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Fuel pump leaking?

Started by dst2680, April 04, 2015, 06:27:13 PM

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dst2680

My 75 coupe deville is leaking gasoline from what I am assuming is either the fuel pump or its rubber line located in the front lower part of the drivers side of the engine. The steel line looks fine. It's hard to tell if it's leaking from the pump itself or the rubber hose as the entire hose is wet. It only leaks while the car is running. Any guesses? The car runs fine currently, but the leak is pretty significant while it is running. If it is the pump, does anyone have suggestions on a good replacement? It is the 500ci engine, and the parts are likely original due to the low miles. Thanks!

chrisntam

My money is on the line leaking.  But it could be the fuel pump.  Run it for a very short time and shut it off.  Start from the top of the fuel pump and feel for fuel, working down towards the line.   Maybe get a flashlight so you can see better.  If it were me, I'd replace the rubber line first, only costs a few bucks, get worm gear clamps.  Be sure the engine is cold when you replace the line and make sure you have a drain pan under the pump when you pull the line off, fuel will drain out.  Once the line is replaced, start it to see if it leaks.  If it leaks, then the fuel pump.  Rock Auto on line or your local auto parts store to buy a pump.  If you do the  fuel pump, be sure to use a line wrench when disconnecting the metal fuel line.

chris.
1970 Deville Convertible 
Dallas, Texas

Smedly

those pumps generally have a small hole which the gas will come out of when the diaphragm inside lets go. and it usualy only comes out when the engine is running. My guess is the pump is no good.
When a Doctor "saves a Life" it does not necessarily mean that that life will ever be the same as it was, but he still saved it. My 46 may not be as it was but it is still alive.
Sheldon Hay

Scot Minesinger

If it is the original fuel pump (traces of blue paint), it is just a matter of time anyway, and it should be replaced at your convenience rather than later at a most difficult time.  I agree replace the rubber lines first to try and discover leak source then pump if that does not cure it (replace rubber hoses anyway front and rear if original).
Fairfax Station, VA  22039 (Washington DC Sub)
1970 Cadillac DeVille Convertible
1970 Cadillac Sedan DeVille
1970 four door Convertible w/Cadillac Warranty

Smedly

it should also be mentioned that if it is the diaphragm in the pump then the fuel will also start going into the bottom end.(mixed in the oil) I would not run anymore then necessary until you find the source of the leak
When a Doctor "saves a Life" it does not necessarily mean that that life will ever be the same as it was, but he still saved it. My 46 may not be as it was but it is still alive.
Sheldon Hay

TJ Hopland

If its not original I have seen it more and more lately where the 'nut' that holds the steel line is not very well attached to the body of the pump so if you are not extra careful when installing the steel line you can get a leak. 

Anyone ever cut open one of those pumps?   Is most of it just full of fuel?   I assume the diaphragm is up in the cast part like every other pump?   What was the reason for all that extra space?  I can sort of see making room for the filter but they appear to have had the big can before and after the filter. 
73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI, over 30 years of ownership and counting
Somewhat recently deceased daily drivers, 80 Eldo Diesel & 90 CDV
And other assorted stuff I keep buying for some reason

m-mman

The large 'can' is a reservoir. First it contains the (long style) filter, but also stores an amount of fuel.

A common problem for an A/C car with limited under hood airflow and a carburetor is vapor lock.
Get gas hot enough and it will 'boil' (turn from liquid into vapor) A carb fuel system can not handle vaporized fuel. It cant be pumped and it cant pass through the carb. A carb system runs around 7-10 psi

Fuel injection systems run high pressures in the fuel line (right up to the injector ports) and higher line pressure need higher tempt to boil/vaporize. FI systems run 20-50psi (varies with year and makes) Under hood temps dont get hot enough to vaporize fuel at this pressure.

In order to prevent boiling/vaporizing Cad ran a completely separate line BACK to the tank. Anytime pressure got over 10(?) psi it meant the the engine did not need the extra amount pumped and the valve opened and let a stream of fuel return to the tank. This return of fuel (and pick up of fresh fuel from the tank) provided a COOLING effect on the fuel pump.

However if the driver did open the throttle there had to be a small reservoir that could be drawn from to keep the carb filled, hence the can.
1929 341B Town Sedan
1971 Miller-Meteor Lifeliner ambulance
Other non-Cadillac cars
Near Los Angeles, California

CLC #29634

jaxops

Quote from: chrisntam on April 04, 2015, 06:55:09 PM
My money is on the line leaking.  But it could be the fuel pump.  Run it for a very short time and shut it off.  Start from the top of the fuel pump and feel for fuel, working down towards the line.   Maybe get a flashlight so you can see better.  If it were me, I'd replace the rubber line first, only costs a few bucks, get worm gear clamps.  Be sure the engine is cold when you replace the line and make sure you have a drain pan under the pump when you pull the line off, fuel will drain out.  Once the line is replaced, start it to see if it leaks.  If it leaks, then the fuel pump.  Rock Auto on line or your local auto parts store to buy a pump.  If you do the  fuel pump, be sure to use a line wrench when disconnecting the metal fuel line.
chris.
I would recommend Texas Johnny and get an alcohol resistant fuel pump replacement in the OEM styles.http://cowboyjohnsautoparts.com/antique-car-parts.html
1970 Buick Electra Convertible
1956 Cadillac Series 75 Limousine
1949 Cadillac Series 75 Imperial Limousine
1979 Lincoln Continental
AACA, Cadillac-LaSalle Club #24591, ASWOA