News:

The changes to make the forums only allow posting by CLC members have been completed. If you are a CLC member and are unable to post, please send the webmaster your CLC number, forum username and the email in your forum profile for reinstatement to full posting and messaging privileges.

Main Menu

1959 Deville steering connecting link part needed

Started by Daryl Chesterman, January 27, 2019, 08:35:08 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Daryl Chesterman

I am in need of part # 18.1426, as shown on the master parts list.  It is a "tin" cup that goes around one end of a triangular spacer, as shown in the parts illustration below, and shown in the foreground of the picture.  I can not find it anywhere on the internet--the rebuild kits only contain the ball cups and springs.  Do any of you have one, that is in good condition, that you would be willing to sell?

Thank you!
Daryl Chesterman 

Glen

The number you have is not the part number, it is the group number.  The 1965 parts manual list that in group 6.883 and the part number is 265 516.  Two are used on each car.   
     
6.883 (18.1426) COVER, SPACER. STEERING CONNECTING LINK
1946 thu 1960.............. 265 516        2
Glen Houlton CLC #727 
CLCMRC benefactor #104

Daryl Chesterman

Hi Glen,

Thank you for the correction on the part number.  I was referencing the group number on the parts diagram, and misspoke myself.  If I can not locate one that is in good condition, I might just insert a thin shim washer.  I am uncertain as to the engineers' original intent for even needing this "cup" around one end of the two spacers.

Daryl Chesterman

1959Fleetwood

Hello Daryl,
I've rebuild quite a few of the 1959 centerlinks. What baffled me was that always at least 1 cup was broken or torn apart. They do not come in a rebuild kit and since i ran out on spares i just deleted them. Inserting a shim washer of the same thicknes can do the job. Tip: when assembling the centerlink make sure that the flat side of the triangular bar is toward the hole where you put in the grease fitting. If you put the high edge of that same triangular bar toward the hole of the grease fitting then the end of the grease fitting will lock the triangular bar. If that happen the springs inside the centerlink cannot be compressed and you will end with a wrong adjusted center link.
Matern Harmsel
CLC 15331
Matern Harmsel
CLC # 15331

1941 Cadillac series 6227D
1953 Cadillac series 6237
1959 Cadillac series 6029
1969 Chevrolet ElCamino

60eldo

#4
  Daryl, I have the same problem as you. Sloppy steering. So I bought a good used unit similar to everything thats in that black and white pic. I have another 59 cad here in my driveway thats complete. Unfortunatly its -25F here in Toronto so if you can hold off till spring I may be able to help you. I will have 2 complete units as spares. Isnt the part you need on the rare parts site?
Jon. Kluczynski

Daryl Chesterman

Thank you Matern, for the tip about the orientation of the triangular spacers in reference to the grease zerks!  I never thought about that.  I removed the zerks to allow clearance for removing everything for cleaning and inspecting, but I didn't think about the apex of the triangle spacers causing a clearance issue.

Thank you, Johnny, for your offer on your center link parts.  I will probably just put it together with a shim washer.  The rare parts website does show a complete center link for $500, and they also show an overhaul kit, but it does not have the cup(s) that I need, and it is also too pricey!!!  Spring will come very late for you!  Here in Washington State, on the east side, we will be planting our garden in early March.  So far (fingers crossed) we have had an exceptionally mild winter.  I feel sorry for all of you suffering the cold and snow that you are presently getting.  Thanks, again, for your offer, but I think I will pass--hope to be driving it before then!

Daryl Chesterman

60eldo

Daryl,now cause you posted this, Im starting to clean up my spare and see if I can rebuild it. Ive never done this,Oh well, lets see what Im getting myself into.
Jon. Kluczynski

Daryl Chesterman

Hi Johnny!

Be sure that you remove the grease zerks first thing, as they protrude inside the tube and inhibit sliding things out with a magnet.  Also be prepared for lots of grease!  What I would consider the wear items (the cups), were hardly worn at all--all reusable.  The only thing that looked bad was the one "tin" cup on one of the triangular spacers--it was worn through.  I hope yours are in good condition.  I would strongly recommend the use of a good moly grease for reassembly and for use on all of the other grease points on your caddy.

