Good Evening, I am looking to replace all of the interior bulbs in my 60' Eldo. Map light, the door lights and the rear seat lights. Can anyone direct me where to procure?
I have been getting LEDs for various applications from this place. Unless someone here has the details you will have to consider the options yourself and hopefully choose the best fit for each location. The original bulbs radiated the light in pretty much every direction, LED's have a narrow pattern so the type and arrangement makes a big difference on how they will perform.
Take something like a map light. They may list 5 options that all should plug in but are gonna be different shapes. First concern is will the longer ones fit in the housing? You may be limited to a shorter one. Once you get an idea what fits then you need to look at where the LEDs are. Some of the designs have more on the end and others have more around the body so it will depend on which way the bulb is pointing and if there is any sort of reflector or lens involved.
You also have to consider the brightness/lumens. Is it something you want to be brighter? Or are you going for the original look? Nice thing is the LEDs produce less heat and draw a lot less power so in some cases you can safely really increase the light output without too much concern for overloading and melting things. Then there is the color. 2700k is going to be pretty close to a classic regular bulb. The slightly newer stuff like krypton and halogen were maybe 3000k.
https://www.superbrightleds.com/vehicle?find=1960-cadillac-eldorado-6598396&sid=0PSErm0yoF
Thanks TJ, I appreciate the in depth response. I don't mind the lighting the way it is but I do want to draw less power.
Anything else you might think of, feel free.
How does the FiTech work for you?
Jimi,
LED lights have improved in the last few years with improvements on light dispersion, focus, etc.
You have to look at the type of bulb you have in your application and match it with a LED replacement. The only caveat is LEDs have a polarity and thus they can't be installed in a reversed application.
If your socket is wire with the positive in the tip and ground on the case straight replacement can be done with LEDs, if the other way around on the wiring LEDs will not work.
I've replace almost all of the older filament type bulbs on my 1956 except for those that can't be done e.g. glove box, GEN indicator, etc.
Good luck..!
What's the concern about power draw? All lamps combined probably draw less than one amp.
Did someone mention concern over drawing too much power? Too little is more of a problem.
Interesting thought about the polarity. Could easily design them not to care but it adds to the cost so not sure they would all do it. I have never noticed any notes or markings or options related to polarity in the automotive leds so maybe they do just make them not care? I did just get some from them for my lawnmower which includes some 194, the little ones where the there isn't a socket per say just the pinched glass and those could plug in either way. I guess I will have to go out and see if I just got lucky plugging them in or if it doesn't matter.
And for anyone else that saw CAN lamps listed I had to look up what a CAN lamp is. Basically the deal with those is they add I assume a resistor so to the electronics it looks like an old school light bulb. CAN is the communications protocol that started getting common around 05. The computer isn't talking direct to the bulb but it could be monitoring the line to make sure thing are acting right and if its not it pops up a warning saying that your tail light is burnt out. A regular led may trigger that alert but the CAN ones mimic the old bulbs so the line should look normal. IF they can light looks like what you want you can use them in non computer cars, I just installed them in my 1980 lawnmower and they work fine.
Quote from: TJ Hopland on August 10, 2025, 11:14:09 AMDid someone mention concern over drawing too much power? Too little is more of a problem.
See Reply #2 above.
As the 1960 Eldorado segregated the left door, rear seat light and map light from the right, requiring an additional lead on the plunger door switch (and they being ridiculously expensive) it was recommended to me that I use the traditional 2 lead plunger switch and changing all of the corresponding bulbs to LEDs. That would facilitate all interior bulbs to light at the same time regardless of which door is opened. I appreciate the responses, and additional comments are certainly welcomed
All courtesy lamps should illuminate when either door is opened. The map light may also serve as an additional courtesy lamp "on certain body styles" according to the 1960 owner's manual. Partial illumination related to which door is opened doesn't sound like normal operation.
I'm not sure how the circuit is wired in 1960 but on a 1962, the switch has two leads - one for the front lamps; the other for the rear. By manipulating the door switch, I could get either the front or rear lamps to come on or none at all which was usually the problem I was having. After I removed and disassembled the switch, the contacts were sooty after many years of arcing. After cleaning the contacts, all the courtesy lamps now illuminate as they should when either door is opened. I only did the driver's side switch because that was the one with the problem.
I replaced the interior lights on my '60 with LEDs awhile back because I noticed what appeared to be scorch marks on a couple of the lenses. I figured that something that was cooler and drawing less power would be safer. I don't particularly like the color; it's more of a bright white than the gentle yellow glow of the originals.
