Cadillac blue engine paint

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

Oddly enough, this came up in my "Facebook memories" just now.
A year ago today I painted The Ark's engine with the Hirsch paint.

https://www.facebook.com/laurie.kraynick/videos/2150555531726251/

[Caddieman53]

Cadillac Engine Blue remained the same from the first year 1953 until Cadillac went with the Corporate Blue in '77 or so.  It is no longer available at your local parts store and hasn't been for a long time.  Bill Hirsch is the usual go-to place for it in quarts or rattle cans as Laurie noted.  The brush-on in quarts flows out very nicely or spray it as Dan suggested.
It has been said that Rustoleum Royal Blue mixed with Rustoleum Black can be mixed to come very close to the Cadillac Engine Blue but you don't get the high temp. qualities.
Please don't paint it corporate blue --- wayyy ugly on a pre-'77 engine, in my opinion.  Ford Dark Blue is kind of close but no cigar, it could be used I suppose.

   

I'm pretty sure that the Cadillac Engine Blue started in 1949 with the introduction of the 331 overhead valve V8.

[35-709]

   You are absolutely correct, why I said 1953 when even I know better I do not know.  A slip of the tongue, so to speak.  Thanks.
Geoff N.

[kkarrer]

Gentlemen,
   Orr-Lac 955 is a correct Cadillac Blue paint.  I just ordered another can of it from Terrill Machine in Terrill, Texas.  You can find them on-line.  I also use Bill Hirsch's Cadillac Blue.  The colors are the same and if correctly applied correctly (clean, bead blast, prime with self etching primer, and spray two coats)the both hold up very well.  The biggest difference is in the set up/drying time.  The Orr-Lac dries very quickly, so if you're trying to get those valve covers or the oil pan back on quickly that is always my choice.  If you have time to wait, the Hirsch paint will set up well in about a day depending upon temperature and humidity.  POR 15 also makes a Cadillac Blue paint (42088) and while I've used lots of their stuff I haven't tried the Cadillac Blue.  I'd be interested to know if anyone has as used their 42088 as their stuff really holds up to high temps and really locks down rust. Intake manifolds are where you really need something that will hold up to the heat.
Ken Karrer
CenTex CLC Reg. Dir.
1932 AWPhaeton
1963 Convertible

[Saturnin15]

I did mine with Por15 and it’s apply very well.  Also have a nice shine.  But it doesn’t hold on the centre of the intake manifold.

[abriddell]

I rebuilt my 72 Eldorado engine about 2 years ago and used KBS “motor coater” Cadillac blue. It turned out nicely and has held up well.

https://www.kbs-coatings.com/Motor-Coater.html

Andrew Briddell
McFarland, WI

[Cadman-iac]

Thank you all for your expertise and experience with this paint. It gives me a lot to think about.

I do have another question about the mixed paint.  It was mentioned that the sheet metal parts be primed before painting with the rattle can paint. Is it also recommended to prime these if you use the mixed paint?

And another question, do most of you paint your parts before you assemble the engine, or do you paint it after the assembly process?
I've done it both ways. Painting the pieces before assembly gives it a more professional look in my opinion,  as your gaskets then are not painted over. But masking off the mating surfaces leaves places where the gasket doesn't cover,  so you wind up with areas that are not painted and prone to rust over time then.

Another question is does anyone else use a blast cabinet to clean up their parts? I've been doing this for a while now, but the surfaces of the sheet metal parts become more grainy looking because of it, and the paint doesn't seem to hide this regardless of how many coats are applied to it.
But blasting seems to be the only way to remove the rust and paint effectively. I use a copper slag material in my blast cabinet and it's pretty good at taking off rust and paint. I had used walnut shell when I first got the cabinet, but it took forever to get anything done. I guess it is good for soft materials like aluminum or pot metal, but useless on cast iron and sheet metal.
Does anyone have a better choice of material for blasting parts clean? I like the copper slag because it does last a while before it needs to be replaced. It is hard on the window material though.
Thanks again for the help,

Rick

[Eric DeVirgilis CLC# 8621]

Gaskets would've been painted over originally but the decision whether "authentic" or "professional" finished look is up to the individual.

My experience that high temp engine primer will provide far better adhesion therefore will last far longer than when this step is not taken. Wasn't done originally which is why original engine paint always flecked off.

