Found my original build sheet . Need help

[Bill Balkie 24172]

Hello,
     I was looking for one of my seat belts in the back seat  of my car and I found the original build sheet in 4 pieces . I have them between two pieces of glass to flatten them out . I wonder if there is a process to repair the document ? Looks like my car was built 06/08 (June 8th ).  I assume 1969 .  By the way the document was ripped it looks like it was attached with some type adhesive .  I am not sure . But I am glad I have all 4 parts . For now I have them Between two pieces of glass to keep them Flat .  The paper is very delicate and I would like to preserve it the best way possible . Any thoughts would be appreciated .

   Bill

[Cadillac Fleetwood]

Congratulations, Bill.  These sheets are often found in the springs of the rear seat cushion, and taped to the back sides of the door and rear quarter trim.  From memory, here's what it means:

FIRST LINE:
359 is the numerical sequence of cars built that day.
6 is June
8 is the 8th day of June [this is 1970, not 1969]
68347 means Coupe de Ville
FWD means the Fleetwood body plant, Clark Avenue, Detroit
Body 69289 means your Coupe de Ville is the 69,289th coupe de ville built for the 1970 model year, very late, and one of the last. Note: this number also appears on the firewall body plate; the body plate and the build sheet should match if this is the correct build sheet for the car.
351 means black leather
54 means Byzantine Gold metallic paint
K means black vinyl roof
2-the option package with am/fm monaural radio whitewall tires, door edge guards, 6-way seat, tinted glass, and AC.

SECOND LINE
EY means tinted glass and 6-way power seat, respectively
L=Power door locks w/seat back release-coupe (this would be M on a sedan)
K=automatic climate control
B=rear window defogger
C-I don't remember


Note: it is a common occurrence to find the wrong build sheet in the car. Because there was no requirement that the build sheet, or any specific number of them be included with the car, many cars have none at all, some have the wrong one, and others were the "dumping ground" for handfuls of them from other cars.

Charles Fares

[Bill Balkie 24172]

Hello Charles ,
    I consider it a gift when ever I hear from you . Your knowledge is second to none . Everything you explained is coordinated with my car .  How disappointing it must be to find a build sheet that has nothing to do with your car .  Not to mention confusing .  I am going to do what ever it takes to preserve this document . It means a lot to me .  I hope you and your family are well . Thank you so much for your response .

      Bill

[als58caddy]

Hi,

Nice find with the build sheet!

I'd get in touch with a book restorer as i'd imagine that they deal with damaged paper and would know the best way to fix it.

Maybe even an art restorer could give you advice...

Cheers,
Alasdair

[fishnjim]

You need to put each into one of those archival non-acid clear covers* and keep out of the light.   Store in a dark place like a cabinet.  You can press in a large book. 
I doubt it's worth spending the $ for a paper conservator.   That same info is available from the GM heritage archive for $50.

You can have them "framed" by a picture shop that'll use non-acid binding and anti-UV glass, but very expensive.
* - can buy on line.   It's how I store my sales brochures.

[Lexi]

Fishnjim is dead on. One thing I would add is that you may wish to obtain a high quality scan of it, then print 2 copies. One could be a working/reference copy. If you are so inclined you could buy a Wal-mart frame and display the other. Als58caddy's suggestion is also right on if you don't mind spending the money. Clay/Lexi

[59-in-pieces]

Bill,
From what I have learned when framing my automotive "paper goodies' like original lituraturee etc, is never use non-glare glass.
Although at the time I found out that in order to take away the slick shinny surface and get the matt looking surface, the surface of the glass is treated with acid.
And much to my surprise, the acid remains in the pours of the glass and over time will migrate out to whatever - like paper - and eat it up or bleach the printing and colors out.

I agree with you completely, there is nothing better than the real thing and no photo copy you might make or $50 you may pay others for the info. could take the place of "YOUR" car's build sheet.

Take care in how to preserve your find and go to the pros. to learn how best to do that, and maybe have them do it.

Have fun,
Steve B.

PS
I like looking at photographs of all manner of animals,
I like going to the museum to view in a diorama all manner of stuffed animals.
I like watching videos of all manner of animals.
I enjoy going to the zoo to watch all manner of live animals.

But nothing is the same or can be better than having your own real dog.
GET THE POINT.

[Lexi]

I did not know that some glass retained acid that could migrate and thus degrade paper products over time. Very interesting. Wonder if there is a way to cleanse the acid remnants out? As for me, I agree that nothing can take the place of the real document. That must be preserved as part of the history of the car. How Bill does that will depend on how deep his pockets are and how motivated he is in that regard. Regardless of his choice, I would still obtain a good quality scan of it. That saves the original from unnecessary handling which translates into "wear & tear". Think of scans and prints as "back up copies" to use a computer term. Always good to back up. Jim's suggestion to store the original in an acid free clear cover out of sunlight is what would work for most of us. Clay/Lexi

[Bill Balkie 24172]

