1971 de Ville Questions from a newbie to the hobby

[Geoff Newcombe #4719]

Your ride should not be "stiff", take Johnnys suggestion and ride in another Caddy of about that vintage and see what it is like, although it too could have stiffer replacement shocks.  My 71 Sedan deVille with 40,000 miles rides soft and smooth.  

Bite the bullet and contact Rock Auto as Porter recommended earlier and order the Delco shocks for it.

[Jim S. CLC#21340]

What do you more experienced guys think of TJs idea of converting to dual exhausts?  Didnt Cadillac drop duals in 1961 because of corrosion problems?  My understanding is that dual exhaust systems dont get as hot as singles, and therefore are more prone to condensation and subsequent rust.

[Rusty Shepherd CLC 6397]

You bet.  If you dont believe thats true, just ask any owner of a 1961-1969 Lincoln.  Replacement of the mufflers and resonators was always an annual event although the prevalence of stainless steel components has reduced that somewhat.

[David Harrison]

   The ride height is definitely something to check.  I recently looked at a 72 Fleetwood that was sitting level on its new springs but about 2" too high.  The ride was far too harsh since the springs were too strong.
   As a rule of thumb, when you look at the car the crest on the rear hubcap should be about where the bottom of the skirt is.  A ruler is even better though.
   If the car has the level ride option then that may require checking.  Sometimes if the system went bad there was a tendency to use air shocks in the rear with a filler attachment for pumping them up.  If the shocks are overinflated then it may compensate for weak springs and adversely affect the ride.  I have seen this a lot on Eldorados where level ride was standard.
   Checking the shocks is definitely key, they may have been replaced with handling or heavy duty models from Delco but desinged for another application.  You may be able to find a part number on them to check.

[David #19063]

One thing I have notice is that for some reason many people replace the springs with heavy duty spring that really only should be used for towing applications or if you desire to really stiffen your ride for performance purposes.

Some people must believe that heavy duty springs/shocks must be  better than standard ones.

You may have heavy duty shocks and springs in your car.

[JIM CLC # 15000]

11-01-06
T.J. Every since you posted your first post, I have been thinking of the 1971 Cadillac 4 door hard-top that I had from mid71 untill mid 75. About the only trouble I had with the car was during the warrenty period and that was not much. After the warrenty run-out, the AC clutch bearing went bad. The local Cad. maintenance shop wanted $95.00 just for the bearing, plus the cost of labor. I figured I could replace the bearing, but, after looking the job over and applying the WAG for the cost of all the special tools required, it drawned on me that the big Chevrolet had the same AC in them. I called the local Chevrolet shop and they replaced the bearing and did the complete job for just a few dollars more then what CAD. wanted. The other problem I had was with the ARM REST Cracking. the only other problem I had was getting a CAMERA under the front seat and having to use a "HOT" wire to get the seat up again.
Good Luck, "Welcome"to the club,JIM  
P.S. The ride should be so smooth that you will have trouble staying awake. I think your Uncle had the shocks R&Red and didnt tell anyone, Change the shocks to a soft shock. for a better ride.

[Jim S. CLC#21340]

The magazine is "The Self Starter", which is the monthly publication of the Cadillac & LaSalle Club.  You should consider joining ($35.00 per year).  It would make a great stocking stuffer for Christmas.  It sounds like you are from a family of car nuts, so drop a hint.  Joining your local region as well will also give you a chance to meet some fellow old Caddie owners, who can be a real resource for you.

[TJ Simonson]

Thanks for the tips!  Im looking into the shock replacement.  Im pouring over the shop manual to see if I can tackle it myself.  Being a full time student with a part time income kind of forces me to try as much DIY as possible. Besides, I enjoy doing things myself as much as possible!  Our Mechanic told me today it was going to cost me around $1000 to fix the rear windows.  They only go about halfway down and slow to a stop. I was hoping theyd just need some lube since they worked fine up until the last few years when they started slowing down.  Over $400 of it was labor since its the coupe and Im sure getting to those windows is a bear! Thanks again to everyone for your help! Ill keep you posted on my progress!!!

TJ

[Bruce Reynolds # 18992]

Gday Teej,

Changing the Shockers is a breeze.

With the Manual in hand, and a couple of good quality spanners, Rings and Sockets, a small shifter ([adjustable spanner] to hold the top of the shaft whilst undoing the top nut), plus a jack and jack stands, we will make a mechanic out of you yet.   Dont buy cheap spanners, buy the best, and they will last you a lifetime, and they also will come with an Unconditional replacement Guarantee.   You will still be using them in 40 years time.

