1960 Universal Joint Type

[D. Mailan]

Hello All!

My Dad and I's 60 Cadillac Series 62 flat top recently started to make a grinding noise from the driveshaft. We believe it's the center support bearing that has gone bad. It seems that when we had the transmission rebuilt, the shim that goes in between the center support and the chassis wasn't installed. That caused the driveshaft angle to change, wearing out the center support bearing.

We are replacing it but we would also like to replace the three universal joints on the driveshaft. The one closest to the transmission has the four retainers on the outside. The one closest to the differential has two retainers inside and two retainers outside of the joint. We would like to purchase all three universal joints, but the one located directly behind the center bearing is not visible from the outside due to its location in the x frame. The shop manual does not give a clear indication of what type of retainers that joint has.

Does anyone know what type of universal joint is used in the center U joint? Does it have all four retainers outside or is it something else? Any recommendations with replacing them will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
Derick

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

I do know that the centre bearing replacement will require a special spanner.   When I did mine, I made my own out of a lump of 1/2" steel to replicate what was shown in the Shop Manual.

Rock Auto has a lot of choices for the universal joints.

Bruce.

[Roger Zimmermann]

There were two universal joint types used at the time: the Spicer with external locking springs and the other one type with internal locking spring. A look with Google will show you the difference. You may have to take the drive shaft out to be sure you have the same style in the middle than at the front.
I doubt that the missing shim could damage the bearing, but the rubber case holding it can go bad, creating some noise.

[D. Mailan]

Thank you for your replies,

I'll keep you posted on what happens

Thanks again,

Derick

[Caddyrag67]

I do know that the centre bearing replacement will require a special spanner.   When I did mine, I made my own out of a lump of 1/2" steel to replicate what was shown in the Shop Manual.

Rock Auto has a lot of choices for the universal joints.

Bruce.

you wouldnt happen to have the dimensions of the tool you made would love to cut one out on the waterjet

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

The square hole is 1/2" (to suit the normal socket wrenches)

The flats are 1 13/16" apart

The thickness of the tool is 5/8" (1/2" should do but I must have had the piece of 5/8" laying around)

Overall length is 4 1/4"

As a reference, the letters were stamped in with 5mm Stamps.

Bruce.

[Caddyrag67]

Just to make sure I understand its made to fit around a 1 13/16" nut, correct? basiclly a 1 13/16" crows foot

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Yes.

I made mine because I didn't have a Crows Foot spanner that large, and it was easier to make one.   When I made it, I just measured the nut, and cut to suit.

Never had the reason to ever use one up till that time, and never had to use one since, so this was one tool that I haven't had to waste money buying.

Bruce.

[Big Fins]

When you pull the shaft through the tunnel, if you have an extension magnate, run it around in the tunnel and the shim that you are missing just may still be in there. It's worth a shot because it's near impossible to see inside unless you have a bright light and a mirror on an extension rod.

[59-in-pieces]

Or, just don't be so dainty and stick your arm down the tunnel - from both ends - and feel around.
That's why they invented soap.

Have fun,
Steve B.

[Big Fins]

Leave it to Steve to come up with that one. 

[TomJudd]

Two cars,58 and 59. Pulled shaft to install new carrier brg. both cases the shims were there ,but loose and not in proper position. Probably very typical. Install shims and watch that vibration disappear ! In one case to get proper shaft angles had to remove shims at rear end lower control arms (at frame mt ) I  have a used good 58 carrier brg w mount for $100 4 sale

[D. Mailan]

Thank you all for your comments

We took the driveshaft out, had it professionally rebuilt, replaced the u joints and center support bearing.  I included a picture of the correct order of the u joint types and center bearing for those who need it too.

I have also included pictures of the center bearing. It's seems pretty clear that the bearing and rubber mold came undone and torn from the metal bracket causing the noise.

Drove the car around and it drives amazing.

Thanks again!
Derick

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

No wonder you were having strife.

Glad to see that it now drives beautifully.

Bruce.