Searching for replacement 346 parts

[39Flathead]

Hi all,

Looking for 2 parts. I hope someone can either direct me to a reproduction source or hopefully know of a used one floating around.

1) Clutch fork ball socket.

2) Distributor snap brackets (the small metal spring tabs that keep the distr cap on.

Would really appreciate any assistance!

Thanks

[DaveZ]

You ooking for the arm or the pivot bolt with the ball on the end? Brillman's Wire CO. has the dist clips.

[39Flathead]

You ooking for the arm or the pivot bolt with the ball on the end? Brillman's Wire CO. has the dist clips.

Is it possible to find just the ball socket? Looks to be brass and I had hoped since mine looks broken I could replace just that element...but if I need a whole new arm then I guess where would I find one?

The pivot ball is in great shape on the bellhousing.

[Bob Schuman]

For 1941 through 1948 my memory is that the ball socket was stamped into the steel clutch fork, not a separate part. For pre-1941 the fork was different, I can't advise on those years.

[fishnjim]

I had to get some "new" dist cap hold-down clips in the past for my "P", and either I found them as modern parts or from "Brillman"    www.brillman.com.   I just don't recall.   Maybe they were aftermarket by Mallory?   I don't think I had any luck at the parts stores.   May try one of the dist rebuilders.   There are a couple different ones, so getting the right thickness and length is most important.  I chagned them both so they match. 
You can bend them out/in a bit, if loose/tight.   I don't have any parts that old.   I have one '58 dist for parts.
I don't know of anyone actually selling them by part numbers.
Put a note on "wanted parts".

[39Flathead]

For 1941 through 1948 my memory is that the ball socket was stamped into the steel clutch fork, not a separate part. For pre-1941 the fork was different, I can't advise on those years.

Is this brass socket functional? Can’t tell if it’s supposed to have this cutout or if it’s damaged.

[Cadman-iac]

 I don't know squat about those older Cadillacs,  but just looking at your picture there, that opening appears to be machined, not worn into it. The edges are too square looking at least to my eyes.

Rick

[39Flathead]

I don't know squat about those older Cadillacs,  but just looking at your picture there, that opening appears to be machined, not worn into it. The edges are too square looking at least to my eyes.

Rick

My thoughts too. So unless someone says otherwise I'll go ahead and reinstall, as soon as I can figure out how the throwout bearing comes apart.

[Cadman-iac]

I don't know squat about those older Cadillacs,  but just looking at your picture there, that opening appears to be machined, not worn into it. The edges are too square looking at least to my eyes.
It looks like it's made so you can insert the ball into it, otherwise it would have been crimped all the way around the ball, and wouldn't be removable.

Rick

sorry,  I hit "quote " instead of "modify " to make additional comments.

[Cadman-iac]

My thoughts too. So unless someone says otherwise I'll go ahead and reinstall, as soon as I can figure out how the throwout bearing comes apart.

About that,  I know that later years the bearing was pressed on to the throw out sleeve,  and you used to be able to get just the bearing. I don't know if they still do that  these days.
Once the bearing is off, you might be able to clean the grease out of it and repack it in a bearing packing tool just like a wheel bearing.  It would be very messy, and you would have to clean it up really good.  The other thing is if you get too much grease in it, it will fling it out as it spins and gets hot.
Just a thought.

Rick

[39Flathead]

About that,  I know that later years the bearing was pressed on to the throw out sleeve,  and you used to be able to get just the bearing. I don't know if they still do that  these days.
Once the bearing is off, you might be able to clean the grease out of it and repack it in a bearing packing tool just like a wheel bearing.  It would be very messy, and you would have to clean it up really good.  The other thing is if you get too much grease in it, it will fling it out as it spins and gets hot.
Just a thought.

Rick

Option B, how do I remove the bearing entirely to use a new sealed unit? Anyone have an exploded diagram?

[Daryl Chesterman]

Is this brass socket functional? Can’t tell if it’s supposed to have this cutout or if it’s damaged.

Looking at the first picture above (posted at 1:38), it appears to me that the bright, shiny part in the bottom of the socket is badly corroded/eroded, and might warrant being replaced, if a better replacement can be found for a reasonable price.  I know this part doesn't see any high-speed motion (acting as a pivot point for the throw-out arm), but a socket that is in better condition would certainly be something I would want to see if I were doing the work.


Daryl Chesterman

[39Flathead]

Any ideas where I might find a replacement? Looking at the socket itself I don’t see much erosion. Might just be the picture being freshly washed and with 50 years of oily grime sitting in it.

[Tom Beaver]

That release yoke you show in the picture looks like a 37 or 38 release yoke. Any 39 or later release yoke I have seen is made of stamped steel rather than cast iron and the way they assemble is entirely different.  What you show in the picture is the ball stud retainer and it is riveted to the yoke.  Normally, the ball stud is assembled inside the retainer and the pair are riveted to the yoke, forming a single unit.  The yoke is then attached to the bell housing by holding the yoke and threading the ball stud into the bell housing mounting hole.  Most people don't know that, so when they disassemble the clutch they pry the yoke off of the ball stud essentially destroying the retainer.  Which is what you now have.  The 39 yoke has a spring steel fork attached to it, which clips over the ball stud which is mounted separately to the bell housing.  It's a much better arrangement and far easier to disassemble.

You can try to salvage the yoke by removing the retainer and reforming it and then reassembling it with the ball attached.  However if you do indeed have a 39 I would suggest you get a 39 bell housing and release yoke because the clutch release linkage is entirely different between 38 and 39.

Tom Beaver 

[Brad Ipsen CLC #737]

The 39-60S had this ball and socket style of clutch arm. The 39-50 and 61 had the later style like 40 to 48.