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1957 Hose blow out

Started by TBZ_57_Series_62, June 27, 2015, 12:12:02 PM

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TBZ_57_Series_62

I recently had a coolant hose blow out...water and steam under the hood... i could see it actually squirt.
It was one that runs under the carburetor... it's a braided looking hose.
There are 2 that run under the carburetor... i need to know where these run so i can replace them both.  I know they start from the pump, but where do they end?

Thanks
Ted

Walter Youshock

#1
Transmission cooler.  Same happened to me years ago.  Honestly, do yourself a favor and order a set of intake manifold gaskets.  The easiest way to replace the hoses is to remove the intake.  There are 2 large C shaped clips that hold the hoses away from the intake, heads and engine cover.

You know, as soon as you put a brand new hose in one spot, the next weakest one will blow...

CLC #11959 (Life)
1957 Coupe deVille
1991 Brougham

35-709

Right!  I'd be looking at all of the coolant hoses.
There is a fine line between "Hobby" and "Mental Illness".  Dave Barry.   I walk that line.
1935 Cadillac Sedan resto-mod "Big Red"
1973 Cadillac Caribou - now back home as of 9/2024
1950 Jaguar Mark V Saloon resto-mod - Sold
1942 Cadillac 6269 - Sold
1968 Pontiac Bonneville Convertible - Sold
1950 Packard 2dr. Club Sedan
1935 Glenn Pray - Auburn Boattail Speedster, Gen. 2

TBZ_57_Series_62

So walter, i assume these hoses attach to the transmission... where  abouts?

Also are these steel braided rubber hoses? What type of hoses are these? Are these commonly stocked at auto parts stores?

Luckily for me i rebuilt the water pump not too long ago, and i replaced all the other hoses... but these looked like such a pain at the time, i skipped them (teach me to not do it right at the time). :-\

Thanks for your help
Ted

Walter Youshock

Original was the same hose they used to go to the heater core.  It had 2 sets of 3 lines extruded on the hoses.  They weren't covered or anything.

They attach at the rear of the trans on the passenger side.  You're going to have to get under the car.  It's a real crap job.  And make sure to mark the hoses.  One is intake and one is return from the pump.
CLC #11959 (Life)
1957 Coupe deVille
1991 Brougham

TBZ_57_Series_62

The transmission hoses on mine do have some sort of braiding and by the feel of them, they are quite old (so i believed them to be original). I figured this "braiding" was some kind of heat protection.  I've seen sleeves like this before that slide over hoses for that purpose, but on these it is part of the hose itself.
so you feel the same (uncoated/unprotected) hoses that run to the heater core will work without any worries of heat causing a problem.
I've ordered a manifold gasket. After I'm sure about the hoses i will start this project... any tips about removing the manifold, replacing the gasket,  or the project in general? (Trying to avoid any new problems)

You have always been helpfully to me Walter, i can't thank you enough.

Ted

Walter Youshock

#6
Mine didn't have any heat shield and were the original hoses.  I put regular 3/4" heater hose on my car 23 yearsago and it's been fine. 

If you really want to detail your engine, now is the time to do the top cover, clean out the gunk between the cylinder banks and repaint the downdraft tube...  you'd need a top cover gasket.  All in how much you feel like doing.  If you have the Cadillac blue paint, the time and the desire, it's the perfect opportunity.

How about some photos of your hoses?  I'd like to see this heat shield.
CLC #11959 (Life)
1957 Coupe deVille
1991 Brougham

TBZ_57_Series_62

Have not started the job yet.  Attached is a photo where you can see the braiding fray at the clamp.

Walter Youshock

It's not a covering but a reinforced hose.  Those hoses were replaced once.  The original had a smoother surface with the raised lines.

Original clamps on both ends were Wittek tower clamps.
CLC #11959 (Life)
1957 Coupe deVille
1991 Brougham

TBZ_57_Series_62

I replaced the clamps when i rebuilt the waterpump.  But it good to know that the factory original were the smooth... I'm not sure how well it showed in the picture, but that braiding is how the entire tubes exterior looks.. it not just a reinforcement within the tube (as I'm used to seeing as reinforced tubes).

Am i going to have to do any adjustments, like timing etc.,after removing the intake to access the tubes?
Or should everything remain uneffective by removing the intake?

My manual does not show a good expanded image of the manifold removal from the engine... would you have an image that would be helpful?

Thanks again, I'm gaining precious info to restore my car back to factory (Which is our ultimate goal)

Ted

Walter Youshock

Only if you remove the distributor would you have to retime.  You will have to disconnect t the coil so mark the wires or just unbolt the coil plate from the intake and set it aside.

Just remove the 8 bolts that hold the intake on and lift or pry it off the engine.  You don't have to remove the carb from the manifold.  You might want to get a helper when removing the intake.  It's heavy and cumbersome.

Note how the large clamps are on now.  They have to go back in the same location under the manifold to keep the hoses away from heat.  Get a bottle of gasket shellac for the intake gaskets.  Tighten them according to the shop manual torque specs. 
CLC #11959 (Life)
1957 Coupe deVille
1991 Brougham

TBZ_57_Series_62

Do you know what the length of the hoses are? I'd like to have them purchased prior to removing the old ones (if possible) - that way I can just swap out and not mix up anything.

Thanks for all your help.
Ted

Walter Youshock

No clue.  Just replace one at a time and you'll be fine.  I'm sure you'll need at least 6 feet of hose.
CLC #11959 (Life)
1957 Coupe deVille
1991 Brougham