Pre-war (up to 1942) Water pump lubrication

[Jim Miller]

Long story not short - A few years ago I purchased a rebuilt water pump for my '41. Neither the seller nor Flying Dutchman (who rebuilt it years ago for the seller) could tell if it was rebuilt using modern seals and bearings or original type. Put it in car in 2022 and last spring it made some slight noise and I had a bit of black junk in the tray under the shaft. So I put in some lubriplate water pump grease. No more leaking or odd noise. Question - if it were rebuilt with modern guts, will grease cause a problem?

[Lexi]

Not sure, but as you noticed "black junk" that had presumeably leaked out from the pump, my assumption is that it came from a seal that was beginning to deteriorate. Have seen this before on other machinery. My guess is that the seal is now compromised, with no telling how long it may last, only to leak again. Clay/Lexi

[Jim Miller]

I checked closer today and the shaft has some play, so I'm going to pull the pump. I have a spare that Terrill rebuilt in 22.

[Jon S]

Years ago you added water pump lubricant and anti rust to the radiator.

[tcom2027]

Agree that the seal has deteriorated resulting from long term storage.
 
 I only use water my old cars only adding soluble oil to the cooling systems. Controls rusting and is a lubricant. Downside is it turns the water cloudy white and anyone who looks in the radiator thinks you have a head gasket failing.

Also I like WAter Wetter in my water only systems. Helps reduce operating temps and has some lubricating qualities. Adding it to antifreeze reduces its effectiveness a little.

tony

[Jim Miller]

Years ago you added water pump lubricant and anti rust to the radiator.

Yes, but the '41 has a zerk fitting on the pump which takes water pump grease for the bearings. And you cannot use too much pressure or you'll blow out the seals. Some rebuilders use conventional bearings and seals and some use bearings that don't need lubrication.

[Whit Otis, 1188]

The key to lubricating your water pump is to remove the grease zerk, put it in a vise or other holding fixture and then remove the spring and check ball from the zerk.  This will prevent over pressurizing the seal chamber and causing premature seal failure, which is 95% of the reason for failure in the first place.  After you have lubed it and removed the grease gun, you will get a back pressure squirt of grease out of the zerk which tells you that your grease job was successful in relieving the pressure.  BTW, don't put the muscle to your grease gun.  As soon as you feel resistance on the pump handle stop greasing!
Whit Otis