcARjo-XIlgPVCtxHMoTw-1920.jpg)
New MOOG bushings
(https://a.d-cd.net/g_0mxa158YSguQRFaPX007wWYBc-1920.jpg)
Almost ready. The brake hoses are still old, as new ones were not yet delivered
(https://a.d-cd.net/qqGjV1rgSsroXaB0c_YeSBl0_Us-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/t5PRremwmxJoZ3TwIaO8HGnYqV8-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/DKV8GTm4Pg3cmYbO7A59Yyltgf4-1920.jpg)
....
And, some miscellaneous items...
(https://a.d-cd.net/ivDqJjTwHlw3rkkS3yLvvmmUNjk-1920.jpg)
New fuel sender mesh and transmission pipes recieved
(https://a.d-cd.net/RYvWuj_CDu_op5j8GlAolyWMphc-1920.jpg)
Now it's ready to go in tank
(https://a.d-cd.net/xM7wZMISGGPxAOo9TK_iecczewk-1920.jpg)
Positioned and tightened
(https://a.d-cd.net/2Csg8BWIZV4E6CawRdMFzamB8-M-1920.jpg)
Pressure regulator (for variable effort steering) on the steering pump was not oriented properly
(https://a.d-cd.net/bIz83NenKbC3hyJciZls6OTfp30-1920.jpg)
This is how it should be
(https://a.d-cd.net/GjAuY7A_dkxMaxKuMP0-0JE_6iM-1920.jpg)
Fixed, cleaned, o-rings changed, painted
(https://a.d-cd.net/sDUJs8uUzxJVbNYPMyd3aSDo5aM-1920.jpg)
Then I started fixing all the terminals on underhood wiring
(https://a.d-cd.net/0EA94xfzW05Z7xLn0MygmV08G5Y-1920.jpg)
New terminals come with a 10 inches of wires, so you unwrap the braid, solder new, wrap again
(https://a.d-cd.net/PRpcIWCW7A1zy0YGWKxfao-pm_A-1920.jpg)
Almost every connector had to be replaced
(https://a.d-cd.net/e6o4ysq3S4q4CLzyspxS4hGnTG0-1920.jpg)
Some details of the process
(https://a.d-cd.net/WMs-FyBth1UGmAwI0bMRaL1tJ1c-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/ZAphg-Ca3fDQPLvWpta68TkLRW0-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/9u6eYphXncgeOhTxJ8wFklqmYxA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/431yoGvN2SfQWm0nkaUvA1FEu0c-1920.jpg)
All those o-rings had to be replaced
(https://a.d-cd.net/UCeQY37P9r4DRAO7nn-t1OMQREA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/e0DgTQcRAloJWIxtfeDsQsBo60Y-1920.jpg)
All hoses for the power steering have to be isolated, because if they are not, and if they are touching the frame, you will notice noise from steering gear
(https://a.d-cd.net/RpAKtftkCd79bVEWvlBcHWfE_Ys-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/0QyhwGqK8n5e6P4QHj56T0oRsEo-1920.jpg)
Hand brake cable - sealed
(https://a.d-cd.net/NnyXEWbitzDh5KDr6nA7ExjokFg-1920.jpg)
New cables for the rear drum brakes
(https://a.d-cd.net/Y6U_eTCZ9ju0Sm2EUSuHWHHSQkQ-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/-LYiiIm5vd4A1m6TKtp5DyBk-3s-1920.jpg)
Looks better and better
Some things to be done before "wedding"
(https://a.d-cd.net/HbIMCSGlcGZaaSYfD3fuRBssLHo-1920.jpg)
Steel part of EVAP system pipe was put into self-wrapping vinyl
(https://a.d-cd.net/BTzkSqeBi_HMmfGViEiTF_C4lsE-1920.jpg)
To prevent wear, the part that goes into the frame was protected with crimped sleeve
(https://a.d-cd.net/lCImSg33Y1RSKV-TWrncrywnaus-1920.jpg)
This is how it looks on a frame
(https://a.d-cd.net/fjNDvTIjP4Oagh8omjggQSgkrEA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/bycLZv3annERArP46dBD5GR7A7U-1920.jpg)
And finally I put back in place the EVAP canister, from which the whole process has begun
(https://a.d-cd.net/SvYP6eNNZqsk4zufYmjRUYV566Q-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/LgqA77dbwGXgibOBxTau8kl7qIY-1920.jpg)
Left side: new brake lines. More details about brake lines
(https://a.d-cd.net/PhLeTx7E2hdzxK0Ko2LWiPQWIUI-1920.jpg)
Bender for 3/16 tube. Works good. Black mark corresponds to the center of the bended radius
(https://a.d-cd.net/SefC4WdIepVpcgYHyVawtnhq2Qc-1920.jpg)
I used the plastic straps to fix the tube and repeat as close as it is possible the trajectory of the original tube
(https://a.d-cd.net/4AWs0_SGOaR6tdTTWiB41J4H98g-1920.jpg)
Another device (right corner) was used to secure the tubes
(https://a.d-cd.net/V9jPPwKx6hDvyXbvJSZlALkgrKc-1920.jpg)
Almost done with one pipe
(https://a.d-cd.net/sur8bZ5Yr82sXiE8OMq770GQFiM-1920.jpg)
The trajectory is very complex, so securing both tubes together is a must
(https://a.d-cd.net/REOl8vB5DbRcLcmehkWlVtp9UyM-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/1n-wkR0N5BEha3E1Ukvoe7ceJSU-1920.jpg)
Short tube to the right wheel
(https://a.d-cd.net/LnJ4Wzx4jCTWG3u-Wk94OVMJKnE-1920.jpg)
Just the same process
(https://a.d-cd.net/Ar9v8FYRC1w_z0aFq-bVR5MN5wk-1920.jpg)
I mark the center, then slip the strap a bit to have more flexibility, and bend in the proper direction
(https://a.d-cd.net/MyL0V6esMrz78Jf2euELSkSrduc-1920.jpg)
Done
(https://a.d-cd.net/OtNYMCLcvP2fbZ19CabcSAZiu_A-1920.jpg)
Simple flaring tool
(https://a.d-cd.net/O_T4L0C-LZAfYGAJ2V6nGYmZUp0-1920.jpg)
Mushroom flare type. By the way, both types of flares are used on this car as well as both imperial and metric inverted nuts for the brake lines!!!
(https://a.d-cd.net/BjLMUa7sNZF6eQPHW7H9xEqiVgk-1920.jpg)
Anti-lock brake system assembly
(https://a.d-cd.net/jC-j_WG2yGUnaJ6TZpVW21GnvnY-1920.jpg)
Installed
(https://a.d-cd.net/RF4EDuEH9c_owqiogPygTLTitSE-1920.jpg)
Start wrenching the pipes
(https://a.d-cd.net/1TmoBJUix8Bf7HhQvqlmqllYB6I-1920.jpg)
All done
(https://a.d-cd.net/ab_CSXr6trxBcPloK2hTlSuzPX0-1920.jpg)
Here is the vinyl protector against shortcut between the tube and ABS positive terminal. Factory solution
(https://a.d-cd.net/4s3KQSsISpK9uh2XEkekvWxTZAQ-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/6rC7rt4B37GYiUpz1pML6tD2szE-1920.jpg)
New line to the right wheel
(https://a.d-cd.net/B7wVOw55odHWaauC_tObvfdzePQ-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/BQAkG227mhPzfDQtSQEJV5Mfve4-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/FMCwjzEflV9v0kisWoMLczzYdgk-1920.jpg)
Brake lines to the rear wheels
(https://a.d-cd.net/yfuWVGo2UBzviGnCNrK1eBWHMis-1920.jpg)
I don't know why, but this is the correct bending... Factory pipes were also not just straight along the frame
(https://a.d-cd.net/YOfuBVrLyQ9lW1FPAUOzeZU1zxM-1920.jpg)
New fuel filter and wiring to the ABS sensors and suspension level
(https://a.d-cd.net/w-9Vwp1PcJMieuxwkTj33v-EfMI-1920.jpg)
There will be a connection with rear brakes hoses
(https://a.d-cd.net/vesueFdwJnO-eGCl3U9WdUdNsRY-1920.jpg)
Terminal for the rear right ABS sensor
(https://a.d-cd.net/Zhoyp43JSWn6ZjwAsdNxj-ya-Ww-1920.jpg)
EVAP line
(https://a.d-cd.net/bwRNz19oGrjj7pU8fLAVn3GKYDc-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/VewL71aLP05DWtuRIbYRRPcLJm4-1920.jpg)
Almost ready to connect body with the frame
(https://a.d-cd.net/vP1IBfF0ieghiFQHiR0a0Cq4ROA-1920.jpg)
Hardware
(https://a.d-cd.net/-87NqRiuI9aSEDdHKNlOTM8ZhU8-1920.jpg)
More hardware
(https://a.d-cd.net/6iLT_VGL88qKvuX9khg4FlUpmko-1920.jpg)
After powder coating
(https://a.d-cd.net/SXc9qfOHJ57CjypTeaWEJxvf-d8-1920.jpg)
New frame bushings
(https://a.d-cd.net/0lYHkG6F2tbBLLhgaB4Zgywvrik-1920.jpg)
Steering shaft assembly. I had two of them. there was a need to replace the boot from one to another
(https://a.d-cd.net/jnUCpBoo4GaLRzXjaT7il77xu_E-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/vHgS3B_Tjr96rgoD-_p7YSeCfTY-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/IYPWeRkDZE9r-dSrjMyUN4LEcVs-1920.jpg)
Ready to be installed
(https://a.d-cd.net/2ROvRsiwrGt6pYF_KDObDKGIGhc-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/WV6FahKniXATV_8H38vxzonxquc-1920.jpg)
Cracked boot
(https://a.d-cd.net/cQ8Ue0D642VOI3AGZQt8kDb5ay4-1920.jpg)
More parts have returned from the powder coating.
Good morning,
Spectacular job. What is equally impressive is you did it outside the US. I can't imagine the difficulty you had sourcing parts.
I like your indicator mount. My mill has been idle for a couple of weeks. Time to give it some exercise.
We had a '96 Brougham for many years. SAme color, It was fast, reliable, easy on fuel, 22-23 highway, 14-15 in town and uber comfortable. When we sold it in 2016 it had 266,000 miles on it. Very little oil consumption, a quart every 5000 miles when it got changed. No drive train problems. Normal maintenance items and few electrical glitches. We live in mountain country. Six percent grade,four people,sixty miles per hour,wanna go faster,simply press the foot feed a little harder. No drama.
My wife drove it and as we got older it became ,in her words,"difficult to dock". She drives a Northstar engined Deville now.
Congrats on a fabulous job.
tony
Wedding
(https://a.d-cd.net/C-vYE4mUQEM6ApbuRghjlUzZf54-1920.jpg)
All 16 washers for the body mounts were sandblasted
(https://a.d-cd.net/p1MRe9uewNsFAvnyjG9l8sAUKDk-1920.jpg)
Then they were painted in correct blue original color. The picture does not represent the true shade
(https://a.d-cd.net/D0rKAqyLTbbLEsAE2yGVDM0TBf8-1920.jpg)
New bushings and powder-coated mushroom type sleeves
(https://a.d-cd.net/S-lEcertbTvTd7BbKpWQ7IrAvGI-1920.jpg)
Here they are. All marked
The sequence is the following (one side, from front to the back): D2, D3, D1, D2, D3, D3, D3
(https://a.d-cd.net/jBFP2aU_XG33vziMBUykKwBzWH8-1920.jpg)
Put them in the correct sequence
(https://a.d-cd.net/k7PTZ64pSdtAzMMAJlE6HewPtNI-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/wDKidrAA1Sy1oj2hoKZU4UTs094-1920.jpg)
Start lifting the frame with 2 jacks. One in the front, one under the rear crossmember
(https://a.d-cd.net/PJ17Mom4eFM95GzgvoFIDmUn1Ck-1920.jpg)
Alignment pin = socket extender with 1/2" square
(https://a.d-cd.net/1I-JSnmvKJCD96nTmo8VNlY2USw-1920.jpg)
Another jack
(https://a.d-cd.net/qa3iB-bRLz1MRE78QfAVuCJIAjM-1920.jpg)
And another alignment pin
(https://a.d-cd.net/LTItyctwmKL2yVOByFhjVkYMAec-1920.jpg)
Tighten to the frame @ 70Nm
Rear suspension
(https://a.d-cd.net/YI2J15XM8mB0Rm6fbSePd_mCAdY-1920.jpg)
Two sets of lower arms. One set was enforced
(https://a.d-cd.net/vx9j2-L4f_3MW6ovoO74boGig8I-1920.jpg)
Like this
(https://a.d-cd.net/7R1l3T8yBH1MTe3AH3v6ZV5G81Q-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/B5uETRBSLMXJS6_o-ZVVDryVXyo-1920.jpg)
Also, these arms are really weak near the bushings. We have enforced it there as well
(https://a.d-cd.net/lL6LzKyq_3JsdGEnBX-1N5cm8es-1920.jpg)
According to the Manual, you need to flare the bushing sleeves in 3 places at 120 degrees
(https://a.d-cd.net/kKVsVxL6wFGzh3K-eHZwG5jkirg-1920.jpg)
New coil springs and new washers
(https://a.d-cd.net/UuJS9kShEG36EucAuYTLh3x9hHc-1920.jpg)
Use polyurethane glue to secure the washers
(https://a.d-cd.net/UHkeEzvR9s7Rp4EWivjfwg2_7C8-1920.jpg)
And... the car is on its wheels
(https://a.d-cd.net/AjHow6Cun5SFbAQySR54tSK-VRE-1920.jpg)
Bolts for sway bar
(https://a.d-cd.net/lDV0vUV6JbK-P8S5FulOIML_XyE-1920.jpg)
And here we go
(https://a.d-cd.net/WpvkQchmCeDxMyUo-Ue5K9tv4kQ-1920.jpg)
Take all the pieces from the shelf
(https://a.d-cd.net/WcdshvRE7B-UeWUeEcGJETpO47I-1920.jpg)
And put them back on a car
(https://a.d-cd.net/Re6WYoSYyCrYK4a40x0vQRZzHjE-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/ukPmXbiDbXwxz55U49CAo0x398Q-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/M0vgJ5ycMkIdI5CJ7EN8h_Qu3AI-1920.jpg)
Looks different from what it was
(https://a.d-cd.net/FlGWvhOv5mCgctsKR7RF6eWe6RA-1920.jpg)
The attentive reader will notice that the coils are put with the opposite side up ))) Not a big deal to change it
(https://a.d-cd.net/REystm1XN-NDYEt8uyTd9_8yBGo-1920.jpg)
Air lines connectors
(https://a.d-cd.net/G-l35getMwextIcGSlozSy3hR4g-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/LAb4-HIfsHahLbsZzYBzx3nrzWU-1920.jpg)
Against wear and noise
(https://a.d-cd.net/_MfMjyctkyZ5bHAag5xk3hGh04E-1920.jpg)
Hide them inside the frame
(https://a.d-cd.net/ZWcwLOMVQARf_bzpl-ITVV30AW4-1920.jpg)
Made extra pigtail
(https://a.d-cd.net/w98YGMYHCytECn5JDtuQbgufyhg-1920.jpg)
Airline in protective sleeve goes inside the frame
(https://a.d-cd.net/NDQdi7RjT6m5ecJzGNDzAfvG6QA-1920.jpg)
Bolts on the arms will be tightened once the car will have its full weight
(https://a.d-cd.net/F1JRLcbDH3FiZ9GsX0UJ88f664I-1920.jpg)
Front fender splash shields after powder coating in correct black satin
(https://a.d-cd.net/Kq2SXSRqXhdRYUTtbe6AjvCfBHc-1920.jpg)
I decided to coat them in anti-gravel + 2K clear coat from the wheel side
(https://a.d-cd.net/hDHn1rIiFoOc90HCG3ZIFguVqVU-1920.jpg)
At the same time I wanted to keep them just matte black from the engine bay side
(https://a.d-cd.net/Tq2BjNdfE-hEsrHfhs8txJHJQsw-1920.jpg)
The part that will be invisible inside the fender was also coated
(https://a.d-cd.net/bwmuyHFS5NbN8JI4z85uKQM5q-o-1920.jpg)
The edge of the anti-gravel is not equal to the edge of clearcoat. Clearcoat is broader
(https://a.d-cd.net/mLOQLc24PBtEgcU4eNx594X5byc-1920.jpg)
From inside
(https://a.d-cd.net/grb-wEiPBBwJW31YqKGDeQR7X88-1920.jpg)
Now fender assembly. Inner + outer parts
(https://a.d-cd.net/45emMN-UHIfwMEHaNUBe76BWV_E-1920.jpg)
Use simple pins to position parts correctly
(https://a.d-cd.net/eF9YOpgGwikgm6Tm544jU5QBMl0-1920.jpg)
New protective shields
(https://a.d-cd.net/WA0qYyQpvwYZghH2nNcrjftIa74-1920.jpg)
Meanwhile, power steering lines were secured at the front crossmember
(https://a.d-cd.net/UjsPMNN1sn2qKfaIoY827EEwu7I-1920.jpg)
Now fixing the firewall insulation. I used non-damaged piece from another insulation that I had
(https://a.d-cd.net/CtubtawilRkM2NHFiwK-RDBG018-1920.jpg)
And covered it with a special material
(https://a.d-cd.net/dcpQWXm8XT9pjkfGWLVPutbecWc-1920.jpg)
New butil sealer on heater pipes
(https://a.d-cd.net/nfaziRWdM30wOLFIxOPHWj_uvZU-1920.jpg)
Covered by the decorative square piece
(https://a.d-cd.net/guTsWBVZCiKJu15wEVuGVVBijis-1920.jpg)
And then I put the insulation back in place
(https://a.d-cd.net/Hoses5oNbJVV-gYaFvr3nK5CnMs-1920.jpg)
This part, which was restored, will be almost invisible after full assembly
(https://a.d-cd.net/6LBwGgc0ArNlymo6iNXXTwVwM8s-1920.jpg)
Not new (new is impossible to find), but still much better than before
(https://a.d-cd.net/STHZq7fV0aOdk9_VWsFkSnn7WWY-1920.jpg)
Front suspension goes to sandblasting and black powder coat
(https://a.d-cd.net/bB4Kd_OVoJhf0akNGKGjjmjrC80-1920.jpg)
This hardware goes to the zinc shop
Now let's turn our attention to the rear end...
