1959 Cadillac Brakes Issue

[tzurick]

I got some info back from Cardone on the difference between the 50-1117 combo and the 50-1121 combo.  Neither has any RCV installed as discussed earlier and both are interchangeable if you're going to do it as a set.

From Cardone -> The difference is based on the application year. The 50-1117 is for years 1967-68 and the 50-1121 is for 1968-70 as a mid-year change by OE happened.

The master cylinders are the same with the exception of the mounting hole difference that it mounts to the booster.

[Bill Caddyshack]

Good to know the difference, Tim. Cadillac went to the dual MC in 1962. I wonder if there is a Cardone MC/Booster for that year?

[Coupe Deville]

Hello everyone. I got the RCV in the mail the other day. I mounted them inline with the brake lines. My problem now is I have to plug the the open hole on the junction block. Believe it or not I haven't found a 1/4 inch brake line plug anywhere. Hardware stores, and auto parts stores. Any ideas? And for the people that did the conversion what did you use?

Thanks
-Gavin

[Gabe Davis]

Believe it or not I haven't found a 1/4 inch brake line plug anywhere.

I found all of the fittings that I needed for the conversion at NAPA, including the plug. I was fortunate to be helped by a store manager who lead me to the back and we dug through the Weatherhead fitting cabinet together pulling and test fitting the parts. Kinda nice to have someone who cared.

[Jeff Wilk]

Same here......but find a store with someone who cares.....they do have all the fittings if a knowledgeable person works there and knows "whats what" as opposed to simply a parts counter guy looking for a part number online.   

[Bill Caddyshack]

I have a good relationship with an Advance Auto Parts store, here in Atlanta. They found a plug. I find each store is different, has a different "personality." Some are helpful and will go the extra mile, some are crap, ie, act like you don't exist.

But take the part you need matched with you. I took the MC/Booster to the store and they hunted until they found the right fittings. Same with the junction block.

They all seem to want/need to go through the "OK, what year? What brand? What sub-model?" But they will match up parts, if you develop the right relationship with the right person. I show them pictures of the car on my phone and found a guy who went, "Oh wow! Great car, let me see what I can find."

[Big Fins]

I got all of my adapters, lines, plugs from NAPA when I did the same conversion. NAPA stores are generally real parts store with knowledgeable people. Unlike the stores that sell only oil filters and floor mats.

If you get a store in a heavy industrialized area, there is a good chance you'll always find what you need the first time out.

[Coupe Deville]

Ok. Thank you for the advice for the parts. I have a question about the new booster. My 59 still has the original vaccum tank behind the inner wheel well. Do I hook up the new booster straight to the vaccum hose on the engine or do I put a "T" fitting on the hose and incoparate the original vaccum tank?

Thanks

-Gavin

[Big Fins]

I used the factory set up to include the tank. It makes the brakes good for at least 2 applications before it runs out. I would need to dig up a pic to be sure, but I'm sure that I incorporated the one way valve in it too.

I'd have to move two vehicles to look and be sure, plus back the Cadillac out enough to get up front to look. But I know that I T'ed into the line to use the vacuum can.

This is the best I can do right now. I have pics in 3 different computers. Look right above the M/C and you can see the brass T set up in there.

[Gabe Davis]

Do I hook up the new booster straight to the vaccum hose on the engine or do I put a "T" fitting on the hose and incoparate the original vaccum tank?

I left the tank where it was in the car but did not connect it. I ran the the vacuum line from the carb right to the booster. I read somewhere that these boosters have a bit of reservoir built into them so the tank is not absolutely necessary. The connection at the booster is a check valve so the original check valve in the line before the T is not needed unless you run the tank and the booster all together with a T fitting.

[Jeff Wilk]

We used the original booster (had it rebuilt by Midwest Power Products) and added a new dual MC ( Raybestos MC36236) and kept the original vac tank inside the fender hooked up as original.  Only change was the new line to the factory original junction block, the extension line from the long line to the rear so it came up to the new MC, and a plug in the now unused port on the junction block.  Bench bled the unit and installed.  Other than the project then turning into a complete front end restoration so that everything else looked as new as the Brake System, it was simple   

Jeff & Noah

[Coupe Deville]

Hello everyone. Regarding putting in my summit racing new booster and master the brake pedal seems a lot higher than before. I haven't actual tried the system yet, I still need to hook up the lines. My question is the pushrod on the back of the unit that goes to the brake pedal, you can rotate I left and right. Is there a adjustment for the pedal bight or is it just for the master clynder side of the pushrod? Any help would be apriciated. Or maybe the pedal was this high and I just don't remember. I don't think that's the case though.

Thanks

-Gavin

[Bill Caddyshack]

Don't think there are any adjustments for brake pedal height. You can adjust the brake light switch, but not the pedal, nor the mc pushrod. Some people say you need to space the brake pedal away from the firewall by putting washers between the brake pedal assembly. This would give a lower pedal, but I didn't need them on my '59 when I installed the Cardone unit. Maybe you should wait and see what it is like when you have installed the lines???

[Coupe Deville]

Ya. I was thinking that or the vaccum might play a role in lowering the pedal. I am hooking up the lines tomrrow.

Thanks

-Gavin

[tzurick]

Justed picked up a 50-1117 off E-Bay Buy it Now for $124 shipped from summit racing no less.  As soon as it shows up I'll cancel the one on back order from them that shows shipping in mid November for the 50-1121.  Appears the 50-1117 is in stock again if anyone wants to do the upgrade.

[Coupe Deville]

Hello everyone.
Bled the brakes and no pedal. I have not installed the RCV's yet. Could this be the problem? I don't think it's likely because bill Caddyshack said he had a pedal and be didn't   install RCV's yet.

[Bill Caddyshack]

Hello everyone.
Bled the brakes and no pedal. I have not installed the RCV's yet. Could this be the problem? I don't think it's likely because bill Caddyshack said he had a pedal and be didn't   install RCV's yet.

RCVs should not matter as to having a pedal. Are your brake shoes adjusted properly? Did you get all he air out? Did you begin bleeding with the wheel farthest from the MC? Did you shim the brake pedal?

[Coupe Deville]

My brake shoes are adjusted properly. I did shim the pedal, does that effect the brake action? I am having a freind come over to help me bleed the brakes today.

Thanks

-Gavin

[Bill Caddyshack]

My brake shoes are adjusted properly. I did shim the pedal, does that effect the brake action? I am having a freind come over to help me bleed the brakes today.

Thanks

-Gavin

I shimmed mine and the pedal was too low. I would suggest bleeding the brakes first and see if you still have a problem. Did you bench bleed the MC before installing?

I un-shimmed my pedal assembly and it is lots better. Several other people did the same (un-shimmed) and their brakes work fine. I don't understand why the original article said it was very important to shim.

[Coupe Deville]

Thanks for the response. Yes I did bench bleed the mc prior to installation. I didn't shim the brake pedal before but the brake pedal was to high in my opinion.