1960s 1960 CDV pulls left on braking

[gkhashem]

I had the same issue when I had my 1959 and never really eliminated it. The car will pull left on braking.

On the 1959 the left front wheel would not turn hardly at all when on a lift so I adjusted the adjuster and made it so it barely caught the pads to match the right side and it seemed to improve for a while and came back eventually.

On the 1959 I had all new  brake hoses and wheel cylinders. On examining the 1960 last week I could see all relatively new hoses and wheel cylinders.

I have not checked out the 1960 yet to see how the wheel spins on a lift but any other ideas as to what I could do?

[Cadillac Jack 82]

My understanding is with the 57-61 you have to bleed the brakes in a specific order otherwise they'll always pull.

[Michael Petti]

My 60 CDV pulled hard to the right and it turned out the "new" hose that was only a few years old collapsed internally. Another hose solved the problem. Good luck on this.

[Lexi]

I had the same issue when I had my 1959 and never really eliminated it. The car will pull left on braking.
... any other ideas as to what I could do?

George there are a lot of reasons that could account for it. One that is seldom discussed are hot spots on one of your drums. They are caused by previous overheating of the drum and the only potential solution is to turn them out, (which does not always work). As the metal is now harder in those locations turning becomes problematic. Swapping drums to the other side may help a little, but the solution is to locate another drum. Something to consider and I mentioned it as seems to be a seldom discussed topic. This can be an insidious problem. Clay/Lexi

[Daryl Chesterman]

Is there a possibility that the automatic adjuster on the right side is not working properly?  Possibly the adjuster itself is froze up and the automatic adjuster can't turn it?

Daryl Chesterman

[Roger Zimmermann]

Maybe doing a major brake adjustment could solve the problem.

[Chopper1942]

The points Dayrl and LEXI stated are very relevant. Pull off the front and rear drums and check for hot spots and cracks on braking surface of the drums, oil/fluid on the lining, excessive brake dust in the drums, and brake adjusters.

If everything is OK, Adjust the brakes and them have a helper lightly apply the brakes and see if each wheel is dragging about the same.

Another thing to check is the suspension bushings and ball joints on the left side. If they have play, this will cause the wheel to move back on braking and cause a pull to the left.

Also, if there are hot spots or cracks in the brake drums, I would replace them. A brake lathe will not remove the hot spots. The hot spots are very hard and it is necessary to grind out the hot spots with a die grinder and stone and then machine the brake drum. the problem is the hot spot will return. You will never have satisfactory brakes.

[gkhashem]

So if it is the brake drum, do you get lightly used ones or are there any new ones out there.

I would imagine any used ones will need to be machined and they might a hot spot too.

[Chopper1942]

There are new drums available. If you are looking for used, make sure the braking surface is good.  New inside diameter is 12.00". The maximum machine to diameter is 12.090" I don't know what they charge in your area to machine drums, but you may have to replace them after you paid to have them turned. Excessive wear, out-of-round, taper. You can get 4 new ones for $300-$350.

[Michael Petti]

I would switch drums side to side to see if they are the problem.  Front 60 drums are hard to find. I think has to do with the switch from ball bearings to roller bearings. I didn't find any new. Rears are all over the place.

[gkhashem]

I have been thinking, if there was a hot spot on a drum would the brakes have a pulsating feel to them?

[Cadman-iac]

I would switch drums side to side to see if they are the problem.  Front 60 drums are hard to find. I think has to do with the switch from ball bearings to roller bearings. I didn't find any new. Rears are all over the place.

 I may be mistaken, (but I was wrong), sorry, had to get a laugh in there somewhere, lol.
 But seriously, I could be wrong, but I think the drums are exactly the same front and rear, the only difference being that the front is typically sold as a unit with the hub because of how the drum and hub are held together.  That being with the swedged wheel studs.
 If you have the studs removed and take the drum off the hub, then you can install a new rear drum over a new set of studs, and the wheel will keep the drum locked in place. This has the advantage of being able to remove the drum to inspect the brakes instead of having to remove the hubs each time.
 As for the drums, you should be able to tell if the front and rear are the same design by laying both side by side and comparing the details. If the depth and diameter is all the same, I would replace your bad front drum with a new rear drum.
 You may want to employ a machine shop to remove the drum from the hub though. If not done correctly, you can damage the hub.

 Rick

[Chopper1942]

All the brake companies catalogs that I checked list the fronts and rears as the same.  The chances of finding rotors and drums made in the USA is virtually impossible. 

[gkhashem]

I have been looking at drums and have been a bit confused if the front and rear are the same.

Some websites say the fronts and rears are different in 1960 but from 1961 forward to 1970 they are the same (front and rear) as the rear ones in 1960.

Somes sites say they are the same. Anyone with experience want to chime in?

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

The drums are different.

Pictured are the rear and front drums from my old '60 CDV.   The rears were finned, and the fronts not.

Not sure if the fronts were supposed to have the anti-squeak spring wrapped around the outer edge, but there is position for that.

Bruce.

[Chopper1942]

Rock Auto lists several different brands with pictures of the drums They have the same part numbers for fronts and rear. The drums are finned. In the 60's Buick used finned drums front and rear. The purpose of the fins is to help dissipate the heat from the drums.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Yes, but the springs were used to control, or eliminate squealing brakes.

Looking at the Shop Manual, the specifications of the front and rear drums are the same, but looking at other '60's, the front drums do not have the radial fins.   just the grooves.

Bruce.

[gkhashem]

I think Bruce is correct again and confirms what conclusion I have come to.

Fronts are different than the rears. No fins on the front. The reason you see on Rock Auto and eBay that drums fits front and rear as the same is that starting in 1961 to 1970 they are the same, but not in 1960.

A bit of sloppy work on some websites.

[Jeff Rosansky CLC #28373]

One thing to check is your tires.
Our 55 pulled to the left all the time, but especially when braking. Out tires were old, but had never been used. The rubber was soft but they had flat spots. Replaced the tires and she is straight as an arrow now when driving or braking.
Jeff R

[gkhashem]

Will do, those will be replaced soon once the new Diamondback Auburn Deluxe tires arrive soon. I am hoping this week.

It's been almost 3 weeks since order date.