As I understand it, the 3 lead plunger switch does isolate each door and the corresponding interior light by driver and passenger. Either door illuminates the map light
Maybe David Greenburg can chime in on the "half-lights" question since he has a '60 Seville.
Eric-
Not sure I understand the reference to "half lights." If you are referring to which lights come on when a door is opened, on my car, both sides of the interior (the door and rear compartment quarter panel light) as well as the map light come on when a door is opened.
Quote from: David Greenburg on August 11, 2025, 03:08:05 AMEric-
Not sure I understand the reference to "half lights." If you are referring to which lights come on when a door is opened, on my car, both sides of the interior (the door and rear compartment quarter panel light) as well as the map light come on when a door is opened.
See reply #7. Thanks for confirming.
Quote from: David Greenburg on August 10, 2025, 02:23:58 PMI don't particularly like the color; it's more of a bright white than the gentle yellow glow of the originals.
Were there color options where you got yours? Or did they at least have a color temp in the spec? If there was a spec what was it?
I see looking at super brite's 194 options just as an example there are some that are only available in a 6500K which is not even close to a color you would have ever seen in a car before. 5000 was a typical fluorescent shop light or institutional sort of color so 6500 is a decent jump further away from a classic bulb. When you get much over 5000 they start to get blue in em and blue was a color you just didn't get from a regular bulb. Some other versions of the bulbs are available in multiple colors including some closer to the 3000 range.
2700K is the classic light bulb. 2100 would be the 'antique' open flame sort of color. 3000 at a glance you may not notice is different than 2700 but if you had them side by side you can see the difference. All this goes for lights you are buying for your house or yard too. If you care what it looks like don't go by the cool warm sort of thing look for the actual number.
TJ-
It was a number of years ago and I don't recall the extent of the color options. I just remember being happy I found something that fit. But I've got a couple of extras floating around so I'll see if there's a number. A cooler number would probably help.
David, can you share the bulbs you used? I believe both door bulbs, one above the door handle and one on the trailing edge of the door, are the same. And the map light, which I think is a different bulb. There are several vendors that I have found, but none are helpful in doing a comparison between incandescent and LED.
Thanks
Just replaced several of mine on my '60 CDV. Pretty straightforward except for the glovebox light which required a reverse polarity bulb (negative center post, positive metal body). The ones in the ashtrays were almost too long. Not fun fishing the bulb out when it got depressed in the socket and ejected itself. I crimped the body a little with a pair of needlenose pliers and that shortened them enough to fit.
Using super bright as the vendor and the 60 glove box light as the example their list says its a #57. They list 5 options, one is noted as polarity sensitive and the other 4 are not. The 4 are listed as AC/DC which among other things means not polarity sensitive.
I looked up the 194's I bought recently and they are noted as not sensitive so I didn't just get lucky plugging them in. If you click on their note about polarity sensitive they say if it doesn't work flip it (which is easy with the 194 style bulb) so you don't have to worry about damage at least.
First thing I would be investigating is why the interior lamps on one side are illuminating depending on which door is opened. Something is not right there.
Since power draw was mentioned as the reason for conversion to LEDs, what's the concern about the draw?
I did some on our 70 and the polarity is a real thing. I had some that didn't work so I just turned them around in the socket and they worked (obviously a different base than other types). I did them on the C pillars and the door lights because the original bulbs got hot and made the plastic brittle.
I just recently did the speedo bulbs because my old eyes have a problem seeing the dim 70s style dash lights.
I was able to dig up one of the LEDs I used. For some reason the marking on the back doesn't photograph well. But it is "8SMD-3528." Which doesn't help with identifying the color temp.
Jurassic classic has a lot of led conversion type bulbs like bayonet base and wedge
This was the supposition of the people who worked on the car because the existing plunger switch has 4 leads - the driver door plunger switch has failed, leading to that supposition. The reason that the electrical draw has become a concern is that all replacement plunger switches have 4 leads.
Thanks
David,
Which fixtures did you replace your bulbs with LED's.
Have fun,
Steve B.
Steve- LED's are in the "downlights" -the lights above the armrests on the doors and rear compartment. Other lights (map, red lenses on doors) are still incandescent.
Quote from: David Greenburg on August 13, 2025, 04:42:38 PMI was able to dig up one of the LEDs I used. For some reason the marking on the back doesn't photograph well. But it is "8SMD-3528." Which doesn't help with identifying the color temp.
