1950s 1959 Valve cover gaskets

[gypsy56@bellsouth.net]

Hello, I have replaced the valve covers gaskets velpro cork type. I was told not use permatex with the cork gaskets, well they are leaking worse than before.  I believe I used permatex on them 10/12 years ago?  They were leaking, but had a hard time getting off.

Is there a source for the vinyl/pvc type gaskets with the metal inset bolt tabs??
 
    Any tricks, the valve covers are in good shape and lay flat on the work bench.  I was thinking of using the permatex on the valve cover installing the gasket and laying them on the bench with the weight of the cover to setup and then installing them after a day or two??  Thanks Bill

[dn010]

If you just replaced them and they're leaking, you might look at the mounting tabs to make sure an edge or corner of the gasket didn't slip out of place during installation, causing a gap where the oil can get out.

I just went through the same thing recently - I got 15 years out of my cork valve cover gaskets and apparently I used cork with Permatex RTV on mine back then. I replaced it using Felpro (thick) gaskets and Permatex Indian Head Shellac. Cork is supposedly designed to install dry but I've always used some sort of sealant on them. So far I have no problems but if you use shellac beware that it can get all over the place and create a mess. It also hardens making changing gaskets in the future more difficult since you have to scrap the old off before putting in the new. As on any engine, gaskets won't last forever no matter if they're cork or rubber, and will eventually begin to seep/leak.

[Cadillac Jack 82]

Make sure your valve covers aren't bent either.  If they were tightened down too tight they might have bent causing a gap in the gasket and the cover.

[Michael Petti]

I have always used Permatex on the valve cover, and yes, I have to scrape a little to remove the old gaskets.

[David Greenburg]

And be sure the valve covers aren't bent. They can "sit flat" on the vertical edge, but what matters is the horizontal edge where the gasket sits, especially around the bolt holes.

[Chopper1942]

Cork gaskets work great if properly installed. I use Permatex Hi Tack on both sides of the gasket. It allows the covers to be removed and cleans up with lacquer thinner. As stated make sure the gasket surface is flat. TORQUE the valve cover bolts to OE specs. Do not just crank them down tight. You will split the gasket. Rubber gaskets have a bad habit os working themselves out of place. They used to make a coated paper gasket for some applications that worked great, but I don't know if they are available anymore. They could tolerate being overtorqued better than cork.

[59-in-pieces]

Guys,

Don't want to overlock what maybe the obvious.

I didn't see anybody talk about the valve cover bolts and butterfly washers.

I have seen on parts cars that I have scavenged parts, the lack of correct bolts with hardware store types and hardware store washers too.

I attached a picture of both the correct flanged head bolts and the butterfly washers.
Hope they help.

Have fun,
Steve B.

[Cadillac Jack 82]

Those are certainly the correct application for the valve covers but its easy, especially with a thick gasket, to overtighten the valve covers.  Almost did that on my 64 when I redid the covers.

[Lexi]

You may have to find a straight metal form and gently tap the valve cover's outer rim (where the bolt holes are), back to 180 degrees. Keep checking with a straight edge for true. Clay/Lexi

[Bob Kielar]

A engine rebuilder friend of mine uses this Permatex product it has a fast curing time works great and comes off like other products. He also uses the spring type cloths pin method you see in the picture and lets it set up so the gasket doesn't slide upon installation. He also puts the same Permatex on the head surface.
Keep Cruzin,
Bob