1959 Fleetwood Rear Ball Joint (Suspension)

[curly]

All, I determined today that the rear ball joint on my 59 Caddy is no good, in fact, it is very BAD. 

I cannot find one on line cheaper than $140, most run about $180 (part # 10450)
Does anyone know if there is an interchange  between this and other GM Ball Joints? I was told by a knowledgeable friend that possibly a Chevelle Upper ball joint would work.

Ideas?
Thanks
T. Lewis

[Grant Owen]

Try Rare Spares in CA they should have US made , do not buy Chinese that you see on ebay all the time.
You should note cars before Vin # 15749 used the same Rear Ball Joint as 57 - 58.

[David Greenburg]

I think you arereferring to Rare Parts in Stockton CA (800) 621-2005.  But Curly, how did you determine it was bad? I've always been suspicious of mine, but been told there was no good way to check it short of visible failure.

[Ken Perry]

Hi,a mid 70s Dodge 1/2 ton two wheel drive  upper ball joint fits the later one. That is what they sell you for $140.oo screewed in a plate that makes it fit the Cad.I have made plates and tacked them in worked well. I am attaching a picture of one.

[TonyZappone #2624]

I have heard of this " rear" balljoint.  Where is it?  What does it do?  I have a '58 built on about the last day of '58 production.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

This Joint is directly above the differential, and the "A" Arm pivots at the crossmember in front of the diff.   You have to get right under the car to see it.

And they do go bad, as they are attacked by dirt, grit and dust that circulates under the car as it drives along the road, and are never serviced, unlike the normal front suspension components.

When the joint wears, it changes the pinion angle, and the best way to check for wear is to support the body of the car via jackstands under the chassis, and then with a trolley jack, raise and lower the diff, observing the amount of play in the joint, and the bushings.

As you can see, mine was bad, but it wasn't such a difficult job to replace the joint.   And removing the arm to get to the joint was a lot easier than trying to do it in situ.

The way the rear suspension is designed, using this upper "A" Arm, there is no need for Panhard Bars, Watts Linkages, or twin upper control arms.

Bruce.

[David King (kz78hy)]

I am a Rare Parts reseller, so if you would like a quote, I can get you the part/s you need for just a little over my wholesale cost.
Provide the part number and I will be happy to quote it.

David

[curly]

I think you arereferring to Rare Parts in Stockton CA (800) 621-2005.  But Curly, how did you determine it was bad? I've always been suspicious of mine, but been told there was no good way to check it short of visible failure.

I've had a clunking sound from the rear for a while now, most noticeable when braking at low speed. I put car on a frame contact hoist and with the rear suspension at full droop, the driveshaft was contacting the frame where it exits the tunnel. In trying to rotate the pinion up with a tall jackstand, I could see the movement between the ball stud and the arm.

T Lewis

[David Greenburg]

Thanks.  I'll have a look next time its up on a lift. I have an "clunk" when slowly coming to a stop.  Thought it migh be u-joints, but they  check out ok.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Universal Joints will give off a sharp clicking sound when they are going out, and this noise is mostly heard on initial, acceleration.

When up on the hoist, the easiest way to check the Universal Joints is to grab the shaft and physically move it sideways or up and down.   That is, at 90 degrees to the cross.

Bruce.