1949 starter help needed

[limo Jason]

I have a 1949 Series 75 and I'm having some electrical issues with the starting system.  The car is still 6 volts.  In the past it was changed to use two 6 volt batteries with a series parallel switch so it would crank better.  It works well and I really have no desire to change it.  Every now and then when I would push the starter button the starter would just go "Click" and nothing else would happen.  Usually the next try it would start as normal.  Lately its been getting worse. I almost got stranded at a car show last weekend and today I had the same issue.  I think my neutral switch is ok. Am I having issues with the relay?  Is the starter going out?  what do you all think?  1949 is a one year only starter I believe so I would like to trouble shoot a but before I start throwing money at things that don't need replaced. Thanks   

[35-709]

First thing I would look at is the starter solenoid.  Your description sounds very much like a disassembly of the solenoid and cleaning of the contact disc is in order. 

[Jay Friedman]

Are you sure the batteries aren't getting old and weak?

[limo Jason]

Are you sure the batteries aren't getting old and weak?

Yes, Optima red tops, I just had them on the trickle charger to top them off.

[tcom2027]

Did you have yours custom built or did you have a Battery USA unit and get rid of the 6/12 it came with?

Since you hear a click the button is getting word to the solenoid it's time to go to work. I would begin at the batteries.  Assume nothing. Check all the connections, particularly the grounds. Then load test the batteries. Apply at least 150 amps for 10 seconds, New doesn't mean good, nor does fully charged. Either one could have an internal short.

If OK on to the starter solenoid, open it up and clean the contacts as has been suggested.. Disassembly is pretty intuitive as is assembly. Then on to the series parallel switch.  However they are robust units which were used in the 12/24v heavy truck and construction equipment applications for many years, so you may want to leave that part for last.

If the system passes all the above tests it's time for the starter. Remember, it's had 12 volts pumped through it for a while. THat said, it's not that hard on the starter as long it wasn't subjected to long crank times or cranking with partially discharged batteries which create huge amperage draws.

Starter could have a burnt commutator section or other internal problems requiring rebuild, or you might get lucky and  find a stuck brush or  a carboned up commutator.

My best guess if the batteries are good: Solenoid. but do the preliminary tests first, .

tony

                                                         





     
 

[limo Jason]

Did you have yours custom built or did you have a Battery USA unit and get rid of the 6/12 it came with?

Since you hear a click the button is getting word to the solenoid it's time to go to work. I would begin at the batteries.  Assume nothing. Check all the connections, particularly the grounds. Then load test the batteries. Apply at least 150 amps for 10 seconds, New doesn't mean good, nor does fully charged. Either one could have an internal short.

If OK on to the starter solenoid, open it up and clean the contacts as has been suggested.. Disassembly is pretty intuitive as is assembly. Then on to the series parallel switch.  However they are robust units which were used in the 12/24v heavy truck and construction equipment applications for many years, so you may want to leave that part for last.

If the system passes all the above tests it's time for the starter. Remember, it's had 12 volts pumped through it for a while. THat said, it's not that hard on the starter as long it wasn't subjected to long crank times or cranking with partially discharged batteries which create huge amperage draws.

Starter could have a burnt commutator section or other internal problems requiring rebuild, or you might get lucky and  find a stuck brush or  a carboned up commutator.

My best guess if the batteries are good: Solenoid. but do the preliminary tests first, .

tony

                                                         





     
 

Did you have yours custom built or did you have a Battery USA unit and get rid of the 6/12 it came with?

Since you hear a click the button is getting word to the solenoid it's time to go to work. I would begin at the batteries.  Assume nothing. Check all the connections, particularly the grounds. Then load test the batteries. Apply at least 150 amps for 10 seconds, New doesn't mean good, nor does fully charged. Either one could have an internal short.

If OK on to the starter solenoid, open it up and clean the contacts as has been suggested.. Disassembly is pretty intuitive as is assembly. Then on to the series parallel switch.  However they are robust units which were used in the 12/24v heavy truck and construction equipment applications for many years, so you may want to leave that part for last.

If the system passes all the above tests it's time for the starter. Remember, it's had 12 volts pumped through it for a while. THat said, it's not that hard on the starter as long it wasn't subjected to long crank times or cranking with partially discharged batteries which create huge amperage draws.

Starter could have a burnt commutator section or other internal problems requiring rebuild, or you might get lucky and  find a stuck brush or  a carboned up commutator.

My best guess if the batteries are good: Solenoid. but do the preliminary tests first, .

tony

                                                         





     
 

Thanks Tony, It's a custom set up. The previous long time owner had it installed in the late 90's. I just ordered a load tester so I'll start with that before pulling the starter and digging in to that solenoid.  I apricate your insight.

[Jay Friedman]

All good advice. In addition, maybe the series/parallel switch is wearing out.

[Caddy Chris UK]

Hi Jason,

Not adding anything new to the previous replies...  Only chipping in with something similar on my '51 Caddy (identical symptoms... note: may not mean identical cause).

Clicking noise from solenoid but motor not turning at all. 'Tapping' starter motor with a spanner (whilst an accomplice turned ignition key) worked once to get the starter motor turning and get us home, but didn't work thereafter.

For my case, the fix was cleaning the starter motor rotor commutator and replacing worn brushes (as already listed in above more detailed replies). Which was easy enough and pretty cheap (just a few dollars) for the replacement bushes. After doing that, the starter motor is 'positively aggressive'. The start is so much stronger now.

Good luck with your case. Fingers crossed it's one of the easier fixes for you... 

Kind Regards
Chris

[Brad Ipsen CLC #737]

Like you say this is a one year only starter but the parts in it are identical to many years of flathead starters so not difficult to repair.  The 49 nose is rotated differently than the flathead and the solenoid is also in a different orientation, but the internal parts are the same as many years of flathead parts.