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Testing or rebuilding Cadillac Windshield wiper pump

Started by Bill Balkie 24172, February 20, 2011, 01:58:04 PM

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Bill Balkie 24172

I have always had problems with my Windshield wipers / pump . Does any body have a clear diagram on how the bump actually works , Maybe a complete diagram of the vacuum wiper system ?

  Thanks ,
       Bill
Bill Balkie
1970 Coupe DeVille
2009 CTS

TJ Hopland

I presume you are asking about the system on the 57?
73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI, over 30 years of ownership and counting
Somewhat recently deceased daily drivers, 80 Eldo Diesel & 90 CDV
And other assorted stuff I keep buying for some reason

Bill Balkie 24172

Hello ,
  Yes  I am .. i found this diagram on the internet  . and it is a big help . This is where i am right now .   I have the pump and glass bottle out of the the car and on the work bench . I have a line hooked up to the Vacuum side and another hooked up to the water side .     When i draw Vacuum by sucking on the Vacuum line i do notice the water level does get lower in the bottle ,  ( filling up the pump )but eventually i suck water out of the Vacuum line . . Also i am not sure about the two small lines marked , control line and coulpler line ? I do have Four lines going to my washer unit , but would like to confirm exactly where they are supposed to go .    I posted a back in the summer that i would have a clowd of steam come thru my exhaust  every now and then when restarting my car after a long drive .  Now i am wondering if i was sucking water up thru my Vacuum hose connected to the washer bottle ?
Bill Balkie
1970 Coupe DeVille
2009 CTS

Bill Balkie 24172

  I  plugged the vacuum line at the washer pump . ... the wipers work fine , the variable speed work fine , they go to the park position when turned off .  They start right up again when turned on .    I think my problem is in the washer pump .   Has any body had any luck with the rebuild kit  they sell on ebay ?  Does any one repair these pumps ?I know it is a riveted assembly .   At this point i can live without out windshield washers for the time being .  But will have to fix it in the near future .

  Bill
Bill Balkie
1970 Coupe DeVille
2009 CTS

TJ Hopland

Without an exploded view of that vacuum contraption on the jar you would have to assume that there is some valving or perhaps a diaphragm that is no longer in its original flexible condition. 
73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI, over 30 years of ownership and counting
Somewhat recently deceased daily drivers, 80 Eldo Diesel & 90 CDV
And other assorted stuff I keep buying for some reason

David King (kz78hy)

Here is a link to a previous thread that is a must read for middle 50's Cadillac's wiper operation.

This was a great discussion regarding testing and repairing the vacuum system pertaining to wipers.

http://www.cadillaclasalleclub.org/forum/index.php/topic,108350.0.html

McVey's has rebuild kits and parts for washer items and Flicken (wiperman) can repair most motors.

David

David King
CLC 22014  (life)
1958 Eldorado Brougham 615
1959 Eldorado Brougham 56- sold
1960 Eldorado Brougham 83- sold
1998 Deville d'Elegance
1955 Eldorado #277
1964 Studebaker Commander
2012 Volt
CLCMRC benefactor 197

Director and Founder, Eldorado Brougham Chapter
Past President, Motor City Region

Rare Parts brand suspension parts Retailer via Keep'em Running Automotive

J. Gomez

Bill,

The washer unit is straight forward, the pump unit itself is inside the black canister top and bottom and there are just three parts, a large spring, a plastic cup with two rubber seals lower (water) and top (vacuum) and a plastic plunger with a small spring that seats inside the cup.

Once vacuum is apply to the top section of the canister the plastic cup moves up compressing the large spring. Once at the top the small spring on the plunger closes a rubber disc seal valve for the vacuum. There is a small amount of supply vacuum to keep the cup at this same position, the rubber seal has four tiny holes to maintain the flow.

This action fills the lower canister with the water from the bottom tube. Above this tube there is a two way valve at the bottom that closes the inlet while spraying it opens the outlet and opens the inlet to pull water from the bottle and closes the outlet.

Once you press the washer button inside the cab, the vacuum stops and the large forces the cup downwards, forcing the water out on the top tube.

Once you release the washer button the above action repeats again.

I rebuild two units and working on my third one. I’ve found the washer unit itself (on the lid) was fine, the two main problems were the cup seals water and vacuum and the rubber disc were bad. The rubber harden and not sealing properly vacuum side and for the water side.

Check the plastic cup has a good seal on top and bottom on yours first. If you get the rebuilt kit and you take the washer unit apart make sure you have a “clincher” to set the blind rivets.

Good luck..!
J. Gomez
CLC #23082

Bill Balkie 24172

Gomez ,
   Thanks for the response . I disassembled my unit this afternoom .The spring looked to be in good condition , the plastic support that houses the smaller spring on top ,looked ok as well . I think the seals could of been tighter . .. I reassembled the unit and was supprised , when i sucked on the vacuum port  i could see the water level in the glass jar going down and filling the chamber , but i was  also able to draw water  up the vacuum hose . ..      could this be the result of the worn seals ? Over the past summer    could i have been sucking water into my intake ?   For now i installed the unit back in the car with the vacuum  hose blocked off at the windshield pump unit .  .
Quote from: Jose Gomez CLC #23082 on February 20, 2011, 07:39:56 PM
Bill,

The washer unit is straight forward, the pump unit itself is inside the black canister top and bottom and there are just three parts, a large spring, a plastic cup with two rubber seals lower (water) and top (vacuum) and a plastic plunger with a small spring that seats inside the cup.

Once vacuum is apply to the top section of the canister the plastic cup moves up compressing the large spring. Once at the top the small spring on the plunger closes a rubber disc seal valve for the vacuum. There is a small amount of supply vacuum to keep the cup at this same position, the rubber seal has four tiny holes to maintain the flow.

This action fills the lower canister with the water from the bottom tube. Above this tube there is a two way valve at the bottom that closes the inlet while spraying it opens the outlet and opens the inlet to pull water from the bottle and closes the outlet.

Once you press the washer button inside the cab, the vacuum stops and the large forces the cup downwards, forcing the water out on the top tube.

Once you release the washer button the above action repeats again.

I rebuild two units and working on my third one. I’ve found the washer unit itself (on the lid) was fine, the two main problems were the cup seals water and vacuum and the rubber disc were bad. The rubber harden and not sealing properly vacuum side and for the water side.

Check the plastic cup has a good seal on top and bottom on yours first. If you get the rebuilt kit and you take the washer unit apart make sure you have a “clincher” to set the blind rivets.

Good luck..!

Bill Balkie
1970 Coupe DeVille
2009 CTS

J. Gomez

Bill,
It could well be..! There is a diagrapham (part of the gasket) inside the control line (washer unit water outlet) chamber and a rubber disk which close and open with the vacuum , it could be defective, or dirty allowing water to  get into the vacuum side.

Maybe time to get the tools from hibernation my friend..!  ;D

Good luck..!
J. Gomez
CLC #23082