Just installed a seal in my 52 that was for a Chrysler 318...fits like a glove...no more rope.
Interesting! Thanks for the hint. Do you have a PN?
Is it a one piece or two piece, does the crank have to be out to install it?
My previous post was kinda stupid.
The seal has to be two piece, of course, but my real question is whether or not the crank must be removed to install the seal.
Yes, the seal is about .75" from the end of the block casting.
Manuf is Victor...JV606...57-89 Chrysler 318
It is a neoprene 2 piece seal. Victor is manuf and JV606 is part number. Crank does NOT come out.
Absolutely NOT. Call me at 919 380 0118.
What are you talking about? Seal fits perfectly, only the tabs have to cut off of one piece. Call me at 919 380 0118 if you have any questions.
This is the type of post I personally appreciate. Its been a long time since I have printed a post for future use. Now Ive printed 2 in 2 days, Porters treatise on vacuum gauges and this one.
Paul I agree with you, I find this information highly valuable since I am in the middle of rebuilding a 331 right now.
Frank, I was going to call but since others are interested and for the benefit of the board could you elaborate on how to get the seal in without removing the crank-shaft. Maybe I am overlooking something very obvious but when I look at my engine block (55 331) I can see no way to get a rear main seal into that groove with the crank in place. The only scenario I can imagine is that removing the rear bearing cap and then feeding the new seal in from one side and around the upper part of the crank. Then of course the lower part of the seal could be installed directly into the bearing cap. Im not pretending to be an expert here but if the above scenario is the case then I question the effectiveness of the seal and resulting oil seepage. A quick check of the crank dimension of the 318 might answer this question, which you may have already done.
Looking forward to your response, and thanks in advance for the insight.
I saw these posts (very good stuff) and thought Id drop a line with a question.
I need to change the rear seal on my 68 CDV convert. but am concerned that it may be beyond my abilities. Ive read the shop manual carefully and it looks like I could swing this job. The mechanic I take this to for the hard stuff (a caddy specialist) has quoted $400, but hes also warned me that twice in the 10 times hes replaced the rear seal on a 68 472cu, it does not work out and oil pours out of the new seal. He then has dropped the crank and had it scored in such a way that it threw oil back and away from the seal, thus relieving pressure. (I forget the term he used for that) That job would be an additional $1500. He is honest and is just laying out the facts, but this is really odd.
This is the big task to prep the car for sale in the Spring. Needless to say Im leaning towards doing this myself. Beyond what the shop manual says, can you offer any advice?
Thanks a lot,
Tim
Tim...As mentioned in an earlier reply the crank must be checked first and sanded if necessary. I did this after wasting 2 seal replacements. If the replacement seal for yours is neoprene it should be easy. Oil "pouring" out might mean the seal was installed in the wrong direction. You do realize that it has to go in the correct way. Taking the crank out and cutting a slinger in it is not necessary.
These message boards are nice but I do think a phone conversation would be best. I would not mind calling you if you want to give me your number.
It seems that the rear seal is a common problem, and you managed to find an elegant solution to get rid of the rope.
Your solution is working for the 331 engine and will probably not be usable on the 365 engine as there is a difference in crankshaft diameter: the 331 engine has a diameter of 2.5"; the 365 has a diameter of 2.625".
As I have 3 cars with the 365 engine and all 3 are leaking at the rear, Im looking for solutions...
Roger
Your correct in your measurments. The Chrysler seal is just about the same diameter. What I did was to look up various engines and the diameter of the rear main keeping in mind that the journal and where the seal rides may be different. Eventually I got to the 318 seal.
Frank
Hi Frank,
Very interested in this neoprene seal as I have just spent two days trying to replace the upper half of my rope seal on my 54 331 engine. This is a fully rebuilt engine and , although I turned it over every week I didnt run it for three years - guess what , it leaked from the rear seal!! I hate doing jobs twice and would be happy to call you for advice - just need to know what time zone you are in and when is the best time to call as I would be phoning from England.
I should be able to get the chrysler seal you mention easily enough over here.
Thanks,
Phil
Quote from: Phil Whyte - CLC No. 14192Hi Frank,
Very interested in this neoprene seal as I have just spent two days trying to replace the upper half of my rope seal on my 54 331 engine. This is a fully rebuilt engine and , although I turned it over every week I didnt run it for three years - guess what , it leaked from the rear seal!! I hate doing jobs twice and would be happy to call you for advice - just need to know what time zone you are in and when is the best time to call as I would be phoning from England.
I should be able to get the chrysler seal you mention easily enough over here.
Thanks,
Phil
Im in eastern time zone (North Carolina). Today is Sunday and I will be in watching football after 3pm, so any time after that. Also about noon time or 8pm during the week.
Frank