(https://a.d-cd.net/OpC104POA3p7_EEQp1GMkSUukiQ-1920.jpg)
This is the damaged enforcement of the rear bumper
(https://a.d-cd.net/Ezy62bC-WTtxXbFDQX9TC3dwss0-1920.jpg)
Broken pieces that need to be fixed somehow...
(https://a.d-cd.net/ns2oAI7-3VgiXmDdZPz3T1-4giE-1920.jpg)
I used 2 pieces of MDF clamped to the enforcement, also I drilled many holes and put there 1/8" steel wires
(https://a.d-cd.net/9ZhM-RcPKTOzBy3sgyLXTwsvWVg-1920.jpg)
Prepared for the epoxy cure
(https://a.d-cd.net/aI2YV1rN3uRNt2viQf_V5afbJRg-1920.jpg)
This channel will be filled with epoxy
(https://a.d-cd.net/M4MeEkQ_rpwT9VJ-swZJC26PpdY-1920.jpg)
Mixing
(https://a.d-cd.net/cUc4Xu64dYFJExQgVZ1F6wxksas-1920.jpg)
Syringe will be used for pouring
(https://a.d-cd.net/ul2-0QgWPDev3CXJjhYBuxc6Yb8-1920.jpg)
Pouring process
(https://a.d-cd.net/CUlkhpkMJ4hqg2Z-YN54FXjIrJ4-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/3o3wr7Xopv_osIaSnXXfOJXlVbU-1920.jpg)
The remainings of the epoxy started to heat (hardening process), and rapidly the syringe had melted ))), which means that the epoxy is good
(https://a.d-cd.net/k_8f5LKm2CWO9D3l4AaeTQ-gfJc-1920.jpg)
Next day view
(https://a.d-cd.net/8gP8gjYlC60S_q70OoLVhxPlwY8-1920.jpg)
Exactly what I wanted to have
(https://a.d-cd.net/Zevl9Ob5ckbyxRTZs1kYAvh1dJE-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/YW0ZIx_SmD1zyJfOICZCoECOnhA-1920.jpg)
After some sanding
(https://a.d-cd.net/GCMEqueHK4AhK9u7-4Pqoej_niY-1920.jpg)
Ready for paint
(https://a.d-cd.net/v1QLknolh79_obFfahTTsvRVt7E-1920.jpg)
Painted in black matte
(https://a.d-cd.net/06nQJwyx7a2AFgvhiTNNFu1Q6NA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/x5n3AAZtd5OhSUlGkMeOffFJKPI-1920.jpg)
Hardware for the bumper assembly
(https://a.d-cd.net/K0ylBliMJ_71eNCk-kjQ3_cYxms-1920.jpg)
Installed on a car
(https://a.d-cd.net/nooZ9qUabkFKLIL7zO8RlNKNKfo-1920.jpg)
The enforcement looks good
(https://a.d-cd.net/7SP4VNHaYKcjPAeDQ4q7shFVLuA-1920.jpg)
Almost as new...
(https://a.d-cd.net/pSsXTiMgrWpto24mbtcOyp_td-c-1920.jpg)
Right rear quarter chrome panel installed
Front suspension
(https://a.d-cd.net/d61bnCMtXUdzo1dKC2lxncDBBas-1920.jpg)
Some parts after powder coating
(https://a.d-cd.net/Ijz-Ze3W2PCwOFZKA8pZSXmtxNc-1920.jpg)
Some NOS parts from 1980-s (Cadillac and Chevrolet suspensions were unchanged in 80-90-s)
(https://a.d-cd.net/QHrDM-jsG6hOY4tKGR1hmvRpg_8-1920.jpg)
Instructions
(https://a.d-cd.net/JpeyFCUStDW14JMzMrB1sgHUDiQ-1920.jpg)
Ball joints
(https://a.d-cd.net/oAa3u_KnrKpchtZejaqRy6z2yIo-1920.jpg)
Installation of bushings
(https://a.d-cd.net/K0-7h01C7A-JG1rIO0f6kay1PuA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/SdGarYXNAb9ovvOra6OfvZA-DPE-1920.jpg)
Installed
(https://a.d-cd.net/feHxJ5TQf_ypw9fGgu0lk9STv6Q-1920.jpg)
Ball joints have orientation
(https://a.d-cd.net/xqHh2VogcYRb1jnBZSUz3i8ItkE-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/yAy_8KNctWBghzQvVVyj4Zg7aaE-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/VICK2QC6fhJzkck4pB2hSyc9uo4-1920.jpg)
Ready to go
(https://a.d-cd.net/1mjC7ZeyyHcz3E6cQIl6v_lFdes-1920.jpg)
Lower arms bushings
(https://a.d-cd.net/Hw6kqo_F6-94IoDS8obCzAGxnoY-1920.jpg)
Using special spacers in order not to damage the arm
(https://a.d-cd.net/9RfKulNTLPjFqXHhJVM4B6Nz0eE-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/IAEgqBtYWFWV4AG33nHEyu9rVl4-1920.jpg)
Pressing in
(https://a.d-cd.net/EyDFpcH1zOZHsYyKP2a5Pt4tGD8-1920.jpg)
Mount inboard
(https://a.d-cd.net/TjiTPXs4HwVrycqU8LrEq2DvQ2s-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/Chr_Fydla88xRROEit7OtAoGXNU-1920.jpg)
Coils are specific for Fleetwood and are different from Chevrolet
(https://a.d-cd.net/6M9uATo6uweSgdfuebg3YrmnJNE-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/EuMGZki_AuupRXeP5KwzFZ5tfps-1920.jpg)
Mercedes-Benz spring compressor
(https://a.d-cd.net/p1PlXg2nA00Z0vbOBVMWepIbI9U-1920.jpg)
New bearings and seals
(https://a.d-cd.net/WV9VJmMryCY_cw6_-8Qm0tQQCSI-1920.jpg)
Adjusted as per manual
(https://a.d-cd.net/ccGJbVo0eRXrbNwIjhdsl6Enu8c-1920.jpg)
New caps
(https://a.d-cd.net/AUue6LVWGs8jfHdMuThPIks-s4w-1920.jpg)
and press it in using the tool
(https://a.d-cd.net/JraZnj93tMietyfWXch_0UHYLwg-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/oa4QO_SdKPmGoAs8yUMPT_dMdPo-1920.jpg)
Brake pads - Raybestos Element3 - the best in class
(https://a.d-cd.net/JxNhrwUnSspSKathwxCYxGIEwfU-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/9FP47CXDpjQc3GyFD1GlBg3fjKM-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/BF3mWV24aghHMYhz0mUPnxtFZEw-1920.jpg)
These pictures do not need any comments
(https://a.d-cd.net/oX9BH24TEu0rPA__GS-azRxRCW0-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/Gf8uFUK6sEau5ODbTfmXsL0zvQk-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/IBkNQ4eHupt1BJreOXTSd8r4zvQ-1920.jpg)
Shocks that are excellent for Fleetwood. Both steering and soft ride in one can
(https://a.d-cd.net/uzUeZ2jHimmNYNkQYT1HRPeEZ4I-1920.jpg)
How about that?
(https://a.d-cd.net/eK0kn5C-OnauUUohkR3wd65VgqY-1920.jpg)
Scroll to what it was before
(https://a.d-cd.net/OdH-Uvo_Yg8N7KsrU7hsAGJp5HY-1920.jpg)
Tightening torques
(https://a.d-cd.net/ErQdJ4ihs-F_3fcliAcREpSV3CQ-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/dLcaXT4nFo7TuO9f-FB0Bc9pRcA-1920.jpg)
Correct orientation of steering links
(https://a.d-cd.net/5tZ9GVkN6vD7pHWijzqv4mvcatE-1920.jpg)
Idler arm correct adjustment
(https://a.d-cd.net/UWEsZqpS1M7Pxef5-IVk3UHmGAg-1920.jpg)
Hello, Ukraine. That was done in January 2022
(https://a.d-cd.net/iCcyTBBODkduHneeai7bhizGThs-1920.jpg)
Mark all the bolts and nuts to easy monitor if they become loose
(https://a.d-cd.net/XOL7bMYI8q5NfQquYM4wwr-q_F8-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/RSs2MyXapkuMjXWRMw4pVzPkiks-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/-OmKvRyh7poctH0kumt25RYhT8c-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/1Br4mSqQhoZi7xxQZU9DHX5sVfY-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/EUgke-v60iwC4xJXbyeZFXWVVtY-1920.jpg)
On wheels again
(https://a.d-cd.net/lHglYQZhoUY4eYgiDZi_73QKkPk-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/4CxpckYA88US0_vNglis6jA0rX8-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/bdxx9hCOR_wPJwdgXYWfQ9Sc52k-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/NoaQq2GQjo4AaOCYDp7soIEkLqU-1920.jpg)
Impressive discipline and workmanship. As you roll out these images, it's clear that you left nothing untouched.
Now start working on engine
Water pump: I had a new ACDelco "Made in China", though I decided to reuse the one that was on a car, as the pump was changed not long ago by he previous owner, and it was GM Genuine
(https://a.d-cd.net/Kittrl2busuVF-kAdGex4I3g1XY-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/eyNekzD4WhB1UYFd-4pTy6ud-Dg-1920.jpg)
However, the o-ring had to be replaced
(https://a.d-cd.net/y9zXotJf4ebA2_yyl5ucux4psuo-1920.jpg)
New o-ring must be 2.4mm thick ~0.1"
(https://a.d-cd.net/U3dRpfIoDF6mVMGQ0vD9l6Uthlo-1920.jpg)
Bolts after black plating
(https://a.d-cd.net/HpRNq4OQcWuBqhn6188lbtq7S04-1920.jpg)
Ready
(https://a.d-cd.net/2NyhnqNc3ZdJ_swVvwfMiuDCjBY-1920.jpg)
Throttle body was almost ok
(https://a.d-cd.net/TquO6SsiCZHu-9q35WJFLbyCAy0-1920.jpg)
But still needs to be inspected
(https://a.d-cd.net/JtatLMPmTcZBKI-qLWONoguWULE-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/j1tUuE8yyl_yrq9pfTsh01lhnVQ-1920.jpg)
Washing and cleaning process
(https://a.d-cd.net/Eiy_ouYkBiDsFqq0W16c9oLwvw4-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/f_vsirEye2uiMa4GuEEbt9t1v6U-1920.jpg)
Now it's clean inside and outside, new gaskets installed
(https://a.d-cd.net/qYGXmdTXEuxTxGc8DpgWnmJKst0-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/AAp6uCRZ5Rk5BNB9s1OGvrvaYR8-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/GybQg5JbkxbLAL5HxpN1Ypaufcs-1920.jpg)
New engine mounts installed, but the engine is not ready yet
(https://a.d-cd.net/_SmNZ3DzVX09b4gO2xVQNVHyIQg-1920.jpg)
Some stuff goes to replating
(https://a.d-cd.net/8rXxdh0Oalf1xmwhNO8T82epPHE-1920.jpg)
Received
(https://a.d-cd.net/S6KFCZyPbjsCuNtETh7RuT5JhoQ-1920.jpg)
Intake manifold studs in the proper order
(https://a.d-cd.net/HGppqZflkjRmtxycARtmp7TaNro-1920.jpg)
Dirty
(https://a.d-cd.net/ijgrRt1Elg2-5LGqvuFR4MoKTEk-1920.jpg)
Start washing with high Ph chemistry
(https://a.d-cd.net/wqwaAeEJxl30FHKK0oujxJc2DmE-1920.jpg)
Done
(https://a.d-cd.net/jVvMqZuD5e8DyDqke1Naw_292SM-1920.jpg)
The best I could do
(https://a.d-cd.net/3oXRhvpEANbkPrunDAAi4X9YWjM-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/B_rpopVMfFxm0m53awDV7EcJg6I-1920.jpg)
Intake has many internal passages, which were hard to reach, but I tried
(https://a.d-cd.net/T6_wlS4fwRb8ZYELebNYHHxrs2M-1920.jpg)
Inside view
(https://a.d-cd.net/1z_Ii7iUXAJc3aD1W5cUixH1Ks8-1920.jpg)
Thread sealant for the plugs
(https://a.d-cd.net/0Fn9EeoKLh50vSmATxeHMNcacGQ-1920.jpg)
Lower plate mounting
(https://a.d-cd.net/Watau-CzTgFCHmQoIYg3nZr8R1I-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/THHDisJjaFfW86r_y2-6Sq5DJqs-1920.jpg)
The top stripes were polished
(https://a.d-cd.net/fBR4zWxGbL49x2KbPCKh34Hrm8o-1920.jpg)
Installing brackets after paint job
(https://a.d-cd.net/zLUsNMNw2Dnv1TtqEMbMIrxo078-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/qE-ad3GC4jer8cuqf_glAjvGPHY-1920.jpg)
PCV valve
(https://a.d-cd.net/Za2CeplMfJejNehZon2dDOaVqwM-1920.jpg)
All vacuum plastic tubes were cracked. I replaced them with steel tubes and rubber fuel-resistant hoses
(https://a.d-cd.net/S5J41jw92c-EJ7ppEu5yBqFnaNc-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/cG4s8FaQ3ZxUg1IkUMEp9o0LJ-s-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/MSzCsWfchbx4FL_t7R9xTifBfyE-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/8qH7sHkzjiMQiHqdE_k8BOfo-zM-1920.jpg)
With fuel injector nozzles after ther were washed on ultra-sonic setup and tested for the productivity and leaks
(https://a.d-cd.net/7rFKNCf0vsNdtoMBEVGB1f9Nffk-1920.jpg)
Of course, new o-rings were used for the fuel ramp
One more component for today: Ignition
(https://a.d-cd.net/nMR36EbsYGNvIbYaP1CSsn4dYzg-1920.jpg)
Rusted and corroded central electrode
(https://a.d-cd.net/L-53z4v6K4MsPX5dBbVy7NCbLxc-1920.jpg)
New coil, brackets after replating
(https://a.d-cd.net/xELloxZoSzncFeGNAqdgrIT0mpc-1920.jpg)
Ignition module needs good cooling, otherwise LT1 will not work
(https://a.d-cd.net/KiuvQoIsYxwuapHmUdme1s_uYsU-1920.jpg)
I decided to use stainless hardware instead of original steel rivets
(https://a.d-cd.net/9_KNq8DnYA7uub_mFW7hq00hBTY-1920.jpg)
Assembled.
