1968 Eldorado Restoration

[Dan M]

I was looking at vinyl top replacement website and saw they had many grain choices.  Is 68 "Elk" grain?

And is "white" a pure white, bone, off white?

Dave yours looks white- did you have choices?

Thanks!!!

[Carl Glass]

One of these days, i'm going to tear off my vinyl top...hello slick top!

[Aaron Hudacky]

Dan,

The correct top grain is Tuxedo.  Elk is a common substitute and is correct on later years, but most people don't mind the variation, and vinyl tops are frequently redone in Elk Grain. If you can find a factory dealer showroom book, not a brochure, it will give you the best idea of the correct color.

[Glen]

You’re lucky.  In my area there are reflectors on the lane dividers, reflective signs of all types and lots of street lights.  The Guidematic almost never goes to high beam. 

I loved the one I put on my 61 Coupe DeVille in the day when there were still dark streets. 

[Carl Glass]

If the stars line up properly, I should have the Guidematic installed on my 68 Eldo this weekend.  I've got the sensor installed and I'm building the wiring harness.  I have the headlight switch parts and the relay and dimmer switch ready to go in.  Of course, here in so cal, there are a miriad of light sources, so i don't really expect to have wonderful functionality.  But i'm excited none the less.

Carl

[Dan M]

Looking at doing the timing chain- and according to the manual you have to remove the oil pan, and on the Eldo, the engine to do that.

Has anyone been in there?  Is the pan "over" the timing cover preventing removal?  Is it possible to just drop the oil pan a little?

Thanks in advance!

Dan

[Antoni Deighton]

I believe the problem is getting a good seal on the front of the oil pan if you try to do it in place. Not impossible, just difficult! I guess back when new, Cadillac figured that it would be better to err on the side of caution. I think it's possible to lift the engine a bit and get a good seal without removing the engine entirely, but perhaps someone who's actually done it and has more knowledge than me will chime in.

[Aaron Hudacky]

I replaced the timing chain in my 72 Sedan deVille about 20 years ago, and I remember the lower timing cover seal having little tabs that were designed to be clamped by the oil pan.  I would drop the pan so the tabs can be secured, but if you do that, the pan gasket will probably not seal again unless you've recently replaced it.  I was 17 when I replaced that gasket so maybe it seemed tougher than it really was due to my lack of experience, but I remember it now as being one of the less enjoyable experiences I've had working on old Cadillacs.  I replaced the engine several times in that car, and eventually removing the engine seemed less daunting than trying to do front seal/oil pan work with the engine in the car.  I imagine space is considerably tighter when trying to do the work to an Eldorado, but I haven't attempted that yet on my 70 Eldorado.

[Glen]

When I changed the timing chain on my 68 ELDO I did it in place because I did not have the tools to remove the engine.  I had to rip the chain cover off the engine because I could not drop the oil pan.  The pan bolts are behind the cross member and I could not loosen them. 

When I put the cover back on the seal and retainer were interlocked with the pan.  I was able to get it back together but the seal leaked big time.  I finally fixed it with lots of gasket sealer.  My advise it to remove the engine.  But then you will have mission creep and end up doing a lot more. 

[dirtycustom40]

You do not need to remove engine or lift engine.To make life a whole lot easier and i do mean easier take the car and have ac evacuated and get a credit on freon.Remove grille ac condensor and radiator.Remove accessories from front of motor.If you havent changed water pump now is the time to do it as well as thermostat and any hoses.After removing balancer you will clearly see 2 dowel pins low of center on timing cover.With a hammer and punch tap these inward till they are just inside of timing cover and stop.Gently work timing cover off and replace chain and gears.Cloyes makes a good timing chain that is around 70 bucks.After you remove timing cover get a pair of needle nose pliers and gently tap dowel pins all the way through hanging onto them with the pliers.A rag stuffed down in front of pan just in case isnt a bad idea in case you drop pin.Chances are you are going to ruin pins removing them so get a short piece of 1/4 inch round rod and make new ones.Round one end a bit so they will start easier when you put them back in.Do not put them back in till you have timing cover back in place and only snugged up a little,then tap pins in.Clean the hell out of all surfaces before putting anything back on.Use hi-tack sealant on timing cover upper gasket and on water pump gaskets as these like to slip.Dont bother using lower oil pan to timing cover seal from kit.The chances of getting this to stay in place are slim to none and it will leak.Use the stuff in the can called great stuff,it looks like a can of cheese wizz.Fill channel on the timing cover real good and the oil pan as well.Get corners good.Let it set for just a few minutes and put cover back on,bolt it up and put water pump on right away and let them sit overnight.Just walk away and let them sit so they can dry.Ive done this several times and have no leaks at all.Take your time and take the time to make sure everything is clean.Getting everything out of your way will make this a whole lot faster,easier and trouble free.If you get a cloyes chain read directions carefully,they are a bit confusing at first but all of a sudden you will get it.If you need anything dont hesitate to ask.Dont worry about marking distributor as you will be spinning motor over as you are removing balancer.Also do not hammer nalancer back on.Get a couple different length bolts 7/16 fine thread i think and use the bolts and spacers to push balancer back on.

[Rob Troxel]

Great write up on this!  Thanks for taking us thru step by step.  I beleive it take some skill and lots of patience to get it right.  I just hate the idea of pulling the engine since as Glen says, job creep means youend up  doing the whole engine at that point!

