1955 Cadillac transmission

[PHIL WHYTE CLC 14192]

Thanks for that info Charlie, but isn't that a special tool you have to use with the gauge on it?
If I was you I would re-adjust the bands, making sure that you have done it dead right. If that doesn't work then check the valve block. As I said before, and it was an old, very experienced transmission guy who told me, it is possible to have that long valve in the wrong position when re-assembling the valve block. This will give the symptoms that you have - ie, the manual control will be wrong and then you wont be able to select all the drive ranges - you could block out reverse, you may only get low [essentially2 speed], or drive 2 only [3 speed]. It is a simple error to make, but can cause a real headache. I always try to look at the simplest problem first.
Phil

[CABENDER]

Phil,
     I took the valve body off again on Saturday and found my error. When I replaced the shift selector I did not get the tab on the back of it in the end groove of the selector spool. The thing was just free wheeling in there.  You hit that one dead on. Ran out of time and was not able to complete the band adjustment, but at least things are moving forward, literally.

Charlie Bender

[PHIL WHYTE CLC 14192]

Its great that you found that problem, it usually is a simple thing like that.
Phil

[CABENDER]

Spent some time adjusting the bands today.  Front one went as expected, rear band, however, is another story. When the engage point is achieved as described in the various books that I have, it is to be put in "N' and tightened 2 turns. When I did that it would lock up when put  in reverse. Then (in trial and error mode) I alternately tightened and loosened the band. If I loosened it so it would go backwards it would not go forward, and if tight enough to go forward it would lock up in reverse. It seems to me that the band was not engaging unless I tightend it to the engagement point manually. This, of course, left it constantly engaged and it must disengage for reverse to work.     I was not sure if I had the throttle control valve linkage in the proper position the last time I attempted adjusting the bands, but today I made sure the TV linkage all the way back to its stop as it should, be when I did this.
      It looks as though I'm going to have to drop the tranny unless  some other inspiration or enlightenment presents itself.

Charlie Bender

[PHIL WHYTE CLC 14192]

Charlie,
I haven't got my manual in front of me at the moment, but , if memory serves me right the Kent- Moore tool for adjusting the rear band is the one that is just cut out of a flat piece of steel. If this is the case I can scan the tool with a steel rule beside it [for the dimensions] and post it here - you can then make your own one. It doesn't have to be steel, ridgid plastic or thin plywood would work. Then all you have to do is drop the oil pan and do it without the engine running.
Phil

[CABENDER]

Phil,
   That sounds like a plan. I'll try just about anything that sounds reasonable before I go through the effort of dropping the tranny.

Charlie Bender

[PHIL WHYTE CLC 14192]

Hi Charlie,
I will try to do that tomorrow.
Phil

[PHIL WHYTE CLC 14192]

Hi Charlie, I've attached a photo of the rear band adjuster tool with a steel rule. I hope this works. If you need any more info on it I'll see what I can do.
Phil

[CABENDER]

Phil,
     Thanks for the info. Got a bit of a problem with the resolution of the picture when I blow it up. I feel safe in assuming the vertical end by the 5 1/2 inch mark is square to the horizontal leg. It looks to me like the setting is between the two verticals.
What I'm not sure is the exact dimensionson of the other end and how critical the shapes are. Is the crescent shape on the left (just below the ruler) a critical point? Are the holes on the bottom used in the adjusting process?     Any clarification would be helpful and appreciated.

Charlie Bender

[CABENDER]

   Greetings all,
An update:
            I drained and removed the transmission pan yesterday. I must admit I had mixed emotions when I found the bottom of the pan just about whistle clean. Some broken pieces or bits of metal grindings would have indicated a problem and a direction to go in, but no. By now I was convinced that the problem had to do with the rear band. There was not enough play between engaged and disengaged. If I tightend the band so it would move forward it would bind up in reverse. If I loosened it enough for it to go in reverse it would not go forward. One of the manuals that I have, referenced an air test for trouble shooting by blowing air into the various holes that were exposed when the control valve assembly is removed from the side of the case. Not having exactly the right equipment I got inconclusive results from the first few holes in the sequence. A breakthrough came when I put air pressure to the passage that activated the release for the rear servo. Air blew out just about everywhere on the servo where there was a hole. In another manual I found that the rear servo could be removed with the transmission in the car. Two bolts have to be removed and an oil line taken off. I dismantled the server and EUREKA a broken piston ring. (At this point I wasn't 100% sure that this was the problem since taking the servo apart required a bit of force and I couldn't be sure that I did not break the ring in that process). I have a transmission carcass from which I then removed the rear servo and installed it in my car. During the process of adjusting the bands (via the external method) it became evident that I was home free. I made a  couple of test loops around the yard and then headed up the road.        It was like I had a CVT in the car. Every shift is smooth as silk, it downshifts in response to a full throttle or up hills, and I don't even notice the somewhat hard 2-1 downshift that used to be there upon coming to a stop. 

I can't help wondering: If I had removed the tranny and had it rebuilt, new bands, steels, etc., would I have put it back in and and found no improvement? Would a transmission mechanic check the internal components of a servo? The rear servo is at least partially engaged by a large spring. The broken ring was on the piston that compresses that spring to release the band, hence the band was always engaged unless I manually released it via the external adjuster.

Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, to everyone who chimed in to give me advice and encouragement.

Charlie Bender

PS Attached (I think) is a picture of my car. That's me driving with a smile about 1/2 as big as the smile I had when that transmission worked right.
Attached

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Congratulations Charlie,

All transmission builders would have done the air-pressure testing, and would have found the problem, but you would have been charged for a complete transmission rebuild.

They wouldn't have tested anything prior to disassembling, just pulled it to pieces.

Having done what you did, you are now a Transmission Expert.   Well, almost.

Bruce.

[PHIL WHYTE CLC 14192]

Hi Charlie, congratulations and I'm sorry I didn't get back to you about your questions on the Kent Moore tool - I've been away working for the past 5 days. The rebuild kit that I got from Fatsco had all the new piston rings as well as gaskets and seals. When I rebuilt it with a transmission man that had worked on these from new we air tested all the circuits to make sure everything was ok prior to putting the valve block back on. Feels good getting a smooth transmission after all that doesn't it?!!
Phil

[Dan LeBlanc]

Hats off to you, sir for a successful repair.  There are two things that scare me on a car - automatic transmissions and carburetors.  I've not attmpted a carburetor rebuild and all I've done is a valve body and filter swap on a Jetaway Hydra-Matic.  Any more than that, and I'm done for.

Kudos once again.

[CABENDER]

   Thanks guys,  this is the first time that I've ever seen the innards of an automatic transmission. All I could think of the whole time was the AAMCO (I think) commercial with the less than competent appearing guy with the water hose saying "Gee, I always wanted to fix a transmission Boss".

  I'm still on a high.

Charlie Bender

[CADICOILEMAN]

 bonjour vous avez un problème de desserrage de vos bandes sur vos tamboures faite un contrôle de pression et un contrôle de la vanne de passage du groupe hydraulique et un réglage de la commande d'accélérateur

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Or in English:

hello you have a problem releasing your tapes on your drum is a pressure control and a control valve and the passage of hydraulic adjustment of the throttle.

Bruce.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Hi Bruce
Did you let translate with a machine? Do you understand what was translated? If you need a correct translation, let me know!

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Yes, translated with the internet, but as we all know, the internet is "perfect"

My school French is VERY poor.

Bruce.