(https://a.d-cd.net/Zv8rqnD769XJclvpxxSKlJAYw94-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/j6LZ5icAatbQfwHFaThYTGfVDIY-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/52IhIODLUv4dc85L9a8DD-TOFzI-1920.jpg)
Harmonic balancer
(https://a.d-cd.net/3HgBsLAZx-jwcWKK0vZFxGm1ugU-1920.jpg)
Underbody assembly
(https://a.d-cd.net/3abOxUKhLi4XqDigIuLNYK_i38A-1920.jpg)
New brake hoses on rear axle - installed
(https://a.d-cd.net/ehPo5tzHRenbCWlN8MV_UuORW74-1920.jpg)
They come in protective sleeves
(https://a.d-cd.net/D-xG_O0xICbUKGEHBpv2FwSLOHg-1920.jpg)
Install the brake booster and connect all lines
(https://a.d-cd.net/GDcCtOQjnekOBYvkkXYLt9OSIII-1920.jpg)
Now ready to install the fuel tank. 1/8" rubber was used as an insulator
(https://a.d-cd.net/jtMsdtgwEg87lIUEPkNmR4GQ7LI-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/6xXxUbZhAeEUWtWSVihPrwBDGR0-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/XnlLac0jJUWijPvNvHW9wD-zk40-1920.jpg)
Looks new
(https://a.d-cd.net/eTW1UcP-7ltuv7oo_jiv1skBWZc-1920.jpg)
Connect fuel lines to the sender unit
(https://a.d-cd.net/dDrKVNcGqDI7Z1yCETVIN-8J8aw-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/3rhYasEK8-fWmvxCYYnTZ6cHbOk-1920.jpg)
Ready to install heat shields
(https://a.d-cd.net/-kYLmgeVKyh1KwrCL2r8DKkf3jA-1920.jpg)
Two in the front
(https://a.d-cd.net/cm3aeBYwK8EN6kYA4Rk7Bc--cGY-1920.jpg)
Two above mufflers in the center
(https://a.d-cd.net/PV_olihTJ5bB0Sgq5gBP7cQ7rWw-1920.jpg)
And two in the rear protecting the fuel tank
(https://a.d-cd.net/bHD1eYL-Z0T_aTLYqLeIIBMrml0-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/g1GdshUpxknM9WjTte2mwSnlVlY-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/V_bgWXfy-9d881R2Efrr9avDuJE-1920.jpg)
With firewall insulation above
(https://a.d-cd.net/gv1kCrHdtCuQJZX2cS2ATOsNE50-1920.jpg)
Some additional techno-porno
(https://a.d-cd.net/QJXJXVSoEUTWpT-S_8VHwQ5-FAk-1920.jpg)
Shock and frame bushing
(https://a.d-cd.net/XPEQFMu9_CMjx4N0REEdiXziBEE-1920.jpg)
Left muffler hanger
(https://a.d-cd.net/G0Bf0Ow1JwqWgV0dPgchGy46Yog-1920.jpg)
Overall view
(https://a.d-cd.net/0CIHdrtP33DgFZV4Fye_YuwQQk4-1920.jpg)
Clean inside the shop and get ready to work with the engine
(https://a.d-cd.net/zSLzPxZk_pl7zPr5gRL-I1ddB5o-1920.jpg)
Some hardware for the future posts
Engine LT1 350 cid @ 265 hp
I'd like to make a small disclaimer so there's no confusion about what I'm doing with the engine.
Over two seasons and roughly 500 miles of total driving, I've kept a close eye on the car. The engine has proven to be in perfectly good condition. There is no oil consumption, the exhaust pipes are free of buildup and actually show some rust inside, there are no unusual sounds, the power is excellent, and the ignition and injection systems are functioning as intended. Tearing into an engine like that for anything beyond basic gasket and seal replacement is just childish curiosity along the lines of "I wonder what's inside".
(https://a.d-cd.net/QqkJXcD8J2yRWGRha1MY9lyQALU-1920.jpg)
Take the engine from the "parking lot"
(https://a.d-cd.net/Bc0r3owkXr1PQkuz3i1AszPUrLY-1920.jpg)
And start washing it
(https://a.d-cd.net/Q8tOq5kjDSwEqZ_Oi1Fat4PS6yg-1920.jpg)
Let it dry, let it dry, let it dry
(https://a.d-cd.net/54jxj02P_yZYuulpuk52648iKDg-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/ZAklB8dSiyt1lx0MBzsb7Ba1G6o-1920.jpg)
With a steel wire brush on an angle grinder, I have removed all the unconsolidated rust from the engine
(https://a.d-cd.net/ahzwOHyOchxi5KtKHeLMIig9cXY-1920.jpg)
Then I took special high temperature paint over rust cast iron, and made 2 coats
(https://a.d-cd.net/xSRDsIebpdoscpYJyFXBH5xZR90-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/57zj7Xx1ydTzZNJ4y8jMfI1k8hw-1920.jpg)
I rotated the crank to the vertical dead point of 6-th cylinder, and removed the balancer, marking the correct position
(https://a.d-cd.net/mBarJ9ZWgyedm7Y5XewuKxDxTmY-1920.jpg)
Bath for internal cleaning
(https://a.d-cd.net/XRQx0DeDwZZJkesX5FQkj_5OLdc-1920.jpg)
Some deposits and sludge over the last 25 years
(https://a.d-cd.net/FVgEYZOsg_hqF3mkuaKDRCichac-1920.jpg)
Different types of chemistry + brush + patience give the result
(https://a.d-cd.net/d5vE3kuG6C6ureo2O5whIQg_0p8-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/1PKG0nwKCkrNA78K8kmQa7XkYFQ-1920.jpg)
Some parts for the engine and other
(https://a.d-cd.net/8ce4xNWp3LtjzxOlgdLIyOMTsnI-1920.jpg)
Cracked flywheel
(https://a.d-cd.net/bo96bZjhOXf-XiZtDmiEaowcOKw-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/CnqfUlaglOqtha1zJr6VCaocikc-1920.jpg)
The left manifold's fasteners were converted from 3/8-inch to M10 due to a previous "hack job." The only fix was to re-tap the holes to the nearest metric size, since the closest inch thread was too far off nominal. One of the second-to-last holes in the head was so badly damaged that it needed to be tapped M11×1.5. Because ARP doesn't make M11 bolts, I bought a set of M12×1.5 bolts and turned one down to M11
(https://a.d-cd.net/t7eQQwRX1hnyKeV4hkhnci3zXnM-1920.jpg)
But finally it was looking almost good
(https://a.d-cd.net/XofZkW_mXrhkRFTTIhf6A5qxDsI-1920.jpg)
New gaskets
(https://a.d-cd.net/touRMXVI7Rw6qribn9EOoawhkek-1920.jpg)
Covers after powder coating
(https://a.d-cd.net/mTn8nEAKdFerkyN4G7fHb4F4YOs-1920.jpg)
Wash all stickers
(https://a.d-cd.net/bHzykZy8I4LVzkV9AVOVfRTn2_4-1920.jpg)
And mount both headers on the engine
(https://a.d-cd.net/9uYNqMnKdE0Aq-bseBvw-3uHORQ-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/e5if72LYX7cHMum6FnprUquUUUE-1920.jpg)
I used FelPro gasket kit, and I was pretty happy with it
(https://a.d-cd.net/fd8CUtC-V14qfBxZQBaGs8qpp3c-1920.jpg)
Both o-rings on the oil filler extension tube and the cap were replaced
(https://a.d-cd.net/57GCRWky8vJW_n5Jg9XNPMe0Dpc-1920.jpg)
New connector
(https://a.d-cd.net/85cSwkpVEIjztBbEGDZDAAT0Tj0-1920.jpg)
Comes to the PCV system
(https://a.d-cd.net/8-JEtdu7EqsWwOU6s-LIsBH0RZg-1920.jpg)
Oil pan with new level sensor
(https://a.d-cd.net/8cwvY5vyDROKBCdBLBOOy92-QVg-1920.jpg)
Clean inside, shining outside
(https://a.d-cd.net/KDwWljcbEgIelxEr6sVHpdrG-TA-1920.jpg)
Guides for the oil pan
(https://a.d-cd.net/XPfxBwMrXamoc5JYU2sjyEM5pio-1920.jpg)
Manual says that there is a need in engine polyurethane sealant in the corners
(https://a.d-cd.net/hVdEv5AFwZGQtxQBTppvoLXAAJI-1920.jpg)
Oil pan bolts and nuts after plating
(https://a.d-cd.net/zwMU08ILr3PpmwgDWRAhGXqcSl0-1920.jpg)
And this is how guides help to put all together
(https://a.d-cd.net/OIvH3tOUAOlvxaymJIF6wz-Jl3A-1920.jpg)
Ensure that the pan is set correctly
(https://a.d-cd.net/KDjXE7peOrbcmdaDJkTqX8o0yTk-1920.jpg)
New seal gasket on the level sensor
(https://a.d-cd.net/gH-1oJiNw1DOLZlgCpO3_8-Uylo-1920.jpg)
Tightened
(https://a.d-cd.net/_bM6fN--1TnRemcyRszg7otZiSU-1920.jpg)
New knock sensors
(https://a.d-cd.net/-oP-GAcuJCtvjiXt3lbIfa-TZMw-1920.jpg)
Optispark seal was damaged (and I guess it happened on assembly line), but there were no leaks there
(https://a.d-cd.net/_xY4d5MiOtekQ5OYxuFxV59Z15A-1920.jpg)
New teflon seal. No lubrication is needed!
(https://a.d-cd.net/sGSRD0ADZDHSh3Dk0eJhrVaUyxc-1920.jpg)
Pressing the front hub int
(https://a.d-cd.net/KTRijy3Z2Ic2R5cWyP-XAircW6o-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/GwcsdMmE8OsnvhxOLNE8FVjOf4M-1920.jpg)
New spark plugs
(https://a.d-cd.net/05cwMBYbTIdnxN_gcEsea1xD5mI-1920.jpg)
New AC Delco GM Genuine wires
(https://a.d-cd.net/GmL5ndXzj4wftyX4UcL3lAtxg_w-1920.jpg)
Just for the reference
(https://a.d-cd.net/KePrIPQb6bjK32jlUOxwzKC-by0-1920.jpg)
Optispark vent connections
(https://a.d-cd.net/yDSoRSaKzZPChepLqiVA459tdZI-1920.jpg)
Vent hoses for ignition, which are critical for its functionality
(https://a.d-cd.net/NNwKprcYcyzg1pkoPQJ_e24aKUo-1920.jpg)
Air pump stainless tube after polishing
(https://a.d-cd.net/OQDzPAQxm4fintYQ-rn3cqdi3RI-1920.jpg)
Passenger side wires
(https://a.d-cd.net/k8_FiaV0ptk9ZkE1q9zr7gGdh0Q-1920.jpg)
Cylinders 6 and 8
(https://a.d-cd.net/qqLw-JEC3EOn3p4NVrqylfe8UM0-1920.jpg)
Correct routing
(https://a.d-cd.net/gw2RYiowLhLq-LRScxcvbrTDPuA-1920.jpg)
Driver side wires
(https://a.d-cd.net/3PmHUQo4d55IkwwhbXxZxpFxJr4-1920.jpg)
New oil cooler lines installed
(https://a.d-cd.net/0pseTybVdzcjmg-oYrm7ofciJ_0-1920.jpg)
I made threads in the drainage hole from the water pump, and screwed a piece of bended stainless tube. Reason: now in case of leaks the coolant will not go straight to the Optispark
(https://a.d-cd.net/GnVBF0NiuSAbd2eNWnp-yfEf_hA-1920.jpg)
I will put a hose here and let it go somewhere underneath the engine
(https://a.d-cd.net/SMXu8HnvUM1BG-xiNcZNCZbu0V0-1920.jpg)
New air pump
(https://a.d-cd.net/cLbbRh29SVmP_9fX2NxBCNf1aWw-1920.jpg)
Installed
(https://a.d-cd.net/UwY2r6mSjwJX-_f6xDUXRLhmwlM-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/JfOTJH5lf5Q6Nttf2uP48_hWYIw-1920.jpg)
Ignition module and coil
(https://a.d-cd.net/Ba9doL43fq7wT_cE_zU6o8y39bQ-1920.jpg)
Installing intake manifold
(https://a.d-cd.net/Q6l6CPD1BDFnfHfI-p5SRa0Zezo-1920.jpg)
New gaskets and polyurethane sealant
(https://a.d-cd.net/rN43Am-Z4PmmPDQKhdKBEz4hAGk-1920.jpg)
New throttle gasket
(https://a.d-cd.net/Mowf9StrbYHBl_fVrZuHv1mmGrM-1920.jpg)
Throttle heater
(https://a.d-cd.net/YTmGDpSlmjeJL-WsWJhC5Wy5V7Q-1920.jpg)
Gates 90 degree hose
(https://a.d-cd.net/w1xOTaSrQbxLkjsJ6zIvzz5jnJI-1920.jpg)
Just for the reference
(https://a.d-cd.net/1_0btn4y5Gfm1pt4bwGt-raqHa4-1920.jpg)
EGR valve gasket
(https://a.d-cd.net/peiryWUsOi9xr9etCaFb00UzNn8-1920.jpg)
Nice view
(https://a.d-cd.net/uaQB_6W07NJF9__aiYoBppSXBmE-1920.jpg)
New GM original rear main seal
(https://a.d-cd.net/vPkcxAo-TcDivvnsoUQPucyoBsY-1920.jpg)
Need to mention that I lubricated with ~1 pint of engine oil left side rockers, as they will be lacking until the pump will raise required amount of oil at the first start. Passenger side will be lubricated once you fill the engine with oil
(https://a.d-cd.net/VXn1dY92ug1DSBNvfnG_rxl_5Vk-1920.jpg)
Finally, all the torques
(https://a.d-cd.net/qoKht0W7woFJRQ4OG2J5tSJc4SU-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/oUHIeh3j5ffvYN7vbggT1dISXF8-1920.jpg)
Over two seasons and roughly 500 miles of total driving, I've kept a close eye on the car. The engine has proven to be in perfectly good condition... Tearing into an engine like that for anything beyond basic gasket and seal replacement is just childish curiosity along the lines of "I wonder what's inside".
