1967 Cadillac shop manual storage procedure

[badpoints]

I was just reading through my shop manual yesterday. I wonder if anyone would be brave enough to follow the long term storage preparations. It involves running the engine at 2000 RPM and then pouring a pint of oil down the carburetor and then pouring oil in the carb until the engine stalls. Seems like if it is done improperly some serious damage could occur.

[TJ Hopland]

Interesting.  You would have thought there were likely several 'fogging' oil products available at the time.  Seems like something ACDelco could have sold as a kit.

[Roger Zimmermann]

For about 2 weeks, I drove both cars I have till they were warm, drove them back into the garage. I will pump the tires to a higher pressure and will awake the cars next April. I'm doing that since 40 years with no issue.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

What does it mean to put a car into storeage?

Sometimes I don't use my cars for a year or so, and all I do is pour a bit of petrol down the carby, and crank it over, and it immediately starts.   Sometimes needs another go, as the fuel pump feeds the carby and all is good.

When COVID19 reared its' ugly head my Caddy didn't get used for 2 years, as in the middle, I replaced the upholstery, and therefore couldn't drive it anyway, but a shot of petrol in the carby was all it needed.

I read the Shop Manual one day, and if I had to do what was described if not using the car for 2 Months, it wouldn't be worth owning any car as the maintenance was so exhaustive, and expensive.

Bruce.

[Alan Harris CLC#1513]

My 1969 Cadillac shop manual also gives instructions on storing the car. In two years, evidently, they gave up on the idea of pouring oil down the carburetor. It seems to me that if someone was concerned about rusting in the cylinders, it would help to remove each spark plug, spray in some silicone spray or WD40 or penetrating oil, and then put the plugs back in.
 

[dn010]

FIWI, I have pulled the head(s) off good engines from cars that have sat 30+ years and there was never a spot of rust on the cylinders.

[Lexi]

Like others who responded, I don't get it. Mine sits 6 months over the winter season and is fine upon start up. Before parking, I take her for a run to fully warm up the engine and burn off any moisture. I then fill the gas tank with non-ethanol gas and put stabil in the fuel, inflate the tires to 40 - 42 PSI, then park in storage. I do put a 10 amp charger on the battery for 45 minutes to an hour to hopefully knock off (at least) some of the sulphation on the plates that may have accumulated; then connect a smart charger which is monitored. Of course all fluid levels are also checked. Clay/Lexi

[TJ Hopland]

A lot depends on the ambient conditions and how consistent they are.  Temperature swings are what causes condensation and that is what really gets rust going.  You could be in a damp climate but if you can keep the car from experiencing daily temp swings it will still likely fare pretty well. 
 

[badpoints]

My car sat for more than 20 years in an old poured cement garage, which is half underground. The car didn't rust much over the 20 years. I would start the engine once or twice a year. 

[TJ Hopland]

Half underground is good for temperature stability, especially if the same garage isn't also being used for daily drivers. 

[jwwseville60]

If I were storing a car for a year or more in a heated garage, I would do 45 psi in the tires, Stabil 360 and Marvels in the tank, and definitely use a dehumidifier set to 50-60% humidity. This will greatly help prevent the buildup of water condensation.

Two gallons of non-ethanol leaded race gas is good insurance in a full or 3/4 full tank since T-lead is a gas preservative. Or if you are really determined, use a full tank of non-ethanol race gas. (Avgas 100LL has some additives you don't want).

I got this advice from a mechanic friend's father, Bill Anderson Sr., a master mechanic, classic car restorer, Cadillac owner, WW2 vet and piston engine airline pilot. Yes, the mechanics at Pan Am used gallons of Marvels Mystery Oil. Bill watched them rebuild many engines.

• Be advised... Stabil can go bad after a few years and it smells worse. It darkens in color and can be sticky. Buy new every year. Once opened it now has a date marker on the label. Use it. Its good for one year (Id say 6 months) after opening.

Before start up, I would pull the plugs and squirt Marvels into the cylinders. I would wait 8 hours just to be safe. Crank the engine for at least 6-8 full revolutions to build up some oil pressure. Now switch on the electric pump for 30 seconds if you have one. Start it up. Once it has started, the immense pressure of 1200 rpm is really hard on a cold vintage engine that is 50-110 years old.
Remember, metal fatigue is a real issue for us.