The bottom of the Front Shockers are held in  place by a single bolt, and the tops by a single nut.   It goes up through the coil spring and the car nust be lifted high enough to allow the shocker to be removed downward.

The Rear Shockers have a single nut at the bottom to undo, and two bolts at the top to undo.

NOTE.   Your Shockers may be the Load-Levelling type, and if so, you will have to either get those as replacements, or normals, but then you might find that the rear sags a bit as I dont think that the springs in a car fitted with Load-Levellers are as strong as basic ones.   If they are Load-levellers, then there will be a couple of air lines that will be attached to the top side of the upper section.

Plus, when jacking up the car, and replacing the rear shocle, jack up the car via the diff, and dont put the jack stands under the chassis as the diff, when fully dropped will be hanging on the shockers.   Undo then like that and the diff will fall further, and then it will be hard to get it back up.

As far as the windows go, as mentioned by others previously, I think it will be just a build-up of dried grease and the like that is slowing everything down.

If you can get at the rear quarter panel from the inside, but you might have to remove the rear seat base to gain access to the side panel, you might be able to free everything up with a bit of CRC spray for lubrication.

Have fun,

Bruce,
The Tassie Devil(le),
60 CDV

P.S.   Rear, amnd re-read the Manual.   But it will be the Fisher Body Manual that will have the most on the windows.

[JIM CLC # 15000]

-02-06
TJ , It was late when I posted last-night and I didnt take time to address your window problem. Spray some Silicon lube into the window channel. (where the edge of the glass fits into the channel) You will no doubt have to use window cleaner after you spray Silicon in the channel. (better then taking the interior panels off to get to the old lube). You may have to use the "straw" that comes with most spray cans of lube. Also, you maybe can get the straw in as far as the window gear assembly and clean that also. If you can, take a spray can of "White-Grease" and lube the gear assembly.
BTW Bruce is from Tasmania (sic) and he uses some ENGISH words, but no sweat, you will soon know what he is talking about.
HTH
Good Luck,JIM

[Rhino 21150]

Any decent speed shop can put a very nice sounding set of duals on for you. If you go that route, measure the existing pipe for the single and go DOWN a quarter inch in size for the duals. They will still lower back pressure, improve sound and run a bit hotter than otherwise.
My Dodge fifteen passenger van had duals made out of three 24" glass packs welded end to end (1.25") each side, plus a head pipe and side exhaust pipe assembled at a welding shop. They are still on the van eight years later, although it has only picked up 20,000 miles since I changed it.
Less than one hundred fifty dollars. I costs almost that much to fill the tank these days (on the van with 49 gallon tank).

[Rhino 21150]

Look again at the springs. If they appear to have the same level of dirt as the rest of the underside, they came with the car. If not, they may have been replaced. Whitney will sell you a pair of OEM springs for about $50 if you need them. As for air shocks, look at the shocks for very small hoses coming out of them. I have air shocks on my 1976 Delta and they inflate from a tire valve in the trunk. I pump them up when I tow. The Mothership can pull a whole lot more than the daily driver, the Cavvy Wagon. It has pulled the Cavvy! If you have them, leave them, just let some air out to soften the ride. I have over pumped mine without the trailer attached and sent the rear way up like a dragster! Looks evil for a measley 180hp.

[TJ Simonson]

Hi All!

Thanks Jim, and as always, thanks EVERYONE for their input and advice!

Heres the latest;

I havent tackled the window problem yet, although I think Ill give Jims suggestion a shot! I REALLY am dreading taking apart the rear interior!

I want to give it a tune up since its been a number of years.  My Uncle had it converted to an HEI set up, so doesnt that mean I dont have points anymore? Or do I?  Do I need special plugs or wires?

I replaced what was left of the trunk seal / gasket.  Half of it has been missing for years. I got the new one from Steele and it was a perfect fit!  Hopefully now I wont get quite so much exhaust coming back into the car!  (The section on the exhaust side was missing, of course. LOL Maybe now Ill concentrate better in classes!)

I also ordered the products from Leatherique I had read about on the board.  So far Ive only used the Prestineclean on the vinyl (original) top and it looks AWESOME!!!  Looks like brandee new!  When I have the time and ambition, I will do the leather etc. inside.  

Hope everyone is having a great weekend!

Take care all!

TJ

[JIM CLC # 15000]

11-11-06
TJ, To answer your questions, I would go with the same plugs and plugs-wires as your uncle used. Just be sure to tell the auto-parts man that they will be going into an engine that has HEI.
As a starter, the plugs are gap,ed to .045".
Good Luck,JIM