You certainly attended to wear and service life issue though!
LT1 at its beauty
(https://a.d-cd.net/WAwH9dxagMukC8TVvEcWUOOxuLU-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/_GRwwGRf1OHm5PKL8WDPp7rE2dk-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/0hkLL2HgRmi7VVtzkkQfkOH-sag-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/P-TO65e7-u0beQNEN3jpw5x7oh0-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/zEq_kSsG7ce-7PbewesM_elvnOY-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/tnC6VJJMy0wE-BMOjWws8YN5VNs-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/i863itorij-8u_1L9a1ip1k71ys-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/cPwHOxkysuD5g_nUmmEgISVm2To-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/FTCwgQ2WEz7kHLNyFddRibsI0BA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/dA6fgcMeWo_RvmGfvxQQgYD7OqM-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/2YP3P4TvB3q_IgxGs8i8M6NBp5I-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/Ed926twIxtcDXwnSM8YBR-m358A-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/tAyqlEDL7fy18eVX7-ZJTt9U0qU-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/FQmeLGtI5fj9nBmTnblrKjFkVnM-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/yUsqQvgw9Jgp7bWruSBIy-FUHjI-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/PvJwwf02Cm__mbTBLNZOjvgFyHg-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/Qr03gIBeDppRixf5T-xHL2FoGKk-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/a_No-UFgm-SZItO3cA_W6ziwFx8-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/bmnbbFQ9Nol_A5Lk1As8AQBDMBM-1920.jpg)
Front clip
So, the engine is in place, and now it's time to reassemble the front end so our dragster turns back into a car.
First, I install the radiator support (loosely mounting it on its frame pads). There were original factory shims between the pads and the frame, so for now, I'm using the same number of shims on each side as before. Next, I set the splash shields in place, bolting them loosely to the body and the radiator support—nothing should be fully tightened yet.
After the splash shields, the assembled front fenders go on. I loosely attach them to the body, the splash shields, and the radiator support. Nothing will fully line up until the hood is in place, so everything has room to shift around.
In practice, it all looks something like this:
(https://a.d-cd.net/CgA7CdtGpzV4bSocJHslwsCbDbg-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/curtLil0517ATM4P8O8jQg2U21A-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/sUEDrGKzqn9WscTSaMaJ6CaKK8E-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/3GotbU26rGUOvmVV5EkBCuQuQO4-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/FR3O9LBTbj1VvYYl3I2WJfot-oA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/-nL8s3tE7Q7pA6FJRRZLCcinRfY-1920.jpg)
There were four of us to attach the hood
(https://a.d-cd.net/QA4cTEDtfjIlgo5WvSC0qXPZT8Q-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/1oIDTnoAke2KNZktKIGamxm6Esg-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/qzvMtaLh8Ay8AKVmPN5nQYv6T0g-1920.jpg)
These will be replaced
(https://a.d-cd.net/4sM6ax5ttTx-X8jeIV3oQV3zrQg-1920.jpg)
With these...
(https://a.d-cd.net/gaAcnbBq5BmingGdva4WRgOoDOw-1920.jpg)
I used new original GM bolts for these bodies
(https://a.d-cd.net/tPjBbWciYSzgbV41YYk9Z7R7-FQ-1920.jpg)
Final alignments
(https://a.d-cd.net/NkWYyZuUGJlxSHIpH8X9WP92a3Q-1920.jpg)
Gaps match
(https://a.d-cd.net/FRfwJKML1bxr-34oqsYsxHg71LU-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/nfQU380D2yTzxlROOkyiCtPW2aw-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/Ud-x8Bc6Ifrt34YX6npc7wgLdJk-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/YNU4Qu1eVoYejQZK8YwkzlapKKM-1920.jpg)
Final result
(https://a.d-cd.net/ZaKOYZzQHblumSU211VP1yuSrtU-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/Bb3C0bG1aqdg5vRXlp4bEXZUoU4-1920.jpg)
Also, attach the front bumper cover and adjust it
(https://a.d-cd.net/JBDLf3lVh91x_kEqIB7I48EZ9YQ-1920.jpg)
New original clips
(https://a.d-cd.net/Sfdv5ZDpKjF_kMys16bpa2CYvNg-1920.jpg)
Engine bay
(https://a.d-cd.net/9S_TPX1A28URVFUacqF0Him163I-1920.jpg)
New headlights
(https://a.d-cd.net/-ssegfKwaQndFN75d6B1bVFLAUc-1920.jpg)
And new grill
(https://a.d-cd.net/TzH3OcI63pxXo29Ko-hloC8LA6A-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/OcTBvK1HRtePGZD-yUDaaQK3SP8-1920.jpg)
New transmission cooler line
(https://a.d-cd.net/CibhBaqb_zOUh9U91qTwvNigjDQ-1920.jpg)
in place
(https://a.d-cd.net/ba6T4zrNYU-8ODArgrEjHVaDVCc-1920.jpg)
Cruise control adjustment
Fleetwood is one of the last GM cars equipped with a mechanical throttle, so all those components like the traction control regulator (part of the traction control system) and cruise control operate differently than in more modern vehicles.
If you simply connect the gas pedal cable directly to the throttle, nothing good will come of it. That's why there are two intermediary interfaces in the "gas pedal – throttle" link. The first is the traction regulator mechanism, part of the traction control system introduced at the time. Its job is to choke the engine if excessive wheel spin occurs. The second is the cruise control module itself, which adds or reduces throttle input in place of the driver.
(https://a.d-cd.net/0Iv02j9ET0z432mSc7RoTLhwvqg-1920.jpg)
The gas cable runs from the cabin to the traction regulator. From the traction regulator, the cable goes to the throttle. A separate cable from the cruise control also attaches to the traction regulator. All 3 cables need adjustment.
(https://a.d-cd.net/plAIUpKZLf11BSD2pr4QlqjT8Qs-1920.jpg)
In simple words, two cables—one from a real driver and one from a "virtual" driver (cruise)—both want to control the throttle (yes, they're quite demanding!). At the same time, the traction regulator is part of the traction control system and must cut engine power at the PCM's command.
Few manual diagrams showing each component's function.
(https://a.d-cd.net/Dmawp2fzk9WyRSUV9H8D86tJW1I-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/VJeq9CdV05awLaytIPWaiS80-Jo-1920.jpg)
Adjustment
Adjusting these components means synchronizing all three cables so there's no unnecessary slack, and ensuring the throttle fully opens when you floor the gas pedal.
(https://a.d-cd.net/838QfZb-YjxcRY3pzIuj_OWgXWE-1920.jpg)
First, adjust the cable from the throttle to the traction regulator.
Press this button (requires decent finger pressure) and pull the cable's bowden out of the regulator.
(https://a.d-cd.net/B5wIlg4xgTTfWw3V7ei4XcqRhv8-1920.jpg)
See the pic for how the cable should look in the "non-adjusted" position.
(https://a.d-cd.net/FoJXlQBG3NGYmaSOO_7vQxOSYik-1920.jpg)
Next, insert a 3 mm drill bit all the way down through the stacked discs, then use a 1/4-inch drive tool to rotate the mechanism clockwise until it stops. Continue turning until you hear several clicks.
At this point, the accelerator cable is under tension. Check it by flooring the gas pedal: the throttle plate should fully open. If it does, the throttle cable is adjusted.
Then, adjust the cruise control cable.
(https://a.d-cd.net/wS-OL-nvfBsFnWSln17hkILbPLs-1920.jpg)
Flip the latch on the cruise cable, which loosens the bowden. Loosening the bowden = loosening the cable. Once loosened, snap the latch back in place.
(https://a.d-cd.net/C3-bdT_5mk3OoXoqFQKg1UEbpGg-1920.jpg)
While holding the throttle cable and the top disc of the regulator, pull the cruise cable just enough to remove any slack.
(https://a.d-cd.net/3bazxvlC9fWtlvNRVFCaS5vASyI-1920.jpg)
The manual shows the same process in a diagram.
(https://a.d-cd.net/umVOQcEu5KWZIls6W0MQnjQFpL8-1920.jpg)
That's it for the adjustments. With the pedal floored, the throttle plate fully opens, and the cruise cable has no extra slack that would cause "lag" while cruising.
Here are a few extra photos of the car in the garage:
(https://a.d-cd.net/5QW6qzU8djMHj9czGUWLkQa3I6A-1920.jpg)
Since the radiators aren't installed and fluids aren't filled, the front end sits higher than normal.
(https://a.d-cd.net/fKzs6e-JQo8ZxYRUcuv0bngUDSA-1920.jpg)
Sometimes, I play chess with my youngest.
(https://a.d-cd.net/wgYhcnQV2OSHioi9dz-EV8UWwOg-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/QrSSIpkP9VSoLoh3GtXm9bR3J6g-1920.jpg)
I've installed the PCM bracket and plugged in the PCM.
(https://a.d-cd.net/XJ6mzIbQXhXt7IrxGrNc6NCKrKo-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/FCRUe7fit2UupC3W7xvNHX6XP2g-1920.jpg)
Also hooked up the horns—four of them (two on the left, two on the right).
AC and Engine cooling lines assembly
(https://a.d-cd.net/74zZONyk2gADEvcBe9Km_Ktfkjc-1920.jpg)
Compressor was drained from the old oil. The oil was clear
(https://a.d-cd.net/V-NnpkQUMtIQfYx3QZogy-pb7hY-1920.jpg)
New oil
(https://a.d-cd.net/2pSsP0-1LnOzaVypbXS8tceT_wI-1920.jpg)
Old vs. new
(https://a.d-cd.net/t9YrnDdNd8zGzHkGLKcdwLbn5WE-1920.jpg)
Set of o-rings and seals for the HVAC
(https://a.d-cd.net/HY-GjqClQdwJXgG82kaa0Cu5pNw-1920.jpg)
Just in case if someone will need it
(https://a.d-cd.net/Ah5nogLidcA50u_KfC1xxlIjV-k-1920.jpg)
New pressure gauge and evaporator nozzle
(https://a.d-cd.net/7CDSMrcWMKW_YOaJUFJNeZUW5gU-1920.jpg)
New lines were sealed
(https://a.d-cd.net/SDlhm58d-8r4bTXg3Q9T-aTVjIM-1920.jpg)
Compressor installed, 240ml of new oil was added into compressor
(https://a.d-cd.net/tDTAU9VWaieWIvtfM-vBBc-oKWc-1920.jpg)
Attach new lines to the evaporator coil.
Note that the stitch where the firewall insulation was patched is almost invisible
(https://a.d-cd.net/5yZWLJdbP60BdiYU96y7Fujd0oI-1920.jpg)
New condenser installed
(https://a.d-cd.net/1swWZbpyJ51w1XbQBXA9L_xFzL4-1920.jpg)
15ml of oil was added into it
(https://a.d-cd.net/zPj0DcNbRS1YzIndo9DFJMwq_ao-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/irMq6MAqV1oFKs9Ew7AjKpdG_XE-1920.jpg)
New expansion cooler tank
(https://a.d-cd.net/UPnyvkPf3_7rD7Jr8irlynjWqJA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/82TpT0kTkSJtKtSbJOgqO_SU1EY-1920.jpg)
New radiator
(https://a.d-cd.net/oOLA4ubJU9C5La1p4oIjhrjsvfg-1920.jpg)
Installed
(https://a.d-cd.net/5cmFTjWnhSXZF29N2HOQ4T1ynmc-1920.jpg)
Air deflectors
(https://a.d-cd.net/UEfXUepqdXj-0yukFMRuDvcLBIM-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/9mpo8yMjDJ_VesXMyk-FCCVi3JI-1920.jpg)
Front shields
(https://a.d-cd.net/gqVmziVwdyl7ECFzqkReVQ8QW3E-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/P7dSYQNJaX61R8SqpGfkhPpbC5A-1920.jpg)
New accumulator
(https://a.d-cd.net/2tLz-C6lvPhI7hKO5jC8cNu8XD0-1920.jpg)
New labels
(https://a.d-cd.net/Szw6-gUWrt7wjcU5iOdhY8HZwXU-1920.jpg)
Installed
(https://a.d-cd.net/cLibMfJCsZlsPIatDdaM2yVHVoM-1920.jpg)
New accumulator needs 100ml of PAG46 oil
(https://a.d-cd.net/2YOqwhcTkqAZNtvU7c7CpKSuHXM-1920.jpg)
Fans
(https://a.d-cd.net/jVWCIqNDiBiTR-143j5jAZJDq3M-1920.jpg)
One motor was replaced with the new one
(https://a.d-cd.net/H2Yl3ffRkn_EHzt71Wm7PEEwAEw-1920.jpg)
Installed
(https://a.d-cd.net/MbDsAPqTvhEkOBNg9-TOD2pzT0M-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/xW_i0T3XFVUbGRDujm6yFv3vaSo-1920.jpg)
And here in the engine bay we have everything ready to go
(https://a.d-cd.net/mbqUYubSbnRwT5QGia0-70lmRu8-1920.jpg)
Now I will do some work with transmission - just a regular maintenance, nothing serious. Follow next posts.
Briefly about transmission 4L-60E
(https://a.d-cd.net/rfZLwHH9RoY-Zq1UaNYhK_AVjII-1920.jpg)
But first, it was time to install starter
(https://a.d-cd.net/L4A04i8eswQtwu9xF5AGxXW6J0k-1920.jpg)
Second - new license plate
(https://a.d-cd.net/OWAAAgEy--A-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/HfM2xnGGbiFd6nTziW178caR-44-1920.jpg)
Then - new splash shields on the front fenders. The original were cracked at some points, and the material is not elastic at all. I used 2mm fuel-resistant rubber sheets to make new. Looks even better than the original
(https://a.d-cd.net/sObyTpOvqW7FbsXVJOs1hH5ovIc-1920.jpg)
New one from rubber is in the center
(https://a.d-cd.net/7H8b2fzWoYC-1ZBgIMqXOWCRrpw-1920.jpg)
Installed
And now - transmission
(https://a.d-cd.net/lRi6IgbyJsjzyp4UNUKIS2m_wWY-1920.jpg)
Wash it
(https://a.d-cd.net/WwSTcqFkykaw5V2KYqGy3tXg20I-1920.jpg)
New seals
(https://a.d-cd.net/w9JxX3Bo-WnwAz2Z5_zbo89NyHM-1920.jpg)
Someone smart has used RTV for the rear end seal
(https://a.d-cd.net/ay0k8uF47ljkZhihanxtReY0z58-1920.jpg)
Pressing in the new brass sleeve
(https://a.d-cd.net/xWSHw5sga9ng_T2AQD8fHc_WFhc-1920.jpg)
This is how it goes
(https://a.d-cd.net/pYi_KhwfxndkzfPJx6uce2-YeY8-1920.jpg)
Installed
(https://a.d-cd.net/vQKzvRqTba0-rXPm0KfFT4oaCbw-1920.jpg)
Pressing in new seal
(https://a.d-cd.net/nDD5EIEef51kFJEx6dhhlCSYVWs-1920.jpg)
Installed and lubricated
(https://a.d-cd.net/R_a-5LKcz6CQFChi9LWPRk78we8-1920.jpg)
New o-ring for the speedometer reader
(https://a.d-cd.net/lPyB890Ryw70mzqvb24-9YeL4Q0-1920.jpg)
Front seal installation
(https://a.d-cd.net/44NkZy8L1Jyn83pKxOXfoXh4k1A-1920.jpg)
If you don't use the hammer, the seal will look and serve better
(https://a.d-cd.net/FlTfNlbZpMXgjAAWEWIGIptEzag-1920.jpg)
New Turbine wheel seal
(https://a.d-cd.net/3yCgybkJfaYUCVCEGJD0ceKfAlI-1920.jpg)
Ready to receive a torque converter
(https://a.d-cd.net/Nw8prb6R2duONAI-WXBgaWO5jn8-1920.jpg)
Old oil pan...