Daryl Chesterman

60eldo

#8
   So I cleaned everything yesterday and started working on pass side, unscrewed the plug and started taking stuff out all the way to that triangle thing. Lots of greese and greese looked fine ,almost like new black in color,then I tryed getting out the next part and it was stuck to something, wouldnt come out so I aborted the mission, ya I did not take out the greese fittings.. Looking at the pic here up posted looks like theres nothing to the left of the right tie rod but there must be.I may try again but it seems to me theres nothing wrong with mine, Im asking myself, why are you openning up this can of worms,,,,messy job and maybe when reassembling you ll screw something up. BTW, the 2 triangle bars have a slit in them and a round hole, why is that?
Jon. Kluczynski

Daryl Chesterman

Good day Johnny!

After you remove the triangular spacer, on either end of the center link, the next piece is the "tin" cup that I am in need of (the group 18.1426 shown above).  The zerks have to come out to make removal easier, and to not damage them as they are very thin metal (think soda-can-thin).  After this "tin" cup is one of the ball cups, then the tie rod ball, another ball cup, then a thick disc.  The disc butts up against indents in the tube, thus holding it in place.  The center of the tube has nothing in it.  Yes, it is a messy job, with all of the grease.  Fortunately, I have a solvent tank to aid in clean-up.  A bottle brush works very nicely for cleaning out the inside of the tube.

As to the triangular spacers:  Only conjecture, but, since I have a Mechanical Engineering background, I am going to say that the triangular spacers started out as a flat piece of steel that was formed into the triangular configuration by a machine, and the hole in the side is probably a locator hole to hold the flat sheet in position so that the machine could do the bending and get all of the angles the same.  This would explain the slit that you refer to.  Like I said earlier, I see no useful purpose, from an engineering standpoint, for the "tin" cups, since they are only on one end of the triangular spacers.  The "tin" cup does not even hold the triangular spacer centered in the tube, as the spacers are a sloppy fit inside the "tin" cups.

I hope you have heat where you are working!  Weather report shows you currently at 5* F, brrrrrrrrr!  I am working in a shop that is about 40*, and that is on the edge of being too cold for working with bare hands.

Good luck with your project!

Daryl Chesterman

David Greenburg

While you’ve got your steering apart, this would be a good time to check the pitman arm.  In case you were not aware, these cars were recalled in the late ‘70’s for potentially defective pitman arms.  If yours is stamped “1038” it is a good one.  Otherwise it should be replaced.  If you can’t find a “1038” arm, Rare Parts makes a replacement.  Most people who have been on here awhile  are probably tired of hearing me talk about this issue, but I’m happy to provide more information.
David Greenburg
'60 Eldorado Seville
'61 Fleetwood Sixty Special

60eldo

   Dave I have the pitman arm here in the kitchen, its marked 5672806,,please dont tell me its no good
Jon. Kluczynski

David Greenburg

Johnny-

That is the part number, and it is not dispositive of this issue.  The number you are looking for is separate from the part number and is often on the other side of the arm.  It is 4 digits, either “1035” or “1038.”  If  there is no number or 1035, it is the old arm and should be replaced.  If it’s 1038 it’s good (the number refers to the hardness of the steel).  If you’ve got a bad one,  you should deal with it, but the good news is that when they break, it happens in very high-stress, low speed situations, like parking.  It won’t just fail while cruising at speed (a low-stress situation).



David Greenburg
'60 Eldorado Seville
'61 Fleetwood Sixty Special

60eldo

Dave the only other # I can find is    R 112   
Jon. Kluczynski

David Greenburg

Johnny:

That is not the number you are looking for.  Here is the recall info.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/1978/RCRIT-78V135-9845.pdf

Also, I wrote an article in the Jan. 2005 S/S with background on this issue. I can get you a copy, but don’t have a link handy.  However, it should be easy to find; may even be on the Rare Parts site.




David Greenburg
'60 Eldorado Seville
'61 Fleetwood Sixty Special

fishnjim

Used from '46 to '60 so there should be a few around.   Don't just look for a '59.   Common issue for finding parts.   
Probably can get a whole link from a junk yard.   I reused everything as I cleaned and reworked mine, so why was it missing?   

I think the holes are for grease to flow through.