Ty's V-12 rebuild is completed and is SOLD 4/1/2021

[Stinson]

Remaining for today

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Great work Ty,

One thing about a reason to complete a task really get's one motivated.   And that is you get to have a spare room on the 25th.

Bruce.

[John Tozer #7946]

Ty,

I have your bumper over-riders and the centre badge plate is at the foundry for casting.

All these cars (the three I have dismantled and yours) all rusted in the same places:

-    the bottoms of the doors;
-    the rear wheel wells at or above the floors;
-    at the top of the rear wheel well where it meets the side of the car;
-    the trunk floor.

I think it goes something like this:

-    car is left out and rubbers around rear window and rear quarters perish and split;
-    water gets in through perished rubber and collects on top of the rear wheel well (helped by all the timber framing there);
-    water eventually finds its way to the lowest point - the trunk floor on one side of the "hump" in the floor and at the base of the 'C' pillar where it meets the floor on the other side.

How is the front of your rear wheel well where it meets the floor? I am not looking forward to fabricating the rotten bits there.

You are doing great and remember - there is only one thing between the car now and being ready for that wedding - more money! Be nice if you added up afterwards which cost more - the wedding or the car. One wit in my office says the best way to add expense to anything is to put the word "wedding" in front of it - "wedding" cake, "wedding" photos etc. etc.

Keep it up,

Regards,



John Tozer
#7946

[Stinson]

Hello John, Great to hear from you! Hope and I just returned from three weeks (well, 17 days anyway) in Hawaii last Thursday, and I went back to work Monday for the next three or four months to help pay for the wedding. Trying to finishes the car in time too. Told the restorer to just make it a 20-footer paint job to cut costs. He refused, after all the money spent on the engine, and suggested we cut back on the quality of the paint rather than the finish.
I will need only one perfect bumper over-rider now, but two of those pumper badge plates. Also, searching for two of the larger emblems for those plates (they are larger than those used on the hubcaps.
You are right about those rust prone areas. As you can see work is being done there now.
Many thanks,
Ty Stinson
CLC22330

[Stinson]

Okay, it is time to decide on paint. What do you think about the attached?

[Jeff Wilk]

LOVE the blue with some yellow.  What program are you using to do this trial and error on without actually painting the car?  That looks like a cad program or something.  Do you know if it is available on line for other years?  Jeff

[Stinson]

Hello Jeff,
Nope, just water color and/or color pencils. Use the blank to print out for it is correct for the model and year. As you may know, there was no two-tone paint for the 1937 year, but it was used again in 1938. It is only paint if you would like to be different and there is no damage to the car in my opinion.
Thank you,
Ty Stinson
CLC22330

[Jon Riley #13576]

Well you asked...


I believe that two tone paint schemes on Cadillacs after 1933 do not look very good.  Respectfully, I would suggest painting it a single color.  And, for that type of car, I would suggest going with a factory color.  Particularly, because it looks like you are keeping it stock.

Now, if you had a northstar in it, modern leather interior, etc.  I would say paint it two tone.

Not trying to be confrontational.  Just one person's opinion.

[Stinson]

Hello Jon,
Thank you. Should I select one of the 1937 solid grey colors available back then, which one would you select? Light or dark grey, and if so, what would that color name be? And, would it be Cadillac, LaSalle, Packard or what. As I understand it, any color available as of 1937 would have been okay for an additional $25.00.
Many thanks for your comments,
Ty Stinson
CLC22330

[Stinson]

Hello Jon,
I'm serious about one of the greys. Hope my response did not put you off. I do appreciate your comments. I have purchased samples of greys, Italian Cream, blues and still can't make up my mind about any one.  A new paint selection is a serious thing because of the expense. Again I'm leaning to a grey I believe will make the age and model of the car stand out for the era.
Ty Stinson

[Jon Riley #13576]

Hi Ty,

No, your response did not put me off.    I don't get on this form on a routine basis, unfortunately. 


To my mind, a gray would look very good.  Looking at the color chips, I think a darker gray, such as Menard Gray Metallic (Comb. No. 59), would look great.  See: http://www.lidreamboats.org/images/cadillac_36_color_chips7.jpg
Peruvian Gray (Comb. No. 24) looks good also. See: http://www.lidreamboats.org/images/cadillac_37_color_chips3.jpg   On the other hand, a lighter gray might look great.  I believe this 1936 V12 is painted Dusty Gray, a 1936 Cadillac color: http://www.conceptcarz.com/view/photo/484304,10284,0,0/photo.aspx   It looks great, too.   


