Blue smoke from the exhaust of a '62...

[Misfit]

They should be paying you to repair your car after a 10 mile ride on that road. It's almost as smooth as I-75 through DownTown Detroit, and that's as smooth as riding on the moon.

MisFit

[Ohio57-62Sedan]

I'm used to riding on pothole infested roads... we just dodge em here... that's why no one will drive next to eachother.. you might need both lanes..

[Misfit]

Here they ride right with each other like little sheeple. Afraid to be on their own.

I don't like anybody near me. They haven't a clue as to the capabilities of that $100K Mercedes they're driving. That's why you see them wrecked all the time.

MisFit

[Otto Skorzeny]

I call them "clump drivers." They drive around in little clumps with space all around in front and behind.

In Atlanta, they repair potholes and road work with steel plates. In some areas you'll have a couple hundred feet of steel plating in your lane that offers no traction or friction to stop. Sometimes the plates move and cars fall in the holes.

[Misfit]

Redneck Road Repair !!!   

MisFit

[Porter]

Edward,

Let us know how you make out with your 62 390.

Have to agree with Misfit here, you are pushing the MMO right out the exhaust, but likely your piston rings are clean now.

By all means dump that crankcase " cocktail  " and might want to consider using Mobil 1 or Valvoline synthetic oil, try 10W-40.

I tried the synthetic last year for the first time in my SBC daily driver with 160K mileage, lower oil consumption and it stays cleaner.

Hardly worth the expense of an engine rebuild if you are only burning a qt. every 500 - 1,000 miles. The Northstar engines would use a qt. every 1.5K.

Misfit can vouch for the synthetic oil, I'm a convert now myself. Has the same SM API spec. as the standard oil too, can mix and match without worry if need be.

Porter

[STDog]

I won't use an SM spec oil in any engine with flat tappets (ie not roller lifters/cam followers).

Prefer CI4 spec 15-40 oils in my older engines (70 CDV and '68 GMC). Getting harder to find on the shelves though.
I'll run a CJ4 oil before I run a SM, energy conserving oil (ie one with the for gasoline engines sunburst).


M. Jones, MMO is Marvel Mystery Oil. http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/index.php/site/wheretobuy/
The site says Canadian Tire no longer stocks it, but TruServ Canada does.

Basically a high detergent and solvent mix. Good for cleaning internals parts.
Been around since 1923, so it's doing something right.

[Guidematic]

I've never seen it here. Not at any Canadian Tire I have been to. There are no TruServ's in our area, not even sure what TuServ is.

Mike

[35-709]

I buy my MMO at Wal-Mart.  Back in the radial engine airliner days the airlines used to buy it in 50 gallon drums for use in their engines.  It was never FAA approved (CAA back then) but the Feds knew it was being used and turned a blind eye.  Excellent for preventing sticking valves and I use it in my Lycoming aircraft engine fuel at all times.   

[STDog]

http://www.truserv.ca/pls/truserv_pub/truserv.app


So True Value hardware, V&S, or Country Depot.
Ask for this stock number  0414200.

[Guidematic]

I have heard about the stuff. I know it's been available for a very long time, but have never seen it here. Ever. However, there is a big red flag that waves everytime I see any oil additive. I tend to stay clear from them unless I know more about them. And the l;abel on the can is not enough to convince me.

When Slick 50 and all those other "miracle" additives became popular, I stayed clear. Then I find out what is in them and they do absolutely nothing for your engine. In some cases can actually harm them. MMO fits in the same category for me. Anything with "mystery" in the name is something to stay clear of. At least for my thinking.

The only additive that I have ever actually seen work, is GM's EOS. That's the only one I use.

Saturday I changed the oil on my '70 Fleetwood. I used 15W40 oil with the SL/CJ rating, and a can of EOS. I installed a NAPA Gold oil filter. This is the combo that works for me, and has for almost 30 years. I have used 15W40 in all my cars and have never had any engine issues whatsoever in the time. The brand of oil has changed over the years, as has my preferance from AC/Delco filters to the NAPA, which is made by Wix.

This engine has 120,000 miles, and uses no oil. It is church mouse quiet. The oil is so clean that I have to view the level on the dipstick via refraction of light.

Mike

[STDog]

MMO fits in the same category for me. Anything with "mystery" in the name is something to stay clear of. At least for my thinking.

MMO is in a different category. I can see the name throwing you, but it a historic name and won't be changed.
Probably the same as Sea Foam, just an older product.

Look at WD-40. Another historic name, "Water Displacement try number 40"
And do you really know what's in the STP treatments (STP = Scientifically Treated Petroleum)?

MMO is great for cleaning carburetors and internal engine parts.
A bit in the fuel to clean the carb and intake.
A quart in the oil before a change to flush the engine a bit.