(https://a.d-cd.net/mD9-KU18TlNSspugws8ZHIush_k-1920.jpg)
New oil pan
(https://a.d-cd.net/T0NGudP0lWvWHj1jb5swOc1OQ3g-1920.jpg)
New cooler lines nuts
(https://a.d-cd.net/9xIlb-cafrvcG2z2g4Gjba0jEl4-1920.jpg)
The transmission was put on a car on the remembabale date February 24, 2022. There is a message to the "future generations" on the back side of the torque converter, which is not shown here
(https://a.d-cd.net/GZesG1B9VfYGoPPz2DDoMSOrD44-1920.jpg)
Torqued
(https://a.d-cd.net/56S0sJIladbiDqfkj4caio3IKFo-1920.jpg)
Bolts are different, and this is the original GM style
(https://a.d-cd.net/4IMISBUERdEdF6bKjZVNE422yLo-1920.jpg)
Torque converter shield
(https://a.d-cd.net/fTIpkwjBRul12iwUdj9g44m9saw-1920.jpg)
Cooling lines
(https://a.d-cd.net/1uXbcD1ujQdeIcde_6AJ8vTxBBc-1920.jpg)
New spring braces
(https://a.d-cd.net/bquKv2Dw_Y9xooayEEa2SHeERGs-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/aiGc1xonjyHJHWloXBAEqJHxtdk-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/tMvotP3Od3O8iVabM4u_ANK2WbI-1920.jpg)
Shift pin
(https://a.d-cd.net/zF98OActgGjUZ-5M5h_jhuf8Mus-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/sUBmB6gb4uOOFhKECF0ZXK31Ftk-1920.jpg)
My "hand made tool" to uninstall the oil filter seal
(https://a.d-cd.net/2im1GXYYCqB_NI59Ro2JJz8qK3o-1920.jpg)
This position is for twisting in
(https://a.d-cd.net/MPgs98IYSmCGm55I4zEMvXRb9Ho-1920.jpg)
Then you push the tool further and twist by 30 degrees to lock it in the hex head
(https://a.d-cd.net/40s0VvSUEwrMsaxqanzE7llNAAY-1920.jpg)
and then you use the inverse hammer to pull it away
(https://a.d-cd.net/gG4Z41WtbGmOD0gTJoj5Hp8F8oQ-1920.jpg)
Here we go
(https://a.d-cd.net/XuYPrFvkzW3FjW48E5Gk7gB_bHw-1920.jpg)
then you gently tap in the new seal
(https://a.d-cd.net/ZxQcxMeh_xqp19n9KvoHmN59vog-1920.jpg)
Filter is in place, and all solenoids got their new o-ring seals
(https://a.d-cd.net/yW1bXLH7Ye-erA96B8YNNs-sVaQ-1920.jpg)
Boom. Ready
(https://a.d-cd.net/0CX_TDsn3SOy6-iueUVgTeORuAc-1920.jpg)
New original O2 sensors
(https://a.d-cd.net/hOJUkzIhaj_hsxskk5VaQ-JaP5M-1920.jpg)
It's more easy to install them when pipes are off
(https://a.d-cd.net/JuP-UUHZ00h7TJ5-Hnr5MWeo-Bs-1920.jpg)
and... drum roll
(https://a.d-cd.net/4iaOOdVBidBqQ-xxxT5LEO4QMpc-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/mdDzVEzb1aUc6lz6d1Gev3b3Wrw-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/4FKrQ204-7LjBzCBIx0J0SxusOw-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/OUoUnPd1u_hvng7ObguyOfgvxfs-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/xzDc7vFvXdQnLByRr3kafsM4ZME-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/1OroMfodhwaLa69DRSbg7n6DDVg-1920.jpg)
Results of the 3-months work on evenings and weekends
(https://a.d-cd.net/1AxlxUZhvIBuXGP7j1dlYbAenqc-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/YfDGId9e1J2FrikJNFCqi_nq1Sk-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/U0Dp9J4R6M3a-o6Xddqekim4ZXw-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/ZN6GWwB-AfZQVy7LQr35sApWpgY-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/cL-EePf9DiwgTCEUsisxUoN2PTE-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/iYr7Hf6S4unK_iYffdhjiCDm2ls-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/kKHYScYx4kmQpgu4quSs8CIsEoE-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/oOPeWpRbA_vRw4nybkb0sMrc1K4-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/VlDjr8giNbMRonDbAMb9sT1yKaQ-1920.jpg)
New clamps on the transmission cooler lines
(https://a.d-cd.net/K-WKwVX_LHofC80LRiXMXEKgj3w-1920.jpg)
The one clamp is with the screw in order to fully change the transmission fluid easily
(https://a.d-cd.net/kwnwtIMCP-nfL11Eg3FnuIn111U-1920.jpg)
Unfortunately, the NOS trim does not have a mirror reflection, though from the human eye height it looks neat
(https://a.d-cd.net/ti8KLvYls_xDIdn-dSkmGykgbzA-1920.jpg)
New CCM module. Mine was broken. This one is GM original new self-programming once you first start the engine
(https://a.d-cd.net/sThzIy9xsq5Mqxbecgn56KwcCT0-1920.jpg)
New air pump relay
(https://a.d-cd.net/5gYLAy67NU_P4HVgvpAO6MeUBYk-1920.jpg)
Installed
Next time we will make the first fire-up of the engine.
I haven't seen the same or the better looking Fleetwood 93-96 underbody, even on Matt Garrett's car from Dallas. This is one of the reasons why I wanted to share this strange process here. Strange - because many of you do not consider 93-96 Fleetwoods worth restoration like this, and this is fair.
Do you know where your masterpiece is now? With the extraordinary effort of personal resources, would you kindly provide us with more insights with regard to your experiences with this model? James
Quote from: James Landi on March 14, 2025, 06:52:21 AMDo you know where your masterpiece is now? With the extraordinary effort of personal resources, would you kindly provide us with more insights with regard to your experiences with this model? James
Yes, I am in touch with the guy, who bought both of my Cadillacs - Escalade ESV and this one.
Sochi (where 2014 Olympiad was held) - a city in Russia at the Black Sea with subtropical climate
Insights... Yes, I will provide
Let me finish first, as there will be a huge 2-nd part with the interior
New Stickers, correct to 1995 model year(https://a.d-cd.net/6OUDldgtW6cbEdO4aVpVRW_3c0U-1920.jpg)
These are the stickers for 1995. They are a bit different for 93, 94, 95, and 96
(https://a.d-cd.net/T57UMCZgh56tvhbv6VR5D_eCEVg-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/9LcX4Y2zsbRUVTgu6mYTwtATThM-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/3k-6OSC6h4A0JpkjhviYO3yzoxs-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/j1PBiwpljNQ7OCs82-_uLZEFOO8-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/GtlOHGXdsgQ2HcuKXuwtWjYJmRM-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/DWc3QryLNJDRxwvj43fqg6_BZA4-1920.jpg)
Now we are good to go
(https://a.d-cd.net/-GqzM7oX3u-Rm0CR5thPCTuovzc-1920.jpg)
Was it worth it? In terms of model value - not sure, but in terms of emotions - yes, no doubt. And as emotions are the main driver of everything, then the answer is
YES in CAPS and
BOLD(https://a.d-cd.net/A0jHG3ORg6oL3DlPy2qyfZUGoRk-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/H9NW8FukCBRMmkqeFuPif6KNleI-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/PNSYrfwKJHFRkolY1P10lfu1lpI-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/wT79g3vYP9F0CWX9qKCOV8Ym9G4-1920.jpg)
And, as I promised, first fire-up and short inspection
Stay tuned. Next post will be start of the interior fit process... There are many interesting things there
Interior. Start of the process
(https://a.d-cd.net/Ar3JK3ohc_8FXva0saGScp5UOX8-1920.jpg)
Interior needed a lot of work as an exterior. Not full restoration, but close to it. These pillar panels must be cloth-finished, but here we see grey artificial leather.
(https://a.d-cd.net/4cGTxALEp6znHYd2-kF9JSXI8Wk-1920.jpg)
Headliner removed
(https://a.d-cd.net/-pVlCVJFIWKPOn96peKI2BZavMk-1920.jpg)
Carpet needs cleaning outside of the car
(https://a.d-cd.net/kVjfltdFiSWWUascXUHbh3mi3wY-1920.jpg)
Soon the windshield will be cut out
(https://a.d-cd.net/6iAFFHihVCzoXx4hUBII7K7JGOU-1920.jpg)
The windshield is not original, and the guys, who replaced it, did not know how to use sealant...
(https://a.d-cd.net/Jw02SUu099LjEPXUVH3-AUImwPY-1920.jpg)
WOW
(https://a.d-cd.net/kKwzuk8ORA_MTJGMGt-Zwc78ibI-1920.jpg)
Sealant had zero adhesion
(https://a.d-cd.net/HTQKXCmNuxlTDWXqh2B2CZpnpdA-1920.jpg)
And this is the result
(https://a.d-cd.net/iXh3Fu1oboazfeMUH_QcD8P43kw-1920.jpg)
I will need to make a local sandblasting
(https://a.d-cd.net/WvyTbE1FobE5G5HBKDmLAr8DuQw-1920.jpg)
Signs on the headliner that windshield was cut even before us
(https://a.d-cd.net/SLPY_8uqiluv1JZZ0kKGnNDhK9E-1920.jpg)
This is another piece to deal with... Cracked dash was finished with thick artificial leather, and the airbag cover was hidden... using a piece of plywood and screws... The passenger airbag was deactivated.
(https://a.d-cd.net/9ZbUXJa9yULuGLuyvcCqwNgtmtc-1920.jpg)
OMG
(https://a.d-cd.net/l-66HL5Skybpuoqiz0yQygRvA5U-1920.jpg)
Airbag connector
(https://a.d-cd.net/rbfzjYASYVUNvC3R_WLFegG2LSQ-1920.jpg)
Leather is in pretty good shape though
(https://a.d-cd.net/Qk6fyesY_Q4a2Mkspj6y3GxfsQY-1920.jpg)
Some artefacts
(https://a.d-cd.net/mNaOqFhb88grZE1_h1HD1Od113c-1920.jpg)
Carpet before
(https://a.d-cd.net/qEBplaQMFm64gh16H2xr1bWY_n8-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/HDPecTzBfKOOUVCn8e9GsudJHRo-1920.jpg)
Carpet after pressure wash with chemistry
(https://a.d-cd.net/y9EM0U61OO4HphYtRE9QOpkNRuw-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/IOyaYYwseXhQFJTTJdTBgsk_cGY-1920.jpg)
Compare with what it was
(https://a.d-cd.net/516i1m76mxAB8YvwIa1pFnsUcFU-1920.jpg)
Looks like someone was here before myself...
(https://a.d-cd.net/NKEud9IZ1-QQSP70p0G-8naMA8A-1920.jpg)
Dusting
(https://a.d-cd.net/fLQZDGb5dyKivimAxBdkAbG6j4s-1920.jpg)
Down to bare metal somewhere
(https://a.d-cd.net/7C71BD2qoohPC86Orq9-k8Ls9Xs-1920.jpg)
Meanwhile, I have locally sandblasted the windshield frame. I have a gun, which reuses the slac and there is no dust around. It has a special nozzle and the rubber sleeve to collect everything back inside. Good for small jobs
(https://a.d-cd.net/qgGGNG-egdYiO-jNUmAAyHCZUU0-1920.jpg)
I used a rust dissolver, which gave such a dark blue color to the bare metal
(https://a.d-cd.net/FzK0ZsTt9ZUPp1OOHKxbTmxEjVg-1920.jpg)
Tons of thinner was used to remove all black coating
(https://a.d-cd.net/6OZ5WeQUsSCxLuqiRWk3kWb8RYY-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/rj-wTqgxlOAuvEDFLL6OBPQSWKo-1920.jpg)
Here I also used this type of rust remover, which converts shining metal to dark blue
(https://a.d-cd.net/OF7m6dbKcKsrCblQtM1vpq-aYqw-1920.jpg)
Some surface rust was found in the passenger legroom
(https://a.d-cd.net/L8rGpPi2Qjif1qkVP1upBCgwEPo-1920.jpg)
Phosphatic primer
(https://a.d-cd.net/Tr38eAs62feS1TsN9IJTmtWRK4Q-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/wEqqQ6b99AONfDo0UW5QRt_2Svo-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/xucytEfm0HnUMBg-5mS62j0C920-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/Yy-qzspeXaWxFqRB08wHgDSsEUY-1920.jpg)
Acrylic 2K primer
(https://a.d-cd.net/LnSVzLCQZ-QhMgZ6URviIPxKu00-1920.jpg)
This is required for the good paint adhesion
(https://a.d-cd.net/wZ7cznoyROpJK8CfF-mri9D-Kl4-1920.jpg)
And then the same acrylic 2K body paint RAL 7033, which I used for the bottom
(https://a.d-cd.net/JLuo_Xr8LgdoJNyjf6t9KW1raKM-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/HlAGLT9ONwaBFrcK7-NX0scfRus-1920.jpg)
Now this frame is ready for the new windshield
(https://a.d-cd.net/Moq5HuBla3ShBQWyOaboN-NzOiA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/6aRS0bNN6g3ExbJB6Pc0g5tHVv8-1920.jpg)
I used brush and roller, not an air gun
(https://a.d-cd.net/Eam6Qfp0i4-tmpvKN2oaoYNcAYo-1920.jpg)
This is all for today. Enjoy.
