correct primer

[T.L. (Ty) Stinson CLC #22330]

With Peruvian Grey paint, a medium dark grey having a red content, what is the correct primer color to use? Light grey, dark grey, or red primer to help bring out the red in the Peruvian paint?
Ty #22330

[Porter]

With Peruvian Grey paint, a medium dark grey having a red content, what is the correct primer color to use? Light grey, dark grey, or red primer to help bring out the red in the Peruvian paint?
Ty #22330

Ty,

You always want a primer to be lighter than the paint color, in this case light gray primer is perfect for a gray topcoat paint color.

When you say primer, what product are you talking about ?

I use a light gray epoxy primer on bare steel, if you allow enough time for it to cure it will sand well and accept any topcoat paint color.

For an autobody shop in a hurry they will shoot epoxy primer and two stage primer surfacer on top of that, it cures fast and sands easily. Always best to let you primer/surfacers cure and shrink for a week before a topcoat.

Two coats of BC can give marginal coverage, three is usually required.

Red primer is for red paint, black is for black, gray is for white,etc.

You would not believe how many coats of white would be required on top of red primer, for example.

They have tintable primer surfacers too.

Who is doing the paint work anyway ?

HTH,

Porter

[Lou CLC19028]

With Peruvian Grey paint, a medium dark grey having a red content, what is the correct primer color to use? Light grey, dark grey, or red primer to help bring out the red in the Peruvian paint?
Ty #22330

Hi Ty,

Primer color selection has nothing to do with color enhancement and everything to do with coverage. As Porter mentioned 3 to 4 coats of color should give you proper coverage(if applied correctly) but if someone tried to cover red primer with white paint you better have a 5 gallon pail of color! Paint(color)is very expensive. That is why color coordinated primers are available.  Under no circumstance should the primer play a role in color enhancement. A medium grey primer will be best suited for that color.

Happy painting,
Lou

[Jerry]

Auto Restorer Magazine had a good article a few years back about choosing the right primer to enhance your paint job.  It showed samples of the different shades that a paint would be based on the various shades of primers underneath.  I have tested this basis and found it to be true. I guess that you could pile on enough paint but the best way is to get the topcoat to cover with the least amount of product.  

Porter is correct you should base your primer to be in the same shade as your color coat.  Another suggestion is to ask your paint store to speak to their rep for specific products based on the brand of paint that you are using - PPG, Dupont, etc.  

Another reason to use a primer in the same shade as your topcoat is if you have a chip it wont be as obvious such as red primer underneath a white topcoat.

[T.L. (Ty) Stinson]

Many, many thanks for your responses regarding selecting a primer. Sorry for the delay but I was on vacation. My car is in grey acrylic primer so it appears that it is correct for the grey paint I have selected. I will need to start over because the primer is now several years old and although the car was stored in a dry barn the primer was not done professionaly for there are some scratches, etc. showing in the primer. Perhaps other coates between sanding will fill these in. By the way, should I use grey or gray. Ha, ha. Ty

[Porter]

Ty,

Take some lacquer thinner on a rag and rub a small lower inconspicous spot and see if the primer comes off, if so that is a lacquer based primer and not a good base for an expensive long lasting paint job.

Your topcoat is only as good as what is underneath it, I prefer epoxy on bare steel myself if the car requires stripping to bare, if the paint is in good shape that is an okay base for a repaint. New paint can be sprayed on top of good old paint, some guys like to shoot a coat of sealer first, cheap insurance for better adhesion, this is assuming no bodywork is required in the first place.

Is that primer on bare steel or on top of an existing paint ?

Porter

[T.L. (Ty) Stinson]

Hello Porter: When I purchased the car a year ago I was told that the car was primed in acrylic back in 1989. I wonder if I should start over from the bare metal. The car was saved long ago by painting it with tar and storing it in a dry barn for many years. the new owner removed the tar and sanded the top down to bare metal and found no rust. But, I notice several areas where the primer is not smooth and also I think fill has been applied to the bottom of two doors on one side because the natural curve is not exactly right, and behind the lower tail light near the bumper mount. so, until I take it down I guess I dont know what is there. Hate to take it off the frame because it has been re-upholstered. The top liner is excellent - an outstanding job. The seats and doors look good. Not outstanding but look very good. I wonder if they can be reinstalled (the roping and etc.)if everything is taken out. Most of this work may have to be done at home and save the painting for the pro. what do you think? Ty

[Porter]

Ty,

You dont have to remove the body of any car for a resto unless you need new floor pans welded in and want to put the body on a rotisserie, etc, for a total body off resto, big $$$.

All depends on how much $$$ you have or want to spend or what you want in the finished product.

If you want a quality long lasting refinish be very suspect of what is on the car, 1989 sounds like lacquer primer, not my cup of tea, no moisture resistance.

Scroll down to the 68 Brougham strip and repaint thread for a little more insight and check out Joe Abernathys website to get a feel for the overhead and expertise required for proper resto and refinishing.

http://www.abernathyrestoration.com/pages/1/index.htm TARGET=_blank>http://www.abernathyrestoration.com/pages/1/index.htm

Do your research and ask questions, learn what is involved to do the job right, only you know what you want in the finished product and can afford.

Nobody can advise you accordingly without seeing the car and your specifications as to what kind of finished product you want.

HTH,

Porter