This page has some useful info.
http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/index.php/site/about/

MSDS shows noting to be concerned with.
http://www.turtlewax.com/res/msds/MM010-4.pdf

[grinch]

I would have NEVER put that stuff in my car if I hadn't seen (rather heard) it with my own eyes.  I had a friend who had a '70 Impala that didn't get driven much.  We pulled it out of the garage planning to rebuild the engine (402 ?).  When we pulled it out, one lifter seemed like it was collapsed, from the noises I was hearing.  We drove it up and down the street, nothing.  He dumped some MMO - IN THE CARB-, of all places, and he drove off down the street, foggin' fer skeeters.  He came back and it was that church mouse that Mike talked about.  I could not believe what I was hearing.  Since then, when I have a car that has been sitting, I'll occasionally dump some in.  I have never, however, had the same results.  Still, that one time turned me from skeptic to user. 

[Mike Josephic CLC #3877]

Marvel Mystery Oil Comment.....................

This is a product, that when properly used, is a "good" additive.  Yes, there
are some that cen be worthwhile.

The reason why Marvel Mystery Oil works so well is that it contains the following:
Stoddard's Solvent (about 70%) and Mineral Spirits (about 25%).  You have to know
how to decipher the MSDS and CAS numbers to find out.  No mystery now.

Stoddart's was used as a dry cleaning solvent, Mineral Spirits as a paint thinner
for alkyd paints.

Together they make a potent cleaning combination.  I always keep a gallon around for
the occassional sticking valve problem or other issue.  I've used it for 40+ years.

As a previous poster said, it's been around since 1923 so it must be doing something
right!!

Mike

[Guidematic]

OK, so I get it. It should be used only as a flush or a cleaner. In the event there is a problem there. Not to add to the oil as a matter of coarse. Since I do not have any problems with the engine in my cars, there is no need for it.

I can see it having been used back in the days when oil was not as good as it is today, when sludge build up was common. So, is there a use for it today in well maintained engines? Or using it will create further problems?

Mike

[STDog]

Some still use it as a preventative, but I don't and probably wouldn't.

I do think using a quart every other or every 3rd oil change for 50-100 miles, would be good to prevent problems.
ATF would work just as well I think.
That's  on a new, well maintained engine (or one you rebuilt and know the history on)

And some in the fuel regularly will help keep the fuel tract clean. No lead to worry about now, but still issues of gum and varnish on a infrequently use vehicle.
Alternatives exist that work as well, if MMO isn't readily available.

Sea Foam products seam to work well too, and are a good alternative.

I used Sea Foam on the top end of the GMC, and AFT in the crankcase.

[Guidematic]

You should not use solvents in your oil. Not as a regular maintenance item, even for 50 miles.

Maybe as a flush when there is a problem such as sludging or sticky valves or lifters. But never place a load on the engine. leave the engine on a faster idle for about 1/2 hour. That's it. Solvents destroy the oil's ability to lubricate properly and can lead to further damage if any load is placed on bearings.

I especially am concerned with the cam/lifter interface. We all speak loudly on the loss of ZDDP in oils, then use this stuff that can wipe out a cam in short order, particularly in high compression engines.

Mike

[STDog]

It has been used as a regular additive by many for decades. Including replacing 1 quart of the normal oil with it on every oil fill.
So 100k miles + running 4 qt motor oil and 1qt MMO at all times.

I think it's unnecessary, but it has been used that way without issure for a long time.
I cannot be damaging to the engine or it would not still be done.

You can see here, http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/index.php/site/mmo/,
that they recommend one quart with every oil fill, and 4oz/10gal at every refueling.

And they have for decades.

[Guidematic]

I'm sorry but that just goes against my grain. Putting solvents in your oil that would thin it down just does not make any sense to me. Decades ago, maybe there was a use for it, but a good engine running on today's oil should not need any magic potion. I just can't see how this product can actually be good for your engine in the long run.

Of coarse they will tell you this and that on their website, which just smacks of salesmanship.

Would you pour a quart of varsol into your engine every oil change?

Mike

[STDog]

I've seen a used oil analysis by Blackstone Labs, from 4qt 5W30 oil  and 1qt MMO after 4000 miles, and the viscosity was still within specs for a 5w30, so it does not thin the oil much. It's basically a 5W oil with some extra additives.

Other info says it's drop a 20W50 one grade, so the higher the viscosity oils will see some thinning, but low viscosity oils will see little to no thinning.


Just saying that after decades of us without issues, I cannot see a blanket write off.

As to the effectiveness or need in modern engines I agree it's less effective, and probably won't show much improvement.
But it's not going to harm anything either.


Now, I'm reminded that I need to change the oil in the CDV. It at least a year old though less than 1000 miles)