Convertible/Coupe Quarter Trim Removal

[Joe V]

As part of hydraulic restore I need to put new sweeps on all windows  of my 49.  I haved all screws removed that hold the quarter panel trim shown in picture, but it won't budge.

Thought I ask to see if there are any tips before I start applying pressure.

[49caddyman]

Joe:  I've encountered the same thing on many of the '48 and '49's I've restored (seven at last count).  Most likely the reason they won't budge is because on the assembly line, a substantial bead of sticky, black mastic was applied to the underside of each moulding.  After 66 years it's really stuck in place.  I recommend that you protect anything and everything that needs protection, then carefully pry on the inside edge of the moulding (where the window slides up & down), very patiently and gently, a little at a time, until the moulding starts to become "unstuck" from the body.
   Needless to say,  DOUBLE-CHECK to be certain that you have indeed removed ALL of the small self-tapping flathead phillips screws BEFORE doing this.  Sometimes it's easy to miss a screw, since when driven in, the felt sweeper strip material can often hide the screw head.  Let me know how you make out, OK?  Joe Cutler

[Joe V]

Thanks Joe.  Wow, seven 48/49 restorations. That probably means multiple hydroelectric rebuilds.  I think one is all I have in me.  Well, maybe one more if I can also get my hands on a 49 Series 75.

Removing the trim turned into quite the weekend project and it's funny that of all mastics that fail over 60+ years, this was still strong as can be.  I got them off without mangling the money side, but this project brought the sweat out.  Man, what a workout!

A couple questions.  As you would well know, the original sweeps are attached with heavy staples.  What did you use when replacing the sweep to fasten them to the trim?

Also, for reinstallation of the trim, is there a need for some kind of material to replace the mastic?  I'm guessing it was there for a reason.  Anti-rattle maybe???

[49caddyman]

Joe:  I'm happy to hear that you've been successful in removing the pesky mouldings, though it was a harrowing experience.  In the past, I've made my own "staples" using stainless steel mechanics wire.  I cut lengths of about 1" using diagonal side-cutting pliers.  I then grasp each 1" length of wire in needlenose pliers and bend both ends at 90 degrees to form a "staple".
   I lay the new sweeper strip against the moulding it will be attached to, and make small marks on the backside, using a 90 degree "pick", to indicate where to drill the holes for the staples.  I found that applying a piece of masking tape to the backside of the sweeper strip greatly aids in seeing the marks I've made w/the pick.  I then drill the holes on a drill press with a block of wood underneath the strip to support it.  Drill the holes using a 1/16" drill bit.  Remove the masking tape from the backside of the strip. Finally, I apply a thin coating of contact cement to the backside of the strip, and to the surface of the moulding where it will be installed.  Wait about 20 minutes for the contact cement to get "tacky", carefully press the new sweeper strip into location, slip the "staples" through the holes, and bend the ends at 90 degrees to secure them.
   I've never bothered to re-install any "mastic".  I surmise that the original purpose of the mastic was to cushion the moulding(s) to prevent squeaks, and also possibly as a seal against water creeping under the mouldings.  3-M sells a suitable mastic in a tube if you wish to apply a bead to each moulding prior to installing it.  Hope this helps!  Joe Cutler

[gary griffin]

I have been using small black pop rivets to attach the Fuzzies to the body.  I had to grind down the nose of a pop riveter to reach into the channel but the rivets are not seen after the job is done.
I learned this little trick from Harry Scott.

[59-in-pieces]

Joe V,
Joe C has explained the process very well, and obviously the finish look closely follows the OEM (industrial stapler) attachment method.
The only thing I would add is, I use a body dolly to provide a solid surface to hold the staple in place and a tack hammer and nail set to bend the ends of the SS staples over tightly - set'm and forget'm.
Perhaps the staple process is not as quick as pop rivets, yet the pop rivets - if they aren't tightly seated - may "pop" out of the hole and the fuzzy flops, with the sheet metal deflections from driving - don't ask me how I know that from my younger days.
Have fun,
Steve B.