Recent posts

#91

Want To Buy - Parts / Re: 1955 Carburetor

Last post by denniscaddy - August 29, 2025, 04:30:17 PM

email your phone number to dennis@caddyparts.com and I'll text some to you.
Dennis

#92

Want To Buy - Parts / Re: 1955 Carburetor

Last post by kadillackid - August 29, 2025, 03:45:58 PM

Yes, I would indeed like to see a few photos.

#93

Technical / Authenticity / Re: Master cylinder Top

Last post by harry s - August 29, 2025, 01:30:06 PM

Some of the caps are cast material and will break with too much pressure. I would try soaking with PB Blaster and using an adjustable wrench. If that doesn't work it would be best to remove and drain so you can use some heat. As far as bleeding be sure not to let fluid drain from the lines and then bleed at the line connection after re installing. Good Luck   Harry

#94

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1960 Hydramatic...What's i...

Last post by Eric DeVirgilis CLC# 8621 - August 29, 2025, 01:17:32 PM

When moving at speed (35-50 MPH), move the selector over to the right hand drive position. It should have a distinct downshift sensation with speed abruptly reduced.

#95

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1960 Hydramatic...What's i...

Last post by Cadillac Jack 82 - August 29, 2025, 12:58:41 PM

Check your linkage.  If not adjusted properly you may only be in the lower setting of Drive.  Shifting should be almost unnoticeable.

#96

General Discussion / Re: A PURELY SPECULATIVE Discu...

Last post by "Cadillac Kid" Greg Surfas 15364 - August 29, 2025, 12:08:02 PM

Depends on the year and the system. Only the 1965 through 1976 with the POA to control evaporator pressure (and thus temperature) can keep the evaporator ice free and then only if fully charged and operating correctly.
Compressor cycling systems are definitely "iffy"
Greg Surfas

#97

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1941 Flathead with Pertron...

Last post by TJ Hopland - August 29, 2025, 11:42:14 AM

I too have had 6v era stuff that starts up every time like a modern EFI rig in any weather.  Also had other stuff where EVERY time you were not at all confident it was going to start at all, they usually did but you were never confident.   That EFI like stuff is the stuff I never really touched anything on em but change the oil. The problem stuff I'm constantly tinkering with stuff. 

Very strange considering how simple things like the carbs are on that earlier stuff.  They pretty much got the bowl and maybe 2 adjustable jets, quite different than they got later were there were all sorts of extra passages and doads for various reasons.     

#98

Technical / Authenticity / 1946-1949Master cylinder Top

Last post by Upnorth - August 29, 2025, 11:40:32 AM

Good morning I appear to be suffering from a extremely stuck master cylinder cap on my 1947 Series 62.

One issue is I cannot seem to find a wrench to fit the bolt  I thought it was 11/16

Also even with vice grips etc. it will not budge any thoughts on my dilemma would be most helpful , I would like to avoid removing it from the car.


If I do have to take it off are there and tricks on opening bleeders and bleeding the brakes

Thank you  Up North

#99

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1960 Hydramatic...What's i...

Last post by TJ Hopland - August 29, 2025, 11:34:10 AM

Kickdown kinda implies a wide open throttle on off sort of thing.   On these I believe the rod is doing stuff through its whole operating range so its a pretty critical adjustment.  Seems like where many people go wrong is changing the carb.  If the new carb doesn't have the proper geometry on the arm or different characteristics you may not be able to get it adjusted for factory like performance.   

#100

General Discussion / Re: Aftermarket Parts Getting ...

Last post by TJ Hopland - August 29, 2025, 11:13:17 AM

I don't think this is a new issue its just getting worse. Doesn't really seem to matter what brand is on the box either including the OE brand.   Maybe buying the OE means something if its a 10 or so year old rig but after that I don't think they care about the quality they just want that licence fee who ever is distributing the parts is paying them. 

What does seem to be like a newer issue is getting the wrong part in the right box. Sometimes its pretty obvious that a customer returned it for one reason or another, maybe lazy or maybe some sort of return scam where they buy some part that is worth $200 then buy a $20 part that at a glance looks similarish and shove that in the $200 box and get their $200 back and still have the $200 part. Other times that seems to happen with what appears to be a sealed package so factory mistake?  More advanced scam?