1970 Eldorado axle replacement question

[Aaron Hudacky]

The right side axle damper in my car is shot, so I bought a replacement axle. The Cadillac shop manual makes the procedure sound simple enough, but it states new screws and lock washers must be used when replacing this axle. The six screws fasten the inboard CV joint to the output shaft from the transmission. The new axle did not include any new fasteners, and I can't find the fasteners listed on OPGI, Rock Auto, etc.

Can someone who has done this job tell me where to find the screws and lock washers? Although I generally follow the shop manual to the letter, is replacement of these fasteners something people have found unnecessary over time? I haven't removed them yet so I can't say how they look, but I don't want to disassmble the car and have it not be movable while I figure this problem out. Since it is part of the driveline I don't want to cut corners and create a safety risk by reusing the old fasteners unless others here have done so without any trouble. And advice will be greatly appreciated.

[Glen]

Aaron,

I have never found a source for the bolts except the dealer.  But I never bothered to replace the bolts. 

After 300,000 miles and several removal and installation cycles because of bad CV joint boots, the only problem I ever had was caused because I did not torque the bolts properly. 

The bolts are unusual because they have 12 point heads and you need to use a 7/16” 12 point socket. 

To get a wrench on these bolts remove the wheel and come from the outside with the 7/16” socket and a 28 inch long extension and ratchet.  You will be able to get to only one bolt at a time but you can put a long screwdriver into the fins of the brake rotor to turn the axle to the next bolt.  Then leave the screwdriver in the rotor next to the caliper to prevent the axle from turning while you remove or torque the bolts.   Both of the front wheels should be off the ground for this. 

This is the only way I have been able to get a proper torque on those bolts. 

[TJ Hopland]

I read that back when I did my first axle many years ago.  At that time I went to 5 or 6 dealers and cleaned out their remaining stock.  I then forgot where I put them so the last several times I have had one apart the old bolts have gone back in.  No problems yet.   

For some reason I have never had trouble getting the upper ball joint to pop loose on these cars, other cars yes but these always seem to come easy for me.   I usually jack the car up to get the wheel off then use another jack under the lower control arm to then put some weight back on the torsion bar and take the pressure off the upper arm so nothing goes flying when you pop things loose.     

Getting the axle nut off can be quite a project especially if there is rust involved.   Impact seems to be the only way and its got to be a dang good one if its a 1/2" drive, the $50 cheapos usually wont do it.   I broke lots of tools trying to do these before I got a good impact.   Adapters are not your friend with impacts so you are best off to have an actual axle nut socket.   Before I had the axle sockets that have the 1/2 drive I was using adapters and had one on my 75 that just would not come off.  Finally welded the adapter to the socket and that did the trick. 

Do a test fit of the axle nut on the new shaft, I have found that often times the threads are not in the best condition.  Once its in the hub its hard to do anything about it.  If you do a test fit you at least have more room to try and dress the threads or just take it back and try again. 

Check the boots on your new one to make sure they are not dried out just from sitting on the shelf.   I have had boots last less than one season. 

[Glen]

I have heard of problems with the axel nut on the later cars, but I’ve never had a problem with the ’67 â€" ’70 eldos.  The shop manual specifies a torque of 110 Foot-pounds for the ’70. 

What is the torque for the ’75 eldo?

[Aaron Hudacky]

Glen,

Thanks for the idea for the 28" extension. Ill do that today. I was trying with a little 7/16" 12 point closed end wrench, and nothing was happening. Sounds like reusing the bolts is very safe with the proper torque application.

TJ, the axle bolt was a challenge. I got it loose with a 1 1/2" socket with 3/8" drive, a foot and a half long breaker bar, a 5 foot piece of exhaust from my Subaru, and some PB Blaster. It took about 3 hours and I thought I would snap the breaker with as much as it was flexing, but eventually I heard that very loud but satisfying crack and the nut was loose. The bolt appeared clean and the end of the factory axle is still silver, so I never expected the nut to be frozen as tightly as it was. Before I install the new axle Ill be sure to check the threads, and depending on how things look for access, I will pop the ball joint or invest in a 28" ext.

I really appreciate the advice from both of you.

[TJ Hopland]

Unless the 70 is different than the 71+ cars you have to pop the upper ball joint to get the clearance to get the axle out.   Only way that would not have to happen is if when you get the inner side loose from the flange and it can drop or move far enough to get you the 3 or 4 more inches of clearance to get the splined end out of the hub.    I know on some of the chev trucks you can do it that way but I have never had an eldo with enough room for that.  I have never done a 70 - before so maybe its possible. 

[Aaron Hudacky]

TJ,

You are right about the difference between 67-70 and 71 and up regarding necessity to remove the upper ball joint for axle replacement. The 70 shop manual says the left ride requires disconnecting a ball joint to remove the axle, but the right side does not.

Tonight I finished installing the new axle. Although you can remove the right axle without having to pull the ball joint, it requires some manipulation to get the original axle out. Space is limited, especially since I was removing an axle with a damper. The new axle doesn't have the damper and that affords a little room which makes installation easier than removal.

The new axle liminated the clunk when putting the car in gear or accelerating.
Thanks for the help Glen and TJ.
 

[bcroe]

To get that big nut loose, put a breaker bar on it with a several foot extension.  Put it on the drivers side and back up a couple feet as the pipe hits the ground.  Do the other side moving forward a couple feet.  I have never replaced those torque plate bolts either, but I don't over torque them.  Bruce Roe