One day my 49 decided not to start. I checked all the wiring and everything appears to be good. I took the NSS apart and cleaned it, and it is working properly. I finally thought I isolated it to the starter. With the ignition on and starter button engaged, it would finally start when I hit the side of the starter with a hammer. So I bought a rebuilt starter and installed it today. No luck, car still will not start. I hear a click at the starter solenoid, but the starter does not engage. Either I bought a bad starter, or it's a different issue. Any advice on troubleshooting?
Thanks,
Fab
Are you sure your battery is not weak?
Relatively new battery, fully charged
Before returning the starter, I would check your battery cables for current flow. I don't know how old yours are but it possible for the cables to develop corrosion on the inside, under the outer covering so it is not visible. I used a test light, and the light was bright going from positive to negative post on battery and much dimmer when going from the battery post to the end of the cable at the starter. Replacing the cable solved the problem. I have a 60 CDV so your set up is a little different, but if one of your cables is corroded inside it could cause your problem. Please let us know what the solution is to your issue.
Good advice from Michael. I would add that you should check all the ground points including the battery ground strap (including where it bolts to the frame halfway along its length) and the 2 small ground straps at the back of each cylinder head. Also, scrape off any paint on the surface of the starter where it mates to the flywheel housing.
In addition, a good idea if the system is 6 volts is to ground the starter end plate (the end that does not go into the flywheel housing). It's not hard to do and Art Gardner and I wrote an article on how to do it. If you email me at jaysfriedman(at)yahoo.com I'll reply with the article attached.
Both cables are good. I replaced them not too long ago. And connections are clean.
Is there a trick to bench testing a 49 starter? I have jumper cables to the large positive & negative terminals on the starter relay. But what about the 2 small posts? I assume I apply power to the terminal that goes to the starter button. But what about the other small terminal that goes to the voltage regulator?
Thanks, Jay. I'll send you an email to get a copy of that article.
Quote from: FabCad on June 29, 2025, 05:56:37 PMBoth cables are good. I replaced them not too long ago. And connections are clean.
Is there a trick to bench testing a 49 starter? I have jumper cables to the large positive & negative terminals on the starter relay. But what about the 2 small posts? I assume I apply power to the terminal that goes to the starter button. But what about the other small terminal that goes to the voltage regulator?
Connect that other small terminal to ground when bench testing.
When the starter is installed on the car the purpose of that connection to the generator is to prevent the starter from operating when the engine is running. When you press the starter button when the engine is not running, the relay is grounded through the generator. When the engine starts running and the generator is charging, the charge breaks that ground connection and if you press the button the starter won't operate. That way the "Bendix" (what Cadillac calls the starter clutch) gears and the flywheel gears won't be damaged.
Did I get this right? You changed the starter but reinstalled the old solenoid? Just because you hear a CLICK from the old solenoid does not guarantee that the solenoid is doing its entire job. There is an electrical contact disk that eventually becomes so full of carbon and oxidation that insufficient amperage will starve the starter of electricity. When you hammered the starter, you likely helped to rotate the solenoid disk so that it made contact. Sometimes we confuse cause and effect... it's not uncommon with starter challenges.