(https://a.d-cd.net/7CIgujCB1ISkSyQZwIAgXoNDx2A-1920.jpg)
New anti-vibration mats
(https://a.d-cd.net/b8aAUi-MojD_e10mf_OGTJoCKXI-1920.jpg)
Shape perfectly
(https://a.d-cd.net/2pSyK8TKR65-SqzUWGVnCPqmNQU-1920.jpg)
Setting sound dampener mat back again
(https://a.d-cd.net/Sl1VdJ5RXsdq8wr_tDCblhtJuu4-1920.jpg)
Patching and healing
(https://a.d-cd.net/zTOw5fFCLS0WJ2lPZuADwpv2Fus-1920.jpg)
Then comes the carpet
(https://a.d-cd.net/uan19vWBQ7-Bgx_3arBahZS7TZ4-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/rE0UE4Bus2buiJv-2Wl-4DJkEDo-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/bgQ5WE8hMwx514c9pqnOqrc3oi4-1920.jpg)
Headliner... Unfortunately, I can't put it back again
(https://a.d-cd.net/CLXpdUUv88Yf1DKOIWwqppfe9dE-1920.jpg)
All cloth in the interior was redone. Here is the worn sun visor cloth compared to the new one
(https://a.d-cd.net/kFfobBs8UtwfuurqdWACIwywV5k-1920.jpg)
Factory Quality
(https://a.d-cd.net/Gife0KickIDkpLiBx8eC_UfZmhY-1920.jpg)
Vanity mirrors
(https://a.d-cd.net/aI6umsWRtnqpqXu5SaoXqKNu3gw-1920.jpg)
Installed
(https://a.d-cd.net/4ys8sduU7pRaXjIM_s2B-coZfEs-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/dIFRsEVFYbLpn88Zg4ELj4AfwP4-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/bYlXUBgY03kiIz8KB6qH382KT7I-1920.jpg)
99.9% of these cars have terrible B-pillar upholstery
(https://a.d-cd.net/YADurj3w2tS3eu53eZkC2ZywOe8-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/ZCEKykI4cGLWgy0IOHR6qmuEr9M-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/2_RiI5ZL13ef0QmjrIMsb9emNbk-1920.jpg)
This film is to protect the headliner from the sealant while working with the windshield
(https://a.d-cd.net/TAX0bbILoD4-niBEylseNhVGcKE-1920.jpg)
And this is the reminder how it was
Continuing along the path: Today's focus is refurbishing and installing the seats.
Passenger seat back
(https://a.d-cd.net/aBjEz4W1lnSR5beCpjPkaYFGG54-1920.jpg)
I pop off the passenger seat back.
(https://a.d-cd.net/hV24KDH8RVrloFQYJ9I9y4cwlgk-1920.jpg)
The seat-back pocket is sagging.
(https://a.d-cd.net/P6wL26lJcFTY--OHNdw9Qg7W5lA-1920.jpg)
I open up the seams and resew the elastic, pulling it about 2 inches (5 cm) tighter.
Lumbar support
(https://a.d-cd.net/1zqSsO440_AAKmuo67-wISugO0w-1920.jpg)
The passenger seat's lumbar support didn't work. The motor hummed, but the support mechanism didn't respond.
I didn't want to remove the entire seat cover, so I used a scalpel to cut an X-shaped opening in the padding for access to the motor. A 10 mm pivoting ratcheting wrench got the motor out.
(https://a.d-cd.net/Nq86nHMv_iDCTu17vtqUYJ3ZuYU-1920.jpg)
The motor's housing was cracked, but that was a symptom, not the root cause.
(https://a.d-cd.net/y1hi4dK_A9xgDaK-UAd-NIz4NVo-1920.jpg)
I removed one self-tapping screw and four M3 screws to split the motor in half.
(https://a.d-cd.net/oJqR1TgdbiKmztwRn-V1JExT-Hs-1920.jpg)
The actual failure was the pot-metal part in the background—it broke along the threaded shaft that tightens/loosens the cables controlling the lumbar "stand." The repair was straightforward: I took a 12×12 mm piece of steel stock, drilled three holes, tapped one to M8×1.25, and used a hacksaw to notch the other two for the cables.
(https://a.d-cd.net/hLK8MhiVb8mQTea0GlVpYc_wR3Q-1920.jpg)
I reassembled everything and taped up the padding.
(https://a.d-cd.net/qVl9U1KVSTOHaniq-0emtBsHlMQ-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/HkUvp5aHCSHZwwE8CUFoVbsyNZ4-1920.jpg)
The passenger seat is now fully assembled and installed.
Rear seat
I also installed the rear seat.
(https://a.d-cd.net/zXk60jglApn81elq-fhp_eTjcfQ-1920.jpg)
Before that, I used new clips to secure the C-pillar trim. There's a GM part number on them, though equivalent
substitutes exist.
(https://a.d-cd.net/poK2oud69MUIpsYbsG6eqKqTOC8-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/CAmJVSbQJFEU7jEiBivyzfM2yt0-1920.jpg)
The rear seat is in. Getting close to "limousine" territory, haha.
Driver's seat
It had three known issues (and turned out to be four):
1. The motors for forward/backward movement didn't always engage (you could hear the relay click, but the motor wouldn't run).
2. The seat heater wasn't working.
3. The bracket between the seat rails and the seat base had snapped.
4. Later, I found the fourth issue in the seat memory module.
Seat heater
(https://a.d-cd.net/Cv6jyB6j_SJ39PYFeGbpCk048bk-1920.jpg)
The seat and seatback heaters are wired in series, each coil having ~0.9–1 Ω. In total, they should read around 2 Ω between the red and dark-gray wires. If there's an open circuit, you have to unplug the seatback and figure out which half is burned out. My problem was in the seat bottom.
(https://a.d-cd.net/i1e7l2gqwt_9T9KRRATEANJM4-s-1920.jpg)
I removed the seat cover from the cushion. One broken wire stood out right away.
I soldered and heat-shrunk it, but that didn't fully fix the issue.
(https://a.d-cd.net/Jhxqzw_zI_6h6rsIQDhoehmK59g-1920.jpg)
Continuing along the coil, I periodically stuck a needle through the insulation to find another open circuit.
(https://a.d-cd.net/X2xPQRRq2U1CYu-9HrJDOPM5uy8-1920.jpg)
The second break was right next to the first (the highest-stress area, a.k.a. the "gas outlet" zone). After soldering, the coil's resistance finally returned.
Seat base bracket repair
(https://a.d-cd.net/Tu6wTzN3TPvuOzAoBcTv3xdy5tc-1920.jpg)
The most heavily stressed bracket, near the door, had cracked. I aligned it. Welding wasn't a good option, since it creates new stress points that can crack again later.
(https://a.d-cd.net/-5O15r41v0RkWTudt8KqDcQHsqg-1920.jpg)
I made a cardboard template and transferred it to 2 mm steel.
(https://a.d-cd.net/Fk0-ab9N5M24n9yg0O201Mm8BuU-1920.jpg)
Used 4.8 mm steel-to-steel rivets, 5 mm washers on the backside, and one plastic piece as a spacer.
(https://a.d-cd.net/hlG0QtwLUQOY-vNKwrUF4kKl6zE-1920.jpg)
Riveted in place.
Electrical issues
(https://a.d-cd.net/xEkvHRwGEpECOLz3F_JAMB0l5Ro-1920.jpg)
I opened the seat memory module to clean the relay contacts and found evidence of a small fire.
(https://a.d-cd.net/szky2hQHHcTpTPfthRcz1CE2tGA-1920.jpg)
A noise-suppressing ceramic capacitor had blown, melting the insulation on the positive wire to the second part of the board.
That was the unplanned fourth issue.
(https://a.d-cd.net/_YyeU4TZL4HGlzYapWd8lDxLa_0-1920.jpg)
I installed a new 1 µF capacitor and replaced the wire.
(https://a.d-cd.net/DJONU1tdA8r1Oz4n_ErDIqHJ6wQ-1920.jpg)
The board was heat-damaged but still functional.
(https://a.d-cd.net/oOe7Cp6gItJwbwnv1Mx4APRlxnE-1920.jpg)
I sanded all relay contacts with 1200-grit paper.
(https://a.d-cd.net/RfceyYmw0m6sx-s4q8IKbwiyh94-1920.jpg)
Reassembled, ready for installation.
Diagnosis tip: To see if the seat memory module is the culprit, you can disconnect it and directly connect the harness to the motors (the factory wiring is that way if there's no memory option). If the seat moves, the memory module's at fault; if not, it might be the door switch or the motors themselves.
(https://a.d-cd.net/EYUtV3h2ztr82DhPSBexgsseFf8-1920.jpg)
Driver's seat installed
(https://a.d-cd.net/TrFs01Vfxmzz-OtC6CEpWa8fBuk-1920.jpg)
Everything's hooked up, tested in every mode. Memory only affects the seat cushion, not the seatback or mirrors—one of GM's early '90s quirks.
(https://a.d-cd.net/PHB6AYGoy-yvPc6aeQg60z6K0as-1920.jpg)
I also washed the carpet panels under the seats.
Plenty of legroom in the rear when the driver's seat is all the way back.
Hello again, everyone!
Even the most enjoyable and interesting endeavors eventually come to an end—what matters is whether that ending is triumphant or disastrous. In this case, the "season" of pleasant tinkering with the Fleetwood is drawing to a close, and today brings a very critical procedure: installing the windshield. Failure here could undo much of our previous work.
So, windshield installation it is. Many people have gone through this, though not always DIY. And not everyone has fond memories of having their windshield replaced—damaged interior trim or possible leaks come to mind.
I studied the Fleetwood manual in detail, where about five pages are devoted to step-by-step illustrations. Below is my version, informed by practical experience.
The Glass
(https://a.d-cd.net/djeIxHTysJEs5rXCc0nOGO8ju2o-1920.jpg)
The windshield itself is made by Pilkington.
(https://a.d-cd.net/GzXZCXaMfRvLh_IJJqlW_l2d8T8-1920.jpg)
(Pilkington windshield)
I spent quite some time trying to find a suitable top molding. I measured the original and ordered four different samples, discarding three for shape/size mismatch rather than quality.
(https://a.d-cd.net/ZVduvNHEJaIv9qEWaAiOpUb9EuY-1920.jpg)
(For B/D-body vehicles, I recommend this molding—best fit, and made in the USA, not China.)
(https://a.d-cd.net/slJcgrkEEjwDSr7HgT7I93IFzjM-1920.jpg)
First, do a dry fit to adjust the lower glass stops and apply two strips of tape along the top edge. Carefully slit the tape along the rubber molding; these strips serve as alignment markers when the glass goes in for real.
(Red arrows: adjustable stops. Green arrows: alignment markers.)
After you've aligned side to side (with the side moldings attached), run through a few "rehearsals." Practice lifting the windshield, flipping it, carrying it, precisely positioning, and placing it onto the markers. Since sealant goes on the glass (not the frame), shaky hands or poor coordination can easily get sealant everywhere.
I cover the hood and dash with protective film just in case. The headliner edge is wrapped in stretch wrap (see my previous post).
Preparation
Clean the inside edge of the windshield with a degreaser (not thinner!), then attach the molding. I left about 20 mm of extra length on each side, trimming it after final fit with the side moldings.
(https://a.d-cd.net/isCU79jbcLwmRX6ddTF-JQ38_Mk-1920.jpg)
(Windshield body side degreased, molding installed, ~20 mm extra on each side.)
I'm using an LM 6141 kit (Mercedes-approved).
(https://a.d-cd.net/C4vp6YLV1ei04qBADbUAfdS0a8Q-1920.jpg)
(The kit includes degreaser, gloves, primer/activator, and sealant. One tube isn't enough, so I got an additional #6139 tube of the same sealant.)
(https://a.d-cd.net/ea2SKcQuE_hcCoyoPWKLQbF247o-1920.jpg)
Primer is applied to both the glass edge and the body opening, then dried for 10 minutes at about 68 °F (20 °C).
(https://a.d-cd.net/c03W21d9KztM4nsd-m2EKGnsYto-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/4Yz8MmRAu6xzZ_4ZBslWILBS2FQ-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/DR4L4-6KnzYVSIKeWL0UKMAiZ7U-1920.jpg)
(Primer on the glass, 10-minute dry time.)
Applying the Sealant
The sealant is laid on the glass in a bead about 3/8 in (10 mm) wide by 3/4 in (20 mm) tall. Important: once the sealant is applied, you have only about 10 minutes to set the windshield—no time for a break!
Even with a good caulk gun and steady hands, laying a neat bead that quickly is tough. My arm was shaking afterward. I finished in about 8 minutes, then took a 1-minute breather so I wouldn't drop the glass. We used exactly two tubes. This windshield is huge—practically bus-sized.
All the rehearsals paid off. The glass was positioned perfectly, with no smearing or scratches.
(https://a.d-cd.net/fXIowiG65a7ImEhblpX6S9tw4sU-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/DoMqiRU2lV0N5hLlyo3EZQBm4p8-1920.jpg)
(Alignment is spot-on with the tape.)
(https://a.d-cd.net/DwmTzht7fE-dLqWpoEpDXqNV5lc-1920.jpg)
Press around the edges with your hand/fingers to ensure uniform contact. Excess sealant is normal. I smoothed the sides with a plastic panel-removal tool.
For the side moldings (I have several sets), I wrapped them in matte black vinyl, which really improved their look.
(https://a.d-cd.net/e9EKDq4yr2LUwktZyh_3o3G55KM-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/qs3dYWe7NqtIX9C_2feRoY4k0m8-1920.jpg)
Installing side moldings: I bought new stainless hardware—OEM was external hex, but I also got Phillips. Ended up using Phillips; looks better. Factory used external hex with a self-tapping tip for easier handling in a magnetic bit.
(https://a.d-cd.net/FG-UmxTOPv4GjM1TxA4M_UR4CxA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/9pPNF6FykI6-fvd34xHwU6zW478-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/riHyFK2vLxRFLeHF-x-qZGOHSSc-1920.jpg)
How the top molding meets the side molding—nice and tidy.
Finishing Up
I installed the cowl cover using new GM 10185925 clips and original-style screws.
(https://a.d-cd.net/4zgBbEIT8vu9cR-BTdTAOhY_b0w-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/RHVj586BgkaIs2Ex5hBiyGFfM58-1920.jpg)
I used black cap nuts from Mercedes A0009983521 because the original ones were lacking. GM later switched to these on the GMT800 line, maybe the GMT400 too.
(https://a.d-cd.net/cuKDsIS7SFtVd7xn_zCkR0sXH3M-1920.jpg)
Fitted new Hella wiper blades.
(https://a.d-cd.net/N28sMdTNlX3TsphWJQ4i_JJvd2o-1920.jpg)
"Now the customer can see them, so I can peel off the label."
Overall view:
(https://a.d-cd.net/Xp3pLgHSvOcQMU8YRqGKazFrJ6o-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/W1MUNNENtLjgNZH6xlWBjlLWyJY-1920.jpg)
(The VIN window is slightly off—right rivet is barely visible, just something I noticed.)
Next time will be the final post for this second phase. Stay tuned!
The final piece of this second (interior) phase is restoration of the embossed dash cover. The previous owner added large "Cadillac" lettering to the dash because, apparently, "GM's designers were idiots and didn't realize this obvious aesthetic move, though it was clearly needed."
No further comment...
Let's see how "embossing secrets" were done and how one should properly restore a cracked dash cover.
Removed dash cover:
(https://a.d-cd.net/ujWKRm3r9Q7opdwuNPK1cgpTDnQ-1920.jpg)
Wrapped in a coarse, low-quality vinyl with several stitch lines (which were never there originally) simply because this vinyl doesn't stretch like the factory material. The passenger airbag cover was sealed and stitched shut. You can see glue marks easily.
(https://a.d-cd.net/V1YxWvlu-UhD7h_7Ri2cg41w4fk-1920.jpg)
(Removed dash cover, poor-quality vinyl, extra stitching, airbag hatch sealed shut, glue marks...)
Inside:
(https://a.d-cd.net/pOeth8i6v9qNiSOHsfv_jDVCwjM-1920.jpg)
The Cadillac lettering was cut out of plastic with scissors (notice the wavy edge). The right side is all filled with body filler. There was a sun-crack radiating outward plus an airbag hatch.
