WTB: 1960 power seat switch and connector

[David Greenburg]

Looking for the 6-way power seat switch and plastic/Bakelite wiring connector on the back for a '60.   

[Caddyholic]

Dave

Post a picture of it. I may have one.

[60eldo]

  7 or 6 pin. I still dont know the difference but they made  both. Anyone can explain that?

[David Greenburg]

Jim- Here are pics of the switch and the connector. The switch has the part #, “4305850” on one of the mounting ears.

Johnny- It’s the 6 pin.  Do you happen to have a 6 pin plug on your parts car?  I know the switch is different, but the plug might be the same.

[60eldo]

   Dave I have the switch part for you, just not the plug. I may be able to fix your switch for you if your not sure how to.

[Caddyholic]

This is the plug I have not Sure what year it is from. My 61 switches mount different you can have the plug if it will work for you.

[David Greenburg]

Thanks, guys.  I'm interested in both your switch Johnny, and your plug Jim.  On the plug I would need to splice wires to make it work, but that shouldn't matter since there is plenty of room in the armrest. I will PM you both on later on Monday to discuss further.

[76eldo]

Twist them together and solder the connection and use shrink wrap tubing and it will be 100 percent.  Wire nuts or butt connectors are a no no here.

Brian

[David Greenburg]

Good points, Brian.  I’m still holding out hope of finding the original connector and being able to just reinstall my original wires after cleaning up the contacts to remove the molten plastic.

[Dan LeBlanc]

If you end up splicing, you'll want to do a Western Union splice.

[35-709]

   OK, you made me go look that one up!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BPZYeBtBM60 

[David Greenburg]

Indeed; I was going to ask Dan to explain, but you (tube) beat me to it.

[Dan LeBlanc]

That's the only way I do my automotive splices.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Never heard it called a Western Union Splice.

The video shows it very well, but I wish it was that easy when upside-down under a dashboard.

I like to place the Soldering Iron under the wire, so that the heat rises up through the joint, plus touching the solder onto the tip of the iron assists in the heat transfer, thus getting a better joint coverage without having to apply excessive heat to the joint.

Plus, some heavy wires need the mechanical clamping joint as I don't like putting solder under "pressure" in case the current passing through the cable compromises the solder joint, especially a starter cable.

Bruce.