1950s What does my exhaust tell you? 1954

[Laspaz]

Bevan, have you tried adjusting the idle speed screw on the drivers side of the carburetor near the TV rod?

I had the exact same problem with my '54. After getting the idle in P/N smoothed out, once I dropped the transmission into Drive, the idle bogged down heavily and the engine almost cut off.

I didn't realize at the time that these old Carters WCFB's have a tiny air/idle screw which is hard to see located behind the linkage where I believe the TV rod is at, screwing in the screw increases the engine speed slightly, just enough to where when you drop the engine into D, the engine won't stall.

You might have to readjust the timing and idle/mixture screws again. I totally forgot about the other air/idle screw, but it does make a big difference when adjusted properly. Hopefully that'll help. 👍

That's the screw that I use to set the idle, it's definitely a pain in the ass to get to. I really appreciate you throwing ideas though as we both seem to have the same issue. I could try and up the idle more and see, but I still don't think the engine should drop several hundreds rpm going into gear, that's not normal is it?

[64\/54Cadillacking]

That's the screw that I use to set the idle, it's definitely a pain in the ass to get to. I really appreciate you throwing ideas though as we both seem to have the same issue. I could try and up the idle more and see, but I still don't think the engine should drop several hundreds rpm going into gear, that's not normal is it?

It is a pain to get to. Oh ok I didn't know you adjusted that screw.

No it's not normal for the engine to drop that much in RPM's. Actually, when you adjusted your timing and idle, did you make the adjustment when the transmission was in Drive or P/N?

Because you're supposed to make all adjustments Timing/Carb when the transmission is in Drive. This might be your problem.

So make sure that your idle in Drive is at least 500-600 RPM's.

[Laspaz]

It is a pain to get to. Ok I didn't know you adjusted that screw.

No it's not normal for the engine to drop that much in RPM's. Actually, when you adjusted your timing and idle, did you make the adjustment when the transmission was in Drive or P/N?

Because you're supposed to make all adjustments Timing/Carb when the transmission is in Drive. This might be your problem.

That would definitely be my issue then, I must have missed that in the manual. I will give that a crack in the morning and see if that is my issue. I'll report back. Thanks!

[PHIL WHYTE CLC 14192]

That would definitely be my issue then, I must have missed that in the manual. I will give that a crack in the morning and see if that is my issue. I'll report back. Thanks!

BUT be careful not to rev the engine when doing this as it is in drive! The revs do drop when you put it in drive.

[Laspaz]

Thanks guys, it drives now!

I started by setting the idle high enough so that the engine wouldn't die when placed in drive. That was just above 1500 rpm idle and the revs would drop 1100 rpm to around 400 in drive and it was still choking. I ended up bring the idle to 580 rpm, while in drive, with the handbrake on, with the vacuum advance blocked off and with dwell at 25. I then retimed to the "A" mark (might have been a few degrees past). But it was whatever was the smoothest and most vacuum, around 16".

Hopefully this now allows me to drive the car some and will make things run better over time. I really appreciate everyones input and help and I am beyond happy and relieved.

Now to work through all the other issues. what are people doing with their leaking rear main seals from Best Gasket? Just replace with a felpro? I don't like my chances of shimming it with paper.

[Laspaz]

Some photos from the test drive.

[Lexi]

Beautiful car! Clay/Lexi

[Lexi]

I believe so Clay. Our engines were designed for 100+ octane when new. Although the compression was lower compared to Cadillac engines of the 60's, they still required premium fuel and in those days, they had octane ratings of 105-106 as being the norm. So definitely, modern fuel has caused a disruption in how we are supposed to tune our engines.

I know some parts here in the U.S. depending on the state they have octane ratings of 93, but most place especially in commie California, it's only 91 which is way too low for our classics IMO.

105 - 106 octane? Wow. Think I remember 104, but it sure would be nice to find some of that 106 today. Clay/Lexi

[timer2]

I have the dwell on my '54 set at 31....manual says between 26 and 33 degrees.  T Irvin

[Lexi]

Back in the day I had a seasoned GM mechanic tell me that aside from exceptions to the rule, they would always adjust dwell to 30. So that number being about midway point. Clay/Lexi

[Laspaz]

I could certainly increase it. I had double checked with a feeler gauge and the manual said to go for feeler gauge over dwell meter.

[Julien Abrahams]

I did the same on my '54. First use the feeler gauge, then check with a dwell meter. I set my points to a slightly smaller gap, giving a dwell of 30 degrees. Mine now runs much better with new points, plugs and a repaired vaccum advance.

[Laspaz]

I did the same on my '54. First use the feeler gauge, then check with a dwell meter. I set my points to a slightly smaller gap, giving a dwell of 30 degrees. Mine now runs much better with new points, plugs and a repaired vaccum advance.

Thanks Julien, I did the same today and set the dwell to 30. It seemed to run great, will hopefully get out for a test drive tomorrow.

[64\/54Cadillacking]

105 - 106 octane? Wow. Think I remember 104, but it sure would be nice to find some of that 106 today. Clay/Lexi

Seriously it would! 😂

[64\/54Cadillacking]

Thanks guys, it drives now!

I started by setting the idle high enough so that the engine wouldn't die when placed in drive. That was just above 1500 rpm idle and the revs would drop 1100 rpm to around 400 in drive and it was still choking. I ended up bring the idle to 580 rpm, while in drive, with the handbrake on, with the vacuum advance blocked off and with dwell at 25. I then retimed to the "A" mark (might have been a few degrees past). But it was whatever was the smoothest and most vacuum, around 16".

Hopefully this now allows me to drive the car some and will make things run better over time. I really appreciate everyones input and help and I am beyond happy and relieved.

Now to work through all the other issues. what are people doing with their leaking rear main seals from Best Gasket? Just replace with a felpro? I don't like my chances of shimming it with paper.

That's great news Bevan! Congrats!

[Chopper1942]

About your smoke. If your coolant is a mixture of water and antifreeze, you will definately smell it in the exhaust if a headgasket is leaking. The smoke will have a sweet smell to it. White smoke without the odor is normally just water from the exhaust. The old rule of thumb is that for every gallon of fuel you burn, a gallon of water is produced. When the exhaust gets hot enough the water turns completely to vapor and the smoke disappears.

[David King (kz78hy)]

Now to work through all the other issues. what are people doing with their leaking rear main seals from Best Gasket? Just replace with a felpro? I don't like my chances of shimming it with paper.

In case you have not looked at my restoration thread, post 167 discuses the last thing I've done to my car which was another oil pan gasket replace and oil seal.  I bought 2 parts, FelPro and Best and used the FelPro which require cutting off the "wings" with a razor blade.  Link to thread here.  https://forums.cadillaclasalleclub.org/index.php?topic=162955.160

[Laspaz]

In case you have not looked at my restoration thread, post 167 discuses the last thing I've done to my car which was another oil pan gasket replace and oil seal.  I bought 2 parts, FelPro and Best and used the FelPro which require cutting off the "wings" with a razor blade.  Link to thread here.  https://forums.cadillaclasalleclub.org/index.php?topic=162955.160

Thanks David, I did see your info and it was also the same thing I found, that the seal didn't form a circle when put together. I hoped it was some sort of pre-load or something. Quite disappointing to have to try a third rear main seal now.