1960s 1966 coupe de ville starter problems

[Cadillac George]

Hi, I just purchased 1966 coupe de ville, with a 429 engine.  It sat for 20 years.  I got it running but the stater is a problem. It took 5-10 tries to get it to engage the flywheel when I first tried it.  I removed the starter, cleaned and lubed the Bendix drive and installed a new solenoid.  When I put it back, it worked great for the first several tries, then I decided to let the engine run to operating temperature and the starter would not engage the flywheel at all.  Tried about 10 times and finally removed the starter.  Took it to AutoZone and it tested ok. On the bench the Bendix gear moves forward and the motor spins up. Any suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks

[Dave Shepherd]

Check the cables from the battery, look for internal corrosion,  make sure you have good grounds on the block, some may look good but again internal corrosion can occur over extended storage, load test the battery, make sure it passes the voltage drop test.

[TJ Hopland]

What happens when it fails?  Just a clank or a clank and ringing grinding?

I'm not familiar with the layout on these, can you see or access where it engages to check the alignment and also the condition of the ring gear?

[Cadillac George]

Thanks for the reply. I replaced both the positive and negative ground cables before I installed the starter.  I looked at the ring gear in the area where the starter bolts on to the bell housing.  Didn't see any broken or worn teeth. 

Th3 oln6 5hing I can think of is after sitting for 20 years the Bendix drive is dirty or worn out.  Can't figure out why it worked perfectly when I reinstalled it and the would not engage the flywheel after it as warmed up.  I have it out of the car, so on Tuesday I will see if I can find a shop to rebuild it.
I did purchase a reconditioned starter from AutoZone but it did not have the two tapped holes on the starter body to accept the bracket and the support to the frame like the original starter had.  It only had the two bolt holes at the front of the starter.  I was concerned that the two fixtures were necessary, so I returned it. Can't find an online starter that is the same as the OEM starter.  Thanks for any ideas.

[James Landi]

George,

In all likelihood, you have a bad internal solenoid electrical connection. When the solenoid gear is engaged, it ALSO presses a ''washer-like'' disk against two high amperage bolt ends inside the solenoid casing. If you CAREFULLY open the device, you can file and clean those two connections and the ring disk, as they get seriously burned, OR slimply purchase a new solenoid.  You may have a much more rare circumstance-- a situation where the bolt holes into the bell housing are distorted, so that the starter's gear is miss aligned with the ring gear. A relatively easy test would have you attempt to move the starter after you've bolted it on to the bell housing. Hope this helps, James

[Chopper1942]

If when you try to start the engine and all you hear is the starter spin up or it engages and starts to turn the engine and then spins up, the starter drive had failed. This was quite common. When Autozone tested your starter, did the the solenoid pull the drive back like it would to engage the flywheel? If the starter spins OK and the drive pulls back, I would get a new Bendix drive, brushes, leather washer, end cover, and drive end bushing.

It is easy peasy to OH a Delco starter.

Remove the 2 screws that bolt the solenoid to the starter drive housing. Remove the screw from the front of the solenoid that is connected to the starter motor. Now take out the 2 screws that hold the starter together and separate the parts.

Clean the communtator where the brushed contact with crocus cloth. Drive out the drive end bushing and carefully tap in the new bushing.

The drive is held in place with a washer, snap ring and cupped retainer that goes over the snap ring. Just remove the washer, use a small punch to tap the retainer off the ring, and slightly spread the ring. Remove the drive, clean and lube the shaft with a very light coating of high melting point grease (like synthetic brake lube). install the drive, the retainer, slip the ring over the shaft and pinch it together in the groove. Now install the washer . take a couple of pairs of pliers and pinch the washer and retainer together until the retainer snaps over the ring.  Lube the drive end bushing and end frame bushing. Reassemble the starter. You have just rebuilt the OE starter which will be better than one you get at a store.

[Cadillac George]

Thanks to everyone who responded.  I'm going to take the starter to a shop in Oakland, CA and have it rebuilt.  Just felt this is my best option to get it repaired correctly!  I will let you know.  Thanks George

[V63]

A solonoid HEATSHEILD is a good idea, most often they are discarded. The solonoid is sensitive to heat moreover in close proximity to the exhaust manifold.

Did you purchase 2 ga or 4 ga cables? Best Always default to 2 ga. Suggesting to  fasten your battery negative lead directly to cleaned stater housing end armature bearing plate. Then another continuing to the frame and body.