(https://a.d-cd.net/MnizTr-NmhG9ogUQWOox2EydBNI-1920.jpg)
From inside, you can see the airbag hatch was replaced by a piece of plywood secured with sheet-metal screws. The airbag itself was disconnected so that if it deployed, nobody would be killed by the dash flying out instead of a cushion.
(https://a.d-cd.net/bEHP8wBWkDXZZUJ-ZeMPU2b39wA-1920.jpg)
Stitch lines that have no business being there.
(https://a.d-cd.net/T1UfKQbsfHvpICPxpvubrX_SCMg-1920.jpg)
The bottom edge of the vinyl was held by these custom plates, which obviously didn't exist in the original design.
(https://a.d-cd.net/50IGFyk8jUaRr_x_lUs2mSkYGNg-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/uQz4n6ERPpK98CPGfivbzDed6hw-1920.jpg)
An extra passenger airbag lid just for comparison—to see how it should be.
(https://a.d-cd.net/YcWYEJvQwlosCCjZDBmqN47vXz0-1920.jpg)
I had another dash cover with a surface crack (from sun damage), but nobody had butchered it like the other one. I gave that unmolested dash to be recovered using the factory-style hot-vinyl process.
(https://a.d-cd.net/VFzkRK9vmYB2X6jWsmiIWu9gQbQ-1920.jpg)
Cracks in the dash I handed in for re-covering. Damaged corners underneath.
(https://a.d-cd.net/F8xFUvAsr2XMPfcXW7a9sqMMm64-1920.jpg)
Roughly 24 inches (600 mm) deep.
Below are photos of the result:
(https://a.d-cd.net/5vBGxOvwE370Oko5Zzpe-vmUsTI-1920.jpg)
Overall look of the dash after restoration.
(https://a.d-cd.net/asWCUQ7vyGhBoLX5zSxxoVPCLts-1920.jpg)
On the backside, I removed all foam sound dampeners and vents.
(https://a.d-cd.net/XEJZDa-UfXP7Ww3lv5lulmnJpZ8-1920.jpg)
Washed them, let them dry.
(https://a.d-cd.net/wDluy7_6-ImXZkKSsypsFtuumdE-1920.jpg)
Reapplied special rubberized foam at the vent junctions, same as factory. Check the neat butt-joint in the top-left corner.
(https://a.d-cd.net/ZkfBdwg-uPHOhx3WrV4ncchWRKM-1920.jpg)
Same on the right side.
(https://a.d-cd.net/-HEUZE_sdh0FZ3P5XNNSEUPzMrY-1920.jpg)
The rest is covered exactly as from the factory, but using higher-quality, new sound-deadening material.
(https://a.d-cd.net/KZkdA-UnSFHpZ4KXscdSNAnpN6I-1920.jpg)
The vinyl matches the original color perfectly.
(https://a.d-cd.net/Pxi3A5NnyHD3HWch7wzHfZCPX3Y-1920.jpg)
Super tidy overall.
(https://a.d-cd.net/QgDadw1lz1TERLr3GxGSPzZ_hwo-1920.jpg)
The airbag lid originally had its own embossing, which we replicated with a heat stamp.
(https://a.d-cd.net/C0tJaDTQSanbx1Cl7A7QpIFaS-s-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/MHm0mpNk4HqSCivZQlAOWTZkNao-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/Z4zNWaqEAcPA2MOgxeLbpDtlRjk-1920.jpg)
Installed the dash panel, installed the A-pillar trims.
(https://a.d-cd.net/ladM7qEeKWq96lMa4u6Je-7pY30-1920.jpg)
Correct seamless front edge.
(https://a.d-cd.net/8SaCFY7LQO1uM2NTskxwxuSepsQ-1920.jpg)
Overall view.
(https://a.d-cd.net/IRITQyu6hMfOgnrDyoEhUVbTU4o-1920.jpg)
With that, the second phase is complete. The car is fully drivable. I just need to wash off the dust and leftover copper slag in various crevices—and maybe do a polish.
(https://a.d-cd.net/IpXE1732CEPdkNd3ZqOxCCpQz3g-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/8iUZQkKUey9o35JJe82OVq8UIOQ-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/r-DXC6anf8CtUfirdM4fzfi8EcI-1920.jpg)
The car was washed carefully, and here is how it looks, works, and sounds(https://a.d-cd.net/Uh8PSU6dg7yt6mPZ5Tb3DPxlYcU-1920.jpg)
Warm May day
(https://a.d-cd.net/X7Zr_CwYDKRHfJBdgIVAA9YTZKE-1920.jpg)
Labels
(https://a.d-cd.net/CfRLr_uAuPEPogOL4FCzdWFPHdk-1920.jpg)
Reminder
(https://a.d-cd.net/ViLiTGkL2zxT6dRfGanNVB8BQVI-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/AdhmdmtCsDe6qbevfcjoiCmMzWo-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/4_Xozxp0tYChiq93sWwlzHu9_dk-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/xivsAKlqlXE7IIOQixT-YVIILTU-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/SQUwxdf-w24zV8sBQwcuqOc0JpA-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/Vz_nqaU8VDPEEatB2MurgO9UbNY-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/h6MCq22-WnkpVBqt6S2MUYpKxA4-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/HLsPQJBzbRjWHbnec2U2rVPEWCY-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/ARgW764rLjWOFN5ar8ELnhB0uiM-1920.jpg)
New floor mats
(https://a.d-cd.net/Kbohq77pTE9IDZ56UQlJFHb4Qs4-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/uulv2uZajcDfIXGVTyJyjj1xLiY-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/0EPqqVk1twitd61xJK0rtS9QcnQ-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/MvFnQIuf18wMv9kCZrnNdM8EgpM-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/uBrmlAl-9fUVF5B8bh_814ErB8s-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/VIIPsBJsdQkZ6TmfsDU0KZYf6cI-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/KLz9h6LbFMYB3-hOrXpg9lY1Zjk-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/AlVza6lKyA0HdtmYDSnxGVFgmAI-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/u62ZLO4WT7uo9FNArlhQg3bfNEo-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/QwiN5-SnCNXTDYSHqPmD1OF9bcw-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/ykzbq-8kYcHwGmIcgdkB_eM1Ggg-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/pdO-4tY1AaZOsrsCr0ORbLfpXow-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/LDq7fLPpPe2oVqD9JxRGEuTY_tk-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/vX_lPU4qvMDcndW9krDy4V9PvbQ-1920.jpg)
And short video
Trunk emblem
In 2018 I purchased new original emblems for the hood and trunk. I installed the hood emblem right away (it mounts with a nut), but never got around to doing the trunk emblem because it's attached with rivets.
Turned out it wasn't just about the rivets. If you plan on buying these emblems, pay attention to what I'm about to mention.
(https://a.d-cd.net/LmOtK2TNTcAoS-1TwbRtb_X6Mlc-1920.jpg)
These emblems were bought in the States from a guy known as "cadillac fanatic," who claimed they were 100% for the 1993–96 Fleetwood.
In reality, the new emblem didn't fit. On closer inspection and measurements, I realized I could combine the new emblem's face with the old emblem's base. So I disassembled the flip mechanism
(https://a.d-cd.net/P_QDpZT8wZIhTB1Nqj4cg88fvSg-1920.jpg)
The new emblem didn't fit. After detailed inspection and measurements, I realized I could build one out of two, using the new face. Took apart the flip mechanism.
The difference is that the base of the original Fleetwood emblem isn't flat—it's curved to match the trunk's V-shape (left one).
(https://a.d-cd.net/Zg9A-icnA_5GEtUl8UMi_mO_GoI-1920.jpg)
The Fleetwood emblem base is not flat and conforms to the trunk's V shape.
The face from the new emblem fit perfectly onto the old base. I did have to modify the stop a bit so the flip-down piece would lie horizontally when closed.
(https://a.d-cd.net/CP6pWlmMx6aH09-jZdXS1Ai3AHA-1920.jpg)
The face fit perfectly on the old base, but I had to slightly modify the stop so it would close level.
The mechanism works, and I used genuine GM rivets.
(https://a.d-cd.net/wWPDPS1aXYYE8BA6Ee9gq-2wSKc-1920.jpg)
Mechanism is functional, rivets are original GM.
Moral of the story: always ask the seller for a side profile photo of the emblem. The Fleetwood emblem is not flat!
Let's get into the doors and trunk for a bit. As usual, I didn't plan on touching them, but I had no choice. The same old reason: the "suitcase handle" (pull strap) on the driver's door was fastened with a non-original screw and a washer. I decided to fix that.
I tried unscrewing it, but the plastic insert spun with it. WTF... In the end, just to remove the screw, I looped a thin wire under the head, forming a mini "lasso" pulling outward. The plastic nut was pulled against the door's metal so it finally stopped turning. Mini-victory. When reassembling, I replaced all the captive inserts with new ones.
(https://a.d-cd.net/Unvb9O4SunHTfRZ_4W5itJLa-5o-1920.jpg)
Original clips. I ordered Sat ST-M10899—an exact copy of the original, 40 pieces.
After popping off the door panel clips, they basically disintegrated.
Almost all of the brackets on the door card for those clips were either completely broken or at least half gone, and one bracket was missing entirely.
(https://a.d-cd.net/qx9XMxiPTMYTp_iw4NepWwjC3S4-1920.jpg)
Unscrewing the carpeted lower section (it goes to the wash).
Using available materials, I fabricated a bracket, glued it on with Poxipol, and reinforced it with rivets through the door card.
(https://a.d-cd.net/Xy_w5AIKtmGuKOGG1Nr0uctl1mM-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/tIfgwAEuUtrJl2w9RB4jTgq5FEw-1920.jpg)
View from the outside. Obviously, this all gets covered by the carpet.
Any bracket that broke off but was still present, I just glued back with Poxipol.
(https://a.d-cd.net/-zpZCLZyrpMkoEyPFrGfzvpwEFo-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/K-zAc9yGV28kjovpXBoQGuNg0f0-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/fOjG9iHjUh1dyOi3gjvnXdy--L0-1920.jpg)
I also used fiberglass cloth and Poxipol to patch the door card from the inside.
Moving on to the Door Itself
They'd attached the window regulator with random fasteners. Originally, it used rivets, but someone cut open the door, knocked the rivets out, and screwed it on with "whatever was handy."
(https://a.d-cd.net/dBqYIZIViYxTIyXCZB-TmK0cgwk-1920.jpg)
On this random mix of hardware, the window regulator was holding on.
I replaced it with proper M6 black hardware.
(https://a.d-cd.net/LOhh-Y2xUKdb4XT45AhgrjFOHpc-1920.jpg)
At least these are original GM screws
(https://a.d-cd.net/wfa8u6sHcp74YXp13NLw6-pZq0g-1920.jpg)
From the inside, of course, no nuts you have to hold with a wrench—just the original M6 captive inserts.
(https://a.d-cd.net/or7D9mxZypCZzEvPkWZ_VL8EwWY-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/c_3sFeOwR_F7yazQwC3TKAhkLEw-1920.jpg)
Apparently, to straighten out dents in the door, they cut a chunk from the inner panel, left the welds untreated and unpainted. I fixed that from both the outside and inside.
(https://a.d-cd.net/A-F6Au_b7Ild2NQMCJbTDGImnI8-1920.jpg)
It also turned out the driver's door was missing part of the window guide. Amazingly, the car had been driven that way for at least 15 years, maybe more, yet the glass still tracked fine. I found the missing piece from a Caprice for about $15.
(https://a.d-cd.net/bNWLrXSdDXTlghGJ1pRO_xtDCSo-1920.jpg)
Inside the door after cleaning and degreasing — applying sound-deadening.
Afterward, it's time to stick on a protective barrier. On modern cars, it's usually a plastic sheet; here it's 1 mm thick rubber. From the factory, they sprayed a non-hardening adhesive inside, but over the years it accumulated dirt and lost any grip. This rubber must be sealed to prevent leaks.
(https://a.d-cd.net/4aL9SBtt9rj1CloeECSJM6EcjLo-1920.jpg)
My go-to solution: butyl sealant for headlights. I lay it in a bead around the perimeter.
(https://a.d-cd.net/C5n7K_j0VTFuDJ0fZz2420r135k-1920.jpg)
In spots where the drainage spots are, leave a gap.
Then the rubber is pressed onto the door, seating into the bead of sealant.
(https://a.d-cd.net/NwkKg85VCLreVxuULfRO1uoU8Yw-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/-FKbpp6fq8ToRR9jUdYbPqgstto-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/-w1XQUSuprtxy6KKeGxGex7_tsw-1920.jpg)
This is how the drain openings are formed.
Before putting the door panel back, I wash the interior window frame trims with soapy water and a brush.
(https://a.d-cd.net/xRSOKcX-66h3KA29omyKDt6U0HQ-1920.jpg)
Some clips popped off. I glued them with Poxipol.
Naturally, I also wash the door panel itself—completely disassembling it—and clean the courtesy lights inside. Photo below shows the fully assembled door.
(https://a.d-cd.net/q4aJ1RQUmOYGKko0X-mGC4beTew-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/86ryuxvYMOoMjmjROL5e_gfWHiw-1920.jpg)
Assembled driver's door.
Then I go around all four doors, repeating the same procedure.
(https://a.d-cd.net/gQ_6M0uL2DfGmsGY6yPkBntymxU-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/XvMoVTGzBXn0gfbvUE_BXyU4O7g-1920.jpg)
Assembled passenger door.
And so on...
(https://a.d-cd.net/vd36jZzWP1RqE_SaVxR65zpnUbQ-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/7rG8aycdzOhJGjuWtkiodcF1gb0-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/ieMhvr_A6NcR_l8nl2hJ6uncIRY-1920.jpg)
Rear right door with the rubber barrier attached.
When installing the door panel, the pull strap is clipped onto the panel first, and the decorative trim for the handle is fitted afterward, once the panel is on.
(https://a.d-cd.net/WLGcu4gVPPZORMZjtW6RjvYdQU0-1920.jpg)
If all the clips are in place, you get proper alignment.
(https://a.d-cd.net/jkOmmu4TzCpIm_vblId6IEdYckc-1920.jpg)
Rear left door: three clips plus their brackets were left stuck on the door, so they weren't holding anything. The black rubber trim had shifted and wasn't doing its job. Good thing no one threw it out.
(https://a.d-cd.net/MzncKA0epkj1V_Z9KanH_IagVfg-1920.jpg)
Anyway, that door is now assembled.
Moving to the Trunk
I pulled out the trunk carpet for cleaning. Surprisingly, it didn't need a full wash. Then I vacuumed out the rear compartments (found around 50 ball bearings, ~3 mm, using a magnet).
(https://a.d-cd.net/5JRlDM6MRisA0TD7E1us9OGdt1M-1920.jpg)
Cleaning and degreasing.
(https://a.d-cd.net/LGXTvcej8sua2R3HsBhMgxBPXeM-1920.jpg)
Applied sound-deadening mats to the floor.
(https://a.d-cd.net/BBZmBikyjjwxkvKbdwTu2rh9MxI-1920.jpg)
And up the sides.
(https://a.d-cd.net/M-LyiyL21-EIeu1Jc4CAZvQcNCk-1920.jpg)
Where the floor sits higher, I added more sound-absorbing material made of bitumen-impregnated foam.
(https://a.d-cd.net/fVtIYK9lsmKesJnLSeuOb5AIgGI-1920.jpg)
Trunk carpet is exactly 1.8 m wide...
(https://a.d-cd.net/hKlnWEFlQHygiQgQJQV60pRBmaQ-1920.jpg)
...and about 1.4 m long.