That number comes up several times in searches. Pretty bad listings with conflicting specs including bulbs that don't look anything like the ones pictured. One area it says 2700k which would be normal classic bulb color but everywhere else in the listing and photo it says the color is crystal ice blue.
Quote from: Jeff Rosansky CLC #28373 on August 13, 2025, 10:13:15 AMI did some on our 70 and the polarity is a real thing. I had some that didn't work so I just turned them around in the socket and they worked (obviously a different base than other types)
It kinda seems like what we are learning is we have to do more research and find a vendor that has complete and detailed listings so we can have a decent shot at getting what we want. I think one of the issues other than manufactures and vendors that just don't care is many of these lamps were used in other than automotive applications so IF a LED was actually designed for something it may not have been for a car but vendors list them anyway.
Do any of the Cadillac (or any other brand for that matter) specialty vendors sell LED bulbs that they know are reasonable fits? Seems like there would be a market for that or is it like many other things these days were people are not willing to pay a little more for something that the vendor has taken the time to make sure is gonna work when they can just go to some random online seller that has a bunch of flashy keywords in their listing?
I have just now clicked on several other listings and when you start reading the details many of them are full of conflicts or missing critical details. Seen more than a few where the photo can't be right. If you don't really know anything about em or some details about where you are trying to put em it seems like very little chance of getting the right thing.
Some of the bulbs are only like $3 but others can be $10-20 so kinda a lot of money to just get one to test and then if find the one you like may have to pay a bunch more in shipping to get the rest. I guess thinking about it now I just spend $50 on my lawnmower with shipping.
Quote from: TJ Hopland on August 14, 2025, 05:57:06 PMIt kinda seems like what we are learning is we have to do more research and find a vendor that has complete and detailed listings so we can have a decent shot at getting what we want. I think one of the issues other than manufactures and vendors that just don't care is many of these lamps were used in other than automotive applications so IF a LED was actually designed for something it may not have been for a car but vendors list them anyway.
Do any of the Cadillac (or any other brand for that matter) specialty vendors sell LED bulbs that they know are reasonable fits? Seems like there would be a market for that or is it like many other things these days were people are not willing to pay a little more for something that the vendor has taken the time to make sure is gonna work when they can just go to some random online seller that has a bunch of flashy keywords in their listing?
I have just now clicked on several other listings and when you start reading the details many of them are full of conflicts or missing critical details. Seen more than a few where the photo can't be right. If you don't really know anything about em or some details about where you are trying to put em it seems like very little chance of getting the right thing.
Some of the bulbs are only like $3 but others can be $10-20 so kinda a lot of money to just get one to test and then if find the one you like may have to pay a bunch more in shipping to get the rest. I guess thinking about it now I just spend $50 on my lawnmower with shipping.
TJ,
LED lights are not new in the electronic world, we all know they are Light Emitting Diodes (LED) and as such they are ONLY DC devices. They required very low voltage to operate and required a resistor to drop the (input) voltage down to its operating voltage range.
The older basic LED bulbs were just that a LED plus a resistor with the newer ones these now have a "driver", these function as a voltage drop for the LED and as a DC converter making it to work with AC source.
Some vendors have the very basic LED bulbs (low $) while others have the newer ones which are advertised as DC or AC (high $), there are also other technical changes to these SMD, COB etc. that is outside the scope of the main topic above.
Even with older or newer style LED bulbs these required to have the correct polarity source at their sockets, so if the polarity is reversed they will not work.
For an LED bulb to work on either straight or reverse polarity it would require to have two LEDs one in forward and one in reverse but that would be a very complicated feature in such small footprint.
Modern sockets and glass/plastic bulb are very standard across the traditional filament and LEDs (this not true with the older sockets in some classic cars), however some suppliers have to extend the bulb to fit additional LEDs to produce more light (that is slowly changing with new LED technology).
HTH
Quote from: J. Gomez on August 14, 2025, 07:16:47 PMFor an LED bulb to work on either straight or reverse polarity it would require to have two LEDs one in forward and one in reverse but that would be a very complicated feature in such small footprint
Just need what amounts to a bridge rectifier to make em not polarity sensitive. That is the trick that is used with anything that is but you don't want it to be. Looking at the ones I just got for my lawnmower I can see a very small 4 pin device that appears to be inline between the input and leds. Guessing its doing the polarity magic as well as any voltage reduction.
What it needs is to be left alone rather than going down a rabbit's hole for no good reason. The draw concern is nonsense. If the lenses are cracking due to heat/age, replacements are available and you'll be good for another 65 years. No need to reinvent the wheel.