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

If you see that any of the nylon covering the Cam Gear have become missing when you pull the timing cover off, you had better consider removing the sump to clean out the Oil Pump Pickup and oil pan itself of all the pieces, as oil flow to the oil pump will be restricted.

The pictures show the condition of my gear, and the crap that was wholly contained inside the pickup.

Yes, the engine did run, and the oil pressure was still good, but I am really glad that I pulled the engine.

Following the Workshop Manual, it is easy to remove and replace the engine, and you don't have to re-gas the AC either.   It is possible to have the complete job done in one full day, stopping for lunch and tea, but I wouldn't recommend it, as when the engine is out, it gives you the opportunity to clean it, and the engine bay.

It is easier to leave the trans in place than to try and pull the unit out, then separate them once out of the car.

Bruce.

[dirtycustom40]

I dont mean to hi jack this thread and i apologize but i forgot to include this in timing chain replacement.When you remove lower pulleys balancer will come off with them.What you will be removing with a puller is just the hub balancer bolts to.This comes off before timing cover.All you need for a puller is a straight 2 bolt puller.Like an old fashioned steering wheel puller.The 2 bolts you put in hub should be threadred through the backside of hub at least 3/16 of an inch and put an oversized thick washer between the center bolt of puller and crank.As you are tightening the center bolt to remove hub squirt wd40 or something around crank to help hub slide and put some kind of bar between bolt and hub to hold crank in place.Your going to need a long 1/2 inch drive breaker bar or ratchet to turn center bolt on puller.It probably wont even look like its moving but it is.The balancer only bolts back on this hub in one position so dont worry about putting it back on wrong.After hub and timing cover are removed you will see a bell shaped tin cup on the crank.Wiggle it loose and pull it off.Next line up your timing marks on gears and pull your distributor cap and make sure rotor is pointing at number one plug wire on the cap.When timing marks on gears and rotor line up then you can pull distributor.The little cup on cam that bolts on is for the fuel pump.Remove it and it also only goes back on one way.Install your new chain and gears making sure you have you marks lined up exact.Simply knock out the old oil seal on timimg cover,before you install the new one wipe some silicone around the outside before GENTLY tapping it into place.Tap on the outside edges.Wipe oil or white grease around the inside of the seal where crankshaft rides.The hub fits over a key way and will not appear to be moving as you are putting it back on but it is.I know it sounds like alot removing ac condensor etc but it makes this job a whole lot easier to do.This way you can see everything you are doing and wont be second guessing yourself.

[gregm]

What a beautiful car. Congratulations!

+1. I am absolutely chartreuse with envy...such a stately color combination. I am in the market for a 1968 Eldo and may just have to wait until you are ready to sell. 

[gregm]

   It is also odd that it is a three color combination.   The roof is Sandalwood yet the interior is the darker Saddle color.   Which makes me think it was an ordered car.

I noticed that...I don't know about odd, as the colors compliment themselves very well...really a rich combination.

[Dan M]

Thought I would post a pic of my color combo- black with white top and white leather interior

I also thought I would tell everyone about Cadillac Tim's A/C troubleshooting manuals.  I just got my 68 version and he really simplifies the factory manual checks.  Basically walks you through trouble shooting each system, and even how to check and calibrate the temp dial, the transducer, repair the rotary valves.  Basically provides a step by step- if this then that approach.  For example he make one note about if vacuum is present at the parking brake release then it won't hold "on", which I hadn't thought through.  I thought the ratchet was bad- but by pulling off the vac line it works fine- except for the auto release- so now I know to look for a kink or another reason the vac doesn't vent off.  My main issue with the AC now is there is no vac to the hot water valve, so I am down to the rotary valve in the dash control- and he gives a step by step- put vac here, measure it here, move the lever and this should happen.  Great stuff.

[Dan M]

Sure thing- feel free.

I will also add- I noticed I was missing the ported vac switch for the distributor, got one, and in the process of installing, decided to check the action of the vac advance with my pump- nothing!  So, I felt around and could feel a leak through the vent hole.  Out came the disty.  Boy, was I embarassed with myself- the centrifugal advance was gummed up too.  I pulled the disty apart, cleaned and lubed it up and have a vac advance on order.  I believe she will run a lot better with the advance functioning properly.  Some one had installed a Pertronix electronic ignition eliminating the points in the past.

Out of curiosity I cut open the vac advance and there was a 1/2" tear in the diaphgram.  I've had the car 12 years and have not checked it this closely in all that time- just drove it time to time.
Dan

[Rob Troxel]

Dan,

What does the ported vac switch look like on the 68 Eldorado?  Great comments in the distributor vac advance.  I'll check mine!

[gregm]

How come not all 1968 colors are represented on that chart?

[Dan M]

I didn't realize white would have been so popular.  5.5% of 25,000 for black is around 1200 total.  Hmm.  good.

Funny about the options- I don't have rear window defogger or heated seats, or right hand mirror, but pretty well optioned otherwise.

The ported vac switch has a brass base and threads with a 13/16 hex.  On that is a molded plastic tree with 3 barbed fittings for the vac hose.  One from carb va, manifold vac, and one to disty vac advance.  The thing is in the head in the water.  When cold the disty vac comes from the carb, when temp goes above 220, it switches to the manifold vac which puts more advance into the disty.  This is to help cool it down.  I got mine from Rock Auto.  Its not a Delco part but performs the same thing.