Hello ,
    Thank you to all . All of your suggestions are good  Food for thought . I do not have deep pockets but I do not have  problem   paying a professional to Guide me through a sound decision .  I like the idea of having the original build sheet . I have to tell you back in 2008  ordered a build sheet from the Cadillacs Heritage Association  for my 1957 Seville . I was very impressed with the product . They mailed me   A very impressive detailed Envelope that contained information of my car . A copy of the build sheet that included 20 maybe 25 other cars On one sheet . They highlighted my car with a yellow high lighter . To make it easier to read . They labeled by hand every option the car came with . They took the time to do this .Later on ( 2011 ) I purchased a 1957 Biarritz . I sent away for the build sheet and they e mailed me back I believe it was a PDF file of my car that included  20 to  25 cars .   All the other cars were listed . It was what looked to be a copy of micro fish . I was not that impressed . When I purchased my 1970 I did the same thing . They sent me back Via E mail a file just like the one I received from my Biarritz . I could just about read the print very small and blurry . My point  is the  The build sheet they send you is not the same build sheet you find in your car . The build sheet they send you is on a 8X 10 sheet with many other cars  . The  build sheet in the car is  4 x 8   And it only pertains to your car .  I have included two pictures to show the difference .

    Thanks ,
           Bill

[76eldo]

The one for my 70 DeVille was also found under the rear seat.
I did a scan of it at 600 dpi and out the original in a Manila envelope for now.

I don’t think you have to go Smithsonian on it.
After all it lived for 50 years under a car seat.

[Bill Balkie 24172]

Hello Brian ,
       The problem with mine it’s in 4 different pieces.  I need to get it repaired .

       Bill

[76eldo]

Scotch tape from the back side.

[Jason Edge]

Hello Brian ,
       The problem with mine it’s in 4 different pieces.  I need to get it repaired .

       Bill

As Brian indicated get a good clean scan. 600 dpi is a great resolution and should capture all the details. You can digitally splice the 4 sections together to make a nice like new build sheet.   Any photograph or paper items is in a constant state of deterioration so get that scan ASAP, especially now that it has been pulled out from under the seat and has been exposed to light. From there, I would save the original in a dark place and display a "fixed" or as original print from the scans, so no issue with glass, light damage, etc. regarding the original ... and maybe even save it another 50 years.

After the scans of 4 sections I would do 3 things: take the 4 digital scans and splice together digitally (if you don't have the softare/abililty to do this others can) make a "like new" version for reference; then take the 4 original pieces and gently attach to a single sheet of paper (I like the glue dot rollers), and put together like a puzzle,  and get another scan like this, like you found it and that is the version I might frame... patina, tears and all; then take the original 4 pieces tacked to the sheet of paper and save in an acid free sheet protector and save in a 3 ring binder, photo album, notebook, etc.

[colorado4x4]

Interesting discussion........... When I get home tonight, I am excited to go pull up the rear seat on the '70 Deville Convertible that I bought over the weekend to see if a build sheet is there.  Fingers crossed.   

There are some interesting historical docs in the glove box that brought to light an interesting circle of life on this car, so an original build sheet would be an additional jewel.

[wrefakis]

70 BODY TAG   have never seen one with "H"option code and trumpet horn would not be body tag option
as an aside, this has to be my all time wish list car firemist paint, 60/40 split seats, contrasting laces never found one like it

[PKosnik]

Bill,
My other hobby is comic book collecting and preservation is a big part of that hobby especially if you are into the older books as i am.  I have two presses that i use to press comic books and these can be used for documents as well.

Awesome find and congratulations!  You have options.  As some have said, you can go full professional restoration.  A qualified restoration expert will be able to put all of your pieces back together and uses only archival and reversible processes.  This is top-shelf.  In comics, folks shy away from restoration, it actually lowers the value on the secondary market because discriminating collectors would rather see a book with some patina that is an honest book than something that is prettier but has had material added.  Still, there are folks out there that will do it for you if this is what you want.  I imagine this will be hundreds of dollars.

There are also amateur restoration options.  I don't recommend because they cost nearly as much professional but are not reversible and not always archival.

You can also get your build sheet liquid cleaned and pressed.  Cleaning materials can be water, peroxide or other liquids.  These can remove stains and afterward the pages are pressed to remove any folds, waviness, creases etc.  This is slightly more invasive (and expensive) than the next option below.  Cost for wet cleaning will be between restoration and dry cleaning below.

Next option would be to have the build sheet pages dry cleaned and pressed.  This preserves the original paper and removes wear and tear to a certain degree but does not add anything to the book.  Materials used to clean the paper are less invasive and only foreign matter and wear and tear are removed so it is not considered restoration.  To maximize the paper quality and press, the pages should be stored in a humidity tank prior to pressing.  This is also relatively affordable, i would expect around $50-100 would be top shelf here.

After any of these options, store only in archival mylar or under glass.  Other plastics can be marketed as archival but are not.  Personally i only use E Gerber products but it's difficult to purchase them in small numbers.  Perhaps you can get some from a local comic book shop.  If you let me know the dimensions i may be able to send you just the number you need if they are a size i have on hand.

I'm not sure if a previous poster was serious or joking, but DO NOT put the pages together with Scotch tape.  It is acidic and will destroy the paper in a few years.

Feel free to PM me if you want to discuss in further detail or you need help finding a professional in your area that can help you.

best,
Paul

[Bill Balkie 24172]

Hello Paul ,
    I sent you a PM I hope it found it’s way to you .
     
       Bill