The issue is engine wear and stress on a cold start. These are common sense preventative measures.

In the old days, Bill said gasoline had many more lubricants in it almost like diesel fuel. Today's ethanol gas has very few, it's designed for high pressure EFI and modern engine component metals and alloys. Thankfully, modern engine oils are much better.

I always keep these images in mind.....

[Lexi]

If I were storing a car for a year or more in a heated garage, I would do 45 psi in the tires, Stabil 360 and Marvels in the tank, and definitely use a dehumidifier set to 50-60% humidity. This will greatly help prevent the buildup of water condensation.

Great advice John. A dehumidifier is always a good addition to one's storage regimen. I also cover the car which helps keep contaminants from working their way into the paint and parking where there is no sunlight entering the space. Park in the dark. Anti-vermin measures are also required for many of us. Also, is it possible to explain exactly what Marvel Mystery Oil does in the fuel system, during regular engine use and also why you would add it to a fuel system in an engine destined for long term storage? What does it do? Was going to add some prior to storing Lexi but was not 100% sure if there were any clear advantages. Also, when increasing air pressure in tires for long term storage when mounted on a vehicle, are there precise rules for PSI inflation with respect to whether the tires are bias or radial? In other words does the tire constrution dictate what degree of over inflation one would use? Thanks. Clay/Lexi

[Cadman-iac]

 I'm curious about the reasons for over-inflating the tires. Is this to prevent any flat spots, or is there another reason?

 Rick

[dn010]

You know, just about every forum has someone telling you to inflate your tires to 45-50psi in order to stop flat spotting. The reality is if you check tire manufacturer's websites or other legitimate websites, they'll tell you to keep the tires at the vehicle's recommended PSI or to "slightly" over-inflate to prevent flat spots. No one recommends inflating to max PSI listed. If you're worried about flat spots- get tire cradles, or just drive your vehicle after storage.

[Lexi]

Assist in keeping flat spots from forming some say. The tire cradles Dan mentioned may be better. Not sure. My new Cokers quicklly developed cracks when new, prior to storage. I think in that case Coker hs some quality control issues. Clay/Lexi

[dn010]

The best way if you're going really long term is to put the car up so the suspension is unloaded and the tires are off the ground, but that is a PITA as one cannot move the car around easily if needed. I've had cars sit for years, especially during my time in the Army and never did any sort of preventative measures except one car with tire cradles once. Flat spots seemed to work themselves out easily for me in each case but I can only speak for myself. Never had any mechanical issues, even when my cars sat outside throughout the dreaded update New York winters and mild summers - I'm so glad those days are over!

[Jon S]

For about 2 weeks, I drove both cars I have till they were warm, drove them back into the garage. I will pump the tires to a higher pressure and will awake the cars next April. I'm doing that since 40 years with no issue.

Me too!  Everything else is over-kill!  Oh, I also top off the gas tank.

[Lexi]

Flat spots that I did note forming over a few months prior to me over inflating my tires did "resolve" themselves once driven and rather quickly. I also was of the opinion that putting a car up on blocks was best for extreme long term storage. That said, in some cases that may be detrimental to certain components.

In the June 2022 Self Starter I had an article published in the tech section on a flaw in the design of the rear cross member (in front of the fuel tank), in 1956 Cadillacs and back to at least about 1950 or even earlier. The rear shocks are mounted to that unit which is only spot welded together at the factory. In time I have seen cases where those spot welds fail, (see the article). Happened to my car with disastrous results. What I did not say is that it is probable, if not highly probable that leaving my car up on a lift for some 3 months in a shop (for other matters), with the wheels hanging down, may have put an undue strain on that already failing component, thus expediting it's failure.

Don't think this is an issue with the 1957 Cadillac with the new frame design and the shorter length of rear cross member.

May also not be an issue with cars that are intact, but we are dealing now with cars that are pushing 70 to near 75 years old. As my mechanic said, "GM didn't expect these cars to be creeping around the planet some 65 years later". Sadly, we can't take things for granted when dealing with vehicles of that age due to metal fatigue etc. So, depending on design, it may not be a good idea to leave a car suspened on blocks, or up in the air, for an extended period of time. In other cases it may not be a factor. Lots of variables. Something to consider. Clay/Lexi                                         

[jwwseville60]

5 psi under max is ideal.