Front strut rod bushing replacement

[Steve W]

I want to replace the front strut rod bushings on my 68 CdV, and I see that quite a few retailers are pushing the same looking "advanced design" or "improved design" kit that is offered by Moog. The problem is, the parts in the picture of the kit don't look anything like what's on my car currently, or what is pictured in various diagrams I've seen. Advice?

["Cadillac Kid" Greg Surfas 15364]

Steve,
They are different from the Original Equipment, but they work well. You need to pull the strut rod off to install both parts of the bushing, and then you need to verify the alignment.
Greg Surfas

[Steve W]

Steve,
They are different from the Original Equipment, but they work well. You need to pull the strut rod off to install both parts of the bushing, and then you need to verify the alignment.
Greg Surfas

I'd do the work replacing it myself but then I'd take it to a shop for an alignment.

[Steve W]

Steve,
They are different from the Original Equipment, but they work well. You need to pull the strut rod off to install both parts of the bushing, and then you need to verify the alignment.
Greg Surfas

Have you done this before Greg? Moog  site states "easy installation". I've not found many jobs on this car to be "easy".

["Cadillac Kid" Greg Surfas 15364]

Steve,
"Easy" is in the bloody knuckles of the beholder. If you have a lift access to the two bolts that hold the rear of the strut rod to the lower control arm is not a problem. The front nut on the strut rod is not a big deal and if you don't move the rear nut but just stack the bushing components back on the rod, re installation (do the rear bolts first) is just a matter of tweaking the control arm back into position if it has moved.
Yes I have done this several times without a lift and aside from getting greasy it, to me is no big deal.
Greg Surfas

[Steve W]

Steve,
"Easy" is in the bloody knuckles of the beholder. If you have a lift access to the two bolts that hold the rear of the strut rod to the lower control arm is not a problem. The front nut on the strut rod is not a big deal and if you don't move the rear nut but just stack the bushing components back on the rod, re installation (do the rear bolts first) is just a matter of tweaking the control arm back into position if it has moved.
Yes I have done this several times without a lift and aside from getting greasy it, to me is no big deal.
Greg Surfas

I can either jack the car up and use jack stands...but that would get the wheel off the ground...or use Rhino ramps...which will get it up in the air, but still keep the wheel planted. Does it matter if the wheel itself is on or off?

[Steve W]

What a royal PITA! Put the front of the car up on Rhino ramps to give me some room. Replaced the drivers side strut rod bushing because it was the one that was totally obliterated. (Oddly, the left side looked almost new, as if someone had replaced that one and just left the driver's side alone) Had to go buy a 1 1/8" super long box end wrench to get that nut off to start the job. Man, it was on TIGHT! Re-assembling was the tough part...getting the 3 holes lined up where the bar attaches to the lower control arm was the worst part. Putting that part that connects the lower control arm to the sway bar, that has 4 bushings and a spacer (I don't know what it's called), was the absolute hardest part. But I finally got that side done! Not fun. Maybe someday I'll do the passenger side. Maybe. Next, I'll take it to get the alignment done. 

[Jeff Rosansky CLC #28373]

Clean the threads on the old rod before you take the nut off. I was able to borrow a large socket, but it was a fight to undo it.
Jeff R.

["Cadillac Kid" Greg Surfas 15364]

I wouldn't imagine you would want something holding the suspension together and in place to be loose after all.
Greg Surfas