My 57 Fleetwood restorations photos with questions.

[57flw]

Thanks Paul,
A very kind member from this Forum sent me one along with a couple of grille pieces and at no cost to me.
How good was that?

There is some nice people in this world and it is great to see that some of them frequent this site.

Thanks for your help.
Ken

[57flw]

Have just installed the trunk opener/closer and have a slight problem.

When I operate the switch in the glove box, the solenoid in the trunk works, the trunk light on the dash illuminates and the trunk motor does it's thing. All good so far.

The trunk opens enough to lift the lid however there is a clicking noise and this continues until I manually lift the trunk lid.

When I lower the trunk lid onto the striker, the motor drags the lid down into the closed position as it should.

There does not appear to be very much adjustment possible.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Regards
Ken

[Glen]

I don’t remember all the details of this system, but my thought is that the switch that activates the pull down cycle is too high.  What is happening is that when the lid is released it pops up a little and the pull down unit drives to the open position as it should, but as it reaches a point near the full up position it hits the latch on the lid and starts the down cycle.  The lid does not follow it down so the switch is released and the unit goes back to the up cycle. This continues until the lid is moved up out of range of the up cycle. 

I don’t think the down switch should operate until the latch on the lid is down far enough to clamp on the lower section. 

HTH

[Walter Youshock]

I had the same issue with mine.  I finally readjusted the torque rods so that, when you pushed the button and the lid released, it had a little more spring to open it that initial inch.  Doing this also lessens the possibility of damaging the motor as you'll have to use a bit more pressure to close the lid.  It won't slam down on the mechanism.

The other thing was the new gasket.  If you don't want to try adjusting the rods, wipe the trunk gasket with silicone and see if that helps.

[57flw]

Bit more of an update in relation to what I have been up to with the car.

Replaced all the door glass Photo 0879.
Fitted the rear door windows and door handles. Photo 0778 and 0788.

Naturally I stripped all the electric motors before installing them. They only needed a bit of a clean up of the commutator. Even the brushes were in great shape. I do not believe the motors have been stripped down before.

When I tested the windows after installing them everything worked as it should. Great news.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Ken, I'm not sure of the procedure with your model, but usually, the exterior mouldings and beltline weatherstrips are installed before the side windows.

[57flw]

After all the hours I had spent polishing things there was still a lot more to go.
There is a stainless steel trim panel fitted to the rear doors that match up with the large trim covering the rear wheel arch. I believe a one year only thing. (again).

Photo 712 shows what it looked like to start with.
The only way to clean them up properly was to strip them first. Photo 722.
This meant grinding all the rivets off. Photo 0022.

More to follow.

[57flw]

Then there was a lot more polishing. Photo 736.

I then drilled and tapped each of the individual spears to aid in reassembly. Photo 0024.

Photo 0045 shows the panel at the beginning and the end.

Roger, I did see your question as I was still typing. I am not real quick.
All I can say is " Oh I hope not".
I did not remove the mouldings or the weather strips. They were already out before I got the car. I did take the windows out, that is why I have put them back in first.
All I can say is time will tell. If I have to remove something I have just installed imagine how much experience I am getting.
At least I have having fun.

Ken

[Walter Youshock]

Sorry, Ken, but the moldings go on a LOT easier without the windows in the car.

You can loosen the mechanisms enough so they drop down in the doors and you can get the moldings on.  You'll have to readjust the windows when you're done.

[57flw]

Walter and Roger,

Oh what joy. Install something and then take it off.

I Love This Car.

These things are sent to try us, that's for sure.

Ken

[57flw]

Windows In then Windows Out. Oh what fun this is.

Roger and Walter were correct again but that is no surprise. It is great to see the knowledge that is available to us mere mortals on this site.

I had to remove the windows completely to enable me to fit the top door moulding. I tried to lower the window frame after disconnecting the window lift assembly but this still did not give me enough room to fit the three screws.
Any way another job is done. It is getting closer to the end although still a ways to go. Photo 243.

I also finally worked out the correct wiring to get the fog lights to work. The purple wire was hiding from me. Photo 230.
The light switch works and the fog lights show power at both ends of the wire when I twist the plastic part as seen in photo 233.
I would imagine I am missing a small part. Perhaps a chrome circle/lever thing with a flat spot on it.
Can someone show me a photo.

Ken

[Roger Zimmermann]

Yes Ken, you are missing the small lever to operate the fog lamps. The sole picture I have is attached, you can see the lever, however, not so well.

[57flw]

Thanks Roger,

I do not appear to have the missing lever.
Can anyone help out here a provide one.

Ken

[57flw]

A while ago I sent my Carter Carby off to Daytona Parts Company for an overhaul.

If it performs half as good as it looks I am on a winner.

It will be a shame to have to cover it up with the air cleaner.

Ken

[Roger Zimmermann]

During the winter, I sent both carbs from my Brougham to the same company. As it was too cold to run the engine, I'm just wondering how they will perform; the answer in the next 3 wekks!

[57flw]

Only time will tell Steven. Hopefully all will be good.
Thanks for the warning. I will keep an eye on it.

Good luck with yours Roger.
We are lucky we do not have to wait for any particular time of the year to start the engine. Where I live I can wear shorts all year round.

Ken

[57flw]

I have been a bit slack putting an update on here but I will get to it shortly.

Can someone explain how the front number plate bumper thing mounts to the front bumper. As you can see I am using very technical terms.
Once again I did not take it off.
Is there a mounting bracket or something missing?

Ken

[57flw]

Here is a few more photo's for those that have been watching my work.

Photo 0188. Been putting  a few extra bits in the engine bay.

Photo 0198. Found a few spots to put some vacuum hoses with a bit of help from members on this web site.

Photo 0218. This is one heavy front bumper. It needed me, my wife and one of my sons and the help of a trolley jack to get it in to place.

I reckon the front end is looking great.

I had a bit of trouble getting the top of the dash in place due to the fact I have fitted factory air conditioning. There is a long duct system that mounts under the dash top and does not allow the two pieces to marry together with the lower part of the dash in place. It all sounds a bit strange but anyway I removed the lower dash and will join the two pieces together at the same time as replacing the new vinyl top on the dash pad.
Not much extra work really. Just disconnected the 37 wires that I took hours to put in place before. No big deal.

It is all fun- I THINK!

Ken

[chris cunliffe]

The plate surround is bolted directly to bumper using  4 spire or j nuts which slot over the elongated holes on surround ,assuming the 4 internal brackets are still in place, and bolted using 5/16 unc bolts

[57flw]

Chris, Many thanks for the photo of the J nuts.

Bracket is now mounted but there is still yet another problem.
Photo 0251 shows bracket mounted.
Photo 0248 shows surround with number plate in place.
Photo 0255 shows the plate size of 12"x6" with the mounting holes circled in red.

The front plate will not get any where near the mounting holes in the bumper.
I purchased what our Registration Dept calls American Sized Plates.

My questions are.
Are my plates the correct American size?
Is the mounting holes in the correct place or do I have to drill more?

Ken