I would also be partial to a dark blue.  I'm guessing that most of the 4-door sedans of that era, a large v-12 would have been painted a dark color.


My father has a 36-7519 - pretty much the same body, but with the lowly flathead - and it is painted Regent Maroon; however, it was originally black. Personally, I like the trim tag to match the color of the car and would repaint my dad's car black.  That is just me, though.   Here is a 1937-75 in red: http://www.conceptcarz.com/view/photo/282608,15426/1937-Cadillac-Series-75_photo.aspx


You are right, paint is serious, and expensive.  Take your time and make sure it is the color you want.  At the end of the day, go with what you want, and it will be great. 

[markl]

Ty,
I realize you are mainly engaged in a dialogue w/ Jon Riley and I whole heartedly agree w/ his nod to grays w/ one notable exception;  Peruvian Gray was the original color of the 37 LaSalle that I am restoring.  It had been painted at least 3 times over the years so I really didn't know what that color looked like until I removed the taillights from the rear fenders.  Turns out all the re-paints had been done w/o removing the taillights, so under the gasket was a perfectly preserved example of Peruvian gray that had never been exposed to sunlight or weather. 

In a word it was ugly, having a distinct greenish cast to it!  In fact, if you were just presented w/ a panel painted this color, I bet you say, "Olive Drab".  So unless you are restoring General Eisenhower's command vehicle, I don't think that particular gray would be a very good option.  Having said that, I realize that someone must have liked it, at least in 1937, but all the other grays that I have seen on Cadillacs and LaSalles are just much more pleasing.

So you might ask, if I decided against sticking w/ the original color, what did I choose?  Admiral Blue.  And even though it was not the factory wheel color that was paired w/ Admiral Blue in 1937, I have chosen Flare Red for the wheels.  That combination just cries out 30's to my eyes. You can see exactly that color combination on page 265 of the Van Gelderen/Larson book, LaSalle, Cadillac's Companion Car.  To each his own, but beware of Peruvian Gray.

Mark Lowery, CLC #25216

[Stinson]

Hello Mark and Jon,
     Many thanks for your comments. They are very, very helpful. I really enjoyed the web sites provided, and seeing the different paint colors.
     Menard Grey is the current color of my dash. I had ordered paint cards for Menard Gray and I like the color on the dash but I think the whole car in it would be very drab. Peruvian Grey is now off my list. I will look for Admiral Blue. I also have paint cards for Italian Cream, Packard Cent Blue (very dark like my original color). I also have Regatta Blue and 1937 Cadillac La Mothe Gray (very dark and I do like it) but need to see the lighter grays. This has been a long hard decision for five years now. I do know I don't want the original color of black/blue (Antoinette sp?).
Ty Stinson

[markl]

Ty,
If you are interested in checking out Admiral Blue, you might want to type that into the search function on the forum and read the lengthy exchange on that topic from 2009.  Long story short, Bill Sullivan came to the conclusion that Volvo's 2001 color "MarineBlau" was about the best match to this color in a modern paint.  That is what I used, and you'll see in that thread that I chose single stage enamel (PPG) and Bill use their Base Coat/Clear Coat version of same, at least on the exterior of his Coupe. 

Heck, if you get real lucky, you might find a Volvo driving around in that color.  But in any event, a good sample should be as close as your nearest PPG Paint supplier.

Mark Lowery, CLC #25216

[Paul Tesone]

Ty - take a look at my Menard Gray 37. Right front fender is not buffed out in these photos . Paul Tesone CLC #6876

[Paul Tesone]

Ty - more photos . Sorry , it's the LEFT front fender that's not buffed out . Paul Tesone CLC #6876

[Stinson]

Paul, That Manard Gray is perfect for your car - beautiful! That is the color my wife likes best. It was the very first color we considered - because our car looked so good in old light gray primer when we bought the car. La Mothe Gray is now out because it is two-stage, more expensive process, and I don't trust clear coat. I have asked my painter to try 1933 Cadillac Storm Cloud Blue. My painter is suggesting a color similar to The Self-Starter cover page of March 2011. It will be one of these three colors for time has run out, and sample painting starts next week. Manard Gray, Storm Cloud Blue, or something like Lynne Ornes' Indiana Gray.
Many thanks,
Ty Stinson
CLC22330

[Stinson]

Here are the next photos as taken yesterday. the doors and the trunk are in primer having been reskined and ready to put back on the car. The body is almost finished being sanded, and ready for primer this week. These photos have been arranged as a walk around view.

[Stinson]

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[Stinson]

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