[Lexi]

Rick copper slag is great for removing stubborn rust and scale, and you get a lot of mileage out of it. It does "tattoo" the metal a bit though. Yes, it also eats window film especially in a table top blaster. A larger floor model is more forgiving. Better window angle and with more space, so you can deflect more of the media away from your viewing port and get more life out of your window covering. An exhaust recovery system should also help. You might want to try glass beads for a less aggressive choice of media, on those parts where a better painted finish is required. Clay/Lexi

[Cadman-iac]

Thanks Clay,

Yes, I try to deflect the blast away from the window. The original glass was damaged beyond use,  so I began using Lexan Plastic in layers. It takes 3 layers to equal the thickness of the original glass,  and this way I don't have to replace it all at one time. Just the inner piece. And the newest piece goes on the outside. 
My cabinet is 4 feet wide,  so I can get fairly large pieces in it. I did the wheels for my 56 in it. It sure beats doing it outside with a sandblaster.
  I haven't tried any other kinds of media material because I didn't know how well any other types would work. And if it doesn't last very long,  it's probably not worth it to switch.
  I do have a vacuum recovery system for it as well. That really helps to keep the thing somewhat clear so I can see what I am doing.

Rick

[Lexi]

Are you aware of the window film sheets of clear acrylic that are designed to adhere to the inside glass? These sheets take the punishment of the media blasting, thus saving your glass. They are a sacrificial component. When they wear out you peel them off and put a new one on. They fit on with double sided tape. "Horrible Fright" (Harbour Freight) may carry them. The glass beads will wear out faster than the copper slag you are using. Biggest problem with blasting cabinets is being able to see inside what you are doing. The lighting is usually not sufficient. Good you have a recovery system. Clay/Lexi

Edit: I have made my own sacrificial viewing window using rolls of clear (acrylic?) designed for use to cut to size to protect books without dust jackets. A library supply product. They also sell sheets of acrylic designed to wrap around dust jackets and these are cut to size. You may luck out and find a size that fits your cabinet's viewing window. Just buy some double sided tape and your good to go.

[Cadman-iac]

LOL!!
I like the new name there! No, unfortunately I didn't know about those, or I would have been using them.  Now too, unfortunately, I had tossed the old glass out when it was no longer useable. I bought the cabinet used, and didn't know much about it before hand. I would need to get a new glass for it now.  It's a Skatblast brand, which I think is a good one. I've had to order new gloves for it a couple of times, and a new pick-up tube,as it had a hole worn in it from the media where it makes a bend on the top.

Rick

PS: That might be a good option.  The Lexan sheet I buy is big enough to get 4 pieces out of it. But it costs me something like $30. for it if memory serves right. I remember thinking that each window was about 7 or 8 bucks apiece. The window size is 12 by 24  inches.

[Lexi]

Rick, see edit to my last post. Horrible Fright may also sell gloves and rings (and I know I can get them up here from a similar retailer). Skatblast...hmmm  I hope the Forum Administrator doesn't have a problem with that name! Clay/Lexi

[Cadman-iac]

Why would the name be a problem? Just curious about that.

[Lexi]

"Skat" is a term that has a few different meanings, one of which is "feces", though usually spelled differently. Also refers to the non-sensical gibberish spoken in some music forms, (remember The Scatman?). It also refers to a type of card game. Is this "scat" talk Cadillac related Rick??? LOL. Clay/Lexi

[Cadman-iac]

I hadn't really thought about the name before,  but I guess you can make reference to those meanings.
I mentioned it because I used the machine to clean up my Cadillac parts, so the answer is a big fat YES! LOL! 

[Lexi]

Rick here is the window film available up here from Princess Auto. Not sure about availability in the US. Perhaps PA will ship to you? Clay/Lexi

https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/10-pc-22-x-10-in-abrasive-blasting-cabinet-window-film/A-p8578759e

[Cadman-iac]

Hey Clay,
Does that stuff have the adhesive on each piece, or do you have to apply it yourself to each piece?
I like the idea. It would save me money in the long run.
Thanks for the suggestion.

Rick

[Lexi]

When I last purchased it, each piece had the adhesive already attached. You just peel off the protective layer prior to sticking it to the inside of your cabinet window. Clay/Lexi