(https://a.d-cd.net/M_2t4p5EJTlVSofJSDnRjPVvW3g-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/CSoXpr2JoT88XpaXJOsjaI68Q6Q-1920.jpg)
The carpet corners attach with hook-and-loop strips. I replaced them with some 3M brand tape.
(https://a.d-cd.net/o8dzTCv9DnlROYXGePnbdmKbtyY-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/YB5NGbodAH-SzkiWfOPnG2_f54w-1920.jpg)
Looks factory, but holds better.
Carpet goes back in, trunk's done.
Rear axle: rebuild
Time to wrap things up with the rear axle, which has been making a sporadic howling noise ever since I got this vehicle (and who knows for how long before that).
In this post, you will:
1. Discover the main reason for axle shaft and bearing failure in GM rear axles,
2. Get a free, detailed guide on how to replace the differential bearings.
If neither of those interests you, then at least you can enjoy quality color photos.
For those just tuning in: I had a problematic axle shaft that I replaced with a worn one, installing a repair bearing in the process, and secretly hoped (but didn't really believe) that the howling would go away. Also, while overhauling the rear axle, I measured the ring and pinion backlash; it seemed within spec but near the upper limit. As you'll see, I was mistaken about a few things.
So first, I figured I needed a good axle shaft to run a normal bearing, and then I'd see... Meanwhile, I ordered a rebuild kit (Richmond 8310211) for the GM 8.5 10-bolt.
(https://a.d-cd.net/gmuxLd_uhp2nSiZ-b0NWMJYNehA-1920.jpg)
Shaft puller for extracting the bearing. You could use a slide hammer, but I don't have one.
A decent axle shaft was found in a used diff I bought for around 10 k rubles (it's basically impossible to find a new one). Just a few words on the replacement:
(https://a.d-cd.net/gW5kLsn5yP1pt4vlwuG5wnP-pKc-1920.jpg)
Good axle shaft from the purchased rear axle—viable.
(https://a.d-cd.net/S1LNyvW1aX0QXjBNKwz_3yvtKhw-1920.jpg)
Removing the repair bearing.
(https://a.d-cd.net/mnMf1Vb6WnvIDRtR1tVZ4G1nni8-1920.jpg)
A new bearing & seal set R186.23.
(https://a.d-cd.net/LXbJS6dezzmog-WIpOTUjAoUCP8-1920.jpg)
Installed.
(https://a.d-cd.net/X9gkPK95Ikk7YrnlQ1QqRp1d5po-1920.jpg)
Axle shaft in place.
Since this post isn't ending here, you can guess the axle shaft didn't solve the noise.
Main Course, After the Appetizer
Below is essentially everything (besides basic hand tools) you need to rebuild the axle: pipe wrench (to hold the yoke), two types of torque wrenches, a digital inch-pound torque gauge (0–30 N·m), a 2-jaw puller, bearing split pullers, a magnetic stand for the indicator, GL-5 gear oil, rebuild kit #8310211, and the manual.
(https://a.d-cd.net/ujaCU1VNy_jDPWyrRSvjlsbEfn4-1920.jpg)
All the essentials: pipe wrench for the pinion yoke, two torque wrenches, digital in-lb torque gauge, 2-jaw puller, bearing split puller set, magnetic base for dial indicator, GL-5 oil, kit 8310211, and the manual.
(https://a.d-cd.net/C8JuTBfSq46PVP7YF2usqSYeQf0-1920.jpg)
A close-up of the 0–30 N·m digital torque gauge. Without it, you can't properly set the pinion preload.
(https://a.d-cd.net/7IbM8HET-PgUFLAkz5y2OOq7kVs-1920.jpg)
GL-5-class oil, definitely not GL-4 or GL-4/5. Some will note the 140 rating is beyond older manuals, but those 28-year-old manuals never had that option. I've run this in my Escalade's GM axle for years, no issue. Whether it's an LS (limited slip) or open diff, the ring and pinion and bearings are the same.
(https://a.d-cd.net/74eLZ8ny8AHlOe39kIMtoT9vw4A-1920.jpg)
Rebuild kit 8310211: everything you might need for bearing or ring-and-pinion replacement.
(https://a.d-cd.net/JzNQeW9ULrMeSq0TpAVhtxhB2Yg-1920.jpg)
The manual. This volume covers chassis and body.
The Tear-Down
Before disassembly, I measured the ring-and-pinion backlash. It varied from 0.3 to 0.6 mm, and that was at just one spot on the ring gear!
(https://a.d-cd.net/ew419TX9p2aslttyG0EQH46XmBU-1920.jpg)
Checking backlash—0.3 to 0.6 mm in one place.
(Note the protective bubble wrap on the rear sway bar—gotta stay tidy.)
The contact pattern on the coast (concave) side of the teeth looked normal...
(https://a.d-cd.net/EVR63iAAiXe4aK8NibItPyI_Pxs-1920.jpg)
Coast side contact pattern.
But the drive (convex) side was just a mess.
(https://a.d-cd.net/LpZRGeeB2w-4-aU3iwsMWQuQpww-1920.jpg)
On the drive side, it's all over the place.
Then I checked the diff bearing play—it was around 0.4 mm when there should be a preload of about 0.2 mm.
(https://a.d-cd.net/VyRyukCQOG_S_PH-URUtT7OGP_o-1920.jpg)
Measuring diff bearing play: about 0.4 mm. It should have 0.2 mm preload.
That's the real cause of the chaos. I'm certain the axle had the wrong oil. The ring and pinion survived, but the bearings didn't. Possibly it was also underfilled, accelerating axle and bearing wear. So: always GL-5.
That extra axial play also caused the ring-and-pinion lash to vary by about 0.3 mm. As for my earlier winter measurements on a removed axle, who knows. I just never suspected play like that.
I pull out the differential. Mark the bearing caps (left/right) so you don't swap them—cases are machined with those caps in place, so they're not interchangeable, same as main caps on a crank or connecting rods.
The diff basically fell out, whereas it should be snug. I'll detail a safe removal method below.
For the pinion: use a 32 mm socket and pipe wrench to hold the yoke, remove the nut. Then a 2-jaw puller to press the yoke off—no hammering! A few taps with a rubber mallet on the pinion threads, and out it comes.
(https://a.d-cd.net/9RzMrOE0zgQMtNp-ziMKEeyQdXE-1920.jpg)
Pinion nut removal (32 mm & pipe wrench), yoke pulled with a 2-jaw puller.
(https://a.d-cd.net/STfwH-JfGJCfC4gzG1_DQsBsYcY-1920.jpg)
Removing the pinion bearing. This is where a bearing splitter is needed.
(https://a.d-cd.net/mC8wiD_g3KWxE6x74O-8_j-3Yp0-1920.jpg)
Pinion shim.
This shim sets the pinion depth relative to the differential's centerline. In 99.9% of cases, if you're just replacing bearings and keeping the same ring-and-pinion, the original shim stays; we assume the factory got it right and new bearings are precise. Changing ring-and-pinion or using a different housing requires actual setup.
(https://a.d-cd.net/SOB8RTICKGV_CN6oq-BSXjQtLqA-1920.jpg)
Properly seated. Pressing in the races of the new bearings with a correct driver. If the outer diameter of your driver exceeds that of the race, it won't seat fully.
(https://a.d-cd.net/9AwgHurq0YobiSI2a77OTuIKiis-1920.jpg)
Pinion installed—but for now, no crush sleeve, seal, or new nut. Tighten the nut just enough to remove play and give slight preload (feels snug by hand).
Differential Bearings
Left bearing had been spinning on the journal and caused a bit of damage. It slid off easily.
(https://a.d-cd.net/mhD5PVt_jxQtIIaT9m7S-D_zspU-1920.jpg)
Left bearing spun a bit, causing damage.
(https://a.d-cd.net/vBtc9uc9UVlG0YmRimwULPUvcso-1920.jpg)
Scoring from it spinning. The cause is obvious: worn bearings from improper oil, increased clearance instead of preload, etc.
Right bearing was stuck hard, so I had to cut its race.
(https://a.d-cd.net/zDDkueye8Irg8wCq4qjkjPGc5m0-1920.jpg)
Right bearing's outer race had to be cut.
The new bearing was a tight fit, but I degreased the surfaces and used red threadlocker for extra grip.
(https://a.d-cd.net/-_grHrDsgUwGlB33BmXEg9HCtqo-1920.jpg)
New bearing seat with red threadlocker. Believe me, it works perfect for years already.
We put the diff in the housing with the stock shims and torque the caps to 75 N·m.
(https://a.d-cd.net/wgiHsvI85APvwuVY4dW8zq9P6bU-1920.jpg)
Diff installed with factory shims, caps torqued to 75 N·m.
Then, by adjusting or swapping the shim packs side to side, we remove any play in the diff bearings (with zero or minimal preload just for trial) and set the ring gear backlash. Why swap shims? So we don't alter the bearing preload while shifting the ring gear in or out.
(https://a.d-cd.net/2zeQlgKZ3IKc91Uc5OD3LzMOttc-1920.jpg)
Reinstalled the diff. I swapped shims around until I got a nice contact pattern: centered in tooth depth, slightly toward the toe (inner end). That's good, because under load, the ring gear deflects, moving the contact pattern more toward center.
At that point, we dismantle the diff again. We won't change the shim packs except to add about 0.1 mm to each side for bearing preload.
(https://a.d-cd.net/hBqMl4Ij-JYknr4bnUiupUG37QU-1920.jpg)
New crush sleeve on the pinion shaft.
(https://a.d-cd.net/zcNiW4xpsayntewy8_CyR_TjYro-1920.jpg)
New seal.
Coat the pinion yoke splines with silicone or polyurethane sealant, so oil won't seep out. A new washer and new nut are strongly recommended. If reusing the old nut, at least apply threadlocker.
(https://a.d-cd.net/h4DoASQVGJHbynkni3JoVIFO-i4-1920.jpg)
Set the pinion bearing preload to 2–4.1 N·m (measured by turning the pinion with an inch-pound or N·m torque wrench). Gently tighten until zero play, then very carefully (maybe 5–7° at a time), checking the turning torque with the digital gauge. I stopped at 3.2 N·m. Let's keep that figure in mind.
My Pinion preload was set at 3.2 N·m.
We insert the diff, adding ~0.1 mm to each shim pack (rule of thumb) and gently hammer them in with a driver.
Removing a diff with that preload can be tricky. A tip: put a 19 mm box wrench on one of the ring gear bolts, rotate the pinion, and once the wrench hits the housing, keep rotating the pinion— the diff pops out with the shims and bearings.
Check the diff bearing preload: 1.7–4 N·m. I measure the total torque at the pinion, about 4 N·m. Subtract our earlier 3.2 N·m from that, leaves 0.8 N·m. Multiply by the ratio (2.92), about 2.3 N·m. That's within spec.
(https://a.d-cd.net/ID4Dc2KHB8NJ4HktvqiHmmzALhI-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/uRfdRu5Jz0D6bqTSwkhnXoOwQ5w-1920.jpg)
Backlash is 0.12 mm, which is slightly under the 0.13 mm lower limit. But note that each 0.05 mm in the diff shims changes ring gear backlash by about 0.03 mm. My kit's smallest shim is 0.1 mm, so if I added that, the backlash would jump to ~0.18 mm, near the upper spec limit, which I feel might be worse.
(https://a.d-cd.net/CgqlKLntWj9AN-SDc9RJgrHqrmU-1920.jpg)
Re-check the contact pattern — perfect.
Install the axle shafts, fix the spider gear shaft with a new bolt (threadlocker, torqued to 36 N·m).
(https://a.d-cd.net/7HSYH9Xtdu2wuiuR1f5ldhxYB64-1920.jpg)
Axle shaft in, new spider gear pin bolt installed.
(https://a.d-cd.net/jXiS_HnFyc8ZDwHVBT9G_3X5n60-1920.jpg)
New cover gasket with side holes. The cover bolts get 30 N·m.
Refilled the axle. It takes more than the 2 liters the manual says—I used about 2.5 L, so plan accordingly if you're buying oil. Two liters isn't enough.
(https://a.d-cd.net/G1o0MCDSnkcnHI1eIa73hemeMmY-1920.jpg)
Axle reassembled and filled with oil.
Finally, the test drive: about 12 miles (20 km). Started slow, then a bit more spirited, including up to 87 mph (140 km/h). The rear axle is now silent. Checking the housing temperature at the pinion area after I got home: it was comfortable to the touch, ~130 °F (55 °С)—perfectly normal, as an axle can easily exceed 212 °F (100 °С).
Today is the final post regarding this vehicle.
Polishing
(https://a.d-cd.net/oTyGpEg243Zva0enFpa5hXKZsFQ-1920.jpg)
I used 3M materials to make polishing. But before, I used 1500 and then 2000 grit paper to matte the surface
(https://a.d-cd.net/o1iRfoD1k34HcHIsDx7ueUCMtAk-1920.jpg)
The final result is on pictures
(https://a.d-cd.net/L1_bWvJCaW6tP2MRPM_AXT_hA4I-1920.jpg)
All scripts were retaped
(https://a.d-cd.net/K0nqeWLhHDoxG_wp8fcHxYEprjY-1920.jpg)
Proper positioning from the Manual
(https://a.d-cd.net/OrUsSwH32q5L5bZ0uSQ2ecTaozI-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/o0wet8MQhu39SaTOJ49zI-142NI-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/sndsg-ANSrKLR0HLvjiGdtOckPw-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/hh4XPO4UVON7oG_Uqi2rHlf7S68-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/Wi3fMvGwGgdan0iXkV-sPgVZQEA-1920.jpg)
And some night pictures in front of my house.
Sadly, it was the end of the story, as I had to sell this car and even not enjoy driving it. Perhaps, I drove ~250 miles in total throughout 3 years of owning the car. I didn't want to drive it when it was not in excellent shape, but once I've done everything, we had to leave the country.
(https://a.d-cd.net/079YZ8uAut2Z4iDC4O5fi9wNbZM-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/jhbwcXETveIrsVxV4w1vk7pQ-bg-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/Pk675bmcLnaQPyrJeO3B3mRnG7c-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/GbcMDeTDGHE-MxMlG32nlFFSqec-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/Dyy6ThKwSPcfoWTg716vzkgpSgs-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/gYHg5CW07RBVFKSV8dyXKwygXY0-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/1aMtMmHYPjRWer-Z7AcUhd6jCUM-1920.jpg)
(https://a.d-cd.net/tMSfWiTErXeAxKXsk3BJtAnZPj4-1920.jpg)
November 2022: Both of my Cadillacs go to Sochi
Sorry you had to go through all that effort in bringing the car back to live again. It surely must have a very hard life before you purchased it for it to be in such a bad condition, even though it looked so good from the start.
As the saying goes, start something and you run the risk of opening up a can of worms. Your saga is a wonderful example of perseverance under arduous conditions.
Bruce. >:D
Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) on March 26, 2025, 07:55:39 PMSorry you had to go through all that effort in bringing the car back to live again. It surely must have a very hard life before you purchased it for it to be in such a bad condition, even though it looked so good from the start.
As the saying goes, start something and you run the risk of opening up a can of worms. Your saga is a wonderful example of perseverance under arduous conditions.
Bruce. >:D
Thank you, Bruce
The one thing I didn't mention:
I was selling this car with an easy heart, because I knew that in US I will find the car, which I was dreaming about since my University years. And it finally happened
Well, I'm impressed by everything you do, and how you do it.
The surgical precision, and the documentation!..
Thanks / Johan