Pre-war (up to 1942) 1941 Brakes and Bearings

[Dmulcron]

Hi all -- Grinding noise coming from the front of my 1941 Series 61. Doing some inspection that includes some disassembly. I have new wheel bearings, so I figured I'd change them out while I have things apart.

A couple of questions:

1) What tool is best to remove the inner bearing race? I am going to cold chisel it out unless there is a preferred method.

2) The brake drums look worn. Not terrible, but worn. I can get them turned, although I know there is a finite number of times I can get that done (and I don't know how many times they've been turned in the past). I don't see replacement drums anywhere. Is there a custom drum service that could reproduce or repair the drums? I recognize I can convert to disc brakes, which I am not opposed to, but I'd like to stay as original as possible.

3) When I took the drum off, I noticed that the bottom spring pulling the shoes together is impeding the ability to turn the adjuster. Is this by design? I can't find any other spring configuration that would not impede the adjuster, but it makes it very difficult to adjust the shoes.... unless someone put the wrong spring in prior to me? ... In which case I would really appreciate it if someone could point me to front drum brake replacement parts.

Thanks so much.

Dan Mulcrone

[TJ Hopland]

I don't know that system specifically but typically there is something like a spring that keep the adjuster from freely turning form the normal vibration and operation.  On self adjusting ones its the adjusting mechanism that keeps them from loosening.  Without self adjusters its often the spring that holds the shoes to the adjusting bar.  It should not be preventing movement just acting more like a ratchet so it not just going to vibrate and adjust.

Are your shoes still good?  If they are they should be worn into the wear in the drums so still having good contact area which should still then be performing reasonably well so I would just leave em alone.  Its when the shoes need replaced that you have to really evaluate things. 

If the surface is rough you don't have a lot of choice but if its smooth just grooved you have to evaluate what percentage of surface contact you will have with new shoes.  IF its gonna be like 90% you are probably fine but if its like 25% groove that 25% less surface in contact and that is a big reduction in performance. 

The other problem now days with turned drums is there is hardly any shops around anymore that will 'arc' the new shoes to the exact size of the drums.  Back in the day that was a standard surface and most shops had the machines to do it.  You put standard shoes in a oversize drum you won't get full contact because the curves don't match.  It will wear in but there will be reduced performance till that happens. 

[J. Russo]

The bottom spring on my 1941 Series 63 keeps the adjuster from turning freely.

[TJ Hopland]

I forgot to mention or ask about the bearings,  is the design different than later ones so the typical rear axle bearing puller tools don't work?  The kind that looks and works like the classic toggle bolt that you then use a slide hammer on?

[Dmulcron]

Thank you both. It seems like the spring I have is correct, so I'm just going to re-use it.

Really appreciate the advice on the drums. They're grooved but not rough. I agree that the best thing to do is leave them alone... But some day I know I'm going to run in to the issue of needing to replace them.

I'm going to have to try a rear axle bearing puller on that front race... I'd rather it come out in one piece so I can use it to seat the new race.

Thanks again for the advice. Relatively new to the hobby and doing what I can to learn. 

[Jay Friedman]

Hi all -- Grinding noise coming from the front of my 1941 Series 61. Doing some inspection that includes some disassembly. I have new wheel bearings, so I figured I'd change them out while I have things apart.

A couple of questions:

1) What tool is best to remove the inner bearing race? I am going to cold chisel it out unless there is a preferred method.

According to my 1935-55 Master Parts Manual, the '41 front brake drum has a different part number than the '42-'49 front drum.  How it is different the manual doesn't say. Having said that, on my '49's front drum the surfaces which both the inner and outer races abut against is "castellated"; that is, it's a round surface which has several gaps in its circumference.  If you look down into the hole in the middle of the drum (which I call the "bearing compartment") from the inside of the brake drum you can see this clearly on the surface the outer race sits against. 

To remove either race on a '49 drum, you place a long punch or other rod from the other side of the drum into the hole and through one of the gaps against the back of the race.  You then hammer against the other end of the rod to drive out the race.  Place the rod or punch against each "gap" in turn and give it a few hammer blows to drive out the race evenly.  I hope the '41 drums are constructed the same and that I explained this clearly. 

I'm in the Georgia section of the CLC directory.  If you send me an email I'll reply with a photo showing this.  (I don't know how to post photos to this web site.)

[TJ Hopland]

If you don't have a puller and slide hammer and you have a local parts store or rental center it may be worth seeing if they have one for rent.  Trucks till very recently still used solid rear axles so there is still some demand for those tools. 

If you have the axles out you may be able to feel or use a dental mirror to see what is exposed behind the races.  Hopefully there is room for a puller too to grab. 

[39LaSalleDriver]

Looking at the 41 Shop Manual, it appears to be almost exactly like my 39. That being the case, follow Jay's advice above and use a punch from the back side of the hub to knock it out.