1960s Bristol Blue modern color code

[dbzsjones]

Hi again,
  Thank you all for your help on previous questions.  I'm in the process of restoring my grandmothers 1961 Series 62 convertible and I'm faced with a paint dilemma.  I'm going back to factory color Brisol Blue code #22 and PPG code DDL-32099.  When the body shop put 22 and 1961 Cadillac into their PPG computer system is spit out a different code and name.  I think the code was 33058.  They shot a small panel and is some lite it looks grey, in other light is looks like a match.  We've held it up to the jam and and it looks like a dead match with the light and one angle and then more gray at another angle.  Is there a definitive reference that links old codes to new codes?  I'm guessing the difference might be the modern base/clear paint system vs the original method.  I'm trying to avoid a car that rolls out of the paint booth looking gray rather, than Bristol Blue.  Any wisdom or advice greatly appreciated.
Thank you again,
Del

P.S. I do plan to add a thread to the restoration corner forum in the not to distant future.

[Clewisiii]

I think it is a metal flake issue. I am told the particle sizes of the flake are different now.

I had paint made from code and paint made from scans on my York Blue.

Both have a different metal flake look to my original. I also polished the heck out of my only existing original painted panel to try to dig down into fresh paint yo check the color. Here is one of my test paint panels out on a winter day.

[dbzsjones]

I think it is a metal flake issue. I am told the particle sizes of the flake are different now.

I had paint made from code and paint made from scans on my York Blue.

Both have a different metal flake look to my original. I also polished the heck out of my only existing original painted panel to try to dig down into fresh paint yo check the color. Here is one of my test paint panels out on a winter day.

Thanks for the insight, did you decided to go with the code or the scan version, and are you happy with the results?  I feel like for long term upkeep going with a standard modern code formula will make any future paint work much less risky.

[Clewisiii]

I have not painted yet. I have not made my final decisions.

[V63]

The original finish/pigments and codes were all lacquer and effectively OBSOLETE.

The best bet is to go thru modern ' chips' color selection sample book and pick a close representation and have it 'spray matched' to taste.

[PHIL WHYTE CLC 14192]

You can get your original paint spectographically matched if there's enough of it left on your car in good condition (ie underside of the trunk lid etc.

[dbzsjones]

You can get your original paint spectographically matched if there's enough of it left on your car in good condition (ie underside of the trunk lid etc.

Thank you, I need to talk to my body shop and see if they can facilitate that, I have a couple spots of original paint that were well protected from the elements.

[dbzsjones]

Just a quick update on the current color match challenge for anyone following this post.

  The body shop called in the PPG folks to do a camera color match before I could ask.  (Good shop)
So now I have 2 samples, the current PPG formula for color code 22 (Bristol Blue) which is 33508, and a custom color match based on the camera.  They sprayed a sample card about 4"x6" with each and the difference between the 2 is pretty amazing.  The camera based sample is darker, sampled off the bottom of the hood.  Both samples are more grayish then bluish, but if you hold them up to an existing section of old paint in some light they both look like exact matches and in other light they both look very different from the original color.  So now we're on to plan C, the paint tech is going to use his experience to blue up the base PPG 33508 formula.  In stock paint the car always looked light blue, I'm concerned that the modern colors are turning up to gray.  I'm trying to avoid a car that looks blue in the right light, but gray in other lighting.  I feel like a Bristol Blue car looks sky blue in normal lighting and I'm afraid of the 2 current options both being to gray in normal ambient light.  I'm sure the fact that new paint is all 2 stage the clear code is effecting how we see the color coat, but I'm not sure how to interpret that from a small sample to a whole car.  They are going to spray a larger panel with the colors for the next comparison, so that might help.

  If anyone else has had the joy of matching Bristol Blue I'd appreciate hearing about your experience.
Thanks,
Del