1932 Cadillac V16 scale model

[Roger Zimmermann]

On the real cars, the dash is attached on the side with 4 screws in total. I could replicate the brackets, but I could not put any screws due to the position. Therefore, I changed the way of attachment: the dash will rest on two lateral supports having a provision for a bolt each side.
The upper part of the dash is also fixed to the wood structure with four or five screws. I have no wood structure, but I could solder two small brackets for the to be born dash.
I also realized that the job with soldering was not yet over: the lower part of the body has a rather large molding which was pressed into the sheet metal. I used solid brass to replicate the molding. There is also a less wide in-pressed molding running the length of the car; I soldered two bits of brass at a location I hope is more or less correct in "altitude" and they should be horizontal. It could be that I will have to rework those short moldings when the hood will be done.

[Roger Zimmermann]

A bit of filler to correct some irregularities and a coat of primer is making a lot of difference! As it can be seen on the attached pictures, the surface is not yet ready for paint. The cowl will stay that way for some more time, but now I have a good base to continue towards the front or the rear.

[cadman59]

Absolutely amazing!
I really admire your work, such craftsmanship.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Thanks Feiko!

[Big Fins]

In a lean time in my life I took work as a carpenter. While doing an interior remodeling job, a painter said to me, 'It's us painters that make you carpenters look good'. In essence, that's very true.

[Roger Zimmermann]

From another forum I had a similar comment! The fact is that my constuction could be very nice just in raw brass IF there were no mistakes and corrections with soft solder or tortured surfaces...

[Roger Zimmermann]

All elements from the front end are tied together: the cowl, the radiator surround, the central hood hinges, the upper hood panels and so on.
To have the cowl at its correct position, a bit of the floor should be done, the buck for the hood panels is also needed. It's done, but the battery for the camera decided to go empty, therefore the picture will come later. Another element is also needed: the molding between hood and cowl. The purpose from this molding is not clear to me; I have the impression that it's just an artifice to hide the misalignment between hood and cowl: as some identical body styles were used on V-8, V-12 and V-16 frames, the line cowl/hood cannot be flowing.
Anyway, I finished this molding as the shape of the cowl is now set. I added a small lip which go over the cowl, hiding the imperfection of the cowl where the molding is meeting it. 
Thanks to Johan, I got details how the hood is articulated at the middle. I'm not sure if I will be able to replicate the original system as it required three profiles which must be almost perfect.

[Roger Zimmermann]

There are periods which I'm doing a bit from this or that. Due to the reasons I described recently about the hood, I began to tackle the body's floor. It's mainly a wood construction, but not only. I began with the side beams which are connected to the cowl and go till the end of the car. The beams were screwed at the cowl; when I'm ready for that, I will glue them, it better against road vibrations!
I'm using plywood for those beams: strong enough and light.
The outer lines are not yet trimmed. All will be done in due time...
I'm also adding the promised picture from the hood's buck. I wanted to buy a transparent product for the wood but I choose the wrong one. I'll get the clear one next week, but to bend the hood panels on the buck, that white stuff will be also OK.

[Roger Zimmermann]

While I was at it, I continued with the floor. There is mainly wood, but there are also large steel panels which were installed. What I'm doing is more or less correct; some elements are done the way I think they may be correct. As reference, I'm using many pictures from a '32 All Weather Phaeton which has a different floor at the rear than the convertible. I have also some good pictures from Paul, some from a LaSalle convertible (same body as I'm doing), the mix will give something not too far from the reality.
Before I can glue some crossmembers, I have to finish the milling from the side rails, otherwise, when assembled, I will not be able to perform more machining.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Some progress was done at the floor; it's now definitively attached to the cowl as the two remaining cross members at the rear will just be glued on the side rails.
The remaining open space at the rear will be closed with brass.

[dadscad]

 Looking great! I always look forward to seeing one of your model building updates. Thanks for sharing the progress!

[Roger Zimmermann]

Vacation is always delaying the construction; now with the Autumn weather, the construction is again actual!
The last wood cross members were added; the rear one will be trimmed when I know exactly where the body is ending.
When I glued the rails over the rear axle, I did not notice that they were not exactly in the same plan. I tried to make them wet and, when the wood was dry, the shape was corrected. Try that with a steel or brass construction!
I also glued the "rocker panels" to the main rails; they are not yet trimmed. The floor just in front of the rear tires may be too narrow; I will have to ask my contact in the Netherlands for the correct width.
Thanks to the pictures and dimensions from Paul Ayres, I could do the filler panel over the rear axle.  There are some differences in comparison with his pictures; I had to adapt the various stampings with the existing frame. This is the proof that my construction is not 100% accurate, but who cares?

[Ralph Messina CLC 4937]

Roger,

This surpasses your fabrication of the astounding MKII miniature.... Simply amazing.

Ralph

[Roger Zimmermann]

Thanks Ralph! I would not say it that way as the design is totally different. Anyway, one thing is sure: my build on the Mark II is much more precise as I had a lot of documentation. For the Cadillac I have many pictures, but guessing a dimension based on pictures is usually a fiasco!

[Roger Zimmermann]

There is a space at the rear from the rumble seat; this space, which is over the fuel tank, is closed by a simple sheet metal tray. This completes the not removable elements from the floor. At the front there are other removable elements which are not yet done.
As the firewall is now well attached to the floor/frame, I can go back to the hood.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Recently, I took the decision to use .4 mm (0.01575") thick brass for the hood's top panels; previously, I thought that .3 mm would be fine, but it leaves not too much metal to correct small bumps. It takes much more strength to bend the thicker brass, but now there is enough material to perform small corrections by sanding the panels. I will not have to solder strips of brass at the flanges, it's rigid enough.
Those panels (the second one can be seen at the back) will stay that way for some time: I have to do first the radiator surround; this part will dictate how the panels have to be trimmed.

[Barry M Wheeler #2189]

Roger, if this thing doesn't actually start and run, a lot of us are going to be awfully disappointed...

(And a similar lot of us will not be surprised if it actually does! Sorry, I've run out of superlatives for your work.)

[Roger Zimmermann]

Barry, I'm afraid you will really be very disappointed! On the other side, it would be fun to have a running miniature 16 cylinder...Unfortunately, I'm not able to do that. And think at all the oil drips!

As explained, I cannot continue with the top of hood until the grille surround is ready and attached to the radiator. I began to work at the hood buck to shape the grille. During that process, I saw that the top needed some rework; not a lot but enough to make some more dust...
Then I cut a long piece of brass to go around that buck; it was silver soldered at the bottom. Then, the "large" hammer came in action to shape the front face of the part. The brass is rather thick (.4 mm), leaving some material to correct the imperfections.
The drawback from hammering: the surround got longer! I will have to cut it at the top to correct the shape. The filling neck must also be added; I don't know yet how I will do it, but I will find a solution.