1960s 62’ Bendix Master Cylinder.

[Ruztytin]

Hello,

  Has anyone here rebuilt a 62'-63' Bendix master cylinder before?

I have a dual port 617398 master cylinder and I can't seem to remove the plunger from it.

I removed the retainer clip but it won't pull out. Am I missing something, or is it just stuck in there?

Also, is there a search feature for the forum? I wanted to search the topic but I couldn't seem to find a way of doing so.

Thanks in advance.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

In most cases I have had when rebuilding any Master Cylinder is that it involves a lot of holding the unit in one hand, and not-so-carefully, bashing the case down onto a hard surface, leaving sufficient room for the plunger to "drop" out when the body suddenly stops.

These old units can have a lot of build-up inside them, making the piston hard to remove.

Some times, I have had to do some encouraging by pushing the piston back in, and banging, again and again.

A word of CAUTION.    Keep the fingers clear, and wrap the unit with a rag, so that any spurts of brake fluid cannot spray out everywhere.

Bruce.  

[Ruztytin]

I appreciate your response. I'm pretty sure it's just stuck but it was recently overhauled when I purchased it.

Everything looks really clean, so I started second guessing if there was another clip or method of removal I was missing.

I'm going to try the law of motion removal method that you mentioned.

Clearly the overhaul went south since I can't get pressure at the front brakes.

Appreciate the help.

[Clewisiii]

I bought a 62 bendix unit to restore and use on my 61. I want original look but I want two zone.

I am told I bought the harder to find parts for option for 62.

I don't really know what I am doing in rebuilding it. So if you come across more info you would like to share please do.

[dadscad]

My 63 came with the bendix master cylinder. I sent it to a rebuilder for a rebuild many years ago. When I got it back and installed I had a problem with the front brakes, they would gradually lock up after driving for a while. It was a confusing situation, first applications of the brakes seemed normal but after repeated use and heat build up they would quit releasing and lock up. Took a few days to discover the rebuild mistake. The technician that did the job put the residual pressure valve in backwards. It wouldn't allow fluid to return quickly to the master cylinder after brake applications. The valve is located behind the large nut where the front brake line attaches to the master cylinder. I discovered this by studying the factory shop manual section for the brakes. Studying the exploded view of the master cylinder was where I discovered the mistake. I correctly installed the valve and ran that cylinder until it started leaking fluid into the booster.

[Ruztytin]

Hey,

  CLewisiii.  I too am installing this 62' Bendix unit on a 61'. But my 61' has a 59' firewall since it's a series 75. Regardless, I will share you need to use the 62' vacuum booster since Bendix did change the booster out between the years.

I initially tried using the 62' master cylinder on a 61' booster and it can't be done. Well, at least not without some modification.

I believe the rebuild kit is a Raybestos MK388. I'd say 90% sure, I was going to take mine apart and compare the seals in the image to be certain.

Dadscad-

  Thank you for sharing this. I did remove that pressure valve and I was questioning how it was installed. The pressure in the front system is the main culprit. I'm going to start hunting for an exploded view of this master cylinder.

Appreciate the help.

[dadscad]

Attached, exploaded view from 63 shop manual. If the image is not clear, the feet of the valve face the master cylinder and spring.

[Ruztytin]

Dadscad-

  This is great. Thank you. I was honestly contemplating ordering a shop manual for a 62' or 63' just to have one.

Thanks again.

[